1. Cartridge oil filters should be filled completely, half drain if required (the paper element inside should be fully soaked). 2. Filter o-ring should be lubricated with oil prior to fitment, as it can dislodge when fitted and it assists removal. 3. Cartridge oil filters should never be any more than hand tightened..! 4. If you are concerned with a lack of lubrication at initial start up, then disable ignition or fuel and crank the engine over a few times.
Well I never would have imagined an oil filter inside the sump! I've also been considering a MG for many years and if I ever do get around to it I wont be surprised now. I do believe most of the sludge that reaches the bottom just sits there as you motor along staying out of harms way, but of course clean it out once in a while. I will say some times you change oil and it immediately is black so obviously there are puddles that do not drain and mix in right away.
He is not 100% correct, there is plug that enables you to access the filter without removing the sump on the 1100 Sport, V11, however because that is a fiddle and needs a tool many including me drop the sump. Also every other oil change you should clean the mesh filter.
Just watched this video out of interest. I made the experience the better oil you use, the less sludge you will have. The previous owner of my LeMans 3 used mineral 10w40 (which is the wrong viscosity to start with). I changed it to fully synthetic 10W50, rode about 500km and then changed again to 10W60 (always with a new oil filter of course). Since I'm using fully synthetic oil, there is absolutely no sludge in the oil sump.
modderfreak--- Sludge- the presence or absence thereof- is not a function of oil type (synthetic vs. conventional), but of 'detergent' content (found in the additive package). Better quality oils, be they conventional or synthetic, contain enough 'detergents' in their additive package to hold the sludge particles in suspension, thereby allowing them to be carried to the filter, where they're filtered out. And that's the other element in the maintenance world that is so often overlooked- oil filter quality. How small of a particle (measured in microns- one 10,000th of an inch each) and how much carrying capacity, or filtering element, is in the filter will go a long ways in determining your engine's lifespan. Go to an auto parts store or to a Walmart and pick up a Bosch oil filter in one hand and a Fram in the other of equal size and you'll get an idea of what I'm getting at. The Bosch is heavier, a LOT heavier, as well as being more expensive, so if you want to give your engine the best shot at a long life (1.) stick with a high quality oil (my favorite is Castrol) and a high quality filter. Scrimp on either oil or filter and you'll shorten your engine's life. Just remember that oil filter quality as well as capacity is just as critical to engine life as is oil quality.
@@alexanderkasady6839not exactly, that sludge is formed as a result of oxidation which forms acids which aren't oil soluble and so falls out of solution and forms a sludge, higher quality oils especially fully synthetics will have better resistance to oxidation and will form less sludge even with a lower detergent/TBN content, of course you can resolve the issue in all oils by the use of detergents and dispersants which carry this material to the filter
Thanks Motoguzzler. I just got my first Moto Guzzi, a 1998 California EV-11. It's been cold here in New York so I'm anxious to see some warmer weather coming our way. I subscribed & I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos. Beautiful by the way! I love the color.
Well, I have been looking at new California for sometime now and always wondered why there are so many on the used market. I talked to a used motorcycle dealer friend and he informed me that you had completely remove the oil pan/sump to change the oil filter. I really could not believe him. My daily driver, 97 Goldwing GL1500 requires 15 min. oil and filter change. I ride about 50k a year between 4 motorcycles. I can't imagine dropping the pan twice a year for an oil and filter change...I understand the reason for it, but damn... I even suggested an aftermarket remote filter like some of the Japanese motorcycles have...clearly that is not a possibility. I guess this is a motorcycle I am going to have to admire from afar...
Good tutorial. Prep- clean sump area good of road dirt, gather all tools, filter/gakets/oil and have on hand. After each change I order the filter gaskets ready for the next one, the oil change distances routine, the time between varies ( obviously). A well as write date on filter, I keep a log book with notes on sequence-socket sizes- wrench torques, change milage and next oil change due milage for quick reference. Have used kerosene for cleaning with no issues, also I use a torque wrench on everything to avoid risk of stripped threads, (they are not expensive in comparison to a thread repair).
