Trying to FIX a Faulty Nintendo Switch purchased on eBay
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- Hi, this 'trying to fix' video shows me attempting to repair a faulty Nintendo Switch purchased from eBay. The seller listed the Switch as 'unable to charge'.
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that
comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks Vince. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
for some reason I find it comforting that youre not an "expert". Its nice to watch you work it out and solve things on your own.
I feel like you are just like me when I watch your videos. Not afraid to break a few eggs to try and make an omelette. That's a fun way to learn and your humble attitude makes it a joy to watch. Keep it up!
Thanks for the nice comments :-)
It a *joy* to watch joy - con get it ! No? Oh.
Except these eggs are $300 a pop.
@@Mymatevince Nao ~
when he said “ I don’t know how to, but I just like taking things apart.” Man I felt that so much.
Best way, I rarely ever look at teardown videos myself anymore. Just be careful and don't be scared of taking stuff apart
dude your troubleshooting methods are so correct and your hypothesis about 3rd party docks is dead on. you should go to school and get proper education. you'd be an excellent tech. you actually managed to reach to a proper technical conclusion better than my coworker.
Great video! Good diagnostic process.
Hello TronicsFix
#first reply 😅
First like
Floki by Arian Shut up
Hello
@@wildmonkeymc2380 nah mate
Your method of diagnosis seems so realistic, using the good board to see why it's good vs the bad one.
Hi My Mate VINCE if you are dealing with a bricked Nintendo switch you need a rcm jig to get into recovery mode so you can try resetting it to factory settings
You dont need a rcm jig to boot into recovery mode. RCM jigs are designed specifically for homebrew
I'm happy that my mate Isn't Vince. Never seen so many "effort 10/10" videos with trying to fix faulty consoles/other stuff and actually fails at it :)
:)
Huh I’m sorry but this confused me lol
The chip you've removed that shirted is the one that gets damaged by using a USB charger which does not have the 56k Ohm resister or dodgey dock. The thing most people, especially called the v5 firmware system killer. Spawn wave did a chip replacement a little bit back.
So the seller used a crappy charger cable or dock and trashed the unit.
I like these videos because this is exactly how i would go about doing repairs. I can follow what you are doing and im not overwhelmed with the speed some people go through these repair with.
It's so nice to see you experimenting with things, like opening up device and fixing and learning new things.. So satisfying!
I think you could change the chip(s) with soldering iron and with steady hands and being careful. But if you don't wan't to do that try to find repair shop that can do that for you. Like shop where you bring those chips and the Switch and tell em' to replace these with new ones (what you've bought from). Also if that does not interest then just take all parts you can get and start selling them, you could ask good price of them
Just found these type of videos and thought, wow, there must be soooo many troubleshooting hobbiests out there! Thanks for this!
To be honest even if it didn’t work you would still have a spare dock joy con grip and 2 joy cons and if you bought them new it would be more than you payed anyway.
No worries, despite what you paid, the experience and knowledge is invaluable in this game. Good work, thank for sharing the challenge!
Great effort there mate! Nice screen too, so you can buy a one with a damaged screen now and replace it!
Jay W Given the extortionate price for additional docks and joycons, here probably hasn't actually lost that much anyway, so your idea might make sense if he can get a great deal on a cracked screen Switch.
CamberwellCarrot exactly! Hopefully Vince will keep us informed and make another video if he finds one!
Jay W or with a Broken Cartridge-Slot
Ive never actually watched a video that was more than 30-45 minutes unless it was an actual show. this was actually really fun to watch.
You're almost there!!
You can find schematics and some macro pictures online and I'm pretty sure you could repair it. Please don't give up!
But how much is the schematics?
Don't know if you will see this message but I think it would be a cool idea for you to open a P.O. Box maybe for people to donate their broken items for you to fix. Just a thought I had you don't have to listen to me :)
Fritz I think you should contact him privately some way like email cause this is a good idea.
Uhhhh it cost monthly fees plus sending it back is extremely expensive
Proslayer 32 no one said anything about him sending it back just give him broken stuff for his little show
This guy doesn't know what he's doing why it freezes up like that on the Nintendo logo it's cuz it needs a new CPU it's crowded or overused or simply the fan is failing
CHINO BARRAZA he always claims he doesn’t really know what he is doing and that this is not a tutorial
The moment you realized that the chip being fired would cause every resistor and component to short to ground was just beautiful. As far as the "lost components" they are resistors and have no polarity. However they may be different values.... also some of the solid black ones may be diodes. And they indeed have polarity. if you can find an image of the newer board and get a reading off them then you can re solder them on. Either way beautiful.
