I appreciate the video. However I would definitely have to agree with what others have said about using a short radius block for leveling frets, it's really not a good idea since the goal should be to remove as little material as possible, you need something that spans most of the board. Also using a beam is preferred to follow the string path for more precision. One other thing I'd like to recommend is to prop the body up at the neck joint also, it's important to be aware that the truss rod won't do anything for the last few frets by the neck joint, so regardless of how straight you get the neck before leveling, you will either take off too much or too little(depending on how the guitars neck and truss rod reacts) of those last frets which could cause problems with action when the neck is under tension from the strings. I hope that makes sense? The blanket/towel is a good idea though as it will even out any pressure over the whole neck, as opposed to using something solid that would need to be clamped over the entire neck to keep it completely rigid. that's something I actually never thought about until I saw this!
Greetings, may I ask why you think this removes more material than a flat beam ? Can you explain in detail? Have you ever tried this method? Just curious. Greetings from Scotland 🏴
the radius one is obviously better, the beam one will leave facets, it won't follow the radius exactly, whether you use the beam or the short radius one doesn't have an effect on how much you take off the fret, duh
@@curtrod Exactly, I don't get why a flat beam would be preferable over a radius one, with maybe the preference for an aluminum machined one over a wooden one, as wood can and will definitely move and not be as accurate. But other than that, I'd love the OP explain us why a FLAT beam would be better a better use on RADIUSED frets, which are basically parts of a circle : a 12 inches radius (305mm for my European people) is the half of a diameter of 24 inches (610mm) .With that in mind people can easily understand the concept of the radius of a neck, and that the flatter the radius, the bigger the circle is. So I'd really appreciate an explanation on how can a flat anything be better on a circle anything, as far as precision is concerned ? Also, a medium/short radius block is actually preferable over a long one, because you often see frets that are all over the place height wise, as for once, I would recommend you (the OP) to watch the video that stewmac recently made in this regard , as it is very true and interesting.
Thank you, I've watched a TON of videos on this subject (because I will be doing this myself soon) and this one had all the good tips I've heard from other videos, but was quick and to the point, which I appreciate 👍
Great video fellow Mainer, I have seen a lot of videos describing these tactics but I have found yours to be the most informative. Going to save this to my Technical youtube section for sure.
Whenever I'm done working on frets, change strings or even just cleaning frets I use a jewelry/silver polishing cloths. They sell them in department stores around the jewelry/watch sections. You use the reusable ones not the disposable. They're usually 2 cloths stitched together on the top; a white one and colored one. The white has the dry treatment that you use that first, I usually use some hot breath on the fret (like you might do with eyeglasses). It'll polish it to a shine, then the colored cloth is just a cloth that you use buff it. It does the best job, I find it FAR better than 0000 steel wool. When you're done your frets will feel like glass when you bend a string. They're like $8 and should last you literally hundreds and hundreds of uses. One other thing to try instead of steel wool are the Arm & Hammer Magic Eraser sponges. I'll use them on frets and hardwear. I actually started using it with an Eric Johnson Strat when I first got it. The Lacquer on the neck could get sticky sitting hot weather, usually for the first year or two and then it's fine. A lot of people will use steel wool to rough it up so it's not sticky, but I find its just TOO course. Those Magic Eraser though are perfect; just 2 or 3 light passes and it's done. It's a VERY fine abrasive (that's why they work so well for cleaning) that will just scuff the very top layer. Steel wool take too much off, and some of it inevitably gets rubbed back into the neck. The result of the sponge looks and feels just like it's a satin finish instead of gloss.
Browsing all of you, friends luthiers, I can see your way to level frets and so on, however it's interesting and I've to make synthesis. My own practice is to use a leveling beam , a 3 corners file to crown, different sand papers and very important, a marker, avoiding to file to much matter of the frets.
