Monoprice MP10 Unboxing Setup First Print
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video, I unbox, assemble, setup, calibration and produce the first print on the just-released Monoprice MP10.
This video contains everything you need to get started with this 300 x 300 x 400 printing.
If you are not on a PC and you want to load the machine settings into Cura here are the settings I copied from the Cura executable on the Monoprice SD card:
Start code
G21;(metric values)
G90;(absolute positioning)
M82;(set extruder to absolute mode)
M107;(start with the fan off)
G28;(Home the printer)
G92 E0;(Reset the extruder to 0)
G0 Z5 E5 F500;(Move up and prime the nozzle)
G0 X-1 Z0;(Move outside the printable area)
G1 Y60 E8 F500;(Draw a priming/wiping line to the rear)
G1 X-1;(Move a little closer to the print area)
G1 Y10 E16 F500;(draw more priming/wiping)
G1 E15 F250;(Small retract)
G92 E0;(Zero the extruder)
End Code
G0 X0 Y200;(Stick out the part)
M190 S0;(Turn off heat bed, don't wait.)
G92 E10;(Set extruder to 10)
G1 E7 F200;(retract 3mm)
M104 S0;(Turn off nozzle, don't wait)
G4 S300;(Delay 5 minutes)
M107;(Turn off part fan)
M84;(Turn off stepper motors.)
X: 300
Y: 300
Z: 400
X Min 20
Y Min 10
X Max 10
Y Max 10
Enjoy your new printer.
Irv
---
The following links are to products I have used, reviewed, or evaluated for the MakeWithTech community. Some of the links below are affiliate links that provide commissions, at no cost to you, and help support the MakeWithTech video production, purchase of products for reviews, lab, forum, and web site.
I have reviewed the following printers or similar printers:
➡︎ kit.co/makewit...
These are some of the tools I use for 3d printing day-to-day:
➡︎ kit.co/makewit...
I have reviewed or used the following 3d printer upgrades:
➡︎ kit.co/makewit...
Here are the 3d printer filaments I use to evaluate prints, software, and techniques:
➡︎ kit.co/makewit...
I will be covering basic electronics and software in future MakeWithTech segments and here are the products I am using:
kit.co/makewit...
Some of the Woodworking products I use:
kit.co/makewit...
---
** Affiliate disclaimer: some of the above links in my videos may be affiliate links, which generate a sales commission for me. Your price is the same or less than if you go to the site directly. These sales commissions help to support the MakeWithTech channel. (makewithtech.com)
** MakeWithTech and the MakeWithTech videos are Copyright Cogitations, LLC. (cogitations.com)
** Equipment used in the MakeWithTech videos has the potential to cause injury if misused. Use all equipment and tools at your own risk and follow all manufacturer's safety recommendations.
** Cogitations, LLC licenses all music used in the MakeWithTech videos from Epidemic Sound. Cogitations, LLC uses only authorized or open source clip art and third party images. Images .
Can you do a video on how to set it up on cura please I need this or show me someone that has a video about it.
Hey i have the same printer and i have some problems could enyone share his settings ; ) thx
Maybe about time to update your cura settings in the monoprice videos as cura has changed a lot.
This would be great. The cat prints well, couldn’t get anything else to print correctly in the slightest.
The mp10 doesn't seem to accept negative absolute coords. So these two lines in the start code are no-ops:
G0 X-1 Z0;(Move outside the printable area)
G1 X-1;(Move a little closer to the print area)
The end result is that at the beginning of every print, it squirts out some filament and drags it along into what I'm trying to print.
I've had better luck with this start gcode:
G21;(metric values)
G90;(absolute positioning)
M82;(set extruder to absolute mode)
M107;(start with the fan off)
G28;(Home the printer)
M420 S1;(Restore auto leveling)
G92 E0;(Reset the extruder to 0)
G0 Z5 E5 F500;(Move up and prime the nozzle)
G0 X3 Z2;(Move to the edge of the printable area)
G1 Y60 E8 F500;(Draw a priming/wiping line to the rear)
G1 X4;(Move a little closer to the print area)
G1 Y10 Z1 E16 F500;(draw more priming/wiping)
G1 E15 F250;(Small retract)
G92 E0;(Zero the extruder)
That code puts the wipe filament in the front left of the bed. In the wipe, I didn't send the hot end all the way to Z=0, so that if the bed isn't perfectly leveled (especially at the very edge), it won't scrape the print bed.
