I love your videos. They allowed me to completely change the front discs and pads, and have disassembled the rear in anticipation of fitting the new discs and pads. However, one criticism; copper grease should never be used on critical parts that have specific torque settings, especially if the threads appear clean in the first place. Copper grease will cause you to overtorque, which could lead to unforeseen consequences. The hub axle is clean and so the 210Nm needed to torque it, along with a new nut, is enough - no copper slip or threadlocker needed. If reusing the mounting bracket and caliper bolts then threadlocker shoud be used as these parts experience vibration and heat - an antiseize compound such as copper grease is in fact the opposite of what you need - though ideally these bolts should be replaced with new ones as they are critical components.
Great video , you have done a really good job, but please add a note that you need to turn the piston caliper in order to push the piston in! I followed all your instruction today very usefull , but I got stucked once I had to push the piston in , I only found out after several research in google that I had to push and twist the piston at the same time..I hope that this can help out. Thank you!
So we meet again😂 peugeot keeps on getting little pains. Just a little extra info for ordering parts. Even when checking VIN it is still not clear what to order. To get the right parts for rear brake discs and pads: Remove the rear wheel and cap in the center Measure the axle diameter. Should be 25 mm or 30 mm. Look at the brake caliper if the bosch logo or Lucas logo is on it. Each use different pads. When you know 25 or 30 and lucas or Bosch you can order. Also do yourself a favor and order discs that have the magnetic abs and bearing already fitted, it will make the repair a lot easier, but bit more expensive. Hope this helps someone to get the right part the first time of ordering. As always I really like your videos!!
Matiss Vrublevskis ABS fault and disabled while braking. Please don’t cheap out on the magnetic ring, You don’t need ABS until you really really need it.
Do you know you have to turn the piston in the calliper when you pushing it in? There are special tools that can do this. That is why the piston has such grooves in it. You may damage your brakes not doing it.
thank you for the tutorial Is it possible to remove the abs ring and reinstall it on the new braking sic without damaging it? and also, how would the bearing be installed inside the disc?
شــُـكـراً لـــــــــككك ؛ , Thank you ’ However I advice you’ you must alywas use breaker bar to break loose any harden bolt or nut such like the torx bolts holding the caliper support bracket to the wheel , hub rather than the socket ratchet to prevent damaging the ratchet regards .
Hi, thank you for the excellent tutorial and details in this video and in all your videos. I have a Peugeot 307 SW (2004) is it the same? and if not, what is the difference? Thank you and wish you all the luck with your channel.
you say clean abs sensor ring but not fitted on the rear ?? you should not mix copper grease with lithium based grease that should be used on wheel bearings
to avoid damaging the screw heads when loosening, use a wire brush to remove dirt and rust then WD40 to loosen the screws. it's an insurance to avoid problems and it takes 30 seconds !!!
PLEASE /// PLEASE /// PLEASE "" Never forget ’ Very Big Note or Advice ; Only at the rear brakes because of hand PB or electrical ( electronic ) Parking Brake ( PB ) you must push and twist the piston at the same time using special twisting tools or long needle pliers always you must to turn the piston in the caliper when you pushing it in or you may damage your brakes not doing it .
Is it easy to operate the key? Perhaps you are missing some grease? If so you can simply spray some into the lock (through the key hole). If not then it most likely is broken cable. You would need to take the central lock on the drivers door apart and check connectivity with multimeter. This should show which cable is broken. Cheers :)
Please do not follow this guy's instructions and use copper grease. There is a wheelbearing where its been applied, it will destroy the bearing as copper grease is abrasive. Copper grease should never be applied to any part of a braking system for several reasons, it's abrasive, attracts dirt, melts at low temperature (the grease not the copper itself), causes corrosion with alloys, eats rubber, and on nuts and bolts will change toque required to tighten.
