Guys, I'm a software engineer from Poland (that country next to Ukraine). I have nothing to do with home remodeling and anyways we build houses very differently over here (brick and mortar). I watch your videos anyways, cause you guys are great and it's a pleasure to see a Team like you do an awesome job. Thank you!
A chain bolted around the pipe with a jack under it will lift that right out.... I prefer a farm jack also called a trail jack and I pull concrete set post with it
Hey Jordan, just want to give you props for all you have done. Your Dad gets a lot of the accolades (rightly so!!), but you deserve major kudos for all you have done and do for your dad and for the channel. And Paul, damn, you are a powerhouse. I'm so impressed with your knowledge, enthusiasm and energy. I get tired just watching you work.
I'm guessing the double sanitary tee (first shown at 15:40) was used because it allows a straight shot on the two vanity branches. However, most codes prohibit san tees for horizontal to horizontal direction changes. It certainly would fail inspection in Tucson where I am located. Stacking opposite facing combos (or wyes with 1/8 street bends) one after the other is universally acceptable. Many jurisdictions would also allow double combos (or double wyes with 1/8 street bends). Obviously, these solutions would cause both 90 degree branches to overshoot their targets, but a 1/16 or 1/12 bend would easily get each back on course. I don't know how that would affect the plans for the floor framing.
Gentlemen-I like raising up the floor as oppose to jackhammering out the slab. One issue that I noticed that others have mentioned is the use of a cross tee in a horizontal orientation. (This would not pass in my jurisdiction). In that position, it can not be used for drain or waste-only vent. What you should replace it with is a double wye + some 45’s. There’s not enough sweep to force the waste to turn 90°, plus if you were to ever snake it, it would shoot straight across. any change in direction in a horizontal position should have a long sweep to it. Otherwise, fantastic job as always!
Should’ve just cut the floor where needed for the plumbing. I know your buddy was worried about dust, but the appropriate temp wall to catch dust and lots of water would be well worth it. Oh well!
Yea I feel the same way. It seems so dumb to do all the for a nice bathroom shower and then have to step up 6in to get in it like maybe it won't be bad if they make a ramp going in but I'd much rather have everything lever with the rest of the shop floor
@@lordginger636 yeah definitely, I am a commercial/industrial electrician and have been in the trade over 24 years and have done a lot remodels. Have seen the floor cut a lot for plumbing and or electrical. I actually worked on a Dialysis center remodel and it was in 3 phases while the building was occupied. And they saw cut the floor many times for the remodel. Not much dust at all the way the contractor did it.
Yeah, I thought the same thing. A wet saw and there's no dust. And you can clean up the slurry created before it dries to keep that from dusting up when it dries. They did okay with the circular saw and water. A proper concrete saw is basically just a bigger version.
I recently bought a pair of extendable poles that reach the ceiling. They're made by a company called Third Hand. They sell an attachment made to hold a piece of plastic from floor to ceiling. The plastic has a zippered door. I've used these many times when doing DIY projects. No dust, no pissed-off wife.
A GFCI measures the difference in current between your hot and neutral prongs in the outlet. No grounding required. In fact, when replacing outlets in a house that does not have a grounding system, NEC requires those outlets to be replaced with GFCI and labeled "No equipment ground". Using a double insulated tool should not be an issue.
My understanding is that double insulation means the cord and body are separated from continuity meaning there is no chance of residual current on the cord to the receptacle, so gfci would not work in the case of a traditional ground fault. This separates the user from being the dangerous path to ground/neutral while working in a wet situation.
Does this apply to battery packs? A blonde question probably, but I'm not much a electric guy past the breaker box of a house, I respect electricity so much I don't do more than 220 because 220 can kill you, so can 110, but that is scary enough.. Pretty sure you'd burn through batteries trying to cut for that long of time in cement, probably burn any brushless motor up too... I don't know, I'm more cave man at 240 plus and would of hammered it without precuts, but I have seen the method used before as I was the water sprayer thinking huh, all be damned...
@@waliw3841 I'm interested to know how it wouldn't work? If the current leaving the outlet, traveling through the load and returning are not within a certain tolerance - typically 4-6mA - then the device assumes a ground fault is taking place and trips, opening the path.
Agreed. Most people do not realize that the grounding wires and neutral wires are connected in the vicinity of the panel/meter and are essentially both "grounds." Understanding the difference between "grounding" and "grounded" is generally what separates an electrician from most DIY'er. There are a lot of ways electric will work, but that's not the same as doing it "right" or to code to protect the equipment and the user.
What I love most is how joyful you look while doing grueling work. It's easy to forget that joy when you're in the thick of it, especially when things aren't behaving the way you'd like them to, hahaha. Thanks for making it look not only possible but a source of joy!
