Depending on the art medium (paint, ink, photograph, etc.) you may want to consider using spacers to keep the artwork from directly contacting the glass. Overtime the art "could" adhere to the glass.
Looks real good Chevee and especially Beth! I had no idea there was a "proper" way to hang art in a frame like this xD I musta been taping stuff to mats like a savage!
Moisture. Changes in humidity can cause issues with the artwork sticking to the glass or causing the paper to buckle because it doesn't have room to expand and contract with moisture. This isn't precious artwork, so I'm not bothered by it... but people sure do like to complain about it in the comments. 🤪
@@patriciajung9157the remedy is spacers between the glazing and backing board to create an air gap. there are all kinds of products to do this ranging from inserts which slide on the glass, self adhesive clear spacers you apply to the back of the glazing, and good old wood spacers. in a pinch, you can even do it with acid free foam core but that would be a little hack. and it is a must, unless you really don't care about your work sticking to the glazing and potentially getting destroyed.
“Chipboard if you’re British”? No mate, in the UK chipboard is a much thicker sheet building material made from glued together wood chips. We say ‘backing board’ same as you! Great vid by the way.
Interesting that using archival products for framing a friends work was used and then a CHEAP frame was used, too much information. Thanks for info about alcohol instead of Windex or whatever.
I have float mounted letterpress images just like this, but I’m scared to float mount my larger prints. I collect print editions from artists around the world, I have a pretty strong collection going, but I can’t afford to send them out to be framed. I can afford to frame them myself and I’m Confident with my smaller but I have some valuable prints that are 22”x30”. Will hinging them this way hold the weight of my larger work? I don’t want to guess and just use more linen tape to hold the weight. I can’t find a video that answers this question. If you can help me out it will be much appreciated, and if you can recommend any books that cover this type of framing and mounting please let me know. I have my bachelors of fine art, so please don’t feel you have to dumb things down for me. Thanks
@@CheveeDodd It was Hayaku hinging tape and I wetted it. Very weak adhesive. I switched to Methycellulose and Mulberry hinging paper and even then had a problem. The paper is a handmade paper and the board is archival museum board. I had to also put tape on the bottom corners because it is a collage and it just sticks out. I've got it weighted down now, we'll see.
Naaaaahh it's totally fine using Windex.. one in millions that the acidity in Windex will have any effect on absolutely anything...it's the matting and hinging and boards and whats touching the art that matter most.
Yes. If I wanted to preserve it for a very long time, then a UV filtered glass would be a better choice. As it is, they hang in an area that gets very little UV exposure, but they will fade eventually.
@@CheveeDodd You should have addressed that in your video. I know a few people who have wonderful pictures that have been ruined because of the way the pictures were framed and the crappy glass that was used. The owners were unaware of the potential light damage . They weren't stupid people but their expertise was not in picture framing. For a couple of extra bucks and an explanation they could have preserved something that was important to them. But it was on acid free paper... duh. So, it appears you have "Throw away art" kept in dark corridors. Fine. Just stop producing videos on framing 'cause some people may ruin their art if exposed to the light of day.
Attaching the tape makes zero sense to me the way you’re showing it. It’s not at all clear what /how you’re attaching to art and back board. Seems contradictory to me. I’m really sorry because I need to do this right now.
sorry but this is full of ill-advised practices and outright mistakes, especially bad for a beginner. using glass as a cutting edge is unadvisable for several reasons, not least because it's dangerous. hinges should be placed so that the art pivots at the top, not a few inches down which risks crimping the art when lifted again. these are not "opinions" or "options" - these are well established practices developed for good reason. there are other problems here as well which newbies should not learn. i advise finding a vid from an archivist or professional framer.
You are wrong about hinge placement, but that's due to the nature of the t-hinge when float-mounting. With matted artwork, the top of the "T" would be attached to the backer above the artwork and be covered by the mat. You could choose to use a v-hinge for a floating mount which would allow you to place the hinge to the very top-edge, but I've experienced issues with heavier paper eventually pulling the v-hinge loose.
in decades of making and handling artworks, and working closely with professional framers, i've never seen hinges positioned down toward center like that. with work on paper especially, you want to compromise the back surface as far from center as possible, for both mechanical and archival reasons. i've worked in shops where you could get fired for some of the mistakes in this video. it's great that you're crafty, it's great that you want to make helpful videos. it would be even better if you confirm best practices. someone is going to regret emulating this example.
I'm also kind of shocked that there are neither spacers nor another mat to keep the glass off the surface of the paper. I've never, ever seen or done a float without a protective gap between the glass and the art surface.
From what I was told by a supposed expert, you do not float mount this way, unless you are going to place a window mat over the art. Otherwise you will need 4 hinges, coz right now if the frame is held side ways or moved around, the hinges will most probably fail.