@@asdifsodkfs No grease on the axle shaft, or a very light coat of basic axle grease Silicone or Synthetic brake grease on slide pins On axle/brake threads no grease should be used at all but good practice is to add threadlock such as blue loctite No grease on the Pads No grease on the caliper bracket No grease on Brake hardware or replace (More expensive pads will come with replacements as standard) Make sure you wire brush and clean the caliper bracket and hardware where the pads slide, check the pad and pins slide freely. If your brakes still squeel after a few km's it's usually vibration due to poor fitment of pads, to solve this buy different pads, replace hardware or apply a light coating of grease (Molybdenum grease, Plastilube are the most common, ceramic grease, graphite grease, teflon grease or if desperate copper grease) To the where the pad slides on the caliper bracket, hardware, back of the pad and ears of the pad. A independent garage will do this to avoid return customers complaining about brake noise.
@@user-zt4ry9hm9u Big like! I really appreciate the time you spent to answer. I need to change the front and rear brake discs and all the brake pads as well. Not to mention that I will rebuild all the brake calipers. I'm a bit stuck on what type of greases should I use. For the internal components of the brake caliper (cylinder, rubber seals, etc.), I will use the red grease provided in the repair kit. For the guide pins, again I will use the transparent grease provided in the repair kit. I suppose that it's silicone grease which should not attack the rubber boots of the guide pins. For the screws securing the caliper mounting bracket, I will use Loctite Blue 243 and also for the guide pins screws. For the brake pads slots of the caliper, the metal hardware supporting the brake pads and the "ears" of the brake pads, I will use Liqui Moly Anti-Squeal paste. This same paste I will use it on the front wheel hubs for the contact part with the brake discs to prevent noises, seizing and rusting. Sounds good? And lastly, I think that I should use some grease (film-like) on the rear axle stub before mounting the brake discs. These are all rotating metal parts in contact and high temperatures are in that area and I believe that lubrication should be applied. Also a bit on the wheel nut facing the bearing of the brake disc. What do you think about Liqui Moly LM 48? Or Liqui Moly LM 47?
@@asdifsodkfs Sounds fine, perhaps overthinking things, I think your trying to find things to repair that are perhaps not necessary :) Somehow I don't believe your car is a Peugeot 307, if it needed brakes and calipers all round I'd scrap it, not worth fixing, if it got that bad there's probably other problems too. Are you sure you really need to replace all 4 calipers?, nobody bothers rebuilding calipers unless parts are unavailable/really expensive. Measure your disc thickness, you can normally change your pads 2 times before your close to minimum thickness (spec on new disc website). Rear discs can last 2-3 times longer then your front discs as they do so little work. Many garages say you need new pads and discs without even looking, it's quick easy work and people usually don't care or know better. For the front hub before mounting the disc I'd wire brush and clean it, leave it alone or apply a very thin layer of molybdenum ideally or copper grease if you live in harsh conditions. Using the brake grease probably won't do any harm. Again for the axle nut just use threadlock or leave it alone, it's usually peened over and has a cotter pin thru it. Honestly save yourself some money you don't have to use threadlock tho it's nice to have, if you did it wrong it won't save you but for a garage its just extra coverage, some use it some don't.
I love your videos. They allowed me to completely change the front discs and pads, and have disassembled the rear in anticipation of fitting the new discs and pads. However, one criticism; copper grease should never be used on critical parts that have specific torque settings, especially if the threads appear clean in the first place. Copper grease will cause you to overtorque, which could lead to unforeseen consequences. The hub axle is clean and so the 210Nm needed to torque it, along with a new nut, is enough - no copper slip or threadlocker needed. If reusing the mounting bracket and caliper bolts then threadlocker shoud be used as these parts experience vibration and heat - an antiseize compound such as copper grease is in fact the opposite of what you need - though ideally these bolts should be replaced with new ones as they are critical components.
I finally found the required torque value for the rear hub nut specified in the Haynes manual: 210 Nm / 155 lbf ft.
Great video , you have done a really good job, but please add a note that you need to turn the piston caliper in order to push the piston in! I followed all your instruction today very usefull , but I got stucked once I had to push the piston in , I only found out after several research in google that I had to push and twist the piston at the same time..I hope that this can help out. Thank you!
