Building a Soundproof Garden Room - Permitted Development & Soundproofing Basics (part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2024
- I’m building a garden office / studio space and it needs to be more or less soundproof. I struggled to find many videos on TH-cam about this so thought I’d make a new mini-series about my approach to this. Today it’s time for the nerdy overview of what I’m doing and why. I’m covering the following topics:
0:00 Introduction
1:06 Location and size overview
4:19 Requirements and brief
8:07 Permitted development rules
9:40 Soundproofing detail
23:11 Final building height
Part 1 (intro and roof structure): • Building a Soundproof ...
UK permitted development rules: www.planningportal.co.uk/info...
Building regs for outbuildings: www.planningportal.co.uk/info...
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#GardenRoom #Soundproof #Studio - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
So much info in one video.
Thank you for taking the time to share all this.
Can't wait to see it finished, it's going to look amazing. Hope the sound proofing is a success!
Hi Andy, so much detail and thought has gone into this project, well done. I do hope it works for you. Western Red Cedar for the cladding. After all, you'll end up looking at it from your bi-fold doors.
Can’t wait for part 3 !!
Excellent video
Very interesting video indeed. As you say very complex and each to the own. I agree with Charlie DIY the very best of luck. I love your channel and find you a constant feed of interesting information!!!
Hi Andy. I’ve been involved a little bit with similar projects in the past and watched with interest. As I watched you ticked off most areas that I find people get wrong. 👍 I have three comments. 1 consider using glass of a different thickness on the internal layer. Different thickness - different resonance - less transfer. 2. Quality door sealing shutters on the bottom of the door or even a dust stop at the bottom with a seal, although that creates a tripping hazard. Finally, 3. the one I’m most interested in seeing what you do, the ventilation. You need to establish what volume of air you need to transfer, I guess with energetic drumming it might be quite a lot. The zig zag attenuators seem to be the best approach but can’t wait to see what you do. Cheers from Melbourne Australia, great project.
Nice Job Andy. I know I'm too late to give you advice, but other viewers may be interested in this. There is no need to have the DPC at the same level internally and externally. The external DPC could be a course higher than the inside. That would give you a lower floor level yet still have 150 above DPC externally. Not forgetting that a cavity tray would be required.
Amazing level of thought and preparation!
Great stuff....
Cheers Martin! 👍
I know this video is nearly a year old but I must say this was an awesome nerdy video Andy. Being a musician of some 45yrs+ I think you've got some good ideas for you studio/drum room. I haven't seen the results yet but it sound like you've obviously done your homework (I got a BTEC National Diploma in popular music production including modules on studio design etc.) so I understand what you are talking about. I'm looking forward to the end results 👍👍👍.
Brilliant video Andy, thanks !
Great videos Andy, so helpful. I'm just buying a property in West Denton which will need stripping back to basics as well as likely adding an extension. Needless to say your videos are invaluable. Keep up the good work sir.
Excellent work and thanks for sharing this with us take care
Great Vlog and a lot of informative detail, sounds like you have done your home work and well done so far Andy. will look awesome when finished and completed by a great craftsman. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Thank you Neil! 👍👍
Thanks for this knowledge sharing, I'm a drummer too, planning a 30m2 garden studio and BC have said it'll need to be block work as inside 1m from boundary fence. Lots of helpful guidance here. I look forward to seeing more :)
Good grief Andy, how do you find the time to put that video together. SO MUCH work! I'm SO pleased you've gone down the "yes this is a cold roof and so it needs ventilating" line. And also I think you're very wise not putting ceiling spots in. Two big mistakes skillfully avoided. Looking forward to seeing the build progress. I have one up my sleeve but something for next year at the very earliest. Good luck with it, mate 👊🏻
Cheers Charlie! 👍 These last two have been mammoth edits and I had to script it all too - too much to remember! 🤣👍🛠️
@@GosforthHandyman I've managed to get spots in my sound room by building a bulkhead around the perimeter. This way there's no penetrations in the engineered ceiling.
Great work Andy, looking nice
Cheers, getting there!
Great Vid! Great build! I’m planning my studio as we speak and this has helped massively. I’m planning to use Cob walls as I’m an earth builder.
Well done on a comprehensive guide. Your build is one of many ways to soundproof and they are all valid. I have a suggestion for the ventilation, if you are allowed the extra external build. Use a trickle vent fan with silencers and acoustic hose all fixed on the river side/window wall and build weather proof cupboard to hide it. The inlet and exhaust vent cowls can go through the wall to one side of the window.
