Thanks 1aatuo for this how-to and specifically torque settings. To those who recommended the caliper bolts to push the rotor off, those threads were rusted enough in my case that would have been a bad idea. Luckily the rotor was easily removed. Also, per the owner's manual on this vehicle, wheel torque is 80ftlb, not 90-100.
Remove the Wheel - 19mm socket + breaker bar, loosen lug nuts before raising car
Removing the Brake Pads - behind the rotor remove 2x 12mm bolts holding the pad caliper - pull the caliper toward outside of vehicle to force piston into caliper - the caliper should come loose, you need to hang it or set it somewhere - until you are ready to reconnect it when the job is done (bungee helps) - brake pads should come out of their brackets by hand
Removing the Brake Rotor - after having removed the pads, remove the pad brackets by unscrewing 2x 14mm bolds on inner side of pad brackets - (optional: if rotors are stuck/very old) use an impact driver/hammer and strike near the studs to help break any rotor binding
Installing the New Brake Rotor - place new rotor on your buddy - there are two (i think optional) screws that hold the rotor in place, place these Installing the New Brake Pads - (optional) with wire brush, clean pad brackets, and also re-lube or inspect your pin slides on the bracket to make sure theyre lubed up bruh - screw back in the pad brackets, 2x 12mm (45 ft/lbs) - use a c-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper so you can slide the caliper back on - with the caliper back in place, re-screw the 2x 12mm bolts (20ft/lbs) Reattaching the Wheel - place all 5 lugs on by hand first - re-tighten lug nuts w/ torque wrench in a star pattern - 19mm 5x (90-100 ft/lbs) Testing the Brakes - pump brakes slowly a few times before any driving to help get the piston seated against the pads properly, the pedal shoudl feel firm - test brakes at low speeds first. - avoid sudden stopping when wearing in your brakes.
I laughed when I saw with what ease the rotor was removed, not to mention the easy use of the impact screwdriver. No way that happened to me in the last 30 years of DIY brakes replacement (in IL).
FEEDBACK: Get a mic, sounds hollow, better lighting needed as well as better camera angles. For example, as you spun a part of the braking system around to the back no one know what you did w/ it how you hung it, etc. Don’t assume viewers are ok seeing camera angle after one time. Make sure camera in focus b/4 panning away. You had good knowledge, very nice set-up, FF when needed to, straight to the point.
For forgot to instruct people how to remove the little rubber plug , turn the rotor until the little e-brake star wheel is visible, and loosen the star wheel in order to loosen the e-brake shoes, and that they can use two M8x25 coarse bolts in the threaded holes in the rotor to break the rotor free.
normaly i have to heat those retaining screws up till they are bright red on a honda and then i can screw them off. impact drivers just seem to round them for me. love your vids
I'm doing my rear brakes & rotors tomorrow, did the front yesterday, ezpz BUT I heard the rear piston isn't just pushed in? I heard it needs to be screwed in & it can be tricky...? They don't address this in the video so is one to assume the rear brake piston just pushes in & doesn't screw in? This is an important piece of info
Great vid and thanks for the detailed explanation. Happen to have one replacing calipers on a 2004 Honda Odyssey? So far can't find much on you tube for my specific vehicle.
If they are smooth and do not have grooves in them, and have plenty of meat left on them than you can just changed the pads. If they show any signs of wear or damage, they should be replaced. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
+yjxu66 There are no specs on those, just tighten by hand. They are simply there to hold the rotor in place during installation and do not affect function. Here is a link to the brake rotors if you are interested in purchasing them! www.1aauto.com/1A/BrakePadAndRotorKits/Honda/Odyssey/1ABFS00453?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&AqDZ-gk3s
+Hogan Baily The dust cap covers the axle in the rear, it isn't attached to the brake rotor. We would have shown how to reinstall it if it was. Thanks for watching. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
OH ok, I saw when I replayed that the cap was on the axle. That confused me since it was not on when you put the wheel back on. Anyway, I bought the pads/rotor kit from 1aauto.com and will be doing the work myself when the weather is better at the end of the week. Thanks!
