THIS is what I need to understand the whole damn process. All other videos are just talking and talking then they did it in a way that only professionals would understand. Thank you for this 3D model. I can now get the whole picture.
I’m in a part of the world where I cant buy these vibration proof items. I’m going to try the same, but by using multiple rubber engine mounts, fixed into the concrete wall using M12 screw anchors. My wooden batons will be bolted to these mounts, then I can apply layers of drywall and MLV/polyurethane glue to this. The cylindrical rubber mounts are 100m deep so will provide a nice big air gap for MLV/Rockwool. I can get the mounts for $5 each and the 16mm drywall and poly glue isn’t too bad either, so shouldn’t be too expensive.👍
Great to see this system is available in the UK now! I soundproofed my living room in 2015 and saw this on a US YT channel, but couldn't source them here. I resorted to Knauf resilient bars, which were an absolute pig to screw acoustic plasterboard into, easily pancaking into the joists with the slightest pressure. With the ReductoClip system, the channels will provide good, even resistance to drill into (just be careful with your drywall screw lengths and/or placement to avoid the pads/joists). I'll be comparing prices for these for the Edwardian mid-terrace we're about to retrofit
Hi Sapio Tone, exactly right. The ReductoClips and Bars are a higher performing system and much easier to install than resilient bars (which are easy to short circuit when drilling). No need to 'be careful' re the screw lengths as a fixing kit is also supplied with the ReductoClip System, containing the correct sized screws. This might also be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip
Thats an interesting recommendation. Doesn't seem to be available here in the UK, but maybe for our US based viewers. I'm not sure if it could perform the same as a high density mineral wool if you look at it's performance accross a wide range of sound frequencies because it doesn't have the same density, but i'm sure it performs perfectly well for most applications at mid and higher frequencies. I don't seem to be able to find any data though in regards to acoustic performance.
Hi Is Az, 120mm build up from the original wall (60mm from the stud frame). The ReductoClip system is the thinnest independent soundproofing wall / ceiling system on the market. Comparisons to other clip systems can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip There is also the option of doing a direct to wall system using the ReductoClip, which is a 60mm build up from the original wall.
@@SoundproofingStore sorry for being thick but when you say 60mm from the stud frame, do you mean the 50mm frame width plus the min 10mm distance from the party wall?
Would this work well for a loud car my neighbor has? Young kid with an old jeep that sounds like it’s missing it’s muffler is getting annoying at 4-5am every day. Gotta love when they park around the corner of their house because they don’t respect the neighbors and would rather avoid the noise in front of their own home.
Hi peanutheadrules, for external noise most likely the sound from the jeep is coming through your windows and doors. External walls are usually constructed of high mass materials and normally work well at naturally blocking sound. This blog might be of use: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundproofing-against-external-noise
I presume the sound reduction bnifits are noticed both sides of the system, ie it will reduce the sound the neighbours hear from the house with the system installed or is it a reduced benifit?
Hi @tombowen9686, absolutely, soundproofing works both ways. e.g. If you are soundproofing your home to stop the unwanted noise from noisy neighbours, then it will also work at blocking any noise from your house from passing into your neighbours property.
Does the acoustic mineral wool need to be kept way from the original wall or should it completely fill the space between the original wall and the front face of the stud wall? Also, is 63mm CLS strong enough for this, or is it better to go with a metal stud frame? Many thanks.
Hi surbitron, mineral wool ideally should not touch the wall, although not a big problem if it does as it's soft, not rigid. Leave the gap behind the frame as an actual air gap. The main idea is to keep it inside of the frame, and fill the depth of the frame as best as you can. So with a 63mm timber, use 50mm of mineral wool. 63mm timber should hold the weight absolutely fine, most customers will use a 48mm timber which is also fine, or you can use a metal stud. Completely up to you which you would prefer to work with.
@Too Legit To Quit the mineral wool is friction fit into the space between the batons. No fixing is required and because of the friction fit it won't touch the wall.
The stud wall is fixed around the perimeter. So screwed into the floor, ceiling joists and adjoining walls either side. Securely fixed to the structure but not touching the offending wall.
Hi @jamesliu4260, the stud frame is secured with fixings into the returning walls, ceiling and floor. Just not touching the offending wall (the one you are soundproofing). This installation video goes into more detail and might be useful: th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
How good is this system I have noise neighbour I can hear every conversation they have and plays music at stupid times like 2am to 5am in the morning had the police out but the won’t do anything coz the music not loud they say 🤬🤬 but clear can hear the music though wall and the bass though my whole house I looking in to doing two bed rooms walls H 240cm by W 360cm how much would that cost
Hi dirtydogg231, the ReductoClip™ Independent System is our highest performing wall system. Designed for the excessive noises you are describing and also used in music studios. Please call us on 01423 206208 to discuss this in more detail, as soundproofing the party wall will help, but as you mention the bass is 'through the whole house' so most likely other areas of the structure will also need to be addressed. You may also find this installation video of the ReductoClip Independent wall Solution useful: th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi there, I have a room that's 240cm x 460cm with standard ceiling height. What would be the approximate cost to supply materials for a job like this, floors , walls & ceiling? As you can see, the room isn't the biggest, how effective is sound reduction without the stud frame? Also what solutions are available when it comes to a window? It's a house so ideally i don't want to block it permanently with a stud wall. Thanks in advance.
Hi Steve, thanks for your comment. You can absolutley soundproof a small room, we have soundproofed small "booths" or section sof rooms for musicians etc. Before I can give you an acurate cost, I would need to talk through the project with you in a little more detail. but as a rough idea, you are probably looking at around £3000 for soundproofing materials. Installing on an independant frame does make a huge difference, as it gives us a much greater de-coupling from the structure. You can install direct to wall, but this reduces results by around 10dB which is pretty huge if you are wanting to use the room for purposes like a music studio. With windows and doors, your best bet is to either replace what you have with higher performing, or as you are bringing the walls forward, you actually have space for a secondary window and second door. Best thing to do is give us a call on 01423 206208 or email us at sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk and we can talk through the project in more detail and put together a spec and cost for you.
