I hope yall found this one useful! Cheers! 🔩 Items: Safety Switch - amzn.to/3N9OQGt Solenoid - amzn.to/2FqHdsX 1'' Fire Bricks - amzn.to/42KxlCg Marshall Regulator - amzn.to/38UkPKN Steel Braded Propane Hose - amzn.to/3z2sQYR Propane Tank Adapter - amzn.to/3YF7077 30psi Gauge - amzn.to/3YleQmN Potential Blower Option: amzn.to/3JjVf0S 🛠 Tools Masonry Blade - amzn.to/3qLmHhF Pipe Wrenches - amzn.to/3NvZpoO 🔧 Most Fittings if not all of them can be found here: www.supplyhouse.com/ AND/OR here hightemptools.com/propaneregulators.html
I wouldnt worry about the temperature of your solenoid. Anytime you are using solenoids as safety "dump" valves that are always on, they will get pretty toasty, but never get anywhere near a temperature that will damage any of its components. Thank you for this video! You always go into great detail which just makes it much nicer to follow along. Since i am not years late to the party for once, also thank you for your video on the heat treat oven and all the work and diagrams you shared. Thanks to you have added the final piece to my "make whatever i want" shop, the forge/foundry portion.
If you're interested in an alternative to using Borax in your forge, I've had great results soaking my damascus billets in WD-40 before putting them in the forge. I don't use any flux at all during the forge welding process. It's awesome to not eat up the forge liner. Love the videos 🤙
The safety switch is a great idea. I will be adding it in the near future. I have just added a PID controller to manage the temp on my forge (as shown by Denis Tyrell). It works fabulously! You should consider it on your next reconfiguration.
Nice upgrades. Having witnessed a neighbor’s shop blow for that same reason (he was called away for a “brief” phone call), I totally support any reasonable safeties added to a forge.
Use a scrap piece of steel sheet and weld or bolt in a "baffle" between the forge and the whole solenoid/needle valve area to reduce the convection heat that reaches it? heck even a fire blanket from amazon might do the trick. great videos brother 👍🏻
would relocate the EMERGENCY KILL/On switch to the front leg, having it hidden behind several power cords on the back of the unit is a huge HUH? Personally I would have it on the front leg below the front door, so you could hit it with a knee to kill it if needed.
So you just have the 1/4” pipe going into that Tee? Is there a cap at the end with a 1/16 hole or something? Or the gas is just coming out of the full 1/4 pipe?
No jet, gas is just coming out. The forge it self holds the flame once rolling good. Note there could be some heat distribution efficiency with incorporating a ribbon burner to a system like this.
On the 1/2 reducer with the 1/4 in reducer, why not use a solid piece of 1 1/2 and remove the T ad just weld a 1/4 in pipe or thread to the black pipe. It is just you had the welder and it is cheaper and looks cleaner. That pipe threads easy and it is very low PSI. You could of plugged the ends of the black pipe and put a itr hose on the 1/4 in and sprayed soapy water on the weld to test. I am just online getting Ideas for a new forge build. I am thinking ribbon burn if I do a forced air.
@@RedBeardOpsagreed. I built a forced air burner forge and have never used a Venturi style burner. Way hot (2300 degrees on average) and uses a lot less propane
Oh, and I run it at about a half to 1 psi. Using a high flow attached to a low flow with a guage and a needle valve. It allows me to fine tune the flow of propane into the burner very nicely
James great job on your forge looks amazing i bought a ribbon burner forge kit 2 years ago from rob bonifico the burner is directly on top i havent used it yet i hope it will be alright whats your opinion ? i can email you some pics thanks Mark 😀😀👍👍✌
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
I hope yall found this one useful! Cheers!
🔩 Items:
Safety Switch - amzn.to/3N9OQGt
Solenoid - amzn.to/2FqHdsX
1'' Fire Bricks - amzn.to/42KxlCg
Marshall Regulator - amzn.to/38UkPKN
Steel Braded Propane Hose - amzn.to/3z2sQYR
Propane Tank Adapter - amzn.to/3YF7077
30psi Gauge - amzn.to/3YleQmN
Potential Blower Option: amzn.to/3JjVf0S
🛠 Tools
Masonry Blade - amzn.to/3qLmHhF
Pipe Wrenches - amzn.to/3NvZpoO
🔧 Most Fittings if not all of them can be found here:
www.supplyhouse.com/
AND/OR here
hightemptools.com/propaneregulators.html
I wouldnt worry about the temperature of your solenoid. Anytime you are using solenoids as safety "dump" valves that are always on, they will get pretty toasty, but never get anywhere near a temperature that will damage any of its components.
