I feel like you are just like me when I watch your videos. Not afraid to break a few eggs to try and make an omelette. That's a fun way to learn and your humble attitude makes it a joy to watch. Keep it up!
@@Luigi3289 so does everyone 😂🤣😂 we call that the switch life. Drift is a huge problem with joycons, I had my switch since day one and replaced so many joycons I lost count!
As a previous Nintendo customer service employee, every Nintendo system/product comes with a 1 year warranty that starts the day you buy it so if the system hasn't been damage to unrepaired like broken in two (housing cracks, like small dents or screen scratchers, or like faulty charging issues are fine but make sure you haven't tried to open and fix the system yourself because that goes against the warranty) or as long as it's not water damage then you would get a free repair under the warranty. So, whoever sold this could've gotten a free repair if they would of just called Nintendo instead of selling it on Ebay lol. Just some friendly advice before anyone tries to do the repair themselves if they stumble upon this video.
Chris Adams it looks like its been water damage pretty bad but I would suggest to get a new one or a pro controller. But if the L button is the only one that isn't working then if I was you I would look for spare joy con parts for the left side and do a repair of your own but if you don't have the tools or don't want to bother on fixing it yourself it would be better just to buy a new joy con or controller. I have also seen joy cons being sold that aren't in a pack, so you'll be able to find a left joy con for cheap on the internet. Good luck dude.
Chris Adams you'll be fine, the warranty would cover it if you need a new one and if it hasn't been more than a year. Now if it's been past a year and lets say you already have a replacement battery then you're good to open it yourself, same thing goes for if you don't want to use the warranty.
Hi My Mate VINCE if you are dealing with a bricked Nintendo switch you need a rcm jig to get into recovery mode so you can try resetting it to factory settings
I like these videos because this is exactly how i would go about doing repairs. I can follow what you are doing and im not overwhelmed with the speed some people go through these repair with.
Good video man, I used to do this for a living and pcb rework is no easy task! I was trained in surface mount repair, through hole and pad and track diagnostics. Hot air removal of IC's was always tricky, always pressure to not damage the board. The difference was, I did this in the late 90s and the components were larger and easier to deal with. The sheer intricacies of modern boards scare the shit out me!
dude your troubleshooting methods are so correct and your hypothesis about 3rd party docks is dead on. you should go to school and get proper education. you'd be an excellent tech. you actually managed to reach to a proper technical conclusion better than my coworker.
The chip you've removed that shirted is the one that gets damaged by using a USB charger which does not have the 56k Ohm resister or dodgey dock. The thing most people, especially called the v5 firmware system killer. Spawn wave did a chip replacement a little bit back.
It's so nice to see you experimenting with things, like opening up device and fixing and learning new things.. So satisfying! I think you could change the chip(s) with soldering iron and with steady hands and being careful. But if you don't wan't to do that try to find repair shop that can do that for you. Like shop where you bring those chips and the Switch and tell em' to replace these with new ones (what you've bought from). Also if that does not interest then just take all parts you can get and start selling them, you could ask good price of them
I'm happy that my mate Isn't Vince. Never seen so many "effort 10/10" videos with trying to fix faulty consoles/other stuff and actually fails at it :) :)
Wasn't there a firmware update, to fix some consoles where if you let the battery completely die, It wouldn't charge again? I think Nintendo said that they would fix those for free, even if they were out of warranty.
The battery wasn't fully dead though. Fully dead Li-ion cells do not take a charge at all his did so it was not completely dead. No update will make them charge maybe a oscilloscope but not a update.
@@ogretheberserker2618 an oscilloscope just measures voltage over time. It in no way can charge a device. And I'm certain that no one has let their device reach the fully dead state. Batteries these days have too many protections. But if it's so dead the switch won't turn on, that could definitely pose a problem.
@@p4rsec I stand corrected, I was thinking lab power supply but put oscilloscope. Yes there are thing I use that do not have any protection to stop them going fully dead. They are unregulated box mods. Some coils I do are so low on how much it needs to heat it I have gone from heated just fine to dead.
Jay W Given the extortionate price for additional docks and joycons, here probably hasn't actually lost that much anyway, so your idea might make sense if he can get a great deal on a cracked screen Switch.
Over covid I did my first refurbish project on a messed up gameboy color. I’ve basically fix everything I’ve touched ever since. I’ve fixed multiple hand held game consoles. I just recently rebuild a Nintendo switch and a Nintendo switch lite. Full shell swap and LCD replacement.
To be honest even if it didn’t work you would still have a spare dock joy con grip and 2 joy cons and if you bought them new it would be more than you payed anyway.
Hello, I just started following you a few days ago. I am so intrigued by your "wanting to fix" all these things. I enjoy seeing if you can figure it out. I also wonder if your fans help in the process. I look forward to watching more. Thank you
Don't know if you will see this message but I think it would be a cool idea for you to open a P.O. Box maybe for people to donate their broken items for you to fix. Just a thought I had you don't have to listen to me :)
This guy doesn't know what he's doing why it freezes up like that on the Nintendo logo it's cuz it needs a new CPU it's crowded or overused or simply the fan is failing
Extremely good effort and troubleshooting for someone that doesn't know too much about PCB reworking/Soldering! You did find the problem and located the faulty IC but slightly brutal with the rework station at the very end. I don't even own a switch but your efforts where constructed and worth it.
