How to adjust Fox 38 fork travel- UPDATED!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- #JeffKendallWeed #Fox38 #ChangingFox38ForkTravel
The Fox 38 is an amazing mountain bike fork, and lucky for all of us, we can configure it for many different travel lengths with a simple swap of the air shaft. The larger air shaft assembly does cost a bit more than the units used in the 36 and smaller forks, but it’s not too terribly expensive. Please note that you will need to use two types of Fox fork oil for this- both 20 wt Gold Oil and 5 wt PTFE (Teflon) infused oil.
A big thanks to Jenson USA for sponsoring this video! To adjust the travel in your Fox 38 fork, here are the affiliate links to the specific parts you’ll need:
Fox 38 air shaft in the travel length you desire: bit.ly/Fox38Ai...
Fox 20wt Gold oil: bit.ly/FoxGoldOil
Fox 5wt PTFE oil: bit.ly/FoxTefl...
Fox 32mm chamferless socket: bit.ly/FoxSocket
Slick Honey suspension lubricant: bit.ly/SlickHoney
Oil quantities:
5wt PTFE oil:
40cc in damper side lower leg
20wt Gold oil:
3cc in air spring chamber
20cc in air shaft side lower leg
Generic tools also used:
2mm hex key (to remove rebound knobs)
10mm socket (to remove the footnut of the airshaft)
15mm socket (to remove the foot nut of the damper)
Vice-grips (or similar) to yank the foot nut of the airshaft in order to remove the old airshaft assembly from the fork.
Oil drain pan (you can recycle your oil at your local auto parts store)
Small syringe
All Fox product at Jenson USA: bit.ly/FoxShoxJKW
For a limited time, my community will be able to claim a free LMNT electrolytes sample pack - you only cover the cost of shipping ($5 for US customers). Get your sample pack of LMNT electrolytes by using this link: Http://DrinkLMNT.com/Jeff
Big shout to my sponsors! Thanks to Jenson USA, PNW Components, Industry Nine, and Shimano- and any purchases from the below links to Jenson USA will help support my channel:
Jenson USA: bit.ly/JensonU...
PNW Components: bit.ly/PNW_JKW
Industry Nine: bit.ly/Industr...
Shimano: bit.ly/Shimano...
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Every time I have to research something if I see Jeff did this I usually watch it first because,
-it’s bike related
- most important video quality is great and audio I can actually hear him you know the mumblers on TH-cam.
- or the lack of volume make up yelling at the camera haha.
- he goes into depth on each part and shows each part and provides a link to the place I can buy it. It’s a one shop stop.
Professionalism, but still shows he is everyday rider budget style. Not everyone has the luxury of being sponsored racers. I’m a privateer, always have been, I also enjoy working on my bikes. I’m a millwright so it comes naturally,
Thanks for the videos.
Careful with the amount of grease on the piston tho. I had to tear my brand new 38 apart to remove the excess grease that kept it from equalizing pressure between positive and negative chamber. Rode like a very pricey pogo stick on too much grease.
I had the same issue!
Excess grease also acts like a volume reduction token.
Riding a Ripley V4 and bumped the fork to 140....love the bike bumped up!
Nicely done, Mike!
My Marin Alpine E2 came with a 160mm fox 38. It also came with a mullet rear setup. This setup makes the BB height comically too low even with the stock 165mm cranks. Scary pedal strikes are a common occurrence. Way too common, in fact they occur on flat flowy trails that aren't technical. I installed a 29" rear wheel and it helped. I'd like to raise the bb some more so I can climb some techy gnar with confidence that a pedal strike is not eminent. Thus raising the fork to a 170 or 180 should help alleviate the issue. The extra slack on climbs won't make climbing a challenge because the seat tube angle is plenty steep to weight the front end.
Thanks for the informative video.
Low bottom brackets are a cancer. It's actually a symptom of having the same static bb hight across an entire range of bikes. Basically, from xc to Enduro, they all have the same bb height. As bikes move into more travel, they also gain more sag. The fact that tiny 160 and 165mm cranks exist signals a problem. Especially if you're around 6ft tall. Long legs suffer on tiny cranks.
