I meant to add foam/cloth to the part that touches the screen THE ENTIRE TIME, but somehow forgot, in the midst of finishing up the video. I'll definitely be adding that (as well as to all of the ones that I print and sell 👍🏼)
i think i would avoid that by making it the entire height of the screen so the bottom of it touches the bottom bezel not the screen. just avoid risking scratching your screen entirely. I think if i was to make my ideal version i'd have a hook on the top and bottom with wheels that hold it in place, like on a 3d printer rail, and have it slide along the monitor, so you store it at the side. 3d printed bearings would be more than sufficient for the wheels. though that design may require adding a sort of docking rail on the very edge of the monitor.
As an engineer, I always really appreciate when you talk about design criteria before you start making things. As a child of the 90s, this whole video gave me some real Bill Nye the Science Guy vibes...and I'm okay with that.
i wanted to make a comment about the same thing. not scratching the screen would be a bigger deal to me than making it fit on the back side of the screen.
Excellent video. As an engineer I love how you walk through the thought process and showing people the different design criteria, what works, what doesn't. I was coming up with different solutions to some of your problems. One thing after many years of being on projects with people, there's more than one solution to a problem and as long as it's a good solution that meets all the criteria, it doesn't matter which one was chosen.
When you first were talking about your issue, it made me remember a project that DIY Perks did with a one way mirror so the camera was using your reflection off the mirror while the backlit screen was viewable from beyond the mirror
I love the notch solution to the height adjustment! Brilliant. Oh and thanks for inspiring me to start 3d modeling with Fusion 360, I've been at it for 6 months and I'm fairly comfortable now and having a blast! I just designed a new keyfob for my extremely old car fob from 2003 that is falling apart, the possibilities are endless with 3d printers.
People use teleprompters, like the Voxcast. Matt on DIY Perks made something like a teleprompter enclosure, but added a two-way mirror, and a webcam so he could maintain eye contact.
@@schwuzi It depends on the material and technique used. But in my opinion, 3D printing isn't the solution for everything, polycarbonate is probably better. You don't need the adjustment notches.
Love this. I have the ILTMS fusion course and probably watch it 1-2 times a year to dust off my skills. I get something new out of it each and every time. Bob and team, I can't express enough how inspiring your content is. Thank you!
DUDE! I can hardy wait to play more with my printer. I took your course Fusion for Makers and loved it. I played with PLA and now I have some PETG that I am trying to learn and navigate. Definitely not the same material to work with. I love making things and my initial reason for my printer was to make stuff for my wood/maker space much like yourself. Thank you for sharing everything that you do!
Bob, I've been watching you since 2017 and i just turned 25 this year. To this day you are my favorite overthinker (in the best way) in the maker community, I've loved watching your growth as a maker and a person since i subbed. Great video as always. P.S. If I'm not mistaken, i believe saw an ODST helmet in the background of a video recently. What's up with that because I'd totally love to see you do some halo projects. I'd also love to see you make a life sized C-3PO for R2 some day.
Laser cut the side profile into 3/16th Acrylic or Polycarbonate so you have two thin lines that are mostly clear. so it blocks far less of the screen, slot the top into a much wider triangle shape for stability. Small strip of felt on the back to protect the screen... That is *if* you choose this method and look around the camera, rather than doing a reverse teleprompter method with the camera pointing up and a lightweight black shroud over the top to only reflect the light from your face down into the camera so it allows you to fully see the person you are speaking to. one problem, multiple solutions...
Really nice. To make it even better, I would make the top part that leans on the monitor quite a bit wider, and the part that is in front of the screen a lot narrower, or put a long vertical hole in it so you can see more of the screen (and save on filament). And maybe print it in transparent (or rather translucent) to make it disappear even more.
Props on listing criteria. This is always the best way to start a project you actually complete. The hinge idea could work, but it's something you have to already know how to design to get the idea - a drop lock. In short, the pin has a clearance on the base side and can move up or down. In the upper position the hinge works normally, while dropped it locks the arm into straight position using a vertical protrusion hooking into camera base. This way it will always lock under its own weight, but when lifted it will bend as you want. You can even add a light spring below the pin (leaf spring for best result) so it will default to hinge mode.
