After watching TH-cam for about a year I hadn't heard of sodium percarbonate. The last 4 months or so that I've been on Reddit and Facebook groups I started to hear about it. Glad to finally see it in use. Thank for the video.
Hi, I have been watching some companies now using sodium percarbonate for roof washing and getting good results with it. Seem safer than (SH) sodium hypoclorite
Great Video, one thing I like to do on older wood like that, where you are having issues with the green not coming off, I have a brush head i use just for wood, medium bristles on it, not to soft but not to hard, and I will brush my soap into the wood a bit, agitate it, I go with the wood grain, just like you would do when rinsing with pressure washer, brush it in real good, then let sit, dwell time is key, maybe a second application and brush down, then rinse and put down the OX
Thank you! You helped m realize a BIG mistake I made just yesterday, getting poor results. I have been diluting my Oxalic WAAAY too much. Don't mind calling myself out on this one: I was using a small pressure washer hooked up to a "foam canon" type sprayer and (this is the DUMB part) didn't realize that was diluting the heck out of already diluted solution -- probably getting 1/10th or even less of the right solvent power. Your video hit me like a brick - Duh! I guess we all can't be smart all the time. Thanks again, Sir!
Great job! I have only done two deck restoration’s in 3yrs. Most don’t want to pay for the effort involved. Put some burnt motor oil on that wood as a stain and it will have a oak barrel look!
Excellent, informative video Jon! Good work with the production. Was painless, got the good shots, and it flowed good. I just bought some sodium metasilicate and oxilic acid to do the same stuff with my fence. Sodium metasilicate is supposed to be stronger than precarbonate, although the guy I bought it from says his company uses precarbonate when they do fences. Idk. Maybe I'll try to make a video and put it together to show how it comes out with metasilicate.
After youve applied your percarbonate use a soft brush to agitate the chemical into the wood then go over with a stiff brish to really loosen that black of then rinse. I found that helped far more over just applying then rinsing alone
Thanks. Yes he does. I have messaged him before. Real helpful guy. I think wood isn’t that scary as long as you use the right product. Bleach wasn’t getting it for me so I wanted another alternative.
Percarbonate is good for newer wood, up to 1 year or so. Anything older and dark like on your video needs something stronger to lift all the dirt up. For example Hydroxide and metasilicate
I was really pleased how this ramp came out. And it is about 13 years old. I did 2 decks this week in my latest video and these decks were horrible. 18 years old,under trees,never been treated. I was really impressed how they came out. Thanks for the info. I have some hydroxide I use in another video too. Plan to try Cleansol BC too.
@@jonboysprowash7845 yes it turned out very nice. However if you do a bigger job let’s say 700 sqft or more you don’t want to do it twice. You need stronger chem to clean it the first time
Jonboy how’s it going I have a 2000 sqft wooden shop I’m cleaning and I plan on using the f10/f8 combo. It’s a one story shop/building. Any thoughts / suggestions. Also due to the size I wanted to try out downstreaming the mixes. I know I’ll have to mix stronger but what are your thoughts on that?
Its going great. I ran mine through a pump sprayer and my diaphragm pump. I dont know how downstreaming would be. From my experience however much you think you may need add some to that. Both products I have used with great results.
Looks good! I get the same results with bleach. I pre wet the wood then with my soft wash I apply 2 percent sometimes 3 percent SH depends how dirty the wood is then let it dwell about 15 min then high pressure rinse with a white tip. I keep the white tip about 8-10 inches away. Turns out great. Been doing this way along time. But hey what ever works and gets good results is the key as you know.
A lot of people say not to use SH on wood, but I don’t see the issue if you use a moderate concentration and rebalance the PH level with oxalic acid. Percarbonate throws off the PH as well, while slightly less intense, but you still need to hit it with oxalic acid to balance out the PH anyways. As long as you follow up either method with oxalic acid, I think both options will work.
