Hi Edd. Nice series on your van ac system. Just thought I could give you a couple of tips which may be of help. On most VAG vehicles with manual aircon the recirculation button operation is locked out if the vents are set to demist the windscreen. This is to prevent circulation of damp air which will hinder the demisting process. Also I have changed many of these control units with damaged flap control mechanisms and associated bent cables. This is caused by trying to change which air vents are open whilst the fan is set to a high speed. The resulting air pressure against any closed flap is too high for the mechanism and over stresses the weak components fitted by Volkswagen. If you reduce fan speed a noticible drop in force is required to turn the air direction control and the mechanism will last much longer. I hope this is of some use to you and keep up the good work.
The main issue with these T5 control panels is the air flow selector is not supposed to turn from 12 O'clock, in a clockwise direction, but people force it, if you want to change selection from WINDSCREEN (12 o'clock position) to FACE (3 o'clock) you MUST rotate ANTI CLOCKWISE, later panels no longer had a printed index on this quarter, and had a more positive stop to prevent it. Once it has been forced you may find that selecting face actually blows air to the screen or some other random position, the mesh of the gears is thrown out and no longer synchronized
I just watched a master mechanic spend a series of videos doing a repair that I will never need to do and yet I feel total satisfaction at the result. Thank you Edd for sharing your experience and bringing us along
@@Beer_Dad1975 Not really but this is a fanboi bullshit comment and I'm sure you'll move on to explain how awesome Chevrolet or Dodge is so I'll leave you to it.
So I routinely disassemble and reassemble heater control units with cables due to airbag recall and related repairs. What I like to do is actually lubricate all of the heater control cams, I use a small syringe filled with just simple motor oil, hit all the moving areas before reassembly so everything functions and rotates more smoothly. It also prevents issues like cables developing a kink from occurring. Also it makes everything feel better than it did before the recall which makes the customer happy.
On the sprinters The transducers on the vacuum circuit fail , I’ve changed 2 recently the one that is connected to the small turbo actuator, it was bleeding off the vacuum. And yesterday the small turbo blade was found to be stuck on another 👍🇬🇧, cracking as always guys ….
@@eddchina hi edd just been watching repeats of wheeler dealers and the hilarious episode you and Mike trying to drive the Darravq Type L from London to Brighton
Regarding the question from Crossfirelance, I had a very similar problem with a Seat Alhambra many years ago. All fine except when under significant load when it would drop into limp home mode. Turn it of and on again, problem solved. Turned out to be a braided vacuum hose at the point of connection to the ECU, that had had the braiding rubbed off on one side by the sound insulation on the bulkhead. Hence the hose was collapsing under high load. Easiest fix I’ve ever seen. It took the deisel specialist I took it to about half an hour to diagnose the problem. They cut 1” off the end of the hose and the problem never reoccurred in the subsequent 15 years that I owned the vehicle.
The best tip I was given by a turbo charger expert was, don`t turn the ignition off straight away when you stop the car because, when you turn off the ignition switch, the oil pressure drops & the oil drains when the turbo is still potentially spinning, leaving it `spinning dry`! I put 245k miles on that Rover 218 TD! (It wasn`t a Rover engine-I think it was a Peugeot)
RE the gentleman with the Mercedes Sprinter boost issue: I had a similar error on a 16 plate Ford Transit (Turbo underboost situation detected), fitting a new turbo didn't fix the problem. The fault turned out to be that the tiny port in the inlet manifold that leads to the manifold pressure sensor had blocked up with carbon due to the EGR valve, 2 hours to remove the inlet manifold and clean the carbon out fixed the problem! Good luck, I hope this helps someone out.
Brilliant episode. I happen to have a T5 with - yes, you guessed it - an HVAC position switch that doesn't work properly, so this has given me all the detailed info (not in the manual) on how to get it to bits and fix it. Thank you lots. I also have a suggestion for the turbo pressure/limp home mode problem. I've fixed this issue on my T5 - low pressure due to the variable turbo vanes getting gunked up over time and sometimes not moving properly. Either: 1) new/reconditioned turbo (£££ eek) 2) take turbo to bits and clean or 3) spray some fancy gunk into the turbo inlet and rev the engine. Obviously I've done 3) and it has worked well. Search for "Turbo cleaner kit". I found the sprayer device you get with these kits to be useless, I ended up using a garden pressure sprayer - far better.
Hi Robin, I've watched the video start to finish and couldn't see the information for the switch assembley and new cable, I don't suppose you could steer me in the right direction could you? This fix is exactly what has happened to mine!!
Top tip for you, your outside temp sensor does not effect the operation of your AC at all on any car, AC is believe it or not classed as a safety system by manufacturers (I’ve worked for a few) as it is used when hot or cold externally for different purposes, when cold outside it takes the moisture out of the air to stop moisture on windows far faster if glass is kept clean that is!) and when warm outside obviously to keep you more comfortable, tried it on my 2019 Up Git by disconnecting the temp sensor, no problem except a fault code I then had to delete🙈👍🏻 Top work as always Edd and damn you’re patient, I would have fire bombed it!🙈🤪😂😂😂
I had the A/C fail on a 15-year-old Cadillac, which would have cost more than the vehicle was worth to replace or repair. The solution; in spring, bypass the hot water flow around it. In winter, flow the water through the heater matrix and control the temperature by raising or lowering the electric windows.