Wasn't there a firmware update, to fix some consoles where if you let the battery completely die, It wouldn't charge again? I think Nintendo said that they would fix those for free, even if they were out of warranty.
The battery wasn't fully dead though. Fully dead Li-ion cells do not take a charge at all his did so it was not completely dead. No update will make them charge maybe a oscilloscope but not a update.
@@ogretheberserker2618 an oscilloscope just measures voltage over time. It in no way can charge a device. And I'm certain that no one has let their device reach the fully dead state. Batteries these days have too many protections. But if it's so dead the switch won't turn on, that could definitely pose a problem.
@@p4rsec I stand corrected, I was thinking lab power supply but put oscilloscope. Yes there are thing I use that do not have any protection to stop them going fully dead. They are unregulated box mods. Some coils I do are so low on how much it needs to heat it I have gone from heated just fine to dead.
I would NEVER do that to my perfectly working switch! And I'm borderline crazy ..U got some ballz mate
Hello, I just started following you a few days ago. I am so intrigued by your "wanting to fix" all these things. I enjoy seeing if you can figure it out. I also wonder if your fans help in the process. I look forward to watching more. Thank you
Really nice to see your progress here, and thankfully you could recover some of the investment in that you have a working dock, joycons, and like you said other components like the screen. Nice video!
It is so cool seeing the inside of a console
Can you try to fix a faulty sub box
nice one
Sage he does deserve more subs
Yea the Kanger Sub box mini is quite an unreliable vape 😀
If google cant fix it its hopeless man!
I was 100th like
i wouldnt give up on that board Vince those components can be replaced with a bit of practice it would depend on how much a replacement chip is tho. Great video all the same.
Was cheering when the screen first came on haha, oh well. Enjoyed the vid, like your positive attitude in adversity. Subscribed.
I have to commend you for tenacity. Well done. The only comment would be to stop wiping the circuit boards with paper towel. 30 years in the industry says ESD loves wrinkly paper. Let the alcohol air dry.
Uhf a Tip from a Hoby user ! Never use your hot rework station on things that are still in the console I destoryed an LCD with that on a 3ds board
Amazing how far you have come in 5 years mate. This would have been easy for you now …. Hope you still have it to fix 😊
That chip is definitely been fried probably due to failed hacking. The ground continuity on all of those components linked to that chip is a dead give away that that chip is fried and there is a ground short inside it, but it could be one of those capacitors that has fried and is shorted to ground. You can never know which cap is fried until you desolder them and test them individually.
and just so you know. If one cap is faulty and shorted to ground, it will show a short circuit on all the capacitors.
I'm sure someone already told you, but you're supposed to shield the neighboring components with kapton tape or use a chip-size specific metal shield that keeps the hot air from spilling all over the board.
Your channel is what I want to do and what I plan to do once I gain a solid amount of money :). Truly, It is almost impossible to find people that do things the way you like to do it which I like as well. Thanks for the cool videos!
Well at least you have a New battery and two joycons working :D
Ad Astra true
Ad Astra and the Screen, Shell and Cartridge-Slot
SPOILERS
Music Videos oops hehe sorry
If you’re the one who helped make the switch I haven’t switch and I think it’s a really cool device you did a really good job on it
About the bit at the beginning, not knowing what you'll get and taking a chance, it reminds me of unidentified items back in Diablo 2. Once you identified it, unless you got really lucky, it was worth significantly less. These repairs seem like that, where you're better off just selling it as an unknown rather than taking the chance yourself, because everyone else is overly eager to get lucky to the point the price is past what things should average out to. It's like, it's supposed to be that there would be a profit, or at least breaking even, in buying a bunch and selling them for what they're worth, but in reality it's like stock and speculation and just highly overvalued.
Check the diode block at the top of the mother board it's the black rectangle with the three legs it will have two diodes in it one going one direction the other going the other. Use the center pin as the reference point. On the blown board one of the diodes is probably open. Just an idea I don't know for certain that the component is defiantly a diode block or not it may be a regulator but what you are seeing sounds like an open diode.
Just to clarify, the little rectangle black component. With two pins on one side and one on the other.
