Do you need to use the Danish oil first or can you just use the Tried and True Original? What is the difference? How long will this finish last before it needs to be reapplied?
You’ve probably figured this out by now but the Original Wood Finish always needs to be last due to the beeswax content. It’s not possible to apply anything on top of the beeswax except more Original Wood Finish.
I’m looking for an explanation of how to use the colorants. I have a 2” thick maple eating bar that I need to finish. I’d like to have the finished color more brown/gray rather than the honey yellow of natural maple. How can I put color in before applying the oil finish?
thanks for sharing this.didnt know u have a danish oil. my wife bought me the original and the varnish oil . I saw a demonstration of this product at Rockler but I forget the process. he combined both finishes. the original and the varnish. (it was a 3 hr class) so my question is -which one do I apply first? the original or the varnish oil? I saw the end result of the wood that he finished and oh my Lord Beautiful Finish!!☆☆☆☆☆ thanks for your time and Happy New Years
I've applied the T&T Varnish Oil to a table top I'm working on. Needless to say its my first time using this product. I applied the first coat, no issues. It went on almost exactly how you indicated in the video. I performed all the steps, burnished after 24hrs, after an hour wiped aggressively till the surface was not tacky, and nothing was left on the rag. Upon application of the 2nd coat, I noticed that it wasn't being absorbed into the surface as well. I applied a very thin film, following the same procedure I did with the first coat. Its been 4 days since my 2nd application, and I'm still noticing residual finish on the cloth after wiping, though the surface is dry to the touch. Almost every hour I've been back to the work piece to aggressively wipe it down. What can I do now? I'm almost at the point of grabbing my sander, ripping all this off and trying again from the start.
The T&T Danish Varnish Oil I use is thick, like honey at around 70 degrees. It's amazing. I've read some people heat it to 120 with good results- but I've not been so adventurous. I've used it on bare wood, previously varnished and oiled wood surfaces (teak and fir). After 3 or 4 coats, the wood doesn't really absorb any more. I am never in a hurry applying this product as it merits patient application. It's safe to use indoors and actually smells pleasant. If one has less time, I've had great results with Rubio Monocoat and Osmo one coat oils, but both require bare wood to absorb and cost substantially more money. Always wet and store saturated application material outdoors, in an open area or appropriate container to reduce risk of spontaneous combustion.
A bit like watching a Japanese tea ceremony. Such delicate application sure wouldn't work for large projects!. I"m using the T and T oil plus stain followed by T and T varnish oil on southern pine flooring. (The can says "not recommended for floors" but the T and T website has a pdf for floor application!! What gives??) Having applied two coats on the floor, I like the look (of course, it's new). The rag I used was pretty soaked, not this dainty doily thing he's using! I'm using lots of elbow grease, and will follow using a 10 inch rotary car buffer. Although I used more than this guy's extreme minimalist coat ("If you've used any, you've used enough") I still used only about a pint over 175 square feet, which would actually work out to 1400 sqft per gallon.
T. M. Kara I think it means that it’s not made specifically for floors but you can if you want just it won’t be optimal
4 ปีที่แล้ว
Anything to report from the process? how does your floor look after 2 years? There is very little reviews on this product used on floors. and virtually no where to see it
Hello, so is it raw linseed oil that is used? It says polymerized. Don’t you have to add driers to make it polymerized? Or do you heat treat raw linseed oil to polymerize it?
My understanding is that polymerization involves heating (and, ironically, "boiled" linseed oil is not heated, but contains additives). I believe T&T is a polymerized linseed oil, but it is interesting that he let it sit for another 3 days to fully dry (cure?) the piece.
Polymerized simply means oxidized (with the addition of oxygen). Linseed oil is highly unstable, and oxidizes quickly. Boiled linseed oil is heated to speed up the polymerization.
+Tried & True Wood Finishes: This was very helpful, and filled in the gaps on the can's instructions. I'm finishing a table; how many coats (applied and cured over a period of time) do you recommend for a project of that nature?
I tend to use my random orbital sander (ROS) only up to like 220 or even 320, but that said, I don't always catch all the pigtails made by the ROS. After ROS, I hand sand starting with the same grit that I used on the ROS. I think the mistake I've made is at this step of switching to hand-sanding where I have rushed it, failing to be more thorough. If I hold the board under different angles of light - or use a bright light on the surface - to ensure that all the pigtails are gone, I think that's what's needed. After that, if I am stepping up to higher grits in the hand-sanding phase, each grit tends to go pretty fast. I like to aim for a high grit because I like the glassy smooth surface that results. Many people disagree and insist that you only need to sand to lower grit. And then there are those purists who don't like sanding at all, and prefer cabinet scrapers. Anyway, I'm still experimenting and might give this product a try at some point. Happy woodworking.
I browsed your compnay's Tried & True Wood Stain. It seems your company's Tried & True stain contains Polymerized Linseed oil already. So, after I apply your company's Tried & True stain, do I still need to apply your company's Tried & True Danish Oil, which contain Polymerized Linseed oil only, as the second cover?
