This always happens when you put un anodized aluminum in a dishwasher. It’s a reaction with the detergent. The protective aluminum oxide coating on anodized aluminum prevents detergent from getting to the aluminum metal below.
You can't use anything caustic (basic) on aluminum. Dishwasher soap is extremely basic. So is oven cleaner, and general "kitchen de greasers". All very bad for aluminum. If you washed it with hot water and hand dishwashing detergent (like dawn or palmolive, etc) with a soft dishcloth, you'd have nearly perfect results.
I have literally just bought an SX-750 yesterday. I love receivers, not just the sound quality but also how they look. Being on a limited budget I have to save fairly hard but the Pioneer joins an elite group of receivers I will never sell. I can see the merits of power washing, every electrical item on the PCBs should be completely sealed with maybe the relay being the exception but what really has my toes curling is the time spent in the oven afterwards. I worry the meters will melt, maybe the circuit boards will warp, it's frightening so hats off to you for having the courage to do it.
As I've been repairing audio gear since before you were born, (and since you clearly asked in the title of your video), maybe I can help. To clean a nasty aluminum faceplate without removing the lettering or corroding it (that white stuff you found on the faceplate is aluminum oxide, the faceplate is ruined), take the faceplate off just as you did and clean it and the knobs with generous amounts of Simple Green and a microfiber cloth. You may need two or three cloths. I like to actually soak the knobs in the simple green in a bowl for a few minutes. This will even remove decades of cigarette smoke without damage. You still need to avoid rubbing too hard on the lettering, as it's just silk-screened on and then coated in clear-coat, and DO NOT use anything but a cloth to rub the faceplate. Windex works for the glass, of course. You'll need cotton swabs for the detail work. I get the ones from Amazon with pointed tips. And they're called car washes because they're NOT stereo washes. If I did that to one of the pieces of gear I work on for a living, I'd never get another client again. To clean the innards of a nasty stereo, you'll need to invest in some CRC electronic cleaner and a couple of 2" paint brushes. For an entire unit you may need two or three cans of the cleaner. Wash the innards down with the cleaner and use the brushes to wash the grime away. Do this in a well-ventilated area. The cleaner evaporates in seconds, so work on one section at a time. For a unit that's really dirty, you'll have to take the thing apart to get to everything. This is work and expense you can't get out of if you want the results without doing damage. Yes, I know you've done the power wash thing without apparent damage both on this and on a Marantz. The operative here is APPARENT. Problems may well make themselves evident days, weeks, or months later because you didn't get all the water out that you put in to things like the power transformer, RF and IF transformers, the tuning capacitor, the speaker relay, switches, etc. It's OK to power wash circuit boards that have only sealed components and whose traces are entirely sealed with conformal coating, like modern-day computer motherboards. But not this stuff. And not entire units. Oh, and I started out by saying that I had been doing this since before you were born. If you're more than 45 years old, I stand corrected, and retract that statement. 🙂
Scott GR… He’s not doing it for a living plus he said it was for satire. I would send my stuff to you before I had him work on it but come on, it’s fun to watch. I’m sure if he wanted to he could do all the things you mentioned but his views would drop. He’s a uTube’er you are a professional stereo repair tech. Gotta admit tho it is amusing? By the way thanks for the simple green tip.
@@bubbleone6526 He said that this time but I don't think he said it wouldn't he power-washed a Marantz receiver in another video. I'll have to look. And I am happy to see a younger person doing this kind of work. We old guys are a dying breed and there's very few of us left working on units from this era. I just don't want to see gear like this damaged during repair attempts, I don't want to see people get hurt by unsafe practices, and I hope he will take my advice to heart. Simple Green is a lifesaver for removing tar from cigarettes!
@@ScottGrammer Thanks for the reply. Yeah it’s hard to find a good repair person let along a bad one now days. I have a Harmon Kardon Citation 16 that need a good going thru and here in Washington it almost impossible to find anyone.
Mark Walker (blueglowelectronics) who I consider an expert doesn't recommend this power washing. As for the CRC cleaner I seldom use it you need to be outdoors in the open air.
