I purchased my house about 2 years ago and still learning new things about it. It is a very large house with a basement that floods a lot. There was a sump pump put in so that the flooding is no longer there, but there are still leaks I can see from the concrete walls. The floor there in all the rooms are what appears to be normal tile you would find on many floors. But many are chipped and loose. I was thinking of removing the tiles and putting a coat of epoxy there and watched the video for that reason. Recently I was cleaning the sun room, the room in front behind the front door. While sweeping it, I saw chips of flat flakes and the picture on the video made me realize it must have been from an old epoxy coating. I've learned that epoxy is not good for humidity which is probably why the basement floors have tile on them. The garages in back of the house all have thick concrete floors that are in very good shape and there are no leaks there. There is a lot of rain here in Springfield, MO so I don't think I will be coating any floors with epoxy. Walking to the front of the house from outside, you have to climb stairs to the front door which makes that front room 6 or more feet above ground level. So it is dry in that room, except for a leak coming from the bottom of the front door after a good rain, which might explain the chipping epoxy layer on the floor. Thanks very much for bringing your video for me to help explain epoxy floor coatings.
I took almost a week prepping my shop floor. After 14 years it hasn't peeled, cracked or came up anywhere. It is stained in several spots do to my neglect so i am in the process of prepping again prior to recoating
I disagree with you, i spend 2 days prepping and cleaning my floor. My freshly applied epoxy looks like shit. Its full of orange perl from the rollers. Any ideas why? Im i using the wrong epoxy? I want my epoxy to look smooth and reflective, but its actually the oposite.
Use special epoxy rollers, not regular paint rollers. First use squeegee to do most of the work and then finish it with the special rollers, and if u take the roller and roll it over the tape good before you use it, it will also help with fibers.
There is a proper epoxy resin specific for wooden floors with a primer filler to fill voids and it's all self leveling and then it has the top coat. And someone asked how to remove bubbles, that's what blow dryers and torch tools are for. It's important to continue checking surface temperatures as the product cures. Just select the proper epoxy resin for your specific project and research all you can about it and follow the instructions to avoid fails! Best of luck!
2 component epoxy primers should be used. If you apply a high build coat on top I always recommend sprinkling some sand on the wet primer. For more information on priming watch this video th-cam.com/video/EqscZnJsvS4/w-d-xo.html
A machine with a rotating brush underneath should be fine. No need to buy the overpriced detergents that they sell. Basic cleaning detergent mixed with warm water does a good job
Hi and just wondering if you can add another thin layer of clear epoxy resin directly onto a floor that has being covered with clear epoxy resin about a week ago. Thank you.
it is possible but the main risk is bonding. Clear resin makes a very smooth and glassy surface that could cause cratering when you apply the next coating on top
I am having a problem with the second clear coat using H&C shield Crete kit from Sherwin-Williams. First coat was dried and clear, the second coat came out white and stays that way after 2 days. Could you help with an idea how to fix it w/o removing the clear epoxy coat?
Don't know what may have caused it. You could find a corner and try sanding with a high grit paper like 300 or 500 and test to see what happens. You could also try recoating that area and see the results
Howdy .... I have a corrugated steel shed on a slab of good concrete . Can i use this stuff to raise and waterproof the inside floor by about 20mm ? Tony.
Our school had to have an asbestos abatement done on our concrete floors to remove absestos containing adhesive. At the end they applied some sort of oil product to encapsulate any possible particles that hadn't been removed or contained. Is there any type if epoxy type product that can be applied on this floor? I understand all the comments about floor prep, but we are truly limited in what we can do
You would need to look into a suitable primer that can act as a bridge between the oil floor and the epoxy. If you find the right primer then epoxy should be able to stick to that
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 Which would you recommend for a cement floor that doesn't have any covering on top? Our basketball lines go on top of the cement floor (cracked in some areas).
I would recommend that instead of epoxy you use a more elastic coating like polyurethane. It will adhere to the wood and also be able to deal with the contractions
Yes epoxy can be coated over. If it seems to be damaged you may want to apply a primer first just to be sure that it will bond properly. Power washing should help make the epoxy clean, but if there are cracks in the floor you may end up with trapped humidity
You must grind the marble and give it a good scratch. Marble is difficult for bonding as it is very glossy and lacks pores. On top of that apply a thin fluid epoxy primer that will bond well
Let the mixed product sit for two minutes before starting the application. Many bubbles will burst. Also, If you are a applying a thick coating use a spiked roller to eliminate the bubbles. For thin film coatings, backrolling should eliminate any bubbles
If you apply with a roller you will get roller texture. By backrolling you can improve the texture. Have a look at this video th-cam.com/video/wYbpu0-lC64/w-d-xo.html If you want a perfectly smooth floor you need to do a self leveling epoxy applied with a trowel and spiked roller
I have already put down a hardener/resin epoxy but I dont think I mixed well enough as it has not cured in close to a week. What can I do to help it cure or what is the best next step?
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 hello, I have a Similar issue. I didn't put enough hardener down and I have almost 25% of my garage is sticky after drying. Would I be able to put a clear coat epoxy down or would I need to scrape the bad up and wipe down with alcohol then recoat? Thank you
I have heard about polyaspartics not needing primer but I am very wary of not priming floors. I have a video where I explain the reasons why you should always prime th-cam.com/video/EqscZnJsvS4/w-d-xo.html
I am wanting epoxy/polycuramine a refridgerated chiller concrete floor. it is the size of 4 x 40ft containers. should i do in stages or make sure enough people on hand to do in one hit? Also, thank you for the video... i've watched a number where the epoxy bubbles up and don't think the food verifiers would be keen on this. Cheers Dean
Yes you are right about the food verifiers! They don't want to see any pores in the floor. 4X40ft is not that large of an area. If you have prior experience go do it in one hit. If you are inexperienced, you want to do one container first just so you look out for any problems
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 Interesting you say you can put this stuff over tiles, which are probably set to a wood floor, but you say no to wood floors. I have wood floors I am adding heat to. I will then have a strong boarded floor on top of that, then add the resin to it. I am doing the counters the same way with the resin.
ok now I see, you mean like using a spreadable cement to level the surface and then you want to coat over it. Yes this is overall good solution, but it really depends on how much wear and tear your floor will be getting. If it is just a storage space with little traffic you should be fine. For heavier duty jobs I would advise checking to see what the mechanical resistance of such a product is
do you still need to grind if its a new concrete floor? Would it be better to have the concrete finishers leave the surface slightly rough, for new construction?
