Jahn Concrete Formwork System Part 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- This is the third and final video in the Jahn formwork intro series.
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Great videos! I needed a refresher on the Jahn Snaptie system, and this is by the far the best video I was able to find. Very thorough and detailed. I would love to see a video on forming the wall and footings simultaneously, so they can be poured together (for 4 foot or shorter walls). Thanks again. Keep them coming.
I do want to do a video on that. It is a great option for smaller projects and I used to do it to avoid calling out concrete trucks and pumps multiple times.
You can't do snap tie walls without pouring a footing first the inspectors doesn't want stakes in the footing. Also much harder if you want to do that then just use two by twelves and strong ties.
Thank you so much! This is so helpful
THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO.......YOUR FORM WORK SKILLS ARE VERY BASIC.......AND I WOULD SAY IMMATURE.......YOU @UT THE FIRST 2X4 HORIZONTAL SITTING ON THE METAL BRACKET.......THEN WHEN YOU TURN THE CORNER.......TURN THE METAL BRACKET U@ SIDE DOWN.......ATTACH THE 2X4 U@ UNDER THE METAL BRACKET.......NOW YU WILL GO UNDER THE FIRST 2X4.......EXTEND THE 2X4 ENDS 2 FEET BEYOND THE @LY WOOD.......NOW YOU WILL @UT 2 DOUBLE HEAD 16 @ENNY NAILS TOATTACH BOTH 2X4S TOGETHER.......THE REASON YOU MAKE THE 2X4S 2 FEET LONGER THAN THE @LY WOOD IS NOW YOU ATTACH VERTICLE 2X4SON THE OUTSIDE OF THE HORIZONTAL 2X4S.......NOW YOUR FORM WORK WILL NOT BLOW OUT.......IF YOU DID FORM WORK FOR CONCRETE ON MY JOB LIKE YOU DID IN THIS VIDEO.......IWOULD HAVE SENT YOU HOME.......BECAUSE IT WILL BLOW OUT.......THANK YOUB FOR THIS VIDEO.......TO TEACH THE VIEWERS HOW NOT TO FORM A CONCRETE WALL.......IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND @LEASE CALL ME AND I WILL GO INTO MORE DETAIL.......931 829 3344.......I HAVE BEEN DOING CONCRETE FORM WORK 55 YEARS
All that talking about how you don't want to hammer it in case that vibrates the locks loose, then you hammer it a whole lot in a situation that a clamp could have fixed. Lol.
Yeah thank you so much. But would it be any help if I use screws instead of nails..?
Geez dude, who actually uses 16 penny nails and a hammer anymore????
Best video on this system out there, thank you for making it.
Make a video on what to keep in your tool belt for concrete forming
I'll gladly sell you Jahn-C brackets! Nice vid.
Are the plywood ties consumed in the process of the concrete pour ?
Love it. You have a great demeanor. You would be great to work with.
Thanks for useful tip and detailed information.
This is called a Snap-tie wall
i mean in europe we do it different
This a joke, right?
For a 4 foot high wall would you recommend strongbacks. Or is a waler system without strongback alone sufficient?
how is that martinez hammer? I've seen your review. I'm wondering if the handle is long enough or if its as short as it looks
So far I love it. The fact that the head is all steel makes me feel less like I have to baby it than a full titanium head. As far as the overall length, it is about a half inch shorter than the Stiletto TB II, and the same length as the DeWalt 14oz. mig weld hammer. Thanks for checking out our videos!
@@DanSarahMakers thank you. I currently use the dewalt 14oz migweld
Just used your video to make sure I have ready knowledge of the Jahn C so that I can build a giant underground vault for a switch gear at a WTP. Thank you!
We ALWAYS rip the plywood fillers WITH the Grain (Stregnth Axis) not across the grain. In your case 8” & 6 3/4” rips. 🤨
You can also put your bottom 2x4 and attach your hair pins not too tight though , so you can avoid the vibration and knocking loose those hair pins and it will hold both 2x4s steady so you can get those 16 doubles in without a problem.
Dan, a very thorough demonstration of this system. Thanks.
No strong backs or braces.use increments of 16 even for bulkheads so they can be re used to align with the cups\brackets on next pour. Clamps are unneeded
are you those 2x4 nailed to the plywoods or screwd?
Well done. I learned and I learned quickly. Cheers and Thanks.