Food for thought next time youre connecting pvc to cast with the inner rubber. Measure and mark a refrence line on the pvc indicating the depth you need to go. That way once its in you wont have to remove it again.
As a non plumber remodeler i enjoy your diversity in skill sets. One helpful hint i would give though is ditch the Milwaukee blades and go with the diablo full carbide for cutting steel, they last much longer and cut faster. Cheers!
You and your son make such an awesome team! Love seeing the father son bond you two have. You guys are not afraid to tackle any project. Keep up the great work!
Jordan and Paul...the poster children for "Dirty Hands. Clean Money" ethos. Love your channel and the chemistry. This and Perkins Builder Brothers are my favorites!
I'm a purist! I would have removed the concrete even if it meant using a wetsaw and jackhammer to keep the dust down. I might have even brought in a low flow hose to keep the slab marginally flooded. I know ... expense, time and labor ... gotta make choices to fit the project into not only the monetary budget, but also the time frame budget. Can't wait until to see what is in store!
As a retired plumber i got a few laughs from your job. a saw cut would have been the right way to build that bathroom. The 3x2 cross laying on its side would not pass inspection in PA. With soil pipe, the gasket always goes in first.
When demoing out concrete floor, I use a 1/2” masonry bit, make Swiss cheese out of the floor, then chip it out! Works great concrete comes out in chunks Same roto hammer drill Also bought a 60lb roto hammer from harbor freight, 300$… I use that when I’m doing curbless showers
I do not mind Jordan behind the camera. The sign of a great manager or team is knowing and utilizing everyone strengths while minimizing weaknesses. His strength is electronics. Nice video, thank you.
I opened my concrete slab to modify some plumbing last month, and I had a laugh at your bit getting stuck in the concrete and the struggle to get it out. Happened to me more than once! Good times.
Stud Pack videos are always a highlight of my day. You two look to have a great working relationship, and I’m always learning tons watching you guys. Keep ‘em coming!
Love it! Exciting new project series. I started with the oldest series and I am working forward. I’m so enjoying the evolution, the process and the projects.
Been frabricator 45 years,wood, steel, tin,decks ,bathrooms,additions. Seen alot of vids,but couldnt stop watching both of you. The kid helped and was upset for not beeing on video showing his effort,( very impresive). Very infomative and liked the banter,( just as in real life). Hope to see you again,when looking for info and guidance. Im replacing old cast iron toilet flange(50+plaster walls)need to smooth out inside rust so the expansion hub will seat in old rusted cast iron. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the good work guys hope to see you soon thanks
Man @Stud Pack you really sure do have the “cliffhanger” ending down 200%. Ya make it so not only do you draw ppl in w/ how both you Paul and Jordan interact, but how you guys work and the standards you have….which are high (very great imo👍🏻), and never miss the “details” which can break a project. Always a great job, fun time watching and “hanging” w/ you both….and leave us always JUST WANTING MORE MORE MORE! Well, till next time; have a great day/week. Here’s to you Both✌🏻
You guys are great! Love the Dad Son thing, and all things building. Congrats on whatever success you are getting. Thank you for your content. You guys make my life better!
Hey Stud Pack guys! I've only done a moderate amount of work like what you do on your channel and I mostly have no clue what's going on. But! I'm really loving the energy and enthusiasm you have for your craft. Watching your videos over the last week or so has shown me what happens when professionals take pride in their work. You guys not only make it fun to watch, but when you finish your projects, you end with some incredible works of art! Some of your projects are beautiful to say the least. One that comes to mind immediately is the microwave you installed in a kitchen cabinet that ended up with a small drawer added underneath. Not only was it incredibly informational, but it also felt like you loved showing all of us how and why you do what you do. That can be said about pretty much all the videos I've seen! It's easy to tell you enjoy what you do and that passion radiates throughout your videos. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing more :)
For things like that CI pipe, try a Hi-Lift farm jack. Wrap a chain and jacks right out. Great for cemented post. I also found it works great for huge stubborn concrete pads. Lift the section of pad up and toss something underneath for a void and pop away with a sledge. I came up with that one demoing my pool.
16:13 Ya would think that right, but was demoing an old historic house that was previously remodeled and not only were hot/cold lines reversed everywhere, but whomever installed that cross you have, did indeed install it “backwards”….or “opposite flow”.
I had a similar demo around a pipe and what I found helpful was to use tapcon (concrete screws) into where I was removing. Every 3 or 4 inches screw in a tapcon and pull it out. It helps break down the concrete into sections and makes it easier to control how much you remove. P.s. I'm a rookie and you guys are awesome with these videos. It's greatly appreciated guys.
