I just started beekeeping a few months ago. My first hive was a feral swarm that I kept in a 10 frame deep box. I saw the number of frames filling quick and the colony growing. They started chewing at the wooden entrance reducer for more room. Three months later they swarmed, right before the nectar flow. I attempted to prevent swarming by checker boarding blank frames between the full frames. I took out one frame of capped brood to use in a separate hive. The first hive still built queen cells and swarmed. Luckily, they landed on an accessible spot on my property and I caught the swarm. I will try adding a super earlier or splitting. Thanks.
Hi Paul, greetings from England. I, like others, also enjoy your videos, they have some very useful no nonsense information in all of them. One question I have is how do you manage to be in your apiary and not wear a veil, whilst at the same time your bees don’t seem interested in you when you open a hive or inspect them? Do you put something on your hands, arms and face to deter them from coming near you? Thanks very much, Dave Pendleton
Hello like to say again thanks for all the great informative information you share with all of us. I have two questions. You was talking about trying to keep a young queen so how old do you consider to be a old queen to keep from swarming ?. Next . I started out back in the 60’s with Bee’s an had to get out of it at the time I had over 130 hives and have FORGOTTEN A LOT and things are a lot different this day an time . I started back up this year with 3 hives my question is I think I going to do mostly honey sales but I would like
Hi Again Kathy Should have read this comment before sending my last reply... You are quite welcome. Glad to hear you have found our videos informative. Nice you have gotten back into bees! What you learned before will come back to you but beekeeping was a lot simpler before varroa mites and other health issues arrived. Keeping varroa mite levels low is the #1 tip for success! To answer your earlier question I'd try to have at least 10 hives before starting to sell nucs. That will give you a bit of a buffer from ups and downs.
Hi Paul. I enjoy your video's and have learned a lot in the last three years. I wish Devan Rawn hadn't quit I enjoyed his also. Mine is not a bee question, at this time. What is the music that starts your video? I've heard it years ago but can't recall where. Thanks and keep up the noble work.
How is it that swarms can draw comb so fast and efficiently because only the very young bee’s secret wax correct?… and the very young bee’s are not swarming… mainly the foragers are leaving the hive with Queen correct? Thank you, Dave from WV and OH
I have noticed you have a utility belt and do a quick grab of your hive tool. What utility belt do you have/where did you get it from/how did you make it please? I just don't have enough hands :)
Hi Tim I make and sell the belts. Not directly though. They are available at these beekeeping suppliers: Dancing Bee Equipment Innisfil Creek Honey Backyard Beekeeper Supply
What would happen if you put a queen excluder on top and bottom of the brood box so the queen couldn’t get out?? Would that be a smart idea to keep your bees from swarming??
Hey Paul....quick question...i know the queen cannont outlay a 10 frame deep...what about a 7 frame deep...how close would it be. I want to try single brood chamber with 7 frame Apimaye. ...just dont know the numbers? thanks!!
Hi Natserog I'd suggest you watch Devan Rawn's video on single brood chambers. He put some thought into the math. That might work but you'd have to try to know. It seems really small to me but I know a beekeeper that uses a single medium depth brood chamber sometimes and has had success.
It wouldn't work with two queens in a swarm preparation scenario. They find each other and fight until there is only one left. Occasionaly in mid summer colonies have two queens for a short while. This when the queen is being superseded.
Sir does university has articles about crystillization and fermentation of honey? If yes then kindly share the link۔ There are so many myth about these topics in Asea۔
Hello in Pakistan! I know you are right all the misinformation. We don't have enough information about honey on our website. Our former colleagues here in Guelph did a great deal of research on honey crystallization and fermentation. It was all written in journals and books before the internet came along. We do plan to post some of this on our website but I'm sure you could find more online somewhere. Try to find something from a reputable source.
Sir my 2nd question is that، In ripe and unmature Honey there is only a difference of moisture level? or they have difference in some ingredients also?
I am very new to beekeeping. I have a single deep box with all ten frames being used. When should I add another deep? Please keep in mind that it is December 13th and I am in South Alabama. I have wanted to get into beekeeping for years and I was given this colony of bees in late October.
Hi Jody I wish I could answer your question. We add another box when the first one has 8 or more frames covered with bees. Local beekeepers would know more about when that is likely. I'd suggest you watch our video 'Comb Building' It gives you a good idea what to be looking for. Good luck with your bees!.
