Much needed information as I started imaging the sun. Thank you so much for making this video Mark. I never knew you can use it as broadband and to image deep space objects.
Hi Mark, Outstanding, your videos are always great. I love the details and the work that you put into them. Now it comes down to which Lunt to buy. Please keep them coming..
Fantastic review and overview. Thank you for all the sample images, especially demonstrating the differences for the single/double stack. This one is on my wish list for sure!
Nice review. I’ve had three Lunt PT Solar H-alpha scopes: 60 mm, 80 mm, and 100 mm, but sold them to fund other projects. I currently use a Coronado 90 H-alpha unit on my Tak Sky 90. It works well, but I can see getting another Lunt 60 PT and a Lunt 152 PT in the future.
A little off topic, but I am driving myself nuts trying to eliminate the vignetting with my Lunt 100MT using Lunt's .8X focal reducer. Do you do any night imaging with it using the reducer? If so, are you able to eliminate the vignetting? My William Optics GT71 with the reducer has no vignetting at all.
I don't use it at night much. But as I recall using the Starizona Apex-L vignetting was not an issue. Suggest you call Brian Stephens at Lunt and ask him since both products are Lunt.
Did you see my tutorial article on my website? www.azastroguy.com/education-and-outreach/how-to-buy-your-first-telescope Otherwise I'd suggest calling AgenaAstro or HighPointScientific or Starizona and asking one of their knowledgeable staff. There are an infinite combination of options at your price point. Good luck!
I would consider doing a review but I have other videos lined up ahead of that. In summary it's fabulous for visual, solar, planetary, and EAA. I always use it for EAA and usually for solar, planetary and visual. Carries a very heavy payload with stability, including multiple telescopes. Easy to set up and portable. The hand controller can be used in winter with heavy gloves easily which is nice. I have the rotator for imaging and it's OK but not as nice as my AM5 (which is a true equatorial) and gives more reliable steady photographic subs. The database isn't the most complete (no double stars or sharpless objects for example) and no way to add custom objects. However many people control it by computer which eliminates that issue. They are being carried now by Agena Astro! If you are interested and use this link you get the best price they offer and I earn a small commission. Cheers bit.ly/3qfWaZS
Thanks so much for the reply. Yes I only found out about this mount the other day when Agena started carrying it. I only do visual and have been looking for an alt/az go to that would carry up to a 5-6” triplet. Have not been able to find many reviews or videos other than from the company official channel. Checks all the boxes I’m looking for but awfully expensive.
Yes it's pricey but very high quality. I have set up and taken down mine over 1000 times and it still works great. Easily handles my TEC160FL. It can also handle a TEC140 and a Celestron C9.25 at the same time. @@JurassicCorner
Nice images! I have a Coronado PST, but have been wanting something more versatile and more aperture. I guess I should start saving my pennies for a LOOOONG time! :-) If you're ever in Palo Alto, California area, you should stop by for a tour of our lab where we built and do science with SDO/AIA, SDO/HMI, IRIS, TRACE, Hinode/SOT, STEREO/SECCHI, Yohkoh/SXT, SOUP, ... and more.
I spoke with Lunt, their policy is you have to get their focuser even if getting a feather touch. They have had problems with delays getting the feather touch so they would otherwise have to ship it without a focuser. So we are forced to buy a focuser we don’t want and sell it probably for a loss
@@Oscaro9928 Honestly, I am not that impressed with the feather touch focuser. It seems to have a very small window with the tension screw between too loose to hold position and too tight to adjust focus. Again, once it's set, it's not a problem, but it's kind of a pain when I go to adjust the focus. I have the feather touch with my TEC 160FL and didn't have that problem. Now I have a Pegasus electronic focuser, so that eliminates the whole issue.
Excellent video. I just bought a LUNT LS100MT and am curious about the back focus you are using when imaging both solar and at night. When just observing either the sun or moon, the view is typically excellent and allows the addition of significant magnification with barely noticeable loss of quality. When imaging however, I am having quite a challenge getting anything near what I see visually. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks again.