I’m so grateful to see that. One people still take pride in their work ! And someone who knows what he is doing! Lookiniig forward to welcoming you to Texas! I live on the coast,but I’m willing to help y’all anytime!
You've got the most awesome bathroom planned. Even a urinal !! Just back from a visit to Europe, my spouse and I fully discovered the joy of clean with a bidet. Have you considered that as part of your utimate bathroom? You got room... Please consider it. As always you are all "must see TH-cam" for me and many others. Thanks guys !!
Nice work around the cast iron. I've been thinking about digging down my basement for a 10 foot ceiling for a proper addition and seeing the concrete fall away from the iron was good to see. Stay safe, stay happy, and stay sane while you can.
Hi Guys, You guys do amazing work. My humble recommendation is the Doble TEE I would swap it for a Doble Y, I don't know the codes there but I think will be better.
Great progress guys. Paul, I wish you could have twisted the shop owners arm a bit more because I think demoing the slab would have been the right move. With copper lines that old, I'd replace them for fear of having thin walls and getting a pin hole leak in the near future. Also, creating a platform would make the restroom unfriendly for handicap access. BTW isn't a 2x6 lumber 5-1/2" tall?
The one part of this build I would never want to do is breaking out the old drain low and putting in new connections. Redoing my bathroom and connecting to the PVC 'tree' in my basement with a couple connections was aggravating because if anything didn't fit just right and I messed up near the tree, there would be a ton of cut out and redoing! Great work and I'm glad this worked out with that rubber seal nicely. I thought it was going to be a difficult cut down low.
Great work gang! Me and my dad had a project like that before! Framing the floor wasn't the most fun task but was definitely a learning experience. Especially maintaining your slope!
The twin tee (short turn fitting) was the wrong fitting for this application. They should only be used vertically in drains. In venting they can be laid on their side. When laying a fitting on its side in drainage you should always use a long turn fitting, in this case a double combo.
Just curious, would his set up pass inspection? (Does the remodel work require inspection in their county?) I'm genuinely curious based on what little I know about rough-in from being a flunky years ago.
@@FaceFaceMan it wouldn’t where I’m at in Austin tx. They’d make you get rid of the cross fitting and stack two combos instead. They won’t let you use double combos because the idea is if you slope one side it puts back fall on the other. I say just lay it flat and slope the pipe and you’ll be fine but that’s what they require.
@@joshcowart2446 that makes sense but here in Georgia I’ve passed inspection with double wye because you can slope the street 45s Slightly. But that double santee would never pass.
Those rubber "donuts" that connect the PVC to the cast iron can be a pain. There is no "standard" bell ID and different pipe manufacturers set their own standards. It really didn't matter back when they were using lead/oakum for the seal. For a given cast iron pipe size, the local stores like Home Depot and Lowes only carry the one that's the most common pipe diameters. It just so happens that my house built in the mid 50's uses a different donut than either of the 3 home stores in my area (HD/Lowes/Menards). Before you go ripping the plumbing apart, you better have plans 'B' and 'C' ready to go. Know where your local plumbing supply house is that sells to the pros. When the one from Home Depot doesn't fit, you can get the accurate ID of the hub you're working with and there's a good chance the pro supplier has the one you need. Make sure they do over-the-counter sales before you make that drive. If you have to order on-line you can expect a couple of days delay in the project. Also, make CERTAIN that the cast iron pipe is fully supported before you wail on the PVC with a sledge to drive that into the bushing/donut.... If the pipe is not supported, you can crack the pipe or damage the next lead/oakum seal in the pipeline.
Would have been nice if you all could have wet saw the concrete in squares and then break them individually with the rotary hammer while the floor is still wet. Great Job
Dont know wsne i saw one the first videos from your channel i saw but i love your work need more people like you who love what they do not just for money😍😍
meeeen why is it so relaxing to watch yall videos haha in first i like to learn, second i love to see skilled people create things, 3th the way the 2 of you interact is just relaxing :D and i love them southern accents :D
The proximity of the iron pipe to the copper just complicates the concrete created corrosion with a galvanic corrosion component from the dissimilar metals.
That double fixture fitting wont be able to be cabled downward in the future as the cable will cross over to the other side. This can also cause damage to the opposite side bathroom because a future plumber won't know that the fitting is placed like that. It would be much better to use a double combination, this way the sweep would ensure that the cable only goes downstream. It also wouldn't be too hard to expose a little more pipe in the ground and install two Wye fittings.
The linear drains are sweet. They aren't as easy as a typical on tho. One comment guys if it's Schluter, do not run your fingers along the inside of the stainless fittings. It's super sharp. Same with the cover. I had the solid stainless cover when I did it. I heard the waffle faced one collects hair on the surface. BTW that's funny but understandable what people say about the dbl insulated tool and GFCI. Glad you get the proper facts, I'm an electrician and you're right. Your guys filming and explaining is excellent.