It is always advisable to grind & remove the top crust of a concrete floor even if it has been left slightly rough. Often you will find that the top crust is somewhat weaker and prone to cracks. Grinding the floor will immediately reveal any problems with the concrete
I'm doing over the floor in a restaurant that somehow have 3 sets of ceramic tiles stacked onto the sub floor . It will cost too much to try to get that up and do the floors. We wanted the floor to be red. with the clear epoxy coating over it. We painted it already but wanted to do more research before we go ahead and lay it down. Now by looking around I didn't see much on that subject and want to know if I use the right epoxy primer by rolling it onto the ceramic tiles,(a few coats) will that be sufficient enough for the epoxy resin to bond?
You should grind/ sand/ blast the tiles in advance as you need to remove the ceramic varnish coating that covers the tiles. Once this coating is scratched then you can go ahead and apply the primer. I have another video here th-cam.com/video/gRIoNyurzSM/w-d-xo.html
I want to epoxy my basement floor where I have a small woodworking shop. However, My basement floor has moisture beneath it. Years ago I installed a swimming pool resurfacer called Akona. It’s like paint with sand in it, almost like a stucco. It’s supposed to seal out moisture. However, wherever a plastic tub sat on the floor, after about a year, when I’d move it, I found just a little discoloration and a light grey mold, a very small amount. This told me that moisture was still coming up through the floor. So I bought a cement floor paint from Valspar that is designed to seal out moisture. It also had a sand in it. It worked. However, I’d like to install a more permanent product that will stand up to high traffic and wear and tear better. Can I install epoxy over this product without removing the previous two products? There will always be moisture under this concrete floor. If I remove the existing product, this floor will never be dry enough to install epoxy. What do you recommend?
very good video! just a question, half of my garage floor has spalled, should I resurfaced it first entirely before epoxy-coating? I am looking to sakrete flo coat, do you think that'll be good if so?
Thank you! when you say spalled,has the epoxy cracked or is it a concrete issue? If the problem is widespread you should definitely consider fixing the whole thing before you re-surface. As for sakcrete I do not know thisbrand
I'm going to diamond grind, degrease and etch to prep. I'm thinking about using Epoxy-Coat brand. Would you reccomend that or a big box store brand? Also, if I use Epoxy-Coat, should I prime it? The kit doesn't come with a primer.
I am not really familiar with brands available in the US so I can't comment on the products. However I am always in favour of priming the floor first, it will reduce the chance of peeling and will overall give a better gloss on the final result
Hello master . Thank you for the videos .I have a little projects in mind to do a wooden bathtub it's a challenge that I will need to study and learn from others and I will like to see what tipe of epoxy or what to use to make sure the bathtub it's seal and the water will stay inside and to make sure it's not going to crack or if it's even possible to do it?Any information will help . Thank you in advance Ben!
You need to use a flexible coating with the wooden bathtub. When the bathtub fills up with water, it will expand. You need coating that can follow the expansion. I doubt if Epoxy can handle it
Yes it will fail because epoxy is not UV resistant. It will go yellow and start to chalk. Don't believe reps that claim otherwise. They will be long gone when the floor starts to yellow. You would need to use an aliphatic polyurethane product for outdoor applications
Thanks Rizwan, yes you can apply epoxy on marble although marble is notorious for poor bonding. Make sure you grind it well to remove any gloss, and apply a low viscosity primer to make sure it pentrates the pores of the marble
Great info! I have a question and I cant find a video that could help me. How do you prepare a old epoxy floor to re- epoxy it? do you just clean and sand lightly or do you have to remove old epoxy? (the old epoxy is not peeleng or chiping, its just faded)
Perhaps you haven't seen the Pros that make tutorial vids on it. Most of the ones I've seen have stressed the preping part, from making sure it's thoroughly clean, getting it primed properly, etc. and making sure the floor is leveled (which this should be added to the list IMO).
My garage floor has been previously painted, close to half has peeled off or wore off. It looks like somebody used latex paint on it but not sure. I'm going to strip it off, scrape, paint remover, acid etch, sand, clean. Any suggestions before applying Rustoleum pro epozy garage floor paint?,thank you
There are better floor coverings if you have heated floors. Epoxy is not great at thermal transmission, plus it does not have any elastic properties that can account for the changes in temperature
Edvinas Mieldazys Edvinas Mieldazys I am adding a heating element under a wood floor, then doing the resin. Perhaps do not connect it to the walls. Leave space for the wood to move. I still have to screw the floor down though. I will ask around for those who use this resin stuff. Stone Cold Counters is good.
I don't recommend it. You may have adhesion issues but most importantly acrylic paint on floors is very weak and it struggles with impact stress and wear
We put such products all the time for food and pharmaceutical manufacturing. So yes it is safe floors in such areas. Regarding the cost of tiles, it is impossible to compare this as both tiles and epoxy have massive variations in quality and specs
Our basement floor has many layers of paint, do we have to grind it completely off before we apply the epoxy? In other words, how do we prepare a painted floor before we apply the epoxy paint?
It depends on the condition. If the paint is in good condition and not peeling you could prime on top. However if it cracked and falling apart you want to grind it of with a sanding or a grinding machine
we mixed with mixer attached to electric drill according to the directions. at this point i only want to know if there's anything i can put over it to eliminate the sticky surface. someone said to sprinkle silica sand on it. have you heard of this?
sprinkling sand will reduce the stickiness but it will still be a sticky floor and the sand will not be very sturdy. The best solution would be remove the sticky part with a scraper, wipe with solvent and re-coat
granite is a very difficult surface to bond with. You will need to diamond grind it, and make sure you get a good scratched profile. Then proceed by using a strong low viscosity epoxy primer than can penetrate the surface
I had someone put epoxy on my garage floor the first time he did it was sticky for a few days and peeled in 3 or four places under tires. He came and fixed a few areas and now recently 1 area peeled off the floor. What’s the solution? Any advice is much appreciated
If it's is just one area you could try doing a local patch job. But if you feel that the whole floor is slowly failing and that it will be one never ending patch job after the other then you may need to strip the old floor and do a recoat
Applying on wood is tricky as wood tends to contract and expand. This could lead to future cracking of the epoxy. I know that some people apply a primer first and then apply the epoxy. I would advise thin layers of epoxy, thick layers are more likely to crack
If you have any flex when you're walking on your wood, then you should put another layer of plywood down. I have used flexible epoxy before on wood (right after primer) then went over that with the rest of the floor... Not sure if it really does anything, but my boss had me throw fiberglass into the floor as well, and also not fun either to flatten your floor out again afterwards. And your itchy the rest of the project.
When epoxying over a painted garage floor. Should it always be diamond ground? Do you need complete removal of the previous layer of paint or can I prime over this?
If the paint is in tact and not peeling you can prime over. If it is peeling you should assess if it is a localized problem. If the peeling is everywhere you try grinding it as much as possible
Are there Primers for the floor that will keep the old contaminants in the cement from ever interacting with the epoxy finish? If so, what are they? Who makes a good primer product for epoxy floor finishes? Should the concrete be sanded with a floor finisher or etched with acid?