Very informative. I've become interested in the MG brand and obviously learned something today. While this is a bit more complicated than oil changes on most bikes I like the design and the ability to clean the sump. I do have a few a few questions. Are the oil change intervals 5K ? If so that's a lot of changing and would require an oil change on some of my summer trips. I find it interesting the oil filter is a painted and wonder if any paint may flake off into the oil? Lastly, what is that loud tapping when you started the bike? She is beautiful by the way.
Very good thanks for the video. I recently purchased a 2000 jackal I'm having problems with it I probably need to put a new wiring harness on it and right now I could sure use some help and working on it I love it it's wonderful bike.
Very helpful. I just acquired a very similar bike, a 2003 California EV Touring. Getting "mature" and am looking for floorboards, upright stance, wind protection and less nervous motorcycle. One question, -Where did you get that great windshield?
hello thank you for the video is really helpful and well explain/ I wonder if you could give me advice with a matter. my father in law has a moto guzzi California 2001 with only 8000 miles, the bike looks amazing and pretty much new, but has been unused for over 10 years now. we want to make it run again, I have basic knowledge of mechanic, so was planning to do service, oil, fitlers, spark plug, what else you think will need to be done?? the bike has always worked perfectly he just stop using it. I would really appreciate your advise thank you.
asier zenrut as well as oil and filters change I’d empty the petrol tank and put fresh fuel a new battery and maybe new spark plugs and you will be good good luck
Thanks a lot for doing this video Sir! I'm right about to do the same operation on my California Stone. This is so helpful :). I feel pretty confident I can do this now! Cheers from California. 2 questions: Do you have an amazon link to buy the gasket? Can I use water to wash the whole container? I don't have Turpentine..
Thanks for the response! I've followed your video and operated the same steps. Now something odd happens: The oil lamp gets on at low RPM. It goes off when I put some speed. Any idea what the problem may be?
It looks cavernous inside that crankcase.Ive got to do all sorts of things to my i convert. Trying to decide about an engine rebuild. It's at 55,000 miles. Doesn't seem tired. Guess i'll have a look when i get the sump off it.
Hi Gladbandana I'm glad you liked my video and found it educational I may do an oil change on the V7 but not for some time sorry. Check out my other videos cheers from motoguzzler
I didn't hear how many miles you put on your motor before changing the sump oil and filter. Do you recommend changing the filter every time you change sump oil? Thank you.
It doesn't hurt to change the filter as often as you like, but I can tell you that Moto Guzzi recommends changing the filter every third oil change. Prior to 1990 or so they used to say every fifth oil change. In general, more is to be gained from changing the oil frequently rather than changing the oil filter frequently. But as this video clearly points out you can do a better job of getting all the crud out if you drop the pan . If you're going to bother dropping the pan why not just swap out the filter. If you do decide to drop the pan and change the filter, you will be wise to order a spare gasket for the pan so you have it on hand. Sooner or later you will break the original one or just realize that it is time to replace it and you will be glad you have one on hand. As for the oil of choice, I have found nothing better than regular 15w 50 Mobil 1 and I top it off every 500 miles or so and change it at somewhere around 5000 miles. But there are a plethora of good oils out there on the market nowadays, so decide for yourself on what you prefer and change it accordingly.
Your bike looks like a 2003-2005 model with the hydraulic tappets. Have you had the recall done? Metal shavings in the oil coulgd be camshaft wear. The oil pump can pick those shavings up and destroy your engine.
not EVERY MODEL needed a recall faulty cams were only fitted within a specific frame number range this dident affect every single model California made during this period this was a "batch" of camshafts that were not hardened correctly by the supplier to Moto Guzzi, a "batch" not every single bike
You don't have to take sump off tonget sludge out. U just need front higher then the rear. Also I only drop sump every other oil change. Now to be fair I always change my filter every year regardless of milage. My sump has never been that gross. Maybe because I use amsoil.
Amazing! In the 21st century, Moto Guzzi wants us to disassemble the crankcase to make the periodic change of the oil filter? Totally absurd! 30 years ago, it was much easier with my Moto Guzzi NTX!
I like the part at the beginning where you try to justify how such and incredibly stupid system makes sense. You've got a problem if your oil pan contains anywhere near that amount of sludge and metal in the sump. I've taken plenty of oil pans off of cars that have been in place for 100,000 miles and not had anywhere near this much garbage in it. Assuming you've taken reasonable care of the bike, which I don't doubt, then there is some seriously incompetent design and/or manufacturing going on, if that's somehow normal.
