If you have questions about the cuts I would be glad to try and answer them. When you cut off a branch you just have to be mindful that the branch will die back from where you cut it so you want to leave a small length (~1/4") so it doesn't die back into the main wood. This will allow the cuts to heal properly.
Here in Oregon we used to just have two main varieties: Barcelona and Ennis. After the Eastern Filbert Blight severely damaged those varieties the local university here (OSU) helped develop many new varieties that are blight resistant…but not immune. Jefferson is a good larger nut with an upright growing tree but we also have McDonald, Polly-O, Yamhill, Wepster, Dorris and several others to choose from.
@@jeffchapin7248 We grow hazelnuts with more than one root in Turkey. 'yağlı fındık, 'palaz fındık' and the most famous of the western Black Sea is 'delisava fındık'. Thank you very much for your valuable information. I can bring the mentioned variety to Turkey for experimental purposes. Is there a reliable seller for this?
@@banadokunma Niyetiniz hoş fakat lütfen ama lütfen yurdışından alınan filizler için karantina politikalarına dikkat edin. Son 15 yıldaki fall webworm ve powdery mildew strainlerininin yayılışına bakılınca buna benzer bir inoculum olduğunu tahmin ediyorum. Anisogramma anomala yani adamın bahsettiği EFB bir karantina patojeni, türkiyeye girmesi halinde çözüm bulmak çok zor. Bu tür çiftçilerden kargoyla almayın aldırmayın, gümrükte gözden kaçması halinde EFB olmayan bahçelere EFB bulaştırma ihtimaliniz var. Adana'daki citrus yetiştiricilerininde farkındalığı arttı citrus greening phytoplasma tehditini gördükten sonra. Karadeniz fındığı içinde EFB olayı olmasın.
Here in Oregon I like to prune mid to late winter, before they break bud (Jan to end of February). For Oregon with all of the rain we get if you prune early winter then you need to spray for bacteria blight (copper). If you prune late winter after most of the rains then sometimes you can get by without having bacteria blight issues. It also depends on how many cuts you are making if you need to do the bacterial blight spray…if you are only taking off 5-7 small branches then I probably would not spray for bacteria blight. If you are making a lot of open wounds on the tree then I would definitely spray.
@@jeffchapin7248 I appreciate your comprehensive explanation. Our small farm (22 acres) is located in regional Victoria, Australia. We have a temperate climate and it will make sense to wait until the end of winter, very early Spring. We have less than 1000 trees, so I'm trying to decide on a bush (with regular pruning) or a standard tree as you have shown in your video. We are unlikely to use machines, do you have any views?
Very interesting, thanks. I just bought some land in Italy. It used to be an orchard maybe one generation ago. Still legally recorded as an orchard. It goes down to a channel with some water all year long. Now many oaks has grown making it into a sort of young oak woodland. But near the channel (which looks like a small stream, but it is legally a channel, big difference over what you can do around it) I found several hazelnut plants. I don't know the variety but probably the european variety would be a good guess. I have no words to describe the size of those hazelnuts, they are beyond huge. Maybe 6 to 9 meters. The size of the vertical trunks are bigger than my leg. And of course I cannot reach nearly anything about it. With a drone I made some recognition around it and they stand way beyond all other canopy. I also don't know how many of those plants are there as they follow the channel, in what seem to be like two lines on my side of the channel. Until eventually the woods gets so thick I haven't managed to enter yet. How do I deal with it? In theory I would like to bring them back into production while keeping as much as possible the feeling of wilderness there. Do you think you could help me on this?
I would be glad to help out. Can you take some pictures of the trees so I can see what we are dealing with. My phone number is at the end of the video if you want to text me some pictures.
@@emmanuelorchardspathwayfam3646 thanks. Right now I am far away with my family. I shall be back in Septembre and then I will send you the pictures :-). Many thanks again, best regards, Pietro
Can you train just about any hazelnut into a tree? Or should some be left as bushes? I have some young beaked hazelnut seedlings growing and is it also possible to train them? Or would wild genetics make it hard to do so? Main concerns are weak leaders and excessive suckering.