Yes, you certainly know your building regulations. Great job so far.
As a ex drummer I think you are doing the right things keep up the great work
I'll be thrilled to see the results from this series. I'm curious as to how well the dense concrete construction works to block the low frequencies, seen a lot of those timber room with a room designs and they seem fine for airborne noise but really do very little for the low end that a drum kit produces.
Thanks. Really informative Andy.
Your build looks very similar to how the new engine test cells were constructed at Rolls-Royce Distributed Generation Systems. I was contracted by RR to look after their side of the project, specify the test equipment and make sure the main Contractor delivered to spec. The acoustics side of the job was handled by a company called Envirosound and they did an amazing job. You could barely hear the 1000 HP Napier Deltic engine running at full bore on test when standing outside the building. That included all the exhaust noise and the cooling air noise.
The windows between the engine test cell and the control room were two layers of acoustic, laminated glass, not parallel (as you said) with about 150mm air gap. The edges of the window unit had sound absorbing material to damp any reverberation between the top and bottom and side frames as these had to be parallel.
Our roof panel for the test cell was simpler: it was a 150mm ribdeck concrete slab with all of the exhaust and air handling plant on it. The whole lot was enclosed in a steel frame building clad with Kingspan
insulated panels. We had sound absorbing panels from about 3 meters above floor level and all across the ceiling to kill reverberation. Couldn't have them down to floor level because of the risk of soaking them with oil or other fluids and the difficulty of cleaning them.
Cheers Andy - PD explanation was spot on; concise & comprehensive! Regs differ slightly up here in Scotland...I think we get it a little easier!
Interesting! Yeah, the PD regs are a challenge. With it was 2.7m for the height then I could probably have made a warm roof and not worried about ventilation. 👍
Whatever finish on the extension you go for match it on the out building. Look forward to seeing the progress on the house 👍🏻
Hi Andy, if you had told me you did not want square walls in your building I could have suggested several builders that could not build a straight wall if it was only one brick high. I love your reason for the outer door size, I think I had the same builder as you because I do have all the problems, the difference is yours is only one room as mine was a whole house
For the cladding have a look at Thermowood - it's softwood that has been "baked" under controlled conditions and, according to the timber merchant. will outlast red cedar by some margin - and it's only about 30% of the cost of red cedar (or less) It's available in various profiles and as PAR for corners, trims etc. I've just clad an external retaining wall in my garden (blockwork, softwood battens, Thermowood . .. very easy to work with (stainless steel Spax screws, not nails) and looks great. If left as is it will fade to silver/grey or can be treated with a stain to retain the original colour which is very similar to red cedar. [I bought mine from Vincents Timber in Birmingham -- website has pix, details and specs - doubtless a merchant near you will stock it]
The perfect solution is the solution that meets your personal requirements, not the requirements of someone else.
Absolutely 👍
Fantastic mate, I am a drummer too but I don't have much DIY skills at all! So your lucky to have them this is my dream to build a soundproof studio in my Garden so I can drum all day long 😆!
All looks good to me. PD and BRegs advice spot on. Conservation areas are slightly different but not enough to get excited about. Good luck with it.
Cheers Neil! 👍
Fantastic, quality video..thankyou.👍🏻
LOVE IT! I just made a video on soundproofing and you check all the boxes:
Decoupling - check
Add mass - check
Sound leakage - check
Absorption - check
Do a follow up video with readings! Curious what your STC rating will be.
Top job mate! I’m same, qualified studio engineer, then 20 years in live market. You’ve covered everything I could think of AND THEN SOME!
In terms of ventilation, ignoring cost, would an external mvhr fit your bill? Obviously larger the ducting the quieter the unit would be through minimising air velocity. Don’t envy you on that side of things. Hardest job keeping studio space at comfy temp, whilst not bleeding sound out (or in).
Cedral cladding all day long Andy - it’s excellent stuff and the additional mass can’t hurt the soundproof quality of the building either. It paints really well too, so no need to be constrained by the colours on offer either. It dulls drills in no time, so be prepared to sharpen them - and get a good diamond tipped blade for your chop saw. I’ve used it twice now having previously typically used shiplap and as it’s so regular you end up with a very sleek finish. The install guides on the Cedral website are great too, very comprehensive. I have some left over insect mesh and other fittings that I’d happily donate to your project if you go down this route.
