NEVER TURN THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON A FLOYD ROSE WITH ANY STRING TENSION OR YOU WILL KILL THE KNIFE EDGES !!! Don't listen to this guy about that part!
Thanks so much. Just got online a brand new ESP and it arrives with action way too low - buzzing all over. This is the first video I saw and it's so helpful. Thank you.
I wish i had these videos when i was younger in the early 90s i had guitars with locking trems etc but had limited knowledge in how to set up correctly....excellent videos.
At 3:45 you can see where the studs have a groove cut into them (chrome plating gone) from turning the studs under tension. This is at least a Floyd Rose 1000 series, and I've seen the same happen with OFR and Schaller Lockmeister (great trems....the best). For those saying normal use wears the knife edges the same as turning the studs under tension.....WRONG. Turning the studs under tension literally cuts into the posts (grooves in studs = bad...bridge won't return to pitch) and takes off at least the chrome plating of the knife edges (just to start with). Try this experiment, take a sharp knife and push the blade against your skin but rock it side to side like a fulcrum. Then, take the same knife, push the blade against your skin but pull the handle so that it cuts. Now tell me....which method is going to slice your skin and draw blood? The PROPER way is to unlock the nut, loosen the strings via the tuning pegs, and remove the springs. Takes a little longer, kind of a pain, but will preserve your bridge.
You use the whammy bar to “lower the tension” on the strings, but what about the springs on the back of the guitar? They exert an even bigger force on the Floyd Rose now. Won’t that damage the edge of your Floyd Rose ?
NEVER TURN THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON A FLOYD ROSE WITH ANY STRING TENSION OR YOU WILL KILL THE KNIFE EDGES !!! Don't listen to this guy about that part!
That thin fine edge is considered a “wear” item in my book. Obviously not changing out often but depending on use, should be checked and replaced as needed. Don’t want wear on your guitar?, don’t play it.
@@accutronitisthe2nd95 kill? lol not on a good floyd bridge, this only happens on shitty tremolos. This myth started from all the cheap versions of the floyd where the knife edges are crap from the start. You think a little adjustment is going to kill cast metal? lol when you're using the bar, you're already rubbing on the knife edges just as much if not more
@@accutronitisthe2nd95 Or better yet, lock your trem and never use it, ever, it will stay sharp for eternity. You rub them knives just as much when playing, if you have an OFR/FR1000/Schaller/Gotoh/Edge (the original and Lo-Pro), you have nothing to worry about. If you have a licensed pot metal bridge, you're fucked either way. Stop spreading uneducated rumors, all you're doing is making some teenager go through the hassle of taking off springs and putting them back on for no rational reason.
Isn't it bad for the blades on the Floyd Rose to adjust the screws while they are under tension from the springs and strings? I've always heard to loosen the strings and then remove the springs before adjusting those screws. Reason being turning those screws while they're under tension will cause the blades to go dull-which will cause tuning issues. It's a real pain lowering the Acton then hooking everything back up, only to realize you have to do it again.
At 3:45 you can see where the studs have a groove cut into them (chrome plating gone) from turning the studs under tension. By slacking the strings with the bar, he's transferring all that tension to the springs, causing the studs to wear out just the same. This guy doesn't know what he's doing...I'm surprised ESP endorses this method. The proper way is to unlock the nut, loosen the strings using the tuning pegs, and remove the springs. Then adjust the action when the knife edges aren't being pulled into the studs under tension.
@@LegendLength In theory, but that's not usually what happens. He's using the bar to lessen the string tension which is imprecise (while at the same time increasing spring tension, ensuring a groove is cut into the posts). You will make a groove in a slightly different place each time by doing it this way. Then the knife edges get caught in these various grooves throwing off tuning. I know from experience.
I just did this and the action did not seem to lower until i loosed the strings as recommended in the comments? I leveled the float first as instructed in the other video. That worked great so thanks very much. :)
Great tutorial. Sadly it takes me a minimum 2 hours to change strings on my Floyd Rose LTD, with the bulk of that time endlessly going back and forth between tuning and adjusting float angle. Something to think about before you go get a guitar with one. Floyd Rose is fun but I would never buy a guitar with it ever again lol
Invest in, (or as I did, make your own) wedges, you put those in to block the bridge while tuning and pretty much tune til they fall out. Makes it quite easy. Described here: th-cam.com/video/TYcGmMJnX0M/w-d-xo.html
You just don't know how to change your strings properly, it takes me 5 minutes more than on a fixed bridge with my floyds. You need to block the floyd while changing strings, plenty of tutorials on youtube
All you have to do is block the tremolo lock it down then you turn your guitar perfectly release the block and it'll be Out Of Tune so you'll have to use the spring claw to adjust it in. Too easy
@@RaymondUpenieks thank you for the reply- I’ve since become more acquainted with the FR system, and have figured out some tricks to get the action lower. Now I’m just waiting for an FRX system to come in a left handed model!!
If I would like to increase the string action, should I move floyd arm up? And does it make sense to moving floyd while lowering the action, since the string tension is balanced by the springs?
Paweł Palutkiewicz he is lowering the bridge by fist decreasing tension on strings by tilting the bridge so that it is easier to adjust and wont damage the knife edge
Thanks for this dude...I made the mistake of not putting anything under the floating bridge last time and screwed up the action. It's fixed now (on my ESP E-II Horizon FR-7)
I changed to a hevaier gauge and still dont get were i want with lowering action & it feels like both allen parts for action are harder to tighten now, so im afraid i might wash the screws... my floating angle is fine but is that normal? Did I get to the max? Should I detune and lossen them? Btw is it possible to lower the "lighter" strings side alone or it has to be both in the SAME proportion properly? 🤔 🤔🤔🤔🤔
NEVER TURN THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON A FLOYD ROSE WITH ANY STRING TENSION OR YOU WILL KILL THE KNIFE EDGES !!! Don't listen to this guy about that part!
