Another good video! That is exactly how I've always greased my hubs. I had a smoking hub when my rig was new. When I got home I pulled the hub, the seal was ruptured had grease on the brake components and the inner bearing had some unusual wear so I pulled all four hubs, inspected all the bearings cleaned out all of the black slime factory grease. Replaced the bearings on the one suspect hub. I've always used Mobile-one synthetic bearing grease (not an endorsement) but synthetic w/b grease has a better temperature range especially in the cold, it resists moisture better than off the shelf lithium. I think part of the problem with these axles is the use of pneumatic and motorized grease guns. The knuckleheads pump the grease in too fast without rotating the hub and it blows out the seal.
I grease mine with a grease gun like the manufacture suggests. I do it twice a year. I pump grease in during the camping season and at the beginning of our long winter trip to Florida. I do both jacking up and spinning the tire and just pumping grease in without jacking and spinning. The new grease comes out the same either way so I really don't see the advantage of jacking up the trailer. Dexter says the spinning is optional. Saves time and easier if you don't have to pull out the jack. I'm more likely to grease more often if it saves time and is less work. With that said, it gets the jack up and spin once a year.
I’ve had my Flagstaff camper 4 years. Have always used the ez lube system. Like you said spin the wheel, pump the grease very slowly and never use a power grease gun only manual. I’ve never had an issue. When towing as soon as I stop I always check the hub temperature. I’ve never had one hot. Great video. Keep em coming.
Love your videos! Lots of tutorial videos on TH-cam, but you explain things very well and simple stupid. You’ve saved me over $1000 on my Ram and trailer maintenance! Happy camping!
Nice video. It’s always good to hear both sides of the argument, so that you can make up your own mind. You gave your side with pictures and video. And a well thought out dialogue.
I use a axle perch on the bottle-jack. It’s the same size as the one on the axle opposite the U bolts . Other than that I do what you do. I also made a trailer aid ramp for changing tires out of 2”x 10”’s ( original trailer aid is plastic)
Mechanic for 50+. Nice job on video. Just bought a new TT and pulled wheels to check bearings and brakes. Chamfered brake shoes . Thats great you can buy complete backing plate and shoes !!Thanks for showing dexter axle greasing. I only have dexter on my equipment trailer. U taught me sir 👍👍👍 Thank you sir
Camping World sells service. Of course they say to bring it in every year. I trust the EZ Lube spindle system and haven't had a bearing problem in many years.
I did mine a couple of months ago using the Dexter Easylube. No problems. I will say that I took my time doing mine. As soon as I saw lube coming out, I stopped. Each wheel probably took about 10 minutes to do. I'd pump in two squirts of grease and spin the wheel for a minute or so. Pump in another two squirts and spin again. I think that most people just start pumping away like crazy and don't give it time to disperse throughout the bearings.
@@MarionBlair That's why the seal blows out. If you do it right, it'll take about 10-15 minutes per wheel. Some people just can't wait to keep pumping and pumping grease and try to finish each wheel in under a minute. It's like they are going for a record!
My new 2004 Dexter EZlube axle has two grease outlet ports at the rear, vs. only one port on my older axle. Thats helpfull in avoiding blowing grease past the reaeseal.
This did not work for me and I did it just like you said. I used a hand grease gun and spun the wheels just like you are showing. The seals blew out and got grease all over my brakes. Had to replace all the back plates. I will only hand pack from here on out.
Another winner, thanks Marion. BTW, there's nothing "lazy man's way" about replacing the brakes as you have. For what a complete set with backing plate costs, it's foolish to do otherwise. I did learn that the Ram does not provide full voltage at speeds below 30mph. I learned this last year after replacing all four brake assemblies.
I agree with ya. They gotta be spinning when adding grease or you will blow the inner seal. I know cause I did it! I only use that grease gun once or twice a year and sparingly, preferring to clean and repack by hand once a year…
I have over 100,000 miles on my 14,000 pound fifth wheel... never blew out a seal using the Ez Lube zerks. Always lube on a hot day, and have the wheel spinning while introducing the grease.