My existing/offending wall is a dot and dabbed plasterboard attached to the blockwork party wall. Using this system is it ok to build in front of the plasterboard, or better to remove the plasterboard and build in front of the solid wall to get rid of the existing gap between the plasterboard and solid wall? Thanks
Hi Switch Energy Supplier, in a perfect world, getting rid of the dot and dabbed plasterboard would be preferable. However, adding the ReductoClip system in front is still going to improve it from where it is now, so you don't necessarily need to. However, you will get a better reduction by removing the dot and dab.
Very impressive. But what about an old stone built house with no damp course, thus the walls have to be able to 'breath' and so probably cannot have the sort of soundproofing you suggest?
Hello B, the soundproofing doesn't touch the external, or internal walls with the ReductoClip™ Independent Wall System, as the stud frame is built a minimum of 10mm away from the existing wall. Further details can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
I am building a music studio. Can I install brick over and existing interior wall and is brick alone and excellent sound barrier source? I am converting a shed and don’t want to tear down the outer structure…Bricks will go inside an existing room. Thanks
Hi Terry, you could build a brick room within your shed room. It would certainly add a lot more mass, however would be very rigid. So you would still need another inner layer, ideally something like the ReductoClip system on the inside. That would work very well. Check out our Studio Page on the website for lots of helpful information regarding music studio soundproofing - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing
i have a 1960s bungalow and hear everything from next door. Would love it but the price scares me. I have three alcoves 4x2m each does anyone know the rough cost.
Hi Grundy ? for the ReductoClip Independent Wall System as shown in this video, the cost would be just over £2,100 for the 3 alcoves which includes everything; the ReductoClips, furring bars, acoustic plasterboard, Tecsound, mineral wool, sealant, isolation strip and fixings. It also includes VAT and delivery. This doesn't include the stud frame or installation. (80% of customers install our systems themselves, or alternatively use a local tradesperson). Please feel free to contact us should you have any questions or require anything further (01423 206208).
Hi @NacNacMOTT, great to hear you found it useful. The STC of the ReductoClip Independent System is 80dB (based on it being in front of a brick party wall). 36dB STC improvement figure. (This will change depending on the construction of your wall). More info can be found here if it's of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
this looks like the exact ticket i'm looking for for my townhouse, but have a question - can you reinstall existing cabinets on the new stud frame or will that greatly damper the positives?
Hi cabasse, yes, you can reinstall cabinets, it will simply require extra clips and bars to take the weight. This blog might be useful: (It highlights installing a TV or radiator onto the system, but the same principle applies): www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-install-a-tv-or-radiator-onto-the-reductoclip-systems Any questions at all, please feel free to call us on 01423 206208.
Is there any reason you only use acoustic sealant on the outside layer (around the sides). If you have a lot of sealant to burn through, is it harmful to the end result to run sealant around the sides of both the first and second plasterboard layers? (And maybe even the TecSound layer?!)
Hi Alex Thompson, a 5mm gap is left around the perimeter of the first plasterboard layer and Tecsound to reduce any flanking vibration. Therefore it is only the final layer of plasterboard whereby the 5mm gap is then filled with acoustic sealant.
@@SoundproofingStore thank you so much for taking the time to reply... I'm half way through a build and you've helped answer a big question for me :) many thanks!
@@alexthompson6529 no problem. If you did want to seal each layer, it wouldn't be an issue. Some people choose to do so, as it doesn't have any negative consequences and they like to feel it has given them some extra security sealing both layers. However, there is little/ no benefit, but certainly no harm. (The sealant is flexible, so won't affect any flanking). Likewise, you can choose to install Tecsound directly to the perimeter if you wanted to, it wouldn't matter, either way, leaving a gap, or not leaving a gap with regards to the Tecsound layer, as this too is flexible and not rigid. If you need any further help or advice, just shout, or call 01423 206208.
@@SoundproofingStore you dont need a gap arond the tecsound as this is elasticated only the plaster boards need a 3-5 mm gap, you sell this product and should give correct imformation
@@themaddogsbtd2638 . I didn't say you have to leave a 5mm gap for the TecSound, I said you can choose. "you can choose to install Tecsound directly to the perimeter if you wanted to, it wouldn't matter, either way, leaving a gap, or not leaving a gap with regards to the Tecsound layer, as this too is flexible and not rigid". You dont NEED to fill the gap with TecSound because the acoustic sealant is there. But you CAN fill the gap with TecSound because its a flexible visco material.
The clips are 50 mm you should mention this as standard studs are only 38 mm wide so this would be a problem installing the first and last clip wupith the overhang?
Nowhere do we say to use 38mm stud. We recommend to use as close to 50mm as you can, which gives you option of 45 - 47mm treated timber. There are plenty of timber sizes on the market not one "standard". Plus even if you did use 38mm there is absolutely no problem with the clip overhanging a little either side. As long as its thick enough for the screw to fix through and hold the clip in position, it doesn't matter how much contact the timber has with the clip.
@@donmoore7785 We are a UK based company that supply within the UK only, so obviously our advice is based on UK standards not US. There are similar solutions available in the US that you can look at.
Can this be fitted in two parts either side of a chimney breast protruding into both bedrooms I would like to put this in? Also, if the joists run the opposite direction to those in this video, i.e. parallel with the offending neighbouring wall, can I attach noggins between the last joist and neighbouring wall to sit the stud wall floor plate on?
Hi Marcus, yes, the ReductoClip™ System can be fitted either side of a chimney breast. Generally, the alcoves are the weak point in a property, but you may want to read our blog on soundproofing a chimney: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney If the floor structure needs re-enforcing to take the weight of the system then you should do this in the most appropriate way. Generally, there are floor joists at the edge of the room near the wall when the joists run parallel supporting the weight of the system anyway.
@@SoundproofingStore thank you. I am reinforcing the floor with noggins of similar dimension to the current joists anyway, then using WBP plywood. Can the stud wall and system be placed on top of this plywood for extra rigidity? Finally, how long does this system last?