Not sure if you still need an answer, but back focus isn't an issue for solar or night observing or imaging, unless you use the .8X focal reducer/flattener. Then it's 55mm. I haven't been able to eliminate the vignetting with my ZWO 2600MC and MM, but sometimes there's no getting around that, the main thing is that the stars are round to the edges with the proper 55mm back focus with the reducer. Without the reducer, there is no vignetting, but some star distortion on the edge of the frame, which doesn't bother me near as much as the vignetting with the reducer. Having to crop out a decent chunk of the photo, kind of eliminates most of the point of using a reducer(to get a wider FOV for larger objects) But it's an amazing scope. It was my first refractor and I was blown away by the images I could see of Jupiter and Saturn and the imaging of DSO was stunning as well. I think it's the ideal focus length for most night sky objects. Of course, the solar images are second to none, and I was surprised I kind of enjoy observing the sun more than anything else, as it's constantly changing. Jupiter is my other favorite object as it also constantly changes.
Thank you for the review and sample images! I think this might be my next telescope. What camera would you recommend on this scope for full disc imaging/time-lapsing? I was thinking the ZWO ASI294 and/or ASI183
Definitely not the 294 or 183. I have both and they are great for DSO's but not for the Sun with this scope. I'd recommend either the 174 (the QHY version is slightly better than the ZWO version but both are quite good) or perhaps the Player-One Apollo M Mini IMX429. The latter camera's pixel size is a better match than the 174 though the 174 has a faster capture rate. The M Mini also has a built in Tilt plate, DDR Cache, DPS and lower read noise. I plan to buy the Mini IMX429 later this month and do a review comparing it to the 174. Regarding time-lapsing, I bought the Hutech solar guider and it works quite well. I plan to do a review on that too when I get the time. Difficult to keep the Sun steady enough for time lapsing especially if you have a portable set up (not a permanent pier/observatory)
@@AZASTROGUY Thank you for the detailed reply! I'm new to solar and maybe I'm calculating the FOV wrong in Stellarium, but I'm seeing that using the 174 would just barely fit the entire Sun in the frame. I'd prefer a slightly larger sensor for including prominences and having some extra room for both editing and tracking drift when doing extended full disc time-lapses. The Player-One M Mini IMX429 would be a better solar camera but that doesn't quite give me a full disc view since it's a smaller sensor (8.75mm x 6.6 mm). I'm using 714mm as the focal length and I'm assuming the etalons don't have any reducing effect on the FOV. Would the rolling shutter on the 294 and 183 and/or the lower fps for stacking be the reasons you don't recommend them? Any better alternatives? Although I'd prefer not to, should I maybe get a smaller scope to get these views? And thank you for mentioning the Hutech solar guider. Looks great! I'd mainly have my setup be portable so that would be really handy to get. I look forward to your review on it! -Austin
@@austinkaiser7190 You need a camera with fast FPS and a global shutter for solar imaging. Anything with a rolling shutter is out. The 174mm does fit a full solar image using the 100MT with Sharpcap (I do it routinely). The 100mm scope is going to provide brighter images and more resolution than the 80mm., but both are good scopes. I used to have the 80mm.
How many individual frames in that impressive animation? That double stack picture is well better than single stack. Is it really so big difference? Some people use Quark attachment on usual scopes. Which one is better Quark or single or double stack on Lunt telescopes?
Most of my animations are between 175 and 250 frames. Each frame is a photo created from the best 10-15% stacked frames from a 500 frame video. Double stack will always show more detail than single. But double stack increases attenuation so your image is dimmer and you need more gain or a longer exposure. Single stack can be good for prominences only,. Quarks are intended to be used with achromatic refractors. They have a built in barlow so it's difficult in most cases to get a full disk image unless you create a multi panel mosaic. Quarks also require a power supply and time to warm up before use. They can provide good close ups don't work as well for wide views. From what I have read on the forums and heard from users, Quark quality control is lacking, so you might get a great one and you might get one you're unhappy with. Quarks have either chromosphere or prominence models. Lunt scopes show the either surface and proms altogether. You can certainly get into Ha imaging less expensively with a Quark and a cheap refractor. I chose a Lunt because the quality is consistently higher, great support, supports Ha, white light, Calcium and regular night sky configurations, and I had a great experience with my 80mm Lunt.