So we meet again😂 peugeot keeps on getting little pains.
Just a little extra info for ordering parts. Even when checking VIN it is still not clear what to order. To get the right parts for rear brake discs and pads:
Remove the rear wheel and cap in the center
Measure the axle diameter. Should be 25 mm or 30 mm.
Look at the brake caliper if the bosch logo or Lucas logo is on it. Each use different pads. When you know 25 or 30 and lucas or Bosch you can order.
Also do yourself a favor and order discs that have the magnetic abs and bearing already fitted, it will make the repair a lot easier, but bit more expensive.
Hope this helps someone to get the right part the first time of ordering.
As always I really like your videos!!
I know this may be too late, but if i order the discs without the magnectic abs integrated what problems or difficulties am i gonna come across?
Matiss Vrublevskis ABS fault and disabled while braking. Please don’t cheap out on the magnetic ring, You don’t need ABS until you really really need it.
Very clear and step by step guide Welldone great job
Do you know you have to turn the piston in the calliper when you pushing it in? There are special tools that can do this. That is why the piston has such grooves in it. You may damage your brakes not doing it.
Excellent tutorial and very well explained.
thank you for the tutorial
Is it possible to remove the abs ring and reinstall it on the new braking sic without damaging it?
and also, how would the bearing be installed inside the disc?
شــُـكـراً
لـــــــــككك ؛
, Thank you ’
However I advice you’
you must alywas use breaker bar
to break loose any harden bolt or nut
such like the torx bolts holding the
caliper support bracket to the wheel
, hub rather than the socket ratchet
to prevent damaging the ratchet
regards .
32 mm or 36mm key is in citroen c4 2006??
Hi, thank you for the excellent tutorial and details in this video and in all your videos. I have a Peugeot 307 SW (2004) is it the same? and if not, what is the difference? Thank you and wish you all the luck with your channel.
Rear hub nut is 210nm
you say clean abs sensor ring but not fitted on the rear ?? you should not mix copper grease with lithium based grease that should be used on wheel bearings
Hi Paul,
I have problems undarstanding the question. Can you please try again?
Thanks for the tip with lithium based grease.
Cheers
Don't use a torque wrench to loosen the bolts. That can damage your torque wrench!
to avoid damaging the screw heads when loosening, use a wire brush to remove dirt and rust then WD40 to loosen the screws. it's an insurance to avoid problems and it takes 30 seconds !!!
PLEASE /// PLEASE /// PLEASE ""
Never forget ’ Very Big Note or Advice ;
Only at the rear brakes because of hand PB or
electrical ( electronic ) Parking Brake ( PB )
you must push and twist the piston at the same time
using special twisting tools or long needle pliers
always you must to turn the piston in the caliper
when you pushing it in or you may
damage your brakes not doing it .
You forgot to mention that once fitted you need to pump the breaks to get the caliper piston set.
Unfortunately the center nut is 36mm.😭😭😭
х.. поймешь чего говорит но я в принципе все понял,лайк чужеземцу!
Это польский парень но говорит по английскому. 🇵🇱🇪🇺🇺🇲🇷🇺
I have problem in a center lock of driver door
Hi Ahm Ed,
What's the problem?
All doors are locking and opening by remote control except the driver door must use the key to open and lock it
Is it easy to operate the key? Perhaps you are missing some grease? If so you can simply spray some into the lock (through the key hole).
If not then it most likely is broken cable. You would need to take the central lock on the drivers door apart and check connectivity with multimeter.
This should show which cable is broken.
Cheers :)
your brake pads jsut fell out mine needed a bit of persuasion with a hammer
Please make a video explain all types of bulbs on headlights with the name of each bulb. I want to replace the halogen bulbs by one's leds.
Hi Jorge,
No problem, I will add that to the video list :)
Cheers
Thanks!! All your videos are so helpful, nice content.
Kiitos paljon
Its on the box of the new discs the nm torque of the nut 😁
Hi,
What torque did you use? Do you have the disc and the hub inseparable (like in my case) ?