This is the old school way, the way countless luthiers apprentices have learned, and it will get the job done : that being said, nowadays there are easier tools to use, not necessarily for the pros, but for the DIY people. An aluminum cnc machined radius block and a concave crowning file are infinitely easier to use for beginners and even advanced DIYers. Then different grits sand papers and/or gums , but one tool that is mandatory to me would be the fret rocker to constantly check the frets all over the neck. I would say that a fret rocker is even more important than a sharpie/marker, as I know a lot of pros who only use their eyes, VERY good lighting along with a fret rocker, without having to mark the frets. But I would not recommend this for beginners, for them I'd definitely use a sharpie as it is an inexpensive and accurate way to see lower and high frets
@@SociopatheAssume , I own some Guran stuff too! 😉 But why am I using old school manner, maybe some natural preference. I am noticing the com 4 years ago!!!! 🙄But I still use old manner...
Thanks for the video - a few things for consideration - 1) I use a full length leveling beam, and have found more consistent results. No need to worry about a rocker when you do a full length level. 2) Good idea to consider creating a fall off on the last few frets, where you have no impact with truss rod adjustment. The largest string vibration radius happens further down the neck and the "heel" can be a problem area if you desire little relief and low action. 3) MOST importantly - do no level the neck only off the wood - it is not always "true". The neck must be level before you proceed with a leveling block - if you find on initial touch that a "group" of frets that are together are contacted the neck is likely not straight. I find assuring the neck is level after some rest time if the relief needed significant adjustment, the first lite touch with a full leveling block tells the whole story..if you have the neck true, if a full fret level is really required, etc. There are a number of key items to consider in one's approach, above are a few of them. (:~>
You do wrong. Every professional luthier will tell you not to use radius block. That's not all. Not to use even to short fret levelling beam. You should use at least 16inch levelling beam. If to short you will take of more material in the middle area then at the ends of your fretboard. Radius blocks are used for fretboard levelling once all frets are removed of the fretboard.
The problem with this is if you have a few bad areas (especially if it's your first 10 times to refret) You will lower all the frets if you use the big beam at the start of leveling... to get those high areas level. Because the big beams rocks over that high area it will create low and high spots all over until that fret gets close to level. It chews off a ton of metal needlessly. Then you create other problems....frets that are too low. This is one of the most common problems for newby's. No reason to if you get those bad areas close with a small leveler before you go to the big beam You can use a 1" x 1" x 6" piece of ebony or rosewood that's been leveled. (search rosewood online) Only use the small beam on the exact area where the rocker clicks....not the whole fret. This saves a lot of height on your frets....
@@cugir321 That makes sense, good advice. After targeting the location where you're getting rocking, would you then hit the whole board with a large leveling beam?
@@electropentatonic Yep...shouldn't take near as much to level the whole board. You don't have to get the targeted area perfect.....get it close then use the long leveling beam on the whole neck.
Using a radius block to level frets can create uneven/unleveled frets on the edge's (under the "E" strings")......Folks don't take my word for it......rocker them after you use a radius block. Rocker your frets first before doing your final level. Highlight the frets that are very bad. It's not unusual to have a few frets that are very unlevel. (especially with a refret) Deal with those frets first using a short sanding bar in the local area only. When they're close go to the long beam and level. When you're done, capo each fret and test for buzzes. It's not a really good level unless you can capo to at least the 7th fret without buzzes. Being able to capo is the difference between an amateur and a pro.
Great instructions, thanks. Do you have any recommendations for a specific short sanding bar? Do you recommend to first start levelling the frets with a beam instead of a radius block?
@@renandias7926 I use a short piece of 1" x 1" x 6 " piece of leveled rose wood to level specific areas. I leveled it on my big beam. It was about 10 bucks on a speciality wood site online. I use the top of it from time to time to get a little rosewood to fill in chips when refretting. You can get ebony ones too....may be a little harder wood. They are short and only sand under one string. This is important....do this first and it will save the height of your frets overall. No reason to use the beam on the whole neck at the beginning of the level if there's only a few really bad places. If you level those bad spots then when you use the big beam on all the frets the level will go very quick and you won't take a lot of metal off and get all the frets too low. This is the biggest problem with newby's...getting all the frets too low. Actually I don't level any more with a radius block unless the outside edges are high....and that is rare....just a quick touch up. Just stick to the beam. You don't need to use the radius block on the frets.....just the fingerboard. I use a beam for the main level....it's a long one...a couple feet long. Use a rocker before you start leveling to find the worse high spots. Don't mark the whole fret....just the part the rocks. That's all you want to go over with the small leveler. Once all the worse areas are close (does not have to be perfect....) then use the big beam. In the end.....the real secret is learning to install the frets so they're all seated properly.....you'll still have to deal with areas that are unlevel but not much. The slot size and depth, the wire size, the radius of the wire, and how you seat them is all part of the game. It really is a science. Most people on youtube don't tell you this....they just want clicks. Do a cheap pawn shot guitar first. When you get good.....you'll be able to make them play better then your 3000.00 guitar. I have a 50.00 chinese ebay strat type guitar they sell at christmas each year. It's amazing. Cost me about 50.00 to upgrade a few things. Had some grover tuners sitting around that I put on it. Also a Peavey rockmaster that's my favorite guitar (not the marvel types...plain one)....added a neck pickup too and it became a monster. The key is they play like a million bucks.