On my dusty 750, I removed the back and removed a lot of dust from around the components.after getting the big stuff, there was still a greasy coating on the boards ( May have been a smoker around it years before) . I got a full can of CRC electronic cleaner, turned the chassis on its side and washed from top to bottom with heavy flow of CRC liquid. The dirt flowed offf, without any moisture to short or corrode components. The unit plays cooler now and the Crc cleaned the boards and components with visible dirt running off the low side. I did this on both sides. That all you really need to do to. the inside.I LET IT DRY for several hours before powering up. i also cleaned the controls with CRC, followed by De Oxit. The unit works like New now.
Usually white flaky residue on aluminum is corrosion, which is exactly what that looks like. I'm wondering if the high heat of the dishwasher took off the clear coat on the faceplate and it corroded during the drying. If you get it all off and looking good without damaging the lettering I'd hit it with a couple of coats of clear before you put it all back together.
Sure makes me wonder. I clean radios all the time, usually tube boat anchors, but I've never put anything in the dishwasher. My wife would kill me if I did.🤣🤣🤣
AH, did you bake or broil the Pioneer soufflé? Too bad about the coating on the faceplate. You’ve got your work cut out for you with this unit. Can’t wait to see it restored. Amazing it still works at all after power washing it.
For the oxidized aluminum face plate and knobs: try using some cream of tartar mixed with a little water to form a paste and use that to gently clean off the white residue.
This is pretty much a list of things NOT to do!!!! And he paid the price with losing the protective layer over his anodized front panel. I am a professional restorer of high end equipment for high end customers. I would like to propose the following alternative techniques to what he did, and I think I know something about the topic because I have done hundreds of these throughout 4 decades, and almost never had a failure. First of all, I always start with Q-tips and distilled water - the same technique used for restoring fine artwork because it is GENTLE and EFFECTIVE. You would be surprised just how many contaminants love to come off. The reason is simple - high concentrations of chemicals naturally want to move to lower concentrations. So they love to combine with water. I think that would have done a much more effective cleaning than what he did. It would not have attacked the protective coating on his front panel and knobs. I cringe when I see power washers and air compressors used on equipment. First of all because the equipment is DELICATE. Pressure of any type can bend tuning capacitor plates, resulting in the need to straighten them and do a full instrument alignment. I do not see any equipment here that could do an instrument alignment, so his receiver IS (not may be - IS) in need of a full instrument alignment. The second reason I cringe is the chemical makeup of tap water. Especially in a car wash, which can legally use reclaimed sewer water not safe to drink. He not only put minerals from the tap water all over his receiver, but he also baked them onto every surface. Water, contaminated or not, likes to wick into small places. Every single one of the IF transformers, and variable capacitors such as those on or near the tuning cap are now full of water, and a back at 170 degrees for an hour and a half is nowhere near sufficient to get it out. I do soaks, too, but in DISTILLED water - pH neutral - and SOAK, not pressure wash. I am continually surprised at how long it takes to dry out. I NEVER bake, because plastic formulations in many capacitors, and in many RF coils will melt at 170F. In addition, solder does not have a discrete melting point. It is a colloidal mixture of metal and may begin to soften, even at 170F. Because it is not a true re-flow, it is only going to produce cold- solder joint failures throughout the PC board. Another problem with water, especially tap - is those minerals are going to coat the carbon surface of pots, and coat the contact point in slide switches and pots. It will be DARN HARD to get out once it is in there. He had a spray can of de-oxit, so he knows better. For high end repairs, I disassemble each and every pot and switch and carefully clean and re-lubricate. As he observed, bad switches can make or break a unit. Power washing with TAP water and then BAKING minerals inside the switches is the exact opposite of what you want to do. The water will also get in between power components and heat sinks, lessening the effectiveness of heatsink compound. It will also get into that power transformer and cause rust. Soaking is a last resort - I only do it in cases of prolonged submersion in a lake, or any exposure to salt water - although I do not guarantee restoration to units submerged in salt water for over a week, or in fresh water lakes for over a month. I have had to start turning away Ft. Myers Beach and Sanibel customers because two months in salt water is too long. I also turn away smoker units, because the chemical damage to delicate IF and RF transformers is usually too severe to repair. A far as the particle board case - if you get those things wet they will swell and end any possibility of using it. As he probably discovered. Real wood cases will warp, but re-submerging and putting each piece in a 100 ton press can straighten them. But it takes bleaching and re-staining to restore wood cases that have been wet. Not an easy or short process. This guy may get by on sheer luck, but I guarantee he has introduced a host of problems into the vintage receivers. I have seen units "repaired" by guys like him come across my bench. I end up spending 2 or 3 times the labor reversing their mistakes, and having to charge my customers. With the advice - next time bring it to me first, NOT an amateur, because you are going to have to pay a lot more to reverse the damage caused by inexperienced amateurs.