Hazelnuts naturally grow as a bush. For commercial agriculture we train them into trees so we can easily harvest/fertilize/control weeds/suckers/etc. However all of the varieties we have here in Oregon can be trained into trees. If you are starting with a bush I would suggest not allowing new suckers to grow and trimming off some of the larger suckers each year until you get back to one trunk. If you try to take all of the suckers off at once you could kill the bush from all of the open wounds. Hazelnuts do like to be pruned and even as a tree we try to prune them every 3 to 5 years to promote new growth up top.
Hi and thanks for this video. Are these trees on a Turkish hazel root, to make it tree like, or do you cut off all suckers? How tall do they grow like this? Thanks
We have our orchards in Salem, Oregon and have several varieties that we manage (Ennis, Barcelona, Jefferson, McDonald, Lewis, etc.) however I believe none of these varieties are using the Turkish root stock. All of our varieties would prefer to grow as bushes but we prune them to be trees so our harvest equipment can work well in the orchards. We manage the suckers by both spraying them and cutting them off. We typically do 3-5 spray applications from spring to late summer and then in late fall or winter, after we harvest, we cut off the suckers so there is just one trunk. Each variety varies in terms of size but the trees grow anywhere from about 20' to 35' tall once they are fully mature.
Hello! Please advise a novice gardener, which variety of nut is better to start? I plan about 20 acres first. I want to form a tree and not a bush. Which variety would you recommend Jefferson or Pollyo? I understand that the fruits are different and are intended for different markets. What planting scheme do you use? Thanks in advance!
There are a lot of different factors to determine what variety is best for your specific farm. Where do you live at? What soil type do you have? If you prefer to call and talk first text me and then I can add you to my contacts so you can call me. My number is (503) 508-1869 and I am in the Pacific time zone.
We are located in Salem, Oregon. If you hand pick and are not using harvest equipment then I can see why some people would recommend a bush form. However if you harvest your hazelnuts with equipment then we have found it is much easier to sweep/pick them if they are trained as trees rather than bushes. We do harvest some of our orchards as bushes but we lose some of the nuts at the base of the bushes and it is hard on the harvest equipment with the lower branches.
I'm in Tennessee, I'm training all mine to be trees, easier to mow and harder for critter's to get to the nuts. Also probably easier to find on the ground if they drop.
@@jasonbourne1596 I should mention I am in central Ontario Canada. I have a friend who trained them into trees. One year the raccoons came in and tore down the branches. The other problem where I am with trees is the rabbits and voles chew the stems. With bushes they have trouble girdling all the shoots. I don't have to use winter protectors. It really depends on what works where a person is. Oh yes! With the heavy squirrel population here nuts never fall on the ground. In fact I have to pick them when still a bit green and let them ripen safely away from the bushes.
Yamhill trees like to grow sideways so they are a little tricky to get to prune. They like to bear heavy but they are a pain to get to grow upwards. I know of a farmer who grows a lot of Yamhill that has cutters he mounts on hit tractor to cut off the sideways growing branches to allow room for his sweeper and picker to make it through the orchard. I would still cut off crossing branches, any branches growing straight down and try to aim for 5-7 main scaffolding branches.
@@emmanuelorchardspathwayfam3646 Thank you for the reply- sure is helpful information for curious new growers weighing their options as to orchard planning!
@@paulinekotlarz1172 If you a planning a new orchard then I would look at the latest released variety from OSU, called Polly-O. It is supposed to have similar yield as the Yamhill but be more of an upright tree for easier pruning and shaping. If you need more info on any of the varieties just let me know. If you are local to Oregon then we also sell all of the varieties and I can show you our layering bed trees.
