Great info about the streaks and toasting the pellets. I’ve had them before and thought it was a flow issue. I live in AZ, so wouldn’t have thought moisture was still an issue. Why a third mold? I don’t think I caught the reason on that one.
The product has a total of five different parts. I'm making the smaller parts on my AB-100 injection molding machine. The other three parts are too large for that machine. Hence the third mold.
Nice work John. What do you do to keep your pellets dry? Ceramic plates are a good dryer. Several in with the pellets could do it. Put the ceramic in the oven like you did the pellets without worry of melting. That last part you showed was very nice and smooth. Very nice.
John, what is the device you use on top to twist the melted plastic out of the sprue? I need one for my build. It looks like it would help to break off the plastic for a cleaner look. Do you have any information on where I could purchase one?
@@JohnSL John, I have a Morgan press, but it didn't come with that sprue twisting thing (bought the press used). Can you post some pics/dims of that part, I'd like to make one. Great videos, thanks for making them.
Very nice video Try using a food dehydrator for drying your material,you will have more control over temperature and run less risk of polymer degradation.
That's what I started with. But the maximum temperature of 70C wasn't enough. The recommendations I've found are to dry ABS at 100C for 2-4 hours. I ran the toaster oven at 200F, or about 93C, which worked much better.
I had similar results with a food dehydrator and PC/ABS. Dried it overnight and ran some parts the next day, still streaky. I'll have to get a toaster with good low-temperature control. I think some don't do well maintaining lower temperatures.
These are small runs for a customer that is working on getting sales. If sales pick up, I might want to convert them into semi-automatic or automatic molds.
The pins that locate the mold halves don't need to be that long. I use dowel pins like you, but I usually only have them protrude about 1/8" beyond where the chamfer ends. Still aligns just-fine but much easier to get the mold apart.
Great video! I wish I had a small mold press like that in my shop. Could you cut a piece of round stock as a spacer for setting the press height? Just set it on top of the sprue bushing and move the mold up until it makes contact with the injection nozzle. Just something to save a little time. Also I wonder if you could use these alignment pin/bushings from mcmaster instead of dowels so you don't have to pry apart the mold and you can just pull it apart while keeping location good. www.mcmaster.com/taper-pins/mating-locating-pins-and-hole-liners/head-style~cone/
That's an interesting idea about a quick way to get close. I like it. I'll have to try that. Regarding the alignment pins, yes, I've been thinking about going that direction. For others, here is a link that shows both the pins and the liners: www.mcmaster.com/taper-pins/mating-locating-pins-and-hole-liners/
John, that is a great video, very instructive and easy to follow. Great tips thank you so much. Blessings to you and yours.
Hey John, what compressor and FRL do you use?
Nice looking parts John.
Thanks 👍
While watching your older videos, I saw you sold the upgraded Taig that I found your channel by... what CNC mill are you using instead now...?
I'm also curious. 👍
I now have a 2009 Haas OM-2A, which I cover in previous videos. I got this mill a little over a year ago.
@@JohnSL Thank you for the follow up! I really appreciate it. 🙂
Great info about the streaks and toasting the pellets. I’ve had them before and thought it was a flow issue. I live in AZ, so wouldn’t have thought moisture was still an issue.
Why a third mold? I don’t think I caught the reason on that one.
The product has a total of five different parts. I'm making the smaller parts on my AB-100 injection molding machine. The other three parts are too large for that machine. Hence the third mold.
Well done John
Thanks.
Great work !
Thanks!
Nice work John.
What do you do to keep your pellets dry?
Ceramic plates are a good dryer.
Several in with the pellets could do it. Put the ceramic in the oven like you did the pellets without worry of melting.
That last part you showed was very nice and smooth. Very nice.
I put them on a shallow pan in a toaster oven at 200F for several hours.
John, what is the device you use on top to twist the melted plastic out of the sprue? I need one for my build. It looks like it would help to break off the plastic for a cleaner look. Do you have any information on where I could purchase one?
This is a standard part that is most likely available from Morgan Industries, the maker of my machine: www.morganindustriesinc.com/
@@JohnSL thanks brother!
@@JohnSL John, I have a Morgan press, but it didn't come with that sprue twisting thing (bought the press used). Can you post some pics/dims of that part, I'd like to make one. Great videos, thanks for making them.
Very nice video
Try using a food dehydrator for drying your material,you will have more control over temperature and run less risk of polymer degradation.
That's what I started with. But the maximum temperature of 70C wasn't enough. The recommendations I've found are to dry ABS at 100C for 2-4 hours. I ran the toaster oven at 200F, or about 93C, which worked much better.
I had similar results with a food dehydrator and PC/ABS. Dried it overnight and ran some parts the next day, still streaky. I'll have to get a toaster with good low-temperature control. I think some don't do well maintaining lower temperatures.
Great ~
How you made the device which can break off the sprue ?
This is made by Morgan Industries and came with my machine: www.morganindustriesinc.com/
Well done!
Thanks.
Wonderful
Thank you
Interesting process. Are you doing prototyping parts, small runs or proof of concept? Thank you.
These are small runs for a customer that is working on getting sales. If sales pick up, I might want to convert them into semi-automatic or automatic molds.
Awesome!!
The pins that locate the mold halves don't need to be that long. I use dowel pins like you, but I usually only have them protrude about 1/8" beyond where the chamfer ends. Still aligns just-fine but much easier to get the mold apart.
I switched to much less stick out in more recent molds. Now I have the pin projecting about 0.15" and that works much better.
Great video! I wish I had a small mold press like that in my shop. Could you cut a piece of round stock as a spacer for setting the press height? Just set it on top of the sprue bushing and move the mold up until it makes contact with the injection nozzle. Just something to save a little time. Also I wonder if you could use these alignment pin/bushings from mcmaster instead of dowels so you don't have to pry apart the mold and you can just pull it apart while keeping location good. www.mcmaster.com/taper-pins/mating-locating-pins-and-hole-liners/head-style~cone/
That's an interesting idea about a quick way to get close. I like it. I'll have to try that. Regarding the alignment pins, yes, I've been thinking about going that direction. For others, here is a link that shows both the pins and the liners: www.mcmaster.com/taper-pins/mating-locating-pins-and-hole-liners/