You should probably title this video "how to frame artwork the ghetto way". Everything about this is janky and hard to watch. Even the way you cut the tape all jagged like a child might do... wtf
I have float mounted letterpress images just like this, but I’m scared to float mount my larger prints. I collect print editions from artists around the world, I have a pretty strong collection going, but I can’t afford to send them out to be framed. I can afford to frame them myself and I’m Confident with my smaller but I have some valuable prints that are 22”x30”. Will hinging them this way hold the weight of my larger work? I don’t want to guess and just use more linen tape to hold the weight. I can’t find a video that answers this question. If you can help me out it will be much appreciated, and if you can recommend any books that cover this type of framing and mounting please let me know. I have my bachelors of fine art, so please don’t feel you have to dumb things down for me. Thanks
Yes, hinging would be fine for something that size, assuming the art and backer are not loose in the frame. I would window mat the artwork and ensure that the mat and backer are held tightly in place in the frame. The friction between the two surfaces will do most of the work for you. The tape is there to help keep it aligned. I'm not aware of any books, but the Library of Congress has a little pamphlet that I learned from: www.loc.gov/preservation/care/SmithBrown.PDF
Depending on the art medium (paint, ink, photograph, etc.) you may want to consider using spacers to keep the artwork from directly contacting the glass. Overtime the art "could" adhere to the glass.
Thank you! I was pulling my hair out about how to float mount some prints and you explained it so well! Thank you once again!
Thank you! Then tape hinging lesson was just what I needed and very clear.
This is the best video I’ve seen for this type of framing. TY so much.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome! That looks like Jordan Wesolek’s style of art, if anyone is wondering.
Fantastic! Thanks friend!
Looks real good Chevee and especially Beth! I had no idea there was a "proper" way to hang art in a frame like this xD I musta been taping stuff to mats like a savage!
+Hubbard's Handmade hah! Well, it depends on whether you want to preserve the art or not. Feel free to use duct tape and poster board. :)
whoa! xD its like you can see into my mind!!! XD
+Hubbard's Handmade don't forget to scotch tape the aluminum foil to the back for a dust shield. :)
Me too. I used masking tape and now I feel totally stupid.
Glass right against the artwork. That's a rookie mistake.
Care to explain why that is?
Moisture. Changes in humidity can cause issues with the artwork sticking to the glass or causing the paper to buckle because it doesn't have room to expand and contract with moisture.
This isn't precious artwork, so I'm not bothered by it... but people sure do like to complain about it in the comments. 🤪
Can you recommend how to have artwork not stick to glass...please and thank you
@@patriciajung9157the remedy is spacers between the glazing and backing board to create an air gap. there are all kinds of products to do this ranging from inserts which slide on the glass, self adhesive clear spacers you apply to the back of the glazing, and good old wood spacers. in a pinch, you can even do it with acid free foam core but that would be a little hack.
and it is a must, unless you really don't care about your work sticking to the glazing and potentially getting destroyed.
Wonderful video. Thnaks
You might not want to be putting your bare hands all over that artwork!
“Chipboard if you’re British”? No mate, in the UK chipboard is a much thicker sheet building material made from glued together wood chips. We say ‘backing board’ same as you! Great vid by the way.
Interesting that using archival products for framing a friends work was used and then a CHEAP frame was used, too much information. Thanks for info about alcohol instead of Windex or whatever.
Super helpful, tyvm!
Is denatured alcohol safe to use on styrene 'glass'?
Great video, but I cringed when you rubbed the artwork with your hands. #BodyOils #UseWhiteGloves
True. Thanks for the feedback!
This was awesome thank you! Do you find this is a secure way to mount paper works if the frame doesn't have glass?
It will work, yes, but changes in humidity may cause the bottom to curl without also fixing those corners down.
@@CheveeDodd Thank you very much for explaining this!
As opposed to an industrial spoon.
I have float mounted letterpress images just like this, but I’m scared to float mount my larger prints. I collect print editions from artists around the world, I have a pretty strong collection going, but I can’t afford to send them out to be framed. I can afford to frame them myself and I’m Confident with my smaller but I have some valuable prints that are 22”x30”. Will hinging them this way hold the weight of my larger work? I don’t want to guess and just use more linen tape to hold the weight. I can’t find a video that answers this question. If you can help me out it will be much appreciated, and if you can recommend any books that cover this type of framing and mounting please let me know. I have my bachelors of fine art, so please don’t feel you have to dumb things down for me. Thanks
You ever get this answered or solved?
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Artwork doesn't actually look centered on the mat. Wider margin on right side maybe?
The tape (same tape as yours) will not stick to either artwork paper or the backing board. What is wrong?