'I'm going to go around with...maybe a dremel.'
me: 'PLEASE! NO! NOT WITH THE DREMEL! '
Me:omg I might unsubscribe
The board is either a different revision, or made by a different manufacturer for Nintendo. Those resistors you're poking around, the black ones are just that, resistors. Just note- if the resistor has a little square on it, it's considered a resistor fuse.
The brown ones are ceramic capacitors. If you have a capacitance tester you can test the capacitance. Maybe the resistors and the capacitors failed closed. Which would most likely damage the chip. Those resistors should give you a resistance reading. You can easily look up the resistance by the number on the resistor. Either way, good luck!
Good job in diagnosis and trying to find the faulty component....but as you said you'll take a dremel-tool to get the IC loose...i heavily cringed XD XD
I find this video quite interesting I just like the process of you figuring out what's wrong and how to maybe fix it !
I think that's a Bricked Switch, probably got hacked and had its system corrupted in the process and there have been some serious issues going on with the Homebrew scene lately in the past 2 weeks. Some homebrew was intentionally made to brick consoles to who ever try used and sell it has theirs, it without paying for it etc. It would get bricked so hard it would be beyond repair, unless you back it up before it happens.
Yep, I think that's the case too. Just by the fact that only the right joycon is broken, because they need to insert the jig everytime they boot.
Look into getting an Electrostatic discharge wrist strap if you work a lot with chipboards/motherboards, or really anything electronic, it's extremely easy to fry things even with a fraction of the amount of static electricity we generate. And you are on a carpeted floor which makes it easier for you to create static electricity, so be careful, and look into getting that ESD wrist strap, or if you don't want to buy one, make sure you ground yourself before touching anything, by touching something metal, like the case.
You should try Rcm Mode. The faulty motherboard could be the new generation of switches witch dont support loading payloads through RCM Mode and that could explain why the boards are different.
Yeah
Live, Line, Hot, Neutral, Ground and Earth are for AC feed circuits. Positive and Negative is used for DC control and power circuits.
Line (Positive Rail + or -), Input(Positive +), Output(Positive -) Latch(Rung Module) and Common(Negative) are for Ladder Logic and Logic Diagrams.
hey at least you got another set of joy cons and another dock. Those are pretty expensive on their own.
Xeranius WULFF DEN has a video to less exspensive ones for Switch. Yes the cons,where I am from cost more than a new game. Over $ 70.00.
The previous owner used a portable dock wich increases the voltage and damage something in the board, other youtubers like spawn wave had the same problem, in his video he explains more
one of the small pringles tubs is handy for putting screws in when dismantling something and its got a plastic cap which prevents screw loss if the tub got knocked over
I have the exact same problem when it's stuck at the logo and make the noise when i power off. Mine charges fine. If you know any fix, please tell me. Thanks.
Replace chip or probably buy a new one and sell old one for parts.
Did you use third party dock, etc?
You should definitely try dropping a new M92T36 on those pads and replacing the caps you took off (you can get a strip of SMD caps for a few bucks). The exact value isn't super critical and you may even get away with muntzing a few of them.
150 for that was a bit much.
I have seen a used one for 180 before
TheMysteriousKnight where the hell did you see a used one with everything but the charger going for 180? I can't find a single sold listing on eBay under 200 unless it's the tablet only.
Depends on where you live. I bought a full box set Second hand Switch with 10 months official warranty back in Feb 2018 from a local store for 176 pounds (230 USD).
edit: It seems UK Ebay is exceptionally expensive compared to other countries.
i wouldn't waste a quid on this rubbish
Awesome video! I hope to see you grow and get way better with this over the years.
It's a bricked switch unfortunately... whether that's from someone using an external dock, or if its someone using a fake hack.
But I suppose you have new joycons and a new battery. And something to hold onto if the modders come up with a fix.
Akuza Gaming It's beyond repair now. He damaged the board which can't be fixed without finding replacement parts which defeats the purpose.
I don't think fake hack would be able to stop switch from charging just cause it to endlessly boot loop
I wouldnt buy IT If they didnt tried to Hack IT they could usw the warranty
I don’t know why but I find these vids amusing
Awesome video
but 160 pounds!!!!!! For a broken one😡 thats expensive
Totoro 2000 that's $210 in the United States
jonaven everts you get the joy cons and a dock which is pretty pricey
Jacob Playz tf where u live?
I got mine for 260€ in a market. Packed.