Hi @@MarcusT86 The stud frame should be secured in place through the isolation strip to the floors, side walls and ceiling and made structurally secure and stable before the other layers are applied. I'm afraid we can't comment on the structure you are putting the system on, as you will need to make sure this is structurally sound your end. Please do call us if you have any further questions regarding the installation 01423 206208. In terms of how long the system will last, it's really as long as you want it to. It could last 'forever' until someone decides to remove it, or if holes are drilled into it, weakening its performance.
Does the mineral wool and timber frame also need to have that little gap in front of the offending wall? If so, what does the timber frame anchor to or to stop it tipping forward?
Hi @treguard1982, yes, there needs to be a 10mm minimum gap from the offending wall. It must not be fixed to the existing wall being soundproofed. The timber frame attaches to the ceiling, floor and side walls. A detailed installation guide can also be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
@@SoundproofingStore Ah!!! I must've read the guide wrong. That makes sense then. So the screws going through the side of the timber frame would also be penetrating the isolation tape. Is there a type of screw that would be better (different metal etc) to minimise any flanking noise or energy transferring down the screws?
@@treguard1982 no, there isn't a specific type of screw that would be any better. Yes, they will penetrate the isolation tape. You need to use a suitable fixing to give a sturdy fix from the frame into the structure. With regards to the mineral wool, it friction fits between the frame. Sam says, just to let you know he has received your e-mail and will reply asap.
This was a great presentation. Question, is this method still effective if you share joists with your neighbour? (situation I am in) If the frame is fixed to the floor and the ceiling (and doesn't go below the floor level)... Will the sound of my neighbours still travel along the joists passing by the wall system?? Would love to hear your thoughts! They're driving me crazy 🤣
Hi Alex. So if you have noise coming from next door and you have shared joists you will probably have a combination of both airborne sound coming directly through the wall, and potentially impact sounds travelling through the joists. Installing the ReductoClip system in front of the wall will reduce that part of the sound and make things better, but you may still get sound travelling along the joists yes. The best thing to do is a simple ear test. When the neighbours make noise, listen to the wall (not your ear physically against the wall, but close) and get a good idea of what you can hear and how loud / clear. Then get down on your hands and knees and listen to the floor and compare. If you only hear sound through the wall, this system will do a great job. If sound is coming through both then you will need to address the floor as well. I would lift up the floorboards and install an acoustic mineral wool insulation between the joists. Install along the party wall and around 1.5m into the room. Then put your floorboards back and have another listen. If you still have sound coming through (or more than you would like), the next step is to add more mass and resilience to the floor using our SoundMat 3 Plus - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundmat-3-plus
@@SoundproofingStore Thanks for taking the time to get back (especially over the holidays), it really is very much appreciated! New year's Eve is tomorrow, I'm sure I'll have lots of noise from next door to do the ear tests 😂 :( I'll probably be in touch in the new year, all the best!
Hi @@alexthompson6529 Definitely! At least thats one positive from having the noise! Once you've done your ear test, get back in touch with us via the website rather than youtube, we can then discuss it properly. www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/
Hi, Thanks for your question. This is a case by case thing really depending on the construction of the building. Generally we find that the majority of noise comes straight through the wall. By the time the sound has passed through the layers of the neighbours floor or ceiling, then through the wall, then through the layers of your floor or ceiling, it is already greatly reduced. So just doing the wall is often enough. We're not aiming for 100% silence, we're aiming for a big reduction to make things more comfortable. However, you need to spend time listening to the other surfaces when the nighbour makes noise and if you can tell that there is a lot of noise flanking via your floor or ceiling, then these may need to be treated as well. Opening up the space and installing acoustic mineral wool in the cavity will help. If it's still not enough then the floor or ceiling may need to be fully soundproofed too.
Hi Matt Valon, there are a couple of options. The preferred option would be to move the sockets to another wall. However, this isn't always practical, so you'd simply fit the Soundproofing across the whole wall and make a small hole in the layers and pull the cable for the socket through and then fill with acoustic sealant. You would then refit the socket on as a surface mounted socket. Take a look at 07:17 on this video: th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html Option three is to fit the soundproofing across the wall area and then use a recessed plug back box. You would then fit an acoustic socket putty pad in the back box of the socket to lessen this as a weak point.
I have a skirting board approx 6cm wide in the property I rent. Would it be possible to fit this on top of the skirting without it protruding? Also, will this damage my existing wall since I rent and I'm not a landlord?
Thanks for the question. Firstly, we wouldn't recommend to install the system on top of your skirting. Soundproofing is like waterproofing, if you only soundproof 90% of the wall, the sound will just come through the 10% you haven't soundproofed. So if you are going to do it, you want to cover the entire wall from floor to ceiling, or you may be wasting your time and money. Secondly, because of the amount of weight being put onto the stud frame, it needs to be mechanically secured to the structure so it doesn't fall down. So you would screw the stud frame into the floor, ceiling and adjoining walls. So although technically its not permanent, you can take it away again, you are drilling holes into the property. So if you are only renting, you will probably need to get permission from the landlord.
Thanks for the heads up. I think you just saved me a lot of money. Are there any cheaper & Simpler alternatives that you would recommend that doesn't include too much excessive mechanical fixing? I want soundproofing in my apartment because the neighbors in the apartment below me are noisy and due to the poorly-made and (I'm assuming) hollow walls, all conversations the neighbors below me literally echo up through the wall and are semi-intelligable & I'm assuming vice-versa. Would something like Mass-Loaded-Vinyl behind a new wallpaper across the entire wallspan be effective at turning their semi-intelligible conversations into something less noticeable, quieter and non-inteligable? Their noise does not travel through the floor/ceiling much at all, it's just these horrible walls... Would MLV be effective and how expensive would that be to cover a (for example) 500cm-by-1000cm (250cm tall) or what else could you recommend for me? I would really appreciate your help, thank you :))
@@lordsoliduscambell4561 we also have a direct to wall solution called the ProSound™ SoundBoard4™ which is suitable for medium levels of noise, such as the odd clear word, conversation, music and TV noise. It features 2 layers of mass loaded vinyl, a layer of closed cell foam and an outer layer of acoustic plasterboard. The total thickness is only 30mm. If you call a member of the team on 01423 206208 they will discuss this solution in more detail and clarify the levels of noise you are experiencing and triple check how much sound is coming through the floor/ceiling. Further details on the SoundBoard 4™ can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundboard-4 th-cam.com/video/5kRXjTEojck/w-d-xo.html
Hi Rita Wahyu, the ReductoClip™ System is for solid or stud walls. Are you trying to soundproof a wall with a window, from external noise? If so, this article might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundproofing-against-external-noise Unfortunately, we don't ship to Indonesia.
