What about the stock spacer that sits at the bottom of the spring forkleg? Does that go back in or get discarded? Somehow after installing the fork legs are 2 different lengths.
Same question. I have a 2017 CRF 250 Rally which has a factory spacer at the bottom of the fork leg, white plastic about 3 inches long. Both Ohlins and stock spring are same length, unsprung. Only makes sense to me that you'd have to leave it installed, which is what I did. To add to the confusion, the FSK 123 kit for this bike also comes with a short aluminum spacer (about 1 inch long) which says it's for a 2017 CRF250L but makes no mention of the Rally version, so I left it out (and again, left the stock spacer in). Would still like to know for sure. Ohlins what do you say?
The video doesn't show how to get to the top bolt of the shock - It says to take off the seat and then goes right to the bottom bolts. I'm trying to figure out how to get to the top bolt on my 2018 CRF250L and was hoping this video would help... Help?
I found on a few other videos - You can wedge a 17mm wrench in there if you come in from the left hand side and pass it under the frame. But it's not a great fit, so I picked up a 17mm crowfoot wrench and used that with an extension to re-install things.
Hello. I have a question: is there any problem with the temperature of the pre-charge bottle being raised due to the location given to it? (above the generator and to the side of the cylinder) After changing the suspension, I used the bike for an hour and the preload bottle was very hot. I'm David, greetings comrades.
I'm James the heat from the engine doesn’t effect the shock/reservoir as much as the compressing and dampening motions, compression equals directly generated heat. None of the bikes i have using Ohlin’s rear shocks have been effected by the engine heat, street or off road..
Great to have the instructional video online, but god, that music incessantly repeating in the background - I had to stop watching a couple of times to get through it.
good suspension quality I guess but the reservoir oil/gas of the shock is too exposed in this position to keep safe off road riding...it should be better to have a reservoir like Showa well inserted into the frame
Michel Larsson as the piston in the shock absorbs energy from bumps, compression and the fluid begins to get hot, there are also nitrogen gas bubbles that start to mix with the fluid, making the shock less effective with continued compressing and rebounding (this is with any shock). By having a reservoir, you increase the duration the shock can provide dampening and the shock will recover faster, because there is more fluid to heat and mix with nitrogen bubbles. Basically, the reservoir makes the shock more effective for longer periods of use. Many stock shocks are good for normal riding. But as soon as you really put the bike through a rugged compression and rebounding... the shock will just slowly lose its power to dampen..
@@marknasia5293 absolute nonsense. Piston doesn't absorb energy, the piston moves through the oil the speed of which is slowed by compression and rebound valves. Gas is kept behind a piston in the reservoir as the last thing you want is gas mixing with the oil as it froths an reduces damping. Dampening means making something slightly wet. And yes I've worked with suspension for many years.
@@HORNET6 you are an idiot, dampening, in terms of suspension doesn’t mean “making wet” First off you are taking my words out of context. When the shock continues to receive input from whatever suspension is giving it, that energy is transmitted through the springs to the piston to the chamber where the oil and nitrogen gas reside. Once the piston continues to move back an forth enough the shock will reach a point to where the oil and gas has mixed enough the ability of the shock to “absorb” input from the suspension begins to depreciate. One oil and gas have mixed enough, or in the case of air or gas only shock, once the energy is transformed into Heat, and the gases are heated enough the shock is no longer able to dampen. And yes Dampen, as in compression dampening and rebound dampening. Which is a setting or a delineation of any professional shock set up. The reason many off road trucks have reservoirs is to increase the amount of fluid that can be present in this process. By increasing the fluid it extends the ability of the shock to dampen as there is more (whatever medium) to permit the shock to continue to work. Trophy trucks are a perfect example the continued input from the suspension will cause the shocks to no longer be able to dampen once the input energy is transformed into form of heat, and the gas and oil mix. First what i stated is not absolute nonsense since you have internet use it before you make yourself look like a complete idiot here is a link, let it be that mirror you look into www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10032/gas-shocks-vs-non-gas-shocks
@@ElementofKindness perhaps for those who want a less maintenance but still off-road capability. I live in Vietnam and the options for real motorcycles are limited. The CFR250L is an option.
