Door & Drawer Fingerpulls with Ovolo scribe
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 พ.ค. 2018
- Hi everyone. In this video I show you how I go about using an Ovolo scribe cutter to make finger-pulls in doors and drawers. Enjoy!
Please use the ‘Like’ button if you liked this video.
Please subscribe if you think you’d like to see more.
Support me directly on Patreon - www.patreon.com/10minuteworkshop
Full list of ‘Stuff I use’ at www.10minuteworkshop.com
Connect with me on twitter @10minuteshop
Connect with me on Instagram - 10minuteworkshop
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made through these links.
Wherever possible links are to actual products used, but this is not always possible e.g. some products are not available in the US, so something similar has been linked to instead.
Amazon UK - www.amazon.co.uk/shop/petermi...
As an eBay Partner Network member, I earn from qualifying purchases made through these links.
eBay UK - bit.ly/Buy_eBay_UK
Used/featured in this video:-
Ovolo scribe - bit.ly/2HDcb4A
Other frequently used stuff:-
Plastic packers - amzn.to/2vCDN27 (US:amzn.to/2vHk4fZ)
Festool TS55 Tracksaw - amzn.to/2pGvzDS (US: amzn.to/2oOgGhw)
Festool Domino - amzn.to/2pVSnMk (US: amzn.to/2o7E22Q)
Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Festool Kapex 120 - amzn.to/2oYOXeq (US: amzn.to/2o7D3zL)
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Festool ETS 150/5 - amzn.to/2sapsq9 (US: amzn.to/2ssbZgq)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Japanese folding pocket saw - goo.gl/DlcyPw
Spax MDF screws - amzn.to/2pj5FX5 (US: amzn.to/2oOh7Zu)
Tongue-tite screws - amzn.to/2ouKU5I (US: amzn.to/2pGBVk3)
Maestri ME606 electric nailer/stapler - amzn.to/2pNm7ye (US: amzn.to/2pGMfuf)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Spax screws - amzn.to/2oYWydc (US: amzn.to/2oOjkDT)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
Silicone brush set - amzn.to/2guo6Sm (US: amzn.to/2yEWbZI)
Silicone brush (single) - amzn.to/2l5rNTD (US: amzn.to/2zqFaQl)
Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2svT03N (US: amzn.to/2rmHYL3)
Photo/video gear
Main camera Panasonic Lumix G80 - amzn.to/2o7uPrx (US - G85: amzn.to/2ouTwJV)
Olympus 12-40 f/2.8 - amzn.to/2sz34Xy (US: amzn.to/2sbYkte)
Second camera Panasonic FZ200 - amzn.to/2pj8p6Z (US: amzn.to/2oYSGJ0)
Rode Videomic Pro - amzn.to/2oTAr5W (US: amzn.to/2oOp54A) - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![Fingerpulls with an Ovolo scribe [video #335]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IVFZ2IaIE88/mqdefault.jpg)
![Fingerpulls with an Ovolo scribe [video #335]](/img/tr.png)
![อาจารย์ยอด : พระเตะผี [ผี]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zusDOIFasaE/mqdefault.jpg)
![ช่วยพาฉันผ่านเวลา - วสันต์17 [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HFnntWoqc54/mqdefault.jpg)
![Shaker-style doors in MDF [video 405]](/img/n.gif)
Been using Wealden Tool router cutters for about 3yrs now & very good pricing & top quality.
Forget Trend over priced garbage cutters, once you used Wealden you won't go back to Trend. Titman cutters are also superb (used to make Trends cutter but haven't for years now) don't know who makes Trends cutters now but the quality is no better than the cheap cutters I get off Amazon which to be fair for most jobs are more than good enough & last well.
I have the Festool OF2200 & didn't realise just how much superior the dust extraction was than the OF1400 & OF1010
Always a pleasure to watch your lessons. Thanks a lot.
Thanks!
Thats awesome as always Peter, thanks for sharing your amazing knowledge
Thanks Simon. And I’m just learning by doing 👍👍
Nice work around Peter,got there in the end!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers Alan - but if a slog this one, lol! 👍👍
Thank you very much! you have answered my questions with that kind of pull, keep up the good work!!!
Thanks! 👍
Thanks Peter for another great video. As always the client gets what they want, but I must confess I think the corners look better rounded than squared off. Thanks again, Bob.