Yeah - looks good. Watch this space! 👍
Planning to have a smiliar music studio in our garden so this has been really useful. 😎
I personally would cald this in the same style as the main house. Interesting Video, considering i have no knowledge (nor real interest before, lbr 😅) of soundproving or construction of...well, anything, really.
But i'm looking forward to seeing your journey with this house and especially the awesome garden. I would have loved this big space to play in as a kid. And a freaking river as well! That's the dream 😁
Cheers! Yeah, matching the house would look good. 👍
That was brilliant, Andy. Once again, As my French daughter in law taught me: I go to bed less stupid 🌞
I 100% would go for red cedar personally i just think it is soooo stunning
I would consider doing away with the lobby and having a double door at the entrance. The outer one opening out and the inner one opening in. These could be hung in two separate frames similar to your window frames. Fit acoustic seals all around and a drop seal at the bottom. This would also gain back some floor space. When I built my small garden studio I used solid core door blanks and screwed 18mm MDf to the face with Techsound between. I used temporary screws at first until it was painted and then replaced them with flat capped mirror screws. Looked really smart. Heavy doors is what you need. By the way, that Techsound stuff is very heavy. Looking forward to the progress.
There's no lobby as such on the final plan 👍
Only thing I'd do different here, is I would fit a vapour barrier between the plasterboard and the insulation. It can only help protect the roof and theres no downsides to it really, very cheap to do. I think you will end up adding the secondary glazing, tripple glazing doesn't do much for kick drums. But no issues as you've already allowed for it. Top job all round I'd say. Maybe consider using 'plaster in' led profile for the illumination. since you arn't having ceiling spots. Since you are having two layers of board for the ceiling, you could fit the proflie in just your lower layer which would have no impact in overall sound proofing.
So much for you to take into consideration! As for the cladding, I think that availability might be the final judge. I’m a big fan of the cedar, but I guess you’ll be guided by the the aforementioned variables in the end. Great explanations, Andy. I even managed to keep up🙏🏻
Cheers! Yeah, it might largely come down to what's actually available as even the basics are going out of stock at the mo. 😬
Brown pebble dash, lovely
@@GosforthHandyman how about high quality cedar paint as now a days market so full of different pruduct. It will b cheaper but the same outcome if u can't get original, fake it😁
I'm so glad I found your channel. Not only do you have a house which reminds me a lot of ours (it's is smaller, but same era!). It's warm and dry but it's small for practising in .. and this garden Room is EXACTLY what I want to do in our garden! Do you have a figure for how much this cost you to build?
Signed
A clarinettist/sax player
Great video mate, cheers
Cheers Jack! 👍
@@GosforthHandyman nw!
Wow - this is brilliant! - I wish I had a video like this to glean ideas off before I embarked on soundproofing my garage for a drum room approx 10 years ago. - I was interested to see that you went ahead with the wall-ties - which was always a question in my mind how you would get around that for a double wall construction. I've never really understood why they are necessary, as my single skin garage does not have wall ties and has not fallen down (yet!). I've never really understood why building a second wall next to the first suddenly makes them both want to fall down, so they need to be tied together with wall ties (but then again I'm not a builder)... Also I didn't realise it was possible to build a construction under permitted development closer than 1m to the boundary, so now it makes me think I may be able to build a bigger drum room at the end of my garden...
Triple Glazing is less efficient than Double Glazing for sound deadening; the middle pane will transfer vibrations between panes either side. Use Double Glazed with a secondary panel further away from the window panels (decoupled as you mention).
Wow, great overview. Has given me some good ideas. I am building a soundproofed room within a shed and with regards to ventilation I made the decision not to provide an opening which could impact the soundproofing. I made this decision after calculating how long the room would provide breathable air while sealed off - surprisingly long. My plan is to keep the door open when not in use and I have a wheeled air conditioner that I can place in front of the door prior to use. Might not be viable in your case, but possible for you to have an opening that you can close off when using the room?
Just done a load of cladding using cedral click, very good if you don't want the maintenance u get with timber but is quite pricey and cutting it is a pain as u either need specialist blades which kick up a lot of dust or a guillotine which costs around 250 quid
I recently finished building my workshop and it’s clad with composite board (Hardin board). Not only does it look really nice, it’s maintenance free and as an added bonus seems to be really good to help reduce noise escaping from my loud workshop.
I can't find it - do you have a link? (the Hardin board)
@@GosforthHandyman I guess he meant Hardie composite board such as HardiePlank from JamesHardie. It can be bought prepainted or paint-yourself. Maintenance free and popular in the USA.
