You should always grease the splines on the drive line hub and rear flange before installing the rear wheel. Just thought I would bring that to your attention. Missing this step could result in a very costly repair down the road. Use a good moly paste on those splines!
@@cliffcares6455 I hear ya, Cliff. But your video is supposed to Inform others on how to do the job themselves. There are lots of people that would not know what to do if you don't inform them. I appreciate your videos though man. God bless brother
Sometimes you can get away with not unbolting the caliber. I'd say try and if the tire is not wanting to clear. Then remove the caliber. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
Nice work Cliff - always grateful for people like you that take the time to enlighten the rest of us. Now forgive me for saying this, because unless you have damage to your front wheel, it would seem the tire shop that mounted that tire knows nothing about motorcycle tires/wheels. The main reason motorcycle tires are more expensive than car tires is that they are molded TRUE. Unlike car tires, motorcycle tires are balanced. This means that as long as you align the tire to the wheel, and your wheel doesn't have missing chunks to it, there should NO weights needed for them to balance. The reason shops prefer to glue, crimp or hammer weights on them is because it's a lot faster to do that, than to take the time to align the tire to the wheel, which will require several valve removals, deflating the tire and rolling it until you reach 0.00 on the balancer. So they committed one of "tech's" biggest crimes towards vehicles and their owners, of gluing weights on the rim of your beautiful spoke wheel. This is sacrilege and heresy even with car wheels. [Car wheels should have the flat weights glued on the innermost part of the INSIDE of the wheel.] If these were steelies that had a cover, it would be "more fogiveable". The problem with this is the wheel would have balanced more on one side than the other because unless he's got another 6 weights on the other side, this is improperly balanced. Just saying I wouldn't be surprised you could experience some wobble as the tire wears. Alternatively, the less lazy tire guy would've used spoke weights that wrap around the base of the spokes which balances BOTH SIDES of the wheel. I learned this the hard way and was properly educated on this many years ago. Most people disregard this heinous violation of their precious rides, so shop managers/bosses discourage this proper way to save "time & money". All that said, thanks so much for taking the time to share. We all appreciate it! PS: Not sure if I missed this but it's important to note the spacers on the front, they are different sizes; the right spacer, meaning the side with caliper/rotor is wider [or longer] than the left. Don't get them mixed up. Thanks again - ride safe!
Thanks. The tire I removed was made in 2009. So it was dry rotting. I do use the sticky weights with the rubber backing not the paper. Which can rip off like a sticker. Leaving it on the wheel and it crazy hard to remove. The rubber backing that I use it much easier to remove. I also try to put the weights as close to the center of the wheel as I can. If I can’t. I try putting on both sides. Thanks for watching and happy you enjoyed the video.
@@cliffcares6455 I get it. But in the end, like I said, unless your wheel has sustained damage or the tire is irregular, a new tire should balance once you align them using the mark on the tire with the valve stem. Be well, CC.
I always align the mark on the tire with the valve stem. Then I balance the wheel. Just aligning those two doesn’t mean that your wheel is balance. Most will need weights but do have some that don’t. Not to often.
Sorry to be so off topic but does anybody know a tool to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the account password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me!
For those of us who haven't worked on bikes, and don't want it to tip over, what type and where would you place the jack. I wasn't able to see that very well in the video.
I use the Craftsman aluminum motorcycle/ATV jack. Not made anymore but Harbor Frigate makes a similar one. I use mine to lift the rear. I try to get as close to the rear as possible. Depending on the frame. Find the flattest spot. Lift then do a shack test to make sure it’s good.
It’s the Craftsmen aluminum motorcycle/ATV lack. I got mine from someone on Facebook market. I don’t think they make them anymore. Harbor Freight makes one similar.
If you’re talking about the one for the brake caliber bracket. As long as you can pull it out enough to clear the bracket. Doesn’t have to completely come out the swing arm.
Cliff Cares yeah that’s the one. Still cannot clear it. I probably need another half inch. If I remove the shocks would that help move the bolt above the exhaust?
JDQuest if you remove the shock bolts the lower ones. It should allow you to move the swing arm up and down more so you can possibly remove The swingarm bolt.
Tools you will need for this job are...12mm,14mm,27mm sockets and 8mm Allen key/wrench, a decent moly grease or moly paste for the splines on the wheel and drive hub and naturally a bike lift/jack. You can substitute the 27mm socket and or wrench for a cresent wrench as long as the axle nut has not been over tourqed
This is what I’m able to find. Front Axle Nut 59N-m/ 43 lb-ft Front Axle Pinch Bolt 22N-m/ 16 lb-ft Rear Axle Nut 110N-m/ 81 lb-ft Final Drive Flange Nut 88N-m/ 65 lb-ft
Thanks dude. Your video was good no music or extra ego just showing us what you doing.
Very helpful and straightforward video, thanks a bunch
Welcome. Happy to help. Ride safe.
This was very helpful. Thanks!
Perfect, thanks so much for this.
Thanks for all your help great video. 💯👍🏼😊
Thanks bud more power to your channel God bless
Welcome and thanks.
You should always grease the splines on the drive line hub and rear flange before installing the rear wheel. Just thought I would bring that to your attention. Missing this step could result in a very costly repair down the road. Use a good moly paste on those splines!
I do check them and add grease if needed. Don’t want to over grease them.
@@cliffcares6455 I hear ya, Cliff. But your video is supposed to Inform others on how to do the job themselves. There are lots of people that would not know what to do if you don't inform them. I appreciate your videos though man. God bless brother
Thanks a lot for the video. This is a big help for me. If you don't mine be asking, what brand of tires did you use. Thanks Dave
i have a 1300 and you can remove and replace the wheel without unbolting the brake caliper as long as your pads are still in place!