Instead of using pins I really like to use pieces of filament in my hinges. You can leave them removable or cut them a little longer than they should and heat the end to mushroom the plastic and prevent it from sliding out.
I had the same issue, ended up putting on a logitech connect speaker (which looks like a big pole), then having it to the side (at eye level), then having the video on the side of the monitor. Works well without having to move anything around ❤
Clip on top of monitor with 2 knobs on top. Cam holder with holes to rest on knobs. Wire/strong thread to hang holder from knobs, adjust height by wrapping around knobs. Thin arms/legs on back of holder with foam feet for non-marking stability against screen.
Have you thought about using filament off cuts instead of the pins/nails? Saw it used on other projects, makes the entire thing entirely printer friendly by making the holes 1.75mm :)
A great design! You can make a few additions. 01. Maybe some cable clips on either of the sides to clip the cable onto so it runs parallel sticking to the main beam of the stand. 02. Some padding on the parts that touch the screen to prevent scratches or accidental damage to the monitor panel. Love your channel
Some suggestions - You can make the top part only wide and prevent wobbling, and can keep the centre part thinner. - also print the new thinner centre part in clear pla , so you can see the what's happening on the screen.
That's pretty good! I use my phone as a webcam, so I just printed two little hooks that hold the phone with the camera at the height of the top edge of the monitor (which is where my eye line is). That wouldn't work for your setup with the dedicated webcam, though.
Really nice and simple design! If I may, one enhancement I'd make is to not have the up/down slot through-all but blind from each side. This would give a ridge that connects the back and front together and reduce flex even more. Only downside is you need to use two pins instead of one
I was thinking early in the video about making it in the center of the mount like you eventually went with. But I was thinking of doing the back part out of transparent petg so even in place it doesn't miss out on screen real estate. Also, I am thinking doing it so the back has multiple hinges and gets out of the way like a cable chain. And first of all my idea was taking the webcam out of the case and making a new one that works better for your use case is kinda a no brainer if you're already going to make all this. Maybe even make it gopro mounting compatible too. There's a load of other approaches I would've gone with before this design even occured to me. Good video, it really gets your thought process out in an interesting way.
I've seen lots of comments about foam or felt on the back of it to prevent scratching. I would recommend a lens cleaning cloth material, OR to maximize stability, little rubber feet
My answer would have been a linear slide mounted to the shelf above the monitor. The arm that descends could be made out of transparent perspex so as to not hide a chunk of the screen, or a metal rod that minimizes occlusion. Either way, it _never_ comes in contact with the monitor, or risks falling down the back of the monitor.
I think one of your best videos in a long time. I like how you show all the different trials and errors as you go through the process. I wonder if you could print it in a clear plastic then you can see through onto the screen. But the black matches very well. Look forward to your next video.
DIY Perks has a sollution for that you could have used the ellescopic radio antenna for the hook hight adjustment. the antennas hinge is firm enough to remove the problem of tilt down
I use a flexible arm that has a 1/4 screw to attach the camera and it is fixed to the edge of the desk. I position it in front of the monitor when I needed and move it away when not
Suggestion for a possible improvement: at the top of the hook, add a small cylinder with a split down one side so that the cable for the camera can go through that, so it isn't draped off to one side?
Here's another learning for you Bob. Always cut up your model in your slicer so you print the least amount of it required to test it. The hinge would have been a good candidate among others. That way, you don't waste as much filament and print time.
**Silly question alert** With all the prints and re-prints, what do you do with the "failed" iterations? Do you recycle the scraps, or is there a way to re-use them? I'm new to 3D printing... as you can probably tell.
put small pice of foam on the back at the bottom so it doesn't scratch the monitor...and should be checked after prolonged use to determine if it leaves any marks on the screen due to pressure.
I wonder if stopping the print to inset the fabric would tie it in enough to hold it. Didn't wait to comment. OK. So now I watched to the end. It's a really nice solution. I wonder if the new wider design could be U-shaped to allow for more screen to show. Either way great solution to a common problem. Nicely done.
Is there some sort of collapsible parallelogram linkage design that can tighten up like an articulating machining indicator arm that could work here. My other thought is that you can find can find the height of the monitor and the height for the webcam and print a solution that works for that configuration; I don't adjust or change out my monitor that often.
