Generac Portable Generator Wiring Diagnostic/Overview Part 02
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- An overview of where to test the windings of your stator and rotor. I don't get too specific on values as every generator is different.
***SAFETY FIRST!
This video is meant to be a guide on diagnosing generator problems. There are lethal voltages inside the generator end and must be treated with respect. Serious injury can result if not careful!! If you are uncomfortable working on these type of machines please leave to a trained professional.
xboxer1985. I just wanted to let you know that I took your advise and I replaced the two 30amp breakers on my Generac 7550exl. I shut down everything and tried running my 3 ton a/c unit again. It worked. The 7550exl alone with the 3 ton a/c now worked. No hunting, surging etc. very steady. The new breakers did not trip as with the old breakers last week.
Thanks, John
John Ambrosino great news to hear!
John Ambrosino be cool to see a video of the machine starting it up
Too many big words for novices, little too fast on the explanations, but nevertheless, you took the time to explain all of this so, I appreciate that very much
Thank you for watching! Yea IMHO novices should not be working on generators. There are lethal voltages inside the generator head that can cause injury. Video was meant for the people who have an intermediate understanding of these machines to perform service on them.
Thank you for information and advice
Yes safety first and careful with testing
I just wanted to take the time to Thank you for your help in fixing my generac 7000exl. My generator worked fine when given 12v directly to the brushes and my avr and stator all fell into specs I bought a new avr as you suggested which didnt fix the problem. I tested the stator with a 25 watt light bulb as u suggested and worked fine. Long story short all my problem was the number 0 green yellow ground wire was burnt from 1 end to the other I replaced it and everything works like new. Just figured I'd let you know and Thank you again Mike Smith
You are very welcome. Thank youbfor watching
@@Bassguitarist1985 hey bass. i have this same generator (7000exl). it wont produce power. only when i jump the brushes with and external 12VDC battery, i get 35ishVAC at the receptacles and directly at the wires themselves. The DPE wires get a little more around 46VAC. according to the manual, I am supposed to get 60VAC. The resistance spec is .25 ohms on the power leads and i get .6, so to my understanding this means the resistance is too high and the stator is no good.
on another note, the battery is dead and the rear rectifier had a burnt contact on one of the outside tabs. so the rectifier is no good as well. I tried swapping the battery and rectifier with known good ones on the 13a (blue wire coming from battery) and it will blow the 10amp inline fuse every time.)
With the engine running, i tried measuring voltage at the 77,77a,66, and 66a battery charge windings and get nothing at all.
i tried pluggin in the float charger and the thing blew up after a couple of minutes and stopped working!
If my understanding and testing procedures are correct, than i understand all of this means that the stator is no good, but what i do not understand is what actually is making it no good? are the power windings open since the resistance is high? and what is going on with the battery charge windings? thank you for sharing your knowledge in this video, i am just curious to know what is actually going on with my specific fault. i am a newbie to electricity trouble shooting as you can tell..
@ sounds like stator trouble. The BCW windings are the first to burn as they are very thin. Float charger burning up, burnt rectifier, either caused by reverse battery leads, or someone jumped the battery in reverse.
Heated windinga due to short circuit or reverse polarity, even if winding resistance spec is in range or close, insulation breakdown will cause failure under load. Hard to say more without looking at the machine.
@@Bassguitarist1985 okay thank you so much. I really appreciate your feedback and this video helped me a lot! guess its off to the scrap bin with this one since the stator is like 400 bucks :( might as well buy a new generator from harbor freight for this upcoming connecticut winter.
@ yea agreed its costly. Supposedly we are going to have a much more snowy winter this year in our area. My utility is underground so highly unlikely I'd ever lose power at all. Still wont ever sell my machine cuz murphys law denotes I would lose it for a long period if I didnt have it lol.
Cheers!
Hey thanks I think this video is going to help me out. I got a Generac.400XL Old one brushed, and when I took the alternator off because the motor seal was leaking so I had to split it in half and put silicone in between the gasket on both sides but when I took the alternator off, some of the wires came loose on me so I think this video helped me out
@Bassguitarist1985 Thanks for these videos. I am glad to be able to learn about the inner workings of GENERAC generators! What happened to parts 3, 4, and 5? They seem to be missing, or maybe I just don't know how to find them.
Hey! At the time I had the various parts but I consolidated them to this video. I deleted some of them pertaining to the board repair. They lacked in good guidance, plus I now repair them for a fee through my LLC.
@@Bassguitarist1985 OK thanks!
Thanks I think this vedio gave me a fair direction on how to go about doing such diagnostic checks on such genset.
Hello, I’m new to your channel and actually got the link to it from James Condons channel. He was working on the same generator I have and needed a board rebuilt. I’m not sure if you still repair these Generac voltage boards, but if you do how would I reach out to show you a picture of the one I have? Thanks and sorry if this is the wrong way to ask.