I disagree that all swarm cells make "swarmy" bees. That makes no sense unless you are saying that (3:17) because you are in the business of selling queen bees.
It depends on if the hive is swarming weeks earlier than average, then no don't use them. All bees swarm so if you catch them during a normal swarm time cycle you are fine. "In fact swarn cell make the best queens", Bob Binnie explaining the use of a double screen board. Go ahead and take issue with a 40 year commercial beekeeper.
Hi Mark I wrote this and sent it to Mike at Coon Lake last night. I think mentioned his thoughts on another comment thread. For what it's worth I copied it for you. Thanks for the thought provoking question! The Buckfast bees we work with have a very low tendency to swarm so it's not really true that all bees swarm. By setting a high bar and constantly selecting for low tendency to swarm we can maintain this trait. You are right that bees that swarm late are better than those that swarm early. Unless it's so late that neither build up enough to be productive or survive the following winter. You also have to consider that there may be reasons, other than the hives genetics, that the swarm timing varies. Not using swarms cell in splits covers you from inadvertently breeding from stock more prone to swarming. Many beekeepers wouldn't consider the timing you mention or have enough colonies to compare timing so a general recommendation is what I was trying to relay. We take every opportunity to improve our stock by raising queens from select breeders. Splitting hives that swarm means a beekeeper is propagating from many colonies so can't be as selective. Please have a look at our video 'Why Buy Queens' for more thoughts on this topic.
Hey guys. Is it such a huge deal to have queens from emergency queen cells? I have at least 2 hives that have been split when swarm cells appeared as well. My swarms this year were insane, wondering if i should requeen with a bred queen?
Hi There No it's not such a big deal. Emergency queens can do ok but they don't last as long about 30% of the time. You could also watch our video 'Why Buy Queens' for more thoughts on this topic.
Hello sir، hope you are fine، this is Muhammad sultan here from Pakistan، sir I have 2 questions ، 1) we have harvested wild Honey Recently and all that hives were completly sealed but there Honey was still very thin like water۔ sir can I say it mature Honey or not?
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre I recently talked to a bee keeper that had 80 hives in the past. He didn't particularly like to checker board a hive. He said he only saw 50/50 odds of success. So I will try other methods as well. Honestly my odds of success have been much lower.
Paul I'm not getting where the swarm cells promote swarming is coming from. Kirsten Traynor recently expressed the same opinion. I've never seen that. Timing. It depends on if the hive is swarming weeks earlier than average, then no don't use them. All bees swarm so if you catch them during a normal swarm time cycle you are fine. "In fact swarn cell make the best queens", Bob Binnie explaining the use of a double screen board.
Hi Mike Thanks for the thought provoking question! The Buckfast bees we work with have a very low tendency to swarm so it's not really true that all bees swarm. By setting a high bar and constantly selecting for low tendency to swarm we can maintain this trait. You are right that bees that swarm late are better than those that swarm early. Unless it's so late that neither build up enough to be productive or survive the following winter. You also have to consider that there may be reasons, other than the hives genetics, that the swarm timing varies. Not using swarms cell in splits covers you from inadvertently breeding from stock more prone to swarming. Many beekeepers wouldn't consider the timing you mention or have enough colonies to compare timing so a general recommendation is what I was trying to relay. We take every opportunity to improve our stock by raising queens from select breeders. Splitting hives that swarm means a beekeeper is propagating from many colonies so can't be as selective. Please have a look at our video 'Why Buy Queens' for more thoughts on this topic.
Oops I hit the wrong button. But I would like to sales a few nuc along the way also so how many hives should I have before getting into the sale of nuc .I know I have heard people say you can not do both ?
Hi Kathy SH makes some good points. Once you get established and have had success for a couple years you could start selling nucs. Work toward making splits for yourself first. You want to become self sufficient before selling to others. I do find that beekeepers that eventually get into selling nucs become great beekeepers. It takes some knowhow to keep your own bees going and come up with nucs for other beekeepers every year. Going step by step is always a good way to learn. Perhaps we misunderstand your experience level. If so please don't take offense. Hey, I'm Canadian. We can't not be nice!