I really like the stand, but from the thumbnail of the video, I thought it was showing a light in the stand! Maybe “Adjustable Stand PLUS” would have a diffused light in the ledge the camera sits on (with cable management through the vertical height piece) 😮😃
For the space program NASA built a special set of hinged ladders that allowed the camera to move up or down, as well as be put in the original space by sliding away the contraption. The Soviet space program built a seat booster. Joking of course, interesting design. I've built something similar out of Lego for my setup.
using the original mount as a base, you could have attached the back of the base to the screen better and designed a hinge with two equally long pices of spacers that fold back when not used but fold forward when you pull on the camera down to your level
The slot and pin aren't entirely necessary. You could remove the pin and create an I beam or T for stiffening. You could also quickly slide the camera off and mount onto another rail somewhere
what would be wrong with running transparent nylon fishing line to the forward facing ends of the base piece to stop the from dropping while the back is supported against the monitor? just add a piece to hook it into on top, done.
Did you consider using a Peppers Ghost mechanism so the camera can stay on top of the monitor and not interfere with the image on screen? Would be a great solution for zoom meetings etc - if you can make it work!
Do you think you could do a video on 3d printers, filament types, CAD programmes etc? I really want to get into it all but haven't got a clue where to start? Great videos, supporting you from the UK 👌
I just started printing from my 3d printer, I sometimes need to print 3x to get the dimensions I want, I kinda have a lot of old prints and want to recycle them, the store bought filament recycler is kinda pricey and the diy version in yt is not up to my liking, do you have your own filament extruder?
I’ve asked this question before about your Fusion 360 course but no one seems to want to answer it: How is the course material actual delivered? Can the entire course be downloaded as a package that the user can then view on their own computer or other device without a constant internet connection? Or is there course material streamed requiring a constant internet connection and a separate user account with its own login and password? The first method would be suitable for my use but the second method would not suit me as I really don’t want yet another online account with its own login and password. I’m not even interested in setting up a new account for any online reseller these days to make even the smallest purchase. Give me a ‘guest checkout’ option or count me out. Just my personal preference. YMMV. Regards and thanks for all the information you provide here on TH-cam and on podcasts.
I remember having a job interview on Microsoft Teams & the interviewer complained about my camera not directly facing me because it was on top of my monitor lol
All good fun, but why not get one of these age old telescopic hinge/ spring desk lamp mechanisms to move that camera anywhere you want? Cheap, easy, simple, reliable. There when you need it, gone when you want it to. Anytime in any direction.
Ok so I like where you’re going BUT a lot of people don’t have the giant screen that you have and it’s pretty blocky. I’m thinking of using two mount points at the top and one on the bottom. Then connect them to a floating shelf using thin filaments. (Fishing wire)
Just put the cam on the table = ) There is a lot of room under the monitor. Great video for those, who want to understand what is it to create a 3d print. Would not recommend cloud app though. Today it works, and tomorrow they will limit your account to 0 models or even block it in you location, for reasons... = ) Also I tried onshape and did not understand a thing. And in many videos they say that it is easy and such. I prefer Blender, it is opensource and it can edit raw STLs which is cool. FreeCAD is improving right now, I still could not figure out how to use it though. It is just like onshape for me. Even openSCAD is more easy to use for me. = )) Also I saw a lot of bad stls, which were created in some CADs, I guess it is like HTML, you better write it in a text editor than in a text processor. = ))
I would have taped some sort of fabric to the back of this so when it touches the monitor it would be soft and not plastic. Lower the chance to scratch the monitor.
generating a whole prototype worth of additional plastic waste that you know won't even work instead of just filing down the version in your hands is peak 3d printing TH-cam lmao
How about using the nail for that little insert instead? That way it stays perfectly in the gaps and you can still take it out to move it to another slot? I wonder if Bob tried that?
I meant to add foam/cloth to the part that touches the screen THE ENTIRE TIME, but somehow forgot, in the midst of finishing up the video. I'll definitely be adding that (as well as to all of the ones that I print and sell 👍🏼)
If you mentioned what camera you have I missed it. So what model is it? I want that too!!
i think i would avoid that by making it the entire height of the screen so the bottom of it touches the bottom bezel not the screen. just avoid risking scratching your screen entirely.