@@emmanuelorchardspathwayfam3646 I'm actually up in BC, Canada, though not in the Fraser Valley area as everyone always assumes, haha. My climate is colder/longer than coastal weather and hazelnuts will grow here but I have to be cognizant of cold hardiness and pollinator seasons to a greater extent. Polly O seems a great variety for marketability, I have more reading to do....thank you.
I’m not familiar with the term spindle tree but hazelnuts do prefer to grow as a bush and can be grown this way in a small garden. For farm growing we prune them into a tree since they are easier to pick. Let me know if this answers your question. Thanks
How important from your point of view are the terms of pruning? If done during warm season does it contribute to more illnesses (if you ever noticed)? Thank you.
If possible, pruning should be done when the tree is dormant. Ideally you would prune just before bud break in the late winter or early spring. If you prune in the summer then you are cutting off branches with leaves on them which provide energy (solar power) to the tree that puts stress on the tree. If we prune here in early winter then we have to be careful of bacterial blight entering the tree so we power-blast copper on the trees to help prevent that. The more open wounds on the tree the more likely to get bacterial blight so it is best to do smaller prunings every few years then heavy prunings less often. We have also found that the varieties of trees we grow here in Oregon like to be pruned because it promotes growth higher in the trees where the branches have better sunlight.
If you have a good main tree then you can cut off the suckers. Otherwise I would keep the best straight sucker and trim the other suckers off. Hazelnuts like to grow as a bush so you will have to either cut or spray the suckers each year.
Great. Wouldve loved more of the closer shots of the cutting.
If you have questions about the cuts I would be glad to try and answer them. When you cut off a branch you just have to be mindful that the branch will die back from where you cut it so you want to leave a small length (~1/4") so it doesn't die back into the main wood. This will allow the cuts to heal properly.
Very informative thank you :)
Glad you liked it!
Salem and haselnut magic.
Hi. We have so many hazelnuts genetics but I never seen like that! I would like to try this genetics in my own garden.
Ordu/Turkey.
Here in Oregon we used to just have two main varieties: Barcelona and Ennis. After the Eastern Filbert Blight severely damaged those varieties the local university here (OSU) helped develop many new varieties that are blight resistant…but not immune. Jefferson is a good larger nut with an upright growing tree but we also have McDonald, Polly-O, Yamhill, Wepster, Dorris and several others to choose from.
@@jeffchapin7248 We grow hazelnuts with more than one root in Turkey.
'yağlı fındık, 'palaz fındık' and the most famous of the western Black Sea is 'delisava fındık'.
Thank you very much for your valuable information.
I can bring the mentioned variety to Turkey for experimental purposes.
Is there a reliable seller for this?
@@banadokunma Niyetiniz hoş fakat lütfen ama lütfen yurdışından alınan filizler için karantina politikalarına dikkat edin. Son 15 yıldaki fall webworm ve powdery mildew strainlerininin yayılışına bakılınca buna benzer bir inoculum olduğunu tahmin ediyorum. Anisogramma anomala yani adamın bahsettiği EFB bir karantina patojeni, türkiyeye girmesi halinde çözüm bulmak çok zor. Bu tür çiftçilerden kargoyla almayın aldırmayın, gümrükte gözden kaçması halinde EFB olmayan bahçelere EFB bulaştırma ihtimaliniz var. Adana'daki citrus yetiştiricilerininde farkındalığı arttı citrus greening phytoplasma tehditini gördükten sonra. Karadeniz fındığı içinde EFB olayı olmasın.
Thanks very much for your explanation. When is the best time of year to prune?
Here in Oregon I like to prune mid to late winter, before they break bud (Jan to end of February). For Oregon with all of the rain we get if you prune early winter then you need to spray for bacteria blight (copper). If you prune late winter after most of the rains then sometimes you can get by without having bacteria blight issues. It also depends on how many cuts you are making if you need to do the bacterial blight spray…if you are only taking off 5-7 small branches then I probably would not spray for bacteria blight. If you are making a lot of open wounds on the tree then I would definitely spray.