Really nice to see your progress here, and thankfully you could recover some of the investment in that you have a working dock, joycons, and like you said other components like the screen. Nice video!
I have to commend you for tenacity. Well done. The only comment would be to stop wiping the circuit boards with paper towel. 30 years in the industry says ESD loves wrinkly paper. Let the alcohol air dry.
The moment you realized that the chip being fired would cause every resistor and component to short to ground was just beautiful. As far as the "lost components" they are resistors and have no polarity. However they may be different values.... also some of the solid black ones may be diodes. And they indeed have polarity. if you can find an image of the newer board and get a reading off them then you can re solder them on. Either way beautiful.
Im a novice at rework stations too, but what I do to keep nearby surface mounted components from coming off is kapton tape. I just lay kapton tape on the bits I want to keep around the area Im working so they dont get as hot.
Your channel is what I want to do and what I plan to do once I gain a solid amount of money :). Truly, It is almost impossible to find people that do things the way you like to do it which I like as well. Thanks for the cool videos!
Thanks to this video I was encouraged to buy broken things in ebay, I bought a plate from a acer aspire 5750g for 26$, and it had broken the solderings of the graphics chip (the motherboard was crooked), I straightened it, I reflowed it and it came back to life :) I will also encourage you to buy a broken switch, I hope it works well xDD.
Any time you're dealing with a port (HGMI/USB/charger), the very first thing you look at is the port's solder connections to the board. If any of the pins moves when pressed (lightly), it needs to be re-soldered. That's the most common issue with ports. *edit* I'm so glad you didn't try to de-solder a chip with a dremel tool lol! You need to shield around the chip you intend to de-solder you so don't accidentally remove tiny capacitors and resistors surrounding it. There's lots of channels dedicated to component level repairs. Louis Rossmann is a good one. He does only Apple products on his channel, but it's the exact same process, and he shows you all of the tricks he's learned over the years.
For a $60 dock, $80 joycons, a $30 ac adapter, and a $10 grip, you're actually up about $30, not including the value you'll get from the internals of the system itself.
He’s not going to be able to sell any of it full price though. He pointed out faults in each thing he got and despite if it has a fault or not, its used. Dropping the selling price regardless of condition.
@@TerraMarie34 used screens maintain nearly 100% of the value aslong as they arnt badly scratched, this is true for all devices, working internals are the same
He'll have no issue selling the screen, battery, joycons, chassis, dock,heat sink &fan, wireless module, flex connectors and even the box. PS, there was no ac plug
i wouldnt give up on that board Vince those components can be replaced with a bit of practice it would depend on how much a replacement chip is tho. Great video all the same.
Found a new channel! :D Great video and really fun to watch. You are much like myself. I have often bought a few things before just to try fix them. You learn a lot and very rewarding process when it works. Much what I can see when watching here!
I'm sure someone already told you, but you're supposed to shield the neighboring components with kapton tape or use a chip-size specific metal shield that keeps the hot air from spilling all over the board.
That chip is definitely been fried probably due to failed hacking. The ground continuity on all of those components linked to that chip is a dead give away that that chip is fried and there is a ground short inside it, but it could be one of those capacitors that has fried and is shorted to ground. You can never know which cap is fried until you desolder them and test them individually. and just so you know. If one cap is faulty and shorted to ground, it will show a short circuit on all the capacitors.
The M92T36 chip responsible for power negotiation appears to be broken. The system will not boot or charge when this chip is not working. You could buy a replacement chip online and have it soldered on or you could look up repair services. Tfix does repairs on it in the UK for 100 pounds.
I'm very good at soldering and using heat guns, I applauded 👏👏you for trying good work, now I know exactly what chip to go for if I ever come across a bricked switch
The fact you have continuity there - you have a short across a supply rail. This could help you. Connect a battery up, and feel around the chips and components on the charge circuit. You might find that something is incredibly hot there - that will be your faulty component.
I have the exact same problem when it's stuck at the logo and make the noise when i power off. Mine charges fine. If you know any fix, please tell me. Thanks.
If you didn't lift any pads (doesn't look like it) you can still repair that. Get some good flux, a working replacement chip, and measure the values of the resistors and caps on your working switch. If you kept the parts you removed it's even easier, because you don't have to chase replacements (they are cheaper than hell tho, smd caps and resistors are really cheap). Do put some kapton tape on the other components nearby if you try to do it, that keeps them from being removed by heat. Someone suggested it already but you could look up louis rossmann channel for examples of how to put the working chip back on. Good luck if you do try to do it!