Did my apprenticeship with Gilder Van Centre Sheffield ( VWLCV ) ( started in 2005 ) I remember replacing the blue control cable on many T5’s 😞 along with replacing the gates coupling for the A/C pump and Alternator 😞 Along with many other not nice jobs But on the whole a great van and fantastic apprenticeship 👍
It's great viewing to see the fault finding process and we'll done for finally solving the numerous issues. Personally I'd probably just have opened the window though!
Mate it's worth putting the work in to ! I'v got a t5 174, that 2.5 is just so good!!!! , you won't get a new van with a five banger ✌️ Also my Aircon and controller is not working so I'm going to use this as a guide 👍
ED! My mercedes sprinter has just had an issue where the waffle style inlet manifold blew a small crack and when cold drives fine with small boost leak but would go in and out of limp mode when warm is a good place to look!
Nice to see this one. It is problematic especially in the winter time if air conditioning does not work and blow hot air to the windows. It will cause freezing of the windows so that you cannot see outside. Sometimes cheap plastic parts will break down. This was also nice pinpointing and detective work to find where problem part is located. Sometimes those error codes and devices used in car repair to find problems cannot find or locate these kind of problems.
re the merc van issue, if quoting p codes then your using generic reader, get something better (oem tool etc). live data the required boost, actual boost, boost control duty cycle etc. will give an idea of how the boost control is working.
Probably in the comments somewhere but, at 6:00 when you're showing that recirculation doesn't work, you also have the vent selector in the windshield/screen defog mode. In defog mode, I believe recirc gets disabled. The idea being that you want fresh air in the cabin to 'flush' out humidity. I've never been in a T5 so just guessing but, it's not an uncommon configuration.
Edd China is to busy figuring everything out by himself, so he hasn't got the time to just Google the correct answer, like I would do. If I didn't already know that recirculation gets turned off when you want to demist the windshield.
Regarding the Sprinter van, much like Edd and Paul mentioned, try and get it on a dyno or open road and log the live data (usually a graph) with a "decent" scan tool- Mercedes Star would be best, but Autel or Launch should have a live value option. That should help point you in the right direction.. even dodgy wiring can cause intermittent issues, sensor works but wiring shorts out or loses signal at times (such as hard acceleration under boost). Weather or not it's part of it I don't know but Mercs have a SAM (signal acquisition module) that can cause all sorts of issues.. ask me how I know;-) Good luck!
Hi Matthew. Thanks I did a live test on open road with live data running. After flogging it , it never faulted. Got near home…. It faulted. It never seems to do it at a mechanics 🙄🤬👍
Who saw the message at 0:17. Oh no! Not this tired old T5 again! This ‘five minute job” has taken so many hours, in fact days, NOT to finish. This better be the episode where Edd finally gets it sorted or we’re going to side with John and blow it up ourselves!
@@TheStevenWhiting All you need to do is pause the video by hitting space and then use the "," and "." keys to advance one frame backwards and forwards to get the exact frame you want. No need to mess around with ripping the video.
Well done Edd. I have this same van. I am a total rookie when it comes to all things mechanical. However a few years ago I also replaced that faulty green cable. I wish I had thought to remove the glovebox at the time. I just did it by 'feel'. This really makes me appreciate all your other videos soo much more because I can appreciate how fiddly it is to removing everything and film at the same time. I do recall that the new cable I got was much stronger than the one I replaced. Also keep an eye out for the heavily corroded green wire under the drivers seat which is wrapped in black automotive cloth/tape which will cause issues with the central locking. My other issue was an intermittent 'rattle'/vibration which sounded like it was coming from the passenger footwell. Only seemed to happen sometimes, usually when putting my foot down. That was caused by one of the pipes (or whatever) that goes through the firewall. Easily fixed with some motorcycle pipe insulation stuffed around the offending pipe. Your ongoing issues reming me of the problem "Sam's Motor & Machine" is STILL having with his Landrover suspension (after months)
Regarding the boost pressure issue, I can only speak from a VW Group point of view, but it's possible to use diagnostics to log the "Specified Boost" and log the "Actual Boost" into a file that can then be viewed or exported into MS Excel to compare the columns and assess if it's got something like sticky turbo vains and over boosting.
I would have offloaded that VW instead of spending all the money trying to fix it. But then we would not get the knowledge that you display in doing fault finding and repairs. Great show and reinforces my theory that you sell your car before it becomes a nightmare to fix. Would love to see more of Paul on some his work in the shop.
I've had this with a couple of 2017 transits. It'll be the pedal box, the bushing on the clutch pedal deteriorates. To test it the pedal should move side to side. Pig of a job, best of luck.
Had an '87 Olds for 24 years and at the end it needed a lot of work on the brakes and suspension. The engine went out after all the repairs were made. Was given an '02 Volvo and you'd never guess; it needs the same work but not as much. Had the engine tested and it passed. That was what I should've done with the Olds. Would've saved a lot.
