Why there is play in lm8uu based linear rail , I measure the diameter of different roads all diameter is less than 8mm it's around 7.6 to 7.8 mm is it common tolorance or perfect 8mm rods are also available??
Hoi ik heb een beginners vraag. Ik heb LM16UU lagers, welke diameter buis moet ik daarvoor gebruiken? Ik heb 16mm ø geprobeerd maar de lager gaat daar heel moeilijk overheen. Enig idee hoe of wat ik moet doen? Groet Raymond
Hello there. I have a silly question for you ^_^ How were you able to arrange the metal rods (on which the bearings move) perfectly in parallel to each other?
Easy: they are mounted in exact 8mm holes in MDF wooden endpieces. Place the endpieces on top of each other and drill two holes through them using a drill stand.
Travel is pretty smooth, but I can only compare with other cheap bearings with smaller diameters. I did not feel any vibrations, I tested at really slow speeds. There's some friction, but it's not too bad, as you can see the bearing falls down on the shaft only by its own weight. Other models I tested did not do that. I got best results when I bought bearings and rods in the same online store. You should note that the weight on the bearings and shaft is low in this test, only a wooden plate with batteries.
All this stuff is from China: aliexpress.com . Search for 'GT2 pulley' for the band and pulley (motor attachment). For the other side, also one pulley mounted on a '5mm axle' in a '5mm flange bearing' in a hole in the wood. It's pretty straight-forward ;-). Just keep in mind that all bore sizes are 5mm (or whatever size of motor axle you use)
Sam Hayden In the video I used microstepping , half- and full stepping www.jangeox.be/2013/12/microstepping-with-arduino.html. In full stepping, it maxed out at 1000 pps (pulses per second - with 96 steps/rotation, that's about 600 rpm). It can go twice as fast with no load and using the slew range (start slow and speed-up), but then it's not strong. I use my own designed driver board with L293D driver chip.
Hi Jan, In my new model I m using rack and pinion mechanism,during that mechanism ,when pinion is moved in one direction the linear bush will be in complete contact with the inner shaft,but when is it moved in opposite direction only half of the shaft will be in contact with linear bush. My question is will it works when only half of the shaft is within the linear bush. Can u respond me asap
With that model in this video I don't think that will work. There is quite an amount of resistance when the inner shaft enters the linear bush, so unless you use a high trorque motor, I think this would block your mechanism. The motor in this video would not be strong enough to do that.
+Henk Schijff Het is een oud project, de exacte code heb ik niet meer. Maar dit komt in de buurt van wat ik toen deed met full stepping/microstepping : www.printplussupport.be/Motor_CNC_bipolar_microstep.ino
I have seen these bearings for dirt cheap on ebay they are the china ones. I had a quick flick around the net as I plan to build a DIY CNC but I heard that they are cheap and nasty and the bearings grind and they arent smooth. How do yours handle did you have any problems ? I do plan to lube them properly but I dont wanna waste money and time buying one linear method if it will be simpler for me to go the aluminium angle route with standard skate bearings :D
+Jtag Sheep Hi, sorry I can't help there. This video is two years old, I planned on building a small cnc but never finished the job (It's still on my long todo list ;) ) . My first impression was that they are very precise, no margin, tight fit on the rod. I bought other ones (they were all cheap Chinese) in smaller sizes, they were not as good. I was worried about the sound they make on the video , they all do that, even when lubricated. But I never bought expensive ones, so I can't compare. These ones ran very smooth in test though. I'll let you know when my cnc machine is up and running (in a year or so ;) )
Is this noise normal? My LM12UU make similar noise during movement and I thought that something is not OK with them (or with rod), but now I'm not sure. Could you give me some advices how to lubricate linear ball bearings?
I think it's normal, but I had the same concern. I tried other rods and bearings, they all sound pretty much the same. I use ball bearing grease, but don't really know if that's the right approach. It makes the bearings run smoother, but the sound remains the same.
There's no backlash when using this kind of band and pulleys, they connect directly to a stepper, no gears in this system. However, this would not work on heavy loads (the band is very rigid, but it's still a kind of "rubber band") and positioning heavy loads would not be accurate (this system would be more useful in 3d-printers, not CNC machines). Linear guide rails are more rigid (but a lot more expensive), these shafts cannot hold heavy weights because they bend down a bit, not useful for long distances and/or heavy loads. It all depends on the application: I want to make a small cnc machine for milling/drilling pcb's and I guess these should do just fine.