The previous owner used a portable dock wich increases the voltage and damage something in the board, other youtubers like spawn wave had the same problem, in his video he explains more
Continuity says short to ground on the rail(s) the chip was on. Replacing the chip could fix it, but the problem could also be on the other side of the board, at the solder pad or some deep corrosion within the board (rare). Best thing to try it plug in the board, connect it up and see which chip gets the hottest under an IR camera, then replace that one.
I think that's a Bricked Switch, probably got hacked and had its system corrupted in the process and there have been some serious issues going on with the Homebrew scene lately in the past 2 weeks. Some homebrew was intentionally made to brick consoles to who ever try used and sell it has theirs, it without paying for it etc. It would get bricked so hard it would be beyond repair, unless you back it up before it happens.
Does any chip get warm (or very hot) when the console is plugged? Look for Louis Rossmann's video where his coworker fixes an LG enV3 VX9200. The phone won't charge and there are a couple of chips that get super hot. They use a thermal camera but you can just use your fingers, a IR thermometer or something like that. Maybe you can identify if there's something iffy that way.
You can replace those resistors and caps - just measure the resistors on a working board (maybe remove one at a time to check out of circuit). It's not as hard as you think! To remove a single resistors or cap like that, I would use a standard soldering iron and flux the component, heat both sides of the resistor or cap at the same time to remove it. I wouldnt use hot air to remove a single SMD resistor or cap.
one of the small pringles tubs is handy for putting screws in when dismantling something and its got a plastic cap which prevents screw loss if the tub got knocked over
The board is either a different revision, or made by a different manufacturer for Nintendo. Those resistors you're poking around, the black ones are just that, resistors. Just note- if the resistor has a little square on it, it's considered a resistor fuse. The brown ones are ceramic capacitors. If you have a capacitance tester you can test the capacitance. Maybe the resistors and the capacitors failed closed. Which would most likely damage the chip. Those resistors should give you a resistance reading. You can easily look up the resistance by the number on the resistor. Either way, good luck!
You should try Rcm Mode. The faulty motherboard could be the new generation of switches witch dont support loading payloads through RCM Mode and that could explain why the boards are different.
Check the diode block at the top of the mother board it's the black rectangle with the three legs it will have two diodes in it one going one direction the other going the other. Use the center pin as the reference point. On the blown board one of the diodes is probably open. Just an idea I don't know for certain that the component is defiantly a diode block or not it may be a regulator but what you are seeing sounds like an open diode.
Look into getting an Electrostatic discharge wrist strap if you work a lot with chipboards/motherboards, or really anything electronic, it's extremely easy to fry things even with a fraction of the amount of static electricity we generate. And you are on a carpeted floor which makes it easier for you to create static electricity, so be careful, and look into getting that ESD wrist strap, or if you don't want to buy one, make sure you ground yourself before touching anything, by touching something metal, like the case.
I know im late, but if its a hand-held pc, the first thing that came to mind was a GPD Micro PC, although im not sure if its the first or second version. You can even see the name at 2:00
Live, Line, Hot, Neutral, Ground and Earth are for AC feed circuits. Positive and Negative is used for DC control and power circuits. Line (Positive Rail + or -), Input(Positive +), Output(Positive -) Latch(Rung Module) and Common(Negative) are for Ladder Logic and Logic Diagrams.
Good job in diagnosis and trying to find the faulty component....but as you said you'll take a dremel-tool to get the IC loose...i heavily cringed XD XD
You should definitely try dropping a new M92T36 on those pads and replacing the caps you took off (you can get a strip of SMD caps for a few bucks). The exact value isn't super critical and you may even get away with muntzing a few of them.
TheMysteriousKnight where the hell did you see a used one with everything but the charger going for 180? I can't find a single sold listing on eBay under 200 unless it's the tablet only.
Depends on where you live. I bought a full box set Second hand Switch with 10 months official warranty back in Feb 2018 from a local store for 176 pounds (230 USD). edit: It seems UK Ebay is exceptionally expensive compared to other countries.
At the end, there was no flux put on the board before applying the heat to the chip. Use the heat and fan speed pretty low to start usually more heat, less fan
It's a bricked switch unfortunately... whether that's from someone using an external dock, or if its someone using a fake hack. But I suppose you have new joycons and a new battery. And something to hold onto if the modders come up with a fix.
Saw several videos about this problem. And I am happy i did so before i bought anything charging related from another brand. The switch might die if you use non Nintendo equipment to charge it in any way.
nice attempt, and its nice to see you go till the end and not give up, try looking at head shields for the parts you don't want to heat up. Subscribed ;)
Voultar has been the best guy to watch for how to do micro soldering he, doesn't set out to really teach all that much but he shows some really good practices, and how to get hot glue and epoxy off a board.
The household solution to that is get a q tip and toothpicks, lift up the rubber flap under the plastic tip, and try to wipe dust out of there. If you wanna be more advanced, try this with canned air. My right joystick occasionally drifts downwards. I did this and it didnt fix it, but its less severe now, so I can at least play normally.