The recirculation button 5:49 doesn't work if you have the blower turned toward the windshield. Or I think it was so. Sold my T5 a few years ago and bought a Crafter
With the sprinter boost problem check the T peace on the vacuum/ servo to the vacuum booster the T peace blocks up and gives u problem with boost codes
Ooooh Bravo!!!! Por fin conseguiste arreglar el aire acondicionado!! Y gracias a tu vídeo, yo podré arreglar el mío, le pasa exactamente lo mismo. Gracias por tu vídeo Edd!!!!
16:23 regarding the squeaks. When that happens on a subaru the pedal bracket has taken a few spot welds with it from the fire wall and said goodbye forever. Worth checking the fire wall in the engine bay while someone is pressing the clutch pedal. Then, if it is a similar problem, obviously all the safety and precautions when you weld them back up. I have experience of what happens when you don't
Adam Higson's problem is one of two things. The relay is a special relay that can tell the system if it's jammed, so It should not be replaced with any old relay. Also the system should cut out once charged, and the sphere is not under vacuum, its nominally at 200 bar full of brake fluid not air. It could also be a faulty pressure switch which is normally on the side of the pump. Be very careful as there are extreme pressures involved so don't just take it apart.
A great repair Ed. Now a nice double Din sizes head unit to replace your old radio would look great in that. I fitted an Eonon, from Singapore and works great on my VW Tiguan.
The kinking of the cambers is caused by turning the dial past the 12 O’clock position. It’s a very common problem on a T5, I’ve just swapped out all of my cables
@5:00 - I had a Nissan that kinked the cable like that, it was the temp cable though, but you could reach it from underneath, so you set it cold, leaned under and pushed the cable, it'd pull from cold towards hot ok.
I’m a mechanic in the south east and had exactly the same problem with a customers sprinter, it had all the same symptoms as lances sprinter. We checked and replaced a number of things and found lots of small boost leaks when performing a smoke test. We narrowed it down to either an ecu fault or a fault with the turbos. However customer called it a day and didn’t want to spend anymore money on labour and testing of this components.
Hi Joe. Yes I’m at that point. This problem has been going on for years. Every now & then I’ll take it to a mechanic. He says this will fix it. Spend $$$$ but doesn’t fix it 🤬👍
@@joebuttrey4856. No no one has done that. Mechanics are giving me the shits at the minute. I had the turbo actuators replaced @ $1000. Came on again within hours. Then mechanic said oh it must be the turbos then 🙄🤬👍
My T5 compressor failed, bought a brand new imported repro...which broke instantly...sourced a used one , worked like a dream ...but the whole process was very time consuming and expensive in the end...apart from that, i love my 18 year old Shuttle.
The AC issue on the T5 and Defender 2, as well as the turbo issue on the Sprinter show one major issue with CANbus: limited information. It only tells you whether or not it is getting the signal it needs or expects, and shows an error of it doesn't, but it isn't always the part that has failed. If it is in a chain with other sensors or accessories, it can still show up as the fault as it is the end of the chain. A general tip for working on modern cars: never unplug or plug things back in with the ignition on and/or the engine running. It might send the VCM or ECU into a endless loop, because you gave it new information it wasn't expecting, or taking it away. Quite annoying if you put it in limp home mode or some other fault state. My guess is that Edd didn't buy a dud with his first replacement compressor, the faulty controller fried it as it showed as an issue with the compressor because it didn't do what it was supposed to. The real issue was too much voltage, which showed as a different issue. The 2,3 Ohm resistance on the AC controller wiring isn't supposed to be that high. Could've been a connection issue with the multimeter, or all the connections in the test wire, but it should read close to 0, especially as those wires send very specific messages by regulating voltage. Usually from 0,5 to 4,5V, so any resistance will mess with that message. The Defender still shows the wrong temperature on the dash, as it probably hasn't been reset, so the computer remains in a loop until it has. The Sprinter is a lot more complex, given it's a turbo issue so you need it running ideally. If possible, it would be best to run it on a dyno with live data from an OEM machine, to recreate the issue. Since so much has been replaced already, but the same fault keeps returning, it could be an issue with the data the boost control uses to regulate pressure. Not sure if they do it this way, but it could be taking the MAP data, so if that sensor was wrong or faulty, it won't set the right boost pressure and it won't get the expected data from that sensor. It is all too common that it becomes an endless cycle of replacing parts with no result, as the owner fears, so having a Mercedes specialist go over the CANbus system and make sure the fault isn't caused in some other part of the system. I've worked on modern cars and bikes, all relying on CANbus, and have seen many strange issues that ended up coming from somewhere completely different. The CANbus system is so sensitive to changes in voltage, that electrical noise from a bad sensor or accessory can confuse a sensor somewhere else. Cutting and soldering the CANbus wiring can ruin it, if the joint wasn't perfect and slightly increased the resistance.
@Yvolve, so true, I found it necessary to own three different Scanners to be able to get at the needed information. On one occasion I was asked to determine why a controller failed repeatedly. I found it necessary to remove the entire climate control unit ( and the dashboard) completely disassembled it and remove one rat tail comb , several hair barrett, a toy car among other odd items. The top of the dash is not the place to store small objects . This variety of things had entered through the ductwork, I suspect a child might have had a hand in the process.
