I didn't use furring strips in this build, but yes, they are very important for ventilation and moisture control. I have easy access to the back of the walls so I'll be sure to check for mold in 6 months. I don't foresee it being an issue as I don't put that much humidity into the air and have also read opinions saying it's not necessary . I'll put out an update video in 6 months or so to update everyone. Thanks for you comment,
The WHOLET thing about building a sauna and most rewarding part is you jump in and sweat like crazy and tell people it was worth every penny and time you spent building it. Many of the sauna projects I've seen the builder can't wait to go in and try it!
Spot in, that's me, I'm just as excited building things as using them. But I am happy to say that we've been using the Sauna every chance we get and it's fantastic! Thanks for your comment.
Very nice job. You will indeed get those “sauna forum people” asking why plastic bubble wrap and why you didn’t make your ceiling taller since you had “unlimited” space above being in a barn. I agree that it should have been taller, but you have a great looking sauna and you will enjoy it. I agree with your thick and sturdy single pane window choice. Thanks for the video! How much per foot was your knotty cedar? I wish I lived near some Amish or Mennonites!
@@kignacio Thanks very much. I wanted to keep the height as low as comfortably possible for efficiency and getting away with a 9kw heater. I’ve got very tall friends who are very comfortable on the top bench with plenty of head room. Our feet are also level with the rocks. If the taller ceilings so that more of your body is in the hotter zone? The bubble wrap of course is my vapor barrier with a little added insulation and reflective foil. The T&G Knotty White Cedar was $1.30 /board ft. CDN. I’ll be providing bi-annual updates on it as well. Thanks again for taking the time to share.
@@carolinecaroline2264 thanks for the suggestion. After all the research I had done, this is another area where there are differing views. The manufacturer doesn’t ask for, or require a heat shield and it’s mounted as per their instructions. Cedar can handle high heat without worry of catching fire. I will certainly keep the channel updated with updates 6months and a year in to discuss any issues. Thanks again for the comment,
Thank you, There is a floor drain actually that just has a 90 degree and goes straight outside above grade into a pile of gravel. So far, there’s been no need for it but I’n going to start putting a lot more water in the rocks soon so maybe it’ll be necessary then.
@@GolfSimGuy Lots of people wash in the sauna or just poor a bucket of cool water over their head to cool down. That is what a drain is for, not to catch the loyly drippings.
I made it 7 feet tall for efficiency of the heater. At 7 feet, my feet are at the level of the rocks and my head is about 6" below the ceiling. It get's plenty hot and my feet are hot as well. If I want to get them hotter, I can just bring them up to the top bench. Thanks for your comment,
The door is from a Mennonite in Melancthon and the Cedar is from a Mennonite in Mawell, both in Southern Ontario. If you're in the area, DM me and I can send you the details.
Hey Ron We are planning a sauna build right now. You mentioned a place to get a Mennonite door made at a great price. We are near Ottawa, did you get it in the Kitchener Waterloo area? Thanks
Nice build. Two issues i see: 1) The stones look like self-collected from the river. they are not suitable. They can burst! 2) There should always be a small gap between wood panels and moisture barrier, if not you can run into a mold problem
The stones are a mixture of Granite and other non porous rocks from the property. I wanted to keep everything as local as possible. I will definitely identify the rocks to ensure they won't crack and burst. Thanks for letting me know about that. I didn't use furring strips in this build, but yes, they are very important for ventilation and moisture control. I have easy access to the back of the walls so I'll be sure to check for mold in 6 months. I don't foresee it being an issue as I don't put that much humidity into the air and have also read opinions saying it's not necessary . I'll put out an update video in 6 months or so to update everyone. Thanks very much for the comment,
Furring strips behind the cedar are essential. No air gap and it will mold.
I didn't use furring strips in this build, but yes, they are very important for ventilation and moisture control. I have easy access to the back of the walls so I'll be sure to check for mold in 6 months. I don't foresee it being an issue as I don't put that much humidity into the air and have also read opinions saying it's not necessary . I'll put out an update video in 6 months or so to update everyone.