I love your videos, been watching for years...however I disagree all swarm cells make "swarmy" bees...all bees swarm,some swarm to requeen themselves..swarm queens are usually the best queens..however if your whole yard isn't built up to swarm except one hive that's prematurely trying to swarm or just determined to swarm ,then you wouldn't want to use those cells because they are likely swarmy.But if they are on a flow and their all gonna swarm if you don't do something then those cells would be ok..maybe some just believe All swarm cells make swarmy bees,but I strongly would have to disagree. I only use my grafted cells or swarm cells,no emergency cells and my bees are strong but not swarmy...there's so much factors to consider I can see for video purpose it's easier to not recommend swarm cells of course as well..
@@sinisterhipp0 yeah I think you're right,Paul has taught me alot of good stuff over the years I was only bringing awareness, But for the record I love Paul's teaching
Hi Baddest bees. Nice to hear you have enjoyed our videos. Not everyone agrees with me on this topic but it is common thought in the bee breeding community. Here are a few thoughts I sent to another commenter. Thanks for the thought provoking question! The Buckfast bees we work with have a very low tendency to swarm so it's not really true that all bees swarm. By setting a high bar and constantly selecting for low tendency to swarm we can maintain this trait. You are right that bees that swarm late are better than those that swarm early. Unless it's so late that neither build up enough to be productive or survive the following winter. You also have to consider that there may be reasons, other than the hives genetics, that the swarm timing varies. Not using swarms cell in splits covers you from inadvertently breeding from stock more prone to swarming. Many beekeepers wouldn't consider the timing you mention or have enough colonies to compare timing so a general recommendation is what I was trying to relay. We take every opportunity to improve our stock by raising queens from select breeders. Splitting hives that swarm means a beekeeper is propagating from many colonies so can't be as selective. Please have a look at our video 'Why Buy Queens' for more thoughts on this topic.
For me, I never use queen sells for allowing the hive to requiem itself simply because the genetics in my area are few and poor. So I always bring in queens from a trusted queen breeder. But get your point.
New bee keepers are way to paranoid they're bees will swarm it seems like .. even if they do swarm not the end of the world. We normally don't see much swarming off because we're taking splits off in April making up nucs. That will be different next year made up the nucs last August. We do normally trigger some swarming when boxing up nucs for customers .. get alot confused bees in the air sets off production colony or two to swarm every year on pickup day
Swarms on pick up day. Your customers get some entertainment thrown into the bargain! haha You are right that swarming isn't the end of the world. I hope our video gave beekeepers some ideas to help prevent swarming but they shouldn't get discouraged if it happens. We both know that not everything goes according to our plan!
I just cant bring myself to kill a queen who has faithfully done her work for so long, I know production goes down but I feel she deserves to live out her days in peace.
The quiet start made end up blasting my eardrums!!!!😅
Great to see you back with new videos
Thanks Julian!
I just started beekeeping a few months ago. My first hive was a feral swarm that I kept in a 10 frame deep box. I saw the number of frames filling quick and the colony growing. They started chewing at the wooden entrance reducer for more room. Three months later they swarmed, right before the nectar flow.
I attempted to prevent swarming by checker boarding blank frames between the full frames. I took out one frame of capped brood to use in a separate hive. The first hive still built queen cells and swarmed. Luckily, they landed on an accessible spot on my property and I caught the swarm. I will try adding a super earlier or splitting. Thanks.
Good for you for getting into bees by catching a swarm. Preventing swarming is a goal. Sometimes bees do what we want... sometimes they don't!
Hello ! I am Adrian from Romania and I have been following this you tube channel for two years. Thanks for the videos and for posting again
Our pleasure! Thanks for letting me know where you live and how we have been able to help.
I'm glad you're back.
Thanks!
Great. Thanks. Looking at it from a creation perspective makes even more sense 🙂👍
A memonous return, how are you? We missed you
Thanks guys! We appreciate your support.
Always enjoy watching your videos. Great advice!
Thanks for your work, i did watch all of you video and you did a great job
Thanks Jean-Marc!
Thanks for posting, your videos are incredibly interesting and i so enjoy watching them, cheers.
Thanks for watching. Cheers to you too Martyn!