No worries at all. Email me at my screen name at Yahoo dot com
Thank you for this video, very informative and much more detailed than others. Stay safe! "It's all about the Bass"😎
Glad it was helpful!
@@Bassguitarist1985 how can I contact you about control board issues on my generac 6500 megaforce? Need to send to you
I find that this is a very interesting video. My generator, a Generac 7550EXL has lost output. I will use the information on the video to trouble shoot the problem to get my unit back in operation. As you have indicated that there is leafull voltage coming off the unit. My back ground is an eletrical engineer, so I understand what can happen if you are not extremly careful. Once again many thanks for posting the video.
Glad I can be of help. if you need further help. I'm on smokstak.com often for more in depth troubleshooting. Generators has become a power hobby of mine since losing power so often with the weather lately
***** Many thanks for your reply. I was lucky to be able to bring my generaot back to life. What I was able to do was just flash the field by using a varyable speed corded dril ro re-excite the field. One again many thanks for your great instructional video on trouble shooting generator problems.
Great content, i have the same generator, i need to order some parts ,but the info tag isnt on the shield. Meed the board for the brushes where the pde winding and the neushes go to. And possibly the green circuit board/ avr?
If you have those oem can you send by. I so james condon send you the rectifier yo you and you rebuilt them , do you offer that option.
Thanks Dan
Hey Dan, yes I do rebuild the 84132GS and 83970GS boards. The brush assembly is readily available as it is a wearable item. Send me an email and we can discuss costing. My sn at Yahoo dot com
It's funny but the simplest switch can be the problem I had my trip switch set to off and so I had no AC. Well now I do thanks to a little diagnostics. I think a generator wiring diagram would be useful for a general understanding of the wiring. What I found useful was finding the power wires from the winding stators and working towards the AC/DC outlets. If you haven't got the specs though it's a hit and miss. What I would like to ask though is how do I test a Hz on a generator using a multimeter? Thanks for your time. Robert
if the multimeter supports measuring HZ its easy to measure it from hot to hot or hot to neutral
Yes, I've watched several of there videos. I will definitely get in touch with you regarding these boards if repairs are needed and From my research the mother board is no longer being made. I was lucky when I purchased mine 3 years ago. I purchased it as a back up. Wasn't cheap. $123.00 but I have 2 of the same units and I thought it was a wise investment. I do like this unit. Once every 6 to 8 weeks I shut down all and excerize both units for aproxmitly 2 hrs. each. Is this the best place to get in touch with you? Thanks. John
John Ambrosino yup. If you can pm me, i can share my contact info there.
To Bassguitarist1985 I appreciate the troubleshooting info. I have a generac control board 83970 and voltage reg board 84132 that are suspect. Can you do a test and repair turn around on these for less than replacement cost?
Yes I could. You can email me at my sn at yahoo dot com
@@Bassguitarist1985 I can mail the boards to you tomorrow
I have the generac7550 exl not producing any power your generator shows the exact same set up and wire colors but in your video you mention what numbers you should get when testing different wires but you didn't mention if you get a different reading what does it mean in regards to the generator
BG1, finally have my craigslist find Exl7550 running like new! Thanks for your help. I installed a new power regulator that brought back 120/240 and the 12v charging curcuit when a load/ battery in need of charge is connected. I also had an issue where the NEW oil pressure sensor was not getting 8psi minimum and gen. would shut off within a minute af starting. I drained the oil, looked very clean, removed the oil filter and oil filter flange. I was then able to access the oil screen tube. It did not look like it had and debris after a quick look. I cleaned it with solvent reinstalled it with fresh oil and new filter and now have the gen
operating like new. Must have been a partial clogged screen along with a partially clogged oil filter. Could not have done it without your help. Thanks again.
So....maybe the oil viscosity was to low. You might increase the oil viscosity by 5 or ten to avoid any further low oil pressure shutdowns. I suggest you put some Prolong in the engine oil as well; it will protect it even with no oil in the crank case, I know this from running a vehicle with no oil in it for 70 miles and it was not making any noise or damaged in any way. Now I use Prolong in everything I have except my motorcycle (it would cause clutch slippage). This stuff really does bullet proofs combustion engines. Or any metal to metal moving parts. I put some on my electric razor blades and the screen just above the blades and they last forever.
You all prolly dont care at all but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow lost my login password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me.