@@theoldman8877 Also very true! I love watching channels like Just Rolled In, with the craziest things happening to cars. The state some of these cars are in is insane and they still drive them. My favourite is a car going in several times for a rattling noise, turned out to be a production line worker who threw a hand of nuts in the rear quarter panel as a joke. Bill ended up being like 10 grand of pointless work done, so they tracked down who worked on the car and fired him. I've seen some bad factory work as well. Bad electrics, installation and sloppy work. Such a pain to PDI those vehicles and having to fix it.
Edd, when the air flow is directed to the windshield, the recirculation button is desabilitaded in the vw ac system. The problem must be only on the cable. Thank you for your videos, I'm a fan from Brasil!
I was thinking the same thing. Traditionally recirculate does not function in the defrost option, only when you select center vent or floor will the recirculate feature illuminate
Something worth checking for the lad with the squeeky clutch pedal is the rubber cover on the pedal itself. I had a similar issue on my Civic and did all the same things with WD40 and oil. Took me ages to spot it was the rubber pad squeeking against the metal backing plate.
I have repaired cables like the one that is kinked by straightening it and heating to reflow the tin and even added some solder. But you must be careful not to overheat the cable and melt the plastic connector or add too much solder that it will not slide in the sheath when pushed.
Peak Ed for me was the transmission fix on that Polish car where they invited the ambassador to ride in it after. I hope we have some of those crazy obscure fixes on this channel eventually. Like watching what I’ve seen so far too.
Gracias Es....te sigo desde el primer programa de Joyas.... Agradezco muy cálidamente el que ahora tus vídeos tengan textos también al español. Te abrazo desde Montevideo Uruguay 🇺🇾.
Stuart McLean squeaky clutch pedal. The noise might be emitted from the adjacent metal structure in the dashboard or floor, or whatever the pedal is pushing against. In other words, it might be coming from 30cm away from any clutch part. Best to have a friend stick their head down there to track it down. If not a friend, then two tubes running to your ears, and slowly close in on the noise source. Good luck.
For the Sprinter: I had a leakage on my high pressure side just before the MAF and got the same error. Use light paper and someone to apply high rpm to see if you have a leak.
My 2011 Seat Leon (1P1) got the same issue too in mid summer 2018 ... the compressor was fine ... gas fine ... everything fine ... just the control module doesn't send the right PWM signal to the pressure switch ( which was fine ...) ...I've fixed the problem just on summer 2019 after a 800Km trip for 180Euro ...
Later transporters don't allow the vent direction adjuster to go 360 degrees, 12-3 is only possible by going anti clockwise 12,9,6,3. This makes the cables last much longer. On older vans it's worth avoiding this motion to improve life. You can see the change in the new part which has been fitted.
This show has the best parts of what made wheeler dealer good
Hi Edd. Nice series on your van ac system. Just thought I could give you a couple of tips which may be of help. On most VAG vehicles with manual aircon the recirculation button operation is locked out if the vents are set to demist the windscreen. This is to prevent circulation of damp air which will hinder the demisting process. Also I have changed many of these control units with damaged flap control mechanisms and associated bent cables. This is caused by trying to change which air vents are open whilst the fan is set to a high speed. The resulting air pressure against any closed flap is too high for the mechanism and over stresses the weak components fitted by Volkswagen. If you reduce fan speed a noticible drop in force is required to turn the air direction control and the mechanism will last much longer. I hope this is of some use to you and keep up the good work.
The main issue with these T5 control panels is the air flow selector is not supposed to turn from 12 O'clock, in a clockwise direction, but people force it, if you want to change selection from WINDSCREEN (12 o'clock position) to FACE (3 o'clock) you MUST rotate ANTI CLOCKWISE, later panels no longer had a printed index on this quarter, and had a more positive stop to prevent it. Once it has been forced you may find that selecting face actually blows air to the screen or some other random position, the mesh of the gears is thrown out and no longer synchronized
I just watched a master mechanic spend a series of videos doing a repair that I will never need to do and yet I feel total satisfaction at the result. Thank you Edd for sharing your experience and bringing us along
"I will not be beaten by this A/C" you've just gotta love the steely determination. Well done Edd, until next time 👍
The Land Rover looks way easier to fix compared to this T5 - so many points of failure. The T5 is lucky to have you Edd.
Edd China. Patience of a Saint. Love the T5 work, don’t give up on her just yet!
Thanks ever so much Edd for clearly demonstrating over and over why NOT to by a VW product. Well done indeed.
Ooooh, a bit harsh love
That was a good example showing how sometimes everything that can go wrong does go wrong.
Thanks for taking us along on the quest for cold air. :)
Also a good example of how trashy VAG products are.
@@Beer_Dad1975 Not really but this is a fanboi bullshit comment and I'm sure you'll move on to explain how awesome Chevrolet or Dodge is so I'll leave you to it.
That Murphy Sod guy rears his ugly head again, I bet Edd dropped his toast butter side down when he had his breakfast as well.
So I routinely disassemble and reassemble heater control units with cables due to airbag recall and related repairs. What I like to do is actually lubricate all of the heater control cams, I use a small syringe filled with just simple motor oil, hit all the moving areas before reassembly so everything functions and rotates more smoothly. It also prevents issues like cables developing a kink from occurring. Also it makes everything feel better than it did before the recall which makes the customer happy.