Thanks Bob! Don’t disagree, but the squared-off corners is their ‘house style’ so I’m just continuing that theme 👍👍
Great tutorial - with an interesting cutter - It is amazing what you can do with a router.
Thanks! And yes, they are amazingly versatile machines. 👍👍
Thanks Peter , love the videos keep up the great work 👍🏻
Thanks Matt!
Nice out. If it works it's the right way. That's the beauty of bespoke. Bespoke ways of operation too!
Yep. Got there in the end, lol!
Interesting as always! Congrats for the growth of your channel!
Thanks! 👍
Great video, really well presented
Thanks! 👍
Yes, very informative.
That’s an option, certainly - if there was to be a ‘next time’ 🤔
The information has been posted. Even if there is no “next time”. It was made available for anyone to understand the challenges. However, remember the saying: never say never.
enjoying the podcasts btw.
Thanks James 👍👍
Excellent job as usual, rock steady hands for sure
All in the wrist action 👍👍😂
Peter Millard 😱😂
thank you, I am trying to replicate some furniture and I had no idea how make the pulls,
I do now
thanks , chris-custom-touch-woodworking
Thanks! Glad it helped See also the follow-on vid #179 for a subscriber-suggested easy way to do them safely👍👍
Wow your channel is growing, Great tutorial Peter. I always do those jobs outside on a windy day.
Thanks Adam! 👍
Great video Peter, and thanks for the Wealden Tools tip. I didn't know about these guys, and I've now ordered a router cutter beading bit for a forthcoming wardrobe project!
Cheers Charlie - great channel BTW! 👍👍 Yeah, Wealden are great, pretty sure I’m still using some of the first cutters I bought from them. Shame they don’t do an affiliate program, lol 😂
Thanks! Yes, I could say that about every tool I give publicity to on my channel! I trust Makers Central went well?
Yeah, tell me about it! I wasn’t at Makers Central unfortunately - I had a long-standing family trip to New York planned, but I’ll be there next time 👍👍
Hi Peter, just done a video inspired by your tip about the router bits from Wealden Tools - th-cam.com/video/wSzvahiNF4Y/w-d-xo.html @ 7.47 minutes. Thanks again!
Excellent results Peter. I have some Wealden router cutters myself and are excellent.
Thanks Lee. And yep, great cutters 👍
great Millard
Holy mother of moo cow ,man.
You weren't kidding about the amount of dust!!!
Good job on working that one through, bit of a pita though. 👍
Yep, another one to add to my ‘never again...’ list, lol! Worked out OK though 👍👍
Hi peter, a wider baseplate screwed to the router helps a lot to keep the router flat. Use polycarbonate or perspex to keep sight of where to start and end.
I'm just doing some circular finger pulls (mid c Danish style). I purchased one of the ovolo scribe cutters as cheaper than the dedicated finger pull cutters. Good idea to remove the bulk of the material with a straight cutter as cheaper. I plan to allow air through the jig in order to aid extraction. Thanks for your help
Pleasure, thanks for watching! 👍
In my opinion, as mentioned by someone before, I suggest fitting a large perspex piece to the router base.
Hi Peter. I make the same pulls and have been where you are. I ended up making a template that goes all the way around so that the router is supported front and back all the time. Really just a square hole in a piece of 6mm plywood with a glued on list on the backside to assure the same size handles every time. .I still do 2 runs, since there is too much material to remove in one go. On the first run I can (luckily) fit the much better dust collection (plastic house around the router bit), since the router bit is smaller. I run the OF 1400 router
Thanks! Yes, I think that’s the way I’d do it in future - except I’m never doing these again, lol! 😂👍👍
That was my thought watching the video, especially if you have enough shank length to use 8mm or 10mm ply for the template. But you could also use scrap to support it so it wouldn't necessarily need to be very strong. Whatever works :)
I faced the same problem , Without having that finishing bit: first step was creating the recess as you did, then on a router table defined start and stop and with a vertical candle bit I’ve created the deeper recess : as an hobbyist it worked but with that job finish is clearly cleaner
Just clamp down a support strip the exact height of the mdf plus the template. The router can't tilt backwards and you don't need to worry about maintaining hand pressure on the router base plate.
That is a really good idea.