Watching this video is more painful than doing the job, just drained mine this mourning after standing outside in UK for over 20 years zero water in oil zero emulsion zero swarf the emulsion comes from the stupid Guzzi idea of using the frame for oil fumes.
Well done, sir! I'm doing my first oil change on my "new" 2004 MG Cali EV. Your video was very instructional and quite helpful. Thank you!
1. Cartridge oil filters should be filled completely, half drain if required (the paper element inside should be fully soaked).
2. Filter o-ring should be lubricated with oil prior to fitment, as it can dislodge when fitted and it assists removal.
3. Cartridge oil filters should never be any more than hand tightened..!
4. If you are concerned with a lack of lubrication at initial start up, then disable ignition or fuel and crank the engine over a few times.
Well I never would have imagined an oil filter inside the sump! I've also been considering a MG for many years and if I ever do get around to it I wont be surprised now. I do believe most of the sludge that reaches the bottom just sits there as you motor along staying out of harms way, but of course clean it out once in a while. I will say some times you change oil and it immediately is black so obviously there are puddles that do not drain and mix in right away.
He is not 100% correct, there is plug that enables you to access the filter without removing the sump on the 1100 Sport, V11, however because that is a fiddle and needs a tool many including me drop the sump. Also every other oil change you should clean the mesh filter.
Thank you for showing the complete process properly
Brilliant. Just bought a 2003 California - same colour. Excellent guide.
Very useful, thanks. I'm about to do this job for the first time on a Cali Vintage so appreciate your video.
[EDIT]: Job done. Thanks very much.
Just watched this video out of interest. I made the experience the better oil you use, the less sludge you will have. The previous owner of my LeMans 3 used mineral 10w40 (which is the wrong viscosity to start with). I changed it to fully synthetic 10W50, rode about 500km and then changed again to 10W60 (always with a new oil filter of course). Since I'm using fully synthetic oil, there is absolutely no sludge in the oil sump.
modderfreak--- Sludge- the presence or absence thereof- is not a function of oil type (synthetic vs. conventional), but of 'detergent' content (found in the additive package). Better quality oils, be they conventional or synthetic, contain enough 'detergents' in their additive package to hold the sludge particles in suspension, thereby allowing them to be carried to the filter, where they're filtered out. And that's the other element in the maintenance world that is so often overlooked- oil filter quality. How small of a particle (measured in microns- one 10,000th of an inch each) and how much carrying capacity, or filtering element, is in the filter will go a long ways in determining your engine's lifespan. Go to an auto parts store or to a Walmart and pick up a Bosch oil filter in one hand and a Fram in the other of equal size and you'll get an idea of what I'm getting at. The Bosch is heavier, a LOT heavier, as well as being more expensive, so if you want to give your engine the best shot at a long life (1.) stick with a high quality oil (my favorite is Castrol) and a high quality filter. Scrimp on either oil or filter and you'll shorten your engine's life. Just remember that oil filter quality as well as capacity is just as critical to engine life as is oil quality.
@@alexanderkasady6839not exactly, that sludge is formed as a result of oxidation which forms acids which aren't oil soluble and so falls out of solution and forms a sludge, higher quality oils especially fully synthetics will have better resistance to oxidation and will form less sludge even with a lower detergent/TBN content, of course you can resolve the issue in all oils by the use of detergents and dispersants which carry this material to the filter
Thanks Motoguzzler. I just got my first Moto Guzzi, a 1998 California EV-11. It's been cold here in New York so I'm anxious to see some warmer weather coming our way. I subscribed & I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos. Beautiful by the way! I love the color.
I wouldn't do this job without a shop manual with all the torque specs and good torque wrench.
Well, I have been looking at new California for sometime now and always wondered why there are so many on the used market. I talked to a used motorcycle dealer friend and he informed me that you had completely remove the oil pan/sump to change the oil filter. I really could not believe him. My daily driver, 97 Goldwing GL1500 requires 15 min. oil and filter change. I ride about 50k a year between 4 motorcycles. I can't imagine dropping the pan twice a year for an oil and filter change...I understand the reason for it, but damn... I even suggested an aftermarket remote filter like some of the Japanese motorcycles have...clearly that is not a possibility. I guess this is a motorcycle I am going to have to admire from afar...