What your doing here a jack works just fine the special chuck that you pull or back up on is great for emergency road side repairs you don’t have to worry as much about if the ground firm or soft and it speeds up the repair time on the side of the highway good video
Love your videos ! Always trust you're advise like a father ! your getting big 12k subscriber's congratulations I hope you start making some part time retirement money 💰🤑
If the seal leaks, grease goes straight into the brakes. if you have a blued or damaged bearing you won't know until it fails on the road because you did not inspect them like the manufacturer suggests. The zerk fittings are for clearing water out of a submerged marine axle.
Wrong advice on the tire pressure. That is simply the max pressure. The correct pressure is on the load label on the left front of most trailers. This is the pressure established by the tire and axle manufacturers. Same applies to cars and trucks.
People reject grease guns because of the seal, They think it will blow the seal. At the risk of getting slammed, I think an initial and periodic hand pack and then a few grease gun applications at the beginning of a trip and a few strokes intermittently until some reason takes you into the hub where you would hand pack again. What blows the seal is not the design of the axel but rather the high school kid at the RV dealership with a air driven grease machine that blows seals. When you hear that pneumatic grease gun going pit-chew you have a problem....
@@MarionBlair that is going to far...lol. That is why I give it a couple of shots every 10K and that is still to much...heck dexter makes sealed double row tapered bearing that you cant grease. Your Ram has sealed front bearing that will run well over 150K without service. keep up the good work, lot of thought provoking material presented by your videos...wonderful resource too.
@@MarionBlair A presentation on the appropriate grease formula such as NLGA-2 and such and the different brands, also the types of grease guns one should carry...i wish I could find a grease gun that is not such a mess...
JA: that is exactly what I do. 45 years ago I burned my boat bearings out. Had a heck of a time getting it off the road and do a roadside repair. Since then I am extremely attentive to them. I give them a shot of grease and watch the old dab exit with every other trip to insure they are greased. I look to see if there is any foreign particles. Then 1x a year slowly pump new grease in while turning the wheel until all the old is out and is replaced with new. Takes about a tube per wheel. No issues & several RV's & boats since.
Where did you put the top of the jack, Marion? I have the Dexter axles and they say not to put the jack on the a axle and the frame area near the axles doesn't leave many options. The trailer is a 2019 Rockwood 2304 dual slide - 25' bumper to ball. I recently replaced the Castle Rock China bombs with a set of Goodyears. I saw the shop guy was putting the jack on the axle and got him to move it. I hand packed the bearings this year. I was impressed with the ride quality of the Goodyears over the OEM tires. Keep your tips and "how to's" coming. They help!
Right on the frame. Never heard you couldn't put a jack on the frame near the axles. That's the only logical place to put it. Anywhere else and you'll been the cheesy frame.
I have been using the EZ zerk but I have a hub apart right now and it was not pushing the old grease out worth a darn. I will never trust it again. I checked it all the time. More than once onall trips. It was never hot but the slime left on the rollers themselves was pure garbage. It doesn't even resemble grease anymore. In fact with any side pressure while cleaning caused the rollers to lock up.I would say it might seem trustworthy but if you take things apart you ay find it is not doing a proper job at all. It was definitely setting itself up for a catastrophic failure. I pumped slow, I spun the wheel. I 100% do not trust it now that I have inspected it. Just because it hasn't gotten hot yet doesn't really tell you much except that it isn't failing at that moment. These bearings would have hit a point a burned up fast.