They make an adapter fitting to use in a cast iron bell gasket not sure if it's code where you live but it is where I am. Sure it wouldn't be a problem just might make it easier next time.
Another excellent YT video! I wish that the cast iron was leaded in instead of with that rubber bushing, only so I could see how you’d tackle that. Looking forward to seeing the transformation to a beautiful bathroom! Thanks
Have you heard of the Aldrich tape measure. It’s a 25ft tape but the inch is broken down into decimals like the metric system. I found it on Amazon it’s really cool
The porter cable and the water bottle It's the same concept as a wet saw I do the same with my grinder with a diamond blade and a wet sponge held on the blade to cut tile and concrete
Another fantastic video! While it would be very simple to insure there'd be no dust from cutting the concrete, I also like the way you're doing it. Will definitely be a faster overall install for the customer, but will also enable the large super-awesome restroom to be easily removed &/or repaired in the future.
I like to run a shop vac next to the jackhammer during chipping to catch some of the dust. you guys do great work we all just learn different tricks as we go, safety is big in my company
Paul, instead of using soap check out 3M 08946 Clear Silicone Paste. Great for all kinds of applications, just make sure you don’t apply it to anything that you want to glue/cement or don’t want to be slippery.
Deburr, bevel one side but not the others? Get a Reed Deb4 if your gonna run some pipe. Otherwise you're not doing it right since the edge is scraping and pooling the glue towards the inside of the fitting instead of spreading as it should.
Ascension parish here we have cast iron sewer lines under our concrete slab with the lead in the joints built around the same time as the one in the video. I hope I never have to replace them .well at least not anytime soon 😱
Guys, I'm a software engineer from Poland (that country next to Ukraine). I have nothing to do with home remodeling and anyways we build houses very differently over here (brick and mortar). I watch your videos anyways, cause you guys are great and it's a pleasure to see a Team like you do an awesome job. Thank you!
“That Country next to Ukraine” lol 😂
Thank you for supporting The Stud Pack and Ukraine Poland 🇵🇱🥰
@@drdarwinator Few Americans really know Europe so we specify so you know in case you didn't.
@@mattcraztex9940 As an American myself you’re pretty much correct. I’ve got family from Europe so that does help quite a bit.
A chain bolted around the pipe with a jack under it will lift that right out.... I prefer a farm jack also called a trail jack and I pull concrete set post with it
Hey Jordan, just want to give you props for all you have done. Your Dad gets a lot of the accolades (rightly so!!), but you deserve major kudos for all you have done and do for your dad and for the channel.
And Paul, damn, you are a powerhouse. I'm so impressed with your knowledge, enthusiasm and energy. I get tired just watching you work.
Can’t stop this Father-Son duo!
What I really like to see. A father and son passing the trade and working together as a team.
They both do incredible work!
Dynamic Duo. Never cease to impress.
I'm guessing the double sanitary tee (first shown at 15:40) was used because it allows a straight shot on the two vanity branches. However, most codes prohibit san tees for horizontal to horizontal direction changes. It certainly would fail inspection in Tucson where I am located.
Stacking opposite facing combos (or wyes with 1/8 street bends) one after the other is universally acceptable. Many jurisdictions would also allow double combos (or double wyes with 1/8 street bends). Obviously, these solutions would cause both 90 degree branches to overshoot their targets, but a 1/16 or 1/12 bend would easily get each back on course. I don't know how that would affect the plans for the floor framing.
Gentlemen-I like raising up the floor as oppose to jackhammering out the slab. One issue that I noticed that others have mentioned is the use of a cross tee in a horizontal orientation. (This would not pass in my jurisdiction). In that position, it can not be used for drain or waste-only vent. What you should replace it with is a double wye + some 45’s. There’s not enough sweep to force the waste to turn 90°, plus if you were to ever snake it, it would shoot straight across. any change in direction in a horizontal position should have a long sweep to it. Otherwise, fantastic job as always!
upc maybe , internatioanl a 2" can be flat..
Will not pass here in Ohio too
Or NPC
Just think of it as all waste turns have to be long sweeps ( no sharp 90*)
Should that double L he’s putting on top of the slab be a cross instead, to vent the stack?
I was thinking the same thing.
Yes if that ever cloggs up they will be very lucky to get the snake to make that drop
Should’ve just cut the floor where needed for the plumbing. I know your buddy was worried about dust, but the appropriate temp wall to catch dust and lots of water would be well worth it. Oh well!
