Do you need an industrial sewing machine, Part 3 (I bought one!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- I show you my new-to-me Singer 20-33 Industrial sewing machine. Plus a home machine vs industrial machine drag race!
At 4:30, I say that the tension knob is missing a part. This is incorrect. The knob as it appears in the video is correct.
I have this machine, and when my mother bought it new, there's was no front tension screw on it. The tension setup looks just like what is seen on your machine. The machine has been sitting in storage for decades and upon plugging it in, it runs great, I've just been fighting with the tension. I came across your video while hunting for some tension adjustment hints. Great machines!
Before I started this video I told myself I would take a drink every time he said "machine"... I'm dead now.
I should release an unedited video sometime and challenge folks to take a drink every time I say "um." I'd have zero subscribers left 😂
@@thejasonofalltrades 🤣🤣
@@thejasonofalltradesI used to make videos here and there. TH-cam videos have to flow with very few gaps... The editing required is a nightmare... Cutting out 1 second of dead air time between every sentence is not worth it to me lol I stopped because of the editing work lol love your videos, man :) 🤘🤘
Just bought my first entry level Singer and was looking for a site that had ideas beyond dresses when I stumbled across your site. You have the gift of effective communication and I am a new subscriber.
Thanks Patrick! I have over 100 sewing videos on my channel now, and some of them are even pretty good ;) I have a few beginner sewing tips videos in the works, too, so stay tuned, and let me know if you have questions. Thanks for watching!
I just got this machine and I love that it has a top bobbin!! My favorite part of it I might add 😌
I laughed sew hard! Lol I love the sign behind you!
+Gary S I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hey Jason you will like your Singer I think you would like it better if you had a servo on it ?
My wife and I have 8 sewing machines and make Quilts, she has her sewing room and I have
a sewing hallway lol. I use a Bernina and Kenmore for zigzag if needed which is very seldom but my
main machine is a Juki 550 and does strait stitch only, during Hurricane Irma we had 4 ft of water in our
house we lost pretty much everything including my Juki motor so I ordered one after we rebuilt our house and what a difference
in sewing.
Sew if you get a chance put a Servo on mine was $120 and easy to install. Sewing probably saved my life I am 66 and sit most of the
time in a wheelchair, I have been sewing now for 4 years and my wife sewing for over 40 and she still hand quilts all of her quilts.
Hi Greg,
I no longer own this machine, but I recently picked up a Consew 206, and a servo motor is definitely in its future! Since making this video 3 or 4 years ago, I am now a professional seamster, and I've used a dozen or more machines with and without servos, and yes, the difference is night and day. There is still a part of me that likes the clutch motor, because it's more challenging to control (I often like doing things the hard way for some reason), but for productivity and overall control the servo is definitely the way to go.
And sorry to hear you had some flooding from Irma! We lost a few screen panels but were otherwise unscathed, I feel like we dodged a bullet!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Bought one a couple of days ago. Juki single needle lockstitch. Used, with a bit of chipped paint and and minor surface rust (two small spots). Works perfectly. Now I can start making jeans! Gonna repaint the thing black when I get the time.
Thanks. This video helped me purchase a couple used Industrial machines.
Thank you for sharing this wonderful video. I have one for many years and I can confirm what you said. It is very strong . Ma God continue to bless you and your channel. Please share some more.
I have been sewing for over 40 years and started with a basic Singer home sewing machine in 1979 which was a great machine, I bought this exact machine in 1984 used and it's fantastic. I also had a Phaff (330 I think) that was given to me, it was from the late 50's early 60's. It was probably the best home sewing machine I ever used. I No longer have the Phaff or the Singer home sewing machines, I gave them to some family members, however I will not part with this beauty, and for you to find one at that price is a excellent find.
I did buy a Consew knock off (model CN2053R-1A) of this machine and it's okay but not as good. I am looking to buy a Sailrite LSZ 1, and then sell the Consew. I have also been looking at the Reliable 2610ZW, but I can't seem to find any reviews or video's on it. Hopefully you will enjoy this machine as much as I have enjoyed mine.
I had one love it. I 👀 you take good care of your machine Thanks
Good afternoon, I started working recently, as a profitable hobby, in the bagging of bicycles and motorbikes, and also in tool cases. The fabrics I use are Nylon, Courvin, Brim and now I have known a new one that is called Acqua Block and is waterproof. I use a sewing machine Vigorelli VZZ4 1976, built here in Brazil. I have a folder on the Pinterest site where I show some of my works. In the beginning, I built two bags with a mini Chinese sewing machine, straight stitch, but soon appeared to me this Vigorelli that I use until then. Your videos are cool and informative, keep adding more, we thank you very much. Thanks for listening.
Hello!
Your bags look very good, great job!
Thank you for watching my videos. I really appreciate it!
Thanks!
I love juki for life. .very useful people of the Philippines love this sewing machine
I haven't owned a Juki (yet), but we have a couple at work, and I love them. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Wow, great buy.....I am jealous, and I think I will be looking for one in the next year or two. CC
Hey man,
Awesome videos. Your basically going through the same thing I am-- using the same materials for almost the same purposes. Good job on the backpack straps I watched earlier. I make tactical/sporting goods gear and I'm thinking about investing in a Juki DDL 8700 so I can run all day on thicker materials. I just found where I can buy Kryptek Camos in the states and I'm pumped. Loved the vids man. The kydex work is cool too. Love that stuff.
Would you please share your source for kryptek? I haven't been able to locate one.
Thanks!
I have this machine! I love it.
Recomendaciones, compren una máquina recta industrial de preferencia, la 20u la necesita para cosas elásticas y diferentes trabajos, es multiuso, pero cada máquina por separado es mejor, recta, remalle o recubridora, presilladora, estás separadas son mejor
Jason, thanks for your inspiring channel, just bought my first machine, a Juki DDL-8700H. I've always wanted a walking foot, but was holding out for a cylinder or post bed, guess it'll half to wait, a heavy duty serger is next.