I think if i was to make my ideal version i'd have a hook on the top and bottom with wheels that hold it in place, like on a 3d printer rail, and have it slide along the monitor, so you store it at the side. 3d printed bearings would be more than sufficient for the wheels. though that design may require adding a sort of docking rail on the very edge of the monitor.
I was going to cry for your monitor. I'm glad you spotted it
I was going to mention it. Easy thing to add though.
For your lightsaber build do you have your 3d model for your handle so I can print it?
As an engineer, I always really appreciate when you talk about design criteria before you start making things. As a child of the 90s, this whole video gave me some real Bill Nye the Science Guy vibes...and I'm okay with that.
Small tab of foam on the back at the bottom so as to not scratch the screen
i wanted to make a comment about the same thing. not scratching the screen would be a bigger deal to me than making it fit on the back side of the screen.
I was thinking exactly the same thing! Great minds think alike! 🤔👍
I can provide you with the perfect dimensions at which to cut that small 1" tab of foam, for a modest fee.
Wait, did I just...
or a piece of felt would be nice
PLA is probably softer than the screen, so scratches are probably not a problem at all.
You gotta put a piece of felt on the back so it doesn't scratch the monitor. Other than that, excellent design!!
Excellent video. As an engineer I love how you walk through the thought process and showing people the different design criteria, what works, what doesn't.
I was coming up with different solutions to some of your problems. One thing after many years of being on projects with people, there's more than one solution to a problem and as long as it's a good solution that meets all the criteria, it doesn't matter which one was chosen.
When you first were talking about your issue, it made me remember a project that DIY Perks did with a one way mirror so the camera was using your reflection off the mirror while the backlit screen was viewable from beyond the mirror
I came to the comments just to talk about that DIY Perks video.
I love the notch solution to the height adjustment! Brilliant. Oh and thanks for inspiring me to start 3d modeling with Fusion 360, I've been at it for 6 months and I'm fairly comfortable now and having a blast! I just designed a new keyfob for my extremely old car fob from 2003 that is falling apart, the possibilities are endless with 3d printers.
I used to use 2 little mirrors. That worked quite well for me.
People use teleprompters, like the Voxcast.
Matt on DIY Perks made something like a teleprompter enclosure, but added a two-way mirror, and a webcam so he could maintain eye contact.
Small suggestion: print it in clear filament and finish with a clear coat
It will never be really clear though.
@@schwuzi It depends on the material and technique used.
But in my opinion, 3D printing isn't the solution for everything, polycarbonate is probably better. You don't need the adjustment notches.
@@IIARROWS I've got PC filament 😂
@@schwuzi I mean sheets.
@@IIARROWS I know
Love this. I have the ILTMS fusion course and probably watch it 1-2 times a year to dust off my skills. I get something new out of it each and every time. Bob and team, I can't express enough how inspiring your content is. Thank you!
DUDE!
I can hardy wait to play more with my printer. I took your course Fusion for Makers and loved it. I played with PLA and now I have some PETG that I am trying to learn and navigate. Definitely not the same material to work with. I love making things and my initial reason for my printer was to make stuff for my wood/maker space much like yourself. Thank you for sharing everything that you do!
Bob, I've been watching you since 2017 and i just turned 25 this year. To this day you are my favorite overthinker (in the best way) in the maker community, I've loved watching your growth as a maker and a person since i subbed. Great video as always.
P.S. If I'm not mistaken, i believe saw an ODST helmet in the background of a video recently. What's up with that because I'd totally love to see you do some halo projects.
I'd also love to see you make a life sized C-3PO for R2 some day.
You have no idea how long I’ve battled this issue…like almost a decade. I can’t believe how quickly I ordered this! Long time watcher…Thank you!
Laser cut the side profile into 3/16th Acrylic or Polycarbonate so you have two thin lines that are mostly clear. so it blocks far less of the screen, slot the top into a much wider triangle shape for stability. Small strip of felt on the back to protect the screen... That is *if* you choose this method and look around the camera, rather than doing a reverse teleprompter method with the camera pointing up and a lightweight black shroud over the top to only reflect the light from your face down into the camera so it allows you to fully see the person you are speaking to. one problem, multiple solutions...