Always nice to watch someone else who knows what they don't know yet, work.
The bachata at 27:25 👌🏼 excellent choice.
This series of videos reminded me of a valuable lesson - never trust ‘new’ parts!
Patience Patience Patience. You certainly have it . Brill
The "Far-Fig Newton" strikes again! Good job climbing this mountain!
That ending made me chuckle!
On the sprinters The transducers on the vacuum circuit fail , I’ve changed 2 recently the one that is connected to the small turbo actuator, it was bleeding off the vacuum. And yesterday the small turbo blade was found to be stuck on another 👍🇬🇧, cracking as always guys ….
Sounds like it’s a common problem, hope they are easier to fix than on my Range Rovers!
@@eddchina literally 5 minutes 👍
@Edd China I watch your videos from Mexico. I'm such a big fan. Greetings!!!
I've never seen a system fail so comprehensively as this AC, are you parking this thing on an ancient burial site Ed?
It might just bury it, if it doesn’t behave after this!
@@eddchina hi edd just been watching repeats of wheeler dealers and the hilarious episode you and Mike trying to drive the Darravq Type L from London to Brighton
Which part of "Volkswagen" did we overlook? ;-)
Nice cars, but they're unfortunately laced with VAG parts.
Jack up the emblem and slide a new van underneath
@@lanceboyle4255 underrated comment LMAO
At last, the AC is working - what a job.
Regarding the question from Crossfirelance, I had a very similar problem with a Seat Alhambra many years ago. All fine except when under significant load when it would drop into limp home mode. Turn it of and on again, problem solved. Turned out to be a braided vacuum hose at the point of connection to the ECU, that had had the braiding rubbed off on one side by the sound insulation on the bulkhead. Hence the hose was collapsing under high load. Easiest fix I’ve ever seen. It took the deisel specialist I took it to about half an hour to diagnose the problem. They cut 1” off the end of the hose and the problem never reoccurred in the subsequent 15 years that I owned the vehicle.
The best tip I was given by a turbo charger expert was, don`t turn the ignition off straight away when you stop the car because, when you turn off the ignition switch, the oil pressure drops & the oil drains when the turbo is still potentially spinning, leaving it `spinning dry`!
I put 245k miles on that Rover 218 TD! (It wasn`t a Rover engine-I think it was a Peugeot)
Thank You Edd!!! We are so glad your AC is fixed!!!!
yay.. a completed job
RE the gentleman with the Mercedes Sprinter boost issue:
I had a similar error on a 16 plate Ford Transit (Turbo underboost situation detected), fitting a new turbo didn't fix the problem. The fault turned out to be that the tiny port in the inlet manifold that leads to the manifold pressure sensor had blocked up with carbon due to the EGR valve, 2 hours to remove the inlet manifold and clean the carbon out fixed the problem!
Good luck, I hope this helps someone out.
I love your methodical problem-solving approach.
Must admit Edd, admire your patience and tenacity in seeing that job through to a conclusion. thoroughly enjoy watching your channel.
Having to replace the green heater cable on my T5 lead me here. Great video thanks.
Brilliant episode. I happen to have a T5 with - yes, you guessed it - an HVAC position switch that doesn't work properly, so this has given me all the detailed info (not in the manual) on how to get it to bits and fix it. Thank you lots. I also have a suggestion for the turbo pressure/limp home mode problem. I've fixed this issue on my T5 - low pressure due to the variable turbo vanes getting gunked up over time and sometimes not moving properly. Either: 1) new/reconditioned turbo (£££ eek) 2) take turbo to bits and clean or 3) spray some fancy gunk into the turbo inlet and rev the engine. Obviously I've done 3) and it has worked well. Search for "Turbo cleaner kit". I found the sprayer device you get with these kits to be useless, I ended up using a garden pressure sprayer - far better.
Hi Robin, I've watched the video start to finish and couldn't see the information for the switch assembley and new cable, I don't suppose you could steer me in the right direction could you? This fix is exactly what has happened to mine!!
Hurrah !
Top job mate!
Top tip for you, your outside temp sensor does not effect the operation of your AC at all on any car, AC is believe it or not classed as a safety system by manufacturers (I’ve worked for a few) as it is used when hot or cold externally for different purposes, when cold outside it takes the moisture out of the air to stop moisture on windows far faster if glass is kept clean that is!) and when warm outside obviously to keep you more comfortable, tried it on my 2019 Up Git by disconnecting the temp sensor, no problem except a fault code I then had to delete🙈👍🏻
Top work as always Edd and damn you’re patient, I would have fire bombed it!🙈🤪😂😂😂
thankfully no need to blow up the van :) Long gone are the days of old VW Beetles and Mini that can be fixed in two jiffy with minimal tools..
I had the A/C fail on a 15-year-old Cadillac, which would have cost more than the vehicle was worth to replace or repair. The solution; in spring, bypass the hot water flow around it. In winter, flow the water through the heater matrix and control the temperature by raising or lowering the electric windows.
Great solution! Better than scrapping the car!
I have often spent more on a car than it was worth, but it was less than the cost of replacing it.