Cheers
Yes i have the same like you and i turned them on 220nm grtz
Yes that should be ok (at least as per my practice).
Just as an interesting fact - the front retaining nut for the CV Joint has 325 Nm torque :)
I finally found the required torque value for the rear hub nut specified in the Haynes manual: 210 Nm / 155 lbf ft.
Please do not follow this guy's instructions and use copper grease.
There is a wheelbearing where its been applied, it will destroy the bearing as copper grease is abrasive.
Copper grease should never be applied to any part of a braking system for several reasons, it's abrasive, attracts dirt, melts at low temperature (the grease not the copper itself), causes corrosion with alloys, eats rubber, and on nuts and bolts will change toque required to tighten.
What paste do you recommend then?
@@asdifsodkfs No grease on the axle shaft, or a very light coat of basic axle grease
Silicone or Synthetic brake grease on slide pins
On axle/brake threads no grease should be used at all but good practice is to add threadlock such as blue loctite
No grease on the Pads
No grease on the caliper bracket
No grease on Brake hardware or replace (More expensive pads will come with replacements as standard)
Make sure you wire brush and clean the caliper bracket and hardware where the pads slide, check the pad and pins slide freely.
If your brakes still squeel after a few km's it's usually vibration due to poor fitment of pads, to solve this buy different pads, replace hardware or apply a light coating of grease
(Molybdenum grease, Plastilube are the most common, ceramic grease, graphite grease, teflon grease or if desperate copper grease)
To the where the pad slides on the caliper bracket, hardware, back of the pad and ears of the pad.
A independent garage will do this to avoid return customers complaining about brake noise.
@@user-zt4ry9hm9u Big like! I really appreciate the time you spent to answer. I need to change the front and rear brake discs and all the brake pads as well. Not to mention that I will rebuild all the brake calipers. I'm a bit stuck on what type of greases should I use.
For the internal components of the brake caliper (cylinder, rubber seals, etc.), I will use the red grease provided in the repair kit.
For the guide pins, again I will use the transparent grease provided in the repair kit. I suppose that it's silicone grease which should not attack the rubber boots of the guide pins.
For the screws securing the caliper mounting bracket, I will use Loctite Blue 243 and also for the guide pins screws.
For the brake pads slots of the caliper, the metal hardware supporting the brake pads and the "ears" of the brake pads, I will use Liqui Moly Anti-Squeal paste. This same paste I will use it on the front wheel hubs for the contact part with the brake discs to prevent noises, seizing and rusting. Sounds good?
And lastly, I think that I should use some grease (film-like) on the rear axle stub before mounting the brake discs. These are all rotating metal parts in contact and high temperatures are in that area and I believe that lubrication should be applied. Also a bit on the wheel nut facing the bearing of the brake disc. What do you think about Liqui Moly LM 48? Or Liqui Moly LM 47?
@@asdifsodkfs Sounds fine, perhaps overthinking things, I think your trying to find things to repair that are perhaps not necessary :)
Somehow I don't believe your car is a Peugeot 307, if it needed brakes and calipers all round I'd scrap it, not worth fixing, if it got that bad there's probably other problems too.
Are you sure you really need to replace all 4 calipers?, nobody bothers rebuilding calipers unless parts are unavailable/really expensive.
Measure your disc thickness, you can normally change your pads 2 times before your close to minimum thickness (spec on new disc website). Rear discs can last 2-3 times longer then your front discs as they do so little work. Many garages say you need new pads and discs without even looking, it's quick easy work and people usually don't care or know better.
For the front hub before mounting the disc I'd wire brush and clean it, leave it alone or apply a very thin layer of molybdenum ideally or copper grease if you live in harsh conditions. Using the brake grease probably won't do any harm.
Again for the axle nut just use threadlock or leave it alone, it's usually peened over and has a cotter pin thru it.
Honestly save yourself some money you don't have to use threadlock tho it's nice to have, if you did it wrong it won't save you but for a garage its just extra coverage, some use it some don't.
I guess you even brush your teeth with copper paste.....