@feikesietsma9132 Many thanks, always good to hear positive feedback. I love Amsterdam. I promised to drive the car back to Gothenburg to the guy we bought it from when it's finished. So we may well end up staying a night or two in the Netherlands. Thanks for watching.
@johnmiddleton470 I've noted before on the channel, ASR Motor Body Engineering in Irchester, Northamptonshire, have all the original templates and reproduce most panels www.asrmotorbodyengineering.co.uk/ . Shaun worked at Aston Martin from the mid 70's as a fabricator so knows these cars really well. His wife, Claire, is an expert on all new panels. I've used the cars they are rebuilding to check measurements etc. For example, as you may know, the early DBS's had different panels, the boot for example is totally different. Without Shaun and Claire we would be lost.
Perhaps consider a small pressure blasting pot so you can blast the pits out of the steel you are welding to. No amount of cavity wax will stop that seam from infecting the repair panel you are welding to it. Very much enjoying this though. Are those repair panels expensive?
@brianb7636 All the panels around the new panel will be replaced or for the rear post panel, centre section which we will keep, that will be blasted as you suggest. I use weld through primer on all seams, some of it does burn but it's better than the original seams with no paint on them at all. The panels come from here www.asrmotorbodyengineering.co.uk/ . All of the formed panels we need (pretty much every major panel) cost about £5K in total. Which given the type of car, it's pretty reasonable in my opinion.
@robertelliot9508 The air chisel was mainly used near the top where it's easy to cut through and was pretty well supported but I do know what you mean. I ended up using the grinder as you'll see in the video. Yeah, someone else suggested spot weld drills. I use cobalt drills. Thing is, the panels where I drilled are being replaced so it's not as if I need to worry about making a hole. The outer edge wasn't drilled because that's staying put. Thanks for the tip and for watching..
Suggest using proper spot weld drills, which are designed not to kill the panel behind the piece you're trying to remove. Many different types on the market. I like the cobalt German made ones from Winzer. Cheers Ps cutting lube is also good to use here. I see that you're using weld thru primer, which should aid in corrosion protection.
@thomasmulhall4873 Thanks for that, I had no idea spot weld drills were a thing. I'll find some. Thanks for the tip. Yep, the weld through is very handy. When we remove the twin or triple skin panels, we often find the gaps between the spot welds are really rusty.
Came here to make the same comment. I like the ones which are like a little tiny hole saw. They seem to last almost forever. The advantage is that you;re not cutting the spot weld centre which tends to be super-hard.
@theastonshed , I'm so sorry. I'm so new to this that I haven't been responding to secondary comments because they haven't come up in my search. We have the Waxoyl at the ready from a previous rebuild of a 350 SL and Alex's Volvo 144. Thanks so much for your input. Will give you a call as we need some parts.
Please please can you move camera close to the shot 😢😢
We did have two cameras running. We'll go back to that. Good plan.
I like the way you work…..iam watching from Amsterdam 😊
@feikesietsma9132 Many thanks, always good to hear positive feedback. I love Amsterdam. I promised to drive the car back to Gothenburg to the guy we bought it from when it's finished. So we may well end up staying a night or two in the Netherlands. Thanks for watching.
Taking shape slowly, you are lucky those repair sections are available.👍
@johnmiddleton470 I've noted before on the channel, ASR Motor Body Engineering in Irchester, Northamptonshire, have all the original templates and reproduce most panels www.asrmotorbodyengineering.co.uk/ . Shaun worked at Aston Martin from the mid 70's as a fabricator so knows these cars really well. His wife, Claire, is an expert on all new panels. I've used the cars they are rebuilding to check measurements etc. For example, as you may know, the early DBS's had different panels, the boot for example is totally different. Without Shaun and Claire we would be lost.
Good luck Alex on your exams, love these videos.😀
Good luck Alex!
Thank you! 😃 Glad you like the videos!
Perhaps consider a small pressure blasting pot so you can blast the pits out of the steel you are welding to. No amount of cavity wax will stop that seam from infecting the repair panel you are welding to it. Very much enjoying this though. Are those repair panels expensive?
@brianb7636 All the panels around the new panel will be replaced or for the rear post panel, centre section which we will keep, that will be blasted as you suggest. I use weld through primer on all seams, some of it does burn but it's better than the original seams with no paint on them at all. The panels come from here www.asrmotorbodyengineering.co.uk/ . All of the formed panels we need (pretty much every major panel) cost about £5K in total. Which given the type of car, it's pretty reasonable in my opinion.
You shouldn't be using an air chisel on those sensitive areas.And get some propeer spot weld removing drill bits,they're cheap.
@robertelliot9508 The air chisel was mainly used near the top where it's easy to cut through and was pretty well supported but I do know what you mean. I ended up using the grinder as you'll see in the video. Yeah, someone else suggested spot weld drills. I use cobalt drills. Thing is, the panels where I drilled are being replaced so it's not as if I need to worry about making a hole. The outer edge wasn't drilled because that's staying put. Thanks for the tip and for watching..
Oooh, good to see fresh metal going in! Keep at it lads!👏👏👏👍❤️
👍
Suggest using proper spot weld drills, which are designed not to kill the panel behind the piece you're trying to remove. Many different types on the market. I like the cobalt German made ones from Winzer.
Cheers
Ps cutting lube is also good to use here.
I see that you're using weld thru primer, which should aid in corrosion protection.
@thomasmulhall4873 Thanks for that, I had no idea spot weld drills were a thing. I'll find some. Thanks for the tip. Yep, the weld through is very handy. When we remove the twin or triple skin panels, we often find the gaps between the spot welds are really rusty.
Came here to make the same comment. I like the ones which are like a little tiny hole saw. They seem to last almost forever. The advantage is that you;re not cutting the spot weld centre which tends to be super-hard.
@peterrenn6341 thanks for that Peter.. and thanks for watching.
Don't forget that where the latch plate is located on the B post, it is double skinned and supported from the back.
Yes, I saw that. I'll need to make one as the original was destroyed. Thanks for the tip. If you have any more, would love to hear them.
@@AstonTorslanda Drill drain holes as you go along, to allow the steel to breath and enable wax oil injection
@theastonshed , I'm so sorry. I'm so new to this that I haven't been responding to secondary comments because they haven't come up in my search. We have the Waxoyl at the ready from a previous rebuild of a 350 SL and Alex's Volvo 144. Thanks so much for your input. Will give you a call as we need some parts.
great work
👍
Thank you guys - just a few minutes every week is brilliant.
@peternash6206 Once Alex's exams are over, end of May, we will be there more often. 👍
Thanks, very enjoyable gain.
@iainbrooks6558 Thanks for watching and commenting.
saw this and clicked straight away!
@josephpressinger1525 Not sure what that means, you clicked to watch or clicked to leave. ;-)
@josephpressinger1525 Alex put me right, thanks for watching 👍.
@@AstonTorslanda ahahah I just saw this comment! I meant I saw the thumbnail in my feed and clicked instantly as I was looking forward to the video :)
@@AstonTorslanda thanks for posting ;)
@josephpressinger1525 👍