I agree. If you check out my google slide deck you will notice I eliminated the negative offset in my recommended start code.
docs.google.com/presentation/d/10Two5vMClDXDwZXuJUp7YF1bjKibKQVjw1eilUuuLaY
Thanks for sharing and let’s continue to learn together.
@@MakeWithTech Thank you so much for this document. I bought this printer in a sale for 125 so your videos are going to be a great help for me. This is my first 3d printer.
tight! thanks. it prints the cat fine, but every other print just hovers. it won't touch the bed. ive even turned the little bed raisers (4) under, i've tried to manually adjust the screw nob in the back left.. and when i try to do the closer/farther, it won't go past 0. does - numbers, wont go past 0. frustrating. even tried several g codes.. it seems to be not recognizing the bed.. does the touch thing just fine..goes to home fine.. when i print, it hovers. hmmmmm
Hello! I just got this printer and I'm equally excited and intimidated to set up. :) Your video is fantastic! I'll be following along to set up my printer. Any suggestions on where to start in terms of installing/learning Cura. I'm a complete newbie to 3D printer on my own :) Thanks again for your great video!!!
Thanks for the video. I bought this printer on a whim because of it's price tag. It was a demo model and the seller wanted $100 for it. I offered $75 and my offer was accepted. The caveat was no return. I was willing to take the chance. When I got it home I discovered there was no extruder, fortunately I watched your other videos where you recommend an all metal extruder , so I immediately ordered one on Amazon, (it arrives tomorrow). In the meantime I am checking the various assembly parts you mention and all seems to be in order. I do not know what the micro SD card is used for so I would appreciate some advice on that as my two other 3D printers do not have one. I assume it is for sending gcode data to the printer. Also the magnetic print bed has several areas with melted plastic (PLA) on the black surface with the "IIIP" on it. Is there a way to remove it or should I buy a new one? Thanks I have watched every one of your videos, especially the series on using FreeCad. They are well explained and very informative to a Newbie like myself.
Thank you!!
Could you please post a link to the Extruder and stabilizing units that you purchased to upgrade this unit?
Very well produced video. I bit the bullet and bought this for Christmas (as my first 3d printer) and compared to other similar priced machines and after many hours of tuning I am quite pleased with it. Ill be waiting for an update video as I am curious what your settings will turn out to be. (Subbed)
Here is a detailed quality review: th-cam.com/video/cJtbU3wqnqI/w-d-xo.html
Thanx so much for you MP10 installation video. Putting together a 2nd MP10 won’t be so bad with your help tips. I had to return my 1st one after firing it up the motor stepper won’t move up & down as it was supposed to. The Extruder hit the deck & scratched the bed while trying to Auto Level. The Motor made horrible noises. I wish Monoprice would have you re-write their manual. Thanx again for all of your videos - your the best on TH-cam
Thanks.
Hello,
I've just learned that replacing the nozzle every so often is necessary maintenance. How do I know which nozzles to purchase? I have the MP10. Are all nozzles threaded the same?
No but the MP10 uses any nozzle that works on a Creality CR10 or Ender.
Thankyou for this video, helped me get it setup very quickly and running somewhat smooth within 20 minutes. One thing to add though that seems to be causing issues with the newer batches that should be pointed out. When you say to push the filament out till it comes out the extruder, on the newest batches doing that will cause it to run out of filament and fail to feed it. Took me about 2 hours of making it 1-2 minutes into a print only to have it say out of filament and clog up. Now you have to feed the filament till it just comes out the end and then feed it with the filament movement feature on the machine.
Interesting. I have done it both ways. Not sure why it should matter. I think the key is to make sure the Bowden tube is pressed in all of the way and also to make sure the hot end is raised up a bit so when you extrude a bit of filament it does not jam on the bed.
thank you this helped so much
Thanks for the unboxing/first run video. I've been considering one of these as a first printer, and it's very helpful to see it run through in detail.
