While there's nothing wrong with how you upsized to 2" underground using bushings I'm curious why you didn't just put in 1.5/2" compool valves and bring the 1.5" lines right into a 2" tee on the other side? If there's just two suction ports we often use the 3-way version of these valves and plumb in the 1.5's on one side then put a 2" coupler over the side that comes into the pump so you have both 1.5" pipes feeding into the 2" opening in the front of the pump, no loss of flow. Pool tech and owner for 35 years yet I still enjoy watching videos and seeing how other people work, never too old to find a better way of doing stuff, very nice channel you have.
Anytime you have to rebuild the suction side manifold you have to keep the pools elevation in mind. If the equipment is below the pool grade and you just start cutting pipes the pools going to equalize and you'll lose water/ won't be able to glue fittings because it's constantly filling with pool water. You can put plugs in the skimmer to prevent water coming back through your cut pipes but not the drain suction side line
When dry fitting pipes, I have found that they don’t slide all the way in and once I add primer/glue they go all the way in and my measurements are off sometimes. Just wondering if you have any tips for that? Thank you! Very informative!
Jonathan the best thing I've found is to do a dry fitting and measure before you cut, measure the piece you're cutting and you should be good to go from there. Standard PVC fittings have about 1.5" of insertion so you can usually add 3" to the gap (1.5" for each side) you're filling in and be ok. So say you have a 3" gap in between two fittings. If you cut it at 6" you should be pretty close. Adding 3" is not the most exact way to measure but does put you in the ballpark. This does not apply to proprietary manufacturer fittings (such as pump and filter unions, as they all differ in regards to the amount of insertion they offer). One of the best things I've bought to make accurate cuts is the PVC shear from Milwaukee. All I have to do is measure out the piece I'm cutting and it makes a perfect cut every time. (Make sure you don't use it on old brittle pipe=cracks). It's made my measurements more accurate because I'm not dealing with angled cuts. If I'm working with equipment that has unions I always build out to the unions and then my very last step is attaching the unions to the equipment. After I make my cut I hold the piece up to the connection points to make sure my cut was good and appropriate length. Once I find I'm good then I'll go ahead and glue. To make the joint solid, twist and hold for 5-10 seconds to prevent backing out. Hope this helps!
Chlorine King Pool Service Wow, thank you for the great response! I’ll be picking up those shears this weekend for sure. Have you seen in your experience that when a pipe was glued slightly offset (kinda hard to explain what I mean), where it almost has tension. Would that cause it or the glue to crack prematurely? I had that happen recently and it’s been keeping me up wondering!
Johnathan you're welcome. I love the shears. M18 saw-zall on old pipe and the M12 shears on the new pipe is the winning combo I've found. No I haven't experienced the cracking but I do know what you mean by "offset pipe". If it's premature cracking usually it backed out a little bit when it was glued, thus stretching out the glue a little bit. I wouldn't lose sleep over it. The important thing is it's not leaking. If it's not leaking that means the ring of glue around the inside of the joint is good, where it counts!
Thanks for watching Jorge. It's not a requirement to be schedule 80, but is the better option. It's more expensive so most people don't do that. If you're messing with heaters schedule 80 would be a great idea.
Schedule 80 is not high temp specification, it is a sizing standard. CPVC pipe withstands higher temperatures than PVC regardless of schedule. That said, the larger the schedule number, like 80, the thicker the pipe and fitting walls in both PVC and CPVC.
Guys, how are you gonna not show the most important parts. All of the actual plumbing. Like parts where you actually plumb in the T and the 90. All of the plumbing. Very disappointed
Pool tech for 7 years. You do clean work. Nice job
Thank you very much! Thanks for watching!
While there's nothing wrong with how you upsized to 2" underground using bushings I'm curious why you didn't just put in 1.5/2" compool valves and bring the 1.5" lines right into a 2" tee on the other side? If there's just two suction ports we often use the 3-way version of these valves and plumb in the 1.5's on one side then put a 2" coupler over the side that comes into the pump so you have both 1.5" pipes feeding into the 2" opening in the front of the pump, no loss of flow. Pool tech and owner for 35 years yet I still enjoy watching videos and seeing how other people work, never too old to find a better way of doing stuff, very nice channel you have.
Thanks you saved me a lot of money with this video.
Thanks a lot Kevin. That's what it's all about. Have a great day!
