That is a beautiful sewing frame. I appreciate the detail you put in to it. Things need to be functional but they can still be works of art. Well done! I’m truly impressed.
Dear Enchanted: Nicely done! This is a magnificant item, very practical but gorgeous to look at. You can get a lifetime's use out of this, and pass it on to the next generation. It can last 100 years. If I may be so bold as to make a few comments.... 1) you borrowed your dad's tools. ROCK ON! Criminy, every time somebody tells me they need their own woodshop before they can start, my eyes spin like dice in their sockets. I spend $5 a day to use a local community woodshop. I can't spend a day watching a movie for that price. 2) walnut. Wow. Yours probably looks 10 times better. I used oak, but mine cost $2. Check if there's a lumber mill in town; mine were "drop offs" pulled from a scrap bin. Oak still looks nice, and is really tough. 3) you use a lock nut, washer, second washer, brass nut, wing nut, washer, second washer, second wing nut. Yep, that works. But is about twice the hardware you need. Especially if you are like me, disassembling the frame to take to shows. I use nothing under the table, add nuts to the bottom of uprights, slide the 2 uprights in place, put two bolts toward the top, and drop the yoke in place. All loose and wobbly, right? When I put twine through keys and tie at the top, then use the nuts to put pressure on, it locks up tighter than a drum. 4 nuts, maybe 4 washers. 4) if you take only 1 thing away from my ramble, learn how to use a tap and die to make wood threaded rods and nuts. Yes, videos on TH-cam make it look easy. But IT IS JUST THAT SIMPLE. Steel threaded rod and hex nuts aren't cheap, and wing nuts are ridiculously expensive. Spend money once on a tap and die for wood, and you can make a sewing frame that's a dead ringer for one used 200 years ago. For less money in materials.
If anyone does not have a router or saber saw but does have a table saw, the slots are easy to make if you have clamps and glue. 1) make first cut off large bar off the large board (table) and small piece at the top (yoke). Measurements aren't precise, let's take a full inch bar off the table. The yoke should be more than 2 inches wide, try to cut it in half. 2) cut a thin strip off the table, 3/8ths will do. 3) cut 4 pieces off the strip. I cut mine 2 3/4 inches each. 4) sandwich 2 thin strips between the 2 pieces of yoke on the ends, and between the table and 1 inch bar. 5) optional. If you are like me, you will want to tidy everything up the next day with a hand plane or power planer. 6) sand and finish.
Beautiful!! Love the materials list but do you remember the width of the key slot? I didn't hear the size mentioned in the video. Thank you so very much!!!!!!
When you put the gold foil on the base, what kind of paper did you print the design on? Was it regular tracing paper? I am trying to put gold foil on leather book covers with custom designs. Thank you.
You use it while sewing signatures together to bind books, specifically using tapes or cords. I show this process in my "binding an old looking bookblock" video, but using a laundry rack as I didn't have the sewing frame at the time. I plan to do some bookbinding after I'm done with my Halloween projects this year and will film myself using it then
That is a beautiful sewing frame. I appreciate the detail you put in to it. Things need to be functional but they can still be works of art. Well done! I’m truly impressed.
Thank you so much! That's exactly what I was hoping to achieve with this project
That's really cool. Thanks for sharing.
Dear Enchanted:
Nicely done! This is a magnificant item, very practical but gorgeous to look at. You can get a lifetime's use out of this, and pass it on to the next generation. It can last 100 years. If I may be so bold as to make a few comments....
1) you borrowed your dad's tools. ROCK ON! Criminy, every time somebody tells me they need their own woodshop before they can start, my eyes spin like dice in their sockets. I spend $5 a day to use a local community woodshop. I can't spend a day watching a movie for that price.
2) walnut. Wow. Yours probably looks 10 times better. I used oak, but mine cost $2. Check if there's a lumber mill in town; mine were "drop offs" pulled from a scrap bin. Oak still looks nice, and is really tough.
3) you use a lock nut, washer, second washer, brass nut, wing nut, washer, second washer, second wing nut. Yep, that works. But is about twice the hardware you need. Especially if you are like me, disassembling the frame to take to shows. I use nothing under the table, add nuts to the bottom of uprights, slide the 2 uprights in place, put two bolts toward the top, and drop the yoke in place. All loose and wobbly, right? When I put twine through keys and tie at the top, then use the nuts to put pressure on, it locks up tighter than a drum. 4 nuts, maybe 4 washers.
4) if you take only 1 thing away from my ramble, learn how to use a tap and die to make wood threaded rods and nuts. Yes, videos on TH-cam make it look easy. But IT IS JUST THAT SIMPLE. Steel threaded rod and hex nuts aren't cheap, and wing nuts are ridiculously expensive. Spend money once on a tap and die for wood, and you can make a sewing frame that's a dead ringer for one used 200 years ago. For less money in materials.
If anyone does not have a router or saber saw but does have a table saw, the slots are easy to make if you have clamps and glue.
1) make first cut off large bar off the large board (table) and small piece at the top (yoke). Measurements aren't precise, let's take a full inch bar off the table. The yoke should be more than 2 inches wide, try to cut it in half.
2) cut a thin strip off the table, 3/8ths will do.
3) cut 4 pieces off the strip. I cut mine 2 3/4 inches each.
4) sandwich 2 thin strips between the 2 pieces of yoke on the ends, and between the table and 1 inch bar.
5) optional. If you are like me, you will want to tidy everything up the next day with a hand plane or power planer.
6) sand and finish.
Beautiful! And I'm excited to see it in use 😊
Thank you! And same, I'm very excited
Lovely looking piece of work. May I please know what you are using for your keys beneath your slot? Thank you.
Sure, I bought brass sewing keys from Talas. I bought both the cord style and the tape style ones
Beautiful!! Love the materials list but do you remember the width of the key slot? I didn't hear the size mentioned in the video. Thank you so very much!!!!!!
A little less than 3/4", hope that helps!
but but now we need a demo video lolol
You'll get one! I have plans for an upcoming project that will use it 😊
YES!! Looking forward to it :)
When you put the gold foil on the base, what kind of paper did you print the design on? Was it regular tracing paper? I am trying to put gold foil on leather book covers with custom designs. Thank you.
Yep! Just regular printer paper
@@EnchantedForestArts Thank you for your reply. I have foil quill pen as well as wasn’t sure if it would work. I will be trying it out!
How wide is the slot?
Wide enough for twine to go through. It really is that simple.
It's about 3/4 inch, had to be able to fit the cord as well as the brass keys through
What do you do with it?.
You use it while sewing signatures together to bind books, specifically using tapes or cords. I show this process in my "binding an old looking bookblock" video, but using a laundry rack as I didn't have the sewing frame at the time. I plan to do some bookbinding after I'm done with my Halloween projects this year and will film myself using it then