Good video but you didn't address the nut. What about nut height? What should it be? What are the string tolerance measurements at the 1st, 2nd & 3rd fret. If nut is too high, finger pressure causes detune.
if you have the bridge set up level (ie proper float) and then you lower the action via the two screws, how do you avoid getting a foward tilt of the bridge again??
so i always wondered. does the action have to be even on both sides. because mine always looked somewhat crooked but everything sounded and played fine
I'm guessing you've figured this out by now, but no, it doesn't. I prefer a little higher action on the bass side myself, because I hit those strings harder and the vibration is wider.
I've adjusted string height a few times without loosening string tensions with a DIP of the tremolo arm. I might have damaged the knife contact points of my Floyd rose? Until now they seem to keep tuning even after heavy use.
@@ericksousa911 The Korean made trems are not from the same grade of metal as Schaller (regular or Lockmeister) or OFR. The only thing Koreans have in common with OFR or Schaller Lockmeister, are the dimensions. Regular Schaller trems have slightly different dimensions compared to Lockmeister/OFR (compare the technical drawings on Schaller's site for regular and Lockmeister trems).
@@tehultimateshreddar would you mind tell me what grade they are? AISI 201, 304, 316, 430, ...? I guess any stainless steel grade would be strong enough for the application, aside other factors e.g corrosion resistance.
I've always, especially on anything other than an OFR, heard you need to loosen the strings and the springs or you could damage the knife edges of the trem. They will wear down eventually anyway so I admit I might make an adjustment like this once on an initial setup and try not to go back and forth but if you do this often it could effect the return to pitch ability as you are wearing it down... who knows maybe I've been wrong the past 38 years. I could have sworn the instructions that came with my OFR in 1985 is where I read this... it could also be that things have just changed and frackin' old, lol!
I didn't even pull the tremolo bar like that I screwed down the height spuds straight without doing anything :D. Wish I knew this... Also had made this to my Ibanez, hahahha, do you think doing this only once will damage the knife edges? Or how many percent do you think I messed it up?
I'd say it's fine for just getting your initial adjustment to set up the guitar. The nature of the FR is to be slamming the whammy up and down anyways, so the edges are gonna get worn down regardless.
At 3:45 you can see where the studs have a groove cut into them (chrome plating gone) from turning the studs under tension. By slacking the strings with the bar, he's transferring all that tension to the springs, causing the studs to wear out just the same. This guy doesn't know what he's doing...I'm surprised ESP endorses this method. The proper way is to unlock the nut, loosen the strings using the tuning pegs, and remove the springs. Then adjust the action when the knife edges aren't being pulled into the studs under tension.
@Nightbreed82 thank you, exactly this. Floating bridges are a balancing act between strings and springs, by keeping both at the exact same tension. Remove either strings or springs but leave the other one in, and you still have a stupid amount of tension, all of it resting on two single, tiny little points on those studs.
Hi , I was wondering can u just adjust the height on just one side ? My high e string when bend full step on the 12 fret it’s a dead note advice would be appreciated. Thanks
what if you lover your action with the strings off, but the springs in the back on? Will that damage the knife edges since there is no tension on the floyd rose?
Hi, had a saddle on my esp ltd GL500K that went bad. I had low action on it and decided to buy all new saddle to change them all. I did, but the problem with the new ones is the back of the saddle floats more then the old ones. I put them on and the strings are really high after tightening both bolts on each side of the floyd to the max. I cant go any lower and the strings are high. What went wrong??? Please help, Thanks
I just saw a whole video on NOT turning he bridge mounting studs while strings are applying tension to knife edges because that will flatten the knife edges and your bridge will never be floating right and your trem will suck and not work or stay tuned well...., just pressing the trem bar forward technically will apply LESS tension BUT you will be turning those studs against the knife edges and you will create friction which will start flattening those knife edges....bridges are expensive....not sure this is a good advise video and I LOVE ESP/LTD... videos can be so against or for , so confusing....
You are correct 1251wire. Never take the chance of pitting your knife edges and studs. Remove all tension of the strings first. In the video, you are actually putting more tension against the knife edges and studs by pulling the arm up which will put more pressure on them.
Is it still in balance? if so, then you need to replace the mounting studs as the floyd rose that come with [cheaper, entry level] esp's, and are cheaper all round[although real FR systems], they cut cost with a couple of parts. The cheaper studs have worn out the sockets on the tremolo block. Get proper mounting studs and this will fix it..[i have the same guitar].
i picked up a charvel with a floyd rose. they guy i bought it from said he recently got it setup but the bridge was so high that i could almost fit my pinky under the string lol. i love it. it has emgs 81/85 i think. its neck through with locking tuners. thanks for the vid!
Is dumping the bar like that enough to take the pressure off of the bridge post and not dull the "blades" on the trem? I'm new to the Floyd Rose and have been told time and time again to watch adjusting the action with strings in tune because it'll gouge the post.
@@accutronitisthe2nd95 So how will you setup low action if you don't lower the bridge? I also did so, where I can find the knife edges on my bridge to check if it's dead?
Lower action may reduce/dampen the string's vibration and make it buzz (vibration hits the next fret). Rise the brigde step by step and also changing larger gauge string also eliminates the buzzes
@@accutronitisthe2nd95 Hi - do I need to adjust the springs at the back ? Or is loosening the strings enough ? I'm planning on taking off all the strings so I can clean the guitar. Would it be ok to adjust the action then ? Also, do I need to put a wooden block under it when I adjust ? Or push down on trem bar ? Thanks
Make sure your guitar's neck is straight. If its a bolt on neck, take off the the neck. Put some layers of paper as shim before reattaching the neck back to the body. Do it with your own risk, or just don't. Take it to the nearest guitar repair tech. But its a neck thru body, or a set neck. My condolences ...
