Give Charlotte a raise 😅. My issue is the bushing at the stanchion arm where the 16mm bolt is. It’s really bad. Can I just replace these bushings alone if I remove the bolt and swing the arm to the side? Then use like a c-clamp or press or jack? 🤔
Hahaha best comment I've gotten, as I should. She's helped with many more bolts since 😉 You could press out the bushing with a press, but that's alot of effort when it's easy & affordable to just replace the arm that comes with a new bushing. Powerflex makes new standalone bushings, if you do decide to go the press route.
@@saabross3171 😁 yeah, you’re right man. Makes more sense to go the arm route with the built in bushing. Thanks again for the great vids! Keep on Saabing.
Douglas.the.Younger That was interestingly my father's favorite part, as the process is simple yet clever. He proceeded to remove all the press nuts on the old arms "for practice" before the new! Just got another set in for the next Saab and needless to say he's rather excited haha
This is a great video! I’ve been looking into refreshing my front suspension with new bushings and balljoint. Genuine Saab has those parts, I’m sure that’s where you got yours
Thanks Richard. Yep, the control arms and end link bushings came from Genuinesaab.com. They're the only folks who offer the bolt upgrade in addition to polyurethane. The basic stanchion arms I believe we got from eEuroparts
Different car, but I imagine it's easiest to replace the whole arm unless the ball joints are designed to be separated like the 9-5. I can ask a guy I know who owns 2 9-7X's. He'd know.
Hi, how many miles do you have to replace the whole setup? I have 110k miles and driver rear shock Is lower than the other side. I was thinking just replace the shock, mount, and some rubber. I saw these parts are not expensive, so i might as well redo it.
There's no specific mileage, but from what I've seen, the rule of thumb is once you cross 100k alot of suspension components are worse than you think. The car in this video had about 120k at the time, and I just did a 9-5 suspension with 105k yesterday that was overdue. So yes, if you're able, I'd replace all you can & can afford.
@@saabross3171 Thanks for your reply. Do you use OEM parts or any after market will do the job? I meant the parts sells at Eeurope or eSaabparts. Not AutoZone brand
@@imanwan2861 Haha yes, no AutoZone! I use a mix of OEM from eSaabParts bc they have the best OEM prices, but I also use alot of OE quality aftermarket (ie Febi, Bosch, Bilstein) from eEuroParts, FCP Euro, RockAuto, and SOME Pro Parts Sweden. For suspension parts aftermarket is just as good and economical, the control arms here were upgrades from GenuineSaab.com and the stanchion arms were basic eEuro buys, perhaps ProPartsSweden.
If I go with the Taliferro control arm with upgraded bushing and bolts would you advise any other upgrades to the front suspension to do at the same time..
Just make sure you have 16" wheels so the upgraded bolt is no issue. The sway bar end links are great to replace while you're in there and I'd definitely, DEFINITELY add their power steering rack brace with the 22" rear anti-roll bar. The rear ARB makes a world of difference, especially if you're stiffening up the front. Taliaferro also makes a 2pt and 6pt brace that can help beef up the sloppy suspension on these cars, but I've never used them so idk how worth it they are. The 2pt seems easy to add while you're doing control arms. May be worth looking into as well.
so for my 1996 900se, do i need the get the control arms that the sway bar end link attaches to control arm, or the older one where it doesnt. just want to make sure i order the right part
Artic that's always a great question when it comes to the NG900. I wanna say they switched in '94, but there are two different designs. The old one the end link attached to the stanchion, later years it connects to the control arm. You can see the two in this diagram. The best way to verify is to go look under your car! www.esaabparts.com/viewparts.php?searchpart=1§ion=171155474
I assuming you're in the EU? We didn't get "Aero" models on these 9-3s in the States; but you did. Lucky! We also don't have the headlight level switch, as on non-Euro specs it's just a blank switch, so there's no ballast either. I'm afraid what you're asking is something I've never seen before, thanks to geography. Sorry I have no idea.
The ball joint is part of the arm, ripping the rubber boot is pretty much unavoidable. But replacement is easy, either with a new arm or re-booting the ball joint
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thank you.
James you are most welcome. Many thanks for the feedback!
Fun video to watch while training at the gym.☺ even though ive done it loads of times 😊
Great video. I replaced the lower control arms on my 9-5,tie rods,sway bar links,new tires and new struts but it hops/bounces a lot.
Give Charlotte a raise 😅. My issue is the bushing at the stanchion arm where the 16mm bolt is. It’s really bad. Can I just replace these bushings alone if I remove the bolt and swing the arm to the side? Then use like a c-clamp or press or jack? 🤔
Hahaha best comment I've gotten, as I should. She's helped with many more bolts since 😉
You could press out the bushing with a press, but that's alot of effort when it's easy & affordable to just replace the arm that comes with a new bushing. Powerflex makes new standalone bushings, if you do decide to go the press route.