So I've ordered a couple of these babies from China, along with some steel rods and other stuff, want to try and make a small CNC contraption of my own :) I have another question for you, man, hope you can help. What is the best way to know the exact position of the "working unit" of the CNC on the table? At first I plan to use a ball pen to be able to draw some lines (straight or bezier curves) on paper. So how do I know in the program where exactly above the table is my pen? Do I need a webcam and image recognition processing for that, or what? Or do I add limit switches to the position of origin (0,0) and then go from there, simply counting the number of steps I've made in each direction? That's all I can think of :(
Count the number of steps for sure, limit switches are not very accurate (for my purpose: drilling in PCBs) and webcam is a bit far fetched ;) I was planning on adding buttons or a small joystick (I can read out a WII nunchuck controller easily) to move the working unit to a position and then marking it as (0,0) in the software (I plan on writing my own). In my design, I would also need to mark 2 other points far on X-axis and one far on Y-axis to know exactly how my PCB is positioned. When drawing on an empty peace of paper, that doesn't really matter ;)
Jan Adriaensen Thank you for answering! I think I'll go with limit switches, that will allow me to position approximately in the top-left corner of the sheet of paper, and I can go counting steps from there.
Максим Щербань I'm thinking of using a plastic disk with holes and a light sensor thingy from a scanner. Every time a hole spins by the sensor it will register a tick.
I was about to buy a bearing like this for linear travel as well as a small degree of rotation. The listing on McMaster Carr however states "Fixed Alignment". I don't see how a perfectly round housing can be fixed as this (P/N 60595K45) does not have any cutout for rotation prevention like some do. I only need to rotate about 30 degrees.
... copy and paste from previous comment ;-) ... All this stuff is from China: aliexpress.com . Search for 'GT2 pulley' for the band and pulley (motor attachment). For the other side, also one pulley mounted on a '5mm axle' in a '5mm flange bearing' in a hole in the wood. It's pretty straight-forward ;-). Just keep in mind that all bore sizes are 5mm (or whatever size of motor axle you use)
I bought some shafts of 5mm (just like the motor shaft) and mounted it in a ball bearing of 5mm inner diameter. The outer diameter of the ball bearing is about 10mm (I'm guessing now) so I drilled a hole of 10mm and punched the bearing in with a hammer, it's very tight. Then, I screwed the exact same pulley like the one on the motor on the new shaft.
Jan Adriaensen thanks man ,sometimes i buy stuffs on ebay then i find out they're not compatible so i prefer to ask the stupid questions instead of being dessepointed :D don't u agree ? xD
Absolutely, been there, done that. I've had that same experience lots of times, if you only see items on your screen and even doublecheck all specs, it can still go wrong. So no, that was not a stupid question at all !
Nassim so I was going to set up, try to set up, an automated way to mill the inside of a drum (stave drum shell). I basically have 2 sets of the 3/4" rod the rail shaft clamping guide supports, and the 12 mill ball bearing unit slide bushings (2 per bar) and then the square flanged cast housing. I will basically mount a small plunge router and have this travel thru the inside of the drum shell while it spins. Do you think I can just use this motor and pinion belt (??) set up? Thank you for any advice
Hardly any more expensive, just as precise, no moving parts and a lot quieter are Igus Drylin bearings, Many 3D printer modders switch to them for much quieter machine.
problem with those are tolerances ... you cannot use them without a housing and to get the right tolerance on them, they need to be pressed with a 40kg force. So if you are using them WITHOUT a housing you are using them wrong.
Mine fitted perfectly in the standard aluminium housing, tight but I'm sure I didn't have to press them in with 40kg force. As I said they are a commonly used upgrade on 3D printers.
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bedankt voor je snelle reactie ik blijf je volgen.
grt Henk.
3D Printer Linear bearings/ Sliding blocks/Shaft Brackets/ Couplings/Handles/ Engraving Machine Press Plates / Manual Screw Jacks/ Lathes Dogs/ Disc Springs/ Screws/ Nuts ...Welcome to MSM Store (Your one-stop shop)
Do these bearings need to be lubricated and if so what do you recommend?
Why there is play in lm8uu based linear rail , I measure the diameter of different roads all diameter is less than 8mm it's around 7.6 to 7.8 mm is it common tolorance or perfect 8mm rods are also available??
Hoi ik heb een beginners vraag. Ik heb LM16UU lagers, welke diameter buis moet ik daarvoor gebruiken? Ik heb 16mm ø geprobeerd maar de lager gaat daar heel moeilijk overheen. Enig idee hoe of wat ik moet doen? Groet Raymond
Hello there. I have a silly question for you ^_^ How were you able to arrange the metal rods (on which the bearings move) perfectly in parallel to each other?
