I was expecting you to clap right at the end too. I suppose the frame rate is really stable on one of those lovely Beaulieu cameras though. I'm so jealous!
I probably should have. The frame rate on that unfortunately wasn’t that stable. I changed the video length to match my clap and the click at the end when I turned the camera off. To be honest, what you are seeing in this video is an example of when you get a bad 4008. I bought a serviced one shortly after, which you can see in another video here Super8 Kodak Ektachrome 100D Footage - Beaulieu 4008 ZM2 th-cam.com/video/R--Q_oUgsnk/w-d-xo.html that shows much sharper image
@@newwinterstudios8910 The attitude in time of digital and I still do also use Super-8-Films for example Kodak 50D or 200T for stop-motion line.super8 is super GREAT 👍 We hope for more short films 🎥-That’s why thank you 😊
Yeah we need to show our support to keep the medium alive. I will continue to shoot on super 8 and 16 for as long as I can afford it and it exists I think. If Kodak finally get to releasing that new super 8 camera too, I’m sure it’ll give rise a new generation of enthusiasts. More is to come as I am just waiting on getting 400ft of 250D back from the lab.
I'm a Camera Technician - These fantastic German Zoom lenses are much sharper then your film demonstrates. 2 things : #1. Have you performed a "Flashlight Test" to check for fog/haze that forms from aging lubricants in the complex internal zoom mechanism ? - #2. It's very common for the 'Macro' slide-switch to not fully seat (dried lube causes this), which would leave the rear lens group out of its fully rested & locked position. HINT : When you slide the 'Macro' grip/lever fully up, you should hear a positive "CLICK"...
Thanks for the comment. I agree that these images don’t feel as sharp as they should. Plus I’m thinking there’s an issue with back focus, because using lower f/stop and lower focal length is really out of focus even though I think everything should be in focus. I am in the process of doing a test for that. I’ve done the flashlight test and I can see a very small amount of lens fungus. Though not in a position to affect the image visually. I’ve checked the macro filter and it does click. If I’m looking inside the lens and flick the macro lever, would you expect to see some movement inside the lens?
@@newwinterstudios8910 "not in a position to affect the image visually" - "Visually"? Well the dim viewfinder image comes from from a 'No Screen' moving up & down tiny mirror, really not capable of showing IQ issues. So yes you're correct, you won't be able to notice a significant focus error - Now critical focus can only occur when the Ground Glass is 'clicked' into place, pull the zoom to full tele and open the aperture wide-open (Pushing the large BUTTON at the lower servo quickly performs these last two functions). Still when doing all this, you're not guaranteed of seeing what the film will 'critically' record. - This complex zoom must be maintained ! "expect to see some movement inside the lens?" - Yes, you should see the ENTIRE rear lens group moving/seating with a 'snick'/click kind of noise. - The entire Macro 'exercise' should be light and fluid; not sluggish...
Fair enough, I didn't see anything move when switching to Macro. I'm almost certain this lens is defective now after what you've said. I'm having trouble with sharpness and this Macro feature. There is evidence the lens has been dropped. It wouldn't surprise me if the delicate mechanisms have been damaged.
The scene at 1.40, back focus issue, lens not adjusted to camera body, wider the zoom lens in low light the softer the image will come. Removal of the internal wratten filter requires lens to be readjusted to the camera body, as the back focus will be off. Thus, soft images in low light especially around the wide aperture range, f1. 2 - f4
Thanks. I’ve also found out that the 6-70mm lens was for the ZM4 and I have a ZM2. I’m probably going to send it away to get serviced and have the lens adjusted. But I’ve since bought a pre serviced 4008 and just posted the results from that. You can see the difference in how much clearer the image is
Great video. When you put meter on the video, did you use a light meter along with the internal meter? Are the exposure times in the manual accurate like 18fps is 1/65?
Thanks. I used an app called LUX on my iPhone for external metering. It’s not exact and can sometimes meter more for the sky as it’s not a spot meter. I used the internal one sometimes as well. The other problem with the app is that I can’t get exact exposure, so I metered to 24fps 1/80th. So it was a bit of guess work really. I want to invest in a real light meter one day, but they are expensive. When auto zooming for example, the camera has to be in auto mode, so a couple of the shots I did were completely using auto metering. I tried to note down both regardless so I could see a comparison later. Hope this helps.
Thanks so much. Glad you like it. I used on8mil to scan using their best light scan. It gives you contrast between the highlights and shadows. I didn’t have to do any extra grading on that when I got the film back.
I was expecting you to clap right at the end too. I suppose the frame rate is really stable on one of those lovely Beaulieu cameras though. I'm so jealous!
I probably should have. The frame rate on that unfortunately wasn’t that stable. I changed the video length to match my clap and the click at the end when I turned the camera off.