@Reign Ben instablaster ;)
@Toby Colt thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
xboxer1985. Thank you for this valuable info. Yes it is a double pole 30a. I do have an original B&S 30a breaker for this unit, I'll give it a try. I was also thinking after I wrote to you, I am running this unit on natural gas and maybe that's why not getting the same power as gasoline or propane. I also have a second unit exactly the same. Not really looking to run the a/c unit as it is not critical back-up. I was more curious than anything else. I like to learn. I will also look into the soft start capacitor kit. How do you test for the exact wattage any generator is putting out? running or surge? This would be great to know. Again, Thank You John
John Ambrosino natural gas has less BTUs and there is a slight derate over gasoline, like 10% or so depending on engine condition/age. What you will see is that the engine will hunt/surge and not be able to maintain speed (and this voltage) once you reach max output derated. Simply not a powerful enough explosion. You could try closing the gap on the spark plug slightly to get a more powerful hotter spark. Make sure valve lash is adjusted properly, and leaner is better on gaseous fuels. Mine is converted to tri fuel as well from US Carb, actually looking to be a dealer for them soon.
To measure wattage is simply amps times volts. A decent DMM and clamp meter can facilitate both measurements. Ive seen some cool setups with voltage, amperage, and wattage meters built into an external panel measuring each half phase on a portable. Very useful in my eyes for relatively little cost.
Happy New Year xboxer1985. I have seen during my searches on the internet a Generac 7550exl the same as mine and yours with a 50 amp twist lock which ours do not have. I'm wondering how you would use and why a 50 amp receptacle was placed on the generator when you only have 30 amp breakers. In-addition, would you be able to use both 30 amp receptacles at the same time? Can you run 2- 30 amp lines from the 2- 30 amp receptacles to the electrical panel? Or is the generator just 30 amps in total? Can you add a 50 amp plug to our generators? Just curious. As always Thank You for all your expertise. John
John Ambrosino john. Happy New Year. Some later revisions did have a 50A NEMA 14-50R equipped on the panel, but no you cannot get 50A from the machine. 7550 watts is 29A at 240VAC or 58A at 120VAC, so no, cant use both 30A plugs simultaneously. The 50A plug is wired to the 30A CBs. The reason you find it on a generator with only 30A capacity is convenience for setups that have a 50A plug inlet but allows a smaller generator to run on it. This an alternative than making/buying an L14-30 to L14-50 adapter.
Thank you for your fast reply. Extremely helpful as always.
Yes I'd like to know if I remove the brushes or brush assembly if I put one lead of my ohms meter on the brush itself and one on the tab should I get a rating of zero ohms
Thank you so much for your video
Is it normal for your voltage regulator to explode my niece look like a mov exploded
Yes if overloaded or shorted. Sometimes the components just internally fail with repeated heat cycles.
@@Bassguitarist1985 thank you so much for your reply I have the Generac 4000exl in your opinion should I buy the voltage regulator coil all ohm out correctly such a beautiful motor on these days
@@johnfarias7230 its worth fixing imo
What's your name on the smokestack?
xboxer1985. Thank you for all the video's. I have a Generac 7550exl with a 13500 surge. Do you think our generators are able to handle a 3 ton central a/c unit? I tried once. I shut down all breakers, started the generator, than put on the air handler and a/c unit. To my surprise it took the surge and was running but for only about 4 mins. than the a/c side breaker tripped ( on the generator not the panel). The side with the air handler continued to run. I did not want to try it again in fear that I may damage the a/c compressor. What are your thoughts?
Just an FYI: I'm using a Champion 12yc cooler plug than the 14yc which is required to be used when running the this unit the 7550exl, or 7000exl on regular gasoline. Gaped at .20 as per Champion.
John Ambrosino the push to reset breakers do wear out. They may need replacing. If the AC is dou le pole breakered at 30A it should run it, but you cannot run anything else with it, period. You are rwally maxing it out, and a 3 ton AC is not a critical backup, unless you deem it so. The PTR breakers are thermal trip and can run 120% of their load for a specific period of time.
You may try installing a soft start capacitor to the compressor to help with surge startups. This unit is NOT 13.5k surge, more like 10-11k at best. The ultimate upgrade for any AC unit is a "Sure Start." This unit will drop the Lock Rotor Amperage nearly 70% in some cases.
Best of luck
John Ambrosino it is also possible to sync two of these generators together, granted its not very easy to do, and when synced its hard to balance the load between them correctly.
Hello, Thank You for the detailed explanations! I have a question though. I am measuring the slip rings and in Ohms I get open circuit, however when I check while the engine is running (AVR Disconnected) I am getting 12.6 VDC. Unit is a Generac GP7500E. All the other windings check out per your information. Is the generator toast or am I missing something?
What are you trying to measure at the slip rings? Are you trying to measure the resistance between them? Or are you trying to measure the DC voltage when the engine is running?