Yes there are primers for the floor tht are better at blocking oils and contaminants. However there is not one guaranteed product that will block all contaminants. Also regarding a good primer it really depends on the substrate in question. A porous substrate requires a thicker primer while a dense concrete floor requires a low viscosity primer that will penetrate the substrate
2 yr. Old epoxy gives out odors, it always has since new. It's in my bedroom. My beds shape got printed to it in a yellow color. I got pearl white epoxy.. any idea
Still gives off odors after 2 years? Doesn't sound good. Most likely causes 1) the epoxy never cured properly, so there is some excess chemical that gives off the odour. Also this could be the cause of dirt pickup and the yellowing. 2) Does the room get much sunlight? I am wondering if UV chalking may have something to do with it
I am very experienced with epoxy and mixed some epoxy by a manufacturer mentioned. I mixed in correct ratio and properly- it smells still after 6 weeks. I've never seen this before and would normally say user erroor bit in thius case I know the p product is still smelly 6 weeks on.
A diamond mesh sheet would definitely make the tensile strength of the floor very strong. However for bonding you would still need to do priming and somehow attach the sheet to the floor before coating. Also you would need significant quantities of epoxy to completely cover the mesh sheet. All this of course is hypothetical as I have never tried it for a floor.
You can apply it, but personally I prefer PU based coatings for heated floors. They are more flexible and can adjust better to the changes in temperature
When applying epoxy, it is always advisable to wear a mask to avoid inhaling the fumes, as the smell can trigger irritation. There is no long term evidence of linking epoxy to serious diseases like cancer, but gloves and masks are always advisable
In two places on my epoxy garage floor, a long running line, like a narrow ridge, has formed under the epoxy. One is about two feet long and the other is three of four feet long. What could have caused this?. The epoxy was professionally done a year ago and looks good otherwise. It is the epoxy with the flakes.
Could these be old floor joints that became visible due to the summer heat expansion? Otherwise these could be cracks in the floor that became visible again due to hotter temperatures
no wood for floors... as the stress and the expansion will be too much for floor to handle. But for countertops it's different. Here the area size is very small, and all the stress is much less
Samat Teberdi Samat Teberdi I am still doing it to my floors. I am adding heating between my wood. I can't have a cement floor in my house as it sits up on cinder blocks. It already has a wood floor. I need to add the heat between the floor and the top wood floor. I am going to add the resin and see what happens. If it cracks, add more resin.
I have a floor that has hairline cracks in it. They are getting worse but I can't afford a new floor! What product can I use to repair or "fill" the cracks? I think the resin is cracking because the screed underneath it is.
This not a one or the other decision. Both tiles and epoxy have their place in flooring. You need to decide what's best based on your needs and the existing conditions
I am planning on doing the floors in my house downstairs. The base floor is 1940 wood. I am adding heating element on that. It will have the orange holder under it, then tile compound to hold the wires in place. Then good board will be screwed down every foot, so it will not move or shift. They will be sanded prior to adding the resin. If it is a success, I will let people know. And how it holds up. I am doing my bathroom counters and kitchen ones as well. I believe there are different types of resin for floors and counters. I plan on asking the professionals where I get the stuff from. Counters are attached too to cabnets. The wood underneath should shift and crack too if what you say is so. How is a floor any different than a counter.
Floors differ in the sense that they have much bigger strains of weight and shifts in load than a counter has. People walking or furniture being moved can cause major expansions and contractions if you have wood underneath
I just did a garage floor with a new product. And the product flashed and hardened within an hour. Giving me no time at all to work with it why would it do that???
Most epoxies have a pot life of 40-45 mins. MMA or polyaspartic can be even less than that. Make sure you keep the products in a cool place as heat accelerates the curing. You don't want the products already warm when you apply them
Yes you can, although it would recommend that you reprime it first. Also make sure any areas that are damaged or peeling, are fixed first before recoating
It depends on the primer. I have used water based epoxy primers and it hasn't been a problem. But in the past a primer containing heavy solvents led to latex paint wrinkling
I just had a detached metal garage built and when the concrete floor was poured and power trowled, something happened and the slab looks like cake icing with little chips flaked off all over. Contractor said no problem we can sand it out. Well your talking 2000 sq ft, so now the building is complete and he met an epoxy floor guy out here to look at it and they came up with applying an epoxy floor. We are going to be using heavy equipment and tearing down ATV's and motorcycles will an epoxy floor withstand this type of abuse? The epoxy floor guy said he does't need to sand the surface he plans to just brush it with a chemical cleaner. Any advise?
Although I am not concrete guy that cake icing sounds like concrete laitance, which could have been caused if not the correct proportions of water were used in mixing the concrete. That top layer of cake icing needs to be removed. I am not sure if sanding is enough you may require shot-blasting or something a bit more hardcore. DO NOT apply any epoxy until this top crispy layer has been removed. Otherwise the epoxy will never last
Tami Schifflin it sounds like the contractor got on the floor to soon to start the Finnish. if it is to wet it will whip the "fat" of the concrete up and leave ridges. sounds like he messed up
There are a huge number of options you can do for this situation. The main thing you need to ask yourself is how long you want the floor to last. 1. If you don't grind the ridges out of the surface: A thin 30mil or less epoxy will not hide any of the unevenness. The ridges are weak points and will likely break off exposing concrete within a few weeks if not days. 2. You can grind the surface to remove the ledges: A 30 mil or less epoxy will stand up longer but will likely start to break down within a year or 2 from heavy equipment. 3. Use a clad epoxy system: resulting in a coating 1/4" thick that will withstand abuse and heavy machinery. Prep required is grinding and/or shot blasting (csp of 3 or greater). You will typically get 10 + years from this option. Either way - the ridges are weak spots, and personally would seek compensation to rectify the issue. (chemical wash as prep for epoxy is never recommended by reputable manufacturers)
LearnCoatings - Epoxy Flooring Training we did epoxy first time it was mixed wrong n not sticking to floor . so we ended up having buy another kit of epoxy. that went well until we put Thomson seal. turned out a disaster and now it still tacky n very sticky put a solution over to remove Thomson seal. but the floor looks horible tire tracks and foot traffic marks help !!!!!!
9 days after applying epoxy to basement floor, it's still not dry. It's sticky. I called the company, at first they said it wasn't mixed properly. I told them that wasn't true. We mixed according to directions. We also put a fan on it for 4 days. And for the past 3 days have a dehumidifier running. Don't know what else to do! Jamie, the rep I spoke to was suppose to email me papers to complete but I never received anything from him. Extremely poor customer service. Anyone have any ideas?