Hi Paul, greetings from England. I, like others, also enjoy your videos, they have some very useful no nonsense information in all of them. One question I have is how do you manage to be in your apiary and not wear a veil, whilst at the same time your bees don’t seem interested in you when you open a hive or inspect them? Do you put something on your hands, arms and face to deter them from coming near you? Thanks very much, Dave Pendleton
Thank You .
You are welcome!
Great stuff, please upload more videos 👍
We'll try but you'll have to wait a bit for more. Cheers!
Hello like to say again thanks for all the great informative information you share with all of us. I have two questions. You was talking about trying to keep a young queen so how old do you consider to be a old queen to keep from swarming ?. Next . I started out back in the 60’s with Bee’s an had to get out of it at the time I had over 130 hives and have FORGOTTEN A LOT and things are a lot different this day an time . I started back up this year with 3 hives my question is I think I going to do mostly honey sales but I would like
Hi Again Kathy
Should have read this comment before sending my last reply...
You are quite welcome. Glad to hear you have found our videos informative. Nice you have gotten back into bees! What you learned before will come back to you but beekeeping was a lot simpler before varroa mites and other health issues arrived. Keeping varroa mite levels low is the #1 tip for success!
To answer your earlier question I'd try to have at least 10 hives before starting to sell nucs. That will give you a bit of a buffer from ups and downs.
Hi Paul. I enjoy your video's and have learned a lot in the last three years. I wish Devan Rawn hadn't quit I enjoyed his also. Mine is not a bee question, at this time. What is the music that starts your video? I've heard it years ago but can't recall where. Thanks and keep up the noble work.
So helpful. thank you so much.
Thanks Brad!
How is it that swarms can draw comb so fast and efficiently because only the very young bee’s secret wax correct?… and the very young bee’s are not swarming… mainly the foragers are leaving the hive with Queen correct?
Thank you,
Dave from WV and OH
Thanks
You are welcome Alaa
Hello Paul,
Do you have any video regarding the demaree method?… if so what is the link?
Thank you
Hi There
No we don't use that method so haven't done a video on the topic.
I have a problem with maids, males and a number of larvae in front of the flight board Thank you
Natural expulsion is better or division of colonies?
We prefer to divide the hives over letting them swarm. That way we keep both colonies in our hives.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentrethank you
Welcome back
Thanks!
Helpful as always.
Glad you think so!
At the onset of spring, what is the best way to deal with colonies?
Can you explain the symptoms of acarin disease (bronchial dream) and thank you
Hi There
I'd suggest you look that up online. It can be tricky to diagnose. Fortunately they aren't much of a problem in most areas.
I have noticed you have a utility belt and do a quick grab of your hive tool. What utility belt do you have/where did you get it from/how did you make it please? I just don't have enough hands :)
Hi Tim
I make and sell the belts. Not directly though. They are available at these beekeeping suppliers:
Dancing Bee Equipment
Innisfil Creek Honey
Backyard Beekeeper Supply
What would happen if you put a queen excluder on top and bottom of the brood box so the queen couldn’t get out?? Would that be a smart idea to keep your bees from swarming??
Good thought but then a colony couldn't requeen itself when necessary.
Hey Paul....quick question...i know the queen cannont outlay a 10 frame deep...what about a 7 frame deep...how close would it be. I want to try single brood chamber with 7 frame Apimaye. ...just dont know the numbers? thanks!!
Hi Natserog
I'd suggest you watch Devan Rawn's video on single brood chambers. He put some thought into the math.
That might work but you'd have to try to know. It seems really small to me but I know a beekeeper that uses a single medium depth brood chamber sometimes and has had success.
Can a hive have more than one queen with no risk of swarming as long as u have space in the hive ?
It wouldn't work with two queens in a swarm preparation scenario. They find each other and fight until there is only one left.
Occasionaly in mid summer colonies have two queens for a short while. This when the queen is being superseded.
Sir does university has articles about crystillization and fermentation of honey? If yes then kindly share the link۔
There are so many myth about these topics in Asea۔
Hello in Pakistan! I know you are right all the misinformation. We don't have enough information about honey on our website. Our former colleagues here in Guelph did a great deal of research on honey crystallization and fermentation. It was all written in journals and books before the internet came along. We do plan to post some of this on our website but I'm sure you could find more online somewhere. Try to find something from a reputable source.
But since the major nectar flow comes at different times in different locations, how can bees know that it will come soon?
Good question. I don't know how to answer that but they do sense it somehow.