Hi booish5, ideally build the stud frame leaving an opening for the window and install the clips and boards around the window. Then install a secondary window on the stud frame to seal the opening. If not using a secondary window then fix layers of acoustic plasterboard and TecSound in the same order directly to the inside of the stud frame to create a window reveal.
Hi Thomas Smith, The ReductoClip™ Independent system includes building a timber frame which attaches to the existing ceiling, floor and side walls. It doesn't need to be set on any acoustic flooring - unless there is impact or airborne noise coming through the floor. In which case this would need to be addressed.
Hi Harbinger, what is the outside noise you are trying to reduce? In most instances for eternal noise you are best addressing your windows and doors. This blog might be of use: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundproofing-against-external-noise
I have a penthouse, so my actual concern is that I want to build a high-end home theater without bothering my neighbors from downstairs, would this work if I place it on the floor?
Hi pottertja00, the ReductoClip™ Independent Wall System isn't suitable for floors, it's for walls and ceilings. To fully soundproof your home theatre, you will need to do so by soundproofing the whole room - creating a 'room within a room.' Take a look at the below link, as it goes through each step, where the most effective soundproofing solutions are highlighted. It is the ideal system for music studios, but with the same principle for home cinemas. www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-home-music-studio-practice-room
For the ReductoClip™ Independent system (as shown in this video), the frame is at least 10mm away from the party wall, so isn't actually touching the party wall. For the ReductoClip™ direct to wall, the clips fix directly to the wall, so you would need to check with your neighbour. Might be worth explaining that any soundproofing you do on your wall, will also benefit them. i.e. will also stop sound transferring from your wall through to theirs (win-win!)
Hi RTKWORLDWIDE, absolutely. We have a dedicated studio team and the ReductoClip™ Independent Wall System is the wall solution used for music studio builds. Take a look here for more information: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing
How long does it take to fit this in a single room and do your colleagues offer a 'full' service option? I.e. removing existing wallpaper and plaster over brick, or do you require a bare brick wall for the job?
Hi K B, it depends on the size of the room and wall dimensions. It might be useful to take a look at this installation video: th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html this took one day for two people to install (which also included lots of stopping for filming). We don't offer an installation service as the system can be installed by a competent DIYer. (The recommendation is two people as the materials are heavy). For those people not wanting to install themselves, then a local tradesperson will have no difficulty. We supply comprehensive installation guides, videos and our technical team will happily answer any installation questions (01423) 206208. Because this system incorporates an independent stud frame built a minimum of 10mm away from the offending wall, there is no need to remove wallpaper. (Although we do recommend removing dot and dab). Please feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 or sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk if we can be of any further help.
Hi Joshua Kangleon, yes, absolutely. Our most effective ceiling system also uses the ReductoClip™System. For further details on the ReductoClip™ ceiling system, have a look here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings
Hi Aspirin Tablet, is the unwanted noise coming through your wall(s)? The above ReductoClip Independent Wall System is for unwanted noise through a party wall, so it makes no difference if you are on the ground floor, as long as the noise is being heard through your walls. If it is being heard through other parts of the structure, then you would need to soundproof these accordingly.
Hi Ron, would this be to stop the sound being heard outside of the range? In theory, yes this would work, as essentially you would be soundproofing the equivalent of a large music studio. You might find this page useful: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing
Hi, please visit www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system or speak to one of our recording studio experts on 01423 206208. There is also a studio page on our website which might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio
THIS is what I need to understand the whole damn process. All other videos are just talking and talking then they did it in a way that only professionals would understand. Thank you for this 3D model. I can now get the whole picture.
Hi Alexander Cheong, great to hear you found it useful.
enjoyed the last 10 seconds of this vid, meditating.
This stuff is fantastic, not the cheapest but defo the best
I’m in a part of the world where I cant buy these vibration proof items. I’m going to try the same, but by using multiple rubber engine mounts, fixed into the concrete wall using M12 screw anchors. My wooden batons will be bolted to these mounts, then I can apply layers of drywall and MLV/polyurethane glue to this. The cylindrical rubber mounts are 100m deep so will provide a nice big air gap for MLV/Rockwool. I can get the mounts for $5 each and the 16mm drywall and poly glue isn’t too bad either, so shouldn’t be too expensive.👍
Great to see this system is available in the UK now! I soundproofed my living room in 2015 and saw this on a US YT channel, but couldn't source them here. I resorted to Knauf resilient bars, which were an absolute pig to screw acoustic plasterboard into, easily pancaking into the joists with the slightest pressure.
With the ReductoClip system, the channels will provide good, even resistance to drill into (just be careful with your drywall screw lengths and/or placement to avoid the pads/joists). I'll be comparing prices for these for the Edwardian mid-terrace we're about to retrofit
Hi Sapio Tone, exactly right. The ReductoClips and Bars are a higher performing system and much easier to install than resilient bars (which are easy to short circuit when drilling).
No need to 'be careful' re the screw lengths as a fixing kit is also supplied with the ReductoClip System, containing the correct sized screws.
This might also be of interest:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip
The walls in my flat are so thin, I can smell my neighbour's farts.
Sorry bout that mate. I'll try to tone it down.
@@badstink I'd appreciate it mate. Thank you.
I like hearing posh scouse
Soothing
Instead of using Acoustic Mineral Wall, I recommend you use R20 Next Generation Insulation because it is half the price and works just as well.