Here is the way I am going to do a hybrid method for my EZ lube axle. I have only repacked mine the standard way so far. Have not attempted the EZ Lube way yet. I'm going to do a hybrid version that partly uses both methods....use manual grease gun to pump some grease in while spinning the wheel slowly. Maybe 6 pumps. That should adequately renew the grease in the inner bearing, because the spinning wheel will distribute the grease all around in the inner bearing. Now support the outer nose of the hub with my small rolling jack (not necessary, but that will keep the hub from tipping down on the spindle when the outer bearing is removed), remove the metal dust cap, remove the outer wheel bearing, hand-pack it, re-install the bearing and nut retaining devices, and the cap. This way both bearings get greased, and the whole inner hub cavity does not get filled, and I avoid the more work intensive process of removing the inner bearing. Of course, occasionally pull it all down the standard way for compelete re-pack and inspection. Comments?
What grease are you using? Keeping the tire changing tools handy is a good idea in case a flat happens on the road. Last thing I want is to be digging for tools on the side of the highway.
You ever look into oil bath bearings?? I come from the HD truck world and front and trailer hubs are all oil bath. I was thinking about doing it for my 16' enclosed trailer, but it doesn't get much use as of late. But I think it would work great with little maintenance. 🍻🍻
@@MarionBlair Me too. I was a mechanic in the Army and we pulled every wheel in the motor pool twice a year and repacked perfectly clean bearings regardless of mileage. I think you're fine just pushing clean grease in and making sure they haven't gotten loose every year or so. You're pushing the old dirty grease and any moisture out at the same time.
@@terrywaters6186 Thanks for that. That's been my experience with several campers with the Easylube. I think as long as you rotate the wheel and pump the grease slowly, it's not really stressing that rear seal much.
We have 8000 miles on 2021 Casita Travel Trailer. I EZ lubed not quite a year ago. I am now thinking before next trip to simply add a couple of pumps of grease using EZ lube. Does this make sense?
OH MAN!!! Never tempt fate by making a statement like ''You know I've never had to change a trailer tire on the highway." LOL I also carry a point and shoot non contact thermometer "gun" to keep track of tire, hub and differential temps on my truck and trailers.
Thanks, I’ve bought a lot of stuff from these people below (mine are Dexter) but you can get them from Northern Tools, NAPA and lot of online stores. www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-26-27.html?feed=npn&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwltKxBhDMARIsAG8KnqW-Fhk51TwNBqeHyfAVDZPkrNkh0Eyorjh2F6B27RiczUevOph2UuwaAuJBEALw_wcB
They don't use a cotter pin anymore. See this: www.amazon.com/Trailer-Wheel-Spindle-Retainer-EZ-Lube/dp/B08RNN2CN3/ref=asc_df_B08RNN2CN3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=533377215817&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8433500856167300151&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025237&hvtargid=pla-1395484313189&psc=1
As shown in your video grease on your brakes. Do not pump grease. It’s not a sales thing either. It’s a gamble. On disc and idler hubs you can see the seal area. Drums you can’t.
Another good video! That is exactly how I've always greased my hubs. I had a smoking hub when my rig was new. When I got home I pulled the hub, the seal was ruptured had grease on the brake components and the inner bearing had some unusual wear so I pulled all four hubs, inspected all the bearings cleaned out all of the black slime factory grease. Replaced the bearings on the one suspect hub. I've always used Mobile-one synthetic bearing grease (not an endorsement) but synthetic w/b grease has a better temperature range especially in the cold, it resists moisture better than off the shelf lithium. I think part of the problem with these axles is the use of pneumatic and motorized grease guns. The knuckleheads pump the grease in too fast without rotating the hub and it blows out the seal.
Yep, Mobil-one sythetic, me too.
I grease mine with a grease gun like the manufacture suggests. I do it twice a year. I pump grease in during the camping season and at the beginning of our long winter trip to Florida. I do both jacking up and spinning the tire and just pumping grease in without jacking and spinning. The new grease comes out the same either way so I really don't see the advantage of jacking up the trailer. Dexter says the spinning is optional. Saves time and easier if you don't have to pull out the jack. I'm more likely to grease more often if it saves time and is less work. With that said, it gets the jack up and spin once a year.
Marion Blair for PRESIDENT!!! Thank you for your knowledge and information to us all. Keep it up! Stay blessed Marion. Adios Amigo.