@@Bassguitarist1985 Sorry I mis typed. the 12.6vdc had the AVR connected. I am getting about 6VAC with engine running at the brushes AVR not connected. I measured in Ohms at the slip rings first between + and -, got open circuit. Generator is making no power and I am trying to diagnose. Thanks
@@rcpilot82 measure the ohms between the slip rings or you can also go and measure at the brush head assembly where the AVR connects. Without the AVR and circuit you should see about 8 ohms or so at the slip rings and slightly higher if you measure through the brush assembly as they are carbon heads which act as a resistor.
@@Bassguitarist1985 OK, I did that and am getting an open circuit. So that means the windings have failed the and the rotor is junk. Thank you for the quick replies!!
@@rcpilot82 on the GP series typically the wire right at the connector you would have to possibly take off the end bell to see the end of the rotor. Where the wire is soldered to the lug that leads to the slip rings. That has likely broken off from the centrifugal force. If that's the case you should be able to resolder it but you will need a silver bearing solder if the wire is aluminum instead of copper.
Great video. I have a Generac 7000EXL that has no AC output.
The battery has been dead for a few months and I have jumped it the last two times I used it. The last time it worked for a few days then stopped generating AC. I flashed the field with a drill. Didn't work. I will try with battery next. Is it possible it is as simple as having the dead battery providing no field excitation voltage? I have a new battery installed .
Thanks for your videos.
Starter battery does not excite the rotor field. I'd concentrate looking at the VRB and test the resistances make sure nothing is burnt.
***** I checked all resistances and they are fine. No burnt components. With a 12 volt battery connected to the brushes I get 105 volts AC and 7 volts DC. Didn't check 220. After reconnecting the wiring no AD or DC output again. Would you suspect system control board or power regulator board?
And am wondering most likely components to fail.
Thanks,
Jim
Jim Roberts Power regulator board is bad for sure if all resistances are in spec. Buy a new one, plug it in, and WITHOUT the 3 pin white connector connected, see if you get high voltage. Should see 62hz and say 170VAC at the duplex outlet. This condition is expected. If speed is off, correct at the governor adjustment screw. If you get this condition, then try reconnecting the 3 pin connector which attached the system control board to the power regulator board. If the voltage stays high, or turns off, the system control board needs repair. Then trytThe blue pot on the left of the control panel which regulates voltage with adjustment. If it does not adjust then SCB needs repair
Very good. Was able to diagnose problem with my 7000EXL not charging.
Best information yet on Control panel wiring. Have a 15000e general which has a 10 amp fuse that pops every time I try to weld a bead. 240 V 50 Amp breaker does not trip. Control Panel 10 Amp fuse pops every time. What can be the cause?
Louis Domonte hard to say, whats the model and revision? 10 amp fuse? could you post a video?
I got 80 ohms at the connectors on the brushes… I assume that’s too high. What is my next step. I removed the brushes and checked the slip ring and got 7.6 ohms
@@jwilli850 yes too high. Try putting 12 volts to brushes. If you get output voltage, PRB and possibly the SCB have failed. Both can be repaired
Hi Bass. I have a 4000XL, pretty similar to the inside of the one you are working on here. I have .7 ohms on the power windings. With the VRB remove and powering the brushes with 12v, I am getting 80V out of each winding , and 95V on the DTE. What are your thoughts on this?
Ohm readings look right, but I question your engine speed. Verify it is 62.5hz no load. Next you need to make sure the DPE windings can support a load, connect a 25 watt incandescent bulb to it and hit the brushes with 12 volts. If you see the bulb light, stator and rotor are good, then the key is focusing on the VRB and the SCB.
@@Bassguitarist1985 Thank you for the reply. When I was working on it yesterday, I did put a 1200W heat gun on it while powering the brushes with 12V, and it held the load at about 79 volts AC. I will check the speed and get back with you.
@@Bassguitarist1985 I snuck out and checked. I didn't hook the 12V battery to the brushes b/c the 4-5V AC it is making was enough for my meter to read 58hz. I will need to adjust that up and recheck what I am getting for max voltage out of the windings with 12V attached to the brushes. A friend of mine said I may need more than 12V to get higher than 80V from the windings. That sound correct? I don't want to melt anything applying 24V
@@skroesen He is correct 12VDC is half the voltage the VRB puts out...at full load. Without the SCB connected you would see something like 24VDC and like 175VAC on the duplex outlets. The VRB is a current source not a voltage source.
Bassguitarist1985 okay, another update. I have it at 63hz. I used (2) 12v, 6.0Ah batteries in series across the brushes and it produces 122vac on the panel now.
Great vids. I was checking my older generac generator and I don't see any voltage regulator in the end bell just a brush set. I was wondering if I could install a voltage regulator it's a 5250 max 4200 continuous.
it would depend on the model and serial#. Some machines are brush type alternators and others are brushless with a capacitor and rotating rectifier assembly on the rotor. If you have the model# you can find the schematics and see what the parts list calls for.