Even the VU meters? Damn, you really took no prisoners with that power wash. The oven sequence was grate? Great. Oh no, I guess you found out anodized aluminum does not do well in the dishwasher.
So I did something very much like this with my Vintage analog synthesizers years ago. I washed them in the tub with the shower head. What did help get a lot of the built up grime on the boards was spraying Simple Green on the boards first and let them sit for 5 min then spray them off. It always worked for me and they looked as good as new.
When iron rusts, it expands. This is why rusted metal bursts through paint. The expansion of the iron oxide can cut into the paper insulation inside the transformer and short- circuit it.
@@Poppinwheeeeellllllieeeeez perhaps the next owner who buys this amplifier under the belief it has been "restored" when it stops working due to a rusted out and not readily available transformer needs replacing LOL. Remember his his standard mode of operation is to replace all the capacitors and most of the semiconductors (even though there is probably nothing wrong with them) in the name of "getting another 30 years life out of it" LOL. It's obvious to the trained eye that the high pressure water washing technique isn't good for the longevity of the amplifier. If it was so great and good for the longer term life of the amplifier every restorer of electronic equipment would do it - right?
I use aluminum wheel cleaner spray to clean the parts that are aluminum., specifically Eagle brand. It has never caused a problem and is gentle enough to not damage any of the designator lettering.
I read from a technician at Tektronix that the first thing they did when test equipment was sent to them for repair was a power wash followed by a blow out and two days in an oven set to 130 degrees.
Wonderful, i just wished i had to courage to do this, but you have made me feel i want to learn electronics and have some fun. So thanks"! Best regards Chris in the UK
Putting it in the oven concerned me more than the high pressure water blast, cant that water work its way up into the caps, and possibly cause problems to electrolyte properties inside ?
I wonder if this would have been feasible actually if you would've followed up with a distilled water final soak on the board and would've done something different with the face. Not a perfect method, but this stuff is so hard to clean. 👍
@@dougbaker9473 yes I have and clearly "any" constitutes at least this one - LOL. In fact I've viewed most of them except his car restorations of which I have no interest in. Most of his repairs / restorations involve blanket replacements of semiconductors (some for no reason whatsoever), like perfectly good power supply diodes which weren't faulty but he managed to butcher the PCB in the process. :( When asked (by myself and others) why he replaced perfectly good diodes his rationale was "they might fail". LOL. If there is any likelihood of future failure it's more than likely going to be due to his less than skilful repair efforts. I'm confident the design engineers at Marantz and Pioneer knew what they were doing 40 years ago.
@@alanrutlidge4767 when restoring anything that is 40 plus years old , if it can be replaced replace it . Other wise is a waste of money for the restoration . Same goes for a vintage car when restoring it . If your not gonna do a proper restoration do do it .
@@alanrutlidge4767 I found a guy who does work on these and any thing that can be replaced is being replaced as per my instructions so when I get it back it will be better than new and last another 40 plus years with no problems .
that was real scary to watch you jet washing it but as you say its satire the face plate should come back the amount of salt in the pobs is unreal so as you say has left a coating on it. Its the same as you alloy wheels in the winter with road salt try a furniture polish with not very much pressure apply'd when i cleaned the face plate and knobs on my sx550 i think i just used washing up liquid first with warm water as hot will release the glue that holds the knob covers onto the plastic inners. window spray will sometimes work and some time it will remove the text on the face plate. my sx550 has just been taken for repair and the chap has a ultra sonic cleaner and puts the boards in that he does have a u-tube channel also i was really surprised the unit came on after what you done to it even the lamps worked cant wait for the next instalment
the drive?🤔 hmmm. great edit on the intro. I've done that before when I went through my component harvesting days. the oven is a crucial step. I just would be scared of power washing mdf. I guess as long as you can dry it before moisture seeps in it would be ok.
Dude.......maybe I might be attending to the "weird white film" on everything you put in your dishwasher ?? I mean YOU are eating that "white film" every time you use a PLATE, FORK, SPOON, etc. and WHAT you might be ingesting ??? Interesting Video !!