@@jeffchapin7248 I appreciate your comprehensive explanation. Our small farm (22 acres) is located in regional Victoria, Australia. We have a temperate climate and it will make sense to wait until the end of winter, very early Spring. We have less than 1000 trees, so I'm trying to decide on a bush (with regular pruning) or a standard tree as you have shown in your video. We are unlikely to use machines, do you have any views?
Very interesting, thanks. I just bought some land in Italy. It used to be an orchard maybe one generation ago. Still legally recorded as an orchard. It goes down to a channel with some water all year long. Now many oaks has grown making it into a sort of young oak woodland. But near the channel (which looks like a small stream, but it is legally a channel, big difference over what you can do around it) I found several hazelnut plants. I don't know the variety but probably the european variety would be a good guess. I have no words to describe the size of those hazelnuts, they are beyond huge. Maybe 6 to 9 meters. The size of the vertical trunks are bigger than my leg. And of course I cannot reach nearly anything about it. With a drone I made some recognition around it and they stand way beyond all other canopy. I also don't know how many of those plants are there as they follow the channel, in what seem to be like two lines on my side of the channel. Until eventually the woods gets so thick I haven't managed to enter yet. How do I deal with it? In theory I would like to bring them back into production while keeping as much as possible the feeling of wilderness there. Do you think you could help me on this?
I would be glad to help out. Can you take some pictures of the trees so I can see what we are dealing with. My phone number is at the end of the video if you want to text me some pictures.
@@emmanuelorchardspathwayfam3646 thanks. Right now I am far away with my family. I shall be back in Septembre and then I will send you the pictures :-). Many thanks again, best regards, Pietro
Possibly Turkish Tree Hazels?
Can you train just about any hazelnut into a tree? Or should some be left as bushes? I have some young beaked hazelnut seedlings growing and is it also possible to train them? Or would wild genetics make it hard to do so? Main concerns are weak leaders and excessive suckering.
Hazelnuts naturally grow as a bush. For commercial agriculture we train them into trees so we can easily harvest/fertilize/control weeds/suckers/etc. However all of the varieties we have here in Oregon can be trained into trees. If you are starting with a bush I would suggest not allowing new suckers to grow and trimming off some of the larger suckers each year until you get back to one trunk. If you try to take all of the suckers off at once you could kill the bush from all of the open wounds. Hazelnuts do like to be pruned and even as a tree we try to prune them every 3 to 5 years to promote new growth up top.
Hi and thanks for this video. Are these trees on a Turkish hazel root, to make it tree like, or do you cut off all suckers? How tall do they grow like this? Thanks
We have our orchards in Salem, Oregon and have several varieties that we manage (Ennis, Barcelona, Jefferson, McDonald, Lewis, etc.) however I believe none of these varieties are using the Turkish root stock. All of our varieties would prefer to grow as bushes but we prune them to be trees so our harvest equipment can work well in the orchards. We manage the suckers by both spraying them and cutting them off. We typically do 3-5 spray applications from spring to late summer and then in late fall or winter, after we harvest, we cut off the suckers so there is just one trunk. Each variety varies in terms of size but the trees grow anywhere from about 20' to 35' tall once they are fully mature.
Hello! Please advise a novice gardener, which variety of nut is better to start? I plan about 20 acres first. I want to form a tree and not a bush. Which variety would you recommend Jefferson or Pollyo? I understand that the fruits are different and are intended for different markets. What planting scheme do you use? Thanks in advance!
There are a lot of different factors to determine what variety is best for your specific farm. Where do you live at? What soil type do you have? If you prefer to call and talk first text me and then I can add you to my contacts so you can call me. My number is (503) 508-1869 and I am in the Pacific time zone.
Where are you located? The reason I ask is I am not sure a tree form is best where I am located. Some recommend a bush form. Thank you!