Really nice. To make it even better, I would make the top part that leans on the monitor quite a bit wider, and the part that is in front of the screen a lot narrower, or put a long vertical hole in it so you can see more of the screen (and save on filament). And maybe print it in transparent (or rather translucent) to make it disappear even more.
It is appreciated that you show the iteration process. That way, people can avoid asking why you didn't do it a certain way.
Props on listing criteria. This is always the best way to start a project you actually complete.
The hinge idea could work, but it's something you have to already know how to design to get the idea - a drop lock. In short, the pin has a clearance on the base side and can move up or down. In the upper position the hinge works normally, while dropped it locks the arm into straight position using a vertical protrusion hooking into camera base. This way it will always lock under its own weight, but when lifted it will bend as you want. You can even add a light spring below the pin (leaf spring for best result) so it will default to hinge mode.
Instead of using pins I really like to use pieces of filament in my hinges. You can leave them removable or cut them a little longer than they should and heat the end to mushroom the plastic and prevent it from sliding out.
I had the same issue, ended up putting on a logitech connect speaker (which looks like a big pole), then having it to the side (at eye level), then having the video on the side of the monitor. Works well without having to move anything around ❤
Clip on top of monitor with 2 knobs on top.
Cam holder with holes to rest on knobs.
Wire/strong thread to hang holder from knobs, adjust height by wrapping around knobs.
Thin arms/legs on back of holder with foam feet for non-marking stability against screen.
Have you thought about using filament off cuts instead of the pins/nails? Saw it used on other projects, makes the entire thing entirely printer friendly by making the holes 1.75mm :)
What camera do you use?
My thoughts
A great design! You can make a few additions.
01. Maybe some cable clips on either of the sides to clip the cable onto so it runs parallel sticking to the main beam of the stand.
02. Some padding on the parts that touch the screen to prevent scratches or accidental damage to the monitor panel.
Love your channel
Great to see the process. I found that I learn more from what doesn't work, than what does
I believe this is an Edison quote "I haven't failed 10'000 times, I have successfully found 10'000 ways it doesn't work"
Some suggestions
- You can make the top part only wide and prevent wobbling, and can keep the centre part thinner.
- also print the new thinner centre part in clear pla , so you can see the what's happening on the screen.
That's pretty good! I use my phone as a webcam, so I just printed two little hooks that hold the phone with the camera at the height of the top edge of the monitor (which is where my eye line is). That wouldn't work for your setup with the dedicated webcam, though.
Really nice and simple design! If I may, one enhancement I'd make is to not have the up/down slot through-all but blind from each side. This would give a ridge that connects the back and front together and reduce flex even more. Only downside is you need to use two pins instead of one
The best simple solution for most people, is 2 monitors with a small gap for the camera or the cameras small arm.
This channel is outstanding. Love the work you are doing to make solving problems approachable. Keep up the great work!
I was thinking early in the video about making it in the center of the mount like you eventually went with. But I was thinking of doing the back part out of transparent petg so even in place it doesn't miss out on screen real estate. Also, I am thinking doing it so the back has multiple hinges and gets out of the way like a cable chain. And first of all my idea was taking the webcam out of the case and making a new one that works better for your use case is kinda a no brainer if you're already going to make all this. Maybe even make it gopro mounting compatible too. There's a load of other approaches I would've gone with before this design even occured to me. Good video, it really gets your thought process out in an interesting way.
I've seen lots of comments about foam or felt on the back of it to prevent scratching. I would recommend a lens cleaning cloth material, OR to maximize stability, little rubber feet
Excellent problem solving demonstration. One of the biggest reasons I enjoy so much watching your videos. Thanks!
My answer would have been a linear slide mounted to the shelf above the monitor. The arm that descends could be made out of transparent perspex so as to not hide a chunk of the screen, or a metal rod that minimizes occlusion. Either way, it _never_ comes in contact with the monitor, or risks falling down the back of the monitor.
With all the digital gizmos and computer stuff ... that Sovtek head and Fender combo amp warms my heart.
Great idea, Imma try that.
I think one of your best videos in a long time. I like how you show all the different trials and errors as you go through the process. I wonder if you could print it in a clear plastic then you can see through onto the screen. But the black matches very well. Look forward to your next video.