To be honest, what you are seeing in this video is an example of when you get a bad 4008. I bought a serviced one shortly after, which you can see in another video here Super8 Kodak Ektachrome 100D Footage - Beaulieu 4008 ZM2
th-cam.com/video/R--Q_oUgsnk/w-d-xo.html that shows much sharper image
really great stuff!
Thanks
Thank you.
You’re welcome. What did you find useful about the video?
@@newwinterstudios8910 The attitude in time of digital and I still do also use Super-8-Films for example Kodak 50D or 200T for stop-motion line.super8 is super GREAT 👍 We hope for more short films 🎥-That’s why thank you 😊
and other reason is that we’re not by far alone and that’s goooooood.🎥🎞🎬🤪😊🥴🥁🥁😂😂
Yeah we need to show our support to keep the medium alive. I will continue to shoot on super 8 and 16 for as long as I can afford it and it exists I think. If Kodak finally get to releasing that new super 8 camera too, I’m sure it’ll give rise a new generation of enthusiasts.
More is to come as I am just waiting on getting 400ft of 250D back from the lab.
@@newwinterstudios8910 Black/white 250D?Ahh okay is an 16mm film.
I'm a Camera Technician - These fantastic German Zoom lenses are much sharper then your film demonstrates. 2 things : #1. Have you performed a "Flashlight Test" to check for fog/haze that forms from aging lubricants in the complex internal zoom mechanism ? - #2. It's very common for the 'Macro' slide-switch to not fully seat (dried lube causes this), which would leave the rear lens group out of its fully rested & locked position.
HINT : When you slide the 'Macro' grip/lever fully up, you should hear a positive "CLICK"...
Thanks for the comment. I agree that these images don’t feel as sharp as they should. Plus I’m thinking there’s an issue with back focus, because using lower f/stop and lower focal length is really out of focus even though I think everything should be in focus. I am in the process of doing a test for that.
I’ve done the flashlight test and I can see a very small amount of lens fungus. Though not in a position to affect the image visually. I’ve checked the macro filter and it does click. If I’m looking inside the lens and flick the macro lever, would you expect to see some movement inside the lens?
@@newwinterstudios8910 "not in a position to affect the image visually" - "Visually"? Well the dim viewfinder image comes from from a 'No Screen' moving up & down tiny mirror, really not capable of showing IQ issues. So yes you're correct, you won't be able to notice a significant focus error - Now critical focus can only occur when the Ground Glass is 'clicked' into place, pull the zoom to full tele and open the aperture wide-open (Pushing the large BUTTON at the lower servo quickly performs these last two functions). Still when doing all this, you're not guaranteed of seeing what the film will 'critically' record. - This complex zoom must be maintained !
"expect to see some movement inside the lens?" - Yes, you should see the ENTIRE rear lens group moving/seating with a 'snick'/click kind of noise. - The entire Macro 'exercise' should be light and fluid; not sluggish...
Fair enough, I didn't see anything move when switching to Macro. I'm almost certain this lens is defective now after what you've said. I'm having trouble with sharpness and this Macro feature. There is evidence the lens has been dropped. It wouldn't surprise me if the delicate mechanisms have been damaged.
The scene at 1.40, back focus issue, lens not adjusted to camera body, wider the zoom lens in low light the softer the image will come. Removal of the internal wratten filter requires lens to be readjusted to the camera body, as the back focus will be off. Thus, soft images in low light especially around the wide aperture range, f1. 2 - f4
Thanks. I’ve also found out that the 6-70mm lens was for the ZM4 and I have a ZM2. I’m probably going to send it away to get serviced and have the lens adjusted. But I’ve since bought a pre serviced 4008 and just posted the results from that. You can see the difference in how much clearer the image is
Does this camera have a crystal sync motor?
Hi, no it does not. I believe you can get them, but they are rare and expensive.
Great video. When you put meter on the video, did you use a light meter along with the internal meter? Are the exposure times in the manual accurate like 18fps is 1/65?
Thanks. I used an app called LUX on my iPhone for external metering. It’s not exact and can sometimes meter more for the sky as it’s not a spot meter. I used the internal one sometimes as well. The other problem with the app is that I can’t get exact exposure, so I metered to 24fps 1/80th. So it was a bit of guess work really. I want to invest in a real light meter one day, but they are expensive. When auto zooming for example, the camera has to be in auto mode, so a couple of the shots I did were completely using auto metering.
I tried to note down both regardless so I could see a comparison later.
Hope this helps.
Hi, I was just wondering where did you get your film developed? It is so beautiful!
Thanks so much. Glad you like it. I used on8mil to scan using their best light scan. It gives you contrast between the highlights and shadows. I didn’t have to do any extra grading on that when I got the film back.
Thanks for this. I was wondering what the quality of the Beaulieu 4008 was like
Glad I could help!
Bad focusing.
Yeah, either the back focus is out or the lens is defective