Likely reasons for sticky epoxy: 1. Did you use an electrical mixer ? (hand mixing does not work) 2. Improper use of proportions of the A and B component 3. Is the entire floor sticky or just in some areas - some areas means one pack was not mixed properly or it did not contain the B component.The entire area means there is a bigger problem at stakeHave a look at this article for more information learncoatings.com/wordpress/epoxy-disasters-common-mixing-mistakes-that-can-lead-to-curing-problems/
Paid someone to do my floors and he didn’t etch I’m thinking it wasn’t mixed well either .. my floors are extremely sticky!! And my shop opens in the morning!! How so I remove?
Thanks so much for this video, and all of your replies! We are right now grinding our old basement floor that had been previously painted, but it's been a bear to get all of the paint off. It's good to know a few hardened spots left is fine! Question, though, I was told to put a sealer down first before the primer. Is this necessary, or is that overkill?
I would say its overkill. Put one coat of primer and check to see if it is absorbed or not. If it is absorbed quickly, then just add a second coat of primer to make sure that you have a sealed surface. Good luck with the installation!
Cleaning the concrete with acid is very common in the US, but not many people do it anywhere else. There is nothing better than proper grinding to prepare the surface
Yes acid mostly when is a BARE CONCRETE! BETTER THAN GRINDING! GRINDING OR SANDING IS MAKING SURE PAINT WILL STICK TO CONCRETE BECAUSE YOU SCRATCHING THE CONCRETE AND PAINT HOLDS EASILY THAN SMOOTH SURFACE CONCRETE!
A primer is a coating that goes on before applying the paint or the epoxy. It serves multiple purposes: It helps with the adhesion, it seals the surface from bubbles and it can also help eliminate the micro-dust. Read this article for more information learncoatings.com/wordpress/five-reasons-why-you-should-always-be-priming-your-epoxy-floors/
I purchased my house about 2 years ago and still learning new things about it. It is a very large house with a basement that floods a lot. There was a sump pump put in so that the flooding is no longer there, but there are still leaks I can see from the concrete walls. The floor there in all the rooms are what appears to be normal tile you would find on many floors. But many are chipped and loose. I was thinking of removing the tiles and putting a coat of epoxy there and watched the video for that reason. Recently I was cleaning the sun room, the room in front behind the front door. While sweeping it, I saw chips of flat flakes and the picture on the video made me realize it must have been from an old epoxy coating. I've learned that epoxy is not good for humidity which is probably why the basement floors have tile on them. The garages in back of the house all have thick concrete floors that are in very good shape and there are no leaks there. There is a lot of rain here in Springfield, MO so I don't think I will be coating any floors with epoxy. Walking to the front of the house from outside, you have to climb stairs to the front door which makes that front room 6 or more feet above ground level. So it is dry in that room, except for a leak coming from the bottom of the front door after a good rain, which might explain the chipping epoxy layer on the floor. Thanks very much for bringing your video for me to help explain epoxy floor coatings.
I took almost a week prepping my shop floor. After 14 years it hasn't peeled, cracked or came up anywhere.
It is stained in several spots do to my neglect so i am in the process of prepping again prior to recoating
Hi, can I use self level on the concrete instead of grinding the concrete?
what is a good primer to use on concrete floor before using ROCK SOLID METALLIC EPOXY
Not needed. My rocksolid garage floor is over a year old and 100% looks as good as day one.
People need to understand that applying the epoxy is the easiest part of the project by far... prep...prep
*PREP* ...PREP is all the work.
totally agree with you on that one. Applying the epoxy is the glamorous part of the job, no one sees the messy part
I disagree with you, i spend 2 days prepping and cleaning my floor. My freshly applied epoxy looks like shit. Its full of orange perl from the rollers. Any ideas why? Im i using the wrong epoxy? I want my epoxy to look smooth and reflective, but its actually the oposite.
Use special epoxy rollers, not regular paint rollers. First use squeegee to do most of the work and then finish it with the special rollers, and if u take the roller and roll it over the tape good before you use it, it will also help with fibers.
oh and also spray the floor after it dries with denatured alcohol and wipe all that up and finish with a warm mop
As an epoxy floor applicator this is 1000% true PREP IS IMPORTANT
What about applying overtop self leveled cement
There is a proper epoxy resin specific for wooden floors with a primer filler to fill voids and it's all self leveling and then it has the top coat. And someone asked how to remove bubbles, that's what blow dryers and torch tools are for. It's important to continue checking surface temperatures as the product cures. Just select the proper epoxy resin for your specific project and research all you can about it and follow the instructions to avoid fails! Best of luck!
tessybraun can u share the product name of this epoxy? I have a bathroom project in mind.
What kind of primer should be used for epoxy flooring
2 component epoxy primers should be used. If you apply a high build coat on top I always recommend sprinkling some sand on the wet primer. For more information on priming watch this video th-cam.com/video/EqscZnJsvS4/w-d-xo.html
Please help me out with the methods or equipments by which we can clean the epoxy floors?
A machine with a rotating brush underneath should be fine. No need to buy the overpriced detergents that they sell. Basic cleaning detergent mixed with warm water does a good job
Hi and just wondering if you can add another thin layer of clear epoxy resin directly onto a floor that has being covered with clear epoxy resin about a week ago. Thank you.
it is possible but the main risk is bonding. Clear resin makes a very smooth and glassy surface that could cause cratering when you apply the next coating on top
I am having a problem with the second clear coat using H&C shield Crete kit from Sherwin-Williams. First coat was dried and clear, the second coat came out white and stays that way after 2 days.
Could you help with an idea how to fix it w/o removing the clear epoxy coat?
Don't know what may have caused it. You could find a corner and try sanding with a high grit paper like 300 or 500 and test to see what happens. You could also try recoating that area and see the results
Nice caution tips, thanks buddy!
thanks for your kind words!
Thank You Everybody for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.. Peace Shalom Salam Namaste 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ ☮ ❤ 🕊
Howdy ....
I have a corrugated steel shed on a slab of good concrete .
Can i use this stuff to raise and waterproof the inside floor by about 20mm ?
Tony.
No epoxy is only good up to 3mm. The cost is way too high for 20mm. You are better off looking at a self leveling cement
Can we recoat a freshly coated epoxy floor as the first coat was too thin and it has completely dried off?
Yes you can re-coat over the first coat. But what do you mean by dried off? Is it peeling?
LearnCoatings - Epoxy Flooring Training thanks. No not peeling, already applied the second coat and it’s looking good.