Are you sure you got the self adhesive? Most hinge tapes are meant to be wetted (like a stamp)
@@CheveeDodd It was Hayaku hinging tape and I wetted it. Very weak adhesive. I switched to Methycellulose and Mulberry hinging paper and even then had a problem. The paper is a handmade paper and the board is archival museum board. I had to also put tape on the bottom corners because it is a collage and it just sticks out. I've got it weighted down now, we'll see.
Good luck!
@@CheveeDodd thanks. I am sure it is not good to tape the bottom of the work. But I don't know what else to do here.
Very nice! Love your ruler, where did you get that?
OK, got it. Patchwork Quilting ruler :) Perfect!
And its on order :)
Sorry I didn't see this soon enough to respond!
Naaaaahh it's totally fine using Windex.. one in millions that the acidity in Windex will have any effect on absolutely anything...it's the matting and hinging and boards and whats touching the art that matter most.
That's not a hinge.
You are using an acid free mat. But is the glass in that inexpensive frame UV light protective? If not, your artwork will rapidly fade won't it?
Yes. If I wanted to preserve it for a very long time, then a UV filtered glass would be a better choice. As it is, they hang in an area that gets very little UV exposure, but they will fade eventually.
@@CheveeDodd You should have addressed that in your video. I know a few people who have wonderful pictures that have been ruined because of the way the pictures were framed and the crappy glass that was used. The owners were unaware of the potential light damage . They weren't stupid people but their expertise was not in picture framing. For a couple of extra bucks and an explanation they could have preserved something that was important to them. But it was on acid free paper... duh.
So, it appears you have "Throw away art" kept in dark corridors. Fine. Just stop producing videos on framing 'cause some people may ruin their art if exposed to the light of day.
All that work to float the piece of artwork but yet you mashed it against glass without using spacers.
Why you didn't upload yet?
Upload what?
No! Get rid of the cardboard!! Use ph neutral foambrd.
Attaching the tape makes zero sense to me the way you’re showing it. It’s not at all clear what /how you’re attaching to art and back board. Seems contradictory to me. I’m really sorry because I need to do this right now.
What is it with gunnawanna? Please, stop it, folks.
sorry but this is full of ill-advised practices and outright mistakes, especially bad for a beginner. using glass as a cutting edge is unadvisable for several reasons, not least because it's dangerous. hinges should be placed so that the art pivots at the top, not a few inches down which risks crimping the art when lifted again. these are not "opinions" or "options" - these are well established practices developed for good reason. there are other problems here as well which newbies should not learn. i advise finding a vid from an archivist or professional framer.
You are wrong about hinge placement, but that's due to the nature of the t-hinge when float-mounting. With matted artwork, the top of the "T" would be attached to the backer above the artwork and be covered by the mat. You could choose to use a v-hinge for a floating mount which would allow you to place the hinge to the very top-edge, but I've experienced issues with heavier paper eventually pulling the v-hinge loose.
in decades of making and handling artworks, and working closely with professional framers, i've never seen hinges positioned down toward center like that. with work on paper especially, you want to compromise the back surface as far from center as possible, for both mechanical and archival reasons. i've worked in shops where you could get fired for some of the mistakes in this video. it's great that you're crafty, it's great that you want to make helpful videos. it would be even better if you confirm best practices. someone is going to regret emulating this example.
I'm also kind of shocked that there are neither spacers nor another mat to keep the glass off the surface of the paper. I've never, ever seen or done a float without a protective gap between the glass and the art surface.
From what I was told by a supposed expert, you do not float mount this way, unless you are going to place a window mat over the art. Otherwise you will need 4 hinges, coz right now if the frame is held side ways or moved around, the hinges will most probably fail.
You should probably title this video "how to frame artwork the ghetto way". Everything about this is janky and hard to watch. Even the way you cut the tape all jagged like a child might do... wtf
I have float mounted letterpress images just like this, but I’m scared to float mount my larger prints. I collect print editions from artists around the world, I have a pretty strong collection going, but I can’t afford to send them out to be framed. I can afford to frame them myself and I’m Confident with my smaller but I have some valuable prints that are 22”x30”. Will hinging them this way hold the weight of my larger work? I don’t want to guess and just use more linen tape to hold the weight. I can’t find a video that answers this question. If you can help me out it will be much appreciated, and if you can recommend any books that cover this type of framing and mounting please let me know. I have my bachelors of fine art, so please don’t feel you have to dumb things down for me. Thanks
Yes, hinging would be fine for something that size, assuming the art and backer are not loose in the frame. I would window mat the artwork and ensure that the mat and backer are held tightly in place in the frame. The friction between the two surfaces will do most of the work for you. The tape is there to help keep it aligned.
I'm not aware of any books, but the Library of Congress has a little pamphlet that I learned from: www.loc.gov/preservation/care/SmithBrown.PDF
Chevee Dodd I am really working toward keeping the decile edges exposed...
Ah, I'm not sure then.