Yeah, but what about all the toxic vapours released when he "bakes" his amplifiers in the same oven he or his partner is using to cook their food in? This practice is not only stupid it's also potentially dangerous to a person's health. I wonder if he does the same with his car parts? LOL
@@alanrutlidge4767 that was common practice in 30's - 50's. (Although, albeit not as to dry it after Power washing it) but You only get it hot enough to aid in evaporating any residual moisture. Lol my wife would murder me if I put a set of heads in ours.
Baby wipes. Ripple for you and ripple for me. Yeah yeah ripple. In the end its just an amp. I just put the knobs in dawn and iso in an ultrasonic. Dawn and water the faceplate followed by mothers polish.
These videos are so much fun. I must say from where you started on TH-cam you have come a long way. Very creative, entertaining and often educational. I was trying to find the sold listing in ebay for your last unit. Just curious how the items were listed and how much you had to pay. I don't often see components listed on ebay in as rough a shape and it seems particularly for Marantz that even non-working for parts /repair seem to go for too much $ IMO.
@@janicehopkins4432 honest informative critique from experienced techs is beneficial to to the viewers. What he's doing is IME of no value whatsoever in informing would be "techs". Seriously, speaking from 40+ years experience in the industry working on everything from domestic hi-fi gear to the aerospace industry (yep we don't want planes falling out of the sky), power washing a piece of electronics at the carwash then baking it in the oven you cook your food in is no doubt entertainment for some, but not good for the longevity or safe operation of the equipment. It might work satisfactorily for a while but the likelihood of failure is high. Sadly some viewers are actually going to be stupid enough to try this and potentially with disastrous results. :( It's a stunt for TH-cam views. Bring back the dislike button and the make the count viewable to all.
This always happens when you put un anodized aluminum in a dishwasher. It’s a reaction with the detergent. The protective aluminum oxide coating on anodized aluminum prevents detergent from getting to the aluminum metal below.
Good to know!
Maybe try some jetdry rinse aid?? ;)
I use an ultrasonic cleaner for the knobs and faceplate. Works great.
You can't use anything caustic (basic) on aluminum. Dishwasher soap is extremely basic. So is oven cleaner, and general "kitchen de greasers". All very bad for aluminum. If you washed it with hot water and hand dishwashing detergent (like dawn or palmolive, etc) with a soft dishcloth, you'd have nearly perfect results.
@@Roscoeverdin5469
Hi what type of fluit are you using withe the ultrasonic ??
Thanks!
So happy you provided the tender loving care this unit deserved. Your artist side was well represented in this episode as well, totally enjoyed it!
I like how this one turned into a neo-noir film about half way through.
I like the acting and the sense of drama in this one.
It was epic : D He has a flair for the edit, he should do it more often, certain his channel would see the positive effect!
I have literally just bought an SX-750 yesterday. I love receivers, not just the sound quality but also how they look. Being on a limited budget I have to save fairly hard but the Pioneer joins an elite group of receivers I will never sell. I can see the merits of power washing, every electrical item on the PCBs should be completely sealed with maybe the relay being the exception but what really has my toes curling is the time spent in the oven afterwards. I worry the meters will melt, maybe the circuit boards will warp, it's frightening so hats off to you for having the courage to do it.
As I've been repairing audio gear since before you were born, (and since you clearly asked in the title of your video), maybe I can help. To clean a nasty aluminum faceplate without removing the lettering or corroding it (that white stuff you found on the faceplate is aluminum oxide, the faceplate is ruined), take the faceplate off just as you did and clean it and the knobs with generous amounts of Simple Green and a microfiber cloth. You may need two or three cloths. I like to actually soak the knobs in the simple green in a bowl for a few minutes. This will even remove decades of cigarette smoke without damage. You still need to avoid rubbing too hard on the lettering, as it's just silk-screened on and then coated in clear-coat, and DO NOT use anything but a cloth to rub the faceplate. Windex works for the glass, of course. You'll need cotton swabs for the detail work. I get the ones from Amazon with pointed tips.
And they're called car washes because they're NOT stereo washes. If I did that to one of the pieces of gear I work on for a living, I'd never get another client again. To clean the innards of a nasty stereo, you'll need to invest in some CRC electronic cleaner and a couple of 2" paint brushes. For an entire unit you may need two or three cans of the cleaner. Wash the innards down with the cleaner and use the brushes to wash the grime away. Do this in a well-ventilated area. The cleaner evaporates in seconds, so work on one section at a time. For a unit that's really dirty, you'll have to take the thing apart to get to everything. This is work and expense you can't get out of if you want the results without doing damage.
