Fuses, Switches, Bus bars, What goes where?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2023
- Fuses, Switches, Bus bars, What goes where?
Hello and welcome to the TH-cam channel for BlueFix Energy Solutions Ltd!
At BlueFix we can design, supply and install Off-grid electrical systems. If you have any questions or would like us to help with you with a project please drop us an email.
luke@bluefix.co.uk
mark@bluefix.co.uk
Or visit our website
www.bluefix.co.uk
Here are two videos of Luke's electrical install's as featured in this video
Victron's Video
• Van Electrics Install ...
Luke's Van Life!
• My New Victron Off-Gri...
South central self build get together Facebook group.
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Thank you for watching.
Very informative information presented in a clear, easy to understand format. Keep up the good work!
Much appreciated!
Nice 👍
Exzellent.
Good info.
Glad it was helpful!
Looking forward to the other videos. Hope you also add the 12v fuse box to the circuit 👍
Yeah, we will do that, mkes sense to see how it would go in the system :-)
Hi such clean work! Does the cabling need to be exactly the same length between the battery and the positive side bus bar (including fuse and switch added in) and the negative side battery and the shunt (also on negative side) … or the negative side battery to the negative side bus bar (including the shunt added in). Thanks so much!
Great work, love the content. Two questions 1. What is that bare copper wire from the DC/DC converter to the shunt and isolator switch? I looked through the smart shunt and DC to DC charger and could not find a reference to it. 2nd question is going to sound very noob, my wire calculation for the alternator wire feed to the DC to DC charger is for 4AWG, but the specification on the DC to DC charger calls for 6AWG max. Am I supposed to just use a bus bar at the end and reduce the wire for the final connection? It doesn't sound right to me, but I'm not sure how else to solve it. Thanks in advance.
Do you have a video of wiring up the DC DC CHARGER on the display board Cheers Dave
Hi, I was watching your video to help me plan my layout. Just had a few questions. So the main fuse before the disconnect switch is the one rated for the max inverter draw? So the inverter positive can go direct to the busbar with no other fuse? Also, what do you recommend for short circuit protect ion at the battery. I just have two 100ah lithium batteries in parallel. Some people say 125amp MRBF fuse on each positive terminal. I was thinking of using a class T before the switch, but then something seems off about using the MRBF at the terminals since the MPBF has a lower aic rating then the class T. It does not seem like there are any Class T battery post mounted options, so is MRBF the best one can do, at the terminal post for battery short circuit protection?
Hi, Luke! Where do you get your bus-bars? What do you need to look for in them? What Amp rating or anything? Thank you!
We use 250a bus bars that we source from a supplier in China, they will shortly be available on our website!
Im conFUSEd! So you are going to run the cables to the MPPT and DC-DC unfused?
Hi. Just found this video. What brand of bus bar did you use?
Isnt the fuse for the battery supposed to be as close as possible to the battery? Ive seen them coming right off the terminal. And why not use a fuse that matches the wire max amperage, which you said was 300 but you only used a 200 lamp fuse?
Hi Lads love your videos very informative. I've a query and wounding if you can help? I replaced the sergent solar controler on my bessacarr with a victron mppt 75/15. Solar panel 100w all sergent factory fitted. Issue once the solar panel sends in power the whole electrical system shuts down even with mains plug in any ideas what's happening? Thanks for your help if possible
Hi Steve, good question mate! I think I would start by checking the polarity of the solar coming into the charge controller. Did you use the load output on the 75/15 or the battery out?
@@BlueFix hi thanks for the reply the solar polarity is correct and output is to battery. The 12 volt turns off when solar output goes over 1. amp. Two new batteries fitted incase the old one was bad after 6 years use.
Silly question but doesn’t that display board conduct electricity ? As in if the live shorts to the board it makes that full board live ??
Aha! Well its actully vinyl so its not conductive! We do install on Chequerplate though, we use grommets where positive wires passthrough the plate and quite extensive use of conduit in case of mechanical abrasion!
Ok may be a silly question but why do the cables need to be the same length?
Thats not a silly question, its actually quite a loaded one! DC ripple and EMI are 2 of the most cited reasons for similar cable lengths, It all comes down to resistance and your inverter connections, high DC ripple can cause damage to lithium batteries/
why no Lynx Distribution instead of busbar+fuses?
this video is about wiring best practises and not necessarily showcasing Victron products.
This may sound ridiculous, and you'll probably not see this as this video is 8 months old, but here we go anyways: Your shutoff switch is between the batteries and the positive buss bar. I understand the need for that. However, if the Charge Controller runs to the positive buss bar, then shouldn't there be a shut off switch between there as well? Help me understand. Appreciate you, bro. - Ryan
Generally it’s easy to isolate the charger power sources, solar will have a breaker and dc-dc generally have a switch or jumper to disable them. So not really a requirement