Some generators have the regulator behind the power panel
Flash means a momentary connection, engine running is useless when magnetizing field winding.
My 12 volt battery connection to the generator smoked out. It had battery reversed connection. There is no fuse in the circuit like you have. Anyway, when I opened the cover I see that the bridge rectifier plastic insulator covers on the connector wires are melted . The terminals came right out of the rectifier. My concern is that the generator windings are fried as well. I checked the ohms and looks like about 0.5. But I can also measure very small resistance to the generator frame (ground). Should the 12 volt windings be grounded? Also, can I run without connecting the 12 volt circuits? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Add the fuse and replace the rectifiers. The battery charge windings do have a continuity to ground at its midpoint. See if you get any AC output going into the rectifiers and then see if it will support a DC load
@@Bassguitarist1985 Thanks alot for the super fast response. I already ordered the recitifier and will add the fuse. Appreciate the help.
@@willytwo53072 sounds good. You can check for VAC output in the meantime. Whether it will support a load remains to be seen. Careful, 66/77 are higher amperage than 66a/77a which is for the starter battery. The lower A/C voltage will be the telling factor
opened up the back like you said ,no wires or electronics , is it possible there up between the motor ?
ray conway no electronics where, insode the electrical panel where the outlets are? You can see in another video of mine the inside of the panel
bought a 7000 exl generator that runs but doesn't have the panel for the outlets. how can I connect the wires directly out of the stator unit to a transfer box? would appreciate some guidance.
i would not recommend such a setup. replace the panel. it has the circuit breakers, neutral ground bond jumper, etc.
A Generac 4000 is putting out 150vac and 305vac. Tried the avr trimpot but saw zero voltage change on the output. Also noticed that when you flip on the auto-throttle, the output voltage drops to about 60ish vac. Would you surmise at this point that the avr is toast?
No the power regulator board 84132gs in the end bell of the power head is working. It is the system control board 83970gs in the outlet panel that has failed. That or the 3 pin molex connector has corroded pins. Either way it needs addressing.
@@Bassguitarist1985 Thanks for the quick reply, I'll take a look at those. The system control board is where the trimpot was located.
Would you mind explaining how they could cause the voltage to jump up with the avr working fine? I'd like to understand that more clearly.
@@syberphish I'll be doing a video soon with James Condon on this exact board set.
Basically the system control board is adjusting the power regulator board how much current to feed the spinning rotor. If the control board circuit fails, loses power, or looses connection with the regulator board, the voltage goes high.
@@Bassguitarist1985 ohhhhh gotcha, okay that makes sense. I'll be looking forward to see that video when you get it out. Thanks so much for your help.
Edit: ouch, $250 for that board.
@@syberphish i repair the 83970GS boards for $125 USD plus USPS shipping & Paypal Fees. Shoot me an email if you are interested. Best to send both boards to verify function in tandem together.
Hey man do you have video parts 3-5 I don't see them listed on your page. I'm a generac tech and can't even find a diag manual for the gen end. Generac tech support was no help. They contributed the engine and frame for the unit and Briggs supplied the gen end.. I have the engine manual but can't find anything on the power end.
Hey bud. Sorry thise videos i made private awhile back. Are you just needing the wiring diagram for the gen end and outlet oanel? If so partstree com should have that.
@@Bassguitarist1985 Thanks so much for getting back to me! I got the wiring diagram from the owners manual. But i'm looking for some troubleshooting. I've been through at least 15 threads on smokestak and found some ohm readings and testing procedures. I changed the dpe board blown rectifier and it made voltage. Then the customer called back the next week and said it wasn't making power again sure enough that new board smells burnt. I'm thinking about just putting a sx460 in it and calling it good. Screw the idol and charger lol
@@robt9993 which board the system control board or the voltage regulator board? Im bassplayer1985 on smokstak
@@Bassguitarist1985 the sealed board in the back end that the dpe (VR?) and brushes hook up 2 was the one that failed 2x. First time was probably moisture though (bad location). Although the (systemboard?) In the receptacle enclosure has the voltage adjustment pot in it. I looked at the board in the recept box and that looked fine. The battery charging and dc output rectifiers were fine. Windings weren't open or shorted. Brushes were ok 10 ohms and cleaned the slip rings.
@@robt9993 the 84132gs VRB board there is a schematic and parts list there. The 83970GS SCB had MANY revisions. Slightly different parts but the circuit operated the same. I repair them.
If you keep frying VRB boards, sure the customer isnt overloading? SCB could very well be damaged too
You say the rotor should show between 10 -12 ohms across the brush spades. I get a variety of readings depending on the rotors position. I get from below 12 ohms to well over 200 ohms at different positions.
