65 barracuda,273,904,7.25. Beat the snot out of it for 2 years and finally broke the 7.25. So yes they can take some punishment. Granted all stock but being 16 you know as well as I the things you can invent to broil tires.😂
I have no doubt that you will become the #1 Mopar resource on TH-cam - your knowledge is very impressive. I found your channel looking for slant 6 info. Listening to an earlier video I heard you say that you'd gained a few hundred subscribers 'cause Uncle Tony mentioned you. You also pay it forward, I subscribe & regularly watch both Tony's & Rocket's channels because you mentioned them. I enjoy both - thanks for that.
Jamie, this video was more informative than any magazine article I’ve read over the past forty years. One day hopefully I will be the owner of a Duster.
You have so much knowledge! Now My Brain Hurts. I figured out the issue with my seventy three dodge power wagon. I bet you've never came across this issue? In 1980 something my dad put a radio in his truck and he put in a noise suppression thing from radioshack inline on the positive wire to the coil. We'll this thing took a dump & took 12.8 volts and reduced it to 10.4, (detective work). Removed it and it started. Plus a $150 battery. Now it starts up quickly. I enjoyed watching your Ignition videos again. Truck sounds really good, nice low rumble. Dual exhaust.
If you have a sticky throttle/choke/ etc. cable: pull it out, coil it up enough to fit in a pan of ATF. I keep my USED ATF just to clean parts. All of the used fasteners and brackets just get thrown in a bucket of used ATF to soak for a good while. The better looking stuff gets filtered through old sweatshirts for cleaning things like cables. It's also good for soaking used pistons in to clean them or un-stick rings. Let it soak, pull it out, pull it in and out a few times and it'll work unless it's physically damaged or SEVERELY rusted. PERSONALLY, I clean them up on the outside with a wire brush or "eye poker 3000" wheel. For the inside cable/sheath I hang it up THEM rinse the inside out with brake cleaner and compressed air while working it in and out. Throw it back in the ATF, (or lube it up with oil) wipe it down lightly and put it back to use. If you have a big loop, like in this application, it'll work smooth as silk!!! I run type F in my 727s. It seems to me that it cleans better that Dex./Merc. So I save and filer it fir my "seriuos" cleaning.
This is by far the most comprehensive swap walk through I've seen. Even though... 20:55 Im shocked you didn't mention the 598436 different lengths and slots of the kickdown arm and shift link bar. The history of how the 225 came to be is quite entertaining. I have the privilege of being one of the people to have witnessed the old black and white interview/documentary with the original engineers of the 170... the inspiration for the 225. Chrysler took a masterpiece of engineering for the time (and the next 50 years) and said "make it 30% more"... the engineers said "Too heavy, too much rotating mass, it will ruin the balance, harmonics, efficiency! No!" Obviously the powers that be didn't listen. Point is we ended up with a 525-600 pound cast iron behemoth. If a guy uses anything aluminum in their V8 swap it will far underweigh the 225 by a large margin. For example a pair of aluminum heads for a big block weigh less than a single cast iron head.
I did the easy (but more expensive) swap - I swapped a wad of cash for a 340 Swinger. Everything just bolted right up, but my wallet needed some major modification. Anyway, this was a great and very thorough how-to video, and who knows, I might end up doing something like this some day.
Good on ya for mentioning torsion bars. I did a 360 swap on a 72 Swinger about 20 year ago. Ran great, but drove like crap after the swap- Nothing like the nice driver it was before. Eventually ended up selling the car, but now thinking back on it, i believe that still using all the slant 6 suspension components was the reason it drove so poorly. I've been working on a 76 Scamp the last few years and did a bunch of suspension upgrades such as tubular control arms, boxed lowers, big torsion bars, hellwig sway bar, etc, and the improvement in handling was amazing. I do think that if I'd done that stuff to the old 72, it would have ended up a nice car. On the current 76, after the suspension upgrades, i toyed with swapping to either a small or big block, but eventually ended up building the Slant last winter with all sorts of expensive goodies from aussiespeed, dutra, gill welding, tti, sniper, torqstorm, etc... Its now running and driving spectacularly... not quite 100% where i want it to be, but probably 85% there... I do look forward to the turbo slant series you keep hinting about...
This is one of your BEST instructional videos ever. Not that any previous videos are bad, this one is just so perfectly complete in all the details and will save fellow, somewhat less knowledgeable Mopar enthusiasts TONS of time figuring things out. I understand that technical videos may not reach the same "popularity" as "fun" ones, but I believe it is the backbone of your channel and sorely needed in Moparland. This video is for the folks who like to turn wrenches, and I'm glad you acknowledge us as an important fan base of yours. You are WELL on your way to Global Domination with this video.