About the bit at the beginning, not knowing what you'll get and taking a chance, it reminds me of unidentified items back in Diablo 2. Once you identified it, unless you got really lucky, it was worth significantly less. These repairs seem like that, where you're better off just selling it as an unknown rather than taking the chance yourself, because everyone else is overly eager to get lucky to the point the price is past what things should average out to. It's like, it's supposed to be that there would be a profit, or at least breaking even, in buying a bunch and selling them for what they're worth, but in reality it's like stock and speculation and just highly overvalued.
You learned and I learned better debugging skills from watching you learn! Do you know what a resistor is, what a capacitor is, what a diode is and finally, what an inductor is? If not, learn the most basic definitions and continue to try and fix electronics. Once you know what those components do, you can think of ways to ID them, that'll help you find out what they should be doing in the circuit.
Never reuse thermal paste. Never! Reusing paste may allow airbubbles to get stuck between the two surfaces and will result in bad heat transfer You should clean both surfaces with isopropyl alcohol and use a coffee filter as a lint free cloth then apply a similar amount as before of fresh thermal paste with good heat conducting abilities
when he said “ I don’t know how to, but I just like taking things apart.” Man I felt that so much.
Best way, I rarely ever look at teardown videos myself anymore. Just be careful and don't be scared of taking stuff apart
for some reason I find it comforting that youre not an "expert". Its nice to watch you work it out and solve things on your own.
Can we all just take a min and just admire how nice vince really is
I feel like you are just like me when I watch your videos. Not afraid to break a few eggs to try and make an omelette. That's a fun way to learn and your humble attitude makes it a joy to watch. Keep it up!
Thanks for the nice comments :-)
It a *joy* to watch joy - con get it ! No? Oh.
Except these eggs are $300 a pop.
@@Mymatevince Nao ~
Whoever sold that to you saying that it just "doesn't charge" sounds like a real piece of switch
Ben's Boring Videos wat
Why? It DOESNT charge
I have a switch and the red joycon’s joystick is drifting down
@@Luigi3289 so does everyone 😂🤣😂 we call that the switch life. Drift is a huge problem with joycons, I had my switch since day one and replaced so many joycons I lost count!
I agree, the seller is son of a switch......
I remember having the shaky hands when I started repairing electronics! It was very exciting lol
Late comment but Lol yea that kinda happened to me
As a previous Nintendo customer service employee, every Nintendo system/product comes with a 1 year warranty that starts the day you buy it so if the system hasn't been damage to unrepaired like broken in two (housing cracks, like small dents or screen scratchers, or like faulty charging issues are fine but make sure you haven't tried to open and fix the system yourself because that goes against the warranty) or as long as it's not water damage then you would get a free repair under the warranty. So, whoever sold this could've gotten a free repair if they would of just called Nintendo instead of selling it on Ebay lol. Just some friendly advice before anyone tries to do the repair themselves if they stumble upon this video.
Chris Adams I can help you with that. Buy a new joy con. Problem solved
Chris Adams it looks like its been water damage pretty bad but I would suggest to get a new one or a pro controller. But if the L button is the only one that isn't working then if I was you I would look for spare joy con parts for the left side and do a repair of your own but if you don't have the tools or don't want to bother on fixing it yourself it would be better just to buy a new joy con or controller. I have also seen joy cons being sold that aren't in a pack, so you'll be able to find a left joy con for cheap on the internet. Good luck dude.
You can open it up without voiding the warranty now
Jmeastro1 Gaming since when? I stopped working there only a few months ago, they had that policy for years. Hard to believe they just took that away
Chris Adams you'll be fine, the warranty would cover it if you need a new one and if it hasn't been more than a year. Now if it's been past a year and lets say you already have a replacement battery then you're good to open it yourself, same thing goes for if you don't want to use the warranty.
Great video! Good diagnostic process.
Hello TronicsFix
#first reply 😅
First like
Floki by Arian Shut up
Hello
@@wildmonkeymc2380 nah mate
That was a rollercoaster of emotions from start to finish. I feel like we’ve all grown.
Your method of diagnosis seems so realistic, using the good board to see why it's good vs the bad one.
Hi My Mate VINCE if you are dealing with a bricked Nintendo switch you need a rcm jig to get into recovery mode so you can try resetting it to factory settings
You dont need a rcm jig to boot into recovery mode. RCM jigs are designed specifically for homebrew
I like these videos because this is exactly how i would go about doing repairs. I can follow what you are doing and im not overwhelmed with the speed some people go through these repair with.
Good video man, I used to do this for a living and pcb rework is no easy task! I was trained in surface mount repair, through hole and pad and track diagnostics. Hot air removal of IC's was always tricky, always pressure to not damage the board. The difference was, I did this in the late 90s and the components were larger and easier to deal with. The sheer intricacies of modern boards scare the shit out me!
dude your troubleshooting methods are so correct and your hypothesis about 3rd party docks is dead on. you should go to school and get proper education. you'd be an excellent tech. you actually managed to reach to a proper technical conclusion better than my coworker.
