I worked in the service department at a bicycle shop for 10 years. This mirrors one technique we used for bleeding hydraulic brakes on bicycles. So simple, and it's practically impossible to introduce more air into the system.
What I do is to pressure the system to 1.5 bar and pump the clutch pedal in quick succession for 20 times with the bleeder open, pedal as firm as a rock. I actually learned this trick from VW, that’s their procedure, albeit at a higher pressure of 2 bar. Ford procedure is to pump the system to 1.5 bar and just open the bleeder without touching the pedal, they tell you to pump the pedal with the bleeder closed for five times, rinse and repeat until satisfactory. I gotta say the VW procedure is superior.
What did you use to connect the extra hose to the included hose? I've got the extractor and extra hose in my Amazon cart. But, want to be sure I can connect them securely.
Lol, guess what, I’m a mobile mechanic and I managed to bled it, what I did was to open the bleeder screw, connect a hose of the collector bottle to it, and just pump the pedal quickly for 20 times, close it up, and it worked, not as firm as the factory but still acceptable. If you want it to be as firm as the factory you need to get the correct adapter for the reservoir and pressure the system to 1.5 bars and do the same thing.
@Jesse's Garage I want to flush my brakes as well. Do you recommend doing the brakes first and start at the passenger rear then do clutch last? Also should u be doing anything with the clutch during the reverse bleed process?
Just tried both methods. Got the reverse bleed tool as well. I cant push fluid or pull a vacuum. Nothing in, nothing out. Just locked up. I'm not sure what to try next besides calling a shop. This sucks.
@@catch_themoment8391 No. Took it to Ford dealership. They told me it needs a whole clutch, slave cylinder and even a flywheel. They got all the parts installed today. Then called me to tell me they couldn't bleed it past the master cylinder. Yay. 🤦🏻♂️
@@catch_themoment8391 Apparently something with the bleeder. They got it done. But, now 2nd gear is grinding every time. This is frustrating. At least I can drive it.
What's the benefit of doing it this way? I'd rather get the old fluid pushed out from the slave rather than push old fluld up through the lines and into the reservoir and taking a turkey baster to it.
Its what the ford service book calls for. There is more that one way to skin a cat but IMO this is the best way. The slaves are already prone to popping when they are new. So to me its better to reverse bleed. Than pumping the pedal 4,000 times using two people. Plus, if you do the old school way you will have to force the pedal up multiple times to get it going. IMO this can cause the already weak point to become weaker. I think bench bleeding then the old school way would work perfect. Because you wont have that initial vacuum power when you press the pedal a little and it shoots down to the floor.
Tengo un Ford fiesta ST 2018, cambié la balibomba y la bomba del pedal, despues de cambiar todo junto a kit completo de embrague los cambios no me entran, me entran con dificultad, es esta la solución?
So with this reverse bleed, is it pushing the air out of the brake fluid bottle? And would you say reverse bleeding has the same efficiency as normal bleeding where you pump the clutch pedal and suck fluid from the nipple and replace fluid in the bottle? Thanks
@@Downstriker559 I must say I prefer reverse bleeding now for both brake and clutch, so much easier. Although not all the bottles have the screw top to attach the bleeder which is annoying
I worked in the service department at a bicycle shop for 10 years. This mirrors one technique we used for bleeding hydraulic brakes on bicycles. So simple, and it's practically impossible to introduce more air into the system.
What I do is to pressure the system to 1.5 bar and pump the clutch pedal in quick succession for 20 times with the bleeder open, pedal as firm as a rock. I actually learned this trick from VW, that’s their procedure, albeit at a higher pressure of 2 bar. Ford procedure is to pump the system to 1.5 bar and just open the bleeder without touching the pedal, they tell you to pump the pedal with the bleeder closed for five times, rinse and repeat until satisfactory. I gotta say the VW procedure is superior.
What did you use to connect the extra hose to the included hose? I've got the extractor and extra hose in my Amazon cart. But, want to be sure I can connect them securely.
Watched this video today. I work at a non-Ford dealership and we're struggling to bleed a Focus ST. Gonna try this method! Thank you!
did it work ?
Lol, guess what, I’m a mobile mechanic and I managed to bled it, what I did was to open the bleeder screw, connect a hose of the collector bottle to it, and just pump the pedal quickly for 20 times, close it up, and it worked, not as firm as the factory but still acceptable. If you want it to be as firm as the factory you need to get the correct adapter for the reservoir and pressure the system to 1.5 bars and do the same thing.
@Jesse's Garage I want to flush my brakes as well. Do you recommend doing the brakes first and start at the passenger rear then do clutch last? Also should u be doing anything with the clutch during the reverse bleed process?
can I do this where both clutch and brakes share the same reservoir?
Just tried both methods. Got the reverse bleed tool as well. I cant push fluid or pull a vacuum. Nothing in, nothing out. Just locked up. I'm not sure what to try next besides calling a shop. This sucks.
Did you get it fixed ?
@@catch_themoment8391 No. Took it to Ford dealership. They told me it needs a whole clutch, slave cylinder and even a flywheel. They got all the parts installed today. Then called me to tell me they couldn't bleed it past the master cylinder. Yay. 🤦🏻♂️
So the whole time it was the master?? Or they now have even more problems? I believe mine us the master
@@catch_themoment8391 Apparently something with the bleeder. They got it done. But, now 2nd gear is grinding every time. This is frustrating. At least I can drive it.
I'm glad to hear you got your car going ! Thank you for your quick response.. this info is helping me
Thanks for the post*
What's the benefit of doing it this way? I'd rather get the old fluid pushed out from the slave rather than push old fluld up through the lines and into the reservoir and taking a turkey baster to it.
Its what the ford service book calls for. There is more that one way to skin a cat but IMO this is the best way. The slaves are already prone to popping when they are new. So to me its better to reverse bleed. Than pumping the pedal 4,000 times using two people. Plus, if you do the old school way you will have to force the pedal up multiple times to get it going. IMO this can cause the already weak point to become weaker. I think bench bleeding then the old school way would work perfect. Because you wont have that initial vacuum power when you press the pedal a little and it shoots down to the floor.
If it did pop dose it not take in or push out anything ? Like no pressure o
Are there any negatives to reverse bleeding and just so I'm clear the car doesn't have to be on or clutch pumped to do this? Thank you!
No negatives that I know of. You are correct. The car is off and no pumping the clutch. Thanks!
Reverse bleed is the only Ford recommended method.
Tengo un Ford fiesta ST 2018, cambié la balibomba y la bomba del pedal, despues de cambiar todo junto a kit completo de embrague los cambios no me entran, me entran con dificultad, es esta la solución?
So with this reverse bleed, is it pushing the air out of the brake fluid bottle? And would you say reverse bleeding has the same efficiency as normal bleeding where you pump the clutch pedal and suck fluid from the nipple and replace fluid in the bottle? Thanks
This is actually how it's stated in Ford dealer service info on how to bleed the clutch.
@@Downstriker559 I must say I prefer reverse bleeding now for both brake and clutch, so much easier. Although not all the bottles have the screw top to attach the bleeder which is annoying
@@insertnamehere5660 Reverse is only applicable to the clutch side aha brakes still are bled the traditional way on the Fiesta
What size tubing did you use?
IIRC it is 3/16-inches by 5/16-inches.