1/100th inch seems thick. Is that what you meant? Is the application process the same for the "Original Wood Finish"? - can you make a video for that one if not the same process?
The Original Wood Finish is used for the second and third coat. The application process is the same, except you need to let the finish penetrate for 1 hour instead of 5 minutes, and the curing process for the Original Wood Finish takes 24 hours instead of 8 hours.
Since it's a youtube video, we edited the video to show the techniques of burnishing rather than film the entire process. It's a judgement call as to how long you need to do it. The more time you spend burnishing, the harder and more durable your finish will become and it will also help to even out the sheen. It's important to burnish before each coat is applied.
This video's purpose is to give the viewer an overview of prepping the wood, applying the finish, and curing the wood. On a normal woodworking project, you would want to make sure you are covering the entire surface that you want to protect.
Nowhere in your written instructions do you say to burnish the surface. Nor do you say to start with "Danish Oil", then move to "Original Wood Finish". Maybe you could explain your reasoning here?
Since the Original Wood Finish contains beeswax, it must be the last finish you apply on the surface. Only other wax based finishes will bond over top of this product.
How will this effect future maintenance? You stated all you have to do to repair scuffs is to reapply the finish without sanding, but the initial steps included the danish oil. Will you see a difference in the finish? Also, will various cleaners effect whether or not you can reapply the topcoat without sanding?
I have used Murphys Oil Soap for cleaning my pieces with T&T wood finish on them. Works great and no resanding required. I recently used the Original Wood Finish on an old desk, without danish oil.
Just used this finish for the first time and love the way it turned out! Made a LOTR cake stand :)
Do you need to use the Danish oil first or can you just use the Tried and True Original? What is the difference? How long will this finish last before it needs to be reapplied?
You’ve probably figured this out by now but the Original Wood Finish always needs to be last due to the beeswax content. It’s not possible to apply anything on top of the beeswax except more Original Wood Finish.
I'd love to see a video on your varnish oil.
D'addario, sweet!
love the daddario apron
Did you burnish in between the coats of original?
I’m looking for an explanation of how to use the colorants. I have a 2” thick maple eating bar that I need to finish. I’d like to have the finished color more brown/gray rather than the honey yellow of natural maple. How can I put color in before applying the oil finish?
Can we use the varnish oil on resin?
thanks for sharing this.didnt know u have a danish oil. my wife bought me the original and the varnish oil . I saw a demonstration of this product at Rockler but I forget the process. he combined both finishes. the original and the varnish.
(it was a 3 hr class) so my question is -which one do I apply first? the original or the varnish oil? I saw the end result of the wood that he finished and oh my Lord Beautiful Finish!!☆☆☆☆☆ thanks for your time and Happy New Years
He " combined" them as in he used them both, one after another, or literally combined BEFORE using?
I've applied the T&T Varnish Oil to a table top I'm working on. Needless to say its my first time using this product.
I applied the first coat, no issues. It went on almost exactly how you indicated in the video. I performed all the steps, burnished after 24hrs, after an hour wiped aggressively till the surface was not tacky, and nothing was left on the rag. Upon application of the 2nd coat, I noticed that it wasn't being absorbed into the surface as well. I applied a very thin film, following the same procedure I did with the first coat.
Its been 4 days since my 2nd application, and I'm still noticing residual finish on the cloth after wiping, though the surface is dry to the touch. Almost every hour I've been back to the work piece to aggressively wipe it down.
What can I do now? I'm almost at the point of grabbing my sander, ripping all this off and trying again from the start.
Maybe your humidity is really high? Where are you located?
Evan you took advice from an old man good with a ponytail bad who recommends using steel wool oh dear me.
@@laurencekelly5081 0000 steel wool is used to burnish fine wood by professionals for years.
Just purchased the Tried and True Finish. When I opened the contents was really thick, not runny at all. Is this correct or should I get a new can.
The T&T Danish Varnish Oil I use is thick, like honey at around 70 degrees. It's amazing. I've read some people heat it to 120 with good results- but I've not been so adventurous. I've used it on bare wood, previously varnished and oiled wood surfaces (teak and fir). After 3 or 4 coats, the wood doesn't really absorb any more. I am never in a hurry applying this product as it merits patient application. It's safe to use indoors and actually smells pleasant. If one has less time, I've had great results with Rubio Monocoat and Osmo one coat oils, but both require bare wood to absorb and cost substantially more money. Always wet and store saturated application material outdoors, in an open area or appropriate container to reduce risk of spontaneous combustion.
A bit like watching a Japanese tea ceremony. Such delicate application sure wouldn't work for large projects!. I"m using the T and T oil plus stain followed by T and T varnish oil on southern pine flooring. (The can says "not recommended for floors" but the T and T website has a pdf for floor application!! What gives??) Having applied two coats on the floor, I like the look (of course, it's new). The rag I used was pretty soaked, not this dainty doily thing he's using! I'm using lots of elbow grease, and will follow using a 10 inch rotary car buffer. Although I used more than this guy's extreme minimalist coat ("If you've used any, you've used enough") I still used only about a pint over 175 square feet, which would actually work out to 1400 sqft per gallon.