Thanks for you comment,
The WHOLET thing about building a sauna and most rewarding part is you jump in and sweat like crazy and tell people it was worth every penny and time you spent building it. Many of the sauna projects I've seen the builder can't wait to go in and try it!
Spot in, that's me, I'm just as excited building things as using them. But I am happy to say that we've been using the Sauna every chance we get and it's fantastic!
Thanks for your comment.
Very nice job. You will indeed get those “sauna forum people” asking why plastic bubble wrap and why you didn’t make your ceiling taller since you had “unlimited” space above being in a barn. I agree that it should have been taller, but you have a great looking sauna and you will enjoy it. I agree with your thick and sturdy single pane window choice. Thanks for the video!
How much per foot was your knotty cedar? I wish I lived near some Amish or Mennonites!
@@kignacio Thanks very much. I wanted to keep the height as low as comfortably possible for efficiency and getting away with a 9kw heater. I’ve got very tall friends who are very comfortable on the top bench with plenty of head room. Our feet are also level with the rocks.
If the taller ceilings so that more of your body is in the hotter zone?
The bubble wrap of course is my vapor barrier with a little added insulation and reflective foil.
The T&G Knotty White Cedar was $1.30 /board ft. CDN.
I’ll be providing bi-annual updates on it as well.
Thanks again for taking the time to share.
Hope you install a heat shield and move the heater 4 in from the wall.
i second that hope
@@carolinecaroline2264 thanks for the suggestion. After all the research I had done, this is another area where there are differing views.
The manufacturer doesn’t ask for, or require a heat shield and it’s mounted as per their instructions. Cedar can handle high heat without worry of catching fire.
I will certainly keep the channel updated with updates 6months and a year in to discuss any issues.
Thanks again for the comment,
Nice work on the build. I would have liked to see a floor drain though.
Thank you,
There is a floor drain actually that just has a 90 degree and goes straight outside above grade into a pile of gravel.
So far, there’s been no need for it but I’n going to start putting a lot more water in the rocks soon so maybe it’ll be necessary then.
@@GolfSimGuy Lots of people wash in the sauna or just poor a bucket of cool water over their head to cool down. That is what a drain is for, not to catch the loyly drippings.
Thanks very much,
Is the room at least 8.5 ft tall? Taller is better. Otherwise you’ll get cold feet? 10 ft is ideal.
I made it 7 feet tall for efficiency of the heater. At 7 feet, my feet are at the level of the rocks and my head is about 6" below the ceiling. It get's plenty hot and my feet are hot as well. If I want to get them hotter, I can just bring them up to the top bench.
Thanks for your comment,
Nice build. Can you tell us where you got the door and other material?
The door is from a Mennonite in Melancthon and the Cedar is from a Mennonite in Mawell, both in Southern Ontario. If you're in the area, DM me and I can send you the details.
Hey Ron
We are planning a sauna build right now. You mentioned a place to get a Mennonite door made at a great price. We are near Ottawa, did you get it in the Kitchener Waterloo area?
Thanks
@@JohnFahey-q2x He’s in Melancthon. I’d be happy to pass on his contact if you’d like.
His contact info would be great. Thanks
@@GolfSimGuy I would love his contact details as well please!!
Do they ship those doors?
I don’t believe so. You have to pick it up from them.
@ you’re in Canada, right?
Nice build. Two issues i see: 1) The stones look like self-collected from the river. they are not suitable. They can burst!
2) There should always be a small gap between wood panels and moisture barrier, if not you can run into a mold problem
The stones are a mixture of Granite and other non porous rocks from the property. I wanted to keep everything as local as possible. I will definitely identify the rocks to ensure they won't crack and burst. Thanks for letting me know about that.
I didn't use furring strips in this build, but yes, they are very important for ventilation and moisture control. I have easy access to the back of the walls so I'll be sure to check for mold in 6 months. I don't foresee it being an issue as I don't put that much humidity into the air and have also read opinions saying it's not necessary . I'll put out an update video in 6 months or so to update everyone.
Thanks very much for the comment,
Very nice job!! I appreciate the fact that you took us along on this build. Also thanks for the cost breakdown.