Yea I feel the same way. It seems so dumb to do all the for a nice bathroom shower and then have to step up 6in to get in it like maybe it won't be bad if they make a ramp going in but I'd much rather have everything lever with the rest of the shop floor
@@lordginger636 yeah definitely, I am a commercial/industrial electrician and have been in the trade over 24 years and have done a lot remodels. Have seen the floor cut a lot for plumbing and or electrical. I actually worked on a Dialysis center remodel and it was in 3 phases while the building was occupied. And they saw cut the floor many times for the remodel. Not much dust at all the way the contractor did it.
A large fan in a doorway or window to exhaust the dust particles helps too. It would draw it away from his cars and other things.
Yeah, I thought the same thing. A wet saw and there's no dust. And you can clean up the slurry created before it dries to keep that from dusting up when it dries. They did okay with the circular saw and water. A proper concrete saw is basically just a bigger version.
I recently bought a pair of extendable poles that reach the ceiling. They're made by a company called Third Hand. They sell an attachment made to hold a piece of plastic from floor to ceiling. The plastic has a zippered door. I've used these many times when doing DIY projects. No dust, no pissed-off wife.
Let’s go!!! Can’t wait for the Texas house Reno!!!
We can't wait!
A GFCI measures the difference in current between your hot and neutral prongs in the outlet. No grounding required. In fact, when replacing outlets in a house that does not have a grounding system, NEC requires those outlets to be replaced with GFCI and labeled "No equipment ground". Using a double insulated tool should not be an issue.
My understanding is that double insulation means the cord and body are separated from continuity meaning there is no chance of residual current on the cord to the receptacle, so gfci would not work in the case of a traditional ground fault. This separates the user from being the dangerous path to ground/neutral while working in a wet situation.
Does this apply to battery packs? A blonde question probably, but I'm not much a electric guy past the breaker box of a house, I respect electricity so much I don't do more than 220 because 220 can kill you, so can 110, but that is scary enough..
Pretty sure you'd burn through batteries trying to cut for that long of time in cement, probably burn any brushless motor up too... I don't know,
I'm more cave man at 240 plus and would of hammered it without precuts, but I have seen the method used before as I was the water sprayer thinking huh, all be damned...
@@waliw3841 I'm interested to know how it wouldn't work? If the current leaving the outlet, traveling through the load and returning are not within a certain tolerance - typically 4-6mA - then the device assumes a ground fault is taking place and trips, opening the path.
Agreed. Most people do not realize that the grounding wires and neutral wires are connected in the vicinity of the panel/meter and are essentially both "grounds." Understanding the difference between "grounding" and "grounded" is generally what separates an electrician from most DIY'er. There are a lot of ways electric will work, but that's not the same as doing it "right" or to code to protect the equipment and the user.
@Robert Swaine That's definitely a much simpler way to explain it. Thanks! I'm used to talking to other electricians all day, hehe.
You used a tee on it's side, that needs to be replaced with a double wye.
What I love most is how joyful you look while doing grueling work. It's easy to forget that joy when you're in the thick of it, especially when things aren't behaving the way you'd like them to, hahaha. Thanks for making it look not only possible but a source of joy!
Food for thought next time youre connecting pvc to cast with the inner rubber. Measure and mark a refrence line on the pvc indicating the depth you need to go. That way once its in you wont have to remove it again.
As a non plumber remodeler i enjoy your diversity in skill sets. One helpful hint i would give though is ditch the Milwaukee blades and go with the diablo full carbide for cutting steel, they last much longer and cut faster. Cheers!
You and your son make such an awesome team! Love seeing the father son bond you two have. You guys are not afraid to tackle any project. Keep up the great work!
Jordan and Paul...the poster children for "Dirty Hands. Clean Money" ethos. Love your channel and the chemistry. This and Perkins Builder Brothers are my favorites!
I'm a purist! I would have removed the concrete even if it meant using a wetsaw and jackhammer to keep the dust down. I might have even brought in a low flow hose to keep the slab marginally flooded. I know ... expense, time and labor ... gotta make choices to fit the project into not only the monetary budget, but also the time frame budget. Can't wait until to see what is in store!
As a retired plumber i got a few laughs from your job. a saw cut would have been the right way to build that bathroom. The 3x2 cross laying on its side would not pass inspection in PA. With soil pipe, the gasket always goes in first.
i found it handy to drill couple of holes into the concrete, so the rocks would have space to move when chiseling
Drill a perimeter that’s how giant holes are made in concrete walls
When demoing out concrete floor, I use a 1/2” masonry bit, make Swiss cheese out of the floor, then chip it out! Works great concrete comes out in chunks
Same roto hammer drill
Also bought a 60lb roto hammer from harbor freight, 300$… I use that when I’m doing curbless showers
That was my first thought on how to do it.