The chip you've removed that shirted is the one that gets damaged by using a USB charger which does not have the 56k Ohm resister or dodgey dock. The thing most people, especially called the v5 firmware system killer. Spawn wave did a chip replacement a little bit back.
So the seller used a crappy charger cable or dock and trashed the unit.
Really like your videos! No big words, no complex schematics, etc. Just pure simple tinkering!
It's so nice to see you experimenting with things, like opening up device and fixing and learning new things.. So satisfying!
I think you could change the chip(s) with soldering iron and with steady hands and being careful. But if you don't wan't to do that try to find repair shop that can do that for you. Like shop where you bring those chips and the Switch and tell em' to replace these with new ones (what you've bought from). Also if that does not interest then just take all parts you can get and start selling them, you could ask good price of them
I'm happy that my mate Isn't Vince. Never seen so many "effort 10/10" videos with trying to fix faulty consoles/other stuff and actually fails at it :)
:)
Huh I’m sorry but this confused me lol
Wasn't there a firmware update, to fix some consoles where if you let the battery completely die, It wouldn't charge again? I think Nintendo said that they would fix those for free, even if they were out of warranty.
The battery wasn't fully dead though. Fully dead Li-ion cells do not take a charge at all his did so it was not completely dead. No update will make them charge maybe a oscilloscope but not a update.
@@ogretheberserker2618 an oscilloscope just measures voltage over time. It in no way can charge a device. And I'm certain that no one has let their device reach the fully dead state. Batteries these days have too many protections. But if it's so dead the switch won't turn on, that could definitely pose a problem.
@@p4rsec I stand corrected, I was thinking lab power supply but put oscilloscope. Yes there are thing I use that do not have any protection to stop them going fully dead. They are unregulated box mods. Some coils I do are so low on how much it needs to heat it I have gone from heated just fine to dead.
Ive never actually watched a video that was more than 30-45 minutes unless it was an actual show. this was actually really fun to watch.
Can you try to fix a faulty sub box
nice one
Sage he does deserve more subs
Yea the Kanger Sub box mini is quite an unreliable vape 😀
If google cant fix it its hopeless man!
I was 100th like
Just found these type of videos and thought, wow, there must be soooo many troubleshooting hobbiests out there! Thanks for this!
Great effort there mate! Nice screen too, so you can buy a one with a damaged screen now and replace it!
Jay W Given the extortionate price for additional docks and joycons, here probably hasn't actually lost that much anyway, so your idea might make sense if he can get a great deal on a cracked screen Switch.
CamberwellCarrot exactly! Hopefully Vince will keep us informed and make another video if he finds one!
Jay W or with a Broken Cartridge-Slot
Over covid I did my first refurbish project on a messed up gameboy color. I’ve basically fix everything I’ve touched ever since. I’ve fixed multiple hand held game consoles. I just recently rebuild a Nintendo switch and a Nintendo switch lite. Full shell swap and LCD replacement.
No worries, despite what you paid, the experience and knowledge is invaluable in this game. Good work, thank for sharing the challenge!
I don't know why I watch your videos - but I find them very soothing.
To be honest even if it didn’t work you would still have a spare dock joy con grip and 2 joy cons and if you bought them new it would be more than you payed anyway.
Hello, I just started following you a few days ago. I am so intrigued by your "wanting to fix" all these things. I enjoy seeing if you can figure it out. I also wonder if your fans help in the process. I look forward to watching more. Thank you
Don't know if you will see this message but I think it would be a cool idea for you to open a P.O. Box maybe for people to donate their broken items for you to fix. Just a thought I had you don't have to listen to me :)
Fritz I think you should contact him privately some way like email cause this is a good idea.
Uhhhh it cost monthly fees plus sending it back is extremely expensive
Proslayer 32 no one said anything about him sending it back just give him broken stuff for his little show
This guy doesn't know what he's doing why it freezes up like that on the Nintendo logo it's cuz it needs a new CPU it's crowded or overused or simply the fan is failing
CHINO BARRAZA he always claims he doesn’t really know what he is doing and that this is not a tutorial
Extremely good effort and troubleshooting for someone that doesn't know too much about PCB reworking/Soldering! You did find the problem and located the faulty IC but slightly brutal with the rework station at the very end. I don't even own a switch but your efforts where constructed and worth it.
When i saw the title of the video i was like there we go!!
just so you know, Mario says "here we go!" not "there we go!"
Was cheering when the screen first came on haha, oh well. Enjoyed the vid, like your positive attitude in adversity. Subscribed.
Really nice to see your progress here, and thankfully you could recover some of the investment in that you have a working dock, joycons, and like you said other components like the screen. Nice video!
I have to commend you for tenacity. Well done. The only comment would be to stop wiping the circuit boards with paper towel. 30 years in the industry says ESD loves wrinkly paper. Let the alcohol air dry.
You're almost there!!
You can find schematics and some macro pictures online and I'm pretty sure you could repair it. Please don't give up!
But how much is the schematics?