Thats an interesting recommendation. Doesn't seem to be available here in the UK, but maybe for our US based viewers. I'm not sure if it could perform the same as a high density mineral wool if you look at it's performance accross a wide range of sound frequencies because it doesn't have the same density, but i'm sure it performs perfectly well for most applications at mid and higher frequencies. I don't seem to be able to find any data though in regards to acoustic performance.
What is the thickness of this system from the original wall
Hi Is Az, 120mm build up from the original wall (60mm from the stud frame). The ReductoClip system is the thinnest independent soundproofing wall / ceiling system on the market.
Comparisons to other clip systems can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip
There is also the option of doing a direct to wall system using the ReductoClip, which is a 60mm build up from the original wall.
@@SoundproofingStore sorry for being thick but when you say 60mm from the stud frame, do you mean the 50mm frame width plus the min 10mm distance from the party wall?
@@homosexualpanic not thick at all! Yes, that correct. 10mm distance from the original wall, 50mm frame and a further 60mm is the ReductoClip System.
Would this work well for a loud car my neighbor has? Young kid with an old jeep that sounds like it’s missing it’s muffler is getting annoying at 4-5am every day. Gotta love when they park around the corner of their house because they don’t respect the neighbors and would rather avoid the noise in front of their own home.
I have wood paneling by the way
Hi peanutheadrules, for external noise most likely the sound from the jeep is coming through your windows and doors. External walls are usually constructed of high mass materials and normally work well at naturally blocking sound. This blog might be of use:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundproofing-against-external-noise
@@SoundproofingStore awesome! Thank you so much!! 😁 happy new year to you all! 🥳
I presume the sound reduction bnifits are noticed both sides of the system, ie it will reduce the sound the neighbours hear from the house with the system installed or is it a reduced benifit?
Hi @tombowen9686, absolutely, soundproofing works both ways. e.g. If you are soundproofing your home to stop the unwanted noise from noisy neighbours, then it will also work at blocking any noise from your house from passing into your neighbours property.
Does the acoustic mineral wool need to be kept way from the original wall or should it completely fill the space between the original wall and the front face of the stud wall? Also, is 63mm CLS strong enough for this, or is it better to go with a metal stud frame? Many thanks.
Hi surbitron, mineral wool ideally should not touch the wall, although not a big problem if it does as it's soft, not rigid. Leave the gap behind the frame as an actual air gap. The main idea is to keep it inside of the frame, and fill the depth of the frame as best as you can. So with a 63mm timber, use 50mm of mineral wool. 63mm timber should hold the weight absolutely fine, most customers will use a 48mm timber which is also fine, or you can use a metal stud. Completely up to you which you would prefer to work with.
@Too Legit To Quit the mineral wool is friction fit into the space between the batons. No fixing is required and because of the friction fit it won't touch the wall.
How does the new stud wall attach to the wall and not fall over
The stud wall is fixed around the perimeter. So screwed into the floor, ceiling joists and adjoining walls either side. Securely fixed to the structure but not touching the offending wall.
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you so much!
How you build the frame securely without using nails? And the frame is not touching the floor? Looks like impossible😮
Hi @jamesliu4260, the stud frame is secured with fixings into the returning walls, ceiling and floor. Just not touching the offending wall (the one you are soundproofing).
This installation video goes into more detail and might be useful:
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
How good is this system I have noise neighbour I can hear every conversation they have and plays music at stupid times like 2am to 5am in the morning had the police out but the won’t do anything coz the music not loud they say 🤬🤬 but clear can hear the music though wall and the bass though my whole house
I looking in to doing two bed rooms walls H 240cm by W 360cm how much would that cost
Hi dirtydogg231, the ReductoClip™ Independent System is our highest performing wall system. Designed for the excessive noises you are describing and also used in music studios.
Please call us on 01423 206208 to discuss this in more detail, as soundproofing the party wall will help, but as you mention the bass is 'through the whole house' so most likely other areas of the structure will also need to be addressed.
You may also find this installation video of the ReductoClip Independent wall Solution useful:
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi there, I have a room that's 240cm x 460cm with standard ceiling height. What would be the approximate cost to supply materials for a job like this, floors , walls & ceiling? As you can see, the room isn't the biggest, how effective is sound reduction without the stud frame? Also what solutions are available when it comes to a window? It's a house so ideally i don't want to block it permanently with a stud wall. Thanks in advance.
Hi Steve, thanks for your comment. You can absolutley soundproof a small room, we have soundproofed small "booths" or section sof rooms for musicians etc. Before I can give you an acurate cost, I would need to talk through the project with you in a little more detail. but as a rough idea, you are probably looking at around £3000 for soundproofing materials.
Installing on an independant frame does make a huge difference, as it gives us a much greater de-coupling from the structure. You can install direct to wall, but this reduces results by around 10dB which is pretty huge if you are wanting to use the room for purposes like a music studio.
With windows and doors, your best bet is to either replace what you have with higher performing, or as you are bringing the walls forward, you actually have space for a secondary window and second door.
Best thing to do is give us a call on 01423 206208 or email us at sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk and we can talk through the project in more detail and put together a spec and cost for you.
can i have it dun in my cell
My existing/offending wall is a dot and dabbed plasterboard attached to the blockwork party wall. Using this system is it ok to build in front of the plasterboard, or better to remove the plasterboard and build in front of the solid wall to get rid of the existing gap between the plasterboard and solid wall? Thanks
Hi Switch Energy Supplier, in a perfect world, getting rid of the dot and dabbed plasterboard would be preferable. However, adding the ReductoClip system in front is still going to improve it from where it is now, so you don't necessarily need to. However, you will get a better reduction by removing the dot and dab.
Very impressive. But what about an old stone built house with no damp course, thus the walls have to be able to 'breath' and so probably cannot have the sort of soundproofing you suggest?
Hello B, the soundproofing doesn't touch the external, or internal walls with the ReductoClip™ Independent Wall System, as the stud frame is built a minimum of 10mm away from the existing wall.