Hi we had our double glazed upvc windows replaced with 4mm and 6mm double glazed gas filled upvc windows with the 4mm glass to the inside and it really removed most of the traffic noise from our home. I was amazed at how much it worked.
Also have you considered putting a ventilation strip at the top of one door and the base of the other door?
Awesome!
Andy, as a qualified acoustic consultant (I just had to 😃), I wouldn’t worry about going over the top with sound proofing.
This is an outbuilding, located a significant distance from your neighbours. It’s likely they will be able to hear you in their garden, but inside with windows close I doubt they will hear anything.
Also to add, be careful with triple glazing as that can make sound transfer worse. Ideally you want 2 different thickness panels with a good air gap, also laminated glass works well as it’s another layer of a different thickness.
This is a great excuse to study the architecture of historical auditoriums and theatres etc
Do the neighbours mind you putting those numbered lines in their garden?
They're fine with it 🤣🤣
Interesting. I want to build a workshop in our garden, you’re giving some good tips. Our permitted development regs in the Netherlands are similar. I believe I have 3m height though, so a bit more to work with. I would really like a green roof. Luckily we have a deep garden, 16x6m. That’s deep for new development.
3m would make such a difference. 2.5m presents a lot of challenges! 👍
For info - permitted development rules in Scotland are different to those in England and Wales. Not drastically but the main differences are the space to the boundary and the heights we can follow - building regs are generally the same
Good info Thanks
If sea level gets to where you are, you’ll see me floating past on my sofa seeing as I live downstream and downhill from you. I’ll be sure to give you a wave as I do 😂
Hi bud, the red Cedar would look the nicest but with our weather it might take a bit of looking after, there are some great looking Upvc cladding options but they can be a bit pricey especially when it comes to colours (going from white or cream to a colour at least doubles the price, I used to sell it ) as long as it's done correctly render can look really nice and you have the option of changing the colour whenever your lass decides lol!!
Yup - tempted with Cedar but it's proving hard to get hold of! 😁😬
With external dimensions of 5m x 3.5, you could be comfortably under the 15m2 flooring area internally, which would mean it would not need to be substantially non-combustable material. Please do correct me if I'm wrong. Top series, only problem I have with it is I found it too early, and can't binge the full thing in one go.
I am not sure if edging was applied between the slab and wall . But is is useful at limiting the transmission of impact sound from the floor to the walls it creates a floating slab.
This is exactly the same as the room I'm building at the moment. I too went for insulated cavity walls and a cold roof system. I don't have the double doorway though. I'm waiting for the window and door to be constructed at the moment and will progress on from there. The resemblance of mine to yours is pretty striking, it's almost identical apart from the double doorway and yes, like you, the builders made my doorway the wrong size and I need a custom door built which is happening as I write. It's a composite door which is cost £800 DOH!!!
One thing, I WAS going to go with a vapour barrier as it just safegaurds against any condensation above in the roof, just in case there was a problem with the airflow and also, would give slightly more soundproofing in my opinion.
The exterior cladding is a tough one for me. I was going to use PVC cladding on wooden batons with insulation inbetween but the PVC cladding is hugely expensive so I'm toying with the option of reclaimed wood.
I hope you made a TH-cam vid 🙂
@@ourclarioncall Certainly have:
th-cam.com/video/vQp6UL7pD9Y/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/NVITlrI5IQY/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/-YkdZoaeJq4/w-d-xo.html
Fantastic detail - thanks!! Is the 1m distance from the boundary measured from the edge of the roof or from the wall? Thanks again for sharing so much. Its a bit like having the best big brother in the world.....
How do you measure the drop in the garden elevation?
Sorry it's a bit late now but if anyone is doing something similar you can always have some of the inner skin blocks sticking out to avoid the flat wall syndrome. also don't skim the walls the bare blocks absorb sound better.
Thanks for that. 1 question - How will the heating/cpooling be affected if just bare bricks/blocks are kept?
My favorite place in the world is the room at the hospital in the audiology dept. Had to go a few times over the years and always enjoy the peace and quiet!You walk in and sound is completely dead and doesn't carry. Maybe there is elements from these that you could implement in your build.
What about using wool fibreglass in the base drum 😉. Great vid btw. Seriously, thanx man for all that work!!!
