Just a question, why not frame the floor and insulate in between before plywood? To gain head room? By compressing the insulation that much wouldn’t you reduce how effective it is?
I know this is an old video, but I'm curious why you didn't just get L-track that's flat on the bottom and attach it on top of the floor (all the way through into/through the bottom if needed) instead of having to precisely measure three channels between the pieces of wood.
Good question! When attaching l-track, or any mounting hardware to the flow, it needs to be securely fitted. If you just use self-drilling screws into the floor sheet metal, that's only as strong as the connection point can be. When I learned that, I decided I wanted a cleaner, more flush look, which the Flanged L-Track provided. If I just screwed the square version on top of the floor, it would then be a bigger bump to always try not to trip on. Hopefully that made sense.
@@SeatTimeClips yep, makes sense! I'd go all the way through the floor with a bolt + big washer minimum of course. Was just curious if there was a reason you use that aside from the bigger "bump" as you mentioned. Thanks for the reply!
Do you have any pics of the dirt bike loaded using the tracks you installed,? mountain bike loaded also would be great. Having a hard time picturing how it would work. Other then that it was a very helpful video.
I post a lot of pics to Instagram, and this one was awhile ago. Full transparency as well, after I got done doing the floor I got a message from the guys at Boltiton. They wanted me to try their rack in the van and I haven't given it back. It's been a great addition and I wish I had just bought it originally and not gone through the head ache I did go through drilling and prepping the floors. Here's the video made when we installed it: th-cam.com/video/HynVJDzse8I/w-d-xo.html
Question: you refer to the backing plates as conduit. I am searching for that product but don’t have a proper keyword to find it. What’s it name in the trades so I can find it? Thanks for the video as it gives a method.
NICE. Good job on the googling. Now that I have the Boltiton Rack, I really don't need that support, but here we are. I had a plan, executed it, but then a new plan presented it self.
I bought the 95 Mil Felt Back Small Coin Gray 8ft. On their site the smallest I found was a 20ft roll. I emailed and asked if they had any take off they would sell in a smaller roll. They did and I purchased 15ft.
Currently building a van as well. LOVE Thinsulate but would have to agree that it's not the most effective insulation for floors because as it compresses it looses it's insulating qualities. You'll retain some but not as much as if the insulation were allowed to fully expand. A good alternative would be some sort of foam such as XPS foam board.
@@piccolo6214 Yes I agree, thinsulate only works to its potential when it's not compressed and is able expand to its full 1.5" thickness. The best material I believe is the high density closed cell foam (similar to those thin camping foam rolls). You can get 3/8" thickness to cut thin to put between the floor corrugations, then once level to the top of the corrugations, a full layer of 1/4" thickness. Thinsulate is perfect for the walls and ceiling.
Finally, a video that shows L track installation. I was worried I'd have to get under the van. Honda Odyssey, I doubt there's much room down there
Thanks for posting this I want to add some l tracks to my passenger van and this definitely gave some real insight
Right on, glad it helped. Let me know how your project turns out!
Best LT tutorial for conversion nerds!
👊🏻 Thanks!
"redneck engineering" is also my favorite phrase. good video man!
Haha, thanks!!!
Good and helpful video.. thanks! Braaap!
Right on, glad it helped!
Coming along nicely man.
Just a question, why not frame the floor and insulate in between before plywood? To gain head room? By compressing the insulation that much wouldn’t you reduce how effective it is?
I know this is an old video, but I'm curious why you didn't just get L-track that's flat on the bottom and attach it on top of the floor (all the way through into/through the bottom if needed) instead of having to precisely measure three channels between the pieces of wood.
Good question! When attaching l-track, or any mounting hardware to the flow, it needs to be securely fitted. If you just use self-drilling screws into the floor sheet metal, that's only as strong as the connection point can be. When I learned that, I decided I wanted a cleaner, more flush look, which the Flanged L-Track provided. If I just screwed the square version on top of the floor, it would then be a bigger bump to always try not to trip on. Hopefully that made sense.
@@SeatTimeClips yep, makes sense! I'd go all the way through the floor with a bolt + big washer minimum of course. Was just curious if there was a reason you use that aside from the bigger "bump" as you mentioned. Thanks for the reply!
Do you have any pics of the dirt bike loaded using the tracks you installed,? mountain bike loaded also would be great. Having a hard time picturing how it would work. Other then that it was a very helpful video.
I post a lot of pics to Instagram, and this one was awhile ago. Full transparency as well, after I got done doing the floor I got a message from the guys at Boltiton. They wanted me to try their rack in the van and I haven't given it back. It's been a great addition and I wish I had just bought it originally and not gone through the head ache I did go through drilling and prepping the floors.
Here's the video made when we installed it: th-cam.com/video/HynVJDzse8I/w-d-xo.html
Where did you get that supporting metal you used to distribute the weight underneath the van?
Home Depot, it's called Strut Channel, but if you're an Amazon shopper, it's on there too. amzn.to/2xpe6VZ
Question: you refer to the backing plates as conduit. I am searching for that product but don’t have a proper keyword to find it. What’s it name in the trades so I can find it? Thanks for the video as it gives a method.
Answer found: steel unistrut channel.
NICE. Good job on the googling. Now that I have the Boltiton Rack, I really don't need that support, but here we are. I had a plan, executed it, but then a new plan presented it self.
How much of the coin floor did you buy? Thanks
I bought the 95 Mil Felt Back Small Coin Gray 8ft. On their site the smallest I found was a 20ft roll. I emailed and asked if they had any take off they would sell in a smaller roll. They did and I purchased 15ft.
I love thinsulate, but it's not the right material for underfloor.
Do tell more. I'd like those that find this in the future to have as much information on materials to choose as possible.
Currently building a van as well. LOVE Thinsulate but would have to agree that it's not the most effective insulation for floors because as it compresses it looses it's insulating qualities. You'll retain some but not as much as if the insulation were allowed to fully expand. A good alternative would be some sort of foam such as XPS foam board.
@@piccolo6214 Yes I agree, thinsulate only works to its potential when it's not compressed and is able expand to its full 1.5" thickness. The best material I believe is the high density closed cell foam (similar to those thin camping foam rolls). You can get 3/8" thickness to cut thin to put between the floor corrugations, then once level to the top of the corrugations, a full layer of 1/4" thickness. Thinsulate is perfect for the walls and ceiling.
what was the reflective material over wheel wells?
HushMat, to help keep road noise down. amzn.to/36miMv5