Brushes are dirty or worn. The slip rings may also need polishing too.
Ok I'll give the slip rings a closer look. Thanks for the quick reply.
Anytime bud! I have google on my phone so it comes right up
I finally got my 7000EXL up and running thank you for your help and input. My problem was simply dumb and doesnt make sense. The black ground wire that you have a red butt connector on that runs up to the panel needs to be grounded apparently. Quick question in regards to the rectifiers. All my wires coming out are brown and have been cut and lost their number stamps. Except for 077. Does it actually matter wich wires are connected together in the rectifier circuits?
Yes, one is a 10A and the other is a 2A for the starter battery. Mix them up and you will boil that battery up!
@@Bassguitarist1985 is there a way to tell wich ones are supposed to b together because they r all brown if I knew which pairs went together I could figure out wich put out 10 amps and which put out 2 amps
@@mikesmith4258 the higher voltage pair should be the 10A pair and the lower voltage the 2A. I have an old thread on smokestack that has the exact spec you need
@@Bassguitarist1985 do you happen to have a link? I actually joined smokestack awhile ago just to talk with you!
@@mikesmith4258
77-66: Measured 18VAC from those two leads
77A-66A: Measured 15.3VAC from those two leads.
55-77 is about 10.1VAC and 55-77A is around 7.2VAC volts.
?thank you very much Do u have any videos about how to rewind the stator which is in this generator
sorry I do not. such a task requires a machine shop with specialized tools to perform such a task it is not something that can be done at the home workbench
Bassguitarist1985 i have a generac 7550 exl, i did the test as you explane in your video i got 3 volts and 80 to 93 ohms for the brush, i test the gray and red wire and i got 4 to 5 volts also the red and blue also gave me 4 to 5 volts, i also check the ohms on the red and blue wires and got 1 to 31 ohms fluctiates...what dose all this mean in regards to the generator
Resistance too high on brushes. Nomore than 2.5ohms on dpe. Somethings wrong woth your readings
Seems one could just remove wires to brush holder to avoid toasting the regulator while 'flashing'
That's what i do...now :-)
Why do you think the dpe would burn up? I am attempting to rewire one like this with a dpe that got really hot.
A failing AVR possibly caused by defect or overload. Not sure you can rewire, aka steal power from the main windings to power the AVR. The DPE wires are offset by 90⁰ degrees to facilitate self excitement. If you are able to use some of the main windings to run the AVR, it will need to be flashed every time, and the overall generator capacity (especially surge capacity) would need to be de-rated.
@@Bassguitarist1985 ya. Avr. Thats what I was afraid of. I will probably just get a replacement cause im terrible at soldering
Unfortunately the DPE and bcw windings are the first to fail on portable generators because of their physical size they are very small. Often times I see a ton of load on one side of the generator and it is not properly balanced between the two hot legs. That can create excessive heat in the components and cause premature failure as well.
@@Bassguitarist1985 ok i successfully repaired the dpe winding and replaced the big rectifying diode (shorted hard) as well as the scr (no obvious fault) now I have voltage! But its 144v. What could cause that? Scb?
@@danielmiller8490 try adjusting the potentiometer on the left side of the outlet panel. BUT Before you do that, set the engine speed first. It should be 62hz no load. If the pot does nothing to adjust voltage, then the SCB needs work
B85, put the new power regulator in and am now getting 120 and 240. Work well on econ. setting too after adjusting the solenoid. Thanks. However, engine battery charge circuit only 7 vdc and plug on panel
only 8 vdc. Any thoughts ?
Joseph Syring yes that is pulsating DC voltage. Thats normal to find. 8VDC is the RMS average voltage. Your starter battery should be greater than 12.8vdc with engine running full speed and it charging the starter battery. Can you confirm?
I am pretty sure I was running the engine at full speed yesterday when taking the charging reading. I will double check later today when I am back with the generator.
Joseph Syring make sure its 3750rpms 62hz at no load before measuring
B85, I don't have a device that can measure rpms. This eve I manually increased the rpms to a speed higher than the governed speed and the voltage at the panel and batt. charge circuit increased about 0.4 vdc. The battery is not installed since the one that came with the gen. had one if not two dead cells. I purchased a new one and am awaiting delivery. Does not having the batt. installed effect charging voltage ?
Joseph Syring yes it does
help!! i have a coleman vertex 8000 with the winding completly burned, i already windit but i just cant remember how the conection of the stator is, can you help me with some kind of diagram or something. its just 3 wires that i completly forget by the way thanks for all the helpfull vids awesome!!
Christian Magaña Hard to say, normally on a generac or briggs wire 11 and 44 are the hot and 22 is the neutral. colors of the wires can vary.