We are located in Salem, Oregon. If you hand pick and are not using harvest equipment then I can see why some people would recommend a bush form. However if you harvest your hazelnuts with equipment then we have found it is much easier to sweep/pick them if they are trained as trees rather than bushes. We do harvest some of our orchards as bushes but we lose some of the nuts at the base of the bushes and it is hard on the harvest equipment with the lower branches.
I'm in Tennessee, I'm training all mine to be trees, easier to mow and harder for critter's to get to the nuts.
Also probably easier to find on the ground if they drop.
@@jasonbourne1596 I should mention I am in central Ontario Canada. I have a friend who trained them into trees. One year the raccoons came in and tore down the branches. The other problem where I am with trees is the rabbits and voles chew the stems. With bushes they have trouble girdling all the shoots. I don't have to use winter protectors. It really depends on what works where a person is. Oh yes! With the heavy squirrel population here nuts never fall on the ground. In fact I have to pick them when still a bit green and let them ripen safely away from the bushes.
@@jeffchapin7248 You live in the real hazel country. I could only dream. Great video.
Do you prune differently for Yamhill? (If this is a variety you cultivate..... thanks!)
Yamhill trees like to grow sideways so they are a little tricky to get to prune. They like to bear heavy but they are a pain to get to grow upwards. I know of a farmer who grows a lot of Yamhill that has cutters he mounts on hit tractor to cut off the sideways growing branches to allow room for his sweeper and picker to make it through the orchard. I would still cut off crossing branches, any branches growing straight down and try to aim for 5-7 main scaffolding branches.
@@emmanuelorchardspathwayfam3646 Thank you for the reply- sure is helpful information for curious new growers weighing their options as to orchard planning!
@@paulinekotlarz1172 If you a planning a new orchard then I would look at the latest released variety from OSU, called Polly-O. It is supposed to have similar yield as the Yamhill but be more of an upright tree for easier pruning and shaping. If you need more info on any of the varieties just let me know. If you are local to Oregon then we also sell all of the varieties and I can show you our layering bed trees.
@@emmanuelorchardspathwayfam3646 I'm actually up in BC, Canada, though not in the Fraser Valley area as everyone always assumes, haha. My climate is colder/longer than coastal weather and hazelnuts will grow here but I have to be cognizant of cold hardiness and pollinator seasons to a greater extent. Polly O seems a great variety for marketability, I have more reading to do....thank you.
Could hazelnut trees be grown as spindle trees and still produce well, for a small garden?
I’m not familiar with the term spindle tree but hazelnuts do prefer to grow as a bush and can be grown this way in a small garden. For farm growing we prune them into a tree since they are easier to pick. Let me know if this answers your question. Thanks
How important from your point of view are the terms of pruning? If done during warm season does it contribute to more illnesses (if you ever noticed)? Thank you.
If possible, pruning should be done when the tree is dormant. Ideally you would prune just before bud break in the late winter or early spring. If you prune in the summer then you are cutting off branches with leaves on them which provide energy (solar power) to the tree that puts stress on the tree. If we prune here in early winter then we have to be careful of bacterial blight entering the tree so we power-blast copper on the trees to help prevent that. The more open wounds on the tree the more likely to get bacterial blight so it is best to do smaller prunings every few years then heavy prunings less often. We have also found that the varieties of trees we grow here in Oregon like to be pruned because it promotes growth higher in the trees where the branches have better sunlight.
@@emmanuelorchardspathwayfam3646 thank you for sharing this fantastic information. To healthy trees!
Mine are like bushes with sucker coming up out of the ground.
If you have a good main tree then you can cut off the suckers. Otherwise I would keep the best straight sucker and trim the other suckers off. Hazelnuts like to grow as a bush so you will have to either cut or spray the suckers each year.
What is your distance between trees?
We plant on a 17 x 17 foot spacing
@@jeffchapin7248 Thank you very much.