@@AZASTROGUY Thanks a lot for detailed answers! You are expert in solar imaging! Lunt is better to be the best for such price. It just overkill; spending 6-8K for solar imaging alone. I will prefer TEC, Tak or Esprit for DSO imaging.
@@AZASTROGUY I'm currently doing H-alpha and WL but I will eventually add CaK to the mix as my list of gear continues to grow. H-alpha is definitely the best option for the "Wow!" factor.
I spoke to Lunt, their policy is that you have to get their focused even if getting a feather touch focuser because they say that they sometimes have delays getting the feather touch and if the scope is competed they would have to ship it without a focuser….so we are forced to buy a focuser we don’t want and maybe sell it later at a probable loss😡
Much needed information as I started imaging the sun. Thank you so much for making this video Mark. I never knew you can use it as broadband and to image deep space objects.
Hi Mark, Outstanding, your videos are always great. I love the details and the work that you put into them. Now it comes down to which Lunt to buy. Please keep them coming..
Fantastic review and overview. Thank you for all the sample images, especially demonstrating the differences for the single/double stack. This one is on my wish list for sure!
Excellent Mark … very educational as well as entertaining
Thanks!
Nice review.
I’ve had three Lunt PT Solar H-alpha scopes: 60 mm, 80 mm, and 100 mm, but sold them to fund other projects. I currently use a Coronado 90 H-alpha unit on my Tak Sky 90. It works well, but I can see getting another Lunt 60 PT and a Lunt 152 PT in the future.
A little off topic, but I am driving myself nuts trying to eliminate the vignetting with my Lunt 100MT using Lunt's .8X focal reducer. Do you do any night imaging with it using the reducer? If so, are you able to eliminate the vignetting?
My William Optics GT71 with the reducer has no vignetting at all.
I don't use it at night much. But as I recall using the Starizona Apex-L vignetting was not an issue. Suggest you call Brian Stephens at Lunt and ask him since both products are Lunt.
What is the best Telescope to see craters on the moon budget around 1500? Conventional telescope I like looking through the lenses
Did you see my tutorial article on my website?
www.azastroguy.com/education-and-outreach/how-to-buy-your-first-telescope
Otherwise I'd suggest calling AgenaAstro or HighPointScientific or Starizona and asking one of their knowledgeable staff. There are an infinite combination of options at your price point. Good luck!
Nice review. Thank you. Is that a 2” or 1.25” blocking filter? Looks like a 1.25. Why did you choose that instead of the 2”?
1.25. It is what Lunt recommends for that scope
How do you like the panther mount? Would you consider doing a review?
I would consider doing a review but I have other videos lined up ahead of that. In summary it's fabulous for visual, solar, planetary, and EAA. I always use it for EAA and usually for solar, planetary and visual. Carries a very heavy payload with stability, including multiple telescopes. Easy to set up and portable. The hand controller can be used in winter with heavy gloves easily which is nice. I have the rotator for imaging and it's OK but not as nice as my AM5 (which is a true equatorial) and gives more reliable steady photographic subs. The database isn't the most complete (no double stars or sharpless objects for example) and no way to add custom objects. However many people control it by computer which eliminates that issue. They are being carried now by Agena Astro! If you are interested and use this link you get the best price they offer and I earn a small commission. Cheers bit.ly/3qfWaZS
Thanks so much for the reply. Yes I only found out about this mount the other day when Agena started carrying it. I only do visual and have been looking for an alt/az go to that would carry up to a 5-6” triplet. Have not been able to find many reviews or videos other than from the company official channel. Checks all the boxes I’m looking for but awfully expensive.
