Glad I found this, I regreased my inverted struts about 2-3 weeks ago, which fixed the noise, but first rainy trip up a dirt road and the noise is back, so I started thinking it was something else. My car does the exact same thing jacking it up. So I guess I've got a busy Saturday for Sunday's track day. *sigh*
I had the same issue with my BC Coilovers RM Type. I ended up buying replacement shocks and rebuilt them. Hasn't made any noise since then. Like you said, this happens from running race car parts on the street which is not a race car environment.
Is the pre-load set a bit too tight? I’ve had a popping sound issue on my fortune auto coils. I loosened them up n wiped the “seating” area for the spring which helped.
Pre-load is a misnomer. These are purpose built race shocks so the entire body is threaded and they are one piece. This means you adjust your ride height via that collar. Fortune Auto uses a three piece design to cut costs but, even then, the right way to adjust ride height with those is to use the collars under the spring too. You would just want to take the extra step to install them without springs and set the shock length using the bottom collar to a good middle ground of droop/bump. Then install the spring and set ride height that way.
I disagree. You exposed a weak link (no pun intended) or part that either fatigued to failure or was under-engineered for their intended purpose and now it's time to source something more robust. It would sukc to have to pull suspension parts and "clean" them every 4-6 months, even if they are 'race-engineered'. Maybe race-engineered is the problem and you need street-engineered parts as those are more install and forget. Can you show up on your motorcycle for an autox? Even if it didn't count, it would be interesting to see how you do on two wheels vs four. leathers??? [Thursday @ 12:30 doesn't work for me, can you do a different day/time ;) ]
I feel you on cleaning aspect, I've been doing some research and the shops who rebuild these recommend a shock cover for inverted units that are on the street. Regarding motorcycles at autocross they aren't allowed, but I know they would be much slower. A Supermoto would hang better but would still be slower than a car. The reality is contact patch is king at autocross, something the motorcycles are lacking. I've driven Auto Club Speedway in my car many times and when I went on the bike in September I kept thinking to myself, I am going so much slower through these corners!
Switch to bags, get mo camber, get mo low, go mo faster! /s
Best comment yet.
Glad I found this, I regreased my inverted struts about 2-3 weeks ago, which fixed the noise, but first rainy trip up a dirt road and the noise is back, so I started thinking it was something else. My car does the exact same thing jacking it up. So I guess I've got a busy Saturday for Sunday's track day. *sigh*
If your car is not ready for the next BMW autocross, you are welcomed to co-drive my FR-S. It is getting new RE-71Rs this weekend.
That would be fantastic, I will let you know!
I had the same issue with my BC Coilovers RM Type. I ended up buying replacement shocks and rebuilt them. Hasn't made any noise since then. Like you said, this happens from running race car parts on the street which is not a race car environment.
Thanks for the data point, very interesting.
Are those whiteline max g coilovers with swift spring upgrade?
Yes they are!
@@TheDriversPerspective how much will it cost to rebuild a full set of coilovers more or less?
It really depends on the brand, expect at least $100 per shock/strut. I'd budget around $500-1000 depending on what work is getting done.
Is the pre-load set a bit too tight? I’ve had a popping sound issue on my fortune auto coils. I loosened them up n wiped the “seating” area for the spring which helped.
Pre-load is a misnomer. These are purpose built race shocks so the entire body is threaded and they are one piece. This means you adjust your ride height via that collar. Fortune Auto uses a three piece design to cut costs but, even then, the right way to adjust ride height with those is to use the collars under the spring too. You would just want to take the extra step to install them without springs and set the shock length using the bottom collar to a good middle ground of droop/bump. Then install the spring and set ride height that way.
The Driver's Perspective ah ok, a different animal all together there. Hope the rebuild works out!
My noise transferred from the ATX to SD in your car. Sorry brah ;-)
I know right?! I was thinking that as soon as I started digging into this.
I disagree. You exposed a weak link (no pun intended) or part that either fatigued to failure or was under-engineered for their intended purpose and now it's time to source something more robust. It would sukc to have to pull suspension parts and "clean" them every 4-6 months, even if they are 'race-engineered'. Maybe race-engineered is the problem and you need street-engineered parts as those are more install and forget. Can you show up on your motorcycle for an autox? Even if it didn't count, it would be interesting to see how you do on two wheels vs four. leathers??? [Thursday @ 12:30 doesn't work for me, can you do a different day/time ;) ]
I feel you on cleaning aspect, I've been doing some research and the shops who rebuild these recommend a shock cover for inverted units that are on the street.
Regarding motorcycles at autocross they aren't allowed, but I know they would be much slower. A Supermoto would hang better but would still be slower than a car. The reality is contact patch is king at autocross, something the motorcycles are lacking. I've driven Auto Club Speedway in my car many times and when I went on the bike in September I kept thinking to myself, I am going so much slower through these corners!
Whiteline. Good design ideas, but terrible quality.
I reluctantly agree with this statement.