Thanks Dan! I'm keeping my eyes out for a cylinder arm myself.
What are you making?
@@thejasonofalltrades Right now, lots of masks. I like to make outdoor gear , bags, totes, tool rolls, leather sheaths, pen cases, etc. Last week I made a canvas umbrella quiver with an adjustable strap for a full length umbrella. I want to do men's t-shirts (they don't make those anymore) and pants similar to BDUs. The post bed seems like a great choice for knife sheaths and resoling boots. Keep at it, I'm watching...
I never use clutch motors anymore due to the necessity to change the speed for my faster or slower seamsters. Pretty much standard in our factory now. Certain generic servos are made with such crappy parts that things like the on off switch will break or the speed controls are only accessible under your table
i have a brother opus 141 that handles most of what i tell it to, now when its to much for that old faithful i either break out the singer treadles, 3 of them and set for different stuff, one will do 4 ounce veggie tan leather like its a t-shirt. or one of 2 industrials i have. an ol 95-10 or the ol 111w153 walking foot, other then my brother my sewing machines are 1920's or older. monster punching power,,,,, and for leather or so in tight spots, as soon as parts come in ill have my singer 29-4 running i hope. just got a nice singer 478 all tuned up n cleaned, pfft it struggled with a zipper in some jeans, so that one is going to be for sale. i like the singer in your vid and looking to get something like it to replace my brother as its main stay, but so far no luch as i want the zig zag and reverse to back tack with
Nice, thanks for video. Been looking for one of these locally for awhile but no luck yet. They are about $1100 cdn for the current SINGER 20U83 model plus another $300 to ship so might go the new route if I cant find a clean used one for good money.
I've watched this one a few times now, I think I know exactly what kind of machine that I should get!
+MindfulProgramming Thanks for watching! Don't keep us in suspense, what are you getting?!?
+thejasonofalltrades I have a bag design that I am ready to produce. The features I need in a machine are: a strong motor, a walking foot, zig-zig stitching, straight stitching, and a reverse lever. On Craigslist, I have not found a single machine that contains these features, but the brand Reliable produces a few.
I'm most likely to acquire this. www.reliablecorporation.com/Products/ZIG-ZAG/Barracuda-200ZW-Portable-Walking-Foot-Zig-Zag-Sewing-Machine-2000U-33
But this is my dream machine, goodness: www.sewinggold.com/R-MSK-146B.html
Are you sure you need a walking foot? One thing you might consider, you could buy a walking foot machine AND a zig-zag non-walking foot industrial for quite a bit less than that machine (if you have space). Feel free to email me if I can help,
thejasonofalltrades@gmail.com.
I had this machine years ago. learned how to do embroidery on it its a super machine to have , in fact, i am looking for one which you can change the breadth of the stitch with the knee pad in toronto
Most of these you can adjust zigzag by he knee look underneath, you have a choice to use knee left or move to zigag
what a steal! I'm looking at the Sailrite Heavy-Duty Ultrafeed® LS-1 BASIC Walking Foot Sewing Machine on Amazon for $649, new, just afraid of used. Afraid of being taken if you know what I mean. And not being able to try it out. At least brand new I know it will work. But sure would like to find a bargain like you did! Thanks for the videos, they have been helpful. I sew a lot of purses and tote bags with thin foam lining, or head liner, and need something a little tougher than my Janome. Thanks again.
Thanks, Kathy! I understand the desire for new, especially if you're counting on the machine for making money. I have six machines at the moment, and the only ones that didn't work perfectly when I bought them were ones that I knew didn't work when I bought them. But, I also bought them locally and CHEAP. If you find a used machine that you're interested in, it helps a lot if it's local and you can try it out. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Kathy, I don't know if you've had a chance to see it, but I now have a Sailrite LS-1 that I'm using in my videos. I posted an unboxing video, and I'll be doing full review soon. So, if you haven't bought one and want more information, check it out!
thejasonofalltrades I definitely will check it out! I'll be in the market for one next year. thank you!
$300 with a table sounds like a bargain. I was pricing sewing tables if a wood table, they were over $300 alone.
Awesome videos as always, man!!!
+TheRangeControl Thanks!
Cool machine, I've looked at a few like that, I plan on holding out to get a needle feed like a consew 226. Look forward to seeing what you make with it.
+Danthefordfixer Thanks Dan! I think a needle feed is coming for me eventually, just haven't found the right one at the right price.
+thejasonofalltrades I'm looking for this machine, mine has locked up, motor runs, but pressure foot won't budge, have completely oiled it, and let it sit, still nothing, mine looks like this 20u, , where can I find one that doesn't cost a arm and a leg
connie showers Sorry to hear you're having problems with your machine! I see these pop up on Craigslist from time to time, but unfortunately there's no predicting the market on used machines. Good luck, I hope you can find another one (or find someone to repair yours!).
thejasonofalltrades
I am trying to identify a REX industrial machine that my brother recently purchased. There is no model number on the machine that we can find. He would like to know what feet he needs and how to operate it properly. Can I send you a photo of it to see if you or one of your readers may be able to help identify it?
thejasonofalltrades
I just got this machine it was to fast for my dad now I need to learn how to use it
I like your hobby and the presentation on different sewing machine. I am also playing with sewing machine because of my hobby. I got couple of questions regarding machine ,if you permit I will like to ask. Thanks
Hi, and thanks!
You can ask questions in a comment, or if you prefer, you can email me at the jason of all trades @ gmail . com (remove the spaces).
Thanks for watching!
Damn. That Singer is fast!
It is! I thought that the speed was going to be a benefit, but I actually found it not to be for me. I made this video and bought this machine at a time when I still had a lot to learn (not that I don't now lol) about sewing machines. I didn't yet understand that a walking-foot machine was what I was looking for. This machine didn't really do any better than my domestic machines when it comes to feeding thick assemblies or climbing over thick seams, and it could fail much faster, sometimes causing messy piles of stitches in one spot before I got it under control. A servo motor would have been a big help to provide better control, but for my uses I found that a walking-foot machine was the best choice, so I sold this machine. I never really used it for free-motion embroidery, but they're supposed to be excellent for that.
Thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades glad i found this video, err, i mean, that you made this video. i'm considering getting an "industrial" machine at some point and i've been doing research on them.
i found a Singer 20U33 (blue) in amazing condition with table and lamp attachment for $700. seems like a fair price given it's condition, but the more i research, i more i think i might look for a walking foot model.
thanks again for sharing your time, energy, skill, and experience.
@@jerrykovis5417 Hi Jerry! You might want to check out a video I made more recently - check it out here th-cam.com/video/fFq5QXgF4v8/w-d-xo.html
I delve a bit deeper into my thoughts on why if you're going industrial you probably want to look at walking-foot machines (at least for the kinds of sewing I tend to do). Good luck, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Hey Jason, awesome video, very informative. not at the point of purchasing anything just yet, but it's great getting all this information before i do.
slight off topic question. don't know if you're still working at an awning shop, but curious how working as an operator has / had affected your desire to sew on your off time. thanks.
@@jerrykovis5417 so, quick answer first; I was surprised how little my enthusiasm for sewing on my days off was dampened by sewing as a full-time job, if anything I might have been more enthusiastic because I was learning lots of new things.
Now for the long story.
I worked for a total of three years in three different shops, and three different industries (marine canvas, leather bags and awnings). The jobs were honestly not particularly great, but I did have lots of learning opportunities (even if most of them were of the figure-it-out-yourself variety).
A couple of years ago I took over the management of a commercial rental property, and that job came with a space that I now use as my office/workshop. Much of the job is to just be onsite in case someone needs something, so I have quite a bit of downtime, and get to sew on projects while I'm "working." This has honestly had a greater negative impact on my enthusiasm for sewing at home than anything. I sew more than ever these days, but rarely at home. Some viewers have expressed that they prefer the home sewing machine/environment/cats in my videos, and I try to split them between home and work, but I have a huge space with most of my machines and fabrics at work, and no real need to spend "home time" making sewing projects or videos, so I tend not to. It's a GREAT position to be in, but it is a double-edged sword.
All that said, sewing for a living for a few years boosted my enthusiasm overall, and I still regularly employ tips I learned from those jobs that I probably would never have learned otherwise (and hopefully I've spread those tips around some!).
Thanks for explaining because i want to buy like this one for embroidery using hoop
I no longer own this machine, but it would be an excellent choice for embroidery. Thanks for watching!
Wondering if you can replace the singer model 20-33 professional WMC transmitter with a servo motor? I just purchased this machine for $240 with table and someone replaced the switch and it wouldn’t turn on after I bought it, decided to replace the motor instead of figuring out how to correct the switch being done wrong. Plus, wanted to slow down the motor that came on it. I have many years experience sewing but only owned Singer and Necchi
Hi!
It should be no issue at all to replace the motor with a servo. As with most industrial machines, the machine head itself is a separate component from the motor; the motor bolts underneath the table and drives the machine via a belt.
Some years ago I did a couple of videos on replacing a clutch motor with a servo, you might want to have a look at those! I don't own my 20-33 anymore, but if I did it would certainly be driven by a servo motor now!
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Do you have a link to the manual for this machine. I haven't be able to find much except you? Where do you buy your needles? Thank you for the videos. I have the Thompson mini walking foot PW-500 with four different feet
Hi!
The manual for this machine should be available from Singer.com, click on "help/manuals" in the upper right.
I tend to order needles from Sailrite, mostly when I am ordering other stuff. Most online sewing suppliers will have industrial needles.
@@thejasonofalltrades thank you
Hi would love to have a industrial sewing machine ,bt cant afford it
$300 for a Singer 20U-33?? You actually stole it. Especially in that condition. It has one of the widest zig zag stitches available on these types of machines and they are reliable as a rock. Oh, lol, it’s not missing anything from the tensioner. That is exactly how they came. Slow speed control of a servo is definitely far superior to a clutch. But there are different types of servo motors. The brushless type is the one you want to use with thicker materials as well as installing a smaller diameter pulley. I replaced the clutch for the Consew CSM 1000 on my 20U-33 and installed a 45MM pulley and the control of the low speed is exceptional. Plus the CSM is a brushless so it still has all the power down at low speed as well. With the clutch you will notice some pretty good speed jump when trying to work slow on thicker material stacks. Excellent machine. With this 20U machine, a solid compound feed walking foot (which will also have needle feed which the little Thompson will not) like the Consew 206-RB-5, and a good cylinder bed machine and you can sew just about anything. Then aspire to add a post bed and you’ll have every stitch angle covered!! I have all of those listed and I can tell you, there is pretty much nothing I can’t sew except maybe the bottom of a golf bag, lol. 👍🏻😎👍🏻
Hi Scott,
You make some great points! Allow me to catch you up.
I now have a Consew 206RB-1, which has been my main machine for the last couple of years. I put a servo motor on that one. It's supplemented by a Consew 225, still powered by a clutch motor. I sold the Singer from this video (mostly because I was moving back to Florida), but I'm considering possibly getting another one if I find a good enough deal. I used cylinder and post-bed machines for a bit over a year when I worked for a leather bag manufacturer, and ever since I've been looking for a cylinder arm machine at a cost I can justify.
So I guess I followed most of your suggestions in advance lol!