I’ve had my Flagstaff camper 4 years. Have always used the ez lube system. Like you said spin the wheel, pump the grease very slowly and never use a power grease gun only manual. I’ve never had an issue. When towing as soon as I stop I always check the hub temperature. I’ve never had one hot. Great video. Keep em coming.
Thanks, Same here, Never an issue with bearings.
Love your videos! Lots of tutorial videos on TH-cam, but you explain things very well and simple stupid. You’ve saved me over $1000 on my Ram and trailer maintenance! Happy camping!
Thank you
Nice video. It’s always good to hear both sides of the argument, so that you can make up your own mind. You gave your side with pictures and video. And a well thought out dialogue.
I use a axle perch on the bottle-jack. It’s the same size as the one on the axle opposite the U bolts . Other than that I do what you do.
I also made a trailer aid ramp for changing tires out of 2”x 10”’s ( original trailer aid is plastic)
Mechanic for 50+. Nice job on video. Just bought a new TT and pulled wheels to check bearings and brakes. Chamfered brake shoes . Thats great you can buy complete backing plate and shoes !!Thanks for showing dexter axle greasing. I only have dexter on my equipment trailer. U taught me sir 👍👍👍
Thank you sir
appreciate!
Camping World sells service. Of course they say to bring it in every year. I trust the EZ Lube spindle system and haven't had a bearing problem in many years.
Camping World blows chunks.
No reason to add grease between repacks if you do the job properly. More grease doesn't equal better
I did mine a couple of months ago using the Dexter Easylube. No problems. I will say that I took my time doing mine. As soon as I saw lube coming out, I stopped. Each wheel probably took about 10 minutes to do. I'd pump in two squirts of grease and spin the wheel for a minute or so. Pump in another two squirts and spin again. I think that most people just start pumping away like crazy and don't give it time to disperse throughout the bearings.
That's exactly how I do it. Most of my friends with campers don't know you are suppose to spin the wheel while greasing it. ha
@@MarionBlair That's why the seal blows out. If you do it right, it'll take about 10-15 minutes per wheel. Some people just can't wait to keep pumping and pumping grease and try to finish each wheel in under a minute. It's like they are going for a record!
My new 2004 Dexter EZlube axle has two grease outlet ports at the rear, vs. only one port on my older axle. Thats helpfull in avoiding blowing grease past the reaeseal.
This did not work for me and I did it just like you said. I used a hand grease gun and spun the wheels just like you are showing. The seals blew out and got grease all over my brakes. Had to replace all the back plates. I will only hand pack from here on out.
Another winner, thanks Marion. BTW, there's nothing "lazy man's way" about replacing the brakes as you have. For what a complete set with backing plate costs, it's foolish to do otherwise.
I did learn that the Ram does not provide full voltage at speeds below 30mph. I learned this last year after replacing all four brake assemblies.
I agree with ya. They gotta be spinning when adding grease or you will blow the inner seal. I know cause I did it! I only use that grease gun once or twice a year and sparingly, preferring to clean and repack by hand once a year…
Seems like a great idea to me. It makes since. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I have over 100,000 miles on my 14,000 pound fifth wheel... never blew out a seal using the Ez Lube zerks. Always lube on a hot day, and have the wheel spinning while introducing the grease.
Yea, do it in the summertime, good point.
What brand of grease do you use
@@electrified7309 Lucas Red n Tacky.
What your doing here a jack works just fine the special chuck that you pull or back up on is great for emergency road side repairs you don’t have to worry as much about if the ground firm or soft and it speeds up the repair time on the side of the highway good video
Love your videos ! Always trust you're advise like a father ! your getting big 12k subscriber's congratulations I hope you start making some part time retirement money 💰🤑
Thanks Zachary, I enjoy making some of them but the money well, it might pay for the camera equipment.
I always enjoy your videos! Thanks.
I agree! I am going to start doing that. Good tip!