Don't thank him because he is wrong! NEVER TURN THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON A FLOYD ROSE WITH ANY STRING TENSION OR YOU WILL KILL THE KNIFE EDGES !!!
THANK YOU! just recently found a 1980s HM strat that i thought WAS FUCKED because of how high the string height was and the presence of a hairline crack on the neck had me sad but now she's getting nice and low and i can't wait to clean her up and restring her :D
I switched to .010 ernie ball on my new ESP with floyd rose. now the tremolo action is way harder than before. what are the options to make the action smoother ( im still using all 3 tremolo springs) while keeping tuning stability ?
The thicker the string gauge is the higher the string tension will be and the more the tremolo springs will have to pull on the tremolo to keep it level with the body (it should always be level) so the tremolo action will be higher...
Christian Whitmore but it’s just weird af to actually hear what he’s saying where as it’s so much easier to understand something like 10mm or some shit
Andrew Lauret on a licensed version made of cheaper materials it will carve grooves into the bridge posts and blunt knife edges. A proper Floyd however is made of hardened steel so this isn't really an issue
There's a trick to this that makes your Floyd as easy to set up as a hard tail. You get flat piece of wood and place it underneath the floyd tremolo block, make sure you find one that's just the right height to ensure the tremolo is perfectly level with the body. Now, loosen the tremolo spring claw screws a turns or two, and the string tension should want to pull the floyd forwards, but because you have a piece of wood underneath the tremolo, it stays level. You do all your adjustments, change strings whatever, and when you're done, you very slowly start tightening the spring claw screws, in small adjustments, evenly, until the block slides out from the tremolo with no wiggle room. Boom, done. No reason at all to struggle with these, they are very easy to setup.
This sounds like a really good strategy! Do you have a video of some sort to show how to it so I can better visualize this? I’m mainly confused on where to put the wooden block. Under the trem or between the trem block and the body on the back of the guitar? Thanks man!
I never had a great guitar since from begining i had crap and i always getting angered about it because the damn strings always is high from frets and never fast and easy to play and in stores also some strings are to high where can to help me to solve problem to this zhx
I just can't belive what i'm seeing here... This is an official video from ESP Guitars. -WTF! When people told me about this YT-clip: I simply assumed that other luthieres were pulling my leg with this. And to my big suprice it turns out that they wasn't???!! NOW i finally understand why i have had so many locking trem ESP Guitars in my shop over the years! 'Till now; i have always assumed that it was the owners/users/customers of ESP Guitars that was the reason why theese branded guitars have so much problem with tuning issues. Even on their high end guitars. You only have to watch this video -to understand what the real problem accually is at ESP Guitars Custom Shop. (This is the highets level luthiere at company.) -WTF! Regardless of what is shown in this video; You should NOT adjust the string posts -with string tension on. This scars -and ruins the tremposts as well as the knifeedges on the trem baseplate. It doesn't matter much; if You dive the string tension like shown in this video. This only adds the equal amount tension from the springs on the other side. Short: You should NEVER, EVER turn the posts with string tension on! This also explaines something my first ESP experience as a teenager: (Long before i became a working Luthiere/Tech.) I worked my ass off for one entire summer in the late eighties; saving up to get the ESP Purple Tiger guitar. (Yeah; Am still a big fan of Lynch.) Unfortunetly the guitar that arrived to me from ESP; unfortunetly had a twisted/bent neck. Still i got to inspect the guitar thorougly in my local musicstore; before it was returned back to ESP. I remember everything was 'aces' apart from the neck issue. And how i adored every possible detail of that beautiful, maple bodied guitar! Later; my new guitar arrived to to my musicstore. To my suprice this was the same guitar; with a new neck. It was just as beatiful -as i remembered. The neck was perfect -but the guitar wouldn't stay in tune. To our suprice in the shop; we soon noticed the problem: Someone at the ESP Custom shop had adjusted the Floyd bridge height with string tension on. There grooves on the posts has deep scars -and the knife edges on the base plate were "dull". At this point my local store took petty on me -and gave me a free Floyd Rose trem -that was correctly mounted on to the guitar. After that this thing was JUST PERFECT! I loved it and svore by it! Unfortunetly this guitar was stolen from me 7 years later -and was replaced with a different brand guitar. I have had many Tigers and Kamikazes in mu shop over the years. And i still basicly are in awe -for thoose guitars everytime single time i get the privilege work on them. With all this said: ESP seems to have had theese issues since the beginning. Obviously the company still has the same problem on the highest level at their customshop. This really is a shame on otherwise good qouality products. Today the competition between all different brands of instrument makers is beyond fearce. And ESP as a company can't afford to have their company name associated with this kinda thing any longer.
@@THERISENWILLFALL Call it what ever You need to understand it. But it is still A FACT; that turning the post under tension WILL damage both the posts; as well as the contact edges on the baseplate. Like that lame power name You got there. -Good ole Gus didn't quite cut it; right..? LOL
I have to contrary issue.. I just changed the guitar strings but they are hitting the frets. I'm not sure how to fix this. I tried to fix/adjust the bridge height but still same problem. What do you recommend I should do? I don't feel very comfortable experimenting with my guitar, I hope you can give me an answer.
Ok people. To adjust the bridge posts you SHOULD remove as much tension as possible. That's just the safest way. This takes time, though, so: the Genuine Floyd Original is built with SUPERIOR materials, making it EXTREMELY resistant to damage. If you have a Floyd Special/Floyd Licensed/etc. then you are already fucking up your knife edges just by USING it. First upgrade for a guitar: install a Genuine Floyd Original. Way better than installing new pickups, for example.