It's not that big a job. Takes me about 30 minutes.
I read where you can change the filter after three oil changes.
Thank you very much for your video. I managed to do it as you show it. Great work!!!!
Good tutorial. Prep- clean sump area good of road dirt, gather all tools, filter/gakets/oil and have on hand. After each change I order the filter gaskets ready for the next one, the oil change distances routine, the time between varies ( obviously). A well as write date on filter, I keep a log book with notes on sequence-socket sizes- wrench torques, change milage and next oil change due milage for quick reference. Have used kerosene for cleaning with no issues, also I use a torque wrench on everything to avoid risk of stripped threads, (they are not expensive in comparison to a thread repair).
Tracy van Veldhuisen what is torque on oil filter?
Very informative. I've become interested in the MG brand and obviously learned something today.
While this is a bit more complicated than oil changes on most bikes I like the design and the ability to clean the sump. I do have a few a few questions. Are the oil change intervals 5K ? If so that's a lot of changing and would require an oil change on some of my summer trips.
I find it interesting the oil filter is a painted and wonder if any paint may flake off into the oil? Lastly, what is that loud tapping when you started the bike?
She is beautiful by the way.
Very good thanks for the video. I recently purchased a 2000 jackal I'm having problems with it I probably need to put a new wiring harness on it and right now I could sure use some help and working on it I love it it's wonderful bike.
Thank you for this video! It helped me with the basics to change oil on my 84 V65C. :)
Very helpful. I just acquired a very similar bike, a 2003 California EV Touring. Getting "mature" and am looking for floorboards, upright stance, wind protection and less nervous motorcycle.
One question, -Where did you get that great windshield?
Google screens for bikes in Melbourne it makes a massive difference to the original
Some put a hose clamp around the oil filter with the screw against the filter screen cover.
Thanks, I bought a California ev from 2004, now I know how to change the oil en filter, super.
Have you ever put a hose clamp around the oil filter to keep it from unscrewing? Putting the screw clamp against the screen housing.
Edward, the recall replaced the lifters not the camshaft unless it was damaged too.
hello thank you for the video is really helpful and well explain/ I wonder if you could give me advice with a matter. my father in law has a moto guzzi California 2001 with only 8000 miles, the bike looks amazing and pretty much new, but has been unused for over 10 years now. we want to make it run again, I have basic knowledge of mechanic, so was planning to do service, oil, fitlers, spark plug, what else you think will need to be done?? the bike has always worked perfectly he just stop using it. I would really appreciate your advise thank you.
asier zenrut as well as oil and filters change I’d empty the petrol tank and put fresh fuel a new battery and maybe new spark plugs and you will be good good luck
good old classic.. thanks for the video
Awesome dude! Cares about his machine.
Thanks a lot. The 4 X 10mm were not discrived in my manuel. Greatings from Belgium.
You have a new subscriber!
couldnt tell if you were british or australian but then i saw the shorts xD
Thanks from Moskow! :)
Thanks Motoguzzler. A question for you, do you check the oil level with the dip stick screwed all the way in or resting on the thread :)
Resting on the thread after a wipe clean.
Thanks a lot for doing this video Sir! I'm right about to do the same operation on my California Stone. This is so helpful :). I feel pretty confident I can do this now! Cheers from California. 2 questions: Do you have an amazon link to buy the gasket? Can I use water to wash the whole container? I don't have Turpentine..
Water doesn't mix with oil you can buy mineral turpentine at any paint shop it's inexpensive
Thanks for the response! I've followed your video and operated the same steps. Now something odd happens: The oil lamp gets on at low RPM. It goes off when I put some speed. Any idea what the problem may be?
It looks cavernous inside that crankcase.Ive got to do all sorts of things to my i convert. Trying to decide about an engine rebuild. It's at 55,000 miles. Doesn't seem tired. Guess i'll have a look when i get the sump off it.
what oil does it have?
Thanks for the video man. I really appreciate it
Very informative but I wish you’d get to the point and stop repeating yourself and going on, and on, and on.........................