You’re absolutely right! That’s why I keep making these. It’ll serve as a resource for years to come, and people will keep coming back to see it. That almost helps the channel more than the fun and exciting videos. Thank you! Can’t wait 😅
Nice overview of the SL6 to V8 swap. I've done this swap in my '67 dart. Would have been nice to have this video back then, but I can tell you that his information is spot on.
8:44 this is how I managed my 68 swap with a slant k frame. Engine sits perfectly in the stock location. Driver side has a car bracket and the passenger side has a truck bracket. People do sell kits for this style as well but they are a lot of money for what is essentially a stock truck part. The brackets do not bolt up to the ears on the block in the traditional manner to help compensate for the offset in the slant k frame.
I can confirm, those 7.25" axles we live a lot longer than the internet claims they will behind a v8, as long as the car can't make any decent traction.
Wow! All this well presented information on all things Mopar! I am now going to have to step up my search for a suitable subject car. So many choices, so little time. ( But I am leaning towards B bodies. )
They’re a great platform. Can’t recommend them enough. But finding one that no one else is after can be challenging these days, and they generally aren’t cheap… good luck!
My that is a sweet green 77 D100 pickup at 1 minute 30 seconds. I bet that owner is gonna enjoy that sweet green crapple machine. He must have excellent taste too. 😆. Awesome video dude. Always a good time watching anything you put up for us
You're a rare breed. Not only can you do this stuff, but you also teach very well. Thanks for the info. Because of you I've taken on a 5.2l v8 magnum swap in my 97 dakota that has a 2.5l. Trans was tricky, but i think i have what i need to marry the old ax15 to the 318.
Awesome! Sounds like a party. Yes, I’m very lucky to have all of these skills in my toolkit. It seems as though I am perfectly suited to this endeavor, which is a great feeling.
I did that swap in the 90's to my beautiful Golden Butterscotch 71 Dart slant 6 3 speed that I paid 100 dollars for . Put the engine from my 72 green Dart that was rusted apart . God I miss that Car. So option one was in the green car.
WOW. I'm impressed. I have a '74 Swinger so I can follow along directly. I'm impressed on the accuracy and thoroughness of this swap video. Every time I thought of a detail, you brought it up right after I thought of it. The only thing I can think of is the 73-76 Slant 6 A-bodies have small bolt pattern and a lot, but not all, 73-76 V8 a-bodies have 5 on 4.5. When doing a disc brake upgrade, most kits are 5x4.5. This can create two different wheel sizes front and back unless you swap out the axles to match. 100% score on this video. Phenomenal job.
Absolutely. I thought I at least hinted at the bolt pattern change, but that may have hit the cutting room floor. I cut about ten minutes out of this video in goofy takes and superfluous language to try and make it concise. I was reminded in the comments also that ‘76 A-bodies were finally all disk brakes. Thanks!
Great content, as usual. I will keep watching. I fix cars, but I'm not a mopar cult member, so from the outside looking in, ... Okay, You're basically building a car here. The Alex/ Dennis Taylor Savoy was also a v8 swap.
I commend your intention of being the most complete conveyor of all things mopar mechanical, and look forward to whatever comes up.👍 By the way , there are a few Australian suppliers of slant 6 to v8 engine mounts, Hemi Performance, Elco etc , probably more expensive than what you can source in America though.
Awww! You super briefly discussed an M body! NEAT. Also, you're really showcasing them super long "even cowgirls get the blues" ass thumbs in this episode 😂
Jamie, we’ve spoken quite a few times I do want to say thank you very much for your videos. I like your attitude I like how you do your videos despite what other people may say it’s what makes you you and one day I would like to meet you in person, at least to be able to shake your hand
I swapped out a 318 for a 225 in a 71 Dart back in the 80's. I used a front end from a wrecked 340 Duster. Lesson learned... Never use a wrecked donor car for suspension parts. The car was never quite right.
I have future plans with this on my 72 demon. Right now I just have a rusty slant 6 auto car, a bare block 340, an a body 8-3/4, a set of sway bars, and plans for a 6spd from a 5.7 challenger (rumor has it the bolt pattern largely matches the old small blocks). In other words, "I will watch your career with great interest"
@@DeadDodgeGarage yeah I was originally had a shop where I was gonna work on it but I lost access to that space. She sits in storage until I can find a new space
Nailed it, as usual. I can't think of anything significant you missed. I haven't commented in a long time, but I've been a subscriber forever, and I gotta tell you, you're killing it. (The first video I watched was the Magnum swap video, when it was new). Keep at it, you'll be at 100k subs before you know it.
Damn dude... I appreciate this so much. So much useful information here. Saved this video for later use since I'm sure to need it at some point. Thank you Jamie for taking the time to make this video for us.