Sir my 2nd question is that،
In ripe and unmature Honey there is only a difference of moisture level? or they have difference in some ingredients also?
I am very new to beekeeping. I have a single deep box with all ten frames being used. When should I add another deep? Please keep in mind that it is December 13th and I am in South Alabama. I have wanted to get into beekeeping for years and I was given this colony of bees in late October.
Hi Jody
I wish I could answer your question. We add another box when the first one has 8 or more frames covered with bees. Local beekeepers would know more about when that is likely.
I'd suggest you watch our video 'Comb Building' It gives you a good idea what to be looking for. Good luck with your bees!.
I disagree that all swarm cells make "swarmy" bees. That makes no sense unless you are saying that (3:17) because you are in the business of selling queen bees.
It depends on if the hive is swarming weeks earlier than average, then no don't use them. All bees swarm so if you catch them during a normal swarm time cycle you are fine. "In fact swarn cell make the best queens", Bob Binnie explaining the use of a double screen board. Go ahead and take issue with a 40 year commercial beekeeper.
Hi Mark
I wrote this and sent it to Mike at Coon Lake last night. I think mentioned his thoughts on another comment thread. For what it's worth I copied it for you.
Thanks for the thought provoking question!
The Buckfast bees we work with have a very low tendency to swarm so it's not really true that all bees swarm. By setting a high bar and constantly selecting for low tendency to swarm we can maintain this trait.
You are right that bees that swarm late are better than those that swarm early. Unless it's so late that neither build up enough to be productive or survive the following winter. You also have to consider that there may be reasons, other than the hives genetics, that the swarm timing varies. Not using swarms cell in splits covers you from inadvertently breeding from stock more prone to swarming. Many beekeepers wouldn't consider the timing you mention or have enough colonies to compare timing so a general recommendation is what I was trying to relay.
We take every opportunity to improve our stock by raising queens from select breeders. Splitting hives that swarm means a beekeeper is propagating from many colonies so can't be as selective. Please have a look at our video
'Why Buy Queens' for more thoughts on this topic.
When using single-deep brood boxes, do we need to do anything special to get them to move up to the medium super when we don't have drawn comb?
Hi Paul
SH gives you some good advice.
You could also see our video titled 'Comb Building' It covers your question in detail.
If you can find some beeswax from another beekeeper, you can melt it down and paint the frames with the wax. I’ve done this and it helps a lot.
Hey guys. Is it such a huge deal to have queens from emergency queen cells?
I have at least 2 hives that have been split when swarm cells appeared as well. My swarms this year were insane, wondering if i should requeen with a bred queen?
Hi There
No it's not such a big deal. Emergency queens can do ok but they don't last as long about 30% of the time. You could also watch our video 'Why Buy Queens' for more thoughts on this topic.
Hello sir، hope you are fine، this is Muhammad sultan here from Pakistan، sir I have 2 questions ،
1) we have harvested wild Honey Recently and all that hives were completly sealed but there Honey was still very thin like water۔
sir can I say it mature Honey or not?
I like the video thank you for all the info. Quick question. Have you ever tried checker boxing a hive?
Actually I haven't tried that. I suppose it could help in some cases but I use different methods to accomplish the same goals.
@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre I recently talked to a bee keeper that had 80 hives in the past. He didn't particularly like to checker board a hive. He said he only saw 50/50 odds of success. So I will try other methods as well. Honestly my odds of success have been much lower.
Paul I'm not getting where the swarm cells promote swarming is coming from. Kirsten Traynor recently expressed the same opinion. I've never seen that. Timing. It depends on if the hive is swarming weeks earlier than average, then no don't use them. All bees swarm so if you catch them during a normal swarm time cycle you are fine. "In fact swarn cell make the best queens", Bob Binnie explaining the use of a double screen board.
Hi Mike
Thanks for the thought provoking question!
The Buckfast bees we work with have a very low tendency to swarm so it's not really true that all bees swarm. By setting a high bar and constantly selecting for low tendency to swarm we can maintain this trait.
You are right that bees that swarm late are better than those that swarm early. Unless it's so late that neither build up enough to be productive or survive the following winter. You also have to consider that there may be reasons, other than the hives genetics, that the swarm timing varies. Not using swarms cell in splits covers you from inadvertently breeding from stock more prone to swarming. Many beekeepers wouldn't consider the timing you mention or have enough colonies to compare timing so a general recommendation is what I was trying to relay.