Further details can be found here:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
@@SoundproofingStore thank you for the helpful information
I am building a music studio. Can I install brick over and existing interior wall and is brick alone and excellent sound barrier source?
I am converting a shed and don’t want to tear down the outer structure…Bricks will go inside an existing room.
Thanks
Hi Terry, you could build a brick room within your shed room. It would certainly add a lot more mass, however would be very rigid. So you would still need another inner layer, ideally something like the ReductoClip system on the inside. That would work very well. Check out our Studio Page on the website for lots of helpful information regarding music studio soundproofing - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing
i have a 1960s bungalow and hear everything from next door. Would love it but the price scares me. I have three alcoves 4x2m each does anyone know the rough cost.
Hi Grundy ? for the ReductoClip Independent Wall System as shown in this video, the cost would be just over £2,100 for the 3 alcoves which includes everything; the ReductoClips, furring bars, acoustic plasterboard, Tecsound, mineral wool, sealant, isolation strip and fixings. It also includes VAT and delivery. This doesn't include the stud frame or installation. (80% of customers install our systems themselves, or alternatively use a local tradesperson). Please feel free to contact us should you have any questions or require anything further (01423 206208).
very nice and educative video What is the expected STC with such construction ?
Hi @NacNacMOTT, great to hear you found it useful. The STC of the ReductoClip Independent System is 80dB (based on it being in front of a brick party wall). 36dB STC improvement figure.
(This will change depending on the construction of your wall).
More info can be found here if it's of interest:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you very much.
this looks like the exact ticket i'm looking for for my townhouse, but have a question - can you reinstall existing cabinets on the new stud frame or will that greatly damper the positives?
Hi cabasse, yes, you can reinstall cabinets, it will simply require extra clips and bars to take the weight. This blog might be useful:
(It highlights installing a TV or radiator onto the system, but the same principle applies):
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-install-a-tv-or-radiator-onto-the-reductoclip-systems
Any questions at all, please feel free to call us on 01423 206208.
Is there any reason you only use acoustic sealant on the outside layer (around the sides).
If you have a lot of sealant to burn through, is it harmful to the end result to run sealant around the sides of both the first and second plasterboard layers? (And maybe even the TecSound layer?!)
Hi Alex Thompson, a 5mm gap is left around the perimeter of the first plasterboard layer and Tecsound to reduce any flanking vibration. Therefore it is only the final layer of plasterboard whereby the 5mm gap is then filled with acoustic sealant.
@@SoundproofingStore thank you so much for taking the time to reply... I'm half way through a build and you've helped answer a big question for me :) many thanks!
@@alexthompson6529 no problem. If you did want to seal each layer, it wouldn't be an issue. Some people choose to do so, as it doesn't have any negative consequences and they like to feel it has given them some extra security sealing both layers. However, there is little/ no benefit, but certainly no harm. (The sealant is flexible, so won't affect any flanking). Likewise, you can choose to install Tecsound directly to the perimeter if you wanted to, it wouldn't matter, either way, leaving a gap, or not leaving a gap with regards to the Tecsound layer, as this too is flexible and not rigid.
If you need any further help or advice, just shout, or call 01423 206208.
@@SoundproofingStore you dont need a gap arond the tecsound as this is elasticated only the plaster boards need a 3-5 mm gap, you sell this product and should give correct imformation
@@themaddogsbtd2638 . I didn't say you have to leave a 5mm gap for the TecSound, I said you can choose. "you can choose to install Tecsound directly to the perimeter if you wanted to, it wouldn't matter, either way, leaving a gap, or not leaving a gap with regards to the Tecsound layer, as this too is flexible and not rigid". You dont NEED to fill the gap with TecSound because the acoustic sealant is there. But you CAN fill the gap with TecSound because its a flexible visco material.
The clips are 50 mm you should mention this as standard studs are only 38 mm wide so this would be a problem installing the first and last clip wupith the overhang?
Nowhere do we say to use 38mm stud. We recommend to use as close to 50mm as you can, which gives you option of 45 - 47mm treated timber. There are plenty of timber sizes on the market not one "standard". Plus even if you did use 38mm there is absolutely no problem with the clip overhanging a little either side. As long as its thick enough for the screw to fix through and hold the clip in position, it doesn't matter how much contact the timber has with the clip.
@@SoundproofingStore Here in the US, standard stud sizes are in fact 1=1/2 inch wide, or 38mm. That is a fact.
@@donmoore7785 We are a UK based company that supply within the UK only, so obviously our advice is based on UK standards not US. There are similar solutions available in the US that you can look at.
Can this be fitted in two parts either side of a chimney breast protruding into both bedrooms I would like to put this in?
Also, if the joists run the opposite direction to those in this video, i.e. parallel with the offending neighbouring wall, can I attach noggins between the last joist and neighbouring wall to sit the stud wall floor plate on?
Hi Marcus, yes, the ReductoClip™ System can be fitted either side of a chimney breast. Generally, the alcoves are the weak point in a property, but you may want to read our blog on soundproofing a chimney: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney
If the floor structure needs re-enforcing to take the weight of the system then you should do this in the most appropriate way. Generally, there are floor joists at the edge of the room near the wall when the joists run parallel supporting the weight of the system anyway.
@@SoundproofingStore thank you. I am reinforcing the floor with noggins of similar dimension to the current joists anyway, then using WBP plywood.
Can the stud wall and system be placed on top of this plywood for extra rigidity?
Finally, how long does this system last?
Hi @@MarcusT86 The stud frame should be secured in place through the isolation strip to the floors, side walls and ceiling and made structurally secure and stable before the other layers are applied. I'm afraid we can't comment on the structure you are putting the system on, as you will need to make sure this is structurally sound your end.
Please do call us if you have any further questions regarding the installation 01423 206208.
In terms of how long the system will last, it's really as long as you want it to. It could last 'forever' until someone decides to remove it, or if holes are drilled into it, weakening its performance.
Does the mineral wool and timber frame also need to have that little gap in front of the offending wall? If so, what does the timber frame anchor to or to stop it tipping forward?