Thank you very much, Su Freidman. Your comments on frets that are badly seated are what most players and luthiers take for granted. A badly seated fret will move a lot more with the wood reacting to temperature changes, and the levelling will never be perfect for more than a few weeks. Thanks for your detailed advices on how to approach fret levelling, gave me more confidence to start the journey.
@@renandias7926 Not if you glue them in....I glue them all.....just try to get them seated well.....you can get away with a few that are not perfect but must be close.
Greetings Su, can you please explain in detail how a radius block can create uneven or unlevelled frets on edges under the e strings ? Is it 1. Because the fret radius is actually larger than the fingerboard radius by 1mm or so and so using a radius block with the same radius of the fretboard will make the e strings a bit lower ? 2. Because of accidental side to side tilting of the block when running up and down the length of the fingerboard which would mess up the radius a little ? 3. Because when the block runs up the frets it might get raised on one side by a high fret on one side and cut into the opposite side at a sharper angle? Thanks
I've watched probably 50 similar videos and am surprised to see how many people are unable to see the problems with their methods. I'm having fun with my first re-fret without buying cauls, clamps, supports, fret-benders, etc.
www.amazon.com/fret-leveling-beam/s?k=fret+leveling+beam And you didn't notice how wrong this one is? You got poor attention span then bud. A re-fret is not the same as fret leveling. One merely mowing your lawn the other is ripping out the old sod and transplant entirely new sod ,and then eventually also mowing it before using it. You only put replace the frets when you've had so many fret leveling that there is not enough material left on the frets to get the perfectly flat . It's like wearing your brake out to the pads. What he does in this video is going to cost him money. He obviously is confident enough in his technique to make a video which means he's done it more than once which is sad, because if he'd only done a little reading or found the right videos he would know he's doing it wrong, taking off way too much material with that stupid short curved leveling beam. It's not even a beam it's a fucking sanding block. Google leveling beam , you know what you'll find .giant ass long blocks of steel , i.e. BEAMS. that you stick sandpaper to. www.amazon.com/fret-leveling-beam/s?k=fret+leveling+beam
@@stevenutter3614 What??? My entire remark was referring to how people are unable to see their mistakes!!! You're going off like a bomb. Why are you insulting my attention span? You got weird problems.
Some of these comments lol. My radius block is 6 ft long.....whole project is done with 1/3 pass. Steel wool the frets and put some snake oil on the nut and it's the best she's ever played.
Hi Mark, Thanks for the video, I failed my leveling process and ruined my refrets. The problem is that, with frets rocker, some spot seems okay at moment then starting rock at a second. Then that's when everything starts to go down. Because when I remove the high spot, then you will find out the you ruined the frets you previously level. Really stressful, then you end up taking down too much material till it's not useful 😕
You using 80 grit paper or what? This is a very delicate process, removing very minimal fret material. If you're frets were that far our of whack your neck is toast or you didn't straighten it to begin with.
Dan from guns & guitars had a suggestion which I tried and really like the theory and the results. Below the 12th fret he takes off a little more material off every fret. Remove just a little extra material, just a few strokes with the stone, get those frets down a bit.
