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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ย. 2024
- Grab one here: hitechdiamond....
Join me as I take the new Hi-Tech Slant 8 flat lap for a spin in my opal cutting workshop! In this video, I'll demonstrate how to set up and break in this innovative machine. Starting with a piece of Potch, I’ll walk you through the process of cutting and shaping a cabochon, using the full face of the laps to ensure optimal performance. Watch closely as I troubleshoot common issues, provide tips for effective cutting and polishing, and share my first impressions on the Hi-Tech Slant 8's capabilities. Don’t miss the link to our unboxing video for a complete overview of what's included and how to set up the machine. Whether you're a seasoned opal cutter or new to the craft, this video is packed with valuable insights to enhance your lapidary skills. Use my affiliate code '53frogs' for a 10% discount on accessories at Hi-Tech.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Best vibes. I love the slant cabber. Thank you for all your videos.
Glad you like them!
Great video tutorial 😊
Thank you! 😊
Love your video's! We have progressed onto an 8 inch cabking machine a couple of years ago, but we did have the horizontal version of this machine before that. And strangely enough, I have bought the same slanted version that you are working on now again to augment my cabking for two reasons, to help with speeding up doing the flat backs of my cabs (I am still learning, but am cutting anything and everything, not just opal). The flat diamond lap that you put on the left hand side of the cabking just takes forever. It works, but not optimally.
But also, the cabking only has that wee little 5/6 inch polishing pad on the right hand side, and it is also not optimal. But having had a leather pad there and using Linde-A there instead of the felt and diamond or Cerium, and seeing how amazing that cuts 90% of all different types of rocks, I am making up a leather pad to use on the slanted cabber, the advantage is that you can go from I think 800 rpm to 3500 rpm odd, so - if you wanted to follow Guru Sinkanka's advice to use Linde-A (premium Aliminium Oxide 100K grit equivalent) at high speed but moving very quickly for some of the undercutting type rocks, this should make it possible!
Two things for the slanted cabber, I see you have figured out that the jump from the hard wheel to 325 is too big, and have invested in the in-between 225 (if I am remembering right) one. That is very necessary! But there is also another thing, if you are building up your own you should add in the foam backing that they sell to put in-between the soft diamond pads and the acrylic pad, it helps immensely in adding some "give" which helps sort out the domes by taking out facets much better. And one can do that with all the soft pads.
Thanks for the tip. I'll get a set of the sponges and give them a go to see how it changes the cutting/polishing. One of the reasons I think this is such a great starter machine is that even if you eventually upgrade there are a lot of things that it is just easier to do on a flat lap. Doublets/mosiacs/inlay work etc, all easier on a flat lap.
Wow those divets were pretty deep in that polish. I’d have to agree with you and definitely buy the in between pads. It’s really surprising HI TECH didn’t include them to begin with, but it all comes down to money. They’ve got to know a guy will end up needing one. And the NOVA discs are a must have as well.
All great info to have thank you
To be fair to hi-tech, this machine is a general lapidary piece of kit and the way they sell it would be perfectly find for all these guys picking up river pebbles and having a go. It is just because I am cutting gemstones with it that I need to be a bit more discerning about the exact progression and final finish.
Great video. Excellent tips on angling. As a beginner, I made mistakes in that regard.
One question: How are you removing the stone off the glued dop stick? I used superglue when dopping Ethiopian opal, and when trying to remove the stone, I chipped the surface of the cab that was glued to the stick.
Looks like youtube deleted my 1st post due to forgetting to put a space after a period smh...
If you go to Opal Auctions and search "Optical Dopping Kit -LAPIDARY " there's a video showing the UV kit. At about 1min 5sec he removes a stone. It seems gummy, not a hard stick like super glue, but there is a slight pop. Might use a light to make sure there's no cracks where you attach the stone to the dop stick. Opal is 5.5-6.5 on the Mohs scale and shouldn't crack normally, but Ethiopian tends to have a bunch of cracks.
Put them into the fridge ❤
This one was stuck on just enough to keep it there. I easily just pulled it off with my fingers when I was done and then used a safety knife to rub the glue off. A safety knife is also handy to get the opal off if it is stuck on there really well. If optical glue pulls chips out of your opal, then the opal isn't prepared well enough to dop.
This is the way.
This only works when doping with wax. With the UV glue you can just pull the opal off or slice a safety razor between the opal and the dop.
This is awesome!
Did you end up receiving/trying out the other pads you had to order?
I just got them and have a day in the schedule reserved to have a play with the different options. Stay tuned.
I believe most arbor style gem cutters rotate at 1800-2000rpm, Rotary tools (dremmel) 5000-25000rpm on variable speed models or around 9-10k rpm on fixed speed.
Sounds a bout right. I know the pneumatic ones are on the upper side of that range.
Is it awkward to operate after being used to an arbor ?
There is a bit of a period where you need to figure out the angles but it's not as hard as writing with the other hand.
@nnOpals if it was that hard I would be lost.
@@FatKidBrody More like putting the fork in the other hand. :)