DIY Perks has a sollution for that
you could have used the ellescopic radio antenna for the hook hight adjustment. the antennas hinge is firm enough to remove the problem of tilt down
I love to see the entire development process. Job well done!
From the thumbnail, it looked like you added an led to the front.
I really like these "problem solving" videos as they show the way your mind works. Great video.
I love videos like this where we get to see every version and troubleshooting until we see the final product!
As long as you don't need to read anything on that display as much of it will be covered by plastic and a camera and it's cable.
I hope the pressure from the camera won't damage or scratch your monitor in the future. I would add something soft on the back side just in case
I use a flexible arm that has a 1/4 screw to attach the camera and it is fixed to the edge of the desk. I position it in front of the monitor when I needed and move it away when not
Perfect example of the iterative process of product design. Never assume its going to work straight away
This is a very smart and pretty solution. Thanks for taking us through your process.
Always appreciate the way you share your process. Thank you!
Suggestion for a possible improvement: at the top of the hook, add a small cylinder with a split down one side so that the cable for the camera can go through that, so it isn't draped off to one side?
Brilliant work, Bob! Really well done!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Only if Bob can design something to get his land cruiser back!
Wait, what happened to his land cruiser?
@@LupeBarba the white one? who knows at this point
Here's another learning for you Bob. Always cut up your model in your slicer so you print the least amount of it required to test it. The hinge would have been a good candidate among others. That way, you don't waste as much filament and print time.
I love seeing the iterations in your design!
**Silly question alert** With all the prints and re-prints, what do you do with the "failed" iterations? Do you recycle the scraps, or is there a way to re-use them? I'm new to 3D printing... as you can probably tell.
Sweet! now I can cover a non insignificant portion of my screen with my webcam! Just what I've always wanted.
put small pice of foam on the back at the bottom so it doesn't scratch the monitor...and should be checked after prolonged use to determine if it leaves any marks on the screen due to pressure.
I wonder if stopping the print to inset the fabric would tie it in enough to hold it. Didn't wait to comment. OK. So now I watched to the end. It's a really nice solution. I wonder if the new wider design could be U-shaped to allow for more screen to show. Either way great solution to a common problem. Nicely done.
What did you do to the final piece to avoid screen scratching. I don’t think you mentioned it at the end.
Love this. Could you adapt the hangar part to be acrylic, so you can see thru it to an extent?
Is there some sort of collapsible parallelogram linkage design that can tighten up like an articulating machining indicator arm that could work here. My other thought is that you can find can find the height of the monitor and the height for the webcam and print a solution that works for that configuration; I don't adjust or change out my monitor that often.
maybe the pin in the long sliding hole should be as to short pins and a wall in the middle to get a realy good stability
I really like the stand, but from the thumbnail of the video, I thought it was showing a light in the stand! Maybe “Adjustable Stand PLUS” would have a diffused light in the ledge the camera sits on (with cable management through the vertical height piece) 😮😃
Perfect timing, I was looking for something like this.
For the space program NASA built a special set of hinged ladders that allowed the camera to move up or down, as well as be put in the original space by sliding away the contraption. The Soviet space program built a seat booster.
Joking of course, interesting design. I've built something similar out of Lego for my setup.
This is awesome! Good work dude 👍 Hey can you tell me, what's the make and model of your keyboard on your desk? I really like it.
It looks like the same “Apple Magic Keyboard with Touch ID and Numeric Keypad” that most folks buy along with their Macs.
@justinmorgan7851 oh yuk! Does he use a Mac? 😞
Slick mount, I mounted my webcams to a 18" small-rig setup and can just move it wherever I want.
looks sweet! I would add a felt pad on the bar so the bottom dosent scrach the epic screen of yours.
using the original mount as a base, you could have attached the back of the base to the screen better and designed a hinge with two equally long pices of spacers that fold back when not used but fold forward when you pull on the camera down to your level
Nicely done! I really think at this point monitors should have tiny cameras embedded in them. If phones can do it monitors certainly could.
The slot and pin aren't entirely necessary. You could remove the pin and create an I beam or T for stiffening. You could also quickly slide the camera off and mount onto another rail somewhere
what would be wrong with running transparent nylon fishing line to the forward facing ends of the base piece to stop the from dropping while the back is supported against the monitor? just add a piece to hook it into on top, done.