I have a ton of more recent stuff on my channel if you're interested. Thanks for watching and commenting!
thejasonofalltrades , I love seeing the progression folks go through when they get hooked on sewing once they realize how damn handy and enjoyable that skill actually is. I remember watching your videos on the vintage Pfaff domestic machines (260, 360) back when I was doing a LOT with the vintage community. Was actually featured in a documentary on the history of the sewing machine and the Pfaff 130, 230, and the 332 are my absolute favorites. But in the industrial side, there are just so many different excellent options available with the vintage models, as long as you are willing to do a bit of restoration work, there are a lot of really great deals to be found!! But literally the best collaboration in old and new are these brushless servo motors like the Consew CSM 1000 (and the 1001 with the needle positioner that most folks don’t realize that it has a heel down option to lift the needle automatically when in the needle down at stop setting). The brushless motors have terrific slow speed control with all the power of the upper end. And when you install a nice small 45 or 50mm pulley it makes a huge difference in the sewing experience. I do this swap on all my machines and the surprising benefit came from the 20U. WONDERFUL difference. I found one in similar “as new” condition that you had there for $200!! It was SUCH a score. I will NEVER get rid of that machine. If it wasn’t for the need of the walking foot cylinder, I could easily live with the 206RB-5, 20U, and my fabulous Pfaff 332 as my cylinder machine. The 332 is SO dang solid and powerful for a domestic machine and it actually handles TEX90 thread perfectly. I will definitely check out a few more of you recent vids!! Glad you like the comments and took my future advice in your past progression, LOL!! 👍🏻😎👍🏻
Part 4 plz
I'm use direct drive sew sharp singer machine. Do u guide me...
Thanks
&
Regards
I own a singer 491 just noticed that the reverse work for 5-6spi however they stay in one spot after i go to like 10 and finer? Just wanted to know if there is a adjustment or something im missing 🤷♂️
Hi!
I'm not familiar with that model and I'm not a sewing machine mechanic, but in my experience, it is often the case that the stitch length regulation is not perfect between forward and reverse on many sewing machines. So, sitting the stitch length to a very short forward stitch length might make the reverse stitch so short that it doesn't move at all. If there is a way to adjust that, it's above my knowledge level. I rarely use very short stitch lengths, so it isn't something I've dealt with much, but you may have to just find the shortest stitch length that will still allow reverse to function, or adjust the reverse stitch length whenever you reverse.
Sorry I don't have better information, I hope that helps!
I have a 20u33 singer and it has locked up, the wheel won't turn, any advise on how to get it unlocked?? The motor works and the belt spins allowing tension but the belt will slip if I continue to apply the pedal. I tried to turn the handle and it won't allow it to move. I have kept it oiled and it drips from the machine.
Hi!
If it's locked up that tight, my concern is it may have gotten out of time and is locked by mechanical parts interfering with one another. If that's the case, the timing will need to be reset. This isn't that difficult to do, but it's not something I can easily explain.
Most "sew vac" type stores, and many fabric stores, will have a sewing machine repair person either on site or a contractor who will visit the site to pick up machines. I would suggest finding someone in your area who can take a look at it. Last time I paid to have a machine gone through it cost me about $150, for what it's worth.
I hope you find a solution, good luck!
I'm work here in oman for 8 years.
I'm using this machine professionally.
I want to buy this old model new machine. Where do i get it?
Singer produces this machine still, but I'm afraid I don't know where to buy in your country. Good luck!
That machine and table looks sweet. Does the table come with it? Where can I buy a table?
The table did come with the machine, although I rather suspect that another machine was in this table first. I've seen industrial tables pop up on craigslist from time to time. The table makes a huge difference for me compared to a home machine's folding table, or having a home machine in a case. Industrial tables are available new (Google it, there's aside variety), but if you plan to use one with a home machine, you may have to make a top yourself (or modify one to fit).
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for sharing
Can the feed dogs be lowered? (PS: GREAT deal you got! $300 for everything. Wow. I see one for sale locally here and they want $625.)
Hi,
I sold this machine a little over a year ago, and for the life of me I can't remember if there was a way to lower the feed dogs. I think there was, but I really can't remember for sure, sorry!
Yeah, I think $625 is high. I think some sellers look up other "industrial sewing machines" and think one of these is worth the same as a walking-foot industrial, which it isn't!
Thanks for watching!
I'm looking for a 20 U 33.
Yes sir why my industrial singer is little bit slow now. I oil it still a bit slow. Please tell me what to do?
Hi!
I'm not sure, but there are a few things to check.
If it is an industrial machine powered by a clutch motor, try disconnecting belt from the machine and spinning the machine by hand. If it moves freely, also try spinning the motor by hand to see if it spins freely. Try running the motor without the belt to see if it seems like it is reaching full speed (clutch motors are spinning at top speed at all times when they are turned on). If the motor sounds normal, but the pulley doesn't spin at full speed, it's possible there could be a problem with the clutch itself. The clutch is made from cork and could be worn out, they are cheap and fairly easy to replace.
It's also possible the motor is covered with oil/dust/dirt and is not generating the correct power. It's possible that a thorough cleaning might help, but you might want to consult someone more knowledgeable about electric motors before trying that.
I hope that helps, good luck!
Did you end up liking this sewing machine? I found one for a good deal and am thinking about buying it. I'm a little worried that it might be too fast. Can you control the speed reasonably? To start, I plan to do repairs on outdoor gear and make river bags out of vinyl coated mesh. Do you think this might be a good machine for me?
I did like this machine, however, I recently sold it. I now have a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 that works better for the kind of materials I generally use. The 20-33 is very fast (compared to a domestic machine) but I rarely had an issue with that - you just need to pay attention when you get close to a place you want to stop, and use the hand wheel if you're not sure you can keep the speed under control. It's probably not ideal as a FIRST sewing machine, but it's not bad. (And you could swap in a servo motor for very good control.)
The main reason I switched to the Sailrite is the walking foot, which provides superior feeding of the thick and sometimes slippery fabrics I tend to use. I used the 20-33 for several projects, and it worked fine most of the time, but on thicker seams it sometimes had problems feeding.
Whether this machine would work for you depends on what kinds of "outdoor gear" you plan to work with. Tents, stuff sacks, clothing? Definitely. Heavy weight backpacks, climbing rigging, rifle slings? Maybe not.