John Olbison hahaha sometimes you need to drum it in to people cheers
I was going to write the same; I will just cosign yours.
Would you do this operation on the v7 Racer as well? I'm coming up to my second oil change on my v7 Racer. Great video!
Hi Gladbandana I'm glad you liked my video and found it educational I may do an oil change on the V7 but not for some time sorry. Check out my other videos cheers from motoguzzler
I didn't hear how many miles you put on your motor before changing the sump oil and filter. Do you recommend changing the filter every time you change sump oil? Thank you.
It doesn't hurt to change the filter as often as you like, but I can tell you that Moto Guzzi recommends changing the filter every third oil change. Prior to 1990 or so they used to say every fifth oil change. In general, more is to be gained from changing the oil frequently rather than changing the oil filter frequently. But as this video clearly points out you can do a better job of getting all the crud out if you drop the pan . If you're going to bother dropping the pan why not just swap out the filter. If you do decide to drop the pan and change the filter, you will be wise to order a spare gasket for the pan so you have it on hand. Sooner or later you will break the original one or just realize that it is time to replace it and you will be glad you have one on hand. As for the oil of choice, I have found nothing better than regular 15w 50 Mobil 1 and I top it off every 500 miles or so and change it at somewhere around 5000 miles. But there are a plethora of good oils out there on the market nowadays, so decide for yourself on what you prefer and change it accordingly.
I'm wondering if there were any very fine little metal filings in the sludge on the bottom of the pan?
😂
Yeah me too: he doesn't say...more than 50f or 60 times. I also wonder if you can get all the oil out by simply using the drain plug...ya think?
Your bike looks like a 2003-2005 model with the hydraulic tappets. Have you had the recall done? Metal shavings in the oil coulgd be camshaft wear. The oil pump can pick those shavings up and destroy your engine.
not EVERY MODEL needed a recall faulty cams were only fitted within a specific frame number range this dident affect every single model California made during this period this was a "batch" of camshafts that were not hardened correctly by the supplier to Moto Guzzi, a "batch" not every single bike
Brilliant thanks.
Good video, Thanks
Nice, thank you!
Thanks so much it will my first service.
Hi anyone can help to share a link of online parts fir moto guzzi california thks
You don't have to take sump off tonget sludge out. U just need front higher then the rear. Also I only drop sump every other oil change. Now to be fair I always change my filter every year regardless of milage. My sump has never been that gross. Maybe because I use amsoil.
That sludge is most certainly not going to run out from having the front higher
You did tighten excessively all the screws ! 😮
Whoever designed that filter location should be locked up! Madness.
Informative but extremely long winded
Amazing! In the 21st century, Moto Guzzi wants us to disassemble the crankcase to make the periodic change of the oil filter? Totally absurd! 30 years ago, it was much easier with my Moto Guzzi NTX!
The oil filter should be replaced after three oil changes. However sump pans are available with fitting for external oil filter.
💪💪💪👍👍👍👌👌👌
What a pain, If the new mandalo is like this I will skip the guzzi
2:45 😂😂😂
I like the part at the beginning where you try to justify how such and incredibly stupid system makes sense. You've got a problem if your oil pan contains anywhere near that amount of sludge and metal in the sump. I've taken plenty of oil pans off of cars that have been in place for 100,000 miles and not had anywhere near this much garbage in it. Assuming you've taken reasonable care of the bike, which I don't doubt, then there is some seriously incompetent design and/or manufacturing going on, if that's somehow normal.
Watching this video is more painful than doing the job, just drained mine this mourning after standing outside in UK for over 20 years zero water in oil zero emulsion zero swarf the emulsion comes from the stupid Guzzi idea of using the frame for oil fumes.
On
Ну вот.....Итальяно.....мотор!...надо..открутить поддон...для замены...фильтра....!Макароны....в мозгах!!!Хорошо...не купил!
Но, как говорил автор видоса, не плохо сделано, так как каждый раз хозяину мота приходится хорошо отчистить поддон от всего накопившегося дерьма.
What a dumb design. It looks like you're changing a transmission filter in a car. How hard would it be to just re-route piping on the motors.
Larger sump pans are available with external fitting for oil filter.