Our school had to have an asbestos abatement done on our concrete floors to remove absestos containing adhesive. At the end they applied some sort of oil product to encapsulate any possible particles that hadn't been removed or contained. Is there any type if epoxy type product that can be applied on this floor? I understand all the comments about floor prep, but we are truly limited in what we can do
You would need to look into a suitable primer that can act as a bridge between the oil floor and the epoxy. If you find the right primer then epoxy should be able to stick to that
which would be better for basketball court outdoor? It gets rained on a lot as well.
For outdoor sports floors,we tend to use acrylics, or aliphatic polyurethane floors
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 thank you!
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 Which would you recommend for a cement floor that doesn't have any covering on top? Our basketball lines go on top of the cement floor (cracked in some areas).
What do i need to put over wooden flooring to make epoxy suitable to adhere ?
I would recommend that instead of epoxy you use a more elastic coating like polyurethane. It will adhere to the wood and also be able to deal with the contractions
My garage floor was done about ten years ago and it’s time to do it again. If I pressure wash it, can I coat over it with the same epoxy?
Yes epoxy can be coated over. If it seems to be damaged you may want to apply a primer first just to be sure that it will bond properly. Power washing should help make the epoxy clean, but if there are cracks in the floor you may end up with trapped humidity
Is it possible to apply on white marble flooring directly..?
You must grind the marble and give it a good scratch. Marble is difficult for bonding as it is very glossy and lacks pores. On top of that apply a thin fluid epoxy primer that will bond well
OK.If I use the mixer I will ad bubbles and than what I do to eliminate those tine bubbles?
Let the mixed product sit for two minutes before starting the application. Many bubbles will burst. Also, If you are a applying a thick coating use a spiked roller to eliminate the bubbles. For thin film coatings, backrolling should eliminate any bubbles
MARCIO sborgi I
A torch can get rid of the bubbles. Just don't hold on it in one place or you'll burn the resin.
Sir, why do i have roller marks and roller texture on my epoxy floor? I mixed parts A&B and i did everything accordingly to specifications.
If you apply with a roller you will get roller texture. By backrolling you can improve the texture. Have a look at this video th-cam.com/video/wYbpu0-lC64/w-d-xo.html
If you want a perfectly smooth floor you need to do a self leveling epoxy applied with a trowel and spiked roller
I have already put down a hardener/resin epoxy but I dont think I mixed well enough as it has not cured in close to a week. What can I do to help it cure or what is the best next step?
best step is to clean up any uncured epoxy and wipe down with alcohol so all of the stickiness is gone. Once its dry, you should recoat
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 hello, I have a Similar issue. I didn't put enough hardener down and I have almost 25% of my garage is sticky after drying. Would I be able to put a clear coat epoxy down or would I need to scrape the bad up and wipe down with alcohol then recoat? Thank you
I am using a product Spartacote Polyaspartic. In your opinion should primer be used?
I have heard about polyaspartics not needing primer but I am very wary of not priming floors. I have a video where I explain the reasons why you should always prime th-cam.com/video/EqscZnJsvS4/w-d-xo.html
This will be perfect for the stripper floor im putting together
I am wanting epoxy/polycuramine a refridgerated chiller concrete floor. it is the size of 4 x 40ft containers. should i do in stages or make sure enough people on hand to do in one hit? Also, thank you for the video... i've watched a number where the epoxy bubbles up and don't think the food verifiers would be keen on this. Cheers Dean
Yes you are right about the food verifiers! They don't want to see any pores in the floor. 4X40ft is not that large of an area. If you have prior experience go do it in one hit. If you are inexperienced, you want to do one container first just so you look out for any problems
Can you do this over old ceramic tile?
have a look at this video for coating over tiles
th-cam.com/video/gRIoNyurzSM/w-d-xo.html
Thank you very much for this! Do you have recommendation what kind of materials to use ?
Dď
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 Interesting you say you can put this stuff over tiles, which are probably set to a wood floor, but you say no to wood floors. I have wood floors I am adding heat to. I will then have a strong boarded floor on top of that, then add the resin to it. I am doing the counters the same way with the resin.
on the sub floor would bag and box latex be ok for a smooth floor 4 prep to primer ?
not quite sure I understood your question. What do you mean by bag and box latex?
in the uk latex I have used is a bag 12.5 kg and 5lts liquid miw and spread smells of cats piss orrible
that's on a concrete floor
ok now I see, you mean like using a spreadable cement to level the surface and then you want to coat over it. Yes this is overall good solution, but it really depends on how much wear and tear your floor will be getting. If it is just a storage space with little traffic you should be fine. For heavier duty jobs I would advise checking to see what the mechanical resistance of such a product is
do you still need to grind if its a new concrete floor? Would it be better to have the concrete finishers leave the surface slightly rough, for new construction?
It is always advisable to grind & remove the top crust of a concrete floor even if it has been left slightly rough. Often you will find that the top crust is somewhat weaker and prone to cracks. Grinding the floor will immediately reveal any problems with the concrete
This guy is def correct
100percent correct advice
Thanks for such an elaborate info. Can epoxy be laid on already existing natural stone flooring?
Stone flooring is very difficult to bond with as the pores are not very friendly for epoxy. You would be better off using acrylic varnishes
I'm doing over the floor in a restaurant that somehow have 3 sets of ceramic tiles stacked onto the sub floor . It will cost too much to try to get that up and do the floors. We wanted the floor to be red. with the clear epoxy coating over it. We painted it already but wanted to do more research before we go ahead and lay it down. Now by looking around I didn't see much on that subject and want to know if I use the right epoxy primer by rolling it onto the ceramic tiles,(a few coats) will that be sufficient enough for the epoxy resin to bond?
You should grind/ sand/ blast the tiles in advance as you need to remove the ceramic varnish coating that covers the tiles. Once this coating is scratched then you can go ahead and apply the primer. I have another video here
th-cam.com/video/gRIoNyurzSM/w-d-xo.html
Is resins art epoxy flooring cause side effects or not?
You should wear a proper mask (FFP2 or above) during the application. But once cured there are no side effects
I want to epoxy my basement floor where I have a small woodworking shop. However, My basement floor has moisture beneath it. Years ago I installed a swimming pool resurfacer called Akona. It’s like paint with sand in it, almost like a stucco. It’s supposed to seal out moisture. However, wherever a plastic tub sat on the floor, after about a year, when I’d move it, I found just a little discoloration and a light grey mold, a very small amount. This told me that moisture was still coming up through the floor. So I bought a cement floor paint from Valspar that is designed to seal out moisture. It also had a sand in it. It worked. However, I’d like to install a more permanent product that will stand up to high traffic and wear and tear better. Can I install epoxy over this product without removing the previous two products? There will always be moisture under this concrete floor. If I remove the existing product, this floor will never be dry enough to install epoxy. What do you recommend?
Thanks for your very interesting video. I want to use epoxi on my slate floors in my patio. Do you think this will work?