Sometimes you can get away with not unbolting the caliber. I'd say try and if the tire is not wanting to clear. Then remove the caliber. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
Nice work Cliff - always grateful for people like you that take the time to enlighten the rest of us.
Now forgive me for saying this, because unless you have damage to your front wheel, it would seem the tire shop that mounted that tire knows nothing about motorcycle tires/wheels.
The main reason motorcycle tires are more expensive than car tires is that they are molded TRUE. Unlike car tires, motorcycle tires are balanced. This means that as long as you align the tire to the wheel, and your wheel doesn't have missing chunks to it, there should NO weights needed for them to balance. The reason shops prefer to glue, crimp or hammer weights on them is because it's a lot faster to do that, than to take the time to align the tire to the wheel, which will require several valve removals, deflating the tire and rolling it until you reach 0.00 on the balancer.
So they committed one of "tech's" biggest crimes towards vehicles and their owners, of gluing weights on the rim of your beautiful spoke wheel. This is sacrilege and heresy even with car wheels. [Car wheels should have the flat weights glued on the innermost part of the INSIDE of the wheel.] If these were steelies that had a cover, it would be "more fogiveable". The problem with this is the wheel would have balanced more on one side than the other because unless he's got another 6 weights on the other side, this is improperly balanced. Just saying I wouldn't be surprised you could experience some wobble as the tire wears. Alternatively, the less lazy tire guy would've used spoke weights that wrap around the base of the spokes which balances BOTH SIDES of the wheel. I learned this the hard way and was properly educated on this many years ago. Most people disregard this heinous violation of their precious rides, so shop managers/bosses discourage this proper way to save "time & money".
All that said, thanks so much for taking the time to share. We all appreciate it!
PS: Not sure if I missed this but it's important to note the spacers on the front, they are different sizes; the right spacer, meaning the side with caliper/rotor is wider [or longer] than the left. Don't get them mixed up.
Thanks again - ride safe!
Thanks. The tire I removed was made in 2009. So it was dry rotting. I do use the sticky weights with the rubber backing not the paper. Which can rip off like a sticker. Leaving it on the wheel and it crazy hard to remove. The rubber backing that I use it much easier to remove. I also try to put the weights as close to the center of the wheel as I can. If I can’t. I try putting on both sides. Thanks for watching and happy you enjoyed the video.
@@cliffcares6455 I get it. But in the end, like I said, unless your wheel has sustained damage or the tire is irregular, a new tire should balance once you align them using the mark on the tire with the valve stem. Be well, CC.
I always align the mark on the tire with the valve stem. Then I balance the wheel. Just aligning those two doesn’t mean that your wheel is balance. Most will need weights but do have some that don’t. Not to often.
Sorry to be so off topic but does anybody know a tool to log back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot the account password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Tristen Brooks Instablaster ;)
Put a towel over the exhaust and shock to keep from scratching the chrome when removing the caliper.
I usually do or I place the caliber in a Crown Royal bag.
For those of us who haven't worked on bikes, and don't want it to tip over, what type and where would you place the jack. I wasn't able to see that very well in the video.
I use the Craftsman aluminum motorcycle/ATV jack. Not made anymore but Harbor Frigate makes a similar one. I use mine to lift the rear. I try to get as close to the rear as possible. Depending on the frame. Find the flattest spot. Lift then do a shack test to make sure it’s good.
What said does the smaller washer go one please
So the 05 doesn't require a allen on the other side?
What kind of bike lift are you using? Where did you get it from?
It’s the Craftsmen aluminum motorcycle/ATV lack. I got mine from someone on Facebook market. I don’t think they make them anymore. Harbor Freight makes one similar.
Will you make videos during your trip for your TH-cam channel?
Yes I do.
I have cobra after market exhaust Couldnt get that damn swingarm bolt out due to the clearance.
If you’re talking about the one for the brake caliber bracket. As long as you can pull it out enough to clear the bracket. Doesn’t have to completely come out the swing arm.
Cliff Cares yeah that’s the one. Still cannot clear it. I probably need another half inch. If I remove the shocks would that help move the bolt above the exhaust?
JDQuest if you remove the shock bolts the lower ones. It should allow you to move the swing arm up and down more so you can possibly remove The swingarm bolt.
@@cliffcares6455 I am going to try this next weekend. Thanks for responding. The video was also helpful.
Welcome. Ride safe.
Esas llantas usan cámara?
No
Wouldn't happen to have a tool list available ?
Tools you will need for this job are...12mm,14mm,27mm sockets and 8mm Allen key/wrench, a decent moly grease or moly paste for the splines on the wheel and drive hub and naturally a bike lift/jack. You can substitute the 27mm socket and or wrench for a cresent wrench as long as the axle nut has not been over tourqed
Just the comment and answer I was looking for thanks guys.
What size tire was that in the rear
Believe a 170/80-15.
@@cliffcares6455 esas llantas usan cámara?
What's the torque on the axel nut ?
This is what I’m able to find.
Front Axle Nut 59N-m/ 43 lb-ft
Front Axle Pinch Bolt 22N-m/ 16 lb-ft
Rear Axle Nut 110N-m/ 81 lb-ft
Final Drive Flange Nut 88N-m/ 65 lb-ft
@@cliffcares6455. Just finished the change. Beer 🍺 thirty early today. Thank you. Ride tomorrow on my 2004 vtx1300.
Nice. Ride safe.
he didnt torque one bolt..smh
Thanks bud more power to your channel God bless
Thanks. Ride safe.