The moment you realized that the chip being fired would cause every resistor and component to short to ground was just beautiful. As far as the "lost components" they are resistors and have no polarity. However they may be different values.... also some of the solid black ones may be diodes. And they indeed have polarity. if you can find an image of the newer board and get a reading off them then you can re solder them on. Either way beautiful.
Im a novice at rework stations too, but what I do to keep nearby surface mounted components from coming off is kapton tape. I just lay kapton tape on the bits I want to keep around the area Im working so they dont get as hot.
saysbadman yep it's magic tape!
Your channel is what I want to do and what I plan to do once I gain a solid amount of money :). Truly, It is almost impossible to find people that do things the way you like to do it which I like as well. Thanks for the cool videos!
Since the seller said it was working perfectly except for the charging, you might be able to make a claim on it.
@@xlandedit7639 exactly.... it wont charge.......... so of course no boot loop would occur....
Nope it says "for parts not working"
CONDITION. It’s condition. Not how it works. It’s clean and new looking. But it’s bricked and no charging.
Thanks to this video I was encouraged to buy broken things in ebay, I bought a plate from a acer aspire 5750g for 26$, and it had broken the solderings of the graphics chip (the motherboard was crooked), I straightened it, I reflowed it and it came back to life :)
I will also encourage you to buy a broken switch, I hope it works well xDD.
I would NEVER do that to my perfectly working switch! And I'm borderline crazy ..U got some ballz mate
Any time you're dealing with a port (HGMI/USB/charger), the very first thing you look at is the port's solder connections to the board. If any of the pins moves when pressed (lightly), it needs to be re-soldered. That's the most common issue with ports.
*edit* I'm so glad you didn't try to de-solder a chip with a dremel tool lol! You need to shield around the chip you intend to de-solder you so don't accidentally remove tiny capacitors and resistors surrounding it. There's lots of channels dedicated to component level repairs. Louis Rossmann is a good one. He does only Apple products on his channel, but it's the exact same process, and he shows you all of the tricks he's learned over the years.
For a $60 dock, $80 joycons, a $30 ac adapter, and a $10 grip, you're actually up about $30, not including the value you'll get from the internals of the system itself.
And a working screen/misc components outside of the mainboard. :)
He’s not going to be able to sell any of it full price though. He pointed out faults in each thing he got and despite if it has a fault or not, its used. Dropping the selling price regardless of condition.
@@TerraMarie34 Sure, I'm not saying in cash, I'm saying in value.
@@TerraMarie34 used screens maintain nearly 100% of the value aslong as they arnt badly scratched, this is true for all devices, working internals are the same
He'll have no issue selling the screen, battery, joycons, chassis, dock,heat sink &fan, wireless module, flex connectors and even the box.
PS, there was no ac plug
Man I could listen to you try to fix stuff for hours.
i wouldnt give up on that board Vince those components can be replaced with a bit of practice it would depend on how much a replacement chip is tho. Great video all the same.
Found a new channel! :D
Great video and really fun to watch. You are much like myself. I have often bought a few things before just to try fix them. You learn a lot and very rewarding process when it works. Much what I can see when watching here!
Well at least you have a New battery and two joycons working :D
Ad Astra true
Ad Astra and the Screen, Shell and Cartridge-Slot
SPOILERS
Music Videos oops hehe sorry
I'm sure someone already told you, but you're supposed to shield the neighboring components with kapton tape or use a chip-size specific metal shield that keeps the hot air from spilling all over the board.
That chip is definitely been fried probably due to failed hacking. The ground continuity on all of those components linked to that chip is a dead give away that that chip is fried and there is a ground short inside it, but it could be one of those capacitors that has fried and is shorted to ground. You can never know which cap is fried until you desolder them and test them individually.
and just so you know. If one cap is faulty and shorted to ground, it will show a short circuit on all the capacitors.
The M92T36 chip responsible for power negotiation appears to be broken. The system will not boot or charge when this chip is not working. You could buy a replacement chip online and have it soldered on or you could look up repair services. Tfix does repairs on it in the UK for 100 pounds.
Probably a bricked switch trying the latest hacking method for it
Jojo Stark that's incorrect, the best hacking method right now, SX OS is completely safe. You are referring to the fake SX OS software
complete safe if you never go online
probably a brick from a third party dock.
kinda hard to brick via hacking
Ken Bailey yeah, bricks via hacking are hard, bricks via hacking using pirated software, like the pirated version of SX OS DO BRICK
ACG unless they triggered the brick code
Awesome video! I hope to see you grow and get way better with this over the years.
Uhf a Tip from a Hoby user ! Never use your hot rework station on things that are still in the console I destoryed an LCD with that on a 3ds board
I'm very good at soldering and using heat guns, I applauded 👏👏you for trying good work, now I know exactly what chip to go for if I ever come across a bricked switch
The fact you have continuity there - you have a short across a supply rail. This could help you. Connect a battery up, and feel around the chips and components on the charge circuit. You might find that something is incredibly hot there - that will be your faulty component.
I have the exact same problem when it's stuck at the logo and make the noise when i power off. Mine charges fine. If you know any fix, please tell me. Thanks.