@@GuardianPressureWashing if you want to spend the extra money on oxalic acid that’s fine it’s not that expensive anyways and it works for you which is great. I been doing this PW business since 1996. Never used oxalic acid except for rust stains on many different types of house siding. Which I applied with with a two gallon pump up sprayer. I have easily done over 500 wood decks and have used the method I described above. They look new when I am done. No furring or splintering of the wood. Never had a call back. Oxalic acid is not a must do to at all. If you feel you need to use it then have at it but it’s not needed if you know how to work with SH.
For those asking SH and some surfactant is fine for a quick clean of "protected" wood. Not hammered or failed stained wood. SH on failed unprotected wood affects the natural tannin (color/tone) of the wood. It bleaches it. It cleans but does not truely restore it. Its actually WAY faster and more efficient to wet the wood, then using a proper soft wash step 1 of sodium metasilicate apply/dwell/rinse off & step 2 oxalic acid apply/dwell/rinse off which leaves the wood with a much more DEEP natural color. Go watch videos by "The Wizard of Wood". Think of it like pressure washing a deck with a wand or surface cleaner...you CAN do it but its not recommended in the industry for PRO results.
@altillman1448 Yeah bleach works instantly on wood for sure. When it comes to wood I have found everybody has their own ways of cleaning it. Everett does have a lot of great videos and advice.
This time I did have the luxury of having hot water. What I found to work great when you don’t is getting a paddle for paint mixing and put it on a drill. That works really good
Here I am with bleach and sandpaper breaking my back for a mediocre result. Should I switch halfway thru the deck? Or use this next year? I think the sanding is necessary since the wood seems to have ridges with the grain.
It only took a few hours, small deck. So I guess it's faster to finish this way than to change the process. I'll step up my game next time around. Thanks for the suggestion! @@jonboysprowash7845
@@bolittle_fn9068 Thanks. Everywhere and everybody’s says warm water to mix ,but I didn’t have any issue with cool water. If you had a paint paddle stirrer and drill it would be even easier.
@@jonboysprowash7845 oxalic acid after diluted after. Definitely agitate with a brush. I just tried on some old benches. No pressure washer just a hose.
I like using SH because I always have in on the truck. I keep getting some green build up the SH won’t get rid of and was looking for a different option.
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Excellent job !!!
Thank you. Thank you for watching. 👍
Outstanding Demo!!
Thanks. Thanks for watching 👍
After watching TH-cam for about a year I hadn't heard of sodium percarbonate. The last 4 months or so that I've been on Reddit and Facebook groups I started to hear about it. Glad to finally see it in use. Thank for the video.
You’re welcome. Hope it helps. Thanks for watching 👍
Hi,
I have been watching some companies now using sodium percarbonate for roof washing and getting good results with it. Seem safer than (SH) sodium hypoclorite
@@michaelc7283 yeah it's an alternative that takes more time to work so you should be charging more for it's usage.
@michaelc7283 I have never tried that.
Great video mate!
Thanks for watching 👍
Awesome video
Thanks for watching 👍
great video thanks
Thanks. Thanks for watching. 👍
Great Video, one thing I like to do on older wood like that, where you are having issues with the green not coming off, I have a brush head i use just for wood, medium bristles on it, not to soft but not to hard, and I will brush my soap into the wood a bit, agitate it, I go with the wood grain, just like you would do when rinsing with pressure washer, brush it in real good, then let sit, dwell time is key, maybe a second application and brush down, then rinse and put down the OX
Thanks for the info. I am going to get a medium bristle brush for that reason. I think it will help. Thanks again.
Thank you! You helped m realize a BIG mistake I made just yesterday, getting poor results. I have been diluting my Oxalic WAAAY too much.
Don't mind calling myself out on this one: I was using a small pressure washer hooked up to a "foam canon" type sprayer and (this is the DUMB part) didn't realize that was diluting the heck out of already diluted solution -- probably getting 1/10th or even less of the right solvent power. Your video hit me like a brick - Duh! I guess we all can't be smart all the time. Thanks again, Sir!
Hey man live and learn. I’m glad it helped. 👍
Great job! I have only done two deck restoration’s in 3yrs. Most don’t want to pay for the effort involved. Put some burnt motor oil on that wood as a stain and it will have a oak barrel look!
Thanks. Wood does take a lot if you want to get it right. Percarbonate has been good to work with too.