It seems the radius block would be the tool to use, but so many say a long straight flat sanding beam is what to use. Would you do a pro/con on this? My son and I tinker with guitars for personal workable instruments & hobby. I/we will use this info, we want to do best to eliminate problems & shorten time. Thank you (hope my comment is visible most are hidden from view not sure why)
Just taking a guess, I believe the radius block may be when you're working on the raw fretboard with no frets, If you use them on the fret, you're giving them a curve which is wrong. You want the frets to be Straight/level. What gives straight frets a round look is the crowning and polishing
The proof is in the pudding eh? People either repeat what they have heard or they speak from objective experience (whether small or large) There seem to be good reasons why this is a bad idea … but I have a feeling these reasons may not staff up to the test . I guess it’s best to try it and see. Im starting to wonder if some of the time the block is elevated on the higher frets as you run up and down the fretboard and taking then down first or he majority of them.
Pretty much anything works. There's a myth that if you use a radius block that the frets are flatter than the radius of the board. This is true, but it's an incredibly microscopic difference. Radius blocks are great for maintaining radius when you have to do an extensive leveling job, but if you just have to level one or two frets, it's overkill
Thanks! The 'ol road dog way of guitar repair;done the same thing,pillow and all. Hilariously cool and a good tutorial, the short radius sanding block,not.
Why didn’t you put a board into the blanket, then put the guitar neck on top, then it won’t bow and it won’t scratch the neck and you will be guaranteed that the neck won’t bow. Just a thought.
Hi. I don’t understand your comment. The radius of the block will likely be the same radius as the fretboard . Ok the frets will have a slightly bigger radius of the fretboard because of the fret height so add on 1mm or so which won’t make much difference. Thanks
Radius block is better used for leveling the fret board , You need a leveling beam for the frets. Also you should remove the nut or at least tape it off. But what ever works for you on your personal guitars.
Guys on TH-cam videos they don't really know what they're talking about they're doing this to make money and people wind up screwing up their instruments your best bet is to try and find professionals to give you explanations not people like this
This guy is awful. By far the WORST fret work I've ever seen on TH-cam. He's going to cause a LOT of expensive repairs for people when they ruin their frets and have to pay for a refret
Hi my friend .I am curious …If it’s the radius block you don’t like, could you explain in detail what the problems are and why they happen. And also if you have tried this method yourself. Greetings from Scotland 🏴
I have very fine straight ding/groove in my 9th fret (almost not visible) and when I stretch the G string it will hang up very slightly in the groove (it catches on the very fine groove). Again, this is a very very fine groove (like a string pressed hard into the fret as it runs in the same direction as the string). I could not even see it without magnifying reading glasses. Can I just fix the one fret and how would I get the slight ding out. Thanks and very well done video. Philip
tape off the fretboard and use some 180 or 240 sand paper to sand that fret and all the ones after it (to make sure the material removed is even, to not dig a hole on this single fret). I use my finger and rub the sandpaper over the fret, careful to go only perpendicular to the strings. Then once all the lines match, move up to 320 grit, then 3m scotchbrite, the maroon kind lasts long and works good. Then Polish it after that and it should look perfect.
@@mackk123 Thanks for the info. I will get those grit sandpapers and give it a try. It is amazing how the plain G string will catch on a groove so small you can barely even see it...It is more of a nuisance then anything, but still annoying when your stretch the string on that fret. Thanks. Phil NYC Area
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I appreciate the video. However I would definitely have to agree with what others have said about using a short radius block for leveling frets, it's really not a good idea since the goal should be to remove as little material as possible, you need something that spans most of the board. Also using a beam is preferred to follow the string path for more precision.
One other thing I'd like to recommend is to prop the body up at the neck joint also, it's important to be aware that the truss rod won't do anything for the last few frets by the neck joint, so regardless of how straight you get the neck before leveling, you will either take off too much or too little(depending on how the guitars neck and truss rod reacts) of those last frets which could cause problems with action when the neck is under tension from the strings. I hope that makes sense?
The blanket/towel is a good idea though as it will even out any pressure over the whole neck, as opposed to using something solid that would need to be clamped over the entire neck to keep it completely rigid. that's something I actually never thought about until I saw this!
Greetings, may I ask why you think this removes more material than a flat beam ? Can you explain in detail? Have you ever tried this method? Just curious. Greetings from Scotland 🏴
the radius one is obviously better, the beam one will leave facets, it won't follow the radius exactly, whether you use the beam or the short radius one doesn't have an effect on how much you take off the fret, duh
@@curtrod Exactly, I don't get why a flat beam would be preferable over a radius one, with maybe the preference for an aluminum machined one over a wooden one, as wood can and will definitely move and not be as accurate. But other than that, I'd love the OP explain us why a FLAT beam would be better a better use on RADIUSED frets, which are basically parts of a circle : a 12 inches radius (305mm for my European people) is the half of a diameter of 24 inches (610mm) .With that in mind people can easily understand the concept of the radius of a neck, and that the flatter the radius, the bigger the circle is.