If your patio is exposed to the sun I don't recommend epoxy as it will slowly go yellow and chalk
very good video! just a question, half of my garage floor has spalled, should I resurfaced it first entirely before epoxy-coating? I am looking to sakrete flo coat, do you think that'll be good if so?
Thank you! when you say spalled,has the epoxy cracked or is it a concrete issue? If the problem is widespread you should definitely consider fixing the whole thing before you re-surface. As for sakcrete I do not know thisbrand
Screed coat is better than epoxy coat.. better use epoxy hardener coat for garage and heavy movement area..
I'm going to diamond grind, degrease and etch to prep. I'm thinking about using Epoxy-Coat brand. Would you reccomend that or a big box store brand? Also, if I use Epoxy-Coat, should I prime it? The kit doesn't come with a primer.
I am not really familiar with brands available in the US so I can't comment on the products. However I am always in favour of priming the floor first, it will reduce the chance of peeling and will overall give a better gloss on the final result
Did the underfloor heating will harm epoxy floor?
Hello master . Thank you for the videos .I have a little projects in mind to do a wooden bathtub it's a challenge that I will need to study and learn from others and I will like to see what tipe of epoxy or what to use to make sure the bathtub it's seal and the water will stay inside and to make sure it's not going to crack or if it's even possible to do it?Any information will help . Thank you in advance Ben!
You need to use a flexible coating with the wooden bathtub. When the bathtub fills up with water, it will expand. You need coating that can follow the expansion. I doubt if Epoxy can handle it
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 How do you get tiles to expand then in a shower? The walls are stable in place.
What about screened in porches with concrete? Will the epoxy fail on a outdoor surface?
Yes it will fail because epoxy is not UV resistant. It will go yellow and start to chalk. Don't believe reps that claim otherwise. They will be long gone when the floor starts to yellow. You would need to use an aliphatic polyurethane product for outdoor applications
This video was so help full.
A question. Can I apply Epoxy on marble floor??
Thanks Rizwan, yes you can apply epoxy on marble although marble is notorious for poor bonding. Make sure you grind it well to remove any gloss, and apply a low viscosity primer to make sure it pentrates the pores of the marble
Thanks a lot. Non of the "tutorial " videos on TH-cam talked about primers or electric mixer.
you are welcome. Yes most tutorial videos are about advertising, they don't want to make it seem complicated
Great info! I have a question and I cant find a video that could help me. How do you prepare a old epoxy floor to re- epoxy it? do you just clean and sand lightly or do you have to remove old epoxy? (the old epoxy is not peeleng or chiping, its just faded)
Perhaps you haven't seen the Pros that make tutorial vids on it. Most of the ones I've seen have stressed the preping part, from making sure it's thoroughly clean, getting it primed properly, etc. and making sure the floor is leveled (which this should be added to the list IMO).
Nobody worth their weight primes before epoxy.
My garage floor has been previously painted, close to half has peeled off or wore off. It looks like somebody used latex paint on it but not sure. I'm going to strip it off, scrape, paint remover, acid etch, sand, clean. Any suggestions before applying Rustoleum pro epozy garage floor paint?,thank you
sounds like a soild approach, you may want to try if you can sand the paint off from the start so you avoid the paint stripper and etching
So if I have painted my linoleum bathroom floor, what do I seal it with?
Sorry I can't help you on that one, in general epoxy and linoleum should not be combined
How can I add glue to pre mixed epoxy paint
Why would you want to add glue? Epoxy is an adhesive
Great info for a newbie DIY guy .. thx
you're welcome!
Hi what about heating floor ? Or that epoxy good fo that or no ?
There are better floor coverings if you have heated floors. Epoxy is not great at thermal transmission, plus it does not have any elastic properties that can account for the changes in temperature
Edvinas Mieldazys
Edvinas Mieldazys I am adding a heating element under a wood floor, then doing the resin. Perhaps do not connect it to the walls. Leave space for the wood to move. I still have to screw the floor down though. I will ask around for those who use this resin stuff. Stone Cold Counters is good.
can i paint acrylic paint over old epoxy floor
I don't recommend it. You may have adhesion issues but most importantly acrylic paint on floors is very weak and it struggles with impact stress and wear
Is this safe as medically? AND is it cheaper and safe than tiless?
We put such products all the time for food and pharmaceutical manufacturing. So yes it is safe floors in such areas. Regarding the cost of tiles, it is impossible to compare this as both tiles and epoxy have massive variations in quality and specs
Great information. Thank you
Our basement floor has many layers of paint, do we have to grind it completely off before we apply the epoxy? In other words, how do we prepare a painted floor before we apply the epoxy paint?
It depends on the condition. If the paint is in good condition and not peeling you could prime on top. However if it cracked and falling apart you want to grind it of with a sanding or a grinding machine
Bom vídeo ! Bem explicado 👍🏼👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
we mixed with mixer attached to electric drill according to the directions. at this point i only want to know if there's anything i can put over it to eliminate the sticky surface. someone said to sprinkle silica sand on it. have you heard of this?
sprinkling sand will reduce the stickiness but it will still be a sticky floor and the sand will not be very sturdy. The best solution would be remove the sticky part with a scraper, wipe with solvent and re-coat
I have 1 inch oak ply, very solid, stained and polyurethaned. Do you think it might work on that? It's not flexible to me.
Epoxy on polyurethane can be quite difficult in bonding. You should definitely apply an epoxy primer first to ensure good adhesion
is possible to lay epoxy floor on the granite floor ( without remove it) ?
granite is a very difficult surface to bond with. You will need to diamond grind it, and make sure you get a good scratched profile. Then proceed by using a strong low viscosity epoxy primer than can penetrate the surface
Jayasree AR to
I had someone put epoxy on my garage floor the first time he did it was sticky for a few days and peeled in 3 or four places under tires. He came and fixed a few areas and now recently 1 area peeled off the floor. What’s the solution? Any advice is much appreciated
If it's is just one area you could try doing a local patch job. But if you feel that the whole floor is slowly failing and that it will be one never ending patch job after the other then you may need to strip the old floor and do a recoat
Can I apply epoxy over an old brick floor?
you could, but do not use it for heavy traffic as the brick will fail. Bricks tend to be quite soft
What preparation is neccessary if I want to convert my wood subfloor to epoxy. I don't have a concrete floor.
Applying on wood is tricky as wood tends to contract and expand. This could lead to future cracking of the epoxy. I know that some people apply a primer first and then apply the epoxy. I would advise thin layers of epoxy, thick layers are more likely to crack
If you have any flex when you're walking on your wood, then you should put another layer of plywood down. I have used flexible epoxy before on wood (right after primer) then went over that with the rest of the floor... Not sure if it really does anything, but my boss had me throw fiberglass into the floor as well, and also not fun either to flatten your floor out again afterwards. And your itchy the rest of the project.
