Rather to have problems with seam hiding and 2-wall regular print, I'd go with vase mode and 0.8mm wall thickness - even with the standard 0.4mm nozzle. Did that multiple times, no problem whatsoever.
3D printing can be so powerful when you have full control over the slicer, utilizing the full potential of the specific manufacturing technology that's in use.
One frustrating thing for creators would be understanding the materials. Looking at your site, the Material Data Sheets do not all contain the same information (some have more detailed Thermal sections for example). How else do you communicate with creators wanting to use your services which material would be best for this application (for example)? It's important that the creators be able to explain the limitations of the product to the customer. Some people may assume that these parts can be left outside, in Arizona, and then find out the product starts warping. I'm very surprised you do not have a forum for answering frequent questions and for people to help each other.
That one you were holding in most of our video was darker on the top half and it occurred to me that you could actually make plastic tubes inside to guide the light to the top parts. It wouldn't be a vase mode anymore though but it might have an interesting look.
It would really be great if you made available the clear PLA that you sold in the beginning rounds of Tangled. I bought some and have some great lamp ideas that would work really well with it. Yes, white would work but it does not give the same frosted look.
I've done some fun things with transparent pla for lamps. Some day i need to have another go at the rear bike mudguard with a channel for red led strips i never quite got working.
What about the legality of making and selling a lamp? What certifications would one need (Assuming they are using third party fixtures and just creating the shade and base)? Thanks!!
I wonder if you need to do anything else as long as the puck has all the required certifications? Similar to how you install certified lights under kitchen cabinets.
Teleport! We throw it in the box with the print when we ship it to a customer for you. But you can also get it here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NJKTSZ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
why would vase mode be weaker, you can just increase the wall thicknes to 1-1.5mm. if only you could change slicer settings, right? also only having option to print two 0.4mm walls is extremely limiting in general. 5:39 artefacting in z direction is because your printers have poor layer stacking, on quality modern printers that is a non issue. you are asking customers to design around the flaws of your machines.
No. It is an artifact from print shrinkage going from a thin wall to thick wall with infill. (in this case from a 1mm to a >10mm thickness from the internal chamfer being discussed) It is is completely independent of the printer which is why it is is important to design for the process and not to the machine or the settings.
Meh, i would prefer a option in teleport named "lamp" or "Vase" There is not god way of making a light what has no visible seam and no texture other than the layers, except from vase mode. I would assume that the farm runs 0.4mm nozzles so a print of 0.6mm line with for a vase mode should be just fine, and its plenty strong in my testing.
Scarf seem has been added to Prusa fairly recently. It’s not a silver bullet, but it can reduce the visibility of a seam when no other option is available.
@@slant3d It's more about the esthetics of the part, and slicer settings inherently have a significant effect here. As well as the maintenance and condition of the printer, printing temperatures, drafts in case there's no enclosure, the type and quality of the filament, etc...
This video has been highly illuminating. As a moth, I am very drawn to this subject.
We'll keep a light on for you for the next time
Vertical stripes are a really popular way to visually offset layer lines and hide artifacts or seams
Another awesome example
Great idea to enable you adding the "hardware" for the lamp.
You should think about the ability to add so basic screws and nuts too.
Already there too. You can connect teleport to you ecommerce store and have us print and ship the parts right your customer with the prints
Rather to have problems with seam hiding and 2-wall regular print, I'd go with vase mode and 0.8mm wall thickness - even with the standard 0.4mm nozzle. Did that multiple times, no problem whatsoever.
You should never have to rely on slicer settings for a feature of your part
Speaking from experience making lamps, this is a great way to make stronger vase mode prints without an ugly scarf
@@slant3d manufacturer pilled take. Advancing slicer settings to unlock more capabilities is a key to getting truly unique pieces.
3D printing can be so powerful when you have full control over the slicer, utilizing the full potential of the specific manufacturing technology that's in use.
@@slant3d why not? I have control of my slicer options...