I do not mind Jordan behind the camera. The sign of a great manager or team is knowing and utilizing everyone strengths while minimizing weaknesses. His strength is electronics. Nice video, thank you.
I opened my concrete slab to modify some plumbing last month, and I had a laugh at your bit getting stuck in the concrete and the struggle to get it out. Happened to me more than once! Good times.
Stud Pack videos are always a highlight of my day. You two look to have a great working relationship, and I’m always learning tons watching you guys. Keep ‘em coming!
As long as you only view them for entertainment. Don't expect anything these guys do to pass code inspection.
Love the channel, guys. Paul is the dad I always wished I had.
Double vanities with the entryway to the shower located between them is a really cool design, looking forward to seeing how that turns out.
Love it! Exciting new project series. I started with the oldest series and I am working forward. I’m so enjoying the evolution, the process and the projects.
Been frabricator 45 years,wood, steel, tin,decks ,bathrooms,additions. Seen alot of vids,but couldnt stop watching both of you. The kid helped and was upset for not beeing on video showing his effort,( very impresive).
Very infomative and liked the banter,( just as in real life). Hope to see you again,when looking for info and guidance.
Im replacing old cast iron toilet flange(50+plaster walls)need to smooth out inside rust so the expansion hub will seat in old rusted cast iron. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the good work guys hope to see you soon thanks
go to home depot and rent a rigid soil pipe cutter for $12. It technically doesnt "cut", but snaps the pipe and pops the cast iron just off.
Man @Stud Pack you really sure do have the “cliffhanger” ending down 200%.
Ya make it so not only do you draw ppl in w/ how both you Paul and Jordan interact, but how you guys work and the standards you have….which are high (very great imo👍🏻), and never miss the “details” which can break a project.
Always a great job, fun time watching and “hanging” w/ you both….and leave us always JUST WANTING MORE MORE MORE!
Well, till next time; have a great day/week.
Here’s to you Both✌🏻
Pretty low standards for audio quality
@@lewiskelly14 everyone's a critic. Where's your videos lewie?
You guys are great! Love the Dad Son thing, and all things building. Congrats on whatever success you are getting. Thank you for your content. You guys make my life better!
Just finished 2 hours of working on muddingw drywall in my basement and came up to this video. Sweet. Thanks for all the great content.
Man your dad is an animal, he never gives up and always with a smile! You’re one lucky son! 👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
Hey Stud Pack guys! I've only done a moderate amount of work like what you do on your channel and I mostly have no clue what's going on. But! I'm really loving the energy and enthusiasm you have for your craft. Watching your videos over the last week or so has shown me what happens when professionals take pride in their work. You guys not only make it fun to watch, but when you finish your projects, you end with some incredible works of art! Some of your projects are beautiful to say the least. One that comes to mind immediately is the microwave you installed in a kitchen cabinet that ended up with a small drawer added underneath. Not only was it incredibly informational, but it also felt like you loved showing all of us how and why you do what you do. That can be said about pretty much all the videos I've seen! It's easy to tell you enjoy what you do and that passion radiates throughout your videos. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing more :)
For things like that CI pipe, try a Hi-Lift farm jack. Wrap a chain and jacks right out. Great for cemented post. I also found it works great for huge stubborn concrete pads. Lift the section of pad up and toss something underneath for a void and pop away with a sledge. I came up with that one demoing my pool.
I love how you set the record straight about ground fault outlets without restoring to explaining anything. I wish I could be so concise.
16:13 Ya would think that right, but was demoing an old historic house that was previously remodeled and not only were hot/cold lines reversed everywhere, but whomever installed that cross you have, did indeed install it “backwards”….or “opposite flow”.
I had a similar demo around a pipe and what I found helpful was to use tapcon (concrete screws) into where I was removing. Every 3 or 4 inches screw in a tapcon and pull it out. It helps break down the concrete into sections and makes it easier to control how much you remove. P.s. I'm a rookie and you guys are awesome with these videos. It's greatly appreciated guys.
I love the channel guys I found you guys from the Perkins builder Brothers and I really enjoy your channel! Love the build keep up the good work!
I’m so grateful to see that. One people still take pride in their work ! And someone who knows what he is doing! Lookiniig forward to welcoming you to Texas! I live on the coast,but I’m willing to help y’all anytime!
You guys absolutely earn a “like” every time. Thanks for another great and informative video!
I'm really excited to see how this turns out. I'm so glad I found your channel. Edu-info-tainment at its best!
You've got the most awesome bathroom planned. Even a urinal !! Just back from a visit to Europe, my spouse and I fully discovered the joy of clean with a bidet. Have you considered that as part of your utimate bathroom? You got room... Please consider it.