Nice job. I've had to do similar before and my solution to both speed things up and better support the router was to gang two drawers together along the long edge, and route the recesses of both as a single rectangle in the middle (if that makes sense). Probably not practical in this case though, given the awkward size of the pieces you're working with.
Thanks Ian - that’s a great idea, if the workpieces allow. I’ll file that one away 👍👍
Super interesting to see how that's done, I don't envy you doing that many finger pulls in MDF, the dust must be horrendous even with dust collection.
Thanks! And yep, never had a cutter throw out that much dust, absolutely filthy. 😕
You were a subject/victim of Queen: Another one bites the dust LOL
Hello Peter,
I hate topsy-turvy routers. They frighten the crap out of me because I like my home grown digits.
I have a bosch fixed base trim router and a dewalt monster. I have removed the OEM baseplate from both and made new ones.
The bosch has a 10mm thick base made from acrylic which is the same as the oem black one but it extends out the back but some 3 inches slightly tapering. This allows me to hold the body with one hand and steady it flat against the workpiece for extra control and support.
The dewalt has a 10mm aluminium square plate made for it which also doubles as a router table insert but works gr8 while hand routing.
If you don't need it as a router table router then one could be made the same as my bosch but in aluminium but with a knob at the back for added control.
Works for me and I get to keep my digits.
Hope this helps.
I fyou need pics let me know.
Regards Alec
If I ever do a carve like that, I make a support of the same materials to get both sides of the base supported. If that isn't possible, I use a home made lexan plate to extend the base so it can reach support.
Easier on a router table, if you have the room for a long fence. Let's say you want the drawer front to be 600mm wide and the pull to be 150mm wide. (Go with me here, I don't speak Metric) Install a fence maybe 800mm long centered on the bit. Add a stop block on the left and right positioned so you can slide the drawer front in toward the fence, keeping it parallel to the fence and against the right stop block and then move it to the left stop block and then straight out. So, the right stop controls the left end of the cut and the left one controls the right end. The stop blocks should be wide enough to make it easy to slide the work in and out and remain in solid contact with the block. Say 3 or 4 times the "depth" of the pull. By fiddling with the position of the stop blocks you control the width and position of the pull. They don't have to be symmetrical. On a door they could be near one end if that's what you need.
I use the same set up on my drill press to drill the cup holes for Euro hinges.
Some of these doors were almost 1000mm wide but only ~350 high. There’s no way I’ll be pushing that perpendicular to the fence with any degree of repeatability without some kind of sliding table 🤷♂️
Hi Peter, I have the of1400 and I bought the track guide for it , but I found that if I don't put it on the track, the plastic guides are flush with the router base so they make an excellent support handle and can be adjusted out as far as you need to keep the router steady, hope that makes sense.
Good tip, thanks! Don’t have a OF1400, but must check the 2000 & 1010 to see if they’re the same 👍👍
As usually, when I start to look for how to do something, I realize, that Peter already did video about it 😂.
😆😂👍
In this situation I've seen people use a custom extended router base with a pressure handle so you have more support area bearing on the work piece. I tend to make use of collars to run in enlarged templates so I can use standard bits with no bearing guides. Needs a simple calculation knowing the collar and cutter size to work out the enlargement of the desired shape to get the template. I'd do 2 passes too, final one on a table. Nice result, I really like the clean minimalist look of integral pulls myself; the customer should love the final result.
Thanks Norman. Yes, lots of ways to skin this cat; as mentioned below, I only had an hour or so to do nine of these, so I had to get on with it with what I had. Curious how you’d do the final pass on a table, given the shape?? P
I couldn't do 9 in an hour !! With the router inverted in a table, the bearing set just above the surface so would run in the first pass cutout. Just as you were doing it, but upside down, drawer front against the table... But all that would've taken MUCH longer to set up, and I recognise that I tend to pick the most complicated way of doing stuff ;-) I'm doing it for fun so I don't have the time pressures. Also I love using the router !
In the house Mr and Mrs OneEyedPhotographer built in the mid 70s, our kitchen cupboards had handles projecting from the upper edges of the underbench doors, angled down. We adults found them very easy to open, the tin lids did not.
great finger pulls look very high end i would have put the same thickness material at the front to stop it from dipping but very good all the same
Yep, me too, if I had any, or if I had time, or if... 😂👍😬
Loving that green finish on thumb nail (inside an emerald? ;) )
Looks like a cnc outsource next time perhaps?