Element of Kindness it isn’t a dirt bike set up, it is setting the spring weights to the riders weight. The original bike’s suspension is set for a 120lb rider. The purpose of the upgrade is mostly to set the springs to the rider’s weight, yes preload can adjust within a range, but the best suspension setups require changing of the springs to match rider weight. It has nothing to do with dirt or dual sport etc. the range of the suspension is the same, what will happen is, by tuning (changing the springs to match rider weight) you will get full length/use out of the suspension. You will be able to properly adjust the sag, preload on the rear, the difference it totally noticeable. I have upgraded all my bikes (that Ohlin’s makes mods for) and when i first did it,. My riding friends thought it couldn’t be that different. Everyone that has rode any of the bikes notices the difference instantly. Keeps the wheels on the ground, the steering stabilizers Ohlins sells has almost eliminated 100% of the death wobble, depending how hard you ride, and full use of the range of the front and rear is attained. You can check that by putting a lightly tightened zip/cable tie on the shock shaft. Go for a ride and see how far down the tie moves. Also, being able to adjust the rebound dampening in this case (on the rear) keeps the bike from feeling like it is trying to buck you off, as you crest peaks, jumps etc...
My instructions state the adjustment for the bottom of the shock to be 12 clicks not 20 as stated in the video? and when I turned the adjustment knob all the way into 0 and then turning anti clockwise the clicks are no longer able to be felt while turning out, however with someone sitting on the bike the clicks are heard and felt again? any recommendations from a Ohlins tech would grateful?
These look great, but checking with the UK sellers, they are not available in either the UK or the rest of Europe, as ohlins HQ don't know anything about them !!!
RR Merlin not sure what you are talking about, maybe some distributors have not carried them at the time you searched, as with all new bike models, it takes normally about 6 months for aftermarket parts to catch up with the distributor supply chain.
Wow, that was complicated and prevented me from considering to buy the kit. I can't do it and I'm not sure, even a Honda dealer can do it properly. They should offer the bike from stock with Oehlins as an option. I would gladly pay for it. What time do you think an average dealer would need to do this change?
Thanks a lot for your explanations. Today I've ordered the CRF Rally for an attractive winter bargain price and ordered stiffer front and rear shock. And you were right: The Honda dealer said they'd do it all the time and it is nothing to them. So thank you.
@@StaceySchroederCanada Nah. The stock shocks of CRF250L and CRF250Rally are complete shit (same with the fork springs). Also, forget taking a second rider on the stock shocks. Even if you do 10% off-road only these shocks are a major improvement. You do not have to do "big jumps" to make them worth, they are an overall good tune up for people that can afford it.
Eka Rally i order my Ohlin’s shocks via, FB site. In Indonesia, i am sure Ohlin’s Asia has a site, i contacted them and all my rear shocks i have purchased has been thru Ohlins Asia. Let me tell you, it is a world of difference. So if you get on facebook try a search for Ohlin’s Asia and they will respond and guide you to a point of contact.
I appreciate that they made this video, but man it's frustrating - Neither this video nor the instructions say which fork leg has the spring we're supposed to replace. Plus the instructions say to replace the other fork leg's oil with Ohlins but there's no mention of it on this video. Really disappointed in the product.
jerkychew899 front right, he points it out... it is easy to figure out,. Only one spring is in one fork leg, it is the right front as seen by sitting on the bike
Installed the rear shock yesterday. Dramatic difference over stock. Thank you for the video. It helped.
Do you have part numbers for the CRF300 Rally front and rear?
Do you have to burp the air from the fork?
What about the stock spacer that sits at the bottom of the spring forkleg? Does that go back in or get discarded? Somehow after installing the fork legs are 2 different lengths.
Same question. I have a 2017 CRF 250 Rally which has a factory spacer at the bottom of the fork leg, white plastic about 3 inches long. Both Ohlins and stock spring are same length, unsprung. Only makes sense to me that you'd have to leave it installed, which is what I did. To add to the confusion, the FSK 123 kit for this bike also comes with a short aluminum spacer (about 1 inch long) which says it's for a 2017 CRF250L but makes no mention of the Rally version, so I left it out (and again, left the stock spacer in). Would still like to know for sure. Ohlins what do you say?
preload adjustment states 10mm ?
The video doesn't show how to get to the top bolt of the shock - It says to take off the seat and then goes right to the bottom bolts. I'm trying to figure out how to get to the top bolt on my 2018 CRF250L and was hoping this video would help... Help?
I found on a few other videos - You can wedge a 17mm wrench in there if you come in from the left hand side and pass it under the frame. But it's not a great fit, so I picked up a 17mm crowfoot wrench and used that with an extension to re-install things.