So, the Floyd Rose Special uses exactly the same steel baseplate and knife edges as the original Floyd. The saddles and sustain block on the Special use zinc alloy, which is why they are cheaper, but this has no effect on the durability of the knife edges since they are made of steel.
Literally just need to adjust one string and nobody on the internet can show me how to do that just been sitting here for hours hoping someone drives through my home with me in it.
Очки носить надо, если не видно. А так, не всегда медиаторы достаточно тонкие под рукой есть (когда, например, 1,5мм используешь). И линейкой не надо угол подбирать (медиатором можно по неаккуратности и 1мм в 2 превратить).
Even you think that you lower the tension, as soon as you turn the driver, floyd knives gonna get damaged. Your tune will differ between floyd up and down. You should lower the tension of the strings and separate the knives from studs while heightening, Rubbish!
You should always loosen your strings before any bridge adjustments... The guy in the video took a short cut by pushing the arm forward.... Which makes the tension of the strings lower.... That may work for small adjustments...
@@kenmasters007 No it won't. Because when he lowers the tension on the strings by pressing the floyd, he actually increases the pressure on the springs at the back.
@@hasahchan4775 So is there a way back now? I also didn't loosen strings neither springs, doing that. should I do it again by loosening them and tighten again the bridge or is it already too late?
I don't know many brands that upload tutorials on youtube !
Thank you ESP !
NEVER TURN THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON A FLOYD ROSE WITH ANY STRING TENSION OR YOU WILL KILL THE KNIFE EDGES !!! Don't listen to this guy about that part!
@@accutronitisthe2nd95 3:31 check that part again! ;)
Not enough.
@@jagm6430 Diving the trem (like shown on this video) -only adds equal ammount of pressure on the studs -from the springs.
@@MrJonken70 I didn't see it on that way, but has logic; I think you're right..
Thanks so much. Just got online a brand new ESP and it arrives with action way too low - buzzing all over. This is the first video I saw and it's so helpful. Thank you.
I wish i had these videos when i was younger in the early 90s i had guitars with locking trems etc but had limited knowledge in how to set up correctly....excellent videos.
I feel you man but I’ve found the best way to learn this shit is trial and error
Thank you for this video!! Even though a metal player, I play fairly light and do a lot of soloing, so the lower action is preferred.
Just bought my first Floyd guitar... Ltd H1001 deluxe. Absolutely love it!
Been using FR for over 20 years, I also see when the strings fret out when lowering the FR to get the amount of play I need. Very good thanks
At 3:45 you can see where the studs have a groove cut into them (chrome plating gone) from turning the studs under tension. This is at least a Floyd Rose 1000 series, and I've seen the same happen with OFR and Schaller Lockmeister (great trems....the best). For those saying normal use wears the knife edges the same as turning the studs under tension.....WRONG. Turning the studs under tension literally cuts into the posts (grooves in studs = bad...bridge won't return to pitch) and takes off at least the chrome plating of the knife edges (just to start with).
Try this experiment, take a sharp knife and push the blade against your skin but rock it side to side like a fulcrum. Then, take the same knife, push the blade against your skin but pull the handle so that it cuts. Now tell me....which method is going to slice your skin and draw blood?
The PROPER way is to unlock the nut, loosen the strings via the tuning pegs, and remove the springs. Takes a little longer, kind of a pain, but will preserve your bridge.
That's right.
this was really helpful, kudos to ESP and the instructor!
Don't listen to this guy! NEVER TURN THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON A FLOYD ROSE WITH ANY STRING TENSION OR YOU WILL KILL THE KNIFE EDGES !!!
You use the whammy bar to “lower the tension” on the strings, but what about the springs on the back of the guitar? They exert an even bigger force on the Floyd Rose now. Won’t that damage the edge of your Floyd Rose ?
NEVER TURN THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON A FLOYD ROSE WITH ANY STRING TENSION OR YOU WILL KILL THE KNIFE EDGES !!! Don't listen to this guy about that part!
That is excactly what I was thinking.
That thin fine edge is considered a “wear” item in my book. Obviously not changing out often but depending on use, should be checked and replaced as needed. Don’t want wear on your guitar?, don’t play it.
@@accutronitisthe2nd95 kill? lol not on a good floyd bridge, this only happens on shitty tremolos. This myth started from all the cheap versions of the floyd where the knife edges are crap from the start. You think a little adjustment is going to kill cast metal? lol when you're using the bar, you're already rubbing on the knife edges just as much if not more
@@accutronitisthe2nd95 Or better yet, lock your trem and never use it, ever, it will stay sharp for eternity. You rub them knives just as much when playing, if you have an OFR/FR1000/Schaller/Gotoh/Edge (the original and Lo-Pro), you have nothing to worry about. If you have a licensed pot metal bridge, you're fucked either way. Stop spreading uneducated rumors, all you're doing is making some teenager go through the hassle of taking off springs and putting them back on for no rational reason.
Isn't it bad for the blades on the Floyd Rose to adjust the screws while they are under tension from the springs and strings? I've always heard to loosen the strings and then remove the springs before adjusting those screws. Reason being turning those screws while they're under tension will cause the blades to go dull-which will cause tuning issues. It's a real pain lowering the Acton then hooking everything back up, only to realize you have to do it again.
I agree. There must be an easier way.
At 3:45 you can see where the studs have a groove cut into them (chrome plating gone) from turning the studs under tension. By slacking the strings with the bar, he's transferring all that tension to the springs, causing the studs to wear out just the same. This guy doesn't know what he's doing...I'm surprised ESP endorses this method. The proper way is to unlock the nut, loosen the strings using the tuning pegs, and remove the springs. Then adjust the action when the knife edges aren't being pulled into the studs under tension.