+Hogan Baily Thank you for your order. If you would like to leave us a review on Google it would be greatly appreciated. Here is a link to our reviews section. Have a great day! goo.gl/i5JFNY
+Amanda Johnson Thank you for watching. If it seems as if the rotor is too tight to fit in place we recommend double checking that the caliper piston(s) are compressed fully. 1aauto.com
No one will answer me anywhere!!! Why is there close to ZERO information on working on a 1998 Honda Odyssey? There has got to be a reason why the info is so scarce. Maybe because this model was completely manufactured in Japan? Someone who knows, PLEASE help!!
The retaining screws seem like the most useless engineering design for brakes I've ever run into. The only purpose they seem to serve is to make it harder for the common man (or woman) work on there own brakes.
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Who are the 46 people who downvoted/disliked this video? This video is super clear and well filmed.
+jacob rheaume Thank you!
Thanks 1aatuo for this how-to and specifically torque settings. To those who recommended the caliper bolts to push the rotor off, those threads were rusted enough in my case that would have been a bad idea. Luckily the rotor was easily removed. Also, per the owner's manual on this vehicle, wheel torque is 80ftlb, not 90-100.
Remove the Wheel
- 19mm socket + breaker bar, loosen lug nuts before raising car
Removing the Brake Pads
- behind the rotor remove 2x 12mm bolts holding the pad caliper
- pull the caliper toward outside of vehicle to force piston into caliper
- the caliper should come loose, you need to hang it or set it somewhere
- until you are ready to reconnect it when the job is done (bungee helps)
- brake pads should come out of their brackets by hand
Removing the Brake Rotor
- after having removed the pads, remove the pad brackets by unscrewing
2x 14mm bolds on inner side of pad brackets
- (optional: if rotors are stuck/very old) use an impact driver/hammer
and strike near the studs to help break any rotor binding
Installing the New Brake Rotor
- place new rotor on your buddy
- there are two (i think optional) screws that hold the rotor in place,
place these
Installing the New Brake Pads
- (optional) with wire brush, clean pad brackets, and also re-lube or
inspect your pin slides on the bracket to make sure theyre lubed up bruh
- screw back in the pad brackets, 2x 12mm (45 ft/lbs)
- use a c-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper so you can slide
the caliper back on
- with the caliper back in place, re-screw the 2x 12mm bolts (20ft/lbs)
Reattaching the Wheel
- place all 5 lugs on by hand first
- re-tighten lug nuts w/ torque wrench in a star pattern -
19mm 5x (90-100 ft/lbs)
Testing the Brakes
- pump brakes slowly a few times before any driving to help get the
piston seated against the pads properly, the pedal shoudl feel firm
- test brakes at low speeds first.
- avoid sudden stopping when wearing in your brakes.
Thx for going over bolt slides, I had one that wouldn’t move .
I laughed when I saw with what ease the rotor was removed, not to mention the easy use of the impact screwdriver. No way that happened to me in the last 30 years of DIY brakes replacement (in IL).
FEEDBACK: Get a mic, sounds hollow, better lighting needed as well as better camera angles. For example, as you spun a part of the braking system around to the back no one know what you did w/ it how you hung it, etc. Don’t assume viewers are ok seeing camera angle after one time. Make sure camera in focus b/4 panning away. You had good knowledge, very nice set-up, FF when needed to, straight to the point.
+Greg Schreffler We appreciate your feedback. This happens to be one of our older videos.
For forgot to instruct people how to remove the little rubber plug , turn the rotor until the little e-brake star wheel is visible, and loosen the star wheel in order to loosen the e-brake shoes, and that they can use two M8x25 coarse bolts in the threaded holes in the rotor to break the rotor free.
normaly i have to heat those retaining screws up till they are bright red on a honda and then i can screw them off. impact drivers just seem to round them for me. love your vids
This helped out alot! Now I'm doing this
+Flam cloud Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Awesome instruction. Very much appreciated!