Thanks Tom. There will be no next time! Or maybe a CNC outsource, now you’ve thought of it, lol! 👍👍
Good video Peter. I shared this video with my nephew as he got the wood working bug from me showing him how to buil things and he has been producing good work as a novice. He is about to make some cabinets with drawers. He is using the very same hardware and setup as your are but he asked if you have a video showing how to build the drawer boxes and have a video on installing the drawer hardware ? I would help him but live in a diffent state. Thank you Peter.
Ron
Thanks! Can’t go wrong with Blum Movento, great runners 👍👍
Very well done Peter. Definitely squeeky bum time trying to keep the routers flat. Would you have had room to set the drawer front further along your table and fixed sacrifice material the same thickness as the front and template just to keep the router supported?
Really impressed with your finish on the MDF frames.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks John. I could only do that for some of the workpieces - and tbh it only occurred to me after I'd done most of them - but yes, that would have made life a little easier. But it was a job, I was working the weekend, and I needed to get them done 👍
Of course the easy way is to make a foot the same thickness as the stock board from a piece of scrap screwed on to the base to lift the router base to the same height as the board, then machine the work on a large flat level board. I've used this technique many times with my Trend T11, the beast! I use a new piece each time out in case of thickness variation in the stock board, especially Ply!
You all prolly dont care but does any of you know a method to log back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot the account password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Eugene Gannon Instablaster :)
@Cash Jaziel I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Cash Jaziel It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out !
@Eugene Gannon no problem =)
Hiya have you thought of making the cut out all the way through so you can jig saw the waste out then put the moulding on a make a rebate to put a 6mm piece for the flat area? Hope that makes sense?
An interesting tip. Nice one. How about making the template wider so it supports the other side of the router? How about using a guide bush for the first cut? The dust collection seems quite poor. I thought festool was supposed to be good at dust collection!
Yes, many ways this cut could have been made easier, but time pressures meant I just had to crack on with it as I best could. Dust collection is always difficult on a router, but almost impossible where the bit isn't fully enclosed; I've also had to remove some of the dust collection cover to use this particular bit. 👍
Nice job there, Like how it looks. If you plan to do that or similar stuff more often, consider making a bigger (in surface) router base. Use what you have, acrylic glas no less than 6 mm thick, plywood, mdf... about 8-10 mm min. Remove the base, transfer the holes and attach the new one. Make it round or with one side flat. So you free hand it or gide inside a frame. One thing more, you can also leave one side of the new base longer so you can put some weight on the base (brick or something) beside the router that will glide on the rest of the flat surface and make much more stable run less prone to tilt or small jitters and kick, not that working on mdf suffers from that :) Keep up the good work!
Thanks. If I have any more of these to do I’ll farm it out to someone with a CNC. 👍👍
Or you can do that :) what ever makes it... I am more of a type, lets get it done with stuff you have, or if you don't have it, make it :) Not always viable but....
Peter, I don’t understand why you wouldn’t double stick tape the template on and turn it over on the router table. Heck, since it is painted MDF you could even screw a template on and fill the holes later. I would probably use a template bit to hog it out hand-held and keep the drawer pull bit set up in the table.
Ovolo scribe cutter's an 8mm shank, don't have an 8mm collet for the table router. Also, I had 9 to do and about an hour to do them in; I'd done a test and it had worked great, but when it came to the real thing it didn't play nicely, so I needed to work it out fast, and this is what worked. 👍
Those bits work well on a router table but as it's a face down partial depth cut you need to build a bit of a jig with stops to get the overall dimensions right and make it nice and repeatable. I am surprised you managed as well as you have with a low power hand held router like that, you must have a steadier hand than me for sure even with a 2.5KW table router it still bogged down if pushed a bit too hard.
Hello again Peter,
A quick thought, why not make a large template which has a hole in the middle that has the profile of two hand pulls. Then clamp two boards together and route out two hand pulls at the same time. That way the router is supported all ways and the job gets done twice as fast❓❓❓❓
Regards Alec
👍 Video #’179
Excactly how I did it and I got perfect results! Little bit of sanding and putting putty paste to flush the roughnes out, And off to the painter.
ôh I love theme
Couldn't you move the work piece away from the edge of the bench and support the outside part if the router base with some scrap? I have a small router (1/4 inch collet) but still try to constrain it's motion as much as I can before cutting.