10:35 maybe 10:40, he basically went from a slot system to a French cleat, which is pretty efficient.
Did you consider using a Peppers Ghost mechanism so the camera can stay on top of the monitor and not interfere with the image on screen? Would be a great solution for zoom meetings etc - if you can make it work!
Do you think you could do a video on 3d printers, filament types, CAD programmes etc? I really want to get into it all but haven't got a clue where to start? Great videos, supporting you from the UK 👌
Maybe add a piece of felt to go on the bottom of the mount where it touches the screen?
DIY Perk has already solved this problem, you should see his video. Yours is more day to day practical but it won't work for calls and stuff like that
I think that coming up with your own solution is the fun part, of solving a problem.
Awesome to see the process
I just started printing from my 3d printer, I sometimes need to print 3x to get the dimensions I want, I kinda have a lot of old prints and want to recycle them, the store bought filament recycler is kinda pricey and the diy version in yt is not up to my liking, do you have your own filament extruder?
Cool,
Hmm second hinge is it really needed?
What happens to all the prototypes? Is that plastic recyclable?
What model of web camera is that?
This was fantastic! Thank you!!!
I’ve asked this question before about your Fusion 360 course but no one seems to want to answer it: How is the course material actual delivered?
Can the entire course be downloaded as a package that the user can then view on their own computer or other device without a constant internet connection?
Or is there course material streamed requiring a constant internet connection and a separate user account with its own login and password?
The first method would be suitable for my use but the second method would not suit me as I really don’t want yet another online account with its own login and password. I’m not even interested in setting up a new account for any online reseller these days to make even the smallest purchase. Give me a ‘guest checkout’ option or count me out. Just my personal preference. YMMV.
Regards and thanks for all the information you provide here on TH-cam and on podcasts.
I remember having a job interview on Microsoft Teams & the interviewer complained about my camera not directly facing me because it was on top of my monitor lol
For everyone wondering, the camera is an Insta360 Link 2
Well done. Enjoyed it.
All good fun, but why not get one of these age old telescopic hinge/ spring desk lamp mechanisms to move that camera anywhere you want? Cheap, easy, simple, reliable. There when you need it, gone when you want it to. Anytime in any direction.
Put a couple of cabinet glue dots on the back to prevent it scratching the screen.
Ok so I like where you’re going BUT a lot of people don’t have the giant screen that you have and it’s pretty blocky.
I’m thinking of using two mount points at the top and one on the bottom. Then connect them to a floating shelf using thin filaments. (Fishing wire)
I wish more makers did videos on the struggle process rather than just showing the best idea as is it was thier first.
Great video Bob! I wonder what it would be like with transparent resin for the notched piece.
Just put the cam on the table = )
There is a lot of room under the monitor.
Great video for those, who want to understand what is it to create a 3d print. Would not recommend cloud app though. Today it works, and tomorrow they will limit your account to 0 models or even block it in you location, for reasons... = ) Also I tried onshape and did not understand a thing. And in many videos they say that it is easy and such.
I prefer Blender, it is opensource and it can edit raw STLs which is cool. FreeCAD is improving right now, I still could not figure out how to use it though. It is just like onshape for me. Even openSCAD is more easy to use for me. = ))
Also I saw a lot of bad stls, which were created in some CADs, I guess it is like HTML, you better write it in a text editor than in a text processor. = ))
I would have taped some sort of fabric to the back of this so when it touches the monitor it would be soft and not plastic. Lower the chance to scratch the monitor.
A piece of stick on felt (Michael’s or Hobby Lobby are sources) will provide some more scratch protection. Love this build!
Rather than using the nail as your hinge pivot point why not also print the hinge pin or just use a small piece of filament?
generating a whole prototype worth of additional plastic waste that you know won't even work instead of just filing down the version in your hands is peak 3d printing TH-cam lmao
Bob every video:
"now, you can already buy this, but I have a youtube channel to upload to, so Im gunna make it"
Love the process- really cool
Lots of failures. I like it.
How about using the nail for that little insert instead? That way it stays perfectly in the gaps and you can still take it out to move it to another slot?
I wonder if Bob tried that?
I dunno, a teleprompter might be a better option
Id be curious to see what it looks like printed in a clear/translucent filament