Excellent, informative video Jon! Good work with the production. Was painless, got the good shots, and it flowed good. I just bought some sodium metasilicate and oxilic acid to do the same stuff with my fence. Sodium metasilicate is supposed to be stronger than precarbonate, although the guy I bought it from says his company uses precarbonate when they do fences. Idk. Maybe I'll try to make a video and put it together to show how it comes out with metasilicate.
Thanks. That would be great. Let me know if you do. I would like to see the results. 👍
After youve applied your percarbonate use a soft brush to agitate the chemical into the wood then go over with a stiff brish to really loosen that black of then rinse. I found that helped far more over just applying then rinsing alone
Thanks. I have thought about a brush before. Seems like it would work the best loosening things up. 👍
will that make you get away with just 1 application?
@@bogdanarsene9602 If you want to scrub it I think it would. I haven’t put it to the test,but I think it would help out.
Turned out nice. I don’t do a lot of wood. It scares me 😂 I do watch a lot of Everett Abrams “The Wizard of Wood” guy knows his stuff
Thanks. Yes he does. I have messaged him before. Real helpful guy. I think wood isn’t that scary as long as you use the right product. Bleach wasn’t getting it for me so I wanted another alternative.
His stains are superior to ALL others
With his knowledge I bet they are.
What looks good good job where do you buy them stuff you use for the wood to clean it and everything
I get it from pressuretek.com
thank you, what I been looking for. I could not remember my old deck cleaner name /type. 30 sec outdoor cleaner is very expense.
I’m glad it helped. 👍
30 Second Cleaner is crazy expensive and doesn’t work as well as percarbonate. I’ve tested them side by side and it wasn’t even close.
@@GuardianPressureWashing I agree
Percarbonate is good for newer wood, up to 1 year or so. Anything older and dark like on your video needs something stronger to lift all the dirt up. For example Hydroxide and metasilicate
I was really pleased how this ramp came out. And it is about 13 years old. I did 2 decks this week in my latest video and these decks were horrible. 18 years old,under trees,never been treated. I was really impressed how they came out. Thanks for the info. I have some hydroxide I use in another video too. Plan to try Cleansol BC too.
@@jonboysprowash7845 yes it turned out very nice. However if you do a bigger job let’s say 700 sqft or more you don’t want to do it twice. You need stronger chem to clean it the first time
@@andrewhal9720 I could see that. I don’t like having to apply anything twice. I don’t like having to rinse it twice either.
Jonboy how’s it going I have a 2000 sqft wooden shop I’m cleaning and I plan on using the f10/f8 combo. It’s a one story shop/building. Any thoughts / suggestions. Also due to the size I wanted to try out downstreaming the mixes. I know I’ll have to mix stronger but what are your thoughts on that?
Its going great. I ran mine through a pump sprayer and my diaphragm pump. I dont know how downstreaming would be. From my experience however much you think you may need add some to that. Both products I have used with great results.
This is awesome
Thanks I appreciate it. Thanks for watching 👍
Nice video sir. Do you know if this process will strip old colored stain?
Thanks. I don’t think this would,but the f-10 should.
Looks good! I get the same results with bleach. I pre wet the wood then with my soft wash I apply 2 percent sometimes 3 percent SH depends how dirty the wood is then let it dwell about 15 min then high pressure rinse with a white tip. I keep the white tip about 8-10 inches away.
Turns out great.
Been doing this way along time.
But hey what ever works and gets good results is the key as you know.
Thanks. This is true. I wanted to try something different than bleach.
A lot of people say not to use SH on wood, but I don’t see the issue if you use a moderate concentration and rebalance the PH level with oxalic acid. Percarbonate throws off the PH as well, while slightly less intense, but you still need to hit it with oxalic acid to balance out the PH anyways. As long as you follow up either method with oxalic acid, I think both options will work.
@@GuardianPressureWashing if you want to spend the extra money
on oxalic acid that’s fine it’s not that expensive anyways and it works for you which is great.
I been doing this PW business since 1996. Never used oxalic acid except for rust stains on many different types of house siding. Which I applied with with a two gallon pump up sprayer.