Replace chip or probably buy a new one and sell old one for parts.
Did you use third party dock, etc?
If you didn't lift any pads (doesn't look like it) you can still repair that. Get some good flux, a working replacement chip, and measure the values of the resistors and caps on your working switch. If you kept the parts you removed it's even easier, because you don't have to chase replacements (they are cheaper than hell tho, smd caps and resistors are really cheap). Do put some kapton tape on the other components nearby if you try to do it, that keeps them from being removed by heat. Someone suggested it already but you could look up louis rossmann channel for examples of how to put the working chip back on. Good luck if you do try to do it!
The previous owner used a portable dock wich increases the voltage and damage something in the board, other youtubers like spawn wave had the same problem, in his video he explains more
Continuity says short to ground on the rail(s) the chip was on. Replacing the chip could fix it, but the problem could also be on the other side of the board, at the solder pad or some deep corrosion within the board (rare). Best thing to try it plug in the board, connect it up and see which chip gets the hottest under an IR camera, then replace that one.
You are correct it would be more vulnerable to third party chargers, but fuses very rarely blow on boards
I think that's a Bricked Switch, probably got hacked and had its system corrupted in the process and there have been some serious issues going on with the Homebrew scene lately in the past 2 weeks. Some homebrew was intentionally made to brick consoles to who ever try used and sell it has theirs, it without paying for it etc. It would get bricked so hard it would be beyond repair, unless you back it up before it happens.
Yep, I think that's the case too. Just by the fact that only the right joycon is broken, because they need to insert the jig everytime they boot.
Does any chip get warm (or very hot) when the console is plugged? Look for Louis Rossmann's video where his coworker fixes an LG enV3 VX9200. The phone won't charge and there are a couple of chips that get super hot. They use a thermal camera but you can just use your fingers, a IR thermometer or something like that. Maybe you can identify if there's something iffy that way.
Well this video has almost a million views now so it probably ended up paying itself
You can replace those resistors and caps - just measure the resistors on a working board (maybe remove one at a time to check out of circuit). It's not as hard as you think! To remove a single resistors or cap like that, I would use a standard soldering iron and flux the component, heat both sides of the resistor or cap at the same time to remove it. I wouldnt use hot air to remove a single SMD resistor or cap.
'I'm going to go around with...maybe a dremel.'
me: 'PLEASE! NO! NOT WITH THE DREMEL! '
Me:omg I might unsubscribe
one of the small pringles tubs is handy for putting screws in when dismantling something and its got a plastic cap which prevents screw loss if the tub got knocked over
hey at least you got another set of joy cons and another dock. Those are pretty expensive on their own.
Xeranius WULFF DEN has a video to less exspensive ones for Switch. Yes the cons,where I am from cost more than a new game. Over $ 70.00.
The board is either a different revision, or made by a different manufacturer for Nintendo. Those resistors you're poking around, the black ones are just that, resistors. Just note- if the resistor has a little square on it, it's considered a resistor fuse.
The brown ones are ceramic capacitors. If you have a capacitance tester you can test the capacitance. Maybe the resistors and the capacitors failed closed. Which would most likely damage the chip. Those resistors should give you a resistance reading. You can easily look up the resistance by the number on the resistor. Either way, good luck!
You should try Rcm Mode. The faulty motherboard could be the new generation of switches witch dont support loading payloads through RCM Mode and that could explain why the boards are different.
Yeah
Check the diode block at the top of the mother board it's the black rectangle with the three legs it will have two diodes in it one going one direction the other going the other. Use the center pin as the reference point. On the blown board one of the diodes is probably open. Just an idea I don't know for certain that the component is defiantly a diode block or not it may be a regulator but what you are seeing sounds like an open diode.
Just to clarify, the little rectangle black component. With two pins on one side and one on the other.
Kate Temkin was able to fix that issue only with software and she even posted about it on twitter. You could probably find it
Trashdinner It breaks at FIRMWARE update... ist software problem!!! HARDWARE is sould be ok! He has no idea that is doing!
(Sory mi bad ingles)
Look into getting an Electrostatic discharge wrist strap if you work a lot with chipboards/motherboards, or really anything electronic, it's extremely easy to fry things even with a fraction of the amount of static electricity we generate. And you are on a carpeted floor which makes it easier for you to create static electricity, so be careful, and look into getting that ESD wrist strap, or if you don't want to buy one, make sure you ground yourself before touching anything, by touching something metal, like the case.
What is that device you use to show the ebay listing?
I know im late, but if its a hand-held pc, the first thing that came to mind was a GPD Micro PC, although im not sure if its the first or second version. You can even see the name at 2:00
Live, Line, Hot, Neutral, Ground and Earth are for AC feed circuits. Positive and Negative is used for DC control and power circuits.
Line (Positive Rail + or -), Input(Positive +), Output(Positive -) Latch(Rung Module) and Common(Negative) are for Ladder Logic and Logic Diagrams.