Easy: they are mounted in exact 8mm holes in MDF wooden endpieces. Place the endpieces on top of each other and drill two holes through them using a drill stand.
Jan Adriaensen Thanks for answering! Somehow that is something I would have never thought of :(
How smooth is the travel? any vibrations ? can we feel any kind of vibration while the bearing is moving at low speeds? And is there fricton?.
Travel is pretty smooth, but I can only compare with other cheap bearings with smaller diameters. I did not feel any vibrations, I tested at really slow speeds. There's some friction, but it's not too bad, as you can see the bearing falls down on the shaft only by its own weight. Other models I tested did not do that. I got best results when I bought bearings and rods in the same online store. You should note that the weight on the bearings and shaft is low in this test, only a wooden plate with batteries.
Nicely done! where did you get the band and the motor attachments for it??
All this stuff is from China: aliexpress.com . Search for 'GT2 pulley' for the band and pulley (motor attachment). For the other side, also one pulley mounted on a '5mm axle' in a '5mm flange bearing' in a hole in the wood. It's pretty straight-forward ;-). Just keep in mind that all bore sizes are 5mm (or whatever size of motor axle you use)
Jan Adriaensen what kind of velocity can you get from the motor and what kind of controller did you use??
Sam Hayden In the video I used microstepping , half- and full stepping www.jangeox.be/2013/12/microstepping-with-arduino.html. In full stepping, it maxed out at 1000 pps (pulses per second - with 96 steps/rotation, that's about 600 rpm). It can go twice as fast with no load and using the slew range (start slow and speed-up), but then it's not strong. I use my own designed driver board with L293D driver chip.
Hi Jan,
In my new model I m using rack and pinion mechanism,during that mechanism ,when pinion is moved in one direction the linear bush will be in complete contact with the inner shaft,but when is it moved in opposite direction only half of the shaft will be in contact with linear bush. My question is will it works when only half of the shaft is within the linear bush. Can u respond me asap
With that model in this video I don't think that will work. There is quite an amount of resistance when the inner shaft enters the linear bush, so unless you use a high trorque motor, I think this would block your mechanism. The motor in this video would not be strong enough to do that.
Donde puedo adquirir 32 baleros lineales de este tipo?...gracias de antemano
Hoi Jan,
mag ik vragen wat voor code je gebruik ik heb je project na gebouwd maar nu nog iets om het te besturen.
graag je reactie
Groeten Henk.
+Henk Schijff Het is een oud project, de exacte code heb ik niet meer. Maar dit komt in de buurt van wat ik toen deed met full stepping/microstepping : www.printplussupport.be/Motor_CNC_bipolar_microstep.ino
I have seen these bearings for dirt cheap on ebay they are the china ones. I had a quick flick around the net as I plan to build a DIY CNC but I heard that they are cheap and nasty and the bearings grind and they arent smooth. How do yours handle did you have any problems ? I do plan to lube them properly but I dont wanna waste money and time buying one linear method if it will be simpler for me to go the aluminium angle route with standard skate bearings :D
+Jtag Sheep Hi, sorry I can't help there. This video is two years old, I planned on building a small cnc but never finished the job (It's still on my long todo list ;) ) . My first impression was that they are very precise, no margin, tight fit on the rod. I bought other ones (they were all cheap Chinese) in smaller sizes, they were not as good. I was worried about the sound they make on the video , they all do that, even when lubricated. But I never bought expensive ones, so I can't compare. These ones ran very smooth in test though. I'll let you know when my cnc machine is up and running (in a year or so ;) )
Is this noise normal? My LM12UU make similar noise during movement and I thought that something is not OK with them (or with rod), but now I'm not sure. Could you give me some advices how to lubricate linear ball bearings?
I think it's normal, but I had the same concern. I tried other rods and bearings, they all sound pretty much the same. I use ball bearing grease, but don't really know if that's the right approach. It makes the bearings run smoother, but the sound remains the same.
How much backlash is there? would this kind of system be as good as linear guide rails?
There's no backlash when using this kind of band and pulleys, they connect directly to a stepper, no gears in this system. However, this would not work on heavy loads (the band is very rigid, but it's still a kind of "rubber band") and positioning heavy loads would not be accurate (this system would be more useful in 3d-printers, not CNC machines). Linear guide rails are more rigid (but a lot more expensive), these shafts cannot hold heavy weights because they bend down a bit, not useful for long distances and/or heavy loads. It all depends on the application: I want to make a small cnc machine for milling/drilling pcb's and I guess these should do just fine.