@@eddchina I consider your approval of my kludge an honour!
more video add please.thanks.We used to watch you with pleasure at the wheeler dealer.Greetings from Turkey :)
what an effort to complete this repair....amazing tenacity you are the man Ed
Did my apprenticeship with Gilder Van Centre Sheffield ( VWLCV ) ( started in 2005 ) I remember replacing the blue control cable on many T5’s 😞 along with replacing the gates coupling for the A/C pump and Alternator 😞
Along with many other not nice jobs
But on the whole a great van and fantastic apprenticeship 👍
Top tip, warm the thicker lube in warm water before spraying.
Thank you Edd China for the great video and excellent live chat tonight
Edd get the gentleman with the turbo problem to check the actuater on the turbo as I had this problem with our Skoda Octavia
Hi Andrew. Yes both actuators have been replaced 😁👍
Thank you edd. Good job.
Just in time for summer! 👌
Well done Edd
VW and electrical issues. Dah! Go Edd!
Screwed up since 1974.
It's great viewing to see the fault finding process and we'll done for finally solving the numerous issues. Personally I'd probably just have opened the window though!
You professional man I every time you follow
Mate it's worth putting the work in to ! I'v got a t5 174, that 2.5 is just so good!!!! , you won't get a new van with a five banger ✌️
Also my Aircon and controller is not working so I'm going to use this as a guide 👍
Hello,master EDD😁😁😁😁😁
ED! My mercedes sprinter has just had an issue where the waffle style inlet manifold blew a small crack and when cold drives fine with small boost leak but would go in and out of limp mode when warm is a good place to look!
Also I've been told is a very common sprinter fault
Nice to see this one. It is problematic especially in the winter time if air conditioning does not work and blow hot air to the windows. It will cause freezing of the windows so that you cannot see outside. Sometimes cheap plastic parts will break down. This was also nice pinpointing and detective work to find where problem part is located. Sometimes those error codes and devices used in car repair to find problems cannot find or locate these kind of problems.
What persistence, Edd! Well done.
re the merc van issue, if quoting p codes then your using generic reader, get something better (oem tool etc). live data the required boost, actual boost, boost control duty cycle etc. will give an idea of how the boost control is working.
Thank goodness that's done ☺️
Probably in the comments somewhere but, at 6:00 when you're showing that recirculation doesn't work, you also have the vent selector in the windshield/screen defog mode. In defog mode, I believe recirc gets disabled. The idea being that you want fresh air in the cabin to 'flush' out humidity. I've never been in a T5 so just guessing but, it's not an uncommon configuration.
I own a T5 and what you say is true.
Edd China is to busy figuring everything out by himself, so he hasn't got the time to just Google the correct answer, like I would do. If I didn't already know that recirculation gets turned off when you want to demist the windshield.
Regarding the Sprinter van, much like Edd and Paul mentioned, try and get it on a dyno or open road and log the live data (usually a graph) with a "decent" scan tool- Mercedes Star would be best, but Autel or Launch should have a live value option. That should help point you in the right direction.. even dodgy wiring can cause intermittent issues, sensor works but wiring shorts out or loses signal at times (such as hard acceleration under boost).
Weather or not it's part of it I don't know but Mercs have a SAM (signal acquisition module) that can cause all sorts of issues.. ask me how I know;-)
Good luck!
Hi Matthew. Thanks I did a live test on open road with live data running. After flogging it , it never faulted. Got near home…. It faulted. It never seems to do it at a mechanics 🙄🤬👍
Who saw the message at 0:17.
Oh no! Not this tired old T5 again! This ‘five minute job” has taken so many hours, in fact days, NOT to finish. This better be the episode where Edd finally gets it sorted or we’re going to side with John and blow it up ourselves!
He!..He!...I guess the video editor is already a bit fed up with the eccentricities of good old Edd.
Trying to pause it in time ia a knightmare so will rip the video then do it in VLC :)
@@TheStevenWhiting All you need to do is pause the video by hitting space and then use the "," and "." keys to advance one frame backwards and forwards to get the exact frame you want. No need to mess around with ripping the video.
Well done Edd. I have this same van. I am a total rookie when it comes to all things mechanical. However a few years ago I also replaced that faulty green cable. I wish I had thought to remove the glovebox at the time. I just did it by 'feel'. This really makes me appreciate all your other videos soo much more because I can appreciate how fiddly it is to removing everything and film at the same time. I do recall that the new cable I got was much stronger than the one I replaced.
Also keep an eye out for the heavily corroded green wire under the drivers seat which is wrapped in black automotive cloth/tape which will cause issues with the central locking. My other issue was an intermittent 'rattle'/vibration which sounded like it was coming from the passenger footwell. Only seemed to happen sometimes, usually when putting my foot down. That was caused by one of the pipes (or whatever) that goes through the firewall. Easily fixed with some motorcycle pipe insulation stuffed around the offending pipe.
Your ongoing issues reming me of the problem "Sam's Motor & Machine" is STILL having with his Landrover suspension (after months)
Regarding the boost pressure issue, I can only speak from a VW Group point of view, but it's possible to use diagnostics to log the "Specified Boost" and log the "Actual Boost" into a file that can then be viewed or exported into MS Excel to compare the columns and assess if it's got something like sticky turbo vains and over boosting.