As always you are all "must see TH-cam" for me and many others. Thanks guys !!
Exactly correct. GFCI measures an imbalance between neutral and hot...soooo many dont know this.
Yeah, if you needed a ground prong for GFCI they wouldn't work on hair dryers.
Love stud pack they have helped me redo many things my my house. Thanks guys. Keepup the good work.
Thank you Paul for labeling the videos by parts.
I work for a demo and tile removal company, that Bosch hammer is my favorite tool ever lol
Nice work around the cast iron. I've been thinking about digging down my basement for a 10 foot ceiling for a proper addition and seeing the concrete fall away from the iron was good to see. Stay safe, stay happy, and stay sane while you can.
Hi Guys, You guys do amazing work. My humble recommendation is the Doble TEE I would swap it for a Doble Y, I don't know the codes there but I think will be better.
This is a fantastic channel you guys! Now I just wish you two were closer so we could hire you to remodel our bathroom!
Really enjoyed it. Love the comments and explanations. Thanks for sharing. May God continue to bless and protect you and your family.
Oh god the old dewalt 18v, haven't seen a good one of those ever
Great progress guys. Paul, I wish you could have twisted the shop owners arm a bit more because I think demoing the slab would have been the right move. With copper lines that old, I'd replace them for fear of having thin walls and getting a pin hole leak in the near future. Also, creating a platform would make the restroom unfriendly for handicap access.
BTW isn't a 2x6 lumber 5-1/2" tall?
The one part of this build I would never want to do is breaking out the old drain low and putting in new connections. Redoing my bathroom and connecting to the PVC 'tree' in my basement with a couple connections was aggravating because if anything didn't fit just right and I messed up near the tree, there would be a ton of cut out and redoing! Great work and I'm glad this worked out with that rubber seal nicely. I thought it was going to be a difficult cut down low.
Jordan has multiple jobs: labor, camera operator, editor....Great job you two!
I’m so excited to see how this makeover turns out. 😁
Great work gang! Me and my dad had a project like that before! Framing the floor wasn't the most fun task but was definitely a learning experience. Especially maintaining your slope!
The twin tee (short turn fitting) was the wrong fitting for this application. They should only be used vertically in drains. In venting they can be laid on their side. When laying a fitting on its side in drainage you should always use a long turn fitting, in this case a double combo.
Would use a combo and a wye downstream with a 1/8th bend if u want the centers to line up
Just curious, would his set up pass inspection? (Does the remodel work require inspection in their county?) I'm genuinely curious based on what little I know about rough-in from being a flunky years ago.
@@FaceFaceMan it depends on where you live but around where I live none of what he did in this video would pass inspection.
@@FaceFaceMan it wouldn’t where I’m at in Austin tx. They’d make you get rid of the cross fitting and stack two combos instead. They won’t let you use double combos because the idea is if you slope one side it puts back fall on the other. I say just lay it flat and slope the pipe and you’ll be fine but that’s what they require.
@@joshcowart2446 that makes sense but here in Georgia I’ve passed inspection with double wye because you can slope the street 45s Slightly. But that double santee would never pass.
I like how you explain what you are doing and why. It is very informative. Thanks.
I love that PC saw, I have two. Both still going strong.
Those rubber "donuts" that connect the PVC to the cast iron can be a pain. There is no "standard" bell ID and different pipe manufacturers set their own standards. It really didn't matter back when they were using lead/oakum for the seal. For a given cast iron pipe size, the local stores like Home Depot and Lowes only carry the one that's the most common pipe diameters. It just so happens that my house built in the mid 50's uses a different donut than either of the 3 home stores in my area (HD/Lowes/Menards). Before you go ripping the plumbing apart, you better have plans 'B' and 'C' ready to go. Know where your local plumbing supply house is that sells to the pros. When the one from Home Depot doesn't fit, you can get the accurate ID of the hub you're working with and there's a good chance the pro supplier has the one you need. Make sure they do over-the-counter sales before you make that drive. If you have to order on-line you can expect a couple of days delay in the project. Also, make CERTAIN that the cast iron pipe is fully supported before you wail on the PVC with a sledge to drive that into the bushing/donut.... If the pipe is not supported, you can crack the pipe or damage the next lead/oakum seal in the pipeline.
I audibly cheered when you got the old cast iron pipe out lol. Gonna be an amazing bathroom!
Thank You Studpack for Sunday Fun today!! Keep Up The Good Work..
Had my doubts at the very beginning, but you did it! My amazement seems to continue along with your work!
Would have been nice if you all could have wet saw the concrete in squares and then break them individually with the rotary hammer while the floor is still wet. Great Job
Just curious if you have to have a plumbing inspection before you cover that plumbing
Nothing slows you two does it!