So I'd really appreciate an explanation on how can a flat anything be better on a circle anything, as far as precision is concerned ? Also, a medium/short radius block is actually preferable over a long one, because you often see frets that are all over the place height wise, as for once, I would recommend you (the OP) to watch the video that stewmac recently made in this regard , as it is very true and interesting.
Thank you, I've watched a TON of videos on this subject (because I will be doing this myself soon) and this one had all the good tips I've heard from other videos, but was quick and to the point, which I appreciate 👍
And it's actually showing how to do it while it's actually attached to the guitar
Great video fellow Mainer, I have seen a lot of videos describing these tactics but I have found yours to be the most informative. Going to save this to my Technical youtube section for sure.
Whenever I'm done working on frets, change strings or even just cleaning frets I use a jewelry/silver polishing cloths. They sell them in department stores around the jewelry/watch sections. You use the reusable ones not the disposable.
They're usually 2 cloths stitched together on the top; a white one and colored one. The white has the dry treatment that you use that first, I usually use some hot breath on the fret (like you might do with eyeglasses). It'll polish it to a shine, then the colored cloth is just a cloth that you use buff it.
It does the best job, I find it FAR better than 0000 steel wool. When you're done your frets will feel like glass when you bend a string. They're like $8 and should last you literally hundreds and hundreds of uses.
One other thing to try instead of steel wool are the Arm & Hammer Magic Eraser sponges. I'll use them on frets and hardwear. I actually started using it with an Eric Johnson Strat when I first got it. The Lacquer on the neck could get sticky sitting hot weather, usually for the first year or two and then it's fine. A lot of people will use steel wool to rough it up so it's not sticky, but I find its just TOO course. Those Magic Eraser though are perfect; just 2 or 3 light passes and it's done. It's a VERY fine abrasive (that's why they work so well for cleaning) that will just scuff the very top layer.
Steel wool take too much off, and some of it inevitably gets rubbed back into the neck. The result of the sponge looks and feels just like it's a satin finish instead of gloss.
Browsing all of you, friends luthiers, I can see your way to level frets and so on, however it's interesting and I've to make synthesis. My own practice is to use a leveling beam , a 3 corners file to crown, different sand papers and very important, a marker, avoiding to file to much matter of the frets.
This is the old school way, the way countless luthiers apprentices have learned, and it will get the job done : that being said, nowadays there are easier tools to use, not necessarily for the pros, but for the DIY people. An aluminum cnc machined radius block and a concave crowning file are infinitely easier to use for beginners and even advanced DIYers. Then different grits sand papers and/or gums , but one tool that is mandatory to me would be the fret rocker to constantly check the frets all over the neck. I would say that a fret rocker is even more important than a sharpie/marker, as I know a lot of pros who only use their eyes, VERY good lighting along with a fret rocker, without having to mark the frets. But I would not recommend this for beginners, for them I'd definitely use a sharpie as it is an inexpensive and accurate way to see lower and high frets
@@SociopatheAssume , I own some Guran stuff too! 😉
But why am I using old school manner, maybe some natural preference.
I am noticing the com 4 years ago!!!! 🙄But I still use old manner...
@@brunolevasseur Nothing wrong going the old school way, it proved it's efficiency. I was more speaking for beginners and/or DIYers ;)
@@SociopatheAssume I agree! 😊
The old school way was taught by Highline Guitars on TH-cam, excellent luthier.