That would be really handy, I suspect Mercedes’ diagnostics would do the same…
Edd, another job well done. Thank you! 🇨🇦
I would have offloaded that VW instead of spending all the money trying to fix it. But then we would not get the knowledge that you display in doing fault finding and repairs. Great show and reinforces my theory that you sell your car before it becomes a nightmare to fix. Would love to see more of Paul on some his work in the shop.
30:06 - Just like the old 'Wheeler Dealer' days.
☮
Look at you guys! Sneaking in a little cheeky bachata in there… 🕺🏾
I've had this with a couple of 2017 transits. It'll be the pedal box, the bushing on the clutch pedal deteriorates. To test it the pedal should move side to side. Pig of a job, best of luck.
Yeah very common in transits
Common on the mondeo as well, need to take the complete pedal box out, yep absolute nightmare of a job. Best of luck
Excellent 👌
Had an '87 Olds for 24 years and at the end it needed a lot of work on the brakes and suspension. The engine went out after all the repairs were made. Was given an '02 Volvo and you'd never guess; it needs the same work but not as much. Had the engine tested and it passed. That was what I should've done with the Olds. Would've saved a lot.
Almost 1M subscribers Ed - keep going me 'ol china!!
Made my Friday night 👍
The recirculation button 5:49 doesn't work if you have the blower turned toward the windshield. Or I think it was so. Sold my T5 a few years ago and bought a Crafter
Correct, its so in every vw
That’s right but the old controller wasn’t working in any position.
@@eddchina You should have clarified. OTOH, fifty commenters wouldn't have commented.
With the sprinter boost problem check the T peace on the vacuum/ servo to the vacuum booster the T peace blocks up and gives u problem with boost codes
Cool! Sorry, nice work!
Love your show Edd!! Good job with the HVAC repair!
Ooooh Bravo!!!! Por fin conseguiste arreglar el aire acondicionado!! Y gracias a tu vídeo, yo podré arreglar el mío, le pasa exactamente lo mismo. Gracias por tu vídeo Edd!!!!
16:23 regarding the squeaks.
When that happens on a subaru the pedal bracket has taken a few spot welds with it from the fire wall and said goodbye forever.
Worth checking the fire wall in the engine bay while someone is pressing the clutch pedal. Then, if it is a similar problem, obviously all the safety and precautions when you weld them back up. I have experience of what happens when you don't
Top work, I would’ve applied a bit of silicone grease in those cam channels, the bottom one may of been trouble getting to though
Adam Higson's problem is one of two things. The relay is a special relay that can tell the system if it's jammed, so It should not be replaced with any old relay. Also the system should cut out once charged, and the sphere is not under vacuum, its nominally at 200 bar full of brake fluid not air. It could also be a faulty pressure switch which is normally on the side of the pump. Be very careful as there are extreme pressures involved so don't just take it apart.
Edd beautiful job, i like to much....well done!
A great repair Ed. Now a nice double Din sizes head unit to replace your old radio would look great in that. I fitted an Eonon, from Singapore and works great on my VW Tiguan.
The kinking of the cambers is caused by turning the dial past the 12 O’clock position. It’s a very common problem on a T5, I’ve just swapped out all of my cables
@5:00 - I had a Nissan that kinked the cable like that, it was the temp cable though, but you could reach it from underneath, so you set it cold, leaned under and pushed the cable, it'd pull from cold towards hot ok.
I’m a mechanic in the south east and had exactly the same problem with a customers sprinter, it had all the same symptoms as lances sprinter. We checked and replaced a number of things and found lots of small boost leaks when performing a smoke test. We narrowed it down to either an ecu fault or a fault with the turbos. However customer called it a day and didn’t want to spend anymore money on labour and testing of this components.
Hi Joe. Yes I’m at that point. This problem has been going on for years. Every now & then I’ll take it to a mechanic. He says this will fix it. Spend $$$$ but doesn’t fix it 🤬👍
@@dukeboy1098 I would strip the turbos off and have them inspected and tested. That was my next step but customer didn’t want to pay
Have you had a smoke test done to find any leaks in intake system
@@joebuttrey4856. No no one has done that. Mechanics are giving me the shits at the minute. I had the turbo actuators replaced @ $1000. Came on again within hours. Then mechanic said oh it must be the turbos then 🙄🤬👍
@@dukeboy1098 find someone local that can do a smoke test
Love your work 👍
My T5 compressor failed, bought a brand new imported repro...which broke instantly...sourced a used one , worked like a dream ...but the whole process was very time consuming and expensive in the end...apart from that, i love my 18 year old Shuttle.
Minimum 2k US for the repair . Ed your amazing.
Never bored. Love the T5 vids. 30.37 i didn't bother putting the torx back either. 1 less job next time :)
Very cool!
Edd China is awesome
Well done edd, great work 😀👌👍
The AC issue on the T5 and Defender 2, as well as the turbo issue on the Sprinter show one major issue with CANbus: limited information.
It only tells you whether or not it is getting the signal it needs or expects, and shows an error of it doesn't, but it isn't always the part that has failed. If it is in a chain with other sensors or accessories, it can still show up as the fault as it is the end of the chain.
A general tip for working on modern cars: never unplug or plug things back in with the ignition on and/or the engine running. It might send the VCM or ECU into a endless loop, because you gave it new information it wasn't expecting, or taking it away. Quite annoying if you put it in limp home mode or some other fault state.