Thanks very much! Great info for diy’er!
Glad you like them!
When epoxying over a painted garage floor. Should it always be diamond ground? Do you need complete removal of the previous layer of paint or can I prime over this?
If the paint is in tact and not peeling you can prime over. If it is peeling you should assess if it is a localized problem. If the peeling is everywhere you try grinding it as much as possible
Are there Primers for the floor that will keep the old contaminants in the cement from ever interacting with the epoxy finish? If so, what are they? Who makes a good primer product for epoxy floor finishes? Should the concrete be sanded with a floor finisher or etched with acid?
Yes there are primers for the floor tht are better at blocking oils and contaminants. However there is not one guaranteed product that will block all contaminants. Also regarding a good primer it really depends on the substrate in question. A porous substrate requires a thicker primer while a dense concrete floor requires a low viscosity primer that will penetrate the substrate
2 yr. Old epoxy gives out odors, it always has since new. It's in my bedroom. My beds shape got printed to it in a yellow color. I got pearl white epoxy.. any idea
I followed the instructions step by step
Still gives off odors after 2 years? Doesn't sound good. Most likely causes 1) the epoxy never cured properly, so there is some excess chemical that gives off the odour. Also this could be the cause of dirt pickup and the yellowing. 2) Does the room get much sunlight? I am wondering if UV chalking may have something to do with it
No sun light. At all. I used elite Crete products. They didn't give me a vapor blocker, I know cause the guy said it wasn't that important.
I am a biologist, epoxy must be I think hardened with blue laser. Poor quality of epoxy.
I am very experienced with epoxy and mixed some epoxy by a manufacturer mentioned. I mixed in correct ratio and properly- it smells still after 6 weeks. I've never seen this before and would normally say user erroor bit in thius case I know the p product is still smelly 6 weeks on.
I have never heard applying primer to the surface before applying epoxy if that's is true so what type of primer should I use???
use a suitable epoxy primer thats compatibe with the epoxy topcoat
Ely Portoy
Ely Portoy Try Stone Coat Counter tops. They have videos in here.
Do I really need a humidity membrane before applying metellic epoxy?
I don't use one, but then again I work in low humdity environments
would you ever recommend to do a humidity test I found that if you are above 80% you should apply damp membrane is that true? Thank you
Can you just lay the diamond mesh sheeting on the concrete and apply the epoxy to that? Seems like a that would make it bond strong enough.
A diamond mesh sheet would definitely make the tensile strength of the floor very strong. However for bonding you would still need to do priming and somehow attach the sheet to the floor before coating. Also you would need significant quantities of epoxy to completely cover the mesh sheet. All this of course is hypothetical as I have never tried it for a floor.
Can this epoxy be applied on a heated floor?
You can apply it, but personally I prefer PU based coatings for heated floors. They are more flexible and can adjust better to the changes in temperature
LearnCoatings - Epoxy Flooring Training thank you very much for your answer.
Iosif-Crin Borsos (
Is there is any side effects from epoxy to our health
When applying epoxy, it is always advisable to wear a mask to avoid inhaling the fumes, as the smell can trigger irritation. There is no long term evidence of linking epoxy to serious diseases like cancer, but gloves and masks are always advisable
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 thanks for ur valued reply ..
In two places on my epoxy garage floor, a long running line, like a narrow ridge, has formed under the epoxy. One is about two feet long and the other is three of four feet long. What could have caused this?. The epoxy was professionally done a year ago and looks good otherwise. It is the epoxy with the flakes.
Could these be old floor joints that became visible due to the summer heat expansion? Otherwise these could be cracks in the floor that became visible again due to hotter temperatures
No wood ? Then What is used on those tabletops ?
no wood for floors... as the stress and the expansion will be too much for floor to handle. But for countertops it's different. Here the area size is very small, and all the stress is much less
LearnCoatings - Epoxy Flooring Training Could a cement coating be put over the top of a wood substrate and epoxy applied over it?
Thanks for the warning about wood. I was going to diy an epoxy floor in my RV before this
Samat Teberdi
Samat Teberdi I am still doing it to my floors. I am adding heating between my wood. I can't have a cement floor in my house as it sits up on cinder blocks. It already has a wood floor. I need to add the heat between the floor and the top wood floor. I am going to add the resin and see what happens. If it cracks, add more resin.
I have a floor that has hairline cracks in it. They are getting worse but I can't afford a new floor! What product can I use to repair or "fill" the cracks? I think the resin is cracking because the screed underneath it is.
what floor is it? epoxy, concrete? You could try using an epoxy putty, or use clear epoxy resin mixed with sand to fill it
Weird question, could a apoxy coating work on a drum shell?
You would need an epoxy coating suitable for metal surfaces. Floor epoxies will tend to be break or crack on metal
@@learncoatings-epoxyfloorin9448 thank you for your reply, drum shell as in perussion drum sets in other words on wood.
What is the better way? Tile or e poxy reply soon nowadays i think about this thing
This not a one or the other decision. Both tiles and epoxy have their place in flooring. You need to decide what's best based on your needs and the existing conditions
It’s 90% in the prep and moisture levels. 👍
9. In case of too low or too hot temperature of substrate / climate
true that can be an issue, especially at this time of the year!
I am planning on doing the floors in my house downstairs. The base floor is 1940 wood. I am adding heating element on that. It will have the orange holder under it, then tile compound to hold the wires in place. Then good board will be screwed down every foot, so it will not move or shift. They will be sanded prior to adding the resin. If it is a success, I will let people know.
And how it holds up. I am doing my bathroom counters and kitchen ones as well.
I believe there are different types of resin for floors and counters. I plan on asking the professionals where I get the stuff from. Counters are attached too to cabnets. The wood underneath should shift and crack too if what you say is so. How is a floor any different than a counter.
Floors differ in the sense that they have much bigger strains of weight and shifts in load than a counter has. People walking or furniture being moved can cause major expansions and contractions if you have wood underneath
I just did a garage floor with a new product. And the product flashed and hardened within an hour. Giving me no time at all to work with it why would it do that???
Most epoxies have a pot life of 40-45 mins. MMA or polyaspartic can be even less than that. Make sure you keep the products in a cool place as heat accelerates the curing. You don't want the products already warm when you apply them
Can you reapply to epoxy floor on epoxy floor which has been battered other time and looks tired ?
Yes you can, although it would recommend that you reprime it first. Also make sure any areas that are damaged or peeling, are fixed first before recoating
What if you have a new concrete floor.
