How to Hinge Floating Artwork | Mat board Hinging Framing Techniques

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ย. 2012
  • go.masterframeracademy.com/ad... How to fix artworks onto the mat board or backing board when you have a deckled edge. Learn more picture framing techniques with our free video training...just visit the link above.
    Sometimes you need to see the edges of a picture like when you are float framing an original watercolor on handmade paper or a papyrus. You can use a variety of hinging methods to fix the artwork in position. Some framers use a V Hinge but pendulum hinging through a bevel slot cut in the mat backing in a reversible technique that has a lot of uses in mounting art works.
    The three common picture frame hinging methods are T Hinging, V Hinging and Pendulum hinging.
    All of these methods have specific uses and it is good to become familiar with what method best suits your framing project.
    Hinges can be made from Japanese tissue paper and then bonded with Starch paste or Methyl Cellulose Paste. Match the weight of the hinging tissue (often Kozo or Mulberry fibers) with the strength requirement of the artwork. Always choose a weaker hinge so that if the picture falls off the wall or gets another violent shock the hinge breaks first before the artwork is damaged.
    Visit the fixaframe blog pages for more framing insights and please share our content with your friends. If you enjoy any of the videos we make please give us a "Thumbs Up" Thanks, David
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ความคิดเห็น • 58

  • @drewd9985
    @drewd9985 8 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    For a person not working from a script, that was very nicely explained.

    • @Endurart
      @Endurart  8 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks Drew, sometimes my explanations get a bit long winded but working in the industry and training picture framers regularly sometimes deliverers a smooth result. Sometimes not so. Thanks for your comment. Best regards, David Schummy

  • @Endurart
    @Endurart  11 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks RocktheGlassHouse. Will be posting more framing tips soon. Thank you, David Schummy

  • @JustJimWillDo
    @JustJimWillDo 8 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Excellent! I have a project that I've been putting off because of precisely this problem. I had thought I would have to use spray adhesive but this is a much preferred solution. Thanks for the idea.

  • @saramoons4074
    @saramoons4074 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    So incredibly helpful- this is the first video I've found explaining this process! Thank you for taking the time to make this video!

    • @Endurart
      @Endurart  4 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Thank you.

  • @Endurart
    @Endurart  11 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks Greg, There are many more to come. Plus some pro-framing training we've got going into a new website at the moment. Will let you know when it is available. Thanks again for the positive feedback. Kind regards, David Schummy

  • @paulamccarty8900
    @paulamccarty8900 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    just finished using this slit mat method. Love it. Thank you.

    • @Endurart
      @Endurart  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      You're so welcome!

  • @downeybill
    @downeybill 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    great strategy, definitely will use this!

  • @CKartshoppe
    @CKartshoppe 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    This was wonderful and educational!

  • @jibba0202
    @jibba0202 10 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Thank you so much. This helped me out a great deal :)

    • @Endurart
      @Endurart  10 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks jibba02, Your positive feedback is much appreciated. I just did a live training on artwork hinging for the framers club. You can still register and access the replay. Its at liveat.framersclub ******/artwork-fixing-and-hinging if you want to get e few more tips. I broadcast a live training every 2nd Saturday of the month for members and invited guests. register on the free-video-training link on main channel page to be notified of next months training or get on earlybird list at master framer academy. Thanks again. Kind regards, David

  • @londonphotographer
    @londonphotographer 11 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Bugging the hell out of me this floating business, I have tried a few methods and with the change of humidity in the UK (Yes! Even here!) I had customers roll back in with 'dropped' pieces of work. I shall try your system out, thanks for sharing!

  • @Endurart
    @Endurart  11 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks Ellikot123. I'll add your request to our to do list and when I have an opportunity to demonstrate the paper-cut mounting I'll be sure to film it. Thanks again, David

  • @andryeanatkin1440
    @andryeanatkin1440 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    That was the best video! Lots of useful information. Clear and straight to the point; articulate. And great camera work! Just what i was looking for. I learned exactly what needed and LOVE the slot idea. That makes so much sense. It’s simple, easy and clever. Thank you

    • @Endurart
      @Endurart  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks Andryea, Glad the video helped you with your framing. If you ever have a framing challenge or need extra help you can contact me via the fixaframe.com.au website or there is a whole lot of training content inside the framersclub.com members area. Kind regards, David Schummy

  • @rsundberg
    @rsundberg 10 ปีที่แล้ว

    Fabulous, Just what I needed to know. Well done for clarity and use of time.

    • @Endurart
      @Endurart  10 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks rsundberg. Glad the video helped you frame your pictures. Best regards, David Schummy

  • @pwillowilliams
    @pwillowilliams 11 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great informative video - many thanks for sharing.

  • @annabelleminkova1620
    @annabelleminkova1620 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    So helpful thank you!