Hello. I have a question: is there any problem with the temperature of the pre-charge bottle being raised due to the location given to it? (above the generator and to the side of the cylinder)
After changing the suspension, I used the bike for an hour and the preload bottle was very hot. I'm David, greetings comrades.
My concern is also heat. For whole day ride on rally how heat effect.
Fantastic video! Big thanks to the team for the demonstration 🤘
all i needed to know except oil qty
where should I install this shock absorber's cylinder in a air cooled engine's enduro
Is there a re-valve kit?
Does the heat from the engine not effect the reservoir?
I'm James the heat from the engine doesn’t effect the shock/reservoir as much as the compressing and dampening motions, compression equals directly generated heat. None of the bikes i have using Ohlin’s rear shocks have been effected by the engine heat, street or off road..
Is it the same kit for the 250 L?
Joseph Winkler yes
U must Showing Before and After 😕
Will this fit on a regular crf 250l?
Yes
Great to have the instructional video online, but god, that music incessantly repeating in the background - I had to stop watching a couple of times to get through it.
good suspension quality I guess but the reservoir oil/gas of the shock is too exposed in this position to keep safe off road riding...it should be better to have a reservoir like Showa well inserted into the frame
It’s a rally, it’s behind the plastics.
Excellent video but really annoying background music
what type of fork and shock?
For me who is totally a newbie, whats the reservoar for?
Thanks
Michel Larsson as the piston in the shock absorbs energy from bumps, compression and the fluid begins to get hot, there are also nitrogen gas bubbles that start to mix with the fluid, making the shock less effective with continued compressing and rebounding (this is with any shock). By having a reservoir, you increase the duration the shock can provide dampening and the shock will recover faster, because there is more fluid to heat and mix with nitrogen bubbles. Basically, the reservoir makes the shock more effective for longer periods of use. Many stock shocks are good for normal riding. But as soon as you really put the bike through a rugged compression and rebounding... the shock will just slowly lose its power to dampen..
@@marknasia5293 absolute nonsense. Piston doesn't absorb energy, the piston moves through the oil the speed of which is slowed by compression and rebound valves. Gas is kept behind a piston in the reservoir as the last thing you want is gas mixing with the oil as it froths an reduces damping. Dampening means making something slightly wet. And yes I've worked with suspension for many years.
@@HORNET6 you are an idiot, dampening, in terms of suspension doesn’t mean “making wet” First off you are taking my words out of context. When the shock continues to receive input from whatever suspension is giving it, that energy is transmitted through the springs to the piston to the chamber where the oil and nitrogen gas reside. Once the piston continues to move back an forth enough the shock will reach a point to where the oil and gas has mixed enough the ability of the shock to “absorb” input from the suspension begins to depreciate. One oil and gas have mixed enough, or in the case of air or gas only shock, once the energy is transformed into Heat, and the gases are heated enough the shock is no longer able to dampen. And yes Dampen, as in compression dampening and rebound dampening. Which is a setting or a delineation of any professional shock set up. The reason many off road trucks have reservoirs is to increase the amount of fluid that can be present in this process. By increasing the fluid it extends the ability of the shock to dampen as there is more (whatever medium) to permit the shock to continue to work. Trophy trucks are a perfect example the continued input from the suspension will cause the shocks to no longer be able to dampen once the input energy is transformed into form of heat, and the gas and oil mix. First what i stated is not absolute nonsense since you have internet use it before you make yourself look like a complete idiot here is a link, let it be that mirror you look into www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10032/gas-shocks-vs-non-gas-shocks
No mention of which spring he went with, or how much oil he added. There is also a spring spacer that comes in this kit-no mention of that, either🤷♂️
Hi. How mutch this change suspension? Total price please?
I wonder why you remove the LH fork leg when you make no changes to it?
Otherwise a useful video 🙏
Refresh with new oil.
Bobby Z agreed with Jeff, when you upgrade to Ohlins springs or a cartridge kit the weight/viscosity of the oil needs to be identical in both forks.
Nice parts! Coming from Ohlins I'm sure is a great improvement
i am sure , chain will ruin the nitogen rezervoir hose when swingram goes up...
What's the cost to upgrade to shocks?$$$$
1000 US$
Honestly, it doesn't make much sense.
If you want a dirtbike setup, why not just get a dirtbike?