Yes, I know you've done the power wash thing without apparent damage both on this and on a Marantz. The operative here is APPARENT. Problems may well make themselves evident days, weeks, or months later because you didn't get all the water out that you put in to things like the power transformer, RF and IF transformers, the tuning capacitor, the speaker relay, switches, etc.
It's OK to power wash circuit boards that have only sealed components and whose traces are entirely sealed with conformal coating, like modern-day computer motherboards. But not this stuff. And not entire units.
Oh, and I started out by saying that I had been doing this since before you were born. If you're more than 45 years old, I stand corrected, and retract that statement. 🙂
Scott GR… He’s not doing it for a living plus he said it was for satire. I would send my stuff to you before I had him work on it but come on, it’s fun to watch. I’m sure if he wanted to he could do all the things you mentioned but his views would drop. He’s a uTube’er you are a professional stereo repair tech. Gotta admit tho it is amusing? By the way thanks for the simple green tip.
@@bubbleone6526 He said that this time but I don't think he said it wouldn't he power-washed a Marantz receiver in another video. I'll have to look. And I am happy to see a younger person doing this kind of work. We old guys are a dying breed and there's very few of us left working on units from this era. I just don't want to see gear like this damaged during repair attempts, I don't want to see people get hurt by unsafe practices, and I hope he will take my advice to heart.
Simple Green is a lifesaver for removing tar from cigarettes!
@@ScottGrammer Thanks for the reply. Yeah it’s hard to find a good repair person let along a bad one now days. I have a Harmon Kardon Citation 16 that need a good going thru and here in Washington it almost impossible to find anyone.
Mark Walker (blueglowelectronics) who I consider an expert doesn't recommend this power washing. As for the CRC cleaner I seldom use it you need to be outdoors in the open air.
Who cares
On my dusty 750, I removed the back and removed a lot of dust from around the components.after getting the big stuff, there was still a greasy coating on the boards ( May have been a smoker around it years before) . I got a full can of CRC electronic cleaner, turned the chassis on its side and washed from top to bottom with heavy flow of CRC liquid. The dirt flowed offf, without any moisture to short or corrode components. The unit plays cooler now and the Crc cleaned the boards and components with visible dirt running off the low side. I did this on both sides. That all you really need to do to. the inside.I LET IT DRY for several hours before powering up. i also cleaned the controls with CRC, followed by De Oxit. The unit works like New now.
Wires will wick water and eventually corrode later.
At 3:30 your "Apocolypse Now," moment was intense : D
Usually white flaky residue on aluminum is corrosion, which is exactly what that looks like. I'm wondering if the high heat of the dishwasher took off the clear coat on the faceplate and it corroded during the drying. If you get it all off and looking good without damaging the lettering I'd hit it with a couple of coats of clear before you put it all back together.
I think you're right I just recently Cleaned up a Yamaha receiver and it did kind of the same thing
Sure makes me wonder. I clean radios all the time, usually tube boat anchors, but I've never put anything in the dishwasher. My wife would kill me if I did.🤣🤣🤣
@@AmishSpecialForces i know!.. I would do it when she's gone but I need her help to turn the dang thing on!
@@Blowncaraudio Oh I know how to use it, but anything other than dishes would be a death sentence😵
spot on ASF, clear coat went bye-bye, and face plate oxidized.
AH, did you bake or broil the Pioneer soufflé? Too bad about the coating on the faceplate. You’ve got your work cut out for you with this unit. Can’t wait to see it restored. Amazing it still works at all after power washing it.
Bake! I think the faceplate will clean up just fine
@@AHFixIt maybe try convection oven!