Bigger Perspex base on the router
Do you have a video on how you sprayed the draw fronts?
I covered it in the Spraying Adventures series, there’s a playlist with everything on it here 👍 - bit.ly/SprayingAdventures
19k 👍🏻
Yep! 😆😆👍👍
by the time you're done your shirt will be the same colour as your pants !
It was, pretty much! Never had a cutter throw out so much dust, horrible!
Very nice. I see at the being of the video, one of the drawer fronts are painted. Can you tell me what paints they are using for the finish they get.
Thanks! The Green gloss? It’s Benjamin Moore Advanced, sprayed with a Graco Ultramax cordless airless sprayer.
Strange I had been searching for something like this and your channel never came up, I watched some other channels that had something near to what you were doing but not quite what I needed and low and behold TH-cam recommends your video to me 3 days later. This is exactly what I needed. To me when making shop furniture I wanted to keep the draw pulls recessed. It just makes architectural sense, you are moving around the shop and you have all sorts of things that could end up snagging on a drawer knobs and pulls. It just didn't make any sense why wood workers insist on adding draw pulls to their shop drawers. Keeping a clean faced drawer IMO looks so much better.
I also ha just discovered Peters video and have learned more in two months than all the other videos I have seen since I retired 😊
Maybe a bit late, but wasn't it possible to place the drawer face further on the table and use a piece of scrap close to the cut part to rest the router on and keep it level?
Lovely work as always.
Do you think if you put two of these draw covers back to back (flat on the table) and cut two at the same time with one large template it might offer better support?
You encouraged me to have a go at this method of draw pulls which is what I need for a 'no sticky outty handle' solution I need.
Thanks! That’s the exact solution Ian Phillip mentions in an earlier comment, though I think in this instance the doors/drawers are too big to do this comfortably, it’s a great idea 👍👍
Parafinn Lamp have you tried what you suggest ? How did it work out need to do it myself seems a good idea
Make a acrylic base for your router
I like the finger pull idea, great video!! where did you buy the collet please?
I just bought it online - FFX maybe, NB&D? I just do a search and buy from whoever has them in stock for my router👍
You need to support the other side of the router. with a strip of wood or scrap. the same thickness as the mdf+template. That keeps the router perfectly at 90 degrees. You cant counteract the forces that come from a routing bit digging in, or go against the grain. make a jig.
Watch the follow-up video #179 for the best solution 👍
I have some questions? Drawer pulls on MDF sheet? If the drawer is loaded too much the MDF behind the Pull, will stress fracture and de-laminate, till one fateful day, the whole front comes off in your hand! Also how are you moisture/ Humidity sealing the bare machined back of the door pull? I'd have gone to HDF or a solid wood drawer front just to be safe!
Nope, never happens. I only use MR MDF which has a much denser core than perhaps what you’re used to. Check some of my previous videos, you’ll see that O make this kind of cut all the time in MR MDF without issues. 👍
Hello, Peter. I’m wondering if wouldn’t have been easier to route the full depth with the straight bit and then just route the recess on the rim? Greetings
Nice job Peter. A bearing guided straight bit would certainly have taken some of the anxiety out of the first cut! Will there be hardware fitted to the pull? I am wondering about the strength of the MDF after continued use without something making it stronger.
Thanks Mark - and yes, but I have to use what I have to hand, lol! No hardware on the pull - it’s plenty strong enough 👍👍
Or just a slightly oversized pattern follower would work even better, it gives you the flexibility to plunge the bit where you want it without relying on the bearing to be against the template.
Why not have stops on right and left to stop the router chipping the template.seeing as there is a stop along the back of the template.
I'd have to remove them to use the finger pull cutter - I don't like to move the template between cuts.
What size router bit did you use to suit 22mm mdf.
Great vid as usual
Thanks! I used the 12.7mm in 22mm MDF. 👍👍
Nice work, Peter. Which diameter ovolo bit did you use? Thanks!
Thanks! I’ll have to check and get back to you on size - from memory it was the 11mm, but I’ll check and confirm later when I’m back in the workshop. 👍
What color is that on the cover image on the beginning? That's nice
It’s Benjamin Moore Advanced, either green 2044-10 or deep green 2039-10, in hi-gloss. 👍
maybe a silly question - but that mdf stock you're using is that 18mm? btw, thanks for all you work/videos, they are fantastic
Thanks Matthew! No, these were 22mm I think - maybe 25, but pretty sure it was 22mm 👍👍
Can we use block board for this
As long as you’re happy seeing the internal layers, you could use whatever you like. 👍
Maybe u covered this, but why don't u use a base like your lipping/edgeing trimmer router?