Jacob Playz 360
Ok so im like "Yes, yes that's it, the chip is causing ground, yes you got it, yes you're right .....OMFG noooo, dont use a dremel" ....under no circumstances use a cutting tool on a PCB...please.....Great videos by the way...u have a new sub
For future reference ...the "little parts" don't matter which way they go on, you can match the sizes of brown caps from another board and the little black resistors should have a number on if not just use the same size black one again from another board
At the end, there was no flux put on the board before applying the heat to the chip. Use the heat and fan speed pretty low to start usually more heat, less fan
yay, NSwitch FIX video, exactly what I hoped for (the most, actually)
Love your videos, you pave the way so we don't have to kill our own equipment and I for one appreciate it
The M92T36 chip responsible for power negotiation appears to be broken. The system will not boot or charge when this chip is not working. You could buy a replacement chip online and have it soldered on or you could look up repair services. Tfix does repairs on it in the UK for 100 pounds.
You could buy a Switch with a broken screen and make it all work or make your money back parting it all out.
Solid effort was really hoping you would get it fixed. I've fixed things in the past but anything involving solder is a bit beyond me
You learned and I learned better debugging skills from watching you learn! Do you know what a resistor is, what a capacitor is, what a diode is and finally, what an inductor is? If not, learn the most basic definitions and continue to try and fix electronics. Once you know what those components do, you can think of ways to ID them, that'll help you find out what they should be doing in the circuit.
Found a new channel! :D
Great video and really fun to watch. You are much like myself. I have often bought a few things before just to try fix them. You learn a lot and very rewarding process when it works. Much what I can see when watching here!
your brittish accent was so lit
Is*
I have a English accent, am from London.
I’m half Australian half British so my voice sounds like the two mixed together
In from London and he sounds similar to me
@@Alexander_l322 London is very big and spans to places you'd never think was in London. But 'London-y' accents start around Peterborough.
im sure as time gets older, switch motherboards will become slightly more common then they are now. very nice attempt on disassembly though
Never reuse thermal paste. Never!
Reusing paste may allow airbubbles to get stuck between the two surfaces and will result in bad heat transfer
You should clean both surfaces with isopropyl alcohol and use a coffee filter as a lint free cloth
then apply a similar amount as before of fresh thermal paste with good heat conducting abilities
One other thing, you still have the good Nintendo, you can look at it to figure out what tiny components you lost on the bad board. Some good tips on how to do rework with a hot air gun are earlier in the comments here. Keep at it, I knew you were hooked when you bought the £80.00 Hot Air station!
can you do a video on trying to fix a shattered light bulb?
Really
Does any chip get warm (or very hot) when the console is plugged? Look for Louis Rossmann's video where his coworker fixes an LG enV3 VX9200. The phone won't charge and there are a couple of chips that get super hot. They use a thermal camera but you can just use your fingers, a IR thermometer or something like that. Maybe you can identify if there's something iffy that way.
4:08 check your views mate I think you'll change your mind
FP LOL his name is Vince
Aser Hegazy who tf doesn’t know that already?
Current has a sens, positive to negative. Idk why your voltmeter is setup, but if it’s beebing only when you get a positive current that would explain why on the good switch it makes sounds only once and not when you turn your electrodes. The currect is still passing but for your machine it reads -5v instead of 5v. The minus sign is probably the reason it doesn’t sound when you reverse your electrodes cause you put the positive electrode on the negative pin and vice-versa. It reads the current upside down. Also, electrodes when you said yours has on and the other has two can be normal, those electrical componants can be add, so two with a force of 125 equals 1 with the force of 250. Idk why they would change that tho, maybe for profit margins?! What i think could have happen here is that there were problems with the resistors, transistors or the comdensators, that would have lead to break the main chip that runs the console, after that the electricity couldn’t reach the other chips cause current wouldn’t pass, they are still working. So that’s why you get the front screen but it doesn’t boot up. Maybe not 100% accurate but that’s my take on it.
1:50 OH MY GOD YOU HAVE GPD WIN!
I want one
Whats thst
That
@@theuselessboii9751 Gpd Win, is the Small Notebook with Videogame controller
Got a Switch off E-bay that didn't charge as well. Like yours I didnt get the power supply. The guy told me the power supply was damaged by the family dog so they used a USB "C" cable and a "compatable" charger. As it was they used a 5V standard USB charger. The Switch needs a 15V USB "C" charger to work properly, but it will "play" on a 5V standard USB. I bought a new power supply and flipped the Switch for 3x what I paid.