Do you still need to clean it?
no not necessary to clean it, but make sure it has pores to allow the primer to penetrate. If the concrete is glossy you may need to grind it first
Can the epoxy primer be applied over a concrete floor that's been grinded but has spots of latex paint on it?
It depends on the primer. I have used water based epoxy primers and it hasn't been a problem. But in the past a primer containing heavy solvents led to latex paint wrinkling
I just had a detached metal garage built and when the concrete floor was poured and power trowled, something happened and the slab looks like cake icing with little chips flaked off all over. Contractor said no problem we can sand it out. Well your talking 2000 sq ft, so now the building is complete and he met an epoxy floor guy out here to look at it and they came up with applying an epoxy floor. We are going to be using heavy equipment and tearing down ATV's and motorcycles will an epoxy floor withstand this type of abuse? The epoxy floor guy said he does't need to sand the surface he plans to just brush it with a chemical cleaner. Any advise?
Although I am not concrete guy that cake icing sounds like concrete laitance, which could have been caused if not the correct proportions of water were used in mixing the concrete. That top layer of cake icing needs to be removed. I am not sure if sanding is enough you may require shot-blasting or something a bit more hardcore. DO NOT apply any epoxy until this top crispy layer has been removed. Otherwise the epoxy will never last
Tami Schifflin it sounds like the contractor got on the floor to soon to start the Finnish. if it is to wet it will whip the "fat" of the concrete up and leave ridges. sounds like he messed up
Tami Schifflin
also too much water in the mix. it may make for easy placement , but it makes for weak concrete .
There are a huge number of options you can do for this situation. The main thing you need to ask yourself is how long you want the floor to last.
1. If you don't grind the ridges out of the surface: A thin 30mil or less epoxy will not hide any of the unevenness. The ridges are weak points and will likely break off exposing concrete within a few weeks if not days.
2. You can grind the surface to remove the ledges: A 30 mil or less epoxy will stand up longer but will likely start to break down within a year or 2 from heavy equipment.
3. Use a clad epoxy system: resulting in a coating 1/4" thick that will withstand abuse and heavy machinery. Prep required is grinding and/or shot blasting (csp of 3 or greater). You will typically get 10 + years from this option.
Either way - the ridges are weak spots, and personally would seek compensation to rectify the issue.
(chemical wash as prep for epoxy is never recommended by reputable manufacturers)
Listen to Phaizer. I'm in to tall agreement with him and anyone that really has the right thing to do for you in heart will agree,
Is this available in pakistan? AND how much this price?
It should be available, but price depends on many things like substrate, thickness, intended use etc
Thanks for ur precious rplys.....
can you epoxy over wood or does it need to be concrete
not recommended. Wood has humidity and is also quite flexible. Epoxy is hard and is sensitive to humidity. You could end up getting cracking
Dont woodworkers make tables out of epoxy all the time? Is there a difference in floor epoxy?
How to grind corners?
Its best to do it with a small angle grinder
Thank you for the video
what about re coating a floor that has been scratched ????
yes you can do that. You may need to slightly sand it, wipe it clean and then re-coat
LearnCoatings - Epoxy Flooring Training
LearnCoatings - Epoxy Flooring Training we did epoxy first time it was mixed wrong n not sticking to floor . so we ended up having buy another kit of epoxy. that went well until we put Thomson seal. turned out a disaster and now it still tacky n very sticky put a solution over to remove Thomson seal. but the floor looks horible tire tracks and foot traffic marks help !!!!!!
Congratulations for this and other of your videos.
Thank you Mario for your kind words
that was very helpful, thank you
thanks!
Thank you for the really concise and clear instructions vid. That's going to really change my life!:D
Don't they make flex epoxy for a wood subfloor?
The best option is to get a polyurethane based coating which is by nature more flexible
9 days after applying epoxy to basement floor, it's still not dry. It's sticky. I called the company, at first they said it wasn't mixed properly. I told them that wasn't true. We mixed according to directions. We also put a fan on it for 4 days. And for the past 3 days have a dehumidifier running. Don't know what else to do! Jamie, the rep I spoke to was suppose to email me papers to complete but I never received anything from him. Extremely poor customer service. Anyone have any ideas?
Likely reasons for sticky epoxy:
1. Did you use an electrical mixer ? (hand mixing does not work)
2. Improper use of proportions of the A and B component
3. Is the entire floor sticky or just in some areas - some areas means one pack was not mixed properly or it did not contain the B component.The entire area means there is a bigger problem at stakeHave a look at this article for more information
learncoatings.com/wordpress/epoxy-disasters-common-mixing-mistakes-that-can-lead-to-curing-problems/
Sharon remillard scrub with acetone and re seal
Thank you for vlogging
Good Info!!!
Should I stain instead...???
Good question. I love epoxies, and its my job. I am just warning people of the possible risks involved if the job is not done correctly
thank you very much better extent explain epoxy
Glad it was helpful!
Paid someone to do my floors and he didn’t etch I’m thinking it wasn’t mixed well either .. my floors are extremely sticky!! And my shop opens in the morning!! How so I remove?
Floors will take 1 to 2 days to dry. If they are sticky after that you have a problem. You will need to remove with scrapers and solvent
Ok thank you
One more question is it possible to add a 2nd coat after dry time?
yes its possible, should bond pretty well with the first coat
Can I just paint right over it w/o sanding it !
Super info thank you
thanks for your kind words!
Thanks so much for this video, and all of your replies! We are right now grinding our old basement floor that had been previously painted, but it's been a bear to get all of the paint off. It's good to know a few hardened spots left is fine! Question, though, I was told to put a sealer down first before the primer. Is this necessary, or is that overkill?
I would say its overkill. Put one coat of primer and check to see if it is absorbed or not. If it is absorbed quickly, then just add a second coat of primer to make sure that you have a sealed surface. Good luck with the installation!
happy to watch & learn the process.. Good information.
thanks, much appreciated
Helpful. Thanks
Thanks
Wait i been told to clean the concrete with acid just for that to clean the grease oil etc stains .
Cleaning the concrete with acid is very common in the US, but not many people do it anywhere else. There is nothing better than proper grinding to prepare the surface
Yes acid mostly when is a BARE CONCRETE! BETTER THAN GRINDING!
GRINDING OR SANDING IS MAKING SURE PAINT WILL STICK TO CONCRETE BECAUSE YOU SCRATCHING THE CONCRETE AND PAINT HOLDS EASILY THAN SMOOTH SURFACE CONCRETE!
Please explain me what you mean as primer. Thanks for the information.
A primer is a coating that goes on before applying the paint or the epoxy. It serves multiple purposes: It helps with the adhesion, it seals the surface from bubbles and it can also help eliminate the micro-dust. Read this article for more information learncoatings.com/wordpress/five-reasons-why-you-should-always-be-priming-your-epoxy-floors/