Thanks. Just a question of time really - I didn’t have any more, lol! 👍
I know it's an old upload.
Why don't you use a face plate on the router? I have a cheap one set up for whenever I need better surface referencing. Trend sell them.
I do like recessed finger pulls.
Thanks.
As always great video. Personally hate working with MDF and routers due to the dust. It's just terrible, but I just wanted to ask what mask are you using? Is it any good? Cheers
Thanks Tomasz. That mask was a Wickes one, I think, just a P2 mask, nothing special. I've been using a 3M 4277 recently that's a nicer fit, and P3, too; it doesn't have replaceable cartridges, but feels much nicer to wear 👍amzn.to/2jVQ0Z9
Peter Millard thank you:)
Is that 18mm material Peter?
I've got the 'small drawer pull' cutter and though you can just about get hold of it with a finger tip, the radius isn't really big enough to get a full finger in it. Think I need the bigger cutter you appear to have....but just wondered if that still works in 18mm.
Hey Chris. It’s 22mm, so there’s a bit more ‘meat’ to play with. Also the drawer pull cutters are different from the ovolo scribe - they def need 22mm minimum 👍
Yeah 22mm is definitely an absolute minimum for a decent fingerpull
What are the colored plastic looking pieces you are using as spacers?
Plastic packers - amzn.to/2vCDN27 (US:amzn.to/2vHk4fZ) - sometimes called shims or spacers. Links in the video description, btw. 👍👍
Did the bits not need sharpening, assuming they can be sharpened, part way through?
No, there were only 9 handle cut-outs to do, so not a huge amount of wear on the bit. 👍👍
Hey peter may I ask where you got this cutter please
Hi Jerry. Links to most things used/featured in the video are in the video description, full list of ‘stuff I use’ at 10minuteworkshop.com. In this video I used this bit: Ovtolo scribe - bit.ly/2HDcb4A 👍👍
Super job, great attention to detail. How did you get the lovely gloss finish that's shown on the cover photo? It looks like a vehicle paint.
Thanks! Paint is Benjamin Moore Advanced Gloss, sprayed with a Graco UltraMax cordless airless. There'll be a video soon... 👍
Excited for the Graco video!
Lovely job.
I have always worried about MDF dust as being carcinogenic. Am I wrong?
It’s formaldehyde that’s the carcinogen, and all MDF manufactured within the EU has essentially been formaldehyde free for many years. Full uk he’s data sheet here - bit.ly/MDF_FAQ. More info in video 290, Just How Toxic is MDF Exactly? - th-cam.com/video/k5Ka-Y1m-6I/w-d-xo.html 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Brilliant thanks
I have been avoiding MDF forever thus far.
But now I will use it thank you 😊
Hi peter, not sure if you’ll pick this up but I was wondering what size the cutter is? I know you said it’s an 8mm shank but there’s three size options. Doing a big wardrobe and they would like finger pulls. I Thanks in advance. Rich
Hi Richard. Pretty sure it was the 12.7mm, though I’d have to check to be sure; won’t be back in the workshop until later tomorrow 👍👍
Peter Millard thanks Peter. I sort of guessed it was the 12.7 as I assumed you were using 18mm stock and the remaining meat left looked 5-6mm ish. Thanks for the reply 👍🏼
No problem. I was using 22mm btw, and even then it was a little bit tight; I wouldn’t use this one on 18mm. 👍
Hi Peter, nice job. Which cutter did you use? the one with a radius of 11 mm or the one with a radius of 12.7 mm?
wealden codes T1586B-8 or T1588B-8
Thank you very much
It's the 12.7mm in 22mm MRMDF stock. I'd use the 11mm for 18mm stock. Cheers, P
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks a lot
Hi Peter, good video per usual, there really should be an Oscars for you tubers - I would nominate you !!. The mdf you used is it 18mm and what radius is that ovolo router bit (6,9.5,11 or 12.7)?