Hi @treguard1982, yes, there needs to be a 10mm minimum gap from the offending wall. It must not be fixed to the existing wall being soundproofed. The timber frame attaches to the ceiling, floor and side walls.
A detailed installation guide can also be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
@@SoundproofingStore Ah!!! I must've read the guide wrong. That makes sense then. So the screws going through the side of the timber frame would also be penetrating the isolation tape. Is there a type of screw that would be better (different metal etc) to minimise any flanking noise or energy transferring down the screws?
@@SoundproofingStore So the mineral wall adhesive points would be just solely the timber frame then? :)
@@treguard1982 no, there isn't a specific type of screw that would be any better. Yes, they will penetrate the isolation tape. You need to use a suitable fixing to give a sturdy fix from the frame into the structure. With regards to the mineral wool, it friction fits between the frame.
Sam says, just to let you know he has received your e-mail and will reply asap.
@@SoundproofingStore Cheers guys - really appreciate all your help. Look forward to putting the order in shortly. :)
This was a great presentation. Question, is this method still effective if you share joists with your neighbour? (situation I am in)
If the frame is fixed to the floor and the ceiling (and doesn't go below the floor level)... Will the sound of my neighbours still travel along the joists passing by the wall system??
Would love to hear your thoughts! They're driving me crazy 🤣
Hi Alex. So if you have noise coming from next door and you have shared joists you will probably have a combination of both airborne sound coming directly through the wall, and potentially impact sounds travelling through the joists. Installing the ReductoClip system in front of the wall will reduce that part of the sound and make things better, but you may still get sound travelling along the joists yes. The best thing to do is a simple ear test. When the neighbours make noise, listen to the wall (not your ear physically against the wall, but close) and get a good idea of what you can hear and how loud / clear. Then get down on your hands and knees and listen to the floor and compare. If you only hear sound through the wall, this system will do a great job. If sound is coming through both then you will need to address the floor as well. I would lift up the floorboards and install an acoustic mineral wool insulation between the joists. Install along the party wall and around 1.5m into the room. Then put your floorboards back and have another listen. If you still have sound coming through (or more than you would like), the next step is to add more mass and resilience to the floor using our SoundMat 3 Plus - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundmat-3-plus
@@SoundproofingStore Thanks for taking the time to get back (especially over the holidays), it really is very much appreciated!
New year's Eve is tomorrow, I'm sure I'll have lots of noise from next door to do the ear tests 😂 :(
I'll probably be in touch in the new year, all the best!
Hi @@alexthompson6529 Definitely! At least thats one positive from having the noise! Once you've done your ear test, get back in touch with us via the website rather than youtube, we can then discuss it properly. www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/
What about the ceiling and floating floor spaces?
Hi, Thanks for your question. This is a case by case thing really depending on the construction of the building. Generally we find that the majority of noise comes straight through the wall. By the time the sound has passed through the layers of the neighbours floor or ceiling, then through the wall, then through the layers of your floor or ceiling, it is already greatly reduced. So just doing the wall is often enough. We're not aiming for 100% silence, we're aiming for a big reduction to make things more comfortable. However, you need to spend time listening to the other surfaces when the nighbour makes noise and if you can tell that there is a lot of noise flanking via your floor or ceiling, then these may need to be treated as well. Opening up the space and installing acoustic mineral wool in the cavity will help. If it's still not enough then the floor or ceiling may need to be fully soundproofed too.
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you!
What about power outlets that were in the brick wall? Can you make new ones in the sound reducting wall without too much loss in noise reduction?
Hi Matt Valon, there are a couple of options. The preferred option would be to move the sockets to another wall. However, this isn't always practical, so you'd simply fit the Soundproofing across the whole wall and make a small hole in the layers and pull the cable for the socket through and then fill with acoustic sealant.
You would then refit the socket on as a surface mounted socket.
Take a look at 07:17 on this video:
th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html
Option three is to fit the soundproofing across the wall area and then use a recessed plug back box. You would then fit an acoustic socket putty pad in the back box of the socket to lessen this as a weak point.
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you for the reply! It really helps.
Is every semi detached house include this?
Do you have any applications that would reduce road noise for a backyard environment??
Hi Roy Johnson, our soundproofing solutions are for indoor applications. It might be worth looking at acoustic fences.
I have a skirting board approx 6cm wide in the property I rent. Would it be possible to fit this on top of the skirting without it protruding? Also, will this damage my existing wall since I rent and I'm not a landlord?
Thanks for the question. Firstly, we wouldn't recommend to install the system on top of your skirting. Soundproofing is like waterproofing, if you only soundproof 90% of the wall, the sound will just come through the 10% you haven't soundproofed. So if you are going to do it, you want to cover the entire wall from floor to ceiling, or you may be wasting your time and money. Secondly, because of the amount of weight being put onto the stud frame, it needs to be mechanically secured to the structure so it doesn't fall down. So you would screw the stud frame into the floor, ceiling and adjoining walls. So although technically its not permanent, you can take it away again, you are drilling holes into the property. So if you are only renting, you will probably need to get permission from the landlord.
Thanks for the heads up. I think you just saved me a lot of money. Are there any cheaper & Simpler alternatives that you would recommend that doesn't include too much excessive mechanical fixing? I want soundproofing in my apartment because the neighbors in the apartment below me are noisy and due to the poorly-made and (I'm assuming) hollow walls, all conversations the neighbors below me literally echo up through the wall and are semi-intelligable & I'm assuming vice-versa. Would something like Mass-Loaded-Vinyl behind a new wallpaper across the entire wallspan be effective at turning their semi-intelligible conversations into something less noticeable, quieter and non-inteligable? Their noise does not travel through the floor/ceiling much at all, it's just these horrible walls... Would MLV be effective and how expensive would that be to cover a (for example) 500cm-by-1000cm (250cm tall) or what else could you recommend for me? I would really appreciate your help, thank you :))
@@lordsoliduscambell4561 we also have a direct to wall solution called the ProSound™ SoundBoard4™ which is suitable for medium levels of noise, such as the odd clear word, conversation, music and TV noise. It features 2 layers of mass loaded vinyl, a layer of closed cell foam and an outer layer of acoustic plasterboard. The total thickness is only 30mm.