Yes it's pricey but very high quality. I have set up and taken down mine over 1000 times and it still works great. Easily handles my TEC160FL. It can also handle a TEC140 and a Celestron C9.25 at the same time. @@JurassicCorner
Nice images! I have a Coronado PST, but have been wanting something more versatile and more aperture. I guess I should start saving my pennies for a LOOOONG time! :-) If you're ever in Palo Alto, California area, you should stop by for a tour of our lab where we built and do science with SDO/AIA, SDO/HMI, IRIS, TRACE, Hinode/SOT, STEREO/SECCHI, Yohkoh/SXT, SOUP, ... and more.
I'd be definitely interested. Please shoot me an email azastroguy@gmail.com Thanks!
Is equipped with the the more expensive optional feather touch focuser Lunt sells?
I got the standard focuser but the feather touch is better
I spoke with Lunt, their policy is you have to get their focuser even if getting a feather touch. They have had problems with delays getting the feather touch so they would otherwise have to ship it without a focuser. So we are forced to buy a focuser we don’t want and sell it probably for a loss
@@Oscaro9928 Honestly, I am not that impressed with the feather touch focuser. It seems to have a very small window with the tension screw between too loose to hold position and too tight to adjust focus. Again, once it's set, it's not a problem, but it's kind of a pain when I go to adjust the focus.
I have the feather touch with my TEC 160FL and didn't have that problem. Now I have a Pegasus electronic focuser, so that eliminates the whole issue.
i see you r using an AZ mount. Does it not affect the earths rotation to de video or set of pics?
The TTS160 mount has an optional Rotator that counteracts for field rotation. Works very well
Excellent video. I just bought a LUNT LS100MT and am curious about the back focus you are using when imaging both solar and at night. When just observing either the sun or moon, the view is typically excellent and allows the addition of significant magnification with barely noticeable loss of quality. When imaging however, I am having quite a challenge getting anything near what I see visually. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks again.
Not sure if you still need an answer, but back focus isn't an issue for solar or night observing or imaging, unless you use the .8X focal reducer/flattener. Then it's 55mm.
I haven't been able to eliminate the vignetting with my ZWO 2600MC and MM, but sometimes there's no getting around that, the main thing is that the stars are round to the edges with the proper 55mm back focus with the reducer.
Without the reducer, there is no vignetting, but some star distortion on the edge of the frame, which doesn't bother me near as much as the vignetting with the reducer. Having to crop out a decent chunk of the photo, kind of eliminates most of the point of using a reducer(to get a wider FOV for larger objects)
But it's an amazing scope. It was my first refractor and I was blown away by the images I could see of Jupiter and Saturn and the imaging of DSO was stunning as well. I think it's the ideal focus length for most night sky objects.
Of course, the solar images are second to none, and I was surprised I kind of enjoy observing the sun more than anything else, as it's constantly changing. Jupiter is my other favorite object as it also constantly changes.
Simply amazing
Hello. What size Daystar Flat cap did you purchase?
its outside diameter is 135mm. I don't see a model number on the label.
@@AZASTROGUY Thank you. You have been a great help in setting up my solar rig. Thanks again!
@@RatherBeTraveling Glad I could be of help. Hope you get some terrific images!