I have easily done over 500 wood decks and have used the method I described above. They look new when I am done. No furring or splintering of the wood. Never had a call back. Oxalic acid is not a must do to at all. If you feel you need to use it then have at it but it’s not needed if you know how to work with SH.
For those asking SH and some surfactant is fine for a quick clean of "protected" wood. Not hammered or failed stained wood. SH on failed unprotected wood affects the natural tannin (color/tone) of the wood. It bleaches it. It cleans but does not truely restore it. Its actually WAY faster and more efficient to wet the wood, then using a proper soft wash step 1 of sodium metasilicate apply/dwell/rinse off & step 2 oxalic acid apply/dwell/rinse off which leaves the wood with a much more DEEP natural color. Go watch videos by "The Wizard of Wood". Think of it like pressure washing a deck with a wand or surface cleaner...you CAN do it but its not recommended in the industry for PRO results.
@altillman1448 Yeah bleach works instantly on wood for sure. When it comes to wood I have found everybody has their own ways of cleaning it. Everett does have a lot of great videos and advice.
This may sound weird, but I could listen to you talk all day lol
I’m good at putting people to sleep with my voice 😂
Did you use hot water to mix the percarbonate?
This time I did have the luxury of having hot water. What I found to work great when you don’t is getting a paddle for paint mixing and put it on a drill. That works really good
Here I am with bleach and sandpaper breaking my back for a mediocre result. Should I switch halfway thru the deck? Or use this next year? I think the sanding is necessary since the wood seems to have ridges with the grain.
I would do what is going to be the less work. Bleach works good if the wood isn’t too bad. Sanding when washed will give you probably the best result.
It only took a few hours, small deck. So I guess it's faster to finish this way than to change the process. I'll step up my game next time around. Thanks for the suggestion! @@jonboysprowash7845
@@bradkrit You’re welcome. After sanding I’m sure it will look great.
@@jonboysprowash7845So you would do all your bleaching & washing before sanding?
@@MadLadsAnonymous If i were sanding it I would clean it first for sure
Wonder what would happen if I were to follow this method on wood that’s 4-yr old and only been stained once with Timber Oil Semi Transparent??
Not sure. You can always try a small test spot and try it out. I have only used it on untreated wood.
Where do you buy percarbonate and oxalic acid?
Pressuretek.com is where I got mine.
Where did you get the hot water?
never mind- I rewatched it. Great video
@@bolittle_fn9068 Thanks. Everywhere and everybody’s says warm water to mix ,but I didn’t have any issue with cool water. If you had a paint paddle stirrer and drill it would be even easier.
@@jonboysprowash7845 thank you!
@@bolittle_fn9068 You’re welcome. Thanks for watching 👍
Where do I buy percarbonate?
I got mine from pressuretek.com. I think you can get it on Amazon also.
Oxyclean
What's the temperature outside?
Key 🔑 is the temperature
On this day it was high 70’s
Brush in the application
The next wood job I do I will brush to see if it makes a difference. 👍
@@jonboysprowash7845 wizard of wood
@@losttheplot26 He has a lot of helpful videos
@@jonboysprowash7845 oxalic acid after diluted after. Definitely agitate with a brush. I just tried on some old benches. No pressure washer just a hose.
@@losttheplot26 Thanks. I think the brushing would make a big difference with some of the thick green algae that gets on the wood.
Dude, clean your shed!
Pretty bad huh?
Just messing with you! We use SH and then oxalic … much faster
I like using SH because I always have in on the truck. I keep getting some green build up the SH won’t get rid of and was looking for a different option.
Spray it and leave it alone. You will be amazed. Let the chemicals do the work
You spray wood with percarbonate and don’t rinse it. Just let it set?
If youre going to use a pressure washer, just cut all the chemicals out, its unnecessary, I mean youre wanding it arent you???
Yes. That is your opinion. I like using the chemicals. Less risk of damaging the wood.
@@jonboysprowash7845 No worries, seems like overkill though, a little bit of furring of the wood isnt a big deal
@@RootsMusic-ek5nc This is true.
@@RootsMusic-ek5nc Don't need pressure. That's how most folks ruin the wood.
True