Hi Christopher, and thanks! These were 22mm MRMDF, and the cutter was an 11mm radius, though unfortunately they've been showing as out of stock for a while; if you're looking to purchase it might be worth shooting Wealden tool a message to see if/when they're likely to be in stock again.👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop ahh okay. I was looking to buy one of these, so if you use 22mm stock then with the 11mm radius leaves you with 5mm of material below the cut line . I am going to be using 18mm which would mean the only viable option would be a 6mm radius to leave enough stock under the cut line , the 9.5 mm would make it too thin I reckon . Only thing is ,is 6mm enough for someone to get a grip of the handle to pull out? mmm
There are other fingerpull cutters you can use, but with only 18mm material you’ll always run up against the balancing act between ‘thick enough’ on the remaining material, and ‘big enough’ to get your fingers into. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop yes realized that now, but saying that for box drawers where you would attach a front piece (18mm in this case) I can go right through so that would solve the issue, and for wardrobe doors I could attach a 6mm piece behind that is shaped to a pleasing way (example half oval shaped and rounded at the edges. (using birch ply for the job). something i will try but I think the size you picked is the most practical one for sure. that brand you put a link to are good , I purchased a bowl making router bit its excellent ! runs smoothly and the bearing is smooth and accurate to the cutter with no wobble.
@@ChristopherClaudioSkierka Yes, indeed. And yes, I've been using bits from Wealden tool forever, and every one that I've bought is still perfectly usable 👌
Hi Peter just read below why you risked life and limb not using the router table, I would have delivered the job late!!
I love to have this bit. Here in Brazil I cannot find it. When I go to the website I cannot finish my deal because they do not deliver this product to Brazil. Is it possible I can deposit the money for you with all the mail expenses and your gas and time so you can deliver this bit to me here in Brazil? Thanks Peter.
Which size cutter from Wealden tools is it you w used?.There are 4 sizes to choose from
You need to use the appropriate size for your material. I used the 11mm radius for 22mm thick MRMDF, and it was a bit tight - would have been happier in 25mm, but you still need to get your fingers in there. 🤷♂️ 👍
Peter Millard thanks. I’d be using 22 so needed to gauge what cutter would be best . Hard to tell which is best from the specs given online 👍
Did you consider using the CNC or would the set up be too long?
Old video, way before the CNC came along! But the CNC wouldn’t have been a contender really for a few reasons; of the nine finger pulls I had to make I think only two of them were the same size, so there’s lots of fannying about right there. All the doors were considerable bigger than the bed of the CNC, so ditto. And the finger pull cutter is only available in 8mm shank and the CNC collet is 1/4”. 🤷♂️👍👍
Where I can buy the router bit?
Links are in the video decription 👍Ovolo scribe - bit.ly/2HDcb4A
What grade mdf did you use?
Medite MR MDF 👍👍
Hi Pete, can I ask where you buy your mdf from. I am guessing it is in the London area. Thanks, David.
I use a local yard, ajferguson.co.uk - they’ll deliver throughout London. Great yard, good people. 👍
Thanks Peter, I will check them out. And thanks again for the great vid's
Your job really powerful, I am wandering where do I get the router bit that you are using, and what name to call for that router bit?
Thanks. There are links to everything in the video description, and this bit is called an Ovtolo scribe - bit.ly/2HDcb4A
Good to know, but too bad I can't buy it because is not able to deliver to Malaysia
@@cktim694 But as you now know what it's called, I'm sure you can find one that will 🤷♂️
Put a bigger base on the router
I love working with MDF but it is just dreadful when it comes to routing. With all possible dust collection measures my shop still looks the surface of Arrakis by the time I am halfway thru.
This bit was particularly bad for it, but yes. 🤷♂️👍
Hi was just wondering why you used that ovolo cutter and not one of the specific Wealdon finger pull bits?
Just wondering if the specific ones produce a stronger shape and not such a long thin shape which might fail in mdf especially if it's a heavier drawer?
This was as specified by the designer & client - literally, the 'house style' as these pieces had to match what already existed.👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop great thanks. Saw someone else copy your method and I tracked down the bit only to see the others.
@@charlievan4877 The regular Wealden finger-pulls are nice, but these have a slightly 'sharper' look to them, makes them a little bit more contemporary. So they say, anyway 😉👍
Where did you get the finger pull router cutter from
Link in the video description to the Wealden tool site, and this cutter specifically 👍
Thanks Peter
Peter Millard Anyone know where in the states this same style of router bit can be found? Plenty of drawer pull bits, but none with top bearing etc.... Thanks @farming_sawyer
Think I would have nervous breakdown if I produced that much dust in my shop....