Thanks for the video - a few things for consideration - 1) I use a full length leveling beam, and have found more consistent results. No need to worry about a rocker when you do a full length level. 2) Good idea to consider creating a fall off on the last few frets, where you have no impact with truss rod adjustment. The largest string vibration radius happens further down the neck and the "heel" can be a problem area if you desire little relief and low action. 3) MOST importantly - do no level the neck only off the wood - it is not always "true". The neck must be level before you proceed with a leveling block - if you find on initial touch that a "group" of frets that are together are contacted the neck is likely not straight. I find assuring the neck is level after some rest time if the relief needed significant adjustment, the first lite touch with a full leveling block tells the whole story..if you have the neck true, if a full fret level is really required, etc. There are a number of key items to consider in one's approach, above are a few of them. (:~>
except you never explain your magical way to check if the neck is straight
Enjoyed this vid 👍 greetings from Scotland 🏴
I got a 30'' sanding block 9,5. It's just nice to be sure about how level the frets are
You do wrong. Every professional luthier will tell you not to use radius block. That's not all. Not to use even to short fret levelling beam. You should use at least 16inch levelling beam. If to short you will take of more material in the middle area then at the ends of your fretboard. Radius blocks are used for fretboard levelling once all frets are removed of the fretboard.
The problem with this is if you have a few bad areas (especially if it's your first 10 times to refret) You will lower all the frets if you use the big beam at the start of leveling... to get those high areas level. Because the big beams rocks over that high area it will create low and high spots all over until that fret gets close to level. It chews off a ton of metal needlessly.
Then you create other problems....frets that are too low. This is one of the most common problems for newby's. No reason to if you get those bad areas close with a small leveler before you go to the big beam
You can use a 1" x 1" x 6" piece of ebony or rosewood that's been leveled. (search rosewood online) Only use the small beam on the exact area where the rocker clicks....not the whole fret. This saves a lot of height on your frets....
@@cugir321 That makes sense, good advice. After targeting the location where you're getting rocking, would you then hit the whole board with a large leveling beam?
@@electropentatonic Yep...shouldn't take near as much to level the whole board. You don't have to get the targeted area perfect.....get it close then use the long leveling beam on the whole neck.
@@cugir321 have you ever leveled a Gibson with fret nibs? How do you go about doing that?
Remember always to cover the pickups first! Otherwise when you level down the frets, metal material will be attracted to the pick-up coils
Using a radius block to level frets can create uneven/unleveled frets on the edge's (under the "E" strings")......Folks don't take my word for it......rocker them after you use a radius block.
Rocker your frets first before doing your final level. Highlight the frets that are very bad. It's not unusual to have a few frets that are very unlevel. (especially with a refret) Deal with those frets first using a short sanding bar in the local area only. When they're close go to the long beam and level.
When you're done, capo each fret and test for buzzes. It's not a really good level unless you can capo to at least the 7th fret without buzzes. Being able to capo is the difference between an amateur and a pro.
Great instructions, thanks. Do you have any recommendations for a specific short sanding bar? Do you recommend to first start levelling the frets with a beam instead of a radius block?
@@renandias7926
I use a short piece of 1" x 1" x 6 " piece of leveled rose wood to level specific areas.
I leveled it on my big beam. It was about 10 bucks on a speciality wood site online. I use the top of it from time to time to get a little rosewood to fill in chips when refretting. You can get ebony ones too....may be a little harder wood. They are short and only sand under one string. This is important....do this first and it will save the height of your frets overall. No reason to use the beam on the whole neck at the beginning of the level if there's only a few really bad places. If you level those bad spots then when you use the big beam on all the frets the level will go very quick and you won't take a lot of metal off and get all the frets too low. This is the biggest problem with newby's...getting all the frets too low.
Actually I don't level any more with a radius block unless the outside edges are high....and that is rare....just a quick touch up. Just stick to the beam. You don't need to use the radius block on the frets.....just the fingerboard. I use a beam for the main level....it's a long one...a couple feet long.
Use a rocker before you start leveling to find the worse high spots. Don't mark the whole fret....just the part the rocks. That's all you want to go over with the small leveler. Once all the worse areas are close (does not have to be perfect....) then use the big beam.
In the end.....the real secret is learning to install the frets so they're all seated properly.....you'll still have to deal with areas that are unlevel but not much. The slot size and depth, the wire size, the radius of the wire, and how you seat them is all part of the game. It really is a science. Most people on youtube don't tell you this....they just want clicks. Do a cheap pawn shot guitar first. When you get good.....you'll be able to make them play better then your 3000.00 guitar. I have a 50.00 chinese ebay strat type guitar they sell at christmas each year. It's amazing. Cost me about 50.00 to upgrade a few things. Had some grover tuners sitting around that I put on it. Also a Peavey rockmaster that's my favorite guitar (not the marvel types...plain one)....added a neck pickup too and it became a monster. The key is they play like a million bucks.