It was fun watching you troubleshoot. Looks like I would enjoy doing everything you did here, unfortunately, you proved why i never bother. It almost always comes down to a component you can't find or easily swap out. Although you also proved it's totally do-able with the right tools, time, and practice. But I think in this case the repair is not worth the experience required to do. On the positive note you basicly just paid for controllers and dock not all bad!
Love the video. But you could easily make your money back selling for spares and repairs. Working joycons (replace the latches with metal ones) sell as pair refurbished for £45+
Dock easily a ton (£100)
lcd screen £35+
Digitiser £15
Other boards/buttons/speakers etc
What is the name of the device you used to display the eBay listing?
GPD Win
@@Alex-ie4bm Cool! Thank you!
Good diagnosis. It took a while to get there so well done.
the brownish SMD parts your testing for continuity are capacitors, the black ones are indeed resistors. the black big boxes are usually called ICs ( integrated circuits ) . If you want to swap one using your big solder iron a good trick is to apply normal leaded solder to the legs and then remove the solder using solder wick. Normally factories use lead free solder which is harder to work with. By applying leaded solder your reducing the melting point of it and it's easier to remove.
Another trick to remove those chips without a hot air gun you can apply a big blob of solder along the legs and then throw off the whole lot using a sweep of your big solder iron. Sometimes it's actually easier using the big tips because they store more heat.
Your continuity on the resistors might be a problem of oxidization. About the capacitors I am not sure myself. I'm not that knowledgeable. Maybe that leaded solder trick is helpful.
There's probably far more experienced people here that can help you out further, still interesting to watch. Keep rocking.
Bricked due to Homebrew hack,old user attempted to install homebrew and screwed up?
Use the isopropyl alcohol trick. Pour it over all related circuitry. Wherever it evaporates fastest is where the short circuit lies
Those small SMD components aren't directional, so if you didn't lose them, you can just solder them back in place using your video as reference to where they go and it would be good to go. Even if you didn't get a good fix, you'd learn a bit on how to solder SMD components if you take the time to clean the board using solder wick, get some good flux and go about trying to put it back in place. Stick a new chip on there if you can get one, and you might get lucky. Check out Louis Rossmann's channel on how to do micro soldering, and you'll see it's not magic. He has even done it using a heat gun, so it's not so much the tool as it is to know the technique.
I agree with Skauber. As someone else mentioned, it would help you to practice on scrap boards until you get the hang of it (I do this everyday at work). In the video when you were doing continuity checks, the top two black components were resistors and the bottom 3 tan colored components were capacitors. Those can be mounted any way around (except for electrolytic capacitors, which they are not). The only other thing you'd need to worry about orienting correctly is any diodes, but I don't think there were any in the area that I saw (those are marked with a white stripe on one end and they'd need to be oriented the same way when replaced). If you're careful, you can re-solder those parts where they were originally. They shouldn't have gotten damaged internally. Liquid flux is a MUST to help the solder flow from the parts to the pads as you hold them down with a fine tip tool such as tweezers, etc. and solder each side in turn. Clean up the flux afterwards with plenty of alcohol and swaps. For future projects using the heat gun, you should invest in some Kapton tape (heat resistant tape that looks like yellow cellophane). You can tape up all the way around the chip to keep the heat off the smaller surface mount devices and keep them from coming off the board as you heat the legs of the chip (go in circular motions around the chip and don't blow the air too hard). Hot air at 300 to 400 degrees F should do the trick. Prepare a fine tip tool to lift the chip off the board. Afterwards, use a fine gauge solder wick to remove the solder from all the pads and clean them up with alcohol and cotton swaps so solder will stick well to them and also so the new chip can sit flush on the board again before re-soldering. Reposition a new chip (Important! Check the video for proper orientation) and push down on it to hold it in position and apply liquid flux all around the chip. With a fine tip soldering iron already tinned with solder (700 degrees F is a good temp), touch each pin for a second or two to allow solder to flow between the leg and the pad (a magnifying lamp helps if you can get one so you can see better). You'll need to constantly re-apply a bit of solder onto the tip as you go along. Be patient and clean the tip often on a wet sponge (important!). You may short together a few of the legs with solder, but don't despair. That is easily corrected by sopping up the excess between the pins with the iron and your solder braid. Go slowly and try not to apply too much heat to the chip all at once (if your paranoid, you can allow it to cool just to be safe between soldering legs). Re-apply liquid flux as necessary, since some types will evaporate. Best of luck!