Encore une vidéo exceptionnelle et intéressante. Toute votre chaine mérite le détour. Merci pour le partage 👍.
One frustrating thing for creators would be understanding the materials. Looking at your site, the Material Data Sheets do not all contain the same information (some have more detailed Thermal sections for example). How else do you communicate with creators wanting to use your services which material would be best for this application (for example)?
It's important that the creators be able to explain the limitations of the product to the customer. Some people may assume that these parts can be left outside, in Arizona, and then find out the product starts warping.
I'm very surprised you do not have a forum for answering frequent questions and for people to help each other.
We have a discord.
That one you were holding in most of our video was darker on the top half and it occurred to me that you could actually make plastic tubes inside to guide the light to the top parts. It wouldn't be a vase mode anymore though but it might have an interesting look.
That is true. It would create a really interesting look. Though this lamp was fully hollow. the light distribution just fades off
It would really be great if you made available the clear PLA that you sold in the beginning rounds of Tangled. I bought some and have some great lamp ideas that would work really well with it. Yes, white would work but it does not give the same frosted look.
I've done some fun things with transparent pla for lamps. Some day i need to have another go at the rear bike mudguard with a channel for red led strips i never quite got working.
Do you guys have a recommendation for lamp pucks
?
What about the legality of making and selling a lamp? What certifications would one need (Assuming they are using third party fixtures and just creating the shade and base)? Thanks!!
I wonder if you need to do anything else as long as the puck has all the required certifications? Similar to how you install certified lights under kitchen cabinets.
The puck is already lamp, the other stuff is just like a shade, I would think
@ wouldn’t a lamp need certification to be sold to ensure it doesn’t light on fire?
Does your service install the puck into the lamp or do you just put it separately in the package?
We do not assemble. Just the parts in the box
Can someone tell me where to get this type of puck light?
Teleport! We throw it in the box with the print when we ship it to a customer for you. But you can also get it here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NJKTSZ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i have yet to see a lamp that looks bad with a fuzzy skin tbf
Thank you for shining the light on this topic (this pun hasn't been used yet, has it?)
It is illuminating
why would vase mode be weaker, you can just increase the wall thicknes to 1-1.5mm. if only you could change slicer settings, right? also only having option to print two 0.4mm walls is extremely limiting in general.
5:39 artefacting in z direction is because your printers have poor layer stacking, on quality modern printers that is a non issue. you are asking customers to design around the flaws of your machines.
No. It is an artifact from print shrinkage going from a thin wall to thick wall with infill. (in this case from a 1mm to a >10mm thickness from the internal chamfer being discussed) It is is completely independent of the printer which is why it is is important to design for the process and not to the machine or the settings.
Meh, i would prefer a option in teleport named "lamp" or "Vase"
There is not god way of making a light what has no visible seam and no texture other than the layers, except from vase mode.
I would assume that the farm runs 0.4mm nozzles so a print of 0.6mm line with for a vase mode should be just fine, and its plenty strong in my testing.
Are all your lights USB powered? That way you don't have to worry about certifications?
yes
_How to make your seems less seem-ly so they don't seem unseemly_
Scarf seem has been added to Prusa fairly recently. It’s not a silver bullet, but it can reduce the visibility of a seam when no other option is available.
You should never rely on slicer settings for a feature of a part.
@@slant3d Fuzzy skin is a slicer feature you recommend.
@@slant3d It's more about the esthetics of the part, and slicer settings inherently have a significant effect here. As well as the maintenance and condition of the printer, printing temperatures, drafts in case there's no enclosure, the type and quality of the filament, etc...
@@slant3d 🤦♂
@@slant3dbut slicer settings must be relied upon to get nice quality results….
Seams are not a feature anyway. They are an artifact.
I just designed and 3d printed a lamp recently with production in mind. (If it gets there) Check it out and let me know what you think!
Will do. If you want to avoid building a print farm yourself. Just upload it to Teleport we can print and ship it for you
the lamp suddenly appeared out of nowhere is perfect.
Thanks
Lämp
Candle?