It looks nice, but I hope a hotend swap would be practical, and maybe a second Z leadscrew eventually.
Have you had any issues with it to date? Autolevel inconsistency, any sag due to the single Z screw, other issues with the gantry? The hotend assembly's center of mass seems awfully far forward of the X axis beam.
Definitely looking forward to the results of your quality and speed tests.
Doing testing now. Also creating a custom profile and start of print gcode. Expect to have results in a week or two.
Here is my detailed review:
th-cam.com/video/cJtbU3wqnqI/w-d-xo.html
Nice unboxing video. Looks like that could be a nice printer. I'm looking forward to your review once you've had a few days to play with it. I'm considering picking up a new printer (have a Maker Select v2 that is showing its age) and this one is definitely interesting. Thanks!
Thanks. The only review on the monoprice site is not good but as I showed the print of the cat on the sd card was quite nice. Look for another video in a couple of weeks.
Thanks for the great setup video Dr. Vax!
This is my first 3d printer. I am in need of some help, my extruder heated correctly the first two prints though it has not heated since. It sits around 10-20 with the fans on and nothing changes. I tried using a heat gun and it triggered it to start to heat on its own though that only worked once (I checked that nothing looked overheated). What should I be looking at?
Thank you!
Is the start code the same for the MP10 Mini?
Yes the start code should be the same for the MP10 mini.
@@MakeWithTech Thanks so much!
Just got my mini and am using this tutorial to get started. Extremely helpful and I am already up and printing the cat within 20-minutes.
My only question is, where can I get an all metal extruder for my mp10 mini?
Is it the same as the one you use on the fullsize model?
@@MakeWithTech Oh and one more thing, Happy Pesach friend!
@@MakeWithTech Hi, can you make more videos for MP10 Mini, plz!! im having troubles to leveling and the filament doesnt stick tothe bed ive tryed with temperture without results.
Thanks Irv! As a first time 3d printer owner, this was a helpful assistant to the assembly instructions, as well as extra info I needed to know.
Thank you for the video. I'd appreciate your advice.
Choosing a new 3D printer has been very difficult for me. I would like a large build size similar to the CR-10, but I would also like the convenience of real auto bed leveling and have the printer be enclosed. I have a budget of $400, but I could realistically go up to $500. Do you have a suggestion in that price range?
Unfortunately the challenge at your price range is auto bed leveling. I can not recommend the MP10 as a first printer because while I am excited about putting a 1mm nozzle in it and continuing to improve the components it has been “a project”. You could get a CR10 and add a BLTouch but that is a bit complex because you need to upgrade the firmware and the CR10 does not have a boot loader installed.
I have never seen one in person but the CR 20 is $419 and seems to have the features you are looking for except the height.
Let’s see if anyone reading this post has a suggestion.
Thank you. I'll look into the CR-20.
Great video! i just buy one of this yesterday and it happened to me the same! i thought that the large screw it was missing even i went to a friend's workshop to make one. if i wouldnt have seen your video, now i would have 2 screws.
It would be great if they put a big orange sticker of something on the Z axis screw to make it easier to find.
my small fan is not running. what can i do ?
Auto leveling not working it says -50
I haven’t seen that. Try monoprice support.
Dynamite for the first timer! I missed the electrical steps in your video the first time and really wish they were mentioned in the PDFs. One tip is to use the outdented bracket in Step 1 on the left side where the stepper motor is located. How can learn more about "optiprint"? I have failed to connect to any of our 5 wifi networks.
Eric I have some videos about Octiprint on the channel that step you through an installation. Just google drvax octoprint.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
@@MakeWithTech After about 10 mins of printing my PLA ran out. I am not sure why. I reloaded with the PLA it came with and printed for another 10 mins. Now I can not load the PLA all the way into the extruder. It makes it into the top and then will not advance. I don't "see" any obstructions externally. I have tried the cold/atomic pull method as shown at 100 seconds. th-cam.com/video/c03P3UNRoFE/w-d-xo.html but I could not remove the PT feed tube so I was going trough the full line. I have longed a case with Monoprice too.