Thank you for this video! You always go into great detail which just makes it much nicer to follow along. Since i am not years late to the party for once, also thank you for your video on the heat treat oven and all the work and diagrams you shared. Thanks to you have added the final piece to my "make whatever i want" shop, the forge/foundry portion.
Thank you sir! Good points there. I'm glad you're enjoying the videos! Cheers
If you're interested in an alternative to using Borax in your forge, I've had great results soaking my damascus billets in WD-40 before putting them in the forge. I don't use any flux at all during the forge welding process. It's awesome to not eat up the forge liner. Love the videos 🤙
Thanks for the info! I've been using Kerosene (same deal) works great!
The safety switch is a great idea. I will be adding it in the near future. I have just added a PID controller to manage the temp on my forge (as shown by Denis Tyrell). It works fabulously! You should consider it on your next reconfiguration.
That's a great idea!
Nice upgrades. Having witnessed a neighbor’s shop blow for that same reason (he was called away for a “brief” phone call), I totally support any reasonable safeties added to a forge.
Thanks for your comment sir
Good call on the safety switch.
Thank you sir!
Nice build.
Cheers, thanks!
Use a scrap piece of steel sheet and weld or bolt in a "baffle" between the forge and the whole solenoid/needle valve area to reduce the convection heat that reaches it? heck even a fire blanket from amazon might do the trick. great videos brother 👍🏻
That's a good idea. Cheers sir!
@@RedBeardOps 👍🏻🫡
Hey Red Beard, try placing a hole cut piece of wonder board/ cement board between your forge and assembly. It will cut the temp in half.
Nice idea!
would relocate the EMERGENCY KILL/On switch to the front leg, having it hidden behind several power cords on the back of the unit is a huge HUH? Personally I would have it on the front leg below the front door, so you could hit it with a knee to kill it if needed.
So you just have the 1/4” pipe going into that Tee? Is there a cap at the end with a 1/16 hole or something? Or the gas is just coming out of the full 1/4 pipe?
No jet, gas is just coming out. The forge it self holds the flame once rolling good.
Note there could be some heat distribution efficiency with incorporating a ribbon burner to a system like this.
Excellent video very informative 👏🤙👋
Glad it was helpful!
On the 1/2 reducer with the 1/4 in reducer, why not use a solid piece of 1 1/2 and remove the T ad just weld a 1/4 in pipe or thread to the black pipe. It is just you had the welder and it is cheaper and looks cleaner. That pipe threads easy and it is very low PSI. You could of plugged the ends of the black pipe and put a itr hose on the 1/4 in and sprayed soapy water on the weld to test. I am just online getting Ideas for a new forge build. I am thinking ribbon burn if I do a forced air.
Not a bad idea! I could have gone that route for sure. One of these days I may try a ribbon burner... they look awesome!
did you show how your gas was injected into the T pipe in a previous video James? or is it just fed in through that nipple?
You mean my old setup? It was threaded into a reducer. Not nearly as strong as this assembly with the appropriate fittings. Cheers Troy!
Do you find alot better performance and efficiency with this type of burner as opposed to the venturi/atmospheric type?
Thanks for all you do.👍🍻
Yes, absolutely. Way more control and more turn down with the gas supply. Big fan of the blown burners
@@RedBeardOps Would you suggest starting with this type of system or the more simple venturi?
@@101JRA If you have the means, time, etc; I'd vote for the blown burner. Over the venturi.
@@RedBeardOpsagreed. I built a forced air burner forge and have never used a Venturi style burner. Way hot (2300 degrees on average) and uses a lot less propane
Oh, and I run it at about a half to 1 psi. Using a high flow attached to a low flow with a guage and a needle valve. It allows me to fine tune the flow of propane into the burner very nicely
From the research I did, the solenoid valve that everyone is using isn't rated for continuous duty. It may be the reason for it getting hot.
For sure accurate on the rating. I'll report back with my findings after moving it.
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
FACT: the baby blue colour on the pipe wrenches (called stilsons here in England) reduces their strength by 37.8%.
😎
LOL; 100% accurate! Cheers sir
James great job on your forge looks amazing i bought a ribbon burner forge kit 2 years ago from rob bonifico the burner is directly on top i havent used it yet i hope it will be alright whats your opinion ? i can email you some pics thanks Mark 😀😀👍👍✌
Ribbon burners are the bomb... one day I may build one of those! Good luck with yours sir!
Good call on the safety switch.
Thank you sir!