My guess is that Edd didn't buy a dud with his first replacement compressor, the faulty controller fried it as it showed as an issue with the compressor because it didn't do what it was supposed to. The real issue was too much voltage, which showed as a different issue. The 2,3 Ohm resistance on the AC controller wiring isn't supposed to be that high. Could've been a connection issue with the multimeter, or all the connections in the test wire, but it should read close to 0, especially as those wires send very specific messages by regulating voltage. Usually from 0,5 to 4,5V, so any resistance will mess with that message.
The Defender still shows the wrong temperature on the dash, as it probably hasn't been reset, so the computer remains in a loop until it has.
The Sprinter is a lot more complex, given it's a turbo issue so you need it running ideally. If possible, it would be best to run it on a dyno with live data from an OEM machine, to recreate the issue. Since so much has been replaced already, but the same fault keeps returning, it could be an issue with the data the boost control uses to regulate pressure. Not sure if they do it this way, but it could be taking the MAP data, so if that sensor was wrong or faulty, it won't set the right boost pressure and it won't get the expected data from that sensor.
It is all too common that it becomes an endless cycle of replacing parts with no result, as the owner fears, so having a Mercedes specialist go over the CANbus system and make sure the fault isn't caused in some other part of the system.
I've worked on modern cars and bikes, all relying on CANbus, and have seen many strange issues that ended up coming from somewhere completely different. The CANbus system is so sensitive to changes in voltage, that electrical noise from a bad sensor or accessory can confuse a sensor somewhere else. Cutting and soldering the CANbus wiring can ruin it, if the joint wasn't perfect and slightly increased the resistance.
@Yvolve, so true, I found it necessary to own three different Scanners to be able to get at the needed information. On one occasion I was asked to determine why a controller failed repeatedly. I found it necessary to remove the entire climate control unit ( and the dashboard) completely disassembled it and remove one rat tail comb , several hair barrett, a toy car among other odd items. The top of the dash is not the place to store small objects . This variety of things had entered through the ductwork, I suspect a child might have had a hand in the process.
@@theoldman8877 Also very true! I love watching channels like Just Rolled In, with the craziest things happening to cars. The state some of these cars are in is insane and they still drive them.
My favourite is a car going in several times for a rattling noise, turned out to be a production line worker who threw a hand of nuts in the rear quarter panel as a joke. Bill ended up being like 10 grand of pointless work done, so they tracked down who worked on the car and fired him.
I've seen some bad factory work as well. Bad electrics, installation and sloppy work. Such a pain to PDI those vehicles and having to fix it.
The T5 is not canbus.
@@garycrofts1421 OBD2 has the same issues, but worse as you get even less info.
many thanks this was a great help much appreicated
Edd, when the air flow is directed to the windshield, the recirculation button is desabilitaded in the vw ac system. The problem must be only on the cable. Thank you for your videos, I'm a fan from Brasil!
I was thinking the same thing. Traditionally recirculate does not function in the defrost option, only when you select center vent or floor will the recirculate feature illuminate
HALO EDD AUSTRALIA HERE
BEAT-IT YERRRRRRR good to see ya still tinkering lol
Something worth checking for the lad with the squeeky clutch pedal is the rubber cover on the pedal itself. I had a similar issue on my Civic and did all the same things with WD40 and oil. Took me ages to spot it was the rubber pad squeeking against the metal backing plate.
I have repaired cables like the one that is kinked by straightening it and heating to reflow the tin and even added some solder. But you must be careful not to overheat the cable and melt the plastic connector or add too much solder that it will not slide in the sheath when pushed.
Peak Ed for me was the transmission fix on that Polish car where they invited the ambassador to ride in it after. I hope we have some of those crazy obscure fixes on this channel eventually. Like watching what I’ve seen so far too.
Syrena?
Gracias Es....te sigo desde el primer programa de Joyas....
Agradezco muy cálidamente el que ahora tus vídeos tengan textos también al español. Te abrazo desde Montevideo Uruguay 🇺🇾.
Stuart McLean squeaky clutch pedal. The noise might be emitted from the adjacent metal structure in the dashboard or floor, or whatever the pedal is pushing against. In other words, it might be coming from 30cm away from any clutch part. Best to have a friend stick their head down there to track it down. If not a friend, then two tubes running to your ears, and slowly close in on the noise source. Good luck.
Edd needs about 6 more videos to break 1 million subs... with 200.000 views each.
For the Sprinter: I had a leakage on my high pressure side just before the MAF and got the same error. Use light paper and someone to apply high rpm to see if you have a leak.
Very good!
My 2011 Seat Leon (1P1) got the same issue too in mid summer 2018 ... the compressor was fine ... gas fine ... everything fine ... just the control module doesn't send the right PWM signal to the pressure switch ( which was fine ...) ...I've fixed the problem just on summer 2019 after a 800Km trip for 180Euro ...
Later transporters don't allow the vent direction adjuster to go 360 degrees, 12-3 is only possible by going anti clockwise 12,9,6,3. This makes the cables last much longer. On older vans it's worth avoiding this motion to improve life. You can see the change in the new part which has been fitted.