If you dive in any significant sea, the line can wear where it continuously moves back and forth through the shackle under the buoy. To prevent this, I added an all-stainless snatch block under the buoy to eliminate the friction - the sheave just rotates instead. Have to be careful about rinsing it and re-greasing periodically, but so far, no problems. Those buoys are great. I use the same Polyform A-4, and then use an A-0 as my current / wind indicator (where there is wind, I just hang some line under the small buoy so that current dominates) for greater visibility. I bought both in Saturn Yellow - you can see it from miles away regardless of surf. Also, if you attach the current float to the main buoy with e.g. 1/4" slightly negative line instead of the really thin stuff, then the surface distance between the A-4 and the A-0 can serve as an indicator of current strength.
Can you do a followup video with more detail on how you set the brake to retrieve the drop weight? What's the use of the small weight attached to the handle? I would like to rig up a system like this, but need a little more help. Thanks.
Its shooting the wreck where the real skill is, using a wreck grapple and tidal flows, GPS and compass work. I love doing this, its so satisfying getting a good bite in wreck, right on the boilers is bulls eye
Love the retrieval method. I have seen people use a 5 gal bucket of concrete for weight amazing to watch when someone know what they are doing and hit the deck of a wreck in 300ft.
Thank you for showing proper “flaking” of the line into the bucket. That is the best way I know to get a smooth feed. The one thing I would have done differently is to use a line that is set to the correct length before you put the weight in the water & not have excess line nor a counterweight.
ISE - Great video - have you considered using a double daisy chain to stow the line? Used it at great length while diving at TWA 800, and have found no better way to stow line - reduces its overall length by 2/3s, can be manhandled, and if done correctly, will never knot or get tangled up.
I agree, a length of chain is needed first on the anchor as when you return to the shot line you will find the shot line has been cut in two against the side of the wreck from the pull of the tide.
I think it deoends. in the passt 25 years I never had any issues with the line o the wreck. If the current is so ripping, diving is probably not possible anyway - but I agree that IF the conditions are like this an additional piece of chain can be good.(north atlantic, around the UK, a.s.o. ) The shown method of getting it back up does not work then - another reason why I do not like it.
Love it. I have a couple of questions and suggestion. Do you keep the boat 'live' during the dive or it is anchored. Perhaps slightly downwind of the shot float? Suggestion is about the counterweight. Perhaps add a short length of light guage chain to help prevent head injury. Perhaps even replace the weight completely with a couple of metres of medium gauge chain. Maybe its more to tangle but at least it is less risk to heads.
Hi Dean, very much appreciated. The idea with teh chain is good - will give it a try. The boat is never attachd to the shotline - always free drifiting nearby for assistance or help and closing in when the divers are back on the surface. Cheers Achim
I would not recommend tying the rope to the stern and pulling it. If the weight or anchor is hung up at all on the bottom it can very easily drag the transom underwater and cause a boat to sink ( maybe not a a zodiac) but any ridge hull boat. It is safest to tie the line to the bow and drive in a big arc or circle as to not get the line in the prop. this is a very common method for pulling an anchor using the slide and buoy.
thanks for your concern, but if you watch it again you see that, due to the ropebreak the line is pulled horizontal. We use the method for more then a decade now with a variety of boats without the slightest issue. (of course the weight of the shotline should in a reasonable relation to the size of the boat :-))
Yes wise words ,,,,NEVER,, tow an anchor off the stern of a boat, or if you do make sure you have a very sharp knife or an axe to smash it all away if it all goes wrong. If its snarls up solid and there's wind and tide it will pull a boat under rapidly, I nearly come a cropper with this one some years ago. Always pull off the bow in an arc
Excellent show of theory, but definitely lacking in practical applications.... Not enough detail for those that don't know.... But those that know how and why, it's obvious...... That's not who you are trying to inform with this video. Just some friendly feedback.
If you dive in any significant sea, the line can wear where it continuously moves back and forth through the shackle under the buoy. To prevent this, I added an all-stainless snatch block under the buoy to eliminate the friction - the sheave just rotates instead. Have to be careful about rinsing it and re-greasing periodically, but so far, no problems. Those buoys are great. I use the same Polyform A-4, and then use an A-0 as my current / wind indicator (where there is wind, I just hang some line under the small buoy so that current dominates) for greater visibility. I bought both in Saturn Yellow - you can see it from miles away regardless of surf. Also, if you attach the current float to the main buoy with e.g. 1/4" slightly negative line instead of the really thin stuff, then the surface distance between the A-4 and the A-0 can serve as an indicator of current strength.