@@saabross3171 😁 yeah, you’re right man. Makes more sense to go the arm route with the built in bushing. Thanks again for the great vids! Keep on Saabing.
Nice!! Nice work! Worth it just for the info on how to remove that press nut.
Cheers Saab Ross!
Douglas.the.Younger That was interestingly my father's favorite part, as the process is simple yet clever. He proceeded to remove all the press nuts on the old arms "for practice" before the new! Just got another set in for the next Saab and needless to say he's rather excited haha
Is loctite necessary? In the Saab service Manual there’s no mention of any additional stuff apart from the torque specs
This is a great video! I’ve been looking into refreshing my front suspension with new bushings and balljoint. Genuine Saab has those parts, I’m sure that’s where you got yours
Thanks Richard. Yep, the control arms and end link bushings came from Genuinesaab.com. They're the only folks who offer the bolt upgrade in addition to polyurethane. The basic stanchion arms I believe we got from eEuroparts
Thnks a lot, very useful !
My saab 97x lower ball joints are going out. Can I get just the ball joint replaced or do I have to replace the whole arm?
Different car, but I imagine it's easiest to replace the whole arm unless the ball joints are designed to be separated like the 9-5. I can ask a guy I know who owns 2 9-7X's. He'd know.
@@saabross3171 ok. Thank you 😊
Awesome! Thanks for doing this.
You're most welcome!
Hi! At which mileage you replaced the arms?
Hi, how many miles do you have to replace the whole setup? I have 110k miles and driver rear shock Is lower than the other side. I was thinking just replace the shock, mount, and some rubber. I saw these parts are not expensive, so i might as well redo it.
There's no specific mileage, but from what I've seen, the rule of thumb is once you cross 100k alot of suspension components are worse than you think. The car in this video had about 120k at the time, and I just did a 9-5 suspension with 105k yesterday that was overdue. So yes, if you're able, I'd replace all you can & can afford.
@@saabross3171 Thanks for your reply. Do you use OEM parts or any after market will do the job? I meant the parts sells at Eeurope or eSaabparts. Not AutoZone brand
@@imanwan2861 Haha yes, no AutoZone! I use a mix of OEM from eSaabParts bc they have the best OEM prices, but I also use alot of OE quality aftermarket (ie Febi, Bosch, Bilstein) from eEuroParts, FCP Euro, RockAuto, and SOME Pro Parts Sweden. For suspension parts aftermarket is just as good and economical, the control arms here were upgrades from GenuineSaab.com and the stanchion arms were basic eEuro buys, perhaps ProPartsSweden.
If I go with the Taliferro control arm with upgraded bushing and bolts would you advise any other upgrades to the front suspension to do at the same time..
Just make sure you have 16" wheels so the upgraded bolt is no issue. The sway bar end links are great to replace while you're in there and I'd definitely, DEFINITELY add their power steering rack brace with the 22" rear anti-roll bar. The rear ARB makes a world of difference, especially if you're stiffening up the front. Taliaferro also makes a 2pt and 6pt brace that can help beef up the sloppy suspension on these cars, but I've never used them so idk how worth it they are. The 2pt seems easy to add while you're doing control arms. May be worth looking into as well.
so for my 1996 900se, do i need the get the control arms that the sway bar end link attaches to control arm, or the older one where it doesnt. just want to make sure i order the right part
Artic that's always a great question when it comes to the NG900. I wanna say they switched in '94, but there are two different designs. The old one the end link attached to the stanchion, later years it connects to the control arm. You can see the two in this diagram. The best way to verify is to go look under your car!
www.esaabparts.com/viewparts.php?searchpart=1§ion=171155474
@@saabross3171 thanks, will do. I think I have the later year design, I’ll take a look soon though before I order the parts from rock auto
On a saab aero 93 how do you take the headlight ballast unit off on the lower control arm? Does it just bolt off?
I assuming you're in the EU? We didn't get "Aero" models on these 9-3s in the States; but you did. Lucky! We also don't have the headlight level switch, as on non-Euro specs it's just a blank switch, so there's no ballast either. I'm afraid what you're asking is something I've never seen before, thanks to geography. Sorry I have no idea.
Does this video also apply to a 2007 Saab 9-3?
It does not. Yours is a completely different design.
great video! about how long does this take to remove and replace?
Idk maybe 30-45min per? Definitely takes longer not having a lift, but not too bad.
What can you do not to destroy rubber boot on the ball moint
The ball joint is part of the arm, ripping the rubber boot is pretty much unavoidable. But replacement is easy, either with a new arm or re-booting the ball joint
Just give the cast iron a whak with a hammer when you want to disassemble the ball joint.