I would urge you to bring some fabrics of the kind you will be working with to try in the machine you're looking at (and make some seams, don't just sew a single layer of fabric).
The 20-U/20-33 is a good, reasonably heavy-duty machine, but it's on the lighter end of the spectrum for industrials, and is primarily intended for sewing apparel fabrics. It still might work great for you, especially if it's a good deal, but if you're going to be sewing a lot of webbing and heavy materials, it might not be the best choice.
I hope that helps, thanks for your question and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the help!
I need singer 188 machine .please answer
I have this same machine hope you can help me, the knob at the end I can't turn it when I need to, I need to use it at times to loosen my thread to pull out or to raise my needle by hand. Anything you can tell me how to fix would be appreciated. It takes two hands to move it AGH
Hi Joyce,
I'm not sure, are you referring to the clutch-release knob on the end of the hand wheel? Or do you mean the hand wheel itself?
If you are referring to the hand wheel, when you are turning it by hand on an industrial machine, you are trying to turn it against the friction of the belt connected to the motor. If you LIGHTLY depress the pedal (even turned off) it will release the clutch a little and allow you to freely hand wheel the machine.
If that's not your problem, let me know!
My wife has an heirloom 1949 singer, passed down from her mother. Basically both of them learned sewing on this particular model. Now my wife is getting into a regular sewing business of denim and canvas, mainly. After researching a lot she's ended up with a used really old juki ddl 5550.
The problem seems to be the attachments. Where can she put piping foot etc. It doesn't seem to have anywhere, like it seems on the juki ddl 8700. It shows a little disc just beside the feed dog plate.
Your videos are a great help for her. Could you explain whether she should buy the ddl 5550? Cuz ddl 8700 isn't really available and it has mostly same specs. Thanks
Hi,
I've used a few Juki machines, and I've liked them all. However, I don't have any experience with either model you've mentioned. I'd be surprised if the 5550 can't handle typical attachments (a piping foot should just replace the normal foot, for example). But if your wife has a need for specific attachments, it definitely makes sense to be certain that the machine she buys will be compatible.
I wish I could provide more information, but I think Google is your friend for this. Juki machines have a good following, and you should be able to find the information you need out there somewhere!
Good luck, and thanks for watching!
I sew 1/4" braided rope rugs with a zig zag stitch. My Brother sewing machine has trouble with this and finally broke. Its gears are all plastic, and it seems I am buying a new machine every 14 months. I would like to buy a new or preferably good used industrial sewing machine that does straight stitch and zig zag. Can your machine handle this depth for zigzag sewing? Any other industrial machine suggestions within reasons $ that I should review?
Hi,
I no longer own this machine, so I'm not sure about its ability to sew 1/4" rope. If your domestic machine was feeding it well, then I would think this one would work well. There are several industrial zig-zag machines out there. Very few of them have a walking foot, which is what I prefer for the thicker/heavier fabrics I tend to use, and I wonder if that might be a good option for you. Sailrite makes both a portable (Ultrafeed LSZ-1) walking foot machine with zig-zag, and a full-size industrial one. You might want to investigate those, as well. Thanks for watching, and good luck!
Hi there ,
I have Industrial Singer sewing machine Model 20U Professional and I want to know which size bobbin should I buy from online maybe Amazon.
Here is a link to the bobbin from Singer. I believe it is also known as an L-style bobbin, and is widely available.
I am learning to sew upholstery and am looking at a Singer 20U33. It is on a table with a servo motor and knee control already. The owner is asking $500. You said you paid about $300 for your's without the knee control.....what should I look for as far as if the machine was properly cared for and any issues it might have?
Let me preface my response with the statement that I am far from an expert on these (or any other) machines. That said, if the machine works and runs smoothly, it's probably fine. There isn't a lot that will just break on a machine like this, and if it sews well and the timing is set correctly, you should be good to go. I would inspect it visually for obvious wear (machines that have seen lots of use will show wear on the bed from fabric sliding over it over and over), but even a machine that has seen a lot of use will probably work fine. Older sewing machines that have sat for a long time tend to get some of their mechanisms stuck (zig-zag won't work, that kind of thing), but that can be pretty simple to resolve.
I had to have the timing adjusted on my machine, and the industrial sewing machine shop in Denver did it for around $40. Otherwise, I've had no issues with mine.
A servo motor is considered an upgrade, although I've not tried one yet.
I think it's hard to put a value on these machines, because they're not rare, but at the same time you can't exactly pick one up just anywhere. I think you have to decide how badly you need it and whether it's worth it.
You should consider what sort of upholstery sewing you're planning to do. If it's lighter weight material, drapery, etc., you'd be fine, but the 20U/20-33 is not really capable of handling very think thread of the sort you would use for heavy upholstery fabrics. It's more of a clothing manufacturing kind of machine. For me, it's one more machine in my arsenal, but not the last one for sure.
Thanks for your question, and let me know what you end up doing!
April,
I support Jason's opinion on your choice of an industrial sewing machine which might fit your upholstery work better. A lot of professional upholstery work involves sewing over multiple seams which can be difficult for a sewing machine without a walking foot.
I am sure that you have already made your decision on the Singer 20U33. It is a great machine and the price you quoted is very reasonable for a Singer 20U with a servo motor and knee lift. The knee lift will give you more efficiency once you prefect your knee lift technique.
Like Jason, I would like to know if you ultimately bought the Singer 20U33.
I bought a Bernina industrial 15 years ago and hardly use it. I got the speed lowered with a device my husband put on. I thought I could use thick,stronger threads,but had trouble. I had put the heavy thread in my bobbin and it would not work at all. What threads and do you use a certain one for the bobbin?
Hi!
There's quite a variety among industrial sewing machines, and some can handle much thicker thread than others. The Singer in this video (which I no longer own) was only good for up to size 92, if I recall.
The manual for your machine will probably indicate what threads it is capable of handling, and you can probably find a copy online if you don't have one.