For the oxidized aluminum face plate and knobs: try using some cream of tartar mixed with a little water to form a paste and use that to gently clean off the white residue.
hello i also sprayed and dried my tuner with the high pressure and everything is ok thanks
This video is Emmy winning stuff! Love the kitchen scenes the best. Still learning when I listen to AH-fix-it
This is pretty much a list of things NOT to do!!!! And he paid the price with losing the protective layer over his anodized front panel. I am a professional restorer of high end equipment for high end customers. I would like to propose the following alternative techniques to what he did, and I think I know something about the topic because I have done hundreds of these throughout 4 decades, and almost never had a failure. First of all, I always start with Q-tips and distilled water - the same technique used for restoring fine artwork because it is GENTLE and EFFECTIVE. You would be surprised just how many contaminants love to come off. The reason is simple - high concentrations of chemicals naturally want to move to lower concentrations. So they love to combine with water. I think that would have done a much more effective cleaning than what he did. It would not have attacked the protective coating on his front panel and knobs. I cringe when I see power washers and air compressors used on equipment. First of all because the equipment is DELICATE. Pressure of any type can bend tuning capacitor plates, resulting in the need to straighten them and do a full instrument alignment. I do not see any equipment here that could do an instrument alignment, so his receiver IS (not may be - IS) in need of a full instrument alignment. The second reason I cringe is the chemical makeup of tap water. Especially in a car wash, which can legally use reclaimed sewer water not safe to drink. He not only put minerals from the tap water all over his receiver, but he also baked them onto every surface. Water, contaminated or not, likes to wick into small places. Every single one of the IF transformers, and variable capacitors such as those on or near the tuning cap are now full of water, and a back at 170 degrees for an hour and a half is nowhere near sufficient to get it out. I do soaks, too, but in DISTILLED water - pH neutral - and SOAK, not pressure wash. I am continually surprised at how long it takes to dry out. I NEVER bake, because plastic formulations in many capacitors, and in many RF coils will melt at 170F. In addition, solder does not have a discrete melting point. It is a colloidal mixture of metal and may begin to soften, even at 170F. Because it is not a true re-flow, it is only going to produce cold- solder joint failures throughout the PC board. Another problem with water, especially tap - is those minerals are going to coat the carbon surface of pots, and coat the contact point in slide switches and pots. It will be DARN HARD to get out once it is in there. He had a spray can of de-oxit, so he knows better. For high end repairs, I disassemble each and every pot and switch and carefully clean and re-lubricate. As he observed, bad switches can make or break a unit. Power washing with TAP water and then BAKING minerals inside the switches is the exact opposite of what you want to do. The water will also get in between power components and heat sinks, lessening the effectiveness of heatsink compound. It will also get into that power transformer and cause rust. Soaking is a last resort - I only do it in cases of prolonged submersion in a lake, or any exposure to salt water - although I do not guarantee restoration to units submerged in salt water for over a week, or in fresh water lakes for over a month. I have had to start turning away Ft. Myers Beach and Sanibel customers because two months in salt water is too long. I also turn away smoker units, because the chemical damage to delicate IF and RF transformers is usually too severe to repair. A far as the particle board case - if you get those things wet they will swell and end any possibility of using it. As he probably discovered. Real wood cases will warp, but re-submerging and putting each piece in a 100 ton press can straighten them. But it takes bleaching and re-staining to restore wood cases that have been wet. Not an easy or short process. This guy may get by on sheer luck, but I guarantee he has introduced a host of problems into the vintage receivers. I have seen units "repaired" by guys like him come across my bench. I end up spending 2 or 3 times the labor reversing their mistakes, and having to charge my customers. With the advice - next time bring it to me first, NOT an amateur, because you are going to have to pay a lot more to reverse the damage caused by inexperienced amateurs.
Even the VU meters? Damn, you really took no prisoners with that power wash. The oven sequence was grate? Great. Oh no, I guess you found out anodized aluminum does not do well in the dishwasher.
Genuine imitation simulated walnut wood grain vinyl veneer. We saw tons of that stuff back in the day.
So I did something very much like this with my Vintage analog synthesizers years ago. I washed them in the tub with the shower head. What did help get a lot of the built up grime on the boards was spraying Simple Green on the boards first and let them sit for 5 min then spray them off. It always worked for me and they looked as good as new.
I have heard that water can get into the plates on the transformer and start to rust. Drying in the oven may help prevent that.
When iron rusts, it expands. This is why rusted metal bursts through paint. The expansion of the iron oxide can cut into the paper insulation inside the transformer and short- circuit it.
Who cares
@@Poppinwheeeeellllllieeeeez perhaps the next owner who buys this amplifier under the belief it has been "restored" when it stops working due to a rusted out and not readily available transformer needs replacing LOL. Remember his his standard mode of operation is to replace all the capacitors and most of the semiconductors (even though there is probably nothing wrong with them) in the name of "getting another 30 years life out of it" LOL. It's obvious to the trained eye that the high pressure water washing technique isn't good for the longevity of the amplifier. If it was so great and good for the longer term life of the amplifier every restorer of electronic equipment would do it - right?