If the seal leaks, grease goes straight into the brakes. if you have a blued or damaged bearing you won't know until it fails on the road because you did not inspect them like the manufacturer suggests. The zerk fittings are for clearing water out of a submerged marine axle.
Also, get a Load Range D tire. The C is bottom of the barrel stuff.
Wrong advice on the tire pressure. That is simply the max pressure. The correct pressure is on the load label on the left front of most trailers. This is the pressure established by the tire and axle manufacturers. Same applies to cars and trucks.
Why would you put more pressure in a tire than what is posted on the tire? Would that not cause a blow out???
People reject grease guns because of the seal, They think it will blow the seal. At the risk of getting slammed, I think an initial and periodic hand pack and then a few grease gun applications at the beginning of a trip and a few strokes intermittently until some reason takes you into the hub where you would hand pack again. What blows the seal is not the design of the axel but rather the high school kid at the RV dealership with a air driven grease machine that blows seals. When you hear that pneumatic grease gun going pit-chew you have a problem....
Yes, and not rotating the wheel while pumping.
@@MarionBlair that is going to far...lol.
That is why I give it a couple of shots every 10K and that is still to much...heck dexter makes sealed double row tapered bearing that you cant grease. Your Ram has sealed front bearing that will run well over 150K without service. keep up the good work, lot of thought provoking material presented by your videos...wonderful resource too.
@@MarionBlair A presentation on the appropriate grease formula such as NLGA-2 and such and the different brands, also the types of grease guns one should carry...i wish I could find a grease gun that is not such a mess...
@@JA-ux7dd I'm with you on the mess! Thanks for the suggestion.
JA: that is exactly what I do. 45 years ago I burned my boat bearings out. Had a heck of a time getting it off the road and do a roadside repair. Since then I am extremely attentive to them. I give them a shot of grease and watch the old dab exit with every other trip to insure they are greased. I look to see if there is any foreign particles. Then 1x a year slowly pump new grease in while turning the wheel until all the old is out and is replaced with new. Takes about a tube per wheel. No issues & several RV's & boats since.
Excellent info. Thanks for posting.
Where did you put the top of the jack, Marion? I have the Dexter axles and they say not to put the jack on the a axle and the frame area near the axles doesn't leave many options. The trailer is a 2019 Rockwood 2304 dual slide - 25' bumper to ball. I recently replaced the Castle Rock China bombs with a set of Goodyears. I saw the shop guy was putting the jack on the axle and got him to move it. I hand packed the bearings this year. I was impressed with the ride quality of the Goodyears over the OEM tires. Keep your tips and "how to's" coming. They help!
Right on the frame. Never heard you couldn't put a jack on the frame near the axles. That's the only logical place to put it. Anywhere else and you'll been the cheesy frame.
How do you explain the black/dirt around the lug nuts. Too much gease?. Hope you don't ever get grease on the magnets.
I have been using the EZ zerk but I have a hub apart right now and it was not pushing the old grease out worth a darn. I will never trust it again. I checked it all the time. More than once onall trips. It was never hot but the slime left on the rollers themselves was pure garbage. It doesn't even resemble grease anymore. In fact with any side pressure while cleaning caused the rollers to lock up.I would say it might seem trustworthy but if you take things apart you ay find it is not doing a proper job at all. It was definitely setting itself up for a catastrophic failure. I pumped slow, I spun the wheel. I 100% do not trust it now that I have inspected it. Just because it hasn't gotten hot yet doesn't really tell you much except that it isn't failing at that moment. These bearings would have hit a point a burned up fast.
Here is the way I am going to do a hybrid method for my EZ lube axle. I have only repacked mine the standard way so far. Have not attempted the EZ Lube way yet.