@@ElementofKindness perhaps for those who want a less maintenance but still off-road capability. I live in Vietnam and the options for real motorcycles are limited. The CFR250L is an option.
Element of Kindness it isn’t a dirt bike set up, it is setting the spring weights to the riders weight. The original bike’s suspension is set for a 120lb rider. The purpose of the upgrade is mostly to set the springs to the rider’s weight, yes preload can adjust within a range, but the best suspension setups require changing of the springs to match rider weight. It has nothing to do with dirt or dual sport etc. the range of the suspension is the same, what will happen is, by tuning (changing the springs to match rider weight) you will get full length/use out of the suspension. You will be able to properly adjust the sag, preload on the rear, the difference it totally noticeable. I have upgraded all my bikes (that Ohlin’s makes mods for) and when i first did it,. My riding friends thought it couldn’t be that different. Everyone that has rode any of the bikes notices the difference instantly. Keeps the wheels on the ground, the steering stabilizers Ohlins sells has almost eliminated 100% of the death wobble, depending how hard you ride, and full use of the range of the front and rear is attained. You can check that by putting a lightly tightened zip/cable tie on the shock shaft. Go for a ride and see how far down the tie moves. Also, being able to adjust the rebound dampening in this case (on the rear) keeps the bike from feeling like it is trying to buck you off, as you crest peaks, jumps etc...
Does the reservoir not get too hot mounted by the engine ?
My instructions state the adjustment for the bottom of the shock to be 12 clicks not 20 as stated in the video? and when I turned the adjustment knob all the way into 0 and then turning anti clockwise the clicks are no longer able to be felt while turning out, however with someone sitting on the bike the clicks are heard and felt again? any recommendations from a Ohlins tech would grateful?
Be very careful when backing off to 0, it's easy to over do it and the handbook warns of this.
These look great, but checking with the UK sellers, they are not available in either the UK or the rest of Europe, as ohlins HQ don't know anything about them !!!
They are available by several resellers, one of them located in Italy (EU).
RR Merlin not sure what you are talking about, maybe some distributors have not carried them at the time you searched, as with all new bike models, it takes normally about 6 months for aftermarket parts to catch up with the distributor supply chain.
Wow, that was complicated and prevented me from considering to buy the kit. I can't do it and I'm not sure, even a Honda dealer can do it properly. They should offer the bike from stock with Oehlins as an option. I would gladly pay for it.
What time do you think an average dealer would need to do this change?
Thanks a lot for your explanations. Today I've ordered the CRF Rally for an attractive winter bargain price and ordered stiffer front and rear shock. And you were right: The Honda dealer said they'd do it all the time and it is nothing to them. So thank you.
I'm 210lbs, I'm thinking of getting stiffer springs. should I get this entire kit? I plan to do about 70/30 on road/off. thanks!
@@StaceySchroederCanada Nah. The stock shocks of CRF250L and CRF250Rally are complete shit (same with the fork springs). Also, forget taking a second rider on the stock shocks. Even if you do 10% off-road only these shocks are a major improvement. You do not have to do "big jumps" to make them worth, they are an overall good tune up for people that can afford it.
@@Vara91391 how much do they effect on road riding?
Where I can find original product in Bali - Indonesia? Thanks.
Use google lasy ass.
Eka Rally i order my Ohlin’s shocks via, FB site. In Indonesia, i am sure Ohlin’s Asia has a site, i contacted them and all my rear shocks i have purchased has been thru Ohlins Asia. Let me tell you, it is a world of difference. So if you get on facebook try a search for Ohlin’s Asia and they will respond and guide you to a point of contact.
ohlins cikini. pak edi.
good job...💪💪👍👍👍👍
Good job gays.
I appreciate that they made this video, but man it's frustrating - Neither this video nor the instructions say which fork leg has the spring we're supposed to replace. Plus the instructions say to replace the other fork leg's oil with Ohlins but there's no mention of it on this video. Really disappointed in the product.
jerkychew899 front right, he points it out... it is easy to figure out,. Only one spring is in one fork leg, it is the right front as seen by sitting on the bike
If you're such a fuqwit that you cant work that out you should just pay someone to do if for you...which you probably had to anyway.
Whats the part code for front spring.
Fsk123. Use google !
Similar I.Q.’s, however baby is more articulate.
4:45 there is no way you can adjust those with rally fairings on.
Sava Djurcinovski thank Honda for that, :)
The music is awful.
150 again
Music makes this unwatchable