You're an experience builder and experienced drum player, you've done thorough research in soundproofing, and you're familiar with all the materials, so if anyone says you're doing it wrong I hope you will tell them to do something that is anatomically very difficult. Nicely, of course. This will be a structure that can survive an atomic attack, and indeed, you won't even hear it if it happens.
Ha ha, cheers Bob! 👍
Glad I don't need soundproofing on mine. With a dropped floor having to paint the inside of the blocks with black jack is fun - doing 2nd coat tomorrow. The sides you don't want so visible from the house, you might want to paint black and with foliage, it'll turn invisible.
Yup, still in 2 minds what to do about the back. Quite like the metal cladding Liam uses on Oakwood Garden Rooms. 👍😁
Would a room like that suffer from any condensation in cold conditions with limited ventilation?
It's an awesome design of course, and can't wait for you to finish it.
You could achieve ventilation using baffled trunking at high and low level within the window opening, would avoid breaking through blockwork. I recall, a few years ago, utilising a similar system used to get required ventilation from and airflow into a semi basement boiler room, via a small basement clerestory window, just a thought.
Interesting - cheers! Will have a look in to it! 👍
For soundporoof ventilation you need to build a plenum, which is an acoustic labrynth full or absorbtion that forces the air around multiple right angles, if you don't do this the sound easily travels down the ducting! You can put them on the inside or outside or both but they have to be large enough to deal with low speed high volume airflow (so you don't get wind noise). I've got a calculator or two that can help figure out the size of the ducting and fan you need. You start by deciding how much air you need to ventilate (people using room etc) and work back from there. Worst thing for recording is a ventilation system that sounds like constant noise!
@@bukarin very interesting
If you wanted non parallel walls you could have used the builders that put up my house. ;-) great video mate another subscriber.
Do you leave a trail of soundproof rooms across Newcastle? :-)
Very nice. I love it. Did you need a building permit?
With all the sealing and insulation how are you going to get fresh air into the room?
It's a good thing Dewley Hill mine was refused or you might have had an issue with the river height/water quality!
👍
Andy, how about some shou sugi ban torched siberian larch for the external finish….. 🔥
Might be worth putting in lintels for a window in the long wall facing the garden if you think you may want to convert it or if you think it will be a selling point when you come to sell it.
Am I the only one who thinks this is a massive job for potentially tiny theoretical benefit at some unspecified time in the future - given that the room is actually built...?!
I often come away from these comments on TH-cam thinking that I'm much more chilled about life than lots of people - and I'm very thankful......!!
@@andymccabe6712 almost definitely not the only person who thinks it as it's quite a binary choice. There is some subtly to it but it's a pretty much you would or wouldn't. I definitely took in to account the quality of the work done by the special builders when considering it.
Very comprehensive Andy and well done.👍 Have you not considered a quality render and painting the exterior (cheaper?).
Cheers Norman! Yes, still might be an option. If it's render it would need to match the house. 👍
Hello mate first time commenter, I've just insulated my single skin double garage with vented roof, it's a workshop but I'm also a drummer and I like valve amps.. I used 75mm rockwool between the rafters over 12mm plasterboard, 25mm airgap between the walls and 3x2 stud walls and 75mm rockwool between the studs, 25mm celotex and 18mm ply to clad over the walls (yeah I had complaints at my old place). Floating floor with 18mm chip and 25mm celotex. Used my 100db extractor as a testbed - when I first moved there it registered 80db 1m from the other side of the wall, now it's not audible, my db app doesn't pick it up so I'm confident I could play drums in there, I use power tools at all hours and my neighbours say they can't hear it. My roof is a pavilion so easier to keep quiet than yours but I reckon if you can squeeze a bit of an air gap and a good 50mm of rockwool you will be alright - your studio looks to be a good way from the neighbours, my garage is 3m corner to corner with the neighbours. What I did was pricey but it's quiet and warm, I'm building guitars and controlling temp and humidity so anything I can do is going to save in the long run. Filmed it all so I'll upload a video at some point.
Cheers
Ash
Fantastic stuff Ash - looking forward to seeing the vid! 👍🤘
Very interesting my friend
I am thinking about creating a similar soundproof space where I can do guitar teaching work, play drums, crank up loud valve amps, record, use power tools etc etc. Man cave worship recording studio type thing
I would love to see your videos
I also want to do guitar building and luthier work
@@ourclarioncall that sounds like it needs to be a big man cave!
@@ADFinlayson I think it would be a man “cavern” 🙂
Ventilation; You should have let the builder set your floor level higher so you could use dampcourse vents, then build the baffle boxes under the floor inside the building.