@@Cookie-Dough-Dynamo yep. 180mm cranks on my tech climber trailbike @ at 6'3" on an XL frame would be nice sometimes
Nice video. Good job really showing each step.
i bought a transition patrol because the Spire wasn’t available in mixed wheel size. but i wanted the 170x170. the rear shock on the the patrol is the Fox x2 and comes with a travel reducer -> simply removed and add 10mm of travel. so i’m making my front 170mm
Does removing that travel reducer simply allow the shock to sink lower? (so the bb will be lower upon compression) If so, I'd be concerned about increased pedal strikes, which are already an issue on this bike.
@@steffenlee2960 never been an issue. And I’ve ridden some hella rocky trails.
The torque spec on fox 38s is different than their other forks. Damper side is 9nm and air spring is 5.7nm, while for the other fox forks 5.7 for both sides is a safe bet.
Super thankful… Thank you so much I really appreciate it Jeff
You should come work on the rigs, they to use a crescent wrench as a hammer so I feel you could do amazing things with a stillson.
lol I've seen plumbers do some wild stuff with crescent wrenches too!
The question is if we have a Fox 38 performance elite 170mm travel and can we swap the internals of the Fox 38 Factory Kashima 150mm travel to convert the 150mm into 170mm
Bought an Ohlins RXF Evo 36 which I'd like to set to 150mm. Bro, I love your videos!
Riding a Yeti SB130, not looking to change the travel, just like your videos.
Suspension shops can cut a 180 air shaft on the piston end to 160 for a lot less money than buying a new one. It's a better way to go if reducing travel.
Sure but you can also sell your old air spring or keep it if you ever decide to go back.
Mr Kendall-weed, what are your thoughts on overforking a ripmo with a 170? I have a 160, and a 180. Thinking of setting the 180 to 170.
LOL right when I say out loud ‘Jeff get a hammer!’ He says it’s in order. 🤣
Could you please share your settings for the Fox38?
Me watching who has a Suntour XCM with 100mm of travel 👁 👄 👁
Hahaha fair enough! Run what ya brung, Saigul!
Sometimes the best fork is the one you have. I did demo a bike with a suntour in a pinch in Colorado and I think it's because the shop wasn't really that great but the fork was like a pogo stick. "Punggg!" Everytime it would rebound. 😂
Nice video, it looks easy! But ill destroy it anyways 😅
I upped my 2023 Fox38 from 170 to 180mm. I can't seem to bottom out the fork. The closest I've gotten is 25mm left on the stanchion. Fork came with two volume spacers, took one out, same. Took another out, same. Been playing with PSI and it doesnt seem to matter. Fork feels just fine I've just been trying to dial it in and can never seem to use the full travel.
You forgot to remove the inner air shaft using a shaft clamp and bullet tool to grease the O Rings on the inner air sleeve. They are not usually greased from factory.
I've read that they are often over greased. Either way might be wise to open up the air spring & clean / re-grease the air shaft?
Question, i've bought Fox 38 Factory 27.5 with FIT4 damper. The fork has 170mm of travel and i would like to swap the damper to grip2. It's a 820-18-336-KIT and it says 180mm travel. Is that going to fit for my 170mm fork?
No need to change anything with the damper side when increasing travel?
Thank you !! looking to reduce travel from 180-160 as well. What is the most notable benefit of reducing travel.I mostly use my bike for trail thx!!
Can I do it viceversa? I mean going from 160mm to a 180mm ??
You didn't check the flux capacitor. What were you thinking?
Im contemplating to upgrade my fork from 150 to 180 travel..i just feel like 150 fox 36 is mot enough for me..however the frame is only 150 travel..i think 170 fork travel is the only maximum allowed just wondering if i can up it to 180 travel
Would you recommend upping the travel for a fox 36 from 160 to 170?, for a 150 rear coil and 160 Fox 36, 2021 Specialized ST Evo, mostly used on high speed rocky descents of SoCal, not much jumping tho, thanks, love the vids as always.