So I've ordered a couple of these babies from China, along with some steel rods and other stuff, want to try and make a small CNC contraption of my own :) I have another question for you, man, hope you can help. What is the best way to know the exact position of the "working unit" of the CNC on the table? At first I plan to use a ball pen to be able to draw some lines (straight or bezier curves) on paper. So how do I know in the program where exactly above the table is my pen? Do I need a webcam and image recognition processing for that, or what? Or do I add limit switches to the position of origin (0,0) and then go from there, simply counting the number of steps I've made in each direction? That's all I can think of :(
Count the number of steps for sure, limit switches are not very accurate (for my purpose: drilling in PCBs) and webcam is a bit far fetched ;) I was planning on adding buttons or a small joystick (I can read out a WII nunchuck controller easily) to move the working unit to a position and then marking it as (0,0) in the software (I plan on writing my own). In my design, I would also need to mark 2 other points far on X-axis and one far on Y-axis to know exactly how my PCB is positioned. When drawing on an empty peace of paper, that doesn't really matter ;)
Jan Adriaensen Thank you for answering! I think I'll go with limit switches, that will allow me to position approximately in the top-left corner of the sheet of paper, and I can go counting steps from there.
Hey, I wanna make a CNC on my own too ? Perhapts we could help each other . Please send me email vitorsousa@poli.ufrj.br.
Thank you !
Максим Щербань I'm thinking of using a plastic disk with holes and a light sensor thingy from a scanner. Every time a hole spins by the sensor it will register a tick.
Can we use 8 mm rod in 10 mm bearing for getting such a smooth motion?
10mm bearing is too big to 8mm rod.
Do these linear bearings twist when they are on the metal pole/rod?
yes they do
I was about to buy a bearing like this for linear travel as well as a small degree of rotation. The listing on McMaster Carr however states "Fixed Alignment". I don't see how a perfectly round housing can be fixed as this (P/N 60595K45) does not have any cutout for rotation prevention like some do. I only need to rotate about 30 degrees.
@@QwikKota did it work, do these things allow free rotation?
Sir could you please tell me where to search for such belt and appropriate gears?
... copy and paste from previous comment ;-) ...
All this stuff is from China: aliexpress.com . Search for 'GT2 pulley' for the band and pulley (motor attachment). For the other side, also one pulley mounted on a '5mm axle' in a '5mm flange bearing' in a hole in the wood. It's pretty straight-forward ;-). Just keep in mind that all bore sizes are 5mm (or whatever size of motor axle you use)
Jan Adriaensen excelent...thanks a lot!
Hello.. How did you construct pulley shaft on other side of motor ?? Thanks
I bought some shafts of 5mm (just like the motor shaft) and mounted it in a ball bearing of 5mm inner diameter. The outer diameter of the ball bearing is about 10mm (I'm guessing now) so I drilled a hole of 10mm and punched the bearing in with a hammer, it's very tight. Then, I screwed the exact same pulley like the one on the motor on the new shaft.
Thank you for the details :)
I did the same thing and it worked.. Thanks again..
what size is that?
That is great.
i know it's kind of a stupid question but : if i buy a linear bearing of 8mm diameter should the aluminum tube also be 8mm of thikness ?
yep ;)
Jan Adriaensen thanks man ,sometimes i buy stuffs on ebay then i find out they're not compatible so i prefer to ask the stupid questions instead of being dessepointed :D don't u agree ? xD
Absolutely, been there, done that. I've had that same experience lots of times, if you only see items on your screen and even doublecheck all specs, it can still go wrong. So no, that was not a stupid question at all !
thanks again :)
Nassim so I was going to set up, try to set up, an automated way to mill the inside of a drum (stave drum shell). I basically have 2 sets of the 3/4" rod the rail shaft clamping guide supports, and the 12 mill ball bearing unit slide bushings (2 per bar) and then the square flanged cast housing. I will basically mount a small plunge router and have this travel thru the inside of the drum shell while it spins.
Do you think I can just use this motor and pinion belt (??) set up?
Thank you for any advice
That's so cool how I need to buy them
mmmm 00:14 - 00:16 cant stop re watching it
Que presiotiene
can this system works vertically.
i was wondering the same
Hardly any more expensive, just as precise, no moving parts and a lot quieter are Igus Drylin bearings,
Many 3D printer modders switch to them for much quieter machine.
problem with those are tolerances ... you cannot use them without a housing and to get the right tolerance on them, they need to be pressed with a 40kg force. So if you are using them WITHOUT a housing you are using them wrong.
Mine fitted perfectly in the standard aluminium housing, tight but I'm sure I didn't have to press them in with 40kg force. As I said they are a commonly used upgrade on 3D printers.
Like. Amazing
Me likey
Bhai ye mujhe jahiye he mo no de do apna