A little mantra that my late mentor George Mason told me about adjusting the clutch is this comment;- Time slips past! Now this works like this, the clutch works in a clockwise direction & when it slips it virtually means that a slipping clutch is adjusted by going back against time to make it grip again. Sounds silly till you really think about it ok???
Make sure you read and use Norms Technicalities before working on the Velo clutch if using mismatched parts or pain will ensure theres just to many different parts.
Interesting Video - However I fitted bonded friction plates to my Venom clutch and they were a a disaster ! The bike never ran as it used to - and I lost the top-end power. I eventually realised that my clutch was slipping - on this 'journey' I replaced the 18 spring holder with a 20 spring version as fitted to the Thruxton and I also converted the release bearing from a ball race to rollers - as you have done. However - eventually I realised that the bonded clutch places were the problem and I reverted back to the standard cork insert plates - and 'bingo' I got my old bike back ! - She flew !! I have spoken since with other Velo men and they suggested that the bonded plates do not work in a wet clutch - they are only good for use without the oil bath primary chain case - running dry.
Hi Peter , thanks for your comments and for watching. Every Velocette clutch seam to have its own problem, we have had great success with the bonded plates . It’s good news that you have sorted your clutch . If you could email me a photo of your bike I would like to put in one of my videos. Thanks Chris castrahan@hotmail.com
Thanks Alan , I’m guilty of leaving the centre nut loose as l thought if I tightened it right up on the springs it wouldn’t allow the clutch to separate . It is the very early type with 64 round corks in the chain wheel . Now back to the beer fridge . Cheers Ian
Thanks for the great explaination. I have a newly acquired '54 MSS Velo with the KTT Belt Drive setup. I could not get the clutch to release fully despite performing the procedure detailed in the workshop manual. I took it all apart and found the previous owner had installed 7/8" springs for earlier bikes instead of the 1-1/18" springs listed in the parts list for all the 9-plate clutch setups. Could this account for the issues I was having? I have correct springs on order.
I have an issue with my MAC where the clutch is dragging but only a little. Whilst I don't have any problem starting it, some slip can be felt occasionally when kicking it over. Do you think this could be a sign of worn plates? Thank you btw, these videos are invaluable 👍
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This is fantastic! Thanks so much for posting - I am rebuilding a mac and this is invaluable!
No problem , hopefully next week we will have a video on the cam timing
Loving these vids Al !!
Thanks for watching
A little mantra that my late mentor George Mason told me about adjusting the clutch is this comment;-
Time slips past! Now this works like this, the clutch works in a clockwise direction & when it slips it
virtually means that a slipping clutch is adjusted by going back against time to make it grip again.
Sounds silly till you really think about it ok???
Make sure you read and use Norms Technicalities before working on the Velo clutch if using mismatched parts or pain will ensure theres just to many different parts.
Thanks for your message. Your 100% right. So many velo clutch’s don’t work
Interesting Video - However I fitted bonded friction plates to my Venom clutch and they were a a disaster ! The bike never ran as it used to - and I lost the top-end power. I eventually realised that my clutch was slipping - on this 'journey' I replaced the 18 spring holder with a 20 spring version as fitted to the Thruxton and I also converted the release bearing from a ball race to rollers - as you have done. However - eventually I realised that the bonded clutch places were the problem and I reverted back to the standard cork insert plates - and 'bingo' I got my old bike back ! - She flew !! I have spoken since with other Velo men and they suggested that the bonded plates do not work in a wet clutch - they are only good for use without the oil bath primary chain case - running dry.
Hi Peter ,
thanks for your comments and for watching. Every Velocette clutch seam to have its own problem, we have had great success with the bonded plates . It’s good news that you have sorted your clutch . If you could email me a photo of your bike I would like to put in one of my videos. Thanks Chris
castrahan@hotmail.com
Thanks Alan , I’m guilty of leaving the centre nut loose as l thought if I tightened it right up on the springs it wouldn’t allow the clutch to separate . It is the very early type with 64 round corks in the chain wheel . Now back to the beer fridge . Cheers Ian
Nup, doesn't work like that mate... always spring collar up tight.
Great video. 👍
Thanks Russ
Thanks for the great explaination. I have a newly acquired '54 MSS Velo with the KTT Belt Drive setup. I could not get the clutch to release fully despite performing the procedure detailed in the workshop manual. I took it all apart and found the previous owner had installed 7/8" springs for earlier bikes instead of the 1-1/18" springs listed in the parts list for all the 9-plate clutch setups. Could this account for the issues I was having? I have correct springs on order.
Hi , send me an email and we will get back to you to you asap.
castrahan@hotmail.com
I have an issue with my MAC where the clutch is dragging but only a little. Whilst I don't have any problem starting it, some slip can be felt occasionally when kicking it over. Do you think this could be a sign of worn plates? Thank you btw, these videos are invaluable 👍
Hey Dan , send me an email and I will give you a phone number. castrahan@hotmail.com.
Thanks Chris
Sounds like incorrect adjustment - check that first BY THE BOOK!
Hi Chris , do you have a email that I can send you thru some photos . Cheers Ian
Hey Ian , castrahan@hotmail.com
are you speaking english