I'm wanting to build a frame up Specialized Stumpjumper Carbon. I'm a bigger guy and think the fox 38 [160mm] would benefit me more than a 34 140mm or 36 at 160mm. I don't live in the NW, I'm actually in the Midwest [travel from Texas to MO]. I hesrd alot of people prefer short travel [120-140mm]. Will the 38 kill my average trail experience? Too soft, [plush]?. What are your thoughts? This is where I'm stuck.
Could I swap the air shaft from my 27.5 180 mm travel 38 with my 29 170mm travel 38 ?
Too much grease is why your airshaft was sucked in. It blocks the transfer port, and they purposely overgrease these from factory for some reason?
I need to order a crescent hammer for this job.
Hi Jeff, How did you like the Fox 38 on the Ripmo? My new Ripmo came with one, haven't had a chance to ride it yet. Seems like a great fork, do you notice the extra weight much?
Clean the forks of dried flaking mud after the rebuild if that's not Irish I don't what is 😂
Hey Jeff, cool videos. Do you mind doing an in depth video on how to adjust the Öhlens TRX Air? And what settings you recommend going downhill and settings climbing? Thanks bro
My cir-clip at the bottom of my air shaft was flush on both ends. Ended up having to use an exacto knife to pop it off, total pain. Also I’ve seen conflicting info on which oil to use for damper side foam ring. One says to use 5wt since that is what is used in that leg and others say use 20wt because it lasts longer and doesn’t really mix with the 5wt damper oil. Thoughts?
For a grip/grip2 I would soak the damper side foam ring in the 5wt and the 20wt for the spring side ring to avoid cross contamination damper side.
I work as a professional mechanic and asked fox this, they said 20wt gold for foam rings. You don’t have to worry about cross contamination because the oil from the foam rings isn’t seeping down into the lowers. The little bit that can get into the lowers when putting the new soaked foam rings in doesn’t matter. There is so much more 5wt teflon in the lower so a tiny bit mixing doesn’t matter. The whole reason there is 5wt in the damper side is to act as a back up for your grip 2 damper in case you store the bike upside down or something like that. The grip 2 damper itself has a drain hole near the top which purges excess 5wt teflon from the damper if a big hit is taken the the fork uses like 99% of its travel. When you do a grip2 damper service you have the damper filled to the top with 5wt and once the compression top is back on you cycle the damper thru 75%~ of its travel so you purge excess 5wt cause too much can damage the damper due to the pressure. So if the bike is stored upside down or is hanging with either front or back wheel vertical the damper fluid from inside the lower is there to ensure you don’t end up with to little 5wt inside your damper. There really isn’t much cross contamination from the foam rings so don’t worry. So don’t use 5wt on the foam rings use 20wt gold both sides. You risk having your damper side foam ring dry out faster than the air spring which in the worst case scenario could result in your stanchion getting scratched/scoured/ damaged. Use 20wt gold for foam rings for both sides, always.
Can you put the newer 36 air shaft with the can on an older 36?
Davide, the 36 has a totally different type of air spring assembly than the 38. However, 36 air springs have been consistent for at least the last 5 years or so.
@@JeffKendallWeed I think the latest 36 has the same concept of the 38 air spring, with the can thing in the stanchion, obviously smaller, I was wondering if one could put a newer air spring with the can on an older 36 with the piston in direct contact with the stanchion, obviously not using the 38 can I'm sure it would be too large to fit in
You should probably add a reminder to check the o ring is on the stanchion before putting the lowers back on. Some idiot (me) will definitely leave it off and have to strips the fork down again to put it back on 🤦🏻♂️
A+ Jeffrey
Thanks Bill! Can't believe I've made this mistake TWICE now in my videos, hahaha!
why not just increase the sag a little on the fork?
the allen key letting all air out at same time, DO NO DO THIS! Nice and slowly in parts with shock pump as people doing this are rocking up online about the negative air chamber being sucked to a point they need a new damper! Read 5 horror stories about it just last night same thing with adding tokens don't let all the air out at once nice and small 20psi decreases
Uhhh, 3 vol. reducers: I like to send 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