Best video I've seen on this so far
Thanks for the kind words Denise! I'm glad to have helped out.
Nice video. You have some work to do there. Thanks for posting
Thanks Brian! The final product came out nicely so it was a win win! Thanks for posting.
Very cool video. Thank you.
You're welcome Anita. Thank you for posting!
Anytime you have to rebuild the suction side manifold you have to keep the pools elevation in mind. If the equipment is below the pool grade and you just start cutting pipes the pools going to equalize and you'll lose water/ won't be able to glue fittings because it's constantly filling with pool water. You can put plugs in the skimmer to prevent water coming back through your cut pipes but not the drain suction side line
That is good advice. I did a video of the plugs for the lines. They work awesome!
Vincent Divincenzo He said to be mindful of the pool water level right before he cut the suction pipes - you missed that. Very important
Thanks you guys really helped
Thanks Karen! I'm glad to help anytime!
When dry fitting pipes, I have found that they don’t slide all the way in and once I add primer/glue they go all the way in and my measurements are off sometimes. Just wondering if you have any tips for that? Thank you! Very informative!
Jonathan the best thing I've found is to do a dry fitting and measure before you cut, measure the piece you're cutting and you should be good to go from there. Standard PVC fittings have about 1.5" of insertion so you can usually add 3" to the gap (1.5" for each side) you're filling in and be ok. So say you have a 3" gap in between two fittings. If you cut it at 6" you should be pretty close. Adding 3" is not the most exact way to measure but does put you in the ballpark. This does not apply to proprietary manufacturer fittings (such as pump and filter unions, as they all differ in regards to the amount of insertion they offer).
One of the best things I've bought to make accurate cuts is the PVC shear from Milwaukee. All I have to do is measure out the piece I'm cutting and it makes a perfect cut every time. (Make sure you don't use it on old brittle pipe=cracks). It's made my measurements more accurate because I'm not dealing with angled cuts.
If I'm working with equipment that has unions I always build out to the unions and then my very last step is attaching the unions to the equipment.
After I make my cut I hold the piece up to the connection points to make sure my cut was good and appropriate length. Once I find I'm good then I'll go ahead and glue. To make the joint solid, twist and hold for 5-10 seconds to prevent backing out.
Hope this helps!
Chlorine King Pool Service Wow, thank you for the great response! I’ll be picking up those shears this weekend for sure.
Have you seen in your experience that when a pipe was glued slightly offset (kinda hard to explain what I mean), where it almost has tension. Would that cause it or the glue to crack prematurely? I had that happen recently and it’s been keeping me up wondering!
Johnathan you're welcome. I love the shears. M18 saw-zall on old pipe and the M12 shears on the new pipe is the winning combo I've found. No I haven't experienced the cracking but I do know what you mean by "offset pipe". If it's premature cracking usually it backed out a little bit when it was glued, thus stretching out the glue a little bit. I wouldn't lose sleep over it. The important thing is it's not leaking. If it's not leaking that means the ring of glue around the inside of the joint is good, where it counts!
Chlorine King Pool Service Great, thanks! What’s your email? I wanted to get more information on the consultation services you offer.
You're welcome. No problem at all. My email is erik@chlorinekingpools.com. Take care!
Hello, quick question, the unions and white pvc shouldn’t it be scheduled 80 (high temp pvc) ???
Thanks for watching Jorge. It's not a requirement to be schedule 80, but is the better option. It's more expensive so most people don't do that. If you're messing with heaters schedule 80 would be a great idea.
Sounds good enjoy your content thanks
Schedule 80 is not high temp specification, it is a sizing standard. CPVC pipe withstands higher temperatures than PVC regardless of schedule. That said, the larger the schedule number, like 80, the thicker the pipe and fitting walls in both PVC and CPVC.
It would be nice to leave 10 inches for each side I deal with a lot of installation where there is no space to do that!
Sometimes that is the case for sure. The builders so make the pads big enough to give us some room haha.
I’m getting started on my business why would a repair like this cost
What would
The manifold or the pump?
Chlorine King Pool Service the whole job you did on this video.
Guys, how are you gonna not show the most important parts. All of the actual plumbing. Like parts where you actually plumb in the T and the 90. All of the plumbing. Very disappointed
Sorry you're disappointed. I'll get around to making another one.