I had the same Schick. It was the best. It was my grandpa's from a long time ago. It was stolen from me in 2004.
Dont know wsne i saw one the first videos from your channel i saw but i love your work need more people like you who love what they do not just for money😍😍
I love the relationship you two have. Your videos are great.
meeeen why is it so relaxing to watch yall videos haha in first i like to learn, second i love to see skilled people create things, 3th the way the 2 of you interact is just relaxing :D and i love them southern accents :D
Always a joy to watch you work, pride in craftsmanship, big thanks.
I'm enjoying your videos a lot! Learning through them as well. Keep up the great work. By the way Welcome to Texas!
Another Great Stud pack video!! Im working hard to get my Home repair and reno business up and running. I learn so many cool tips from you guys!
I jackhammered a lot of tile for my house. The noise was LOUD! So I wore double hearing protection. Foamy ear plugs & ear muffs to save my hearing.
You guys are awesome! Thanks for the posts! Looking forward to the future work and videos!!
The proximity of the iron pipe to the copper just complicates the concrete created corrosion with a galvanic corrosion component from the dissimilar metals.
That double fixture fitting wont be able to be cabled downward in the future as the cable will cross over to the other side. This can also cause damage to the opposite side bathroom because a future plumber won't know that the fitting is placed like that. It would be much better to use a double combination, this way the sweep would ensure that the cable only goes downstream. It also wouldn't be too hard to expose a little more pipe in the ground and install two Wye fittings.
You make a good point.
New stud pack video always makes the day great!
The linear drains are sweet. They aren't as easy as a typical on tho. One comment guys if it's Schluter, do not run your fingers along the inside of the stainless fittings. It's super sharp. Same with the cover. I had the solid stainless cover when I did it. I heard the waffle faced one collects hair on the surface.
BTW that's funny but understandable what people say about the dbl insulated tool and GFCI. Glad you get the proper facts, I'm an electrician and you're right. Your guys filming and explaining is excellent.
Great Job as always from my favorite team!!
Loved the bird's eye view!
They make an adapter fitting to use in a cast iron bell gasket not sure if it's code where you live but it is where I am. Sure it wouldn't be a problem just might make it easier next time.
Another excellent YT video! I wish that the cast iron was leaded in instead of with that rubber bushing, only so I could see how you’d tackle that. Looking forward to seeing the transformation to a beautiful bathroom! Thanks
Teamwork makes the Dreamwork.
Thank you for sharing!
The many "Excalibur" moments on the daily jobsites, I remember them well.
Can you show in your next video how you get the correct slope on the pvc pipes. I guess the pipe connections allow for a little angle too.
At 18:26 - it would be hilarious if you added an LED bathroom mirror. I see remodelers use them in high-end homes in the San Francisco Bay Area.
I was shouting into the screen saying you need to lube that seal to get it out. Im glad you heard me.
Have you heard of the Aldrich tape measure. It’s a 25ft tape but the inch is broken down into decimals like the metric system. I found it on Amazon it’s really cool
My favorite channel!! Great job guys
The porter cable and the water bottle It's the same concept as a wet saw I do the same with my grinder with a diamond blade and a wet sponge held on the blade to cut tile and concrete
Another fantastic video!
While it would be very simple to insure there'd be no dust from cutting the concrete, I also like the way you're doing it. Will definitely be a faster overall install for the customer, but will also enable the large super-awesome restroom to be easily removed &/or repaired in the future.
Enjoyable video. Thanks for posting.
Those connections are meant to be locking joints.
You need to cut the pipe and use a furnco band clamp ( stainless and 2 strap type)
I like to run a shop vac next to the jackhammer during chipping to catch some of the dust.
you guys do great work we all just learn different tricks as we go, safety is big in my company
Hammer drill lots of shallow holes around the drain. Then chip away. It saves time and our backs.
Another great video. This bathroom is going to fantastic, especially for a shop.
Paul, instead of using soap check out 3M 08946 Clear Silicone Paste. Great for all kinds of applications, just make sure you don’t apply it to anything that you want to glue/cement or don’t want to be slippery.
Great job, father and son team, very educational videos.
I pull steel post or chain link post with a pipe wrench and hi lift jack.
Deburr, bevel one side but not the others? Get a Reed Deb4 if your gonna run some pipe. Otherwise you're not doing it right since the edge is scraping and pooling the glue towards the inside of the fitting instead of spreading as it should.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Ascension parish here we have cast iron sewer lines under our concrete slab with the lead in the joints built around the same time as the one in the video. I hope I never have to replace them .well at least not anytime soon 😱
Hi, a bit of heat shrink over the strain reliefs of the mic cables may help with them cutting out.