Thank you very much, Su Freidman. Your comments on frets that are badly seated are what most players and luthiers take for granted. A badly seated fret will move a lot more with the wood reacting to temperature changes, and the levelling will never be perfect for more than a few weeks. Thanks for your detailed advices on how to approach fret levelling, gave me more confidence to start the journey.
@@renandias7926 Not if you glue them in....I glue them all.....just try to get them seated well.....you can get away with a few that are not perfect but must be close.
Greetings Su, can you please explain in detail how a radius block can create uneven or unlevelled frets on edges under the e strings ? Is it 1. Because the fret radius is actually larger than the fingerboard radius by 1mm or so and so using a radius block with the same radius of the fretboard will make the e strings a bit lower ? 2. Because of accidental side to side tilting of the block when running up and down the length of the fingerboard which would mess up the radius a little ? 3. Because when the block runs up the frets it might get raised on one side by a high fret on one side and cut into the opposite side at a sharper angle? Thanks
I've watched probably 50 similar videos and am surprised to see how many people are unable to see the problems with their methods. I'm having fun with my first re-fret without buying cauls, clamps, supports, fret-benders, etc.
www.amazon.com/fret-leveling-beam/s?k=fret+leveling+beam And you didn't notice how wrong this one is? You got poor attention span then bud. A re-fret is not the same as fret leveling. One merely mowing your lawn the other is ripping out the old sod and transplant entirely new sod ,and then eventually also mowing it before using it. You only put replace the frets when you've had so many fret leveling that there is not enough material left on the frets to get the perfectly flat . It's like wearing your brake out to the pads. What he does in this video is going to cost him money. He obviously is confident enough in his technique to make a video which means he's done it more than once which is sad, because if he'd only done a little reading or found the right videos he would know he's doing it wrong, taking off way too much material with that stupid short curved leveling beam. It's not even a beam it's a fucking sanding block. Google leveling beam , you know what you'll find .giant ass long blocks of steel , i.e. BEAMS. that you stick sandpaper to. www.amazon.com/fret-leveling-beam/s?k=fret+leveling+beam
@@stevenutter3614 What??? My entire remark was referring to how people are unable to see their mistakes!!! You're going off like a bomb. Why are you insulting my attention span? You got weird problems.
I'm late to the party, but this is a good video, excellent job
Some of these comments lol. My radius block is 6 ft long.....whole project is done with 1/3 pass. Steel wool the frets and put some snake oil on the nut and it's the best she's ever played.
Hi Mark, Thanks for the video, I failed my leveling process and ruined my refrets. The problem is that, with frets rocker, some spot seems okay at moment then starting rock at a second. Then that's when everything starts to go down. Because when I remove the high spot, then you will find out the you ruined the frets you previously level. Really stressful, then you end up taking down too much material till it's not useful 😕
You using 80 grit paper or what? This is a very delicate process, removing very minimal fret material. If you're frets were that far our of whack your neck is toast or you didn't straighten it to begin with.
Fab stuff. Thank you.
Bro i thought using radius block is not good for frets. But its youre choice tho, i also think it works for perfectly for you
it's the correct way
Fantastic video. I have one question. What grit did you use on the sanding block?
Dan from guns & guitars had a suggestion which I tried and really like the theory and the results. Below the 12th fret he takes off a little more material off every fret. Remove just a little extra material, just a few strokes with the stone, get those frets down a bit.
Its call fall away or fall offI think
Actually, (above the 12th) not below.
up the neck, is towards the body. Down the neck, is towards the headstock.
Common misconception.
It seems the radius block would be the tool to use, but so many say a long straight flat sanding beam is what to use.
Would you do a pro/con on this?
My son and I tinker with guitars for personal workable instruments & hobby. I/we will use this info, we want to do best to eliminate problems & shorten time.
Thank you
(hope my comment is visible most are hidden from view not sure why)
Just taking a guess, I believe the radius block may be when you're working on the raw fretboard with no frets, If you use them on the fret, you're giving them a curve which is wrong. You want the frets to be Straight/level. What gives straight frets a round look is the crowning and polishing
@@inky1726 that’s what I’m hearing. Thank you for the information friend.