@@alanrutlidge4767 but really...who cares
@@Poppinwheeeeellllllieeeeez If the caps are paper and water seeps in, they may swell and/or change capacitance.
Enjoyed watching it is a Big understatement!!! Well done Sir.
I always get a kick out of you taking these receivers to the car wash and power washing them. Then the shake-n-bake. 😂lol
I use aluminum wheel cleaner spray to clean the parts that are aluminum., specifically Eagle brand. It has never caused a problem and is gentle enough to not damage any of the designator lettering.
No follow-up video of the completion?
I read from a technician at Tektronix that the first thing they did when test equipment was sent to them for repair was a power wash followed by a blow out and two days in an oven set to 130 degrees.
Link please.
I saw the previous vid where you got this. I'm still intrigued: What are those stains on the faceplate? Chocolate? Blood?
XD that poor wooden chassis lol
If I have to clean a dirty board I will use 100% isopropyl alcohol and a 1-in wide horsehair paintbrush.
Wonderful, i just wished i had to courage to do this, but you have made me feel i want to learn electronics and have some fun. So thanks"! Best regards Chris in the UK
_... and bake in a moderate oven for 25 minutes! Hmm, that's nice!"_ Always great vid BTW :)
One really must see video .
Amp baking Montage was great
Putting it in the oven concerned me more than the high pressure water blast, cant that water work its way up into the caps, and possibly cause problems to electrolyte properties inside ?
I suspect you left the heating element on in your dishwasher which BAKED on the soap residue.
You are going to become in expert in ampwasher , bakingamp , partswasher. I like the whole idea!
the coating is alkalai..from phosphates
emeril....gotta luv this
LOL! Used to use a dishwasher to try to resusitate boxes of old, junky computer keyboards. It worked most of the time, too.
I wonder if this would have been feasible actually if you would've followed up with a distilled water final soak on the board and would've done something different with the face. Not a perfect method, but this stuff is so hard to clean. 👍
On a side note, have never seen so many quarter car wash's at 1 location, no roll-up doors here in Ca.
Gotta admit, I almost wet myself when you turned that car wash wand on the receiver chassis...
AND you drive a 240??? Lol we’re very similar
You’re very unconventional but you get results. I can’t wait for the next video. Always great content that puts a big ole smile on my ugly mug. 👍
Now all we need are thumbnails featuring your surprised or shocked face
I thought only turkey that goes on the oven,Now a days even vintage stereos can be serve for thanksgiving Hahahhahha 😂
Got the mix and baking a Marantz.
Do you take repairs from people that they would send to you ?? I have an SX-1080 indeed of repair .
if you value your equipment send it to any one of the professional audio restorers that know what they are doing.
@@alanrutlidge4767 what makes you think he doesn't know what he is doing ? Have you watched any of his videos ?
@@dougbaker9473 yes I have and clearly "any" constitutes at least this one - LOL. In fact I've viewed most of them except his car restorations of which I have no interest in. Most of his repairs / restorations involve blanket replacements of semiconductors (some for no reason whatsoever), like perfectly good power supply diodes which weren't faulty but he managed to butcher the PCB in the process. :( When asked (by myself and others) why he replaced perfectly good diodes his rationale was "they might fail". LOL. If there is any likelihood of future failure it's more than likely going to be due to his less than skilful repair efforts. I'm confident the design engineers at Marantz and Pioneer knew what they were doing 40 years ago.
@@alanrutlidge4767 when restoring anything that is 40 plus years old , if it can be replaced replace it . Other wise is a waste of money for the restoration . Same goes for a vintage car when restoring it . If your not gonna do a proper restoration do do it .
@@alanrutlidge4767 I found a guy who does work on these and any thing that can be replaced is being replaced as per my instructions so when I get it back it will be better than new and last another 40 plus years with no problems .
Who knew that restoring an amp required so many kitchen appliances????
Any progress on learning tuning alignments?