Never had a cutter throw out that much dust before. Horrible! 😷
With that much hassle, I wonder if it was worth it.
It’s work - of course it’s worth it. Would I farm it out to a CNC next time? You bet! 😂
Hi Peter
Are you actually Jeremy vine and not telling us🤔🤔
😂 Definitely not!
I guess a router table would make life easier?
For consistency of depth, certainly. But how would you make the cut? As I've said before, the long cut is easy in a table, it's the shorter cut that's problematic, given the size of the workpiece. Yes, you could fix the template to the underside of the workpiece, but you'd need to do that pretty solidly, but without marking the face of the work. With a cutter that size I wouldn't trust double-sided tape to keep the template in place. So, how would you do it?
Instead of a template couldn't you use stop points on a fence? I really am just thinking out loud, I would have to try it and maybe I haven't thought this through properly but I am curious to try.
As I said further down the comments, some of these pieces are 900mm wide; I wouldn't want to try and feed that in perpendicular to a fence! Feel free to try - do let me know how you get on... 😉
with a dedicated router sled that you can clamp the work piece onto with a cam or lever clamp in fact depending on how long you make the sled you can have several sizes and lengths of "slots" in the jig for different sized pulls.
Were those dovetails I saw in the drawers? What happened to the Dominos?? ;)
😂👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop It was too far away to tell but I just hope they were not hand cut! Those chisels should stay in the rack where they belong ;)
@@johnduffy7502 Just Kidding John - they were Domino drawers 👍🤷♂️
Hi Peter, have you thought about making and enlarge base plate for your router? Means you could keep the router much more stable while trying to make your cuts and should remove the variation in cut depth on the router head. I know the samurai carpenter has a video about making one of these and diresta has a video on router tips and tricks where he creates something similar.
Samurai link th-cam.com/video/DV9Cb_-Axos/w-d-xo.html
Diresta link th-cam.com/video/e4cLBgKWD-k/w-d-xo.html
About 9 minutes 40 seconds in.
Thanks William - it’s been mentioned...😉 I’d done a test and it worked fine, but when it came to the nine doors the cut-outs were wider, and I only had an hour or so to do them... 👍
Well those must be "artsy" handles huh Peter ,cough cough cough sorry its the dust your makin ...: )
Yep, way too cool for the likes of you and me Syd 😂😂👍👍 And yes, I’ve never had a cutter throw out so much dust!
Well Peter they might get an R rating here thought i was watchen " Fifty Wooden Shavings Of MR MDF"...lol
Wouldn’t a router table solve this problem.
I have a router table, but I’m afraid you’re misunderstanding the problem; the doors are around 900mm wide x 350 high, so how do I move a 900mm wide workpiece approx. ~50mm into a big cutter **perfectly perpendicular**?? Much simpler to move the router. 👍
The use of MDF as a drawer pull does not offer a great deal of strength, particularly on such a large drawer. If the drawer jams or is overloaded there is a strong possibility that the MDF will break.
Consider gluing (epoxy) a 3mm (stainless?) steel rod behind the drawer pull front. I realise there is not a lot of room for such a steel rod, as the cutter does not cut very deep, however the rod will provide a good "feel" and a better grip to the drawer pull as well as the additional strength.
The idea of square corners is not the best approach as it creates a shear point that may induce hairline cracks in the MDF. Don't forget that users will not always pull the drawer "neatly" from the centre! Unless the owner/buyer really, really, really, really, really wants square corners, then I would talk the owner out of that design flair.
While the routed finger pull idea is nice, a better and MUCH stronger approach is to use a drawer pull fastened to the top edge (full width) of the drawer. The type I mean is the extruded aluminium "finger pull". It is very similar in profile to your routed result, but in aluminium it is stronger, quicker to install and looks stylish. End on the profile looks like a "J".
Reagrds
Peter
p.s. you are still looking at the viewfinder, not the audience :-)
No, there is very little possibility that the MDF will break. I only use MR MDF which has a much denser core, and the client has a house full of door and drawer pulls in this style, and hasn’t had any problems in many years of use. 👍