You are a god send, only video I found with replacing just the solenoid and not taking the whole front end off. I was able to take care of my vvt solenoid. I didn’t remove the cam position sensor completely. I took out the bottoms bolt which let me rotate it enough to get the top bolt off . I then was able to pull it out of the way just enough to get to the vvt solenoid bolt. I did need pliers to pull out the solenoid and a two light hits from a soft dead blow to seat the new solenoid. I taped the bolt onto an extension to get the bolt back in as it was such a tight fit, I used a wrench to turn the bolt just enough until I could fit my 1/4 inch 10mm socket and finish tightening it. Then finished the putting the rest of the bolts. I also had to set the idle, all accessories off, key in the on position for 15 seconds, start car and let it run for 10mins, turn off for 20 seconds with key in ignition for 20 seconds, then back to on position for another 15 seconds before starting and letting run for 5 more minutes. That’s the only way I’ve found to reset my idle.
That’s great to hear im super happy you were able to complete your repair. The cam shaft position sensor can be hard to remove but with a little nudge it’ll come right out and free up that 10mm bolt that holds in the solenoid. Again I’m happy to hear that you were able to do the job with the help of my video and the fact that you also got your idle corrected is a thumbs up as well. Good luck out there
i have a 2007 Legacy Limited 2.5i Sedan and followed the instructions on this video. you are a lifesaver. the bracket holding the camshaft position sensor is a tough job but l soaked the area between the bracket and engine overnight with WD40 and used a pair of lock pliers to wiggle it out. the only downside is l need a new camshaft position sensor.
I have a '07 Legacy with the same code. I followed your video, but after I removed the two bolts around the cam position sensor, I was not able to remove the collar it sits in and therefore was unable to access the 10mm bolt for the solenoid itself. I saw another video that suggested this part isn't removable without removing a lot more. Is that a difference between the 07 and 08 or is there some trick to prying that collar loose? I tried using a screwdriver and it wouldn't budge.
It takes a lot of wiggling and prying to remove it trust me my man it’ll come loose, I used a screwdriver and my hands to get it free, just keep trying you’ll get it out
@@SlowCarRepairs Correct. What I did was place a screwdriver on the front side of it, right where your thumb is at 1:24. Then I took a hammer and gave it a couple of soft taps, like I was trying to drive the top of it straight back into the engine. It moved enough that I was able to get a socket on the solenoid bolt. Then I just pried it back into place afterwards, you'll know when it's in the right spot when you can screw that top bolt in. Thanks!
I just replaced both switch and solenoid. This was very helpful. Question is I started it up, codes are gone, but there's a little smoke coming from right below where they are. Any thoughts?
That sounds pretty normal, usually oil will spill off when replacing the solenoid because it’s submerged in oil, run the car and allow the excess oil to burn off and that should resolve your issue
You are a god send, only video I found with replacing just the solenoid and not taking the whole front end off. I was able to take care of my vvt solenoid. I didn’t remove the cam position sensor completely. I took out the bottoms bolt which let me rotate it enough to get the top bolt off . I then was able to pull it out of the way just enough to get to the vvt solenoid bolt. I did need pliers to pull out the solenoid and a two light hits from a soft dead blow to seat the new solenoid. I taped the bolt onto an extension to get the bolt back in as it was such a tight fit, I used a wrench to turn the bolt just enough until I could fit my 1/4 inch 10mm socket and finish tightening it. Then finished the putting the rest of the bolts. I also had to set the idle, all accessories off, key in the on position for 15 seconds, start car and let it run for 10mins, turn off for 20 seconds with key in ignition for 20 seconds, then back to on position for another 15 seconds before starting and letting run for 5 more minutes. That’s the only way I’ve found to reset my idle.
That’s great to hear im super happy you were able to complete your repair. The cam shaft position sensor can be hard to remove but with a little nudge it’ll come right out and free up that 10mm bolt that holds in the solenoid. Again I’m happy to hear that you were able to do the job with the help of my video and the fact that you also got your idle corrected is a thumbs up as well. Good luck out there
@@SlowCarRepairs appreciate you posting that video. Save my A$$ from following those other videos.
No problem!
I’m glad I could help out!
What a life saver, step by step instructions with an actual video of the work being done. You're the best!
Thank you, i really appreciate it! I’m glad I could help
Perfect as I have P0340 code on the camshaft monitoring sensor and videos on the 2.5 litre SOHC non turbo motors are rare.
Thanks for the info brother! Just did this on my daughter’s 2011 Outback. Help a lot!!
Glad I could help!
i have a 2007 Legacy Limited 2.5i Sedan and followed the instructions on this video. you are a lifesaver. the bracket holding the camshaft position sensor is a tough job but l soaked the area between the bracket and engine overnight with WD40 and used a pair of lock pliers to wiggle it out. the only downside is l need a new camshaft position sensor.
I’m glad I could help! And yea that sensor is a tough one to remove but nonetheless I’m glad you got it!
Thanks Man, good video
No problem man, I’m glad you found it helpful
I have a '07 Legacy with the same code. I followed your video, but after I removed the two bolts around the cam position sensor, I was not able to remove the collar it sits in and therefore was unable to access the 10mm bolt for the solenoid itself. I saw another video that suggested this part isn't removable without removing a lot more. Is that a difference between the 07 and 08 or is there some trick to prying that collar loose? I tried using a screwdriver and it wouldn't budge.
It takes a lot of wiggling and prying to remove it trust me my man it’ll come loose, I used a screwdriver and my hands to get it free, just keep trying you’ll get it out
@@SlowCarRepairs Correct. What I did was place a screwdriver on the front side of it, right where your thumb is at 1:24. Then I took a hammer and gave it a couple of soft taps, like I was trying to drive the top of it straight back into the engine. It moved enough that I was able to get a socket on the solenoid bolt. Then I just pried it back into place afterwards, you'll know when it's in the right spot when you can screw that top bolt in. Thanks!
You’re welcome I’m glad you got it!
What about cleaning out that area before installing the new solenoid.?
Won’t hurt to do so! Good input!
Did it solve the issue ? I’m having the same problem with my Subaru
Yes it solved my issue
I just replaced both switch and solenoid. This was very helpful. Question is I started it up, codes are gone, but there's a little smoke coming from right below where they are. Any thoughts?
That sounds pretty normal, usually oil will spill off when replacing the solenoid because it’s submerged in oil, run the car and allow the excess oil to burn off and that should resolve your issue
Terrific vid, thanks. Is the solenoid removal the same on the passenger (Bank #1) side?
Yes it is
Is there a difference in selenoids between bank 1 and bank 2?
Nope they both have the same part number
@@SlowCarRepairs thanks for the reply i checked myself to make sure and yes it is the same part!!
Gotcha!
Good job
Thanks
Mine says bank 2 P0028, is that driver side or passenger side?
Driver side, I believe the passenger side is p0026