Love the method of retrieval! Great idea!
Can you do a followup video with more detail on how you set the brake to retrieve the drop weight? What's the use of the small weight attached to the handle? I would like to rig up a system like this, but need a little more help. Thanks.
It's known as a rope grab often used for fall protection. The little weight applies force to an internal cam that locks onto the line.
another great video. I have copied this setup and it works a treat!
What is name of that climbing device ?
Its shooting the wreck where the real skill is, using a wreck grapple and tidal flows, GPS and compass work. I love doing this, its so satisfying getting a good bite in wreck, right on the boilers is bulls eye
Love the retrieval method. I have seen people use a 5 gal bucket of concrete for weight amazing to watch when someone know what they are doing and hit the deck of a wreck in 300ft.
That's Awesome!
Thank you for showing proper “flaking” of the line into the bucket. That is the best way I know to get a smooth feed. The one thing I would have done differently is to use a line that is set to the correct length before you put the weight in the water & not have excess line nor a counterweight.
ISE - Great video - have you considered using a double daisy chain to stow the line? Used it at great length while diving at TWA 800, and have found no better way to stow line - reduces its overall length by 2/3s, can be manhandled, and if done correctly, will never knot or get tangled up.
Brilliant
I agree, a length of chain is needed first on the anchor as when you return to the shot line you will find the shot line has been cut in two against the side of the wreck from the pull of the tide.
I think it deoends. in the passt 25 years I never had any issues with the line o the wreck. If the current is so ripping, diving is probably not possible anyway - but I agree that IF the conditions are like this an additional piece of chain can be good.(north atlantic, around the UK, a.s.o. ) The shown method of getting it back up does not work then - another reason why I do not like it.
Of course, we get a slack of about 45 mins on most wrecks here the window is narrow so to be sure a chain is used.
Love it. I have a couple of questions and suggestion. Do you keep the boat 'live' during the dive or it is anchored. Perhaps slightly downwind of the shot float? Suggestion is about the counterweight. Perhaps add a short length of light guage chain to help prevent head injury. Perhaps even replace the weight completely with a couple of metres of medium gauge chain. Maybe its more to tangle but at least it is less risk to heads.
Hi Dean, very much appreciated. The idea with teh chain is good - will give it a try. The boat is never attachd to the shotline - always free drifiting nearby for assistance or help and closing in when the divers are back on the surface. Cheers Achim
super job
What brand is that rope lock and are there different brands or styles you could recommend?
just searched oline - make sure it is stainless and NOT aluminium
Thanks for sharing the video. Just wondering do you guys use a deco station at all?
Hi, normaly not as it takes a lot of flexibility out of the dive
Achiem, Question. What kind of brand , type watershoes u are wearing during the recording of this vid.
think they are from Subgear (brand does not exist any more)
👍😎
I would not recommend tying the rope to the stern and pulling it. If the weight or anchor is hung up at all on the bottom it can very easily drag the transom underwater and cause a boat to sink ( maybe not a a zodiac) but any ridge hull boat. It is safest to tie the line to the bow and drive in a big arc or circle as to not get the line in the prop. this is a very common method for pulling an anchor using the slide and buoy.
thanks for your concern, but if you watch it again you see that, due to the ropebreak the line is pulled horizontal. We use the method for more then a decade now with a variety of boats without the slightest issue. (of course the weight of the shotline should in a reasonable relation to the size of the boat :-))
Yes wise words ,,,,NEVER,, tow an anchor off the stern of a boat, or if you do make sure you have a very sharp knife or an axe to smash it all away if it all goes wrong. If its snarls up solid and there's wind and tide it will pull a boat under rapidly, I nearly come a cropper with this one some years ago. Always pull off the bow in an arc
Best video I could find on the topic. Thanks very much!
Excellent show of theory, but definitely lacking in practical applications.... Not enough detail for those that don't know.... But those that know how and why, it's obvious...... That's not who you are trying to inform with this video. Just some friendly feedback.