We take every opportunity to improve our stock by raising queens from select breeders. Splitting hives that swarm means a beekeeper is propagating from many colonies so can't be as selective. Please have a look at our video
'Why Buy Queens' for more thoughts on this topic.
Oops I hit the wrong button. But I would like to sales a few nuc along the way also so how many hives should I have before getting into the sale of nuc .I know I have heard people say you can not do both ?
Hi Kathy
SH makes some good points. Once you get established and have had success for a couple years you could start selling nucs. Work toward making splits for yourself first. You want to become self sufficient before selling to others. I do find that beekeepers that eventually get into selling nucs become great beekeepers. It takes some knowhow to keep your own bees going and come up with nucs for other beekeepers every year. Going step by step is always a good way to learn.
Perhaps we misunderstand your experience level. If so please don't take offense. Hey, I'm Canadian. We can't not be nice!
I love your videos, been watching for years...however I disagree all swarm cells make "swarmy" bees...all bees swarm,some swarm to requeen themselves..swarm queens are usually the best queens..however if your whole yard isn't built up to swarm except one hive that's prematurely trying to swarm or just determined to swarm ,then you wouldn't want to use those cells because they are likely swarmy.But if they are on a flow and their all gonna swarm if you don't do something then those cells would be ok..maybe some just believe All swarm cells make swarmy bees,but I strongly would have to disagree. I only use my grafted cells or swarm cells,no emergency cells and my bees are strong but not swarmy...there's so much factors to consider I can see for video purpose it's easier to not recommend swarm cells of course as well..
@@sinisterhipp0 yeah I think you're right,Paul has taught me alot of good stuff over the years I was only bringing awareness, But for the record I love Paul's teaching
@@sinisterhipp0 I think he is saying that (3:17) because he is in the business of selling queen bees.
Hi Baddest bees. Nice to hear you have enjoyed our videos.
Not everyone agrees with me on this topic but it is common thought in the bee breeding community.
Here are a few thoughts I sent to another commenter.
Thanks for the thought provoking question!
The Buckfast bees we work with have a very low tendency to swarm so it's not really true that all bees swarm. By setting a high bar and constantly selecting for low tendency to swarm we can maintain this trait.
You are right that bees that swarm late are better than those that swarm early. Unless it's so late that neither build up enough to be productive or survive the following winter. You also have to consider that there may be reasons, other than the hives genetics, that the swarm timing varies. Not using swarms cell in splits covers you from inadvertently breeding from stock more prone to swarming. Many beekeepers wouldn't consider the timing you mention or have enough colonies to compare timing so a general recommendation is what I was trying to relay.
We take every opportunity to improve our stock by raising queens from select breeders. Splitting hives that swarm means a beekeeper is propagating from many colonies so can't be as selective. Please have a look at our video
'Why Buy Queens' for more thoughts on this topic.
A good discussion!
For me, I never use queen sells for allowing the hive to requiem itself simply because the genetics in my area are few and poor. So I always bring in queens from a trusted queen breeder. But get your point.
New bee keepers are way to paranoid they're bees will swarm it seems like .. even if they do swarm not the end of the world. We normally don't see much swarming off because we're taking splits off in April making up nucs. That will be different next year made up the nucs last August. We do normally trigger some swarming when boxing up nucs for customers .. get alot confused bees in the air sets off production colony or two to swarm every year on pickup day
Swarms on pick up day. Your customers get some entertainment thrown into the bargain! haha
You are right that swarming isn't the end of the world. I hope our video gave beekeepers some ideas to help prevent swarming but they shouldn't get discouraged if it happens. We both know that not everything goes according to our plan!
🐝🐝👍
:)
Good
Shall we go to a swarm or to collect honey?
🐝
you cruel man for clipping the wing of the Queen
The queen doesn't have nerves in her wings so she can't feel her wings being clipped. Once she has mated she never needs to fly again.
I just cant bring myself to kill a queen who has faithfully done her work for so long, I know production goes down but I feel she deserves to live out her days in peace.
I know how you feel. That's why I do it quickly and get it over with.
Any thing I can watch on storing dry drawn comb
Thanks
Good