I am employed full-time doing sewing for a manufacturer of various travel bags now, and the biggest thread we use is 138. We have several different machines - Juki 562, Singer 111, and Adler cylinder arm machines. All of them are MUCH "beefier" machines than the Singer 20U is. Sometimes we use thinner thread in the bobbin, but no one has been able to explain to me why we do that.
In my own machines, which are a variety of vintage domestic machines and a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1, I almost always use size 69 nylon thread. I occasionally use 92 in the Sailrite, but I'm pretty sure I can make just about anything with 69. (We use a lot of it at work, too.) I always use the same thread in the bobbin as I do on top (so far, anyway!).
I hope that helps! Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
What is actually the classification that makes a sewing machine domestic vs industrial? The underside and gears in this looks right close to my Singer 500A, which tells you in the manual how to make things like curtains, but will also sew leather if you grumble at it. Especially with the size of the one you're using, is it just like mechanical part beefiness + motor speed/stitches per minute?
Hi,
Sorry for taking so long to reply!
For context, this video was made quite a while a go, and I have vastly more experience now. I currently own 21 machines, of which 2 are industrial walking-foot machines.
To some extent, it's like that quote about defining pornography - you know it when you see it. I think what it comes down to is what the intended use the machine was designed for is.
An industrial machine is one made to be used in the full-time production of textile assemblies sometimes running nearly 24/7. Some industrial machines may be more or less "heavy duty" than others, depending on their intended use. The machine in this video may be used in an industrial setting in the manufacturing of garments or other items made from lighter materials, but it may also be used in a "commercial" setting, such as alterations for a dry cleaning business. Some might refer to this machine as a "commercial" machine.
In contrast, a domestic machine is intended for use by a hobbyist at home.
Older domestic machines were robustly built with all metal gears, and are often referred to by online sellers as "industrial-strength" or some other misleading descriptor. The fact that a machine has metal gears doesn't make it an industrial machine.
When I was looking for "an industrial machine," I didn't know it but I was really looking for an industrial walking-foot machine. Among industrial walking-foot machines, there is some variety as well, but the most commonly available ones are good for sewing the kinds of heavier fabrics I tend to use most (1000d Cordura, waxed canvas, etc). Many people look to these machines for sewing heavy leather, but that is yet another sub-category of machine.
To try to answer your question, I don't know that there is a specific single thing you can point at to discriminate an industrial machine from a domestic machine - it's more of a totality. A robust, vintage domestic machine set into an industrial table and powered by an industrial motor is not an industrial machine - however, it could be used as one with some success, assuming the materials being sewn are appropriate to the machine.
An industrial walking-foot machine stuck into a bedroom and used by a hobbyist isn't a domestic machine.
Very generally, though, industrial machines are usually much larger than domestic machines, and most are powered by a separate motor mounted under the table (some newer machines now have integrated motors, though). Industrial machines are not designed to be portable, and must be used in a table dedicated to them.
Sorry for the long and rambling answer, but unfortunately there's not a short simple one that I know of! I hope that helps!
Quick question .
Does your upper tension disc disengage when you release the presser foot ? I have the 20U-13 as far as I can see mine does not.
Question 2 on your bobin case have you tried the straight stitch with and without using the pig tail guide. The manual for the model 33 says it does yet on my model I can not see any improvement. Just curious.
Hi Paul,
I recently sold this machine, so I don't have it to confirm, but yes, the tension discs released when the presser foot was lifted.
I found the same result, not using the pigtail didn't seem to have any effect. I did very little zig-zag stitching, but I didn't notice any issues from not using the pigtail.
Thanks for your questions, and thanks for watching!
I need a sewing machine
Which machine is best
I recently bought a Thompson and what cabinet bases can it be mounted to? Not sure I want to mount it to a bigger table.
It should fit in any table for Singer full-size machines. You can measure the distance between the two mounting holes on the back of the machine (something like 9.5" if I remember right, but don't go on my memory) and the length and width of the bed of the machine.I have an old singer table that I've put the Thompson and the Sailrite in. It also fits my Singer 237, and it originally held my Singer 758 Touch-and-Sew.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
thejasonofalltrades thanks; so basically any singer cabinet but the small 99? I have a 328k so I cues I could swap them but I think I would rather have a separate cabinet just for it . Have a great evening.
How much
any opinion on the morse industrial lz1 commercial sewing machine on Etsy? They are saying its just like the Sailrite only $200 cheaper.
So, first let me preface: I have never seen or used a Sailrite machine, and my Thompson is the only variant of that design of machine I have used. That said, here's my opinion.
Sailrite and Thompson seem to be the originators of this particular model, as far as I can tell, and to the best of my knowledge Thompson is no longer around. (As I understand it, Thompson and Sailrite collaborated on the design, but don't quote me on it.) Every other machine of the same design is a knock-off, and is probably pretty close to identical - at least in appearance.
I'd really like to get my hands on a Sailrite, and I'm considering purchasing one at some point down the road. My Thompson has been very capable and reliable, but not exactly buttery smooth and a joy to use (compared to my Pfaff 260, it's feels harsh, the controls stiff). Watching Sailrite's videos, the LS and LS-Z machines seem a little more polished/refined than mine.
That said, the main reason I would lean towards a Sailrite over a knock-off version is that Sailrite is a company here in the U.S. that you could contact with a problem, should one arise. They've been around for a while, and I don't see any indication that they're going away anytime soon. For all I know, their machines are made in the same factory as the knock-offs, but when spending that kind of money on something brand new, you're not just buying the product, you're buying the company.
The thing that makes that design of machine stand out is that it is a portable walking-foot machine. If you don't need portable, and/or you don't need a walking foot, there may be other options to consider, especially on the used market.
I hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions, and good luck!
Sailrite customer service is awesome. Watch the videos for them, and realize that you will most likely be in direct contact with Matt (that Sailrite guy) for any questions or issues you might have. I have purchased a model 111 which suits my needs, and have been quite satisfied. I have no experience with the LZ-1 portable machines.