@@Nightbreed82 I think realistically it will just cut a deeper grove, therefore it will still have a proper center.
@@LegendLength In theory, but that's not usually what happens. He's using the bar to lessen the string tension which is imprecise (while at the same time increasing spring tension, ensuring a groove is cut into the posts). You will make a groove in a slightly different place each time by doing it this way. Then the knife edges get caught in these various grooves throwing off tuning. I know from experience.
@@Nightbreed82 That's fair. Do you know if Edge Zero II has good metal there?
I know this was done years ago, but still a huge help! Thank you so much!
I just did this and the action did not seem to lower until i loosed the strings as recommended in the comments? I leveled the float first as instructed in the other video. That worked great so thanks very much. :)
Great tutorial.
Sadly it takes me a minimum 2 hours to change strings on my Floyd Rose LTD, with the bulk of that time endlessly going back and forth between tuning and adjusting float angle. Something to think about before you go get a guitar with one.
Floyd Rose is fun but I would never buy a guitar with it ever again lol
@@Acr0polis block them then lol easy to do
Invest in, (or as I did, make your own) wedges, you put those in to block the bridge while tuning and pretty much tune til they fall out. Makes it quite easy. Described here: th-cam.com/video/TYcGmMJnX0M/w-d-xo.html
You just don't know how to change your strings properly, it takes me 5 minutes more than on a fixed bridge with my floyds. You need to block the floyd while changing strings, plenty of tutorials on youtube
A lot of that time is because the strings need to stretch
All you have to do is block the tremolo lock it down then you turn your guitar perfectly release the block and it'll be Out Of Tune so you'll have to use the spring claw to adjust it in. Too easy
If you lower the two point studs, does that affect its flatness across the body?
Lowering the Floyd Rose will lower the strings across the entire fretboard if that's what you meant.
@@RaymondUpenieks thank you for the reply- I’ve since become more acquainted with the FR system, and have figured out some tricks to get the action lower. Now I’m just waiting for an FRX system to come in a left handed model!!
If I would like to increase the string action, should I move floyd arm up? And does it make sense to moving floyd while lowering the action, since the string tension is balanced by the springs?
Paweł Palutkiewicz he is lowering the bridge by fist decreasing tension on strings by tilting the bridge so that it is easier to adjust and wont damage the knife edge
Thanks for this dude...I made the mistake of not putting anything under the floating bridge last time and screwed up the action. It's fixed now (on my ESP E-II Horizon FR-7)
Fancy seeing you here lol
I changed to a hevaier gauge and still dont get were i want with lowering action & it feels like both allen parts for action are harder to tighten now, so im afraid i might wash the screws... my floating angle is fine but is that normal? Did I get to the max? Should I detune and lossen them? Btw is it possible to lower the "lighter" strings side alone or it has to be both in the SAME proportion properly? 🤔 🤔🤔🤔🤔
NEVER TURN THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON A FLOYD ROSE WITH ANY STRING TENSION OR YOU WILL KILL THE KNIFE EDGES !!! Don't listen to this guy about that part!
@@accutronitisthe2nd95yes, you need to take the springs out & detune strings
nice ,was that clockwise to lower action..? Looked like it. one full rotation for how much drop...? Thanks got it
Good video but you didn't address the nut. What about nut height? What should it be? What are the string tolerance measurements at the 1st, 2nd & 3rd fret. If nut is too high, finger pressure causes detune.
if you have the bridge set up level (ie proper float) and then you lower the action via the two screws, how do you avoid getting a foward tilt of the bridge again??
so i always wondered. does the action have to be even on both sides. because mine always looked somewhat crooked but everything sounded and played fine
I'm guessing you've figured this out by now, but no, it doesn't. I prefer a little higher action on the bass side myself, because I hit those strings harder and the vibration is wider.
@@chrisking6695 whatever works for you. The wound strings are a lot thicker though, so they need more room to vibrate. But I like very low action.
I had to do a conversion. 1/16 of an inch is 1.58mm, for those of us outside Myanmar, Liberia and the USA. So it can be rounded to 1.6mm.
I've adjusted string height a few times without loosening string tensions with a DIP of the tremolo arm. I might have damaged the knife contact points of my Floyd rose? Until now they seem to keep tuning even after heavy use.
@@Acr0polis Mine is FR 1000 series, the Korean made ones with the same specs of the Schaller FRs
@@ericksousa911 The Korean made trems are not from the same grade of metal as Schaller (regular or Lockmeister) or OFR. The only thing Koreans have in common with OFR or Schaller Lockmeister, are the dimensions. Regular Schaller trems have slightly different dimensions compared to Lockmeister/OFR (compare the technical drawings on Schaller's site for regular and Lockmeister trems).
@@tehultimateshreddar would you mind tell me what grade they are? AISI 201, 304, 316, 430, ...? I guess any stainless steel grade would be strong enough for the application, aside other factors e.g corrosion resistance.
I've always, especially on anything other than an OFR, heard you need to loosen the strings and the springs or you could damage the knife edges of the trem. They will wear down eventually anyway so I admit I might make an adjustment like this once on an initial setup and try not to go back and forth but if you do this often it could effect the return to pitch ability as you are wearing it down... who knows maybe I've been wrong the past 38 years. I could have sworn the instructions that came with my OFR in 1985 is where I read this... it could also be that things have just changed and frackin' old, lol!
I'm a guitar beginner. When you have time, watch my videos and coach to me.
Have nice day bro ~ !!!
I didn't even pull the tremolo bar like that I screwed down the height spuds straight without doing anything :D. Wish I knew this... Also had made this to my Ibanez, hahahha, do you think doing this only once will damage the knife edges? Or how many percent do you think I messed it up?