Great videos! Thank you. Going to subscribe and check out your other ones.
am a bit unsure about this,i can see some potentional problems
Love this method How can I get these ties and brackets to buy
If you could put the link up so we can buy some of them
From a professional stand. You made great video . explained everything . i use this system all the time. I just use wedges on the soldiers on the 7.25 long end snap ties instead of the jahn C clamps.
Yep. The wedges work great. Solid steal easy to put together also. I love em.
how high can you go with this system
Nail gun and then hammer ?🙈
Great information! Can you do a video on footings, attaching the forms to the footing, pouring footings and walls in one pour vs separately?
I am in the planning and permiting phase for a small cabin right now that will hopefully start this coming Spring once the snow melts and the ground thaws. I will be doing just that with a monolithic placement of footings and walls.
Those duplex nailers are the jam, we've gone to the cordless ones at this point but the other ones are awesome also
Are you using the Metabo HPT cordless duplex nailers? Those are the only ones I know of for now.
Im just going to buy some 12 inch long hex bolts and use 1/2 pvc as spacers, pass the bolt though the pvc and they get reused then just patch the pvc holes after.
how did that work?
Let us know if you manage to get the pvc out as well.
@@tealkerberus748 no the pvc remains embedded and cannot be removed.
So underrated
How u anchor down the bottom plate to concrete?
Several different ways, the cheapest and no special tools or parts way it to drill a 3/16" hole through the 2x bottom plate into the footing or slab and stick one or two pieces of tie wire into the hole all the way to the bottom and then drive a 16d duplex nail into the same hole. Another way is to use 1/4" reusable forming spikes. They look like oversized duplex nails with a little offset bend at the end. Finally, Hilti makes special nails for their powder actuated nailers that secure down 2x material that has a weakened spot in them so that they break off just below the concrete footing when you strip the forms, much like a snaptie.
Thanks
Super informative video series
Thanks! I hope to have a real foundation to feature this next year on the channel!
Could you show how to do the rebar?
Funny you should ask, I am working on a new project right now with 8' walls and rebar. I will have the videos starting to come out in a couple of weeks!
🤦🏻♂️
Thanks man
You're welcome!
What determines if you go with a single waler or doubles? And do guys ever use screws instead of nails?
Justin, with the Jahn system, the 2 x 4 walers are stronger than the ties themselves so if dbl. walers were needed, the ties would probably start to break during the placement. I have seen crews try to strengthen their forms by placing additional walers in between the walers supported by the ties and Jahn brackets but these are only supported by the strong backs and in turn are actually placing additional stress on the ties that are supporting the strong backs. If the placement rate needs to be greater than a 16"x16" tie spacing can safely support, then maybe a 12"x12" tie spacing should be calculated and if safe, used. If not, then a different type of forming system may be called for.
As for screws, most drywall and decking type screws are hardened and brittle compared to nails. I would not recommend them in any shear application, side to side, but they would probably work in a tensile or compressive loading, in line with the screw. A concrete vibrator can induce loads that can blow out forms if not used properly and brittle screws can "un-zip" in a cascade failure once one breaks. Nails on the other hand can slowly bend as the forms slide apart in a worst case situation.
Hope this helps!
Hell no carpenters always wanna use screws NAILS ALL THE WAY. Trying to strip forms with screws is hell on earth they get filled up with concrete
@@likeaboss860 I'm a concrete foreman for the past 20 years. We switched to straight screws about 5 years ago. Duplex orange 1/4" hex head screws. Super easy to strip.
@@jdelapaz14 Those are pretty slick brother but why don't they fit thu a concrete stake
@@likeaboss860 The 2 inch fit no problem and the 3 inch fit tight. Reverse drill a little then forward and it's also no problem.
Crazy how the cement masons can put up twice the square footage of wall as the carpenters.
Explain in detail because I have put up some pretty tall walls.
Thanks for these videos. Very interesting.
I was wondering about the removal of the snap ties? Or do you keep them in the concrete?
Do you take the boards off after a few hours, remove snap ties then smooth out the sides before the concrete completely hardens?
The ends of the snap ties are removed after the concrete has a chance to cure for a couple of days by either twisting the ends with a special tool or pipe wrench, or simply bending the ends back and forth. The removal of the formwork should take place a couple of days after placement also. It will help retain the moisture in the concrete and support it during the initial cure. If you want a very smooth wall, you can use an HDO form plywood in place of regular plywood and after the forms are removed you can do what is called "sacking" the wall. It is almost like the process of finishing drywall but with a grout mixture to fill in any small air pockets. Removing the forms too soon and there is a good chance that the wall would sag or crumble.
@@DanSarahMakers thank you.