Thank you for the review and sample images! I think this might be my next telescope. What camera would you recommend on this scope for full disc imaging/time-lapsing? I was thinking the ZWO ASI294 and/or ASI183
Definitely not the 294 or 183. I have both and they are great for DSO's but not for the Sun with this scope. I'd recommend either the 174 (the QHY version is slightly better than the ZWO version but both are quite good) or perhaps the Player-One Apollo M Mini IMX429. The latter camera's pixel size is a better match than the 174 though the 174 has a faster capture rate. The M Mini also has a built in Tilt plate, DDR Cache, DPS and lower read noise. I plan to buy the Mini IMX429 later this month and do a review comparing it to the 174. Regarding time-lapsing, I bought the Hutech solar guider and it works quite well. I plan to do a review on that too when I get the time. Difficult to keep the Sun steady enough for time lapsing especially if you have a portable set up (not a permanent pier/observatory)
@@AZASTROGUY Thank you for the detailed reply! I'm new to solar and maybe I'm calculating the FOV wrong in Stellarium, but I'm seeing that using the 174 would just barely fit the entire Sun in the frame. I'd prefer a slightly larger sensor for including prominences and having some extra room for both editing and tracking drift when doing extended full disc time-lapses. The Player-One M Mini IMX429 would be a better solar camera but that doesn't quite give me a full disc view since it's a smaller sensor (8.75mm x 6.6 mm). I'm using 714mm as the focal length and I'm assuming the etalons don't have any reducing effect on the FOV. Would the rolling shutter on the 294 and 183 and/or the lower fps for stacking be the reasons you don't recommend them? Any better alternatives? Although I'd prefer not to, should I maybe get a smaller scope to get these views?
And thank you for mentioning the Hutech solar guider. Looks great! I'd mainly have my setup be portable so that would be really handy to get. I look forward to your review on it!
-Austin
@@austinkaiser7190 You need a camera with fast FPS and a global shutter for solar imaging. Anything with a rolling shutter is out. The 174mm does fit a full solar image using the 100MT with Sharpcap (I do it routinely). The 100mm scope is going to provide brighter images and more resolution than the 80mm., but both are good scopes. I used to have the 80mm.
@@AZASTROGUY I appreciate all the info! A global shutter and high fps makes sense. Keep up the great work!
How many individual frames in that impressive animation?
That double stack picture is well better than single stack. Is it really so big difference? Some people use Quark attachment on usual scopes. Which one is better Quark or single or double stack on Lunt telescopes?
Most of my animations are between 175 and 250 frames. Each frame is a photo created from the best 10-15% stacked frames from a 500 frame video. Double stack will always show more detail than single. But double stack increases attenuation so your image is dimmer and you need more gain or a longer exposure. Single stack can be good for prominences only,. Quarks are intended to be used with achromatic refractors. They have a built in barlow so it's difficult in most cases to get a full disk image unless you create a multi panel mosaic. Quarks also require a power supply and time to warm up before use. They can provide good close ups don't work as well for wide views. From what I have read on the forums and heard from users, Quark quality control is lacking, so you might get a great one and you might get one you're unhappy with. Quarks have either chromosphere or prominence models. Lunt scopes show the either surface and proms altogether. You can certainly get into Ha imaging less expensively with a Quark and a cheap refractor. I chose a Lunt because the quality is consistently higher, great support, supports Ha, white light, Calcium and regular night sky configurations, and I had a great experience with my 80mm Lunt.
@@AZASTROGUY Thanks a lot for detailed answers! You are expert in solar imaging!
Lunt is better to be the best for such price. It just overkill; spending 6-8K for solar imaging alone. I will prefer TEC, Tak or Esprit for DSO imaging.
@@anata5127 the Lunt scope is excellent, I have used it to take some great night photos
@@AZASTROGUY Nice! Then, what about selling TEC140mm to me?!
@@anata5127 sure no problem. $10,000 cash and it’s yours! 😉
Something about this " 3D " . I thought that a pressure tuned single Lunt has also an 3D like effect ( Lunt tilt models has not) thanks for the tip.
Excellent video. Are you considering adding the CaK module to give yourself another wavelength of light to play with?
People get some great CaK images but for whatever reason it's never interested me as much as Ha, so probably not
@@AZASTROGUY I'm currently doing H-alpha and WL but I will eventually add CaK to the mix as my list of gear continues to grow. H-alpha is definitely the best option for the "Wow!" factor.
I spoke to Lunt, their policy is that you have to get their focused even if getting a feather touch focuser because they say that they sometimes have delays getting the feather touch and if the scope is competed they would have to ship it without a focuser….so we are forced to buy a focuser we don’t want and maybe sell it later at a probable loss😡
Dream 🤩