I'd say it's fine for just getting your initial adjustment to set up the guitar. The nature of the FR is to be slamming the whammy up and down anyways, so the edges are gonna get worn down regardless.
At 3:45 you can see where the studs have a groove cut into them (chrome plating gone) from turning the studs under tension. By slacking the strings with the bar, he's transferring all that tension to the springs, causing the studs to wear out just the same. This guy doesn't know what he's doing...I'm surprised ESP endorses this method. The proper way is to unlock the nut, loosen the strings using the tuning pegs, and remove the springs. Then adjust the action when the knife edges aren't being pulled into the studs under tension.
@Nightbreed82 thank you, exactly this. Floating bridges are a balancing act between strings and springs, by keeping both at the exact same tension. Remove either strings or springs but leave the other one in, and you still have a stupid amount of tension, all of it resting on two single, tiny little points on those studs.
is it normal if low E string have a slight buzz on open chord?, my string action is Low
Brilliant...thanks...needed to lower the action on my jackson n didnt know how
Can you please upload a video about adjusting string height on a TuneOMatic?
Covers Inc. i was like when did i comment this? :D
Opps I did it again xD
That is one beautiful guitar.
What are the measurements in millimeters?
Thank you so much man had my strings way to high ! Love my LTD ESP
Man this really made my guitar play so much better! Thank you!!
Would,t guitar intonation also depend on strings size gauge as well
Hi , I was wondering can u just adjust the height on just one side ? My high e string when bend full step on the 12 fret it’s a dead note advice would be appreciated. Thanks
what if you lover your action with the strings off, but the springs in the back on? Will that damage the knife edges since there is no tension on the floyd rose?
I'd imagine different string gauges would require a bit of truss rod adjustment as well?
What model is he using in the video. Its a beautiful guitar.
Is it best to unlock the nut before you lower the action? Then tune it and then relock?
I like that guitar, where can I buy one now that 4 years has gone by?
Sir, mine is at the lowest but strings still sitting high. What should I do?
Hi, had a saddle on my esp ltd GL500K that went bad. I had low action on it and decided to buy all new saddle to change them all. I did, but the problem with the new ones is the back of the saddle floats more then the old ones. I put them on and the strings are really high after tightening both bolts on each side of the floyd to the max. I cant go any lower and the strings are high. What went wrong??? Please help, Thanks
I just saw a whole video on NOT turning he bridge mounting studs while strings are applying tension to knife edges because that will flatten the knife edges and your bridge will never be floating right and your trem will suck and not work or stay tuned well...., just pressing the trem bar forward technically will apply LESS tension BUT you will be turning those studs against the knife edges and you will create friction which will start flattening those knife edges....bridges are expensive....not sure this is a good advise video and I LOVE ESP/LTD... videos can be so against or for , so confusing....
You are correct 1251wire. Never take the chance of pitting your knife edges and studs. Remove all tension of the strings first. In the video, you are actually putting more tension against the knife edges and studs by pulling the arm up which will put more pressure on them.
Lex10999 thank you...thought I was crazy...
1251 I need that video please
Thank you. That was my main concern.
That triggered me when I saw the tech doing it like this. Don't ever do that, people.
Hi, i have a kh202, i made the action closer to the neck and now my guitar wont hold tune. Do you have any advice, thanks :)
Is it still in balance? if so, then you need to replace the mounting studs as the floyd rose that come with [cheaper, entry level] esp's, and are cheaper all round[although real FR systems], they cut cost with a couple of parts. The cheaper studs have worn out the sockets on the tremolo block. Get proper mounting studs and this will fix it..[i have the same guitar].
Possibility you damaged the knife edges when turning the height adjusters?
what's that intro and outro song?
The whammy trick for intonation was so clever
i picked up a charvel with a floyd rose. they guy i bought it from said he recently got it setup but the bridge was so high that i could almost fit my pinky under the string lol. i love it. it has emgs 81/85 i think. its neck through with locking tuners. thanks for the vid!
Is dumping the bar like that enough to take the pressure off of the bridge post and not dull the "blades" on the trem? I'm new to the Floyd Rose and have been told time and time again to watch adjusting the action with strings in tune because it'll gouge the post.
YES NEVER TURN THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON A FLOYD ROSE WITH ANY STRING TENSION OR YOU WILL KILL THE KNIFE EDGES !!!
@@accutronitisthe2nd95 So how will you setup low action if you don't lower the bridge? I also did so, where I can find the knife edges on my bridge to check if it's dead?
Take it off and look at it SMH
So if there are buzzs and the action(low) is still not in my likeness, what do we do?
Lower action may reduce/dampen the string's vibration and make it buzz (vibration hits the next fret).
Rise the brigde step by step and also changing larger gauge string also eliminates the buzzes
I got mine and the damn bridge was a little high in front had to level it out myself. That’s why always check the guitar when it comes in the mail.
This guitar gave me a headache. Thank you for your help. Thank you.
Thanx. I have viper 10 wherin intonation adjustment is to be done from sideaway towards pickup side. Is that right?
When detuning to adjust action, how much should you detune by - a whole step on each string, or more?
All the way lose!
@@accutronitisthe2nd95 aww man
:[
Mounting screws are still under pressure from spring tension. Have to loosen strings.
YES THAT"S CORRECT, NEVER TURN THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON A FLOYD ROSE WITH ANY STRING TENSION OR YOU WILL KILL THE KNIFE EDGES !!!
@@accutronitisthe2nd95 Hi - do I need to adjust the springs at the back ? Or is loosening the strings enough ? I'm planning on taking off all the strings so I can clean the guitar. Would it be ok to adjust the action then ? Also, do I need to put a wooden block under it when I adjust ? Or push down on trem bar ? Thanks
What if your action is high but the bridge is resting on the body and there’s no room for further adjustments?