@@MakeWithTech So I'm back. MP10 is printing away with sdcard cat.gcode. My OctoPrint is installed and I can login. What's the best way to get a printer profile loaded? Should my MP10 have come with a USB cable? I am also assembling a Ender-3 Pro.
Is there any cleanup to recover from an extruder this jammed up? drive.google.com/drive/folders/1rE5Ua1-2gVP3W6zXBg8F8O1EjrBabC06
Thank you for the video DrVax. It is useful.
Have you ever tried this printer for maximum print area print? I'm curious about its consistency.
Thank you.
Not yet. Just a day old. Over the next week, I hope to do some overall quality tests in addition to speed tests. I have a Prusa i3 MK3 which for me is the speed king. The Bowden setup and the generic extruder (the Prusa has a Bondtech extruder) may limit the MP10's speed. On the other hand, fans of Bowden setups will argue that since the hot end carriage is lighter it should be able to move faster. Lots of testing to do.
@@MakeWithTech You can run higher speed, acceleration and jerk settings with a bowden setup without causing ringing. Has to do with less inertia. A bowden setup can melt plastic just as fast as a direct drive, but it will ooze and string more, require more retraction, etc.
I can print PETG at 80mm/sec on my ender 5 (same as yours), and it still looks great, however ... it took a lot of tuning to get there.
You are absolutely correct. Feel free to share some of the slicer parameters you found most useful and I can talk about this giving you credit in a future video.
Thank you for the unboxing and initial thoughts. I look forward to more information as you continue testing, then your recommendation between the MP10 and the Ender 5
Hello, Thank you for the video. Does this printer have auto resume feature? I do not see it listed on the item page.
Monoprice MP10 vs Maker Pro Mk.1, Which one do you recommend?
Thanks.
I have this same question. The Malyan MA10 (which this is a rebadge of) product page says that it does come with an auto resume feature, but Monoprice makes no mention of it. Maybe they didn't think it worked well enough to include?
Not sure. I will test and let you know.
I just tested auto resume. Yes, it supports it. I started a print and then pulled the plug. Waited about 60 seconds and plugged it back in. Nothing seemed to happen -- maybe I did not wait long enough, however, I then clicked on Print and a resume.bin file was located on the SD card. I selected it and the printed reheated the bed and continued where it left off.
When I have more time I will try and be more patient and wait and see if it restarts completely on its own.
In addition, I started the print from the SD card. My assumption is that since Octoprint would lose the connection when the power goes out this feature will not work if printing from Octoprint.
Unfortunately, I have no experience with the Maker Pro MK1.
Thank you very much, for taking the time for testing.
I have had the printer for 3 weeks so far. The only issue I had was I kept getting a filament out error which would stop the printer. I opened the filament sensor and noticed the wheels inside that the filament goes though has a piece of vinyl house to grab the filament and turn the sensor wheel. This vinyl is not thick enough to grab the filament with enough grip. I upgraded the hose to a rubber type hose that helps grab the filament better and not causing it to slip and get the error. The printer is well built and really solid! Cable management is well done.
I agree the cable management is excellent. Much better then Creality or Prusa.
With an upgraded all-metal extruder I am getting very nice prints. I will have a second update on quality posted in a couple of days with some very nice large vase mode prints. I also expect to do some testing with PETG.
Could you share the Cura settings for an Apple computer? Thanks!!
This google slide deck has all of the Cura settings that are working for me.
docs.google.com/presentation/d/10Two5vMClDXDwZXuJUp7YF1bjKibKQVjw1eilUuuLaY/edit?usp=sharing
Can you do this for the MP Voxel plz?
Would love too. But I am out of printer funds right now. So far I have purchased all of the printers I have reviewed. Anyone know anyone at monoprice that can convince them to send me a demo unit?
I bought this printer and I'm trying to level the bed, but it seems to have a lot of play.
What can I do tighten those wheels on the horizontal bars?
I am away from my office today however most Creality clones including the MP10 have one wheel on each axis with an adjustment screw in one of the wheels. These are called eccentric nuts because they are not round. When you turn them they move the wheel farther or closer to the rail. Check for a wheel with an eccentric nut under the bed.