  • @Endurart
    @Endurart  11 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks Adrian. You can always use a water-based gummed acid free tape on the heavier works or the preferred Japanese tissue paper affixed with starch paste. You will get the odd item dropping but generally they seem to hold quite well. One good thing is the adjustment is easy and if you need to get the art off at a later stage you are not fiddling around under the picture but rather on the back of the mounting board. BTW I'm launching two pro training sites soon FrameROCKET & MasterFramerAcademy

  • @killiansred40
    @killiansred40 11 ปีที่แล้ว

    i like watching your techniques very good

  • @tinahamilton9058
    @tinahamilton9058 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Very clever!

  • @ForestScamp
    @ForestScamp 10 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Beautiful tip, tanky

  • @Argyll9846
    @Argyll9846 11 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good one mate!

  • @brokenlizard2
    @brokenlizard2 9 ปีที่แล้ว

    thank you for sharing--this seems like a very useful method for me soon :D

    • @DavidAntalSchummy
      @DavidAntalSchummy 9 ปีที่แล้ว

      Raven Jones Thanks Raven, hope it helps with your projects. Best regards, David Schummy

  • @hudsonmarsh2964
    @hudsonmarsh2964 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    This is great information thank you! Just one question: You mentioned that you wouldn’t lay the piece face down. How did you securely attach the tape to the back while protecting the face of the artwork?

  • @stinar37
    @stinar37 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    fantastic. tysm!

    • @Endurart
      @Endurart  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      You're welcome!

  • @ellikot123
    @ellikot123 11 ปีที่แล้ว

    I LOVE it! Do you have any on mounting rice paper cut paper art?

  • @3865ron
    @3865ron 10 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for the hinging tips! I need to frame a couple of water colors done on about the same kind of paper you have here but they need to stand off the backing about 1/4" or so. I was thinking of using a couple of Econo Space strips on the backing to "float" the art...sort of a shadow box effect. Or is there a better way?

  • @Endurart
    @Endurart  11 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks Nicholas. If there are any topics you would like to see please let me know so I can add them to the list. Thanks again, David

  • @mgmdurand
    @mgmdurand 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for the demonstration, I found it very useful. I have a question, the artwork I want to mount is on very thin paper, it is a soft ground etching on a 90 lbs, about 26" x 30" and I am concerned that the moisture from the hinges may make the paper buckle ever so slightly and be visible on the front. Any recommendation? There is no edge to the print, the paper was slightly smaller than the copper plate. Thanks.

  • @Endurart
    @Endurart  10 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I'd suggest using a rag board cut up to an inch smaller all round than the watercolour. Hinge the watercolour to the board and then use a piece of foam board under the rag board. The ecospace altho inert may not offer enough support. You can bevel cut the edges of the rag mat just like a mat drop-out and use tab of hinging tape or Japanese paper around the edges. Got a live training broadcast on art hinging coming up on 9/10/13 2pm Brisbane time. Email me at fixaframe au & I'll send rego link

  • @jamiehapanowicz7999
    @jamiehapanowicz7999 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    For larger prints such as 22”x22” or 22”x40” does this seem take me to work? Or do I need to do something more because of the weight. The prints/editions or silkscreened of high quality paper, and will be behind glass. If you could answer this question for me it would really help. I have a large amount of prints to frame and can’t afford to pay someone, but and scared to get it wrong. I have my bachelors of fine arts so I understand all the materials, and can frame with a Matt just fine. I have never framed anything with a deckled edge that is so large/heavy...

  • @gerarddefranco6005
    @gerarddefranco6005 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I like your videos a lot. I look at them over and over even before I get near my artwork. If I use gummed hinging tape, how do I move or remove the hinge without damaging the artwork? And for that matter, how do you handle self-adhesive tape if you need to remove it?

    • @ethanwalker6292
      @ethanwalker6292 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      This is a super late reply. Removing pre-gummed hinging tape can be tricky and is honestly best left to conservators rather than framers or artists. Dabbing water on the back of hinges loosens the adhesive and will generally let you remove the tape from the art but it may leave residue or take the top ply with it. Pre-gummed tapes are usually AF but not actually archival, and the adhesive or resulting residue may cause yellowing over time.
      When when slot-mounting I generally use methyl cellulose on mulberry paper and do a v-hinge (fold the tape down behind the slot in the mounting board rather than up as seen in the video and then tape across it horizontally on the back). this way you never have to actually remove the hinge from the art itself. You can just remove the tape on the back of the mounting board and slide the hinge out of the slot and reuse it if the art needs to be remounted.

  • @Endurart
    @Endurart  11 ปีที่แล้ว

    There is a video "How to frame a picture with glass, making picture frames" that shows the assembly part. Whatever you do please space the artwork from the glazing using mat boards or spacers. It is a large piece so you made need professional help or advice. Often a qualified framer may assist you if you buy some of the materials from them but some are very protective of the craft. In my online framing course I teach step by step basics and more advanced stuff is inside the membership area.Thnx

  • @annwoodall5144
    @annwoodall5144 4 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Thanks so much for this demonstration, it's extremely helpful. I just have a question about how you attached the gummed tape to the artwork itself. In the video it's rather bright and a little difficult to see the back of the artwork. Did you simply dampen the end of the gummed tape and attach it directly to the back of the art? Or did you reinforce the, I think you called it a pendulum hinge with extra tape? Also, would you be able to safely remove the tape from the back of the art, if need be? If so, how? Thank you, again!