I'm going to do a hybrid version that partly uses both methods....use manual grease gun to pump some grease in while spinning the wheel slowly. Maybe 6 pumps. That should adequately renew the grease in the inner bearing, because the spinning wheel will distribute the grease all around in the inner bearing. Now support the outer nose of the hub with my small rolling jack (not necessary, but that will keep the hub from tipping down on the spindle when the outer bearing is removed), remove the metal dust cap, remove the outer wheel bearing, hand-pack it, re-install the bearing and nut retaining devices, and the cap. This way both bearings get greased, and the whole inner hub cavity does not get filled, and I avoid the more work intensive process of removing the inner bearing. Of course, occasionally pull it all down the standard way for compelete re-pack and inspection.
Comments?
What grease are you using?
Keeping the tire changing tools handy is a good idea in case a flat happens on the road. Last thing I want is to be digging for tools on the side of the highway.
I take them apart its the way I’ve always done it but I found that i had 2 brakes on right side had lost parts and were not working Just my thoughts
Yes, I pull my emergency brake each outing to make sure they are working.
You ever look into oil bath bearings?? I come from the HD truck world and front and trailer hubs are all oil bath. I was thinking about doing it for my 16' enclosed trailer, but it doesn't get much use as of late. But I think it would work great with little maintenance. 🍻🍻
I sue like the little maintenance idea.
For 16foot trailer. Oil bath is way overkill
@@MarionBlair Me too. I was a mechanic in the Army and we pulled every wheel in the motor pool twice a year and repacked perfectly clean bearings regardless of mileage. I think you're fine just pushing clean grease in and making sure they haven't gotten loose every year or so. You're pushing the old dirty grease and any moisture out at the same time.
@@terrywaters6186 Thanks for that. That's been my experience with several campers with the Easylube. I think as long as you rotate the wheel and pump the grease slowly, it's not really stressing that rear seal much.
Grest coverage. Thx
We have 8000 miles on 2021 Casita Travel Trailer. I EZ lubed not quite a year ago. I am now thinking before next trip to simply add a couple of pumps of grease using EZ lube. Does this make sense?
Yes, just a couple of ounces to move the old grease out of the bearings but jack them up and rotate while you’re doing it
If you have a higher load rating tire then if you out the max pressure the trailer will have a rough ride.
OH MAN!!! Never tempt fate by making a statement like ''You know I've never had to change a trailer tire on the highway." LOL I also carry a point and shoot non contact thermometer "gun" to keep track of tire, hub and differential temps on my truck and trailers.
same here, don't leave home without it, ha. Sure gives me peace of mind when I see the temps all very close.
What are the dimensions of the steel plate you used on the bottle jack.
Marion great video. Where do you buy the whole brake and hub assembly?
Thanks, I’ve bought a lot of stuff from these people below (mine are Dexter) but you can get them from Northern Tools, NAPA and lot of online stores. www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-26-27.html?feed=npn&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwltKxBhDMARIsAG8KnqW-Fhk51TwNBqeHyfAVDZPkrNkh0Eyorjh2F6B27RiczUevOph2UuwaAuJBEALw_wcB
@@MarionBlair thank you.
If you go by manufacturers' specifications, I don't see how you can go wrong
I don't see the hole for the cotter pin in the close-up photo???
They don't use a cotter pin anymore. See this: www.amazon.com/Trailer-Wheel-Spindle-Retainer-EZ-Lube/dp/B08RNN2CN3/ref=asc_df_B08RNN2CN3/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=533377215817&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8433500856167300151&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025237&hvtargid=pla-1395484313189&psc=1
Pm maintenance is key
Lucas red and tacky
Doing that is a gamble.
Sincerely,
Another axle manufacturer.
Rear seal concern?
@@MarionBlair the seal is the cheap part. The brakes are the $ and safety reason.
As shown in your video grease on your brakes. Do not pump grease. It’s not a sales thing either. It’s a gamble. On disc and idler hubs you can see the seal area. Drums you can’t.
BS - never again will I will use a grease gun. The only right way to do it is to pack em by hand...
So only blowing one seal with the EZLube is ok? 25% failure rate. Hope you don't work for the nuclear power industry.
One day you all will destroy your brakes using EZlube. Don't be lazy and do it right