I should probably update my reply on this. I now have a Sailrite LS-1, and I agree with rmcdaniel423, Sailrite's customer service is excellent. The machine is very similar to the Thompson with some significant improvements, the reverse lever being the most notable to me. I have several videos featuring the machine on my channel now, and a full review is coming soon.
@@thejasonofalltrades Of course the Sailrite's videos make their sewing machines seem smooth, polished and refine. I had a brand new Sailrite LSZ-1 for some years but to me it sound like it was grinding sand in it.Yes, it was strong with the walking foot but had the feeling of cheap chinese quality. I do not think it's better then a Thompson maybe worse. Quality wise not comparison with a Pfaff, Singer, Bernina, Consew or Juki.
If you got an industrial machine with zigzag width 7 mm with foot control , I am interested in it please let me know.
Hi,
I don't sell machines, I just make TH-cam videos about the machines I have and projects I make with them. Sorry!
Random question, I watched a video of a gentleman using a homemade speed control using a dimmer switch for a like dining room light/fan and was thinking about making one my self for a Rex rx607 when it arrives. I’m not worried about the build quality of the switch because electrical is part of what I do for a living so I know I can make it “safe” lol but I don’t know anything about these motors and wounding you opinion on if the motor will be ok with the idea. I can’t seem to find any info on the motors used. And this is not the actual machine the guy used.
Hi,
I know so little about electrical work that it would be irresponsible for me to speculate about this. I think what you are referring to is something to limit the maximum speed of the machine, is that right? Many servo motors have this ability, and if that's what you're going for, I could see how that could be helpful. I'd be interested to know how it works if you end up doing it!
Sorry I can't be more help, maybe someone else with knowledge in this area will chime in.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
thejasonofalltrades no worries I don’t mind being test lol I will for sure get back to you in a week or two after I have set it up and ran it for a big. Thanks again!!!
preciso urgente de uma máquina festa
Do you know if you can upgrade the motor or if that too powerful of a motor would be too much for the machine to handle
This machine had PLENTY of power with the 1/3 hp motor (if I'm remembering right - I sold the machine 3 years ago). I've found that for my needs, a walking-foot machine is the way to go, and not so much that more power is needed.
The manual for this machine should be available on SInger's website and will probably specify how powerful of a motor it can take.
I've been recently thinking of getting another one of these, but it would be as a supplement to my walking-foot machine, mostly for the odd occasion when I'd like to have a zig-zag stitch.
I've learned a lot since I made this video, and the upshot is, if you are sewing heavy Cordura, ballistic nylon and webbing into complex structures like backpacks, messenger bags, etc., you will get far better results using a walking-foot machine over something like this machine.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
thejasonofalltrades thanks for your reply, I am looking to buy a machine that can do veg tan leather, don’t want to pay thousands though
Unfortunately, if you want to sew thick, tough leather, there aren't a lot of inexpensive options. Tandy Leather and Sailrite recently partnered to sell a more-or-less leather specific version of the Sailrite Ultrafeed. It's not cheap, but it might be in your price range.
Sewing "veg tan leather" is kind of a wide-ranging topic. If it's relatively thin, you can sew leather with any sewing machine, although a walking-foot machine will feed it much better. I used to work for a leather bag manufacturer, and we used standard walking-foot industrial machines. Most of what we sewed was quite thin, but occasionally some fittings were 7-8 oz or so. What machine you need really depends on what thickness you'll typically be sewing.
As far as power is concerned, I think any industrial machine motor will be plenty powerful, but you will probably also want it to be a LOT slower. Something like the Singer 20U is WAY too fast (it's made for sewing garment fabrics quickly). You can change pulleys to reduce the speed, but I think trying to turn a machine like this into one that is great at sewing thick leather would be more time and trouble than it is worth.
I hope that helps. You might want to check out Stock and Barrel on TH-cam, they have some good leather-sewing info you might find helpful.
Sir got u plz let me k ow wether I can do free motion embroidery in singer 191D 30c
Hi,
I don't know much about embroidery, but I think you want zig-zag capability, and it looks like the 191D is straight-stitch only. Sorry, I don't know much about that machine or embroidery, I hope that helps!
Hi , I want to know how will I prepare the machine for embrodering?
Hi,
I no longer own this machine, and I never did any embroidery with it, sorry! Good luck!
Would you recommend this machine for sewing upholstery?
I think a walking-foot machine would be a better choice for upholstery. This machine could be useful for lighter fabrics, and in cases where a zig-zag stitch is helpful (zig-zag walking-foot industrial machines are quite rare). Something like my Consew 206 is a better choice for upholstery, they're very common in upholstery shops. I have a video about walking-foot industrial machines on my channel if you'd like to know more.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Jason any chance you could tell me how much clearance the foot has / whats max thickness of material could be sewn? total newbie havnt ever sewed yet but just started learning this week about machines. and the gear belt i want to sew has a maxthickness of approx 5/16". In your opinion.....could it sew through that thickness of nylon? just wondering?? thanks for posting a great video! 5 thumbzzup! james in Idaho
Hi James,
I no longer own this machine, so I can't tell you its specifications exactly, but here are my thoughts:
Assuming the material one wants to sew will fit under the foot (and I think 5/16" is possible for most machines), there are two important factors to consider when choosing a machine to sew a particular material; power and feeding.
When sewing a woven material (webbing, most fabrics - as opposed to leather), the needle should pass between the strands of the material. With some exceptions (a thick seam, for example), pretty much any sewing machine is capable of sewing webbing. A powerful motor is not usually necessary, and can lead to broken needles or other parts if the operator hasn't developed the finesse or ability to recognize when to go slower. I use very capable machines at my job, and even with them it is necessary to rotate the machine's wheel by hand through some tough spots.