  • @me2speed316
    @me2speed316 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for showing how to do this technique. Is there a simple (or even not simple) formula for measuring the open space needed to show the at for cutting matte boards?

    • @Foamboards
      @Foamboards 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      If you are float mounting an artwork like how the deckled edges are showing in the video then you would normally make the opening proportionally bigger than the paper you are displaying. When the item is not squared up - ie the edges are crooked or not right angles you would make the gap larger so as to space the right angle cut mat board away from the paper that is not squared up.
      A simple way to decide on the opening size is to make yourself some L shaped sections from a large mat board. You can use two of these L shapes to create a "viewfinder" so you can gauge what looks best with the picture you are framing.
      Once you have visually created the space with the L shaped viewfinders you can then measure that opening and use it as the widow size in your calculations.
      Best regards, David Schummy

  • @rowanwood5397
    @rowanwood5397 8 ปีที่แล้ว

    thank you for the tutorial. i have a question. i have some 60cm x80cm guach paintings on 356g arches watercolor paper that i want to frame in this floating method. but my works are warped/cockled in places.
    1. will these warped drawing be flatten just because they are behind glass or will the waviness be visible inside the frame?
    2. can i reduce the waviness by adding additional hinges?
    would greatly appreciate your opinions on these matters. thanks

  • @RehdClouhd
    @RehdClouhd 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    But how did you install the tape hinges into the piece?

  • @jamiehapanowicz7999
    @jamiehapanowicz7999 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I have float mounted letterpress images just like this, but I’m scared to float mount my larger prints. I collect print editions from artists around the world, I have a pretty strong collection going, but I can’t afford to send them out to be framed. I can afford to frame them myself and I’m Confident with my smaller but I have some valuable prints that are 22”x30”. Will hinging them this way hold the weight of my larger work? I don’t want to guess and just use more linen tape to hold the weight. I can’t find a video that answers this question. If you can help me out it will be much appreciated, and if you can recommend any books that cover this type of framing and mounting please let me know. I have my bachelors of fine art, so please don’t feel you have to dumb things down for me. Thanks

  • @susankotler7890
    @susankotler7890 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This seems like a much sturdier way to float mount artwork, putting the hinge through a slot in the backing board and securing it to the back of the board. I just did a piece and sure hope it holds up as other methods have failed! Would you recommend using additional hinges for heavier papers such as Arches 300 pound watercolor paper?

    • @Endurart
      @Endurart  7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Thanks Susan, you can use more or wider hinges with greater surface area on heavier papers. Use some of the thicker Japanese papers and purified starch past as the adhesive. Be sure to tear the paper into strips to reduce the sharp edges and increase the surface area improving the bond. Ensure the highs are fully set and dry before threading through the backing to reduce any chance of adhesive failure with heavier artworks. Best regards, David Schummy

  • @deedunn9811
    @deedunn9811 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    when floating a watercolor, do you put the glass directly on the art or do you float and then add a mat to act as a spacer?

    • @Endurart
      @Endurart  3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Normally the artwork is spaced from the glass either by using a mat board or a spacer.

  • @radiofriendlybox
    @radiofriendlybox 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    any reason not to use artist tape as opposed to hinging tape?

    • @Endurart
      @Endurart  7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I guess you would have to define what you mean by "artist tape"
      If you mean a self-adhesive type tape that is used for positioning items temporarily or for masking type applications then is those types of tapes the adhesives tend to break down over time causing staining or they leave an adhesive residue.
      If you are talking about brown gummed kraft tape used by artists to stretch watercolour paper then it is not an acid-free product. In many old works however where there was an acidic backing board the old gummed tape did provide some barrier to the damaged caused by a poor choice of support.
      There have been a lot of developments in adhesives and materials used in archival types of framing but the old fallback of pure starch adhesive combined with Japanese papers is still the preferred method for hinging valuable artworks. This is because the technique is reversible, It is strong and stable when dry and if subjected to shock the hinges will give preventing damage occurring to the artwork.
      Thanks for your question.
      Best regards,
      David Schummy

    • @radiofriendlybox
      @radiofriendlybox 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      thanks for your reply. i was referring to self-adhesive tape for temporary use. the application of water to the hinging tape and then the tape to the art work just seemed counter-intuitive to me. does the artwork take up any of that water? i'm framing mostly screen prints, and comic art which is done on bristol boards.

  • @nancyfuller2405
    @nancyfuller2405 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    like

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    @jesuschristislord-gloryofg9450 6 ปีที่แล้ว

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    @allandocater6296 2 ปีที่แล้ว

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  • @nancytobin4938
    @nancytobin4938 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Very clever!

    • @Endurart
      @Endurart  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you!