Awesome animation of how releveling of a ring foundation is undertaken/completed. We undertake a similar method here in Auckland, New Zealand, however use a pressurized cement grout to "in fill" any gaps created by the lifting of the footing. We also cut and insert jacks directly beneath the footings and support and manually lift the mid floor bearers too ( if applicable ). Great video guys - Access Foundations and Houselifting
Shear bolts, pins or rods are not dependent on what they are but what the shear load is they can support before failure. A 20t sheer pin sheers at exactly the same load as a 20t sheer bolt. Why? Because that's what their engineered to do. One isn't Superior over the other for load and only becomes relevant for application design for installation for maintenance. Bolts are generally preferred in applications where it is considered a permanent install and you would not be removing it under normal applications where as something like a drill head, 4 trailer tongue, it would make more sense to use a pin. Hope that makes sense. Me? I'm less worried about them using a shear pin or bolt then I am about them not having a fixed redundancy, like a steel corbell afixed to the bracket that would carry the actual load over the 6-8 anchor bolts. Remember, anytime you drill into concrete, whether you want to or not you are introducing micro cracks. The more of these, holes that are drilled closer together are going to create a weaker points in the areas around it. Likewise, concrete is designed for compression loads. The particular design that is shown here, would have shear forces on the footer. Concrete does not have great shear force and does not work well under tension. A corbell or even lets say a a 4" structural angle to catch the lip of the footer and hold it under compression during the process would be a far superior design. Minimizing both forces would make more sense. Where are those anchor bolts into the bracket are only there as a stabalized position point. Likewise I would feel better if rather than using shear pins at all, there was a top cap that was designed into the brackets that worked on compression. You get it into the final position, you put your shear bolts in. The top of the post is cut. Then the bracket, weill have a keyway where a rated piece of steel was inserted and then welded permanently to the bracket. That way there would be at least three points of redundancy before failure. *Engineers like redundancies. Engineers like static load. Engineers like compression.... No engineers like shear loads 🤣.
What happens if the shear screws are removed on the pier? Trying to figure out how to reconnct the ram. I have a single corner that had sunk almost 2 inches and need to drive the pier further down but the screws are rusted in.. since the pier has sunk would that mean more pressure is being held back with those screws or less??
I realize this works but I’m in clay and have tried digging down at least 10’ with a modified post hole digger hoping to hit something solid and found nothing but more clay. I couldn’t trust a round pipe using just friction and a little foot on the end to hold things up for the long run. Plus the rust that’ll be bound to happen.
My company uses a different form of these push piers but we are all clay over here. You drive until the post will not drive anymore and is lifting the structure, then you pressure test and add more pressure to make sure what you are on is solid and will hold the house. Usually needs up hitting bedrock or a big boulder
@owencanas2895 does only doing one side adversely effect the other sides that don't have as much support? I have to do this on one side of my home and I have some cracking on the opposite side of where the piers are going to be placed and I'm afraid it'll put more pressure on that side
I’m surprised this would work as well, but much of Venice’s buildings are built on friction piers (their rate of sinking is very slow). Think about how hard it is to pull a wooden stake from the ground hammered in just a foot. Now multiple by hundreds or thousands of times with a deeply driven pier.
Awesome animation of how releveling of a ring foundation is undertaken/completed. We undertake a similar method here in Auckland, New Zealand, however use a pressurized cement grout to "in fill" any gaps created by the lifting of the footing. We also cut and insert jacks directly beneath the footings and support and manually lift the mid floor bearers too ( if applicable ). Great video guys - Access Foundations and Houselifting
So the whole weight they lifted depends in those 3 bolts. 😢
The bracket totally sucks and should be the type that partially goes underneath the footing.
Agreed.
Using bolts for shear loads like that seems unusual. I only use pins for shear loads because they are substantially stronger.
Shear bolts, pins or rods are not dependent on what they are but what the shear load is they can support before failure. A 20t sheer pin sheers at exactly the same load as a 20t sheer bolt. Why? Because that's what their engineered to do. One isn't Superior over the other for load and only becomes relevant for application design for installation for maintenance. Bolts are generally preferred in applications where it is considered a permanent install and you would not be removing it under normal applications where as something like a drill head, 4 trailer tongue, it would make more sense to use a pin.
Hope that makes sense.
Me? I'm less worried about them using a shear pin or bolt then I am about them not having a fixed redundancy, like a steel corbell afixed to the bracket that would carry the actual load over the 6-8 anchor bolts. Remember, anytime you drill into concrete, whether you want to or not you are introducing micro cracks. The more of these, holes that are drilled closer together are going to create a weaker points in the areas around it. Likewise, concrete is designed for compression loads. The particular design that is shown here, would have shear forces on the footer. Concrete does not have great shear force and does not work well under tension. A corbell or even lets say a a 4" structural angle to catch the lip of the footer and hold it under compression during the process would be a far superior design. Minimizing both forces would make more sense. Where are those anchor bolts into the bracket are only there as a stabalized position point. Likewise I would feel better if rather than using shear pins at all, there was a top cap that was designed into the brackets that worked on compression. You get it into the final position, you put your shear bolts in. The top of the post is cut. Then the bracket, weill have a keyway where a rated piece of steel was inserted and then welded permanently to the bracket. That way there would be at least three points of redundancy before failure. *Engineers like redundancies. Engineers like static load. Engineers like compression.... No engineers like shear loads 🤣.
Don' you risk further cracking of the foundation by only doing one at a time?
Yes.
What happens if the shear screws are removed on the pier? Trying to figure out how to reconnct the ram. I have a single corner that had sunk almost 2 inches and need to drive the pier further down but the screws are rusted in.. since the pier has sunk would that mean more pressure is being held back with those screws or less??
I realize this works but I’m in clay and have tried digging down at least 10’ with a modified post hole digger hoping to hit something solid and found nothing but more clay. I couldn’t trust a round pipe using just friction and a little foot on the end to hold things up for the long run. Plus the rust that’ll be bound to happen.
My company uses a different form of these push piers but we are all clay over here. You drive until the post will not drive anymore and is lifting the structure, then you pressure test and add more pressure to make sure what you are on is solid and will hold the house. Usually needs up hitting bedrock or a big boulder
@owencanas2895 does only doing one side adversely effect the other sides that don't have as much support? I have to do this on one side of my home and I have some cracking on the opposite side of where the piers are going to be placed and I'm afraid it'll put more pressure on that side
I’m surprised this would work as well, but much of Venice’s buildings are built on friction piers (their rate of sinking is very slow). Think about how hard it is to pull a wooden stake from the ground hammered in just a foot. Now multiple by hundreds or thousands of times with a deeply driven pier.
I'm assuming 4000 PSI is the desired reading
Well
😊
Of course all of this could be avoided if American foundations stopped using the minimum type of engineering for foundations /concrete .
Do you think the USA is unique in the affliction of foubdation issues on buildings?
@@patty109109 Actually, YES! In Colombia homes and all buildings are built to withstand earthquakes. The USA is a s-hole country.
You mean to say, this could be avoided if each home owner had to build theyre OWN damn house! Instead of relying on borrowing from other people.
Hi where can I get more information for your product?
Somewhere else. There is NO SEATING of the foundation with this system. It will fail.
This isn't good enough. The poles are way too small for a permanent solution.
You're wrong.
@@notahotshot you are wrong .