Good job in diagnosis and trying to find the faulty component....but as you said you'll take a dremel-tool to get the IC loose...i heavily cringed XD XD
Love your videos, you pave the way so we don't have to kill our own equipment and I for one appreciate it
There is nothing sexier than a man fixing things.
Also, I like your taste in watches. Metal bands last forever.
If you’re the one who helped make the switch I haven’t switch and I think it’s a really cool device you did a really good job on it
yay, NSwitch FIX video, exactly what I hoped for (the most, actually)
You should definitely try dropping a new M92T36 on those pads and replacing the caps you took off (you can get a strip of SMD caps for a few bucks). The exact value isn't super critical and you may even get away with muntzing a few of them.
150 for that was a bit much.
I have seen a used one for 180 before
TheMysteriousKnight where the hell did you see a used one with everything but the charger going for 180? I can't find a single sold listing on eBay under 200 unless it's the tablet only.
Depends on where you live. I bought a full box set Second hand Switch with 10 months official warranty back in Feb 2018 from a local store for 176 pounds (230 USD).
edit: It seems UK Ebay is exceptionally expensive compared to other countries.
i wouldn't waste a quid on this rubbish
At the end, there was no flux put on the board before applying the heat to the chip. Use the heat and fan speed pretty low to start usually more heat, less fan
Bricked due to Homebrew hack,old user attempted to install homebrew and screwed up?
It is so cool seeing the inside of a console
It's a bricked switch unfortunately... whether that's from someone using an external dock, or if its someone using a fake hack.
But I suppose you have new joycons and a new battery. And something to hold onto if the modders come up with a fix.
Akuza Gaming It's beyond repair now. He damaged the board which can't be fixed without finding replacement parts which defeats the purpose.
I don't think fake hack would be able to stop switch from charging just cause it to endlessly boot loop
I wouldnt buy IT If they didnt tried to Hack IT they could usw the warranty
Saw several videos about this problem. And I am happy i did so before i bought anything charging related from another brand.
The switch might die if you use non Nintendo equipment to charge it in any way.
What is the name of the device you used to display the eBay listing?
GPD Win
@@Alex-ie4bm Cool! Thank you!
nice attempt, and its nice to see you go till the end and not give up, try looking at head shields for the parts you don't want to heat up. Subscribed ;)
can you do a video on trying to fix a shattered light bulb?
Really
Voultar has been the best guy to watch for how to do micro soldering he, doesn't set out to really teach all that much but he shows some really good practices, and how to get hot glue and epoxy off a board.
4:08 check your views mate I think you'll change your mind
FP LOL his name is Vince
Aser Hegazy who tf doesn’t know that already?
I find this video quite interesting I just like the process of you figuring out what's wrong and how to maybe fix it !
Hey vince did you get a joycon that has joysticks that moves by itself how do you fix it
Bert 124 he has a video on it but TL;DR is you cant fix it without buying a metal release pin
7alepic im talking about the joysticks moving by its self
The household solution to that is get a q tip and toothpicks, lift up the rubber flap under the plastic tip, and try to wipe dust out of there. If you wanna be more advanced, try this with canned air. My right joystick occasionally drifts downwards. I did this and it didnt fix it, but its less severe now, so I can at least play normally.
sorry it was kind of unclear what you meant
Joycon analog stick drifting happened to me I used compressed air it fixed it
About the bit at the beginning, not knowing what you'll get and taking a chance, it reminds me of unidentified items back in Diablo 2. Once you identified it, unless you got really lucky, it was worth significantly less. These repairs seem like that, where you're better off just selling it as an unknown rather than taking the chance yourself, because everyone else is overly eager to get lucky to the point the price is past what things should average out to. It's like, it's supposed to be that there would be a profit, or at least breaking even, in buying a bunch and selling them for what they're worth, but in reality it's like stock and speculation and just highly overvalued.
Awesome video
but 160 pounds!!!!!! For a broken one😡 thats expensive
Totoro 2000 that's $210 in the United States
jonaven everts you get the joy cons and a dock which is pretty pricey
Jacob Playz tf where u live?
I got mine for 260€ in a market. Packed.
Jacob Playz 360
Solid effort was really hoping you would get it fixed. I've fixed things in the past but anything involving solder is a bit beyond me
You learned and I learned better debugging skills from watching you learn! Do you know what a resistor is, what a capacitor is, what a diode is and finally, what an inductor is? If not, learn the most basic definitions and continue to try and fix electronics. Once you know what those components do, you can think of ways to ID them, that'll help you find out what they should be doing in the circuit.
rossman repair group is the channel you need, and some decent flux!!!and plenty of it!!!
Never reuse thermal paste. Never!
Reusing paste may allow airbubbles to get stuck between the two surfaces and will result in bad heat transfer
You should clean both surfaces with isopropyl alcohol and use a coffee filter as a lint free cloth
then apply a similar amount as before of fresh thermal paste with good heat conducting abilities
Amazing how far you have come in 5 years mate. This would have been easy for you now …. Hope you still have it to fix 😊
You could buy a Switch with a broken screen and make it all work or make your money back parting it all out.