Thanks for the great video! It helped a lot.
I'm doing my rear brakes & rotors tomorrow, did the front yesterday, ezpz BUT I heard the rear piston isn't just pushed in? I heard it needs to be screwed in & it can be tricky...? They don't address this in the video so is one to assume the rear brake piston just pushes in & doesn't screw in? This is an important piece of info
+William Yoga We do not have a video for this, but there are lots of them out there on how to push the rear piston in. Thanks for watching.
Thank you
Does this work on a 1998 Odyssey? I never can seem to find videos for the 98. Do you know why by chance?
Great vid and thanks for the detailed explanation. Happen to have one replacing calipers on a 2004 Honda Odyssey? So far can't find much on you tube for my specific vehicle.
We currently do not have an auto repair video on that particular year, make and model vehicle. Thank you for asking. 1aauto.com
I usually replace the rotor screws on Honda's whenever I do rotors because they're so cheap from the dealership
Thank you very much
Do you have to get new rotors when changing out rear breaks?
If they are smooth and do not have grooves in them, and have plenty of meat left on them than you can just changed the pads. If they show any signs of wear or damage, they should be replaced. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
You don't have to, but if you have the money to do it you may as well as you've already done 80% of the work by the time you have the caliper off
Do the pads under the rotor have to be changed?
+I Fix Things Those are the emergency brakes, they should be inspected and replaced as needed. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
you can use 2 bolts to push off the rotor
The the rotor have the holes to do this you can also try this method. Thanks for watching. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Thanks for posting
No mention of the park brake shoes.
when I google search "impact driver", all I get are drills. Is there another name for what that device you hammered on the wheel?
I looked on harbor freight for "impact screwdriver" and that helped
Totally neglected the inspection, repair or adjustment of emergency brake in this video.
What's the torque spec for the two #3 Philips screws holding the rotor? Thank you.
+yjxu66 There are no specs on those, just tighten by hand. They are simply there to hold the rotor in place during installation and do not affect function. Here is a link to the brake rotors if you are interested in purchasing them! www.1aauto.com/1A/BrakePadAndRotorKits/Honda/Odyssey/1ABFS00453?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&AqDZ-gk3s
I would have popped the metal dust cap off the old rotor and installed on the new rotor =)
+Hogan Baily The dust cap covers the axle in the rear, it isn't attached to the brake rotor. We would have shown how to reinstall it if it was. Thanks for watching. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
OH ok, I saw when I replayed that the cap was on the axle. That confused me since it was not on when you put the wheel back on. Anyway, I bought the pads/rotor kit from 1aauto.com and will be doing the work myself when the weather is better at the end of the week. Thanks!
+Hogan Baily Thank you for your order. If you would like to leave us a review on Google it would be greatly appreciated. Here is a link to our reviews section. Have a great day! goo.gl/i5JFNY
anybody have trouble getting the new rotor on. My is to tight
+Amanda Johnson Thank you for watching. If it seems as if the rotor is too tight to fit in place we recommend double checking that the caliper piston(s) are compressed fully. 1aauto.com
No one will answer me anywhere!!! Why is there close to ZERO information on working on a 1998 Honda Odyssey? There has got to be a reason why the info is so scarce. Maybe because this model was completely manufactured in Japan? Someone who knows, PLEASE help!!
Thank you for watching. Unfortunately we do not many videos for your application. We will keep this vehicle in mind for future videos.
888-844-3393
Look for a manual - Haynes produces decent manuals covering most DIY type procedures.
Christ almighty!!! Drum brakes AND disk brakes?!!!! WTF!!!
The retaining screws seem like the most useless engineering design for brakes I've ever run into. The only purpose they seem to serve is to make it harder for the common man (or woman) work on there own brakes.
Thanks for the comments and for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Chris Connell