In my experience, the more important issue is the machine's ability to FEED tough or bulky (or slippery) materials evenly. If you plan to sew MOSTLY projects involving webbing, heavy nylons (Cordura) and such, you should look into walking-foot machines. I have a review on my channel of the Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 that explains the difference between walking-foot and standard machines. (By the way, one of the reasons I no longer own the Singer from this video is because after getting the Sailrite, I stopped using the Singer entirely.)
Industrial waking-foot machines, particularly ones that are new enough to have reverse (not necessary but nice to have) can be quite expensive. They are also very large and heavy. There are many varieties of industrial walking-foot machines, some of which would be well-suited to some materials, and terrible for others.
My default advice to anyone beginning sewing and interested in using heavier materials is to first try to find a pre-1970s vintage domestic (non-industrial) sewing machine. These can be had from thrift stores, garage sales, antique stores, your mom's attic, your neighbor's attic, etc. Stick to names you recognize (Singer being the obvious one), and try to identify the machine and do some Google research before purchasing to make sure replacement parts are readily available (most are). One of my favorite machines cost me $20 at a thrift store (you can see a comparison of it with the Sailrite in that review).
Buying a cheap machine gets you started learning the basics, and you can make real things. The limitations of the machine will help you understand what parts of your assembly are more challenging, and prepare you to better use a more capable machine down the road. When you decide you're ready to invest in a more capable and expensive machine, you'll have more confidence and be more well-informed in choosing a machine.
The next step, in my opinion, is a Sailrite Ultrafeed. They are occasionally available used (as is the Thompson Mini-Walker, it's predecessor). There are tons of knock-offs of the Sailrite on the market - I don't recommend them, but many people use them, and they are cheap to buy.
The other point I'd like to make is that there almost certainly is NOT one sewing machine that is perfect for everything. I sew everything from 1680 Denier ballistic nylon with heavy webbing straps, to 1.1 oz. silnylon. I currently have 12 sewing machines, and there are definitely machines I use for certain things that I'd never use for other tasks. If I had to get down to a minimum, I'd have two machines for sure.
Sorry for the long response! I hope that helps. Let me know if you have other questions. You might want to check out an old video on my channel, "sewing machine basics." It's a bit dated now but has some good information for someone just getting started.
Thanks for your question, thanks for watching and good luck!
que o valor por favor
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How much was your machine
What needles does this singer use? Thanks 👍🏻
Hi,
I don't have this machine any more, sorry! Google is your friend here , I'm afraid.
Thanks for watching!
What is the price? I love singer
In the US, these sell on the used market for around $200-500. Thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades I hope Iget one in oneday😔
What do you recommend to sew 1000D Cordura nylon, elastic, and velcro?
Hi Allen,
If you're looking to try sewing those materials but don't want to spend a lot of money, most any vintage domestic sewing machine will do it. I recently made a video on the construction of my 1000D Cordura yoga mat bag using my Pfaff 260, for example.
If you're going to be doing a lot of sewing of those materials, and don't need to regularly sew thinner materials, too, then the Sailrite Ultrafeed machines are hard to beat, in my opinion.
You might want to check out my Sailrite review, and the video "Why Do I Have So Many Sewing Machines?" on my channel for more information.
This all assumes you are looking at domestic machines, not industrials, which is a whole other topic.
I hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades have you tried sewing those materials before on the sailrite machines or their knockoffs?
@@thejasonofalltrades would even a singer 4423 home machine sew those materials?
@@thejasonofalltrades also would you ever consider selling the Thompson or know of a good place to look for one? I've seen Rex version on Amazon for $285 but I'm not sure about it.
I've been using the Sailrite Ultrafeed LS1 as my primary machine for about two years. I've sewn gobs of 1000D Cordura, 1680D ballistic nylon, 10.10oz waxed canvas, 400D pack cloth and probably a few other things. I occasionally use other machines just for kicks, but when I need to get a project done in any of these materials, it's the machine I go to.
Do you have any 20u machine for sale?
I sold this machine last year, sorry. Thanks for watching!
No walking foot?
This machine is a non-walking-foot machine, which is the main reason I ended up selling it. I now use a Consew 206RB.
Hi can I convert my singer 4431 into industrial machine, which means I want to modify fixing clutch motor to this machine , is it advisable to do so pls give me your feed back thank you sir.
Hi,
I don't think it would be possible to do it, but it would almost certainly break very soon if you did. There is a LOT more to an industrial machine than a more powerful motor.
I've seen vintage (1930s-1960s) machines connected to industrial clutch motors, and those will probably take it for longer, but I personally don't think it's a great idea. There are too many industrial machines out there; you're better off just buying one (and frankly, you probably want a walking-foot anyway if you're trying to sew heavier materials - which is why I no longer own the machine from this video, by the way).
I'm planning a video on how to choose the right sewing machine, so look for that (hopefully) soon.
I hope that helps, thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for advice sir, I will do as you mentioned, and I will wait for your next video tc.
So Jason are you saying if I need to sew a few pieces of ballistic nylon from time to time that I can just stick with a regular sewing machine? If so what type of thread do you think I should use with the regular sewing machine?
Hi Paul,
Yes, you can definitely just use a domestic machine for ballistic nylon and similar fabrics. Actually, I sold this machine about a year ago. I almost exclusively use a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 for heavier stuff, and a collection of vintage domestics for everything else.
I almost always use V-69 nylon thread. It's generally considered the thickest thread that is recommended for domestic machines. I recommend checking out The Thread Exchange, they're a thread retailer and their website has a TON of great information on thread. I use a thread stand and cones of thread, even on my domestic machines. You might buy a small amount at first to make sure your machine runs well with it, but I have 11 machines and I've never run into a problem with it.
I'm terrible about matching needle size to thread, but I usually use between a size 90 to a size 110 in my domestic machines, size 20 to 22 in my machines that use industrial needles.
Thanks for your question, I hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
I have a question regarding sewing machines. How do I contact your channel?
la vende? Cuanto vale?
Esta máquina se ha vendido. Normalmente los veo a la venta por alrededor de $ 300.
Welcom to my chanel ... Broderie malak
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