I got a frequency counter the other week, still need to confirm it's accurate. Then I can confirm what my SG165 is doing
that was real scary to watch you jet washing it but as you say its satire the face plate should come back
the amount of salt in the pobs is unreal so as you say has left a coating on it. Its the same as you alloy wheels in the winter with road salt try a furniture polish with not very much pressure apply'd when i cleaned the face plate and knobs on my sx550 i think i just used washing up liquid first with warm water as hot will release the glue that holds the knob covers onto the plastic inners. window spray will sometimes work and some time it will remove the text on the face plate.
my sx550 has just been taken for repair and the chap has a ultra sonic cleaner and puts the boards in that
he does have a u-tube channel also
i was really surprised the unit came on after what you done to it even the lamps worked
cant wait for the next instalment
You should have used the spot free rinse on it. 😅
Was wondering if the car wash pressure wash was a joke, think there may be better ways to clean it, as the guy below notes. entertaining I guess?
1:30 That'll never work again! Or possibly it will?......
the drive?🤔 hmmm. great edit on the intro. I've done that before when I went through my component harvesting days. the oven is a crucial step. I just would be scared of power washing mdf. I guess as long as you can dry it before moisture seeps in it would be ok.
As I recall, my SX-770 had real wood, but I can't be certain.
Dude.......maybe I might be attending to the "weird white film" on everything you put in your dishwasher ?? I mean YOU are eating that "white film" every time you use a PLATE, FORK, SPOON, etc. and WHAT you might be ingesting ??? Interesting Video !!
only if the utensils are anodized aluminum i think.
Yeah, but what about all the toxic vapours released when he "bakes" his amplifiers in the same oven he or his partner is using to cook their food in? This practice is not only stupid it's also potentially dangerous to a person's health. I wonder if he does the same with his car parts? LOL
@@alanrutlidge4767 that was common practice in 30's - 50's. (Although, albeit not as to dry it after Power washing it) but You only get it hot enough to aid in evaporating any residual moisture. Lol my wife would murder me if I put a set of heads in ours.
@@alanrutlidge4767 most ovens are ventilated. If not, open the door next time u preheat.
If u do not put aluminum in dishwasher, u should be fine.
I can't believe how incredibly tolerant your sister is about you using the stove for electronics
Yer mom letting u use the computer this late? I do not think it is his sister.
I don't know how I missed this video unti now. It had me rolling on the floor!
sounds like my AM station LOL
Why 170 why not 140 With more time
this is kool...
Ah........
No.
Was this your 420 repair job 🤔😁💨🌿🌬😎
warning don't mix water and electricity
Dishwashing liquid is very corrosive! It will oxidize aluminum immediately!
use jewelers Rouge and microfibres...gently...to clean up the face...I use it on aluminum aaaaawl the time...
Mothers or auto sol is gentler and bring out a higher residue free shine
Bet you were a riot in the car as a kid.
Never!!!😢
Baby wipes. Ripple for you and ripple for me. Yeah yeah ripple. In the end its just an amp. I just put the knobs in dawn and iso in an ultrasonic. Dawn and water the faceplate followed by mothers polish.
These videos are so much fun. I must say from where you started on TH-cam you have come a long way. Very creative, entertaining and often educational. I was trying to find the sold listing in ebay for your last unit. Just curious how the items were listed and how much you had to pay. I don't often see components listed on ebay in as rough a shape and it seems particularly for Marantz that even non-working for parts /repair seem to go for too much $ IMO.
I heard Mark Levin. 😆
Might do us some good, mark is sensible.
Let's cook!
You really talk yo much, But it was a fantastic video 👍
😳😳😳😳😳😳
I watched both videos and there was nothing at all about fault finding, repairing, and restoration of the unit therefore I render it useless
Not sure if this is a joke? Thumbs down.
I agree. TH-cam please bring back the visible dislike count.
Some of us learn more when we are entertained. Be nice.
@@janicehopkins4432 honest informative critique from experienced techs is beneficial to to the viewers. What he's doing is IME of no value whatsoever in informing would be "techs". Seriously, speaking from 40+ years experience in the industry working on everything from domestic hi-fi gear to the aerospace industry (yep we don't want planes falling out of the sky), power washing a piece of electronics at the carwash then baking it in the oven you cook your food in is no doubt entertainment for some, but not good for the longevity or safe operation of the equipment. It might work satisfactorily for a while but the likelihood of failure is high. Sadly some viewers are actually going to be stupid enough to try this and potentially with disastrous results. :( It's a stunt for TH-cam views. Bring back the dislike button and the make the count viewable to all.
LOL Mark Levin on the radio.