“Maybe a dog chewed through it” you so comedically specific
Search for the chip and see what's exactly what's inside the chip. I'm 99.9% sure the chip itself has blown and there are now internal connections that should not be there.
I worked for a circuit board company and we used chips and IC's in different forms and it really sounds like the chip has kinda blown internally.
You should bring out a book showcasing some of your best quotes such as "maybe the house was dusty?" and "its not worth dying for a dreamcast" 😂
Hey vince did you get a joycon that has joysticks that moves by itself how do you fix it
Bert 124 he has a video on it but TL;DR is you cant fix it without buying a metal release pin
7alepic im talking about the joysticks moving by its self
The household solution to that is get a q tip and toothpicks, lift up the rubber flap under the plastic tip, and try to wipe dust out of there. If you wanna be more advanced, try this with canned air. My right joystick occasionally drifts downwards. I did this and it didnt fix it, but its less severe now, so I can at least play normally.
sorry it was kind of unclear what you meant
Joycon analog stick drifting happened to me I used compressed air it fixed it
I'm not sure if your hot air gun has that ability but if you set the airflow lower, that would help not blow off the other components. IR BGA rework stations don't suffer from this as it has no airflow, it's all IR.
Get your hands on a Quick 861DW!
The hot air rework station you have there is garbage compared to one of these.
i went from a ebay special station like what you have purchased to one of the "Quick" ones and it was a night and day difference!
Try the fuses near the charging slot, they're very small but they can prevent it from charging, dsi and 3ds had the same problems.
I'm sure Nintendo will fix it.
This seems like an inherent problem with the hardware and expecting the user to deal with it is unreasonable to say the least.
EU Consumer Rights Act.
Fire On A Wire nope, it is like filling your car with the wrong sort of fuel and killing the engine in the process. You yourself used something that wasn‘t officially supported and supposed to be used and therefore you are responsible. Sure it is not great that Nintendo adjusted the USB c standard for their needs (like many other companies have done since USB exsists) but if you used something that isn’t supported, it is not the manufacturers fault and in extend, nothing covered by the EU rights.
thats not correct; its like using the gas from another station, not another type of fuel (regarding using the "wrong" charger unit). the usb-c(PD) standard is nothing a customer should have to care about - if it says USB-C, the typical standard customer will think (and thats absolutely ok) EVERY usb-c charger/cable will work and thats what it should do.
Came for the Switch repair, left with the knowledge that that GPD pocket computer exists and now I have another expensive item I MUST own.
"It won't get the views" I wonder how he reacted when he saw how he almost had 1 million views on this video
I do believe the chip has shorted, that's why the power is passing straight through when you test with the meter. Which you figured out after I commented lol.
Power isn't passing straight through it the opposite its shorting to ground which means no power is passing through. But yes that IC definitely was bad enough to prevent the switch from booting up all the way.
can you try to fix a faulty ps 3 fat or slim or super slim
Hi, I have a box of 3x PS3 Fat version that are faulty so hopefully I can look at them maybe next week :-)
My Mate VINCE That will be great thanks!
this was a very informative video. im now confident that if i didd decide to buy one of these second hand that i could probably fix it if its not working properly :)
hi um. i my switch was recently stolen and if you see a switch for sale with pink and green controllers, please let me know
•COSMIC KITTEN• check sites like Craigslist and other sites like those where people sell stuff within the area hope you find your switch soon
I think I saw one on eBay with green and pink joycons
Wow so bad I hope you get it back if my switch was stole I would really be sad. Hope you get it soon!!!
THE BEAST BEYOND THE OTHERS oh! can you link it to me?
That could literally be any switch on the market right now, but good luck man!
Vince you can use aluminium duct tape to protect surrounding area when reworking than use IPA to clean off the goo .. cant do smd work myself my eyes cant see that small I go crossed eye
IPA? Nahhh I'm more for dark ales like hobgoblin ;D
But can you fix my faulty life?
Good Videos. I'm not into the switch but i like the dedication ;) Only Critics: you might mono your Camera Audio. Your vocals are coming from the left most of the time... Keep going...Maybe one day your videos might help me fixing something
Could you do a faulty ps vita fixing video???