Make sure your guitar's neck is straight. If its a bolt on neck, take off the the neck. Put some layers of paper as shim before reattaching the neck back to the body. Do it with your own risk, or just don't. Take it to the nearest guitar repair tech.
But its a neck thru body, or a set neck. My condolences ...
So i am a huge idiot and i messed up around with the string height settings and im sure both sides are un even. Any suggestions?
Finally a guy that’s gets to the instruction right away. Just received a new esp Kirk Hammett (China) plays pretty good but this should help.
This is awesome. im just about to go through my ltd with the floyd rose, Great info. Thanks
NEVER TURN THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON A FLOYD ROSE WITH ANY STRING TENSION OR YOU WILL KILL THE KNIFE EDGES !!!
Thanks. Now I understand how to cancel the buzzing.
Thanks, ESP!
Don't thank him because he is wrong! NEVER TURN THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS ON A FLOYD ROSE WITH ANY STRING TENSION OR YOU WILL KILL THE KNIFE EDGES !!!
I rose the strong action. Didn’t stop the fret buzz at all. I kept raising it and nothing changed.
THANK YOU! just recently found a 1980s HM strat that i thought WAS FUCKED because of how high the string height was and the presence of a hairline crack on the neck had me sad but now she's getting nice and low and i can't wait to clean her up and restring her :D
I switched to .010 ernie ball on my new ESP with floyd rose. now the tremolo action is way harder than before.
what are the options to make the action smoother ( im still using all 3 tremolo springs) while keeping tuning stability ?
The thicker the string gauge is the higher the string tension will be and the more the tremolo springs will have to pull on the tremolo to keep it level with the body (it should always be level) so the tremolo action will be higher...
Tqvm for the info guru👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Why do the strings buzz the lower the action?
What’s is the intro and out song
how about measurement on mm instead of this weird seconds and inches and stuff
DOOM DEER ain't it something? Only USA use "customary, standard or imperial" don't wanna use metric.
He said 32nd's not seconds.
DOOM DEER just look up a conversion from 2/32 to mm
Christian Whitmore but it’s just weird af to actually hear what he’s saying where as it’s so much easier to understand something like 10mm or some shit
just get smarter.
Is it really safe to rotate studs without losing strings?
I have for 30 years. No problems.
nekro being doing it for 14 years. No problem.
Dude, I thought you had to loose all strings to adjust height on a FR equipped guitar...
Guess I've been played for a fool, lol
Andrew Lauret on a licensed version made of cheaper materials it will carve grooves into the bridge posts and blunt knife edges. A proper Floyd however is made of hardened steel so this isn't really an issue
Just because these other commenters have been doing it wrong for many years doesn't make it right.
the adjustment screws won't move when I try to lower or raise the action
Stud lock screw needs loosening
.. Thank You for your insight.
my g string height is bit low in compare to other which causes only buzzing in g string..
how to fix it
please help
could be your nut slot for the g, or the saddle height
Can you please help me with my guitar, the action is super high and I have the pegs all the way down and it’s still super high idk what wrong 😐
Have you tried adjusting your truss tod?
감사합니다 플로이드 로즈 기타 산지 1주만에 해법을 찾았습니다
There's a trick to this that makes your Floyd as easy to set up as a hard tail. You get flat piece of wood and place it underneath the floyd tremolo block, make sure you find one that's just the right height to ensure the tremolo is perfectly level with the body. Now, loosen the tremolo spring claw screws a turns or two, and the string tension should want to pull the floyd forwards, but because you have a piece of wood underneath the tremolo, it stays level. You do all your adjustments, change strings whatever, and when you're done, you very slowly start tightening the spring claw screws, in small adjustments, evenly, until the block slides out from the tremolo with no wiggle room. Boom, done. No reason at all to struggle with these, they are very easy to setup.
This sounds like a really good strategy! Do you have a video of some sort to show how to it so I can better visualize this? I’m mainly confused on where to put the wooden block. Under the trem or between the trem block and the body on the back of the guitar? Thanks man!
There's even little blocks made with millimeter steps in the wood, so you can just adjust the block more exactly.
I never had a great guitar since from begining i had crap and i always getting angered about it because the damn strings always is high from frets and never fast and easy to play and in stores also some strings are to high where can to help me to solve problem to this zhx
so helpful, great full!
Thank you so much!
Holy ! Wish I would have known this when I was younger lol
how do i only lower single string?
Fixed bridges have individual saddles.
thank you 🎶
Thank you this helped so much!!!
What is that model
Thanks so much
"Now that you've adjusted the float of the bridge..." wait when did you do that? Must be a different video.... :p
I just can't belive what i'm seeing here... This is an official video from ESP Guitars. -WTF! When people told me about this YT-clip: I simply assumed that other luthieres were pulling my leg with this. And to my big suprice it turns out that they wasn't???!!
NOW i finally understand why i have had so many locking trem ESP Guitars in my shop over the years!
'Till now; i have always assumed that it was the owners/users/customers of ESP Guitars that was the reason why theese branded guitars have so much problem with tuning issues. Even on their high end guitars. You only have to watch this video -to understand what the real problem accually is at ESP Guitars Custom Shop. (This is the highets level luthiere at company.) -WTF!
Regardless of what is shown in this video; You should NOT adjust the string posts -with string tension on. This scars -and ruins the tremposts as well as the knifeedges on the trem baseplate. It doesn't matter much; if You dive the string tension like shown in this video. This only adds the equal amount tension from the springs on the other side. Short: You should NEVER, EVER turn the posts with string tension on!
This also explaines something my first ESP experience as a teenager: (Long before i became a working Luthiere/Tech.)