Window: All three glass thicknesses should be different, use helium as infill gas. Consider top and bottom access for the helium to top up or dry later. If helium is used then size of air gap can be very small.
Great video. What CAD software are you using for your drawings? 👍
This is the most comprehensive sex dungeon video on TH-cam. Great work Andy.
That was a brilliant insight into your thinking, planning and execution of the project. The user requirements were clearly stated. The technical risks were outlined together with remedial actions if necessary. Well done. Very professional.
The most confusing thing about permitted development is the "height above ground level". What does that mean? Where is it measured from and to? I think you said from the highest part of the land on which the structure is built. Well, is that immediately adjacent to the building or the highest part of the land which you own? And what is the highest part of the building? Your graphic seemed to me to indicate the lowest part of the roof or rafters! Is that right or did I misunderstand?
How are you planning to determine if you requirements are met? When it comes to sound insulation you can only measure the difference between inside and out. It's all relative. I guess the bottom line is whether you get complaints from your neighbours...
I don't think you need a "qualified electrician" to hook things up. I understand from the regulations that you need a "competent" person to do the installation of the electricals. I also understand that you need someone authorised/certified to sign the installation off.
You talked about ventilation but did not mention heating or cooling. I imagine in the winter that heating will be a requirement but I guess electric fan heaters will be fine. In the summer, however, cooling may be a necessity! I assume you hav given this some thought and wonder what your solutions are?
Cheers Charles! From my understanding it's from the highest bit of ground on the original footprint of the building. So I *think* you could technically dig down and build a higher structure. The 2.5m rule is to the absolute top of the roof but it's different rules if you're more than 2m from the boundary - then it's 2.5m to the eaves and up to 4m to the top of the roof.
Yeah, I think most sparks don't like signing off other people's work. Since everyone seems to be booked up forever I may just do it myself through a building notice. We shall see.
Heating / cooling - due to the thermal mass and insulation I'm hoping a small electric heater will do and as the window is on the shady side it shouldn't heat up like a greenhouse in the summer... hopefully. 😁👍
@@GosforthHandyman Yea, I know sparks don't like signing off other people's work. Their attitude has changed over the years. When I first did electrical wiring in the 70's it wasn't a problem. I had to get a friend to do it more recently (about 20 years ago I think). Now they interpret the reg's to suit themselves! I am not certified but have a degree in electrical and electronic engineering so I am a "competent" person. Hey Ho!
Andy, I'm thinking it's worth the extra work now to add the soffit sound proofing while it's still accessible.
I hate going back to do something I should have done in the first place.
It'll be relatively easy to add later. I'll screw the soffits in so they're easily removed. 👍
What program did you use to create that 3d diagram?
What's the cad system used for the drawing? Nice.
great build Andy! I'm planning something similar and your videos are really useful! What software did you use to CAD your build up? can you cost/benefit your decisions in your updatee videos?
Looks like sketchup to me. You can download a free version of sketchup. Not sure how the premium version compares but the free one should be sufficient.
Hey Andy, Just wondered if you can recommend a free CAD program? I need to design a workshop/storage building.
WHAT software do you use to cad your building I need it to show to my misses since her imagination is not top notch and it can be hard to explain things..
You could add heat treated timber cladding to your finish options.
Will look in to it! 👍
Is there further progress videos on this project?
Did you consider block and beam for the roof? May have lost too much headroom with the height limitations.
Recently done similar ceiling in my garage, used 2mm MLV from Advanced Acoustics between soundbloc layers and next to joists, couldn’t find enough to convince me Tecsound was any better. Wish I’d used isolation clips too, suspect it’ll be the weakest point.
Yeah, I think for block & beam to be effective it would need screeded over to seal up all the air gaps... and height might be an issue. 👍
I think that red cedar will look great
Yup, I do like the Cedar. 👍
Hi Andy, did you have to get a part P registered electrician to do the electrics?
Now I'm thinking about Colin Furze's under ground bunker.
Ha ha, now *that's* the perfect solution. 👍😁
Nooice!
👍👍
Agree with everything you said......🙄
I liked the clean white exterior.
Yeah, think it looks good especially surrounded by plants etc. 👍
Did you think of putting a large lintel on the door in the case you convert to sun room?
No, but it's easily do-able at a later date. 👍
Have you considered DoDo mat as a sound deadener, they also do a sound/ insulation mat ?
Possibly! Will address acoustic treatment later down the line. 👍