Whew must of watched 25 video's of fixing generac generators but when I got into it to check ohms of stator found a broken wireless connector.
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Cheers for this video , it's very useful to me .....many thanks
Bass85, I have a Generac 7550 EXL, runs no power. Disconnected and removed voltage regulator. Started engine and jumped brushes with 12v. Dpe wires then put out 180 VAC and duplex outlet put out almost as much , maybe 174. Reassembled and sterted, no output. Seems like a bad regulator but isn't 180 VAC high when only supplying 12 VDC to brushes ? I bought this gen. several days ago knowing it did not produce power. Thanks for the vids. Joe S.
Joseph Syring if the resistance specs check out and the DPE supports a load like a 25 watt incandescent light when you hit the brushes with 12 volts, then yeah id say bad regulator. The SCB regulates from 175 down to 120 at the duplex outlets
Bassguitarist1985 Resistance is 2.6 ohms across DPE leads. Then, red to ground/generator case is 2.6. However blue to ground/ generstor case is 0.3. I am much more familiar with resedential wiring than generators. Is this still pointing to the regulator ?
Joseph Syring so far i would say yes. Blue 6 is bonded to 22 neutral inside the stator so that makes sense. Try repairing or replacing the voltage regulator first if you get high voltage without the three pin white connector attached to it.
If you do get high voltage then plug back in the white snubber connector 3 pin and see if it brings the voltage down to normal and you may have to adjust the blue potentiometer on the left side of the control panel. If that has no effect on the voltage then your system control board has burnt out and needs to be repaired.
Thanks Bass, I will let you know how things go after new regulator install.
Joseph Syring will do, if your SCB needs repair I can fix it
Need connection diagram for stator, rotor, avr and diode rectifier
Really thankful if you help
Usman Abdullah a google search of your model# on say parts tree or repairclinic.com will get you the diagrams you need
I have watched numerous videos of yours possibly all of them trying to figure out what is wrong with my generac 7000EXL is there a way I can message you? I joined smokestack in an attempt to get into contact with you. thank you Mike Smith
Mike Smith you can message me privately here on TH-cam. ill try to help best i can.
xboxer1985
I have a generac 7000exl that only putting out 5.6volts I have tested the Auto voltage rectifier and control board. When tested I found that both were dead nuts on the money for ohms as per specs u stated in all of your videos. (I wrote the values down on a note pad instead if trying to buffer the video and test at the same time) My snubber feed back has 118.8 ohms between 2&3. So I flashed the field. I first tried it with a drill no luck. Than i jumped the brushes with 12 volts and got 120 volts at my outlets. Shut it off hooked everything up still 5.6 volts. Upon testing my windings I found that my dbe winding has 6.63 ohms which according to one of your videos it is only supposed to be between 2 and 3 ohms. While giving the brushes 12v I was getting between 77-79 volts off of my DBE windingings coming into my AVR. Is that acceptable readings to be getting? If so were do i go from here?!? Thank you Mike Smith
Sounds like your AVR is burned out. DPE ohms is high, but that could be a dirty connector. The control board may have been fried too. If you put a new AVR in without the white 3 pin connector you will get high voltage at the outlets. IF when you reconnect the 3 pin and the voltage doesn't change, you may have a problem with the control board or it simply may need to be adjusted. there is a voltage adjustment pot on the left of the control panel.
xboxer1985 I tested the AVR. between spade 1 and pin 1 I got 0.00 ohms. between spade 1 and pin 2 I got 68.2 ohms. between spade 1 and pin 3 I got 50.9 ohms. between pin 2 and 3 I got 119 ohms. The diode with red lead towards spade connectors was OL. Red lead away 0.701. Red lead on white brush connector and black on black was nothing. Red lead on black and black on white is 0.704. Thank you Mike Smith
Mike Smith okay, bext thing you need to check before buying a new avr is test the DPE winding, red and blue wires 2 and 6. while hitting the brush leads with 12 volts, connect a 25 watt bulb between wires 2 and 6 while running the engine. if it lights at all but dim, then the winding is good. if it don't, then the winding is shot and unless you want to buy a new stator before getting a new AVR.
cheers
I'll try tomorrow to get the video. John
I need a wiring diagram for a generator 4000 white 3500 champion generator switch from 2:20 to 1:20 I need the wiring diagram to the switch
If you know the model number you can punch that in on champions website and they should have a full wiring schematic for your model to review
I'm trying to see if brushes are good
Chris Shideler thry are easy enough to check, two bolts
My gen was under water last April & was not started till last week . The engine runs fine , but the gen. is not putting out any power . Have done nothing to gin. What should be my first step .