The proof is in the pudding eh? People either repeat what they have heard or they speak from objective experience (whether small or large)
There seem to be good reasons why this is a bad idea … but I have a feeling these reasons may not staff up to the test . I guess it’s best to try it and see.
Im starting to wonder if some of the time the block is elevated on the higher frets as you run up and down the fretboard and taking then down first or he majority of them.
Pretty much anything works. There's a myth that if you use a radius block that the frets are flatter than the radius of the board. This is true, but it's an incredibly microscopic difference. Radius blocks are great for maintaining radius when you have to do an extensive leveling job, but if you just have to level one or two frets, it's overkill
@@DrDizzleFrizzle I appreciate that. Thank you Dr-🤘🏼
Great video! Thank you!
you just shortened the lifespan of that neck by removing too much of fret height. Wrong sanding block, risky crowning.
Thanks! The 'ol road dog way of guitar repair;done the same thing,pillow and all. Hilariously cool and a good tutorial, the short radius sanding block,not.
there is not enough support under the neck for this job! That thing is wiggling all over the place.Do not follow any of these directions!
Why didn’t you put a board into the blanket, then put the guitar neck on top, then it won’t bow and it won’t scratch the neck and you will be guaranteed that the neck won’t bow. Just a thought.
What Grit size(s) did you use for the fret leveling?
this is an off brand les paul that doesn't have binding over the frets. how is this video any different than any normal fret leveling?
Never use a radius block to level. You create a tube like radius and that's not what you want.
Hi. I don’t understand your comment. The radius of the block will likely be the same radius as the fretboard . Ok the frets will have a slightly bigger radius of the fretboard because of the fret height so add on 1mm or so which won’t make much difference. Thanks
Thats BS man. Instead you should say never to use flat beams for leveling, because it creates flat crates on the radius.
nope
What grit did you use on the sanding block
Appreciated
Also don’t use a radius block...
don't listen to or play metal either
Radius block is better used for leveling the fret board , You need a leveling beam for the frets. Also you should remove the nut or at least tape it off.
But what ever works for you on your personal guitars.
Can you explain why is it better to use a leveling beam?
@@UltimateEngineering nobody can explain this myth because it's not true
nobody can explain this myth because it's not true
Guys on TH-cam videos they don't really know what they're talking about they're doing this to make money and people wind up screwing up their instruments your best bet is to try and find professionals to give you explanations not people like this
This guy is awful. By far the WORST fret work I've ever seen on TH-cam. He's going to cause a LOT of expensive repairs for people when they ruin their frets and have to pay for a refret
Hi my friend .I am curious …If it’s the radius block you don’t like, could you explain in detail what the problems are and why they happen. And also if you have tried this method yourself. Greetings from Scotland 🏴
this guy's video happens to be fine
@@ourclarioncall this guy is just too scared to work on his own guitar
What grit u using
true grit
What the hell is on the peghead between the the 2 E tuner posts?
Lol, looks like some funky string trees. Probably for all the whammy bar usage.
i can't take people serious when they use a string butler...
I have very fine straight ding/groove in my 9th fret (almost not visible) and when I stretch the G string it will hang up very slightly in the groove (it catches on the very fine groove). Again, this is a very very fine groove (like a string pressed hard into the fret as it runs in the same direction as the string). I could not even see it without magnifying reading glasses. Can I just fix the one fret and how would I get the slight ding out. Thanks and very well done video.
Philip
tape off the fretboard and use some 180 or 240 sand paper to sand that fret and all the ones after it (to make sure the material removed is even, to not dig a hole on this single fret). I use my finger and rub the sandpaper over the fret, careful to go only perpendicular to the strings. Then once all the lines match, move up to 320 grit, then 3m scotchbrite, the maroon kind lasts long and works good. Then Polish it after that and it should look perfect.
@@mackk123 Thanks for the info. I will get those grit sandpapers and give it a try. It is amazing how the plain G string will catch on a groove so small you can barely even see it...It is more of a nuisance then anything, but still annoying when your stretch the string on that fret. Thanks.
Phil
NYC Area
The word is across not acrost