I worked my ass off for one entire summer in the late eighties; saving up to get the ESP Purple Tiger guitar. (Yeah; Am still a big fan of Lynch.) Unfortunetly the guitar that arrived to me from ESP; unfortunetly had a twisted/bent neck. Still i got to inspect the guitar thorougly in my local musicstore; before it was returned back to ESP. I remember everything was 'aces' apart from the neck issue. And how i adored every possible detail of that beautiful, maple bodied guitar!
Later; my new guitar arrived to to my musicstore. To my suprice this was the same guitar; with a new neck. It was just as beatiful -as i remembered. The neck was perfect -but the guitar wouldn't stay in tune. To our suprice in the shop; we soon noticed the problem: Someone at the ESP Custom shop had adjusted the Floyd bridge height with string tension on. There grooves on the posts has deep scars -and the knife edges on the base plate were "dull". At this point my local store took petty on me -and gave me a free Floyd Rose trem -that was correctly mounted on to the guitar. After that this thing was JUST PERFECT! I loved it and svore by it! Unfortunetly this guitar was stolen from me 7 years later -and was replaced with a different brand guitar. I have had many Tigers and Kamikazes in mu shop over the years. And i still basicly are in awe -for thoose guitars everytime single time i get the privilege work on them.
With all this said: ESP seems to have had theese issues since the beginning. Obviously the company still has the same problem on the highest level at their customshop. This really is a shame on otherwise good qouality products. Today the competition between all different brands of instrument makers is beyond fearce. And ESP as a company can't afford to have their company name associated with this kinda thing any longer.
Like there is no wear just being
in contact......doing those big whammy dive stink bombs👉🤡
@@cragway There is A BIG difference in normal function contact -and turning the post with string tension on man...
@@cragway you don't think there is any difference in pivoting vs. Rubbing? That clown emoji, is you...
@@THERISENWILLFALL Call it what ever You need to understand it. But it is still A FACT; that turning the post under tension WILL damage both the posts; as well as the contact edges on the baseplate.
Like that lame power name You got there. -Good ole Gus didn't quite cut it; right..? LOL
@@THERISENWILLFALL C'mon man!...Wear a mask😷
What is 16th of an inch in mm?
1,58mm
@@brunosoupin2746 thank you
Thx for this video
thanks for the content. i so hate these bridges, i wish the alternatives were more mainstream.
I wish Kahler was cheaper and more widespread. It's superior in many ways.
I learned so much !
Floyd Rose even bottomed out the action is always higher than what you can get with a hard tail
I have to contrary issue.. I just changed the guitar strings but they are hitting the frets. I'm not sure how to fix this. I tried to fix/adjust the bridge height but still same problem. What do you recommend I should do? I don't feel very comfortable experimenting with my guitar, I hope you can give me an answer.
Majdi Habash the nut height
Sounds like you didn’t adjust enough
Ok people. To adjust the bridge posts you SHOULD remove as much tension as possible. That's just the safest way. This takes time, though, so: the Genuine Floyd Original is built with SUPERIOR materials, making it EXTREMELY resistant to damage. If you have a Floyd Special/Floyd Licensed/etc. then you are already fucking up your knife edges just by USING it. First upgrade for a guitar: install a Genuine Floyd Original. Way better than installing new pickups, for example.
So, the Floyd Rose Special uses exactly the same steel baseplate and knife edges as the original Floyd. The saddles and sustain block on the Special use zinc alloy, which is why they are cheaper, but this has no effect on the durability of the knife edges since they are made of steel.
My problem is that the g string is lower than the rest
Everyone's playing is different and how the action feels in use
Literally just need to adjust one string and nobody on the internet can show me how to do that just been sitting here for hours hoping someone drives through my home with me in it.
Зачем линейка? Там ничего не видно толком. Есть же медиаторы разной толщины, которые вставляешь между струной и ладом и сразу видно расстояние.
Очки носить надо, если не видно. А так, не всегда медиаторы достаточно тонкие под рукой есть (когда, например, 1,5мм используешь). И линейкой не надо угол подбирать (медиатором можно по неаккуратности и 1мм в 2 превратить).
@@Admiral_Bongo не неси чушь. Медиаторы покупаются штук 5-7 разной толщины и они всегда под рукой.
@@НиколайПупков-х1ю Не вижу смысла покупать другие, когда уже привык к конкретной толщине, которую только и юзаешь.
Even you think that you lower the tension, as soon as you turn the driver, floyd knives gonna get damaged. Your tune will differ between floyd up and down. You should lower the tension of the strings and separate the knives from studs while heightening, Rubbish!
wrong that only for cheap trems
You should always loosen your strings before any bridge adjustments... The guy in the video took a short cut by pushing the arm forward.... Which makes the tension of the strings lower.... That may work for small adjustments...
@@kenmasters007 not if you have a knife edges and posts that are made of hardened steel.
@@naegleriafowleri2230 I would still loosen it since you can't really turn it while under pressure
@@kenmasters007 No it won't. Because when he lowers the tension on the strings by pressing the floyd, he actually increases the pressure on the springs at the back.
How about 11s for these type of bridges? Works well?
might need to throw an extra spring on and tighten down the claw, but it should work fine!
Thank you/
good vid.. thanks..
The screw is coming off but it is not adjusting the height
Henrix98 u max out the depth,cut off a little bit on your stud screw.
Brilliant! Using the Trem bar to decrease the tension before adjusting....
Now why didn't I think of that ;)
Then you torturing the knife edges
@@hasahchan4775 So is there a way back now? I also didn't loosen strings neither springs, doing that. should I do it again by loosening them and tighten again the bridge or is it already too late?
@@mylogify you can always do that when adjusting/change tuning and changing string.