If you call a member of the team on 01423 206208 they will discuss this solution in more detail and clarify the levels of noise you are experiencing and triple check how much sound is coming through the floor/ceiling.
Further details on the SoundBoard 4™ can be found here:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundboard-4
th-cam.com/video/5kRXjTEojck/w-d-xo.html
what about if you have large windows in the room also?, Is this available in Indonesia?
Hi Rita Wahyu, the ReductoClip™ System is for solid or stud walls. Are you trying to soundproof a wall with a window, from external noise? If so, this article might be of interest:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundproofing-against-external-noise
Unfortunately, we don't ship to Indonesia.
How do you deal with a corner in the "offending" wall? We have an L shape, where would you place the initial layer 6mm prosound insulation strip?
Hi Michael Klas, we really need to see the wall layout to answer this properly. Can you send us a photo of the wall to sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk
If the bricked wall is equipped with a window, how do you go around it?
Hi booish5, ideally build the stud frame leaving an opening for the window and install the clips and boards around the window. Then install a secondary window on the stud frame to seal the opening. If not using a secondary window then fix layers of acoustic plasterboard and TecSound in the same order directly to the inside of the stud frame to create a window reveal.
Would this require some sort of acooustic flooring to be set on? Or can this be set on floorboards?
Thank you
Hi Thomas Smith, The ReductoClip™ Independent system includes building a timber frame which attaches to the existing ceiling, floor and side walls. It doesn't need to be set on any acoustic flooring - unless there is impact or airborne noise coming through the floor. In which case this would need to be addressed.
Does this system reduce outside low frequency airborne sound waves?
Hi Harbinger, what is the outside noise you are trying to reduce? In most instances for eternal noise you are best addressing your windows and doors. This blog might be of use:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundproofing-against-external-noise
I have a penthouse, so my actual concern is that I want to build a high-end home theater without bothering my neighbors from downstairs, would this work if I place it on the floor?
Hi pottertja00, the ReductoClip™ Independent Wall System isn't suitable for floors, it's for walls and ceilings. To fully soundproof your home theatre, you will need to do so by soundproofing the whole room - creating a 'room within a room.' Take a look at the below link, as it goes through each step, where the most effective soundproofing solutions are highlighted. It is the ideal system for music studios, but with the same principle for home cinemas.
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-home-music-studio-practice-room
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you so much!
How does the party wall act affect this work? Is it okay to start without consulting it? Thanks.
For the ReductoClip™ Independent system (as shown in this video), the frame is at least 10mm away from the party wall, so isn't actually touching the party wall.
For the ReductoClip™ direct to wall, the clips fix directly to the wall, so you would need to check with your neighbour. Might be worth explaining that any soundproofing you do on your wall, will also benefit them. i.e. will also stop sound transferring from your wall through to theirs (win-win!)
@@SoundproofingStore That's cool. Will be in touch soon to start my project.
Would this work for soundproofing a music studio as well?
Hi RTKWORLDWIDE, absolutely. We have a dedicated studio team and the ReductoClip™ Independent Wall System is the wall solution used for music studio builds. Take a look here for more information: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing
Is it possible to get the Reducto Clips in India ?
Hi Sound Chapel Recording Studio, I'm afraid we don't ship the ReductoClips outside of the UK.
How long does it take to fit this in a single room and do your colleagues offer a 'full' service option? I.e. removing existing wallpaper and plaster over brick, or do you require a bare brick wall for the job?
Hi K B, it depends on the size of the room and wall dimensions. It might be useful to take a look at this installation video: th-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/w-d-xo.html this took one day for two people to install (which also included lots of stopping for filming).
We don't offer an installation service as the system can be installed by a competent DIYer. (The recommendation is two people as the materials are heavy). For those people not wanting to install themselves, then a local tradesperson will have no difficulty. We supply comprehensive installation guides, videos and our technical team will happily answer any installation questions (01423) 206208.
Because this system incorporates an independent stud frame built a minimum of 10mm away from the offending wall, there is no need to remove wallpaper. (Although we do recommend removing dot and dab).
Please feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 or sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk if we can be of any further help.
Hi. Could I use this system on a concrete ceiling?
Hi Joshua Kangleon, yes, absolutely. Our most effective ceiling system also uses the ReductoClip™System. For further details on the ReductoClip™ ceiling system, have a look here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings
@@SoundproofingStore thank you so much!
do you have a store in NYC?
Hi Leonardo Santana, I'm afraid we don't have any stores in the U.S.
Hello sir, i just wanna ask if i still need to do that on my floor if I'm in ground floor??
Hi Aspirin Tablet, is the unwanted noise coming through your wall(s)? The above ReductoClip Independent Wall System is for unwanted noise through a party wall, so it makes no difference if you are on the ground floor, as long as the noise is being heard through your walls. If it is being heard through other parts of the structure, then you would need to soundproof these accordingly.
hello! are you available in the US?
TCHHNNH, I'm afraid we don't ship to the US.
would it work for a shooting range?
Hi Ron, would this be to stop the sound being heard outside of the range? In theory, yes this would work, as essentially you would be soundproofing the equivalent of a large music studio. You might find this page useful:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing
How much does this cost ?
Hi As an average cost per meter squared the cost is £68 per m2 Ex VAT. Any questions please call us on 01423206208
look very dear ,my dear
The cost based on an average wall of 4m x 2.3m can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/what-is-the-cost-of-soundproofing-v-s-moving-house.
How do i get this for my recording studio
Hi, please visit www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system or speak to one of our recording studio experts on 01423 206208.
There is also a studio page on our website which might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio
Whats the isolation strip made from?
Hi Matt Obeirne, it's made from recycled rubber.
Stephen Merchant
Two people with incredibly different accents...
India me khi bhi sound proof ka high quality work krane ke liye col kre