Herb
Throw the gen head in the trash, water destroys the insulation of the windings almost 100% of the time
Thanks not what I wanted here. But it is what it is.
I have a generac 7000 exl generator when I hook power to the battery it starts smoking from the generator part any advice
Stator and/or rotor insulation has broke down causing a short. It will need to be replaced
@@Bassguitarist1985 how do I know witch one is bad
@@Bassguitarist1985 and how much do they cost
@@shannoncarroll3600 sadly way more than what you would pay for a new generator of the same size. The stator is likely the problem, not the spinning rotor. stator can run you $375 USD to $425 USD depending where you order from.
@@shannoncarroll3600 if you get 7.5 ohms from slip ring to slip ring on the rotor, that should be fine. The stator has all the windings you need to test, but since yous released the magic smoke dont bother. cant put the genie back in the bottle as they say.
What would be wrong when the generator (Generac 17500) is putting out 180 volts or more on one side (L1 to Netural) and 60 volts on the other side (L2 to Netural). When connect to house we blow several different components. I had a dealer come out and replace the VR and charge me $145.00 plus $125.00 labor and problem still exist. No refund. Next I paid a guy $145.00 to come out and he said Stator was bad but I didn't see him check it the way you did. The stator is over $500.00 and I not sure if I should get this if there may be another cause to my problem. Generator is 2 years old but only 32 hours on it. (No warrenty) Last time I used it had no problems. Please help if you can.
What model# exactly? check out my video on the 15kw Generac ultra source, same problem. th-cam.com/video/-OlUP-lSpwM/w-d-xo.html
It can go one of two ways, its either a loose neutral lug inside the generator, loose neutral inside the stator which is bad, or the ground/neutral are reversed. My problem was a loose neutral at the 50A plug. You getting unbalanced voltage at the generator as well when the generator is not connected to the house? What method are you using to connect your house? T-Switch? Interlock? Lots of variables, help me out here.
Thanks for the quick response. The Model is a GP1750E (0057351) SN# 6840943. I have a Generac 6380 50 amp manual transfer switch. I am using interloc connections. I did check all the ground and neutral at the transfer switch and are ok. I saw your u-tube video you mention and that is what my unit seems to be doing. I will check the neutral at the 50A plug at the generator as I did not check this. Should I be also doing that neutral to ground circute like you did? Is this video the proper way to check the stator or can I just disconnect the 44 and 11 wires at the panel and check the resistence from the wires coming from the stator? What should the ohms be? I can't see how a stator can go bad by just setting for 4 weeks. the last time I used it I had no problems and did not blow anything in the house.
pdfstream.manualsonline.com/0/0cbbf673-1de1-475a-9fe2-c70d8cdc7ae5.pdf
that diagnostic manual will give you step by step how to test your stator and rotor. The GP15000E is the same as the Ultra Source 15KW, except the ultrasource has no hour meter built in. The Neutral to ground bond is only for when the generator is used stand alone not connected to a transfer switch. The GP15k has a floating neutral, so it must be bonded by the main panel in your house.
Do the tests with the generator by itself not connected to the t switch on your house. Open the panel and verify the neutral is solidly connected first. Then use the step by step instructions to measure ohm resistances of the windings. You need to disconnect C1 to do this.
If any of this info doesnt make sense to you, you should hire someone who is familiar with the machine., Obviously not the people you have brought it to since they seem to take your money and not help you.
So as I understand it I should make sure the Neutral Bar in the transfer switch is bonded to the box it self.
I can do this by screwing the green screw into the Neutral Buss bar and making contact to the metal box or by connecting the green wire from the generator to the White neutral buss bar along with the white. Is this correct? Thanks for all the help. I have been doing all the testing at the generator. I will down load the manual and test as instructed.
No, transfer switch is concidered a sub panel. The neutral and ground bars must be separated per NEC code (assuming you live in the States) the neutral and ground bars will be bonded together at the main panel only.
Thank you much.
xboxer1985. Again, thank you for all the 411. Yes, I'm a US Carb client myself. If you Become a representative for US Carb they will benifit from that greatly. If the time should ever arrive I would like to be able to send you my mother board or AVR to be repaired. Very hard to get these parts now although I do have one of each brand new in the box. John.
Certainly, I've chatted with Hue and brian the business unit guy. Both them and the company are very down to earth genuinely run a good business. They do videos on ytube and facebook to take live questions and troubleshooting. Not many companies do that and I see a benefit from doing that stuff. I do repair these boards and got a few spares myself. Sadly the control board isn't made anymore I think. I dont see any alternate part numbers either. Bottom line, plenty of research done for parts and repair how to's for them with me!
I just tried to open an account but it has not been approved yet.Can you text me?
I don't give out my personal information.
Thank you
My pleasure thank you for watching!
Thank you