@@MakeWithTech I turned the hexagonal part of the wheels for probably 15 minutes in both directions to no avail. I also tried moving the guide bars themselves but they have no ability to move.
You are correct. I just got home and looked at my MP10. It seems they do not use eccentric nuts to align the wheels on the Y-axis (back and forth). It appears the bars are fixed in place with 4 hex screws on the corners. When I loosened the two screws on one of the rails the rail was still locked in place. There must be another set of screws that are not obvious to me.
My print bed has little if any movement side by side. It moves easily back and forth along the Y-axis but this is expected and intentional. If you print bed moves side to side I would place a call to Monoprice support and see what they say.
However, after thinking about it, this should not impact bed leveling. What problem are you having with bed leveling? A common problem is that the bed is way off, and the 4 corners are set so differently that adjusting any individual one makes no difference. If this is your issue just set all 4 screws to about the same place to get started, then go through the bed leveling procedure.
I suppose I'm having no particular problem, but I'm trying to do a approximate level before I start and when I turned the screws that little bit of force moves the bed enough that the nozzle moves quite far away, 2-3mm.
The test print came out pretty well, so I'm beginning to think its fine to let the auto leveling do its work, but I wanted to nip any level problems in the bud.
In any case, I appreciate you taking the time to check that for me. Thank you.
Did you post the Cura machine settings and G-code start and stop sections?
Not yet. Still tuning. Give me about a week.
I am spending some time producing prints using the supplied PC version of Cura with the default settings. This has a couple of limitations since the version of Cura is not the most recent version and the profiles have not been tuned for the filament I am using.
So far using these profiles quality is only average. Given the components specifications, I expected a bit better. I intend to spend about a week tuning so I can provide a generic profile for both Mac and PC during the next week to ten days. Unfortunately, this process takes time since printing calibration models can be a bit slow. I like to use the Kickstarter calibration model and a single print at .15mm layer heights takes almost 5 hours. (www.kickstarter.com/blog/toward-better-3d-printers-a-new-test-from-autodesk-and-kickstart)
Here is my detailed print quality review.
th-cam.com/video/cJtbU3wqnqI/w-d-xo.html
The start g-code I recommend is in this google slide deck:
docs.google.com/presentation/d/10Two5vMClDXDwZXuJUp7YF1bjKibKQVjw1eilUuuLaY/edit?usp=sharing
What do you think about the quality of magnetic plate? Is it flimsy?
I like it. It is similar to the Prusa mk3 but without the PEI surface. The surface seems to be the same as the select mini which is only fair on the mini since prints stick too well. On this printer you can flex the removable steel sheet and the print pops off.
In addition, this removable plate is clearly metal, unlike the Ender 5 plate that feels like a soft magnetic plastic sheet and is in my opinion too flexible.
@@MakeWithTech well, I contacted Monoprice for some details, and although their website stares "flexible bed capable of easily hitting 100C" the answer i got was: "bed is capable of heating to 70C out of the box"
Malyansy's MA10 description states: "Max Hot bed Temperature 110℃"
As I'm looking forward to print PC, I need at least 110, and maybe even more.
I expect that the Monoprice position has to do with the coating on the spring steel bed. The heater may be able to get to 110c but the coating may give off fumes at this temperature that the EPA does not consider safe. This is just speculation on my part. If this is the case replacing the steel plate with something rated for 100c would solve the problem. If I have a chance I will try running the temperature of the bed up to see if it can hit higher temperatures and hold the temperature.
@@MakeWithTech I do believe it may be about magnets and Curie temperature. I'm building custom steel plate, with neodymium magnets of SH grade holding it from below - it should withstand up to 150℃.
I also contacted Malyansy with similar question.
Monoprice has uploaded a new user manual for the MP10 in the product page which includes modified setup instructions, including modified leveling instructions and completely new WiFi connection instructions. They look more like what you would do when setting up a WiFi network on a Raspberry Pi for the first time.
Maybe you could try it and let us know if the WiFi actually works now.
Thank you for post this. I will take a look. Unless they updated the firmware I doubt the wifi is much better. But I will look.