T. M. Kara I think it means that it’s not made specifically for floors but you can if you want just it won’t be optimal
Anything to report from the process? how does your floor look after 2 years? There is very little reviews on this product used on floors. and virtually no where to see it
Hello, so is it raw linseed oil that is used? It says polymerized. Don’t you have to add driers to make it polymerized? Or do you heat treat raw linseed oil to polymerize it?
My understanding is that polymerization involves heating (and, ironically, "boiled" linseed oil is not heated, but contains additives). I believe T&T is a polymerized linseed oil, but it is interesting that he let it sit for another 3 days to fully dry (cure?) the piece.
Polymerized simply means oxidized (with the addition of oxygen). Linseed oil is highly unstable, and oxidizes quickly. Boiled linseed oil is heated to speed up the polymerization.
Is the danish oil separate from the stain?
Their Danish oil is pure polymerized linseed oil, but it does give the wood a darker and more golden (on lighter wood) coloration on its own.
would it be possible to apply this on my guitar neck that has a few coats of Tru oil already applied?
Yes
+Tried & True Wood Finishes:
This was very helpful, and filled in the gaps on the can's instructions.
I'm finishing a table; how many coats (applied and cured over a period of time) do you recommend for a project of that nature?
So DON'T burnish before the last coat of finish?
Sand only in the direction of the grain. Does that mean one must NOT use random orbital sanders?
I tend to use my random orbital sander (ROS) only up to like 220 or even 320, but that said, I don't always catch all the pigtails made by the ROS. After ROS, I hand sand starting with the same grit that I used on the ROS. I think the mistake I've made is at this step of switching to hand-sanding where I have rushed it, failing to be more thorough. If I hold the board under different angles of light - or use a bright light on the surface - to ensure that all the pigtails are gone, I think that's what's needed. After that, if I am stepping up to higher grits in the hand-sanding phase, each grit tends to go pretty fast. I like to aim for a high grit because I like the glassy smooth surface that results. Many people disagree and insist that you only need to sand to lower grit. And then there are those purists who don't like sanding at all, and prefer cabinet scrapers. Anyway, I'm still experimenting and might give this product a try at some point. Happy woodworking.
I browsed your compnay's Tried & True Wood Stain. It seems your company's Tried & True stain contains Polymerized Linseed oil already. So, after I apply your company's Tried & True stain, do I still need to apply your company's Tried & True Danish Oil, which contain Polymerized Linseed oil only, as the second cover?
1/100th inch seems thick. Is that what you meant?
Is the application process the same for the "Original Wood Finish"? - can you make a video for that one if not the same process?
The Original Wood Finish is used for the second and third coat. The application process is the same, except you need to let the finish penetrate for 1 hour instead of 5 minutes, and the curing process for the Original Wood Finish takes 24 hours instead of 8 hours.
Can I use a car buffer to burnish since Im doing a 8ft countertop it would be easier.
Needs to be a non-fiberous linen. Heat will cause damage to it if you use a buffer.
The can says "the more you rub the better it will look" - but you didn't spend much time rubbing. How much should I rub?
Since it's a youtube video, we edited the video to show the techniques of burnishing rather than film the entire process. It's a judgement call as to how long you need to do it. The more time you spend burnishing, the harder and more durable your finish will become and it will also help to even out the sheen. It's important to burnish before each coat is applied.
hi there,
I'm finishing a table; how many coats (applied and cured over a period of time) do you recommend for a project of that nature?
What are the steps to finish a floor using Tried & True Wood Stain and Tried & True Danish Oil Finish?
There are instructions on the website for flooring finish.
So you don't care about the edge on your left?
Good information but the music is distracting.
Whenever he says, "bring out the sheen" I go, "winning!"
Video looks good, but can’t hear audio. You need to get a microphone or use audio app to enhance your videos.
Why didn't you cover the entire piece? You left the edge dry on the first coat?
This video's purpose is to give the viewer an overview of prepping the wood, applying the finish, and curing the wood. On a normal woodworking project, you would want to make sure you are covering the entire surface that you want to protect.
Nowhere in your written instructions do you say to burnish the surface. Nor do you say to start with "Danish Oil", then move to "Original Wood Finish". Maybe you could explain your reasoning here?
Since the Original Wood Finish contains beeswax, it must be the last finish you apply on the surface. Only other wax based finishes will bond over top of this product.
How will this effect future maintenance? You stated all you have to do to repair scuffs is to reapply the finish without sanding, but the initial steps included the danish oil. Will you see a difference in the finish? Also, will various cleaners effect whether or not you can reapply the topcoat without sanding?
I have used Murphys Oil Soap for cleaning my pieces with T&T wood finish on them. Works great and no resanding required. I recently used the Original Wood Finish on an old desk, without danish oil.
Im use this product on a guitar it is not shining at all .
Camera microphone picking up tons of room reflections + unnecessary background makes you harder to hear.
I couldn't pull his voice out over the music. Nevermind.
I didn't have any issues at all. 🤷♂️
The completely unnecessary music track is quite distracting.
Audio is poor. Y’all need to add steps to the video description.