This one is GRRR-8!! Thanks Jamie, I know this took a lot of effort. Better to do it now than later in life when your memory is not as fresh! Now if you could figure out a way for us (ME!) to buy a Mopar "Muscle Car" from you for under 10 grand. The less rust the better of course.
Way back when the magnum engine came out I put a 369 engine in my buddy's 73 dart. There wasn't any oil pan available at that time. I took the 360 pan and cut the sump off and seal welded the bottom of his pan on it. Been doing Mopar restorations for many years now. Worked for Chrysler from 69 to 2014.
To this day, there still isn’t a Magnum specific pan that utilizes the Magnum gasket. Meanwhile, the LA 360 pan with LA 360 pan gasket literally bolts right on. 🙂
@@DeadDodgeGaragehey hey hey hey.... you're giving away secrets.... I'll take a slant 6 charger!!!....... I could get it at a good price and won't have to sacrifice my first born to elks in the field behind your shop for a charger🤫
Brother!! Knowledge is good!! very good¡ I don't own a Mopar!! Im a Chevy guy well because im poor lol i learn different things from your channel 👍🏻💯🏁🤘🏻
Bought a 67 dart 270 that now has a 69 340 drivetrain, hood with callouts and interior with console. Watched many of your vids and i am sure i will see them all. Gotta go through wiring, find some stock exhaust manifolds or Dougs headers, manual steering and brakes, 11" front upgrade done but now its big bolt pattern front and small bolt pattern 8.75 rear, so axle swap and bigger rear brakes soon i guess, otherwise, which spare tire assembly do i carry lol. Thanks for sharing your Mopar knowledge.
i feel the need to make it known that the last champion aluminum radiator i purchased only lasted 4 years before it started puking coolant out of multiple spots where the cross tubes mount to the tank, i ended up replacing it with a $200 all aluminum ebay radiator that actually has better looking welds than the champion radiator, i did use the champion radiator cap because it was obviously better than the chinese cap, it's been over 2 years and the ebay holding up fine so far, i have no doubt it will make it past the 4 years the champion lasted.....
Hee. Donor car made this conversion so much easier, manual trans included. :) (Then again my donor car would probably cost six grand or more these days. :) ) (Anyway I was happy enough with some JC Whitney long-tube headers that I kinda wanted to eventually eplace with whatever nicer thing they were copying. I think the steering column had to go between some of the tubes but all in all that coulda been worse. It wasn't for very very high horsepower (Came with some kindof maybe Isky cam in there) but the stock manifolds in donor car were broken and the headers were cheaper.) I'm probably forgetting a number of details but I had like months to take care of those while waitiing for my friend with the engine hoist, so I tended to things like the floorboards for the shifter and interior stuff (JC WHitney to the rescue with just the carpet I wante to fit that trans tunnel, ) and wiring and brakes in that time, mostly I think without much incident. Mostly could mix and match with the donor car, a few details aside, did initially use the slant radiator with an auxiliary add on initially till I could afford better, (Just stuck that on the heater lines but not in the cabin for the hot months, bypassed that in cold ones,) .... I don't know what else was remarkable really, ...ran dual cats and turbo mufflers of some description for exhaust, so the noise was non-excessive but a bit mean the way I like it, ....heh, my Da happened to drop by when I was trying to get the longer header installed and waiting for more lifting again but Da said, 'Considered just digging a hole?' So we did that. Old school, eh?
@@DeadDodgeGarage (Look kindly on me, my donor car was from a junkyard meet after being raced and rusted and defaced with why was there a tall scoop on there anyway) and I had hair like Siouxsie Sioux and who loved A-bodies then. :) )
Great video! Lots of good information, I’m still working on my 66 barracuda it idles high and it dies when the choke opens up or when I hit the throttle. I’m not sure if this is a timing issue or carburetor, it’s a edelbrock carb. I’m using my same distributor from my 273
All 1976 A-bodies came with disc brake, including the 6-cylinders, to meet federal safety standards. Before 1976, disc brakes weren't common with 6-cylinders. 1976 was also the last year for A-body cars. pre-1971 B-body rear axles have spring perches which are only an inch farther apart than 67-76 A-bodies. That's a half inch on each side. The leaf springs can be forced in a half on each side, or the perch holes can elongated a half inch towards the center. The B-body axles are wider and work best on Demons, Dusters and Dart Sports, where the rear tires have some outside clearance. Reversed wheels are not need on desired with the B-body axle conversion, as they might be using an A-body axle, with little inside tire clearance.
Hello Jamie. This video helped me a lot already I am swapping the /6 of my 64 valiant to a 318. I want to keep the manual A745 3-on-the-tree setup when possible. Do you know if there is a bellhousing that fits between a 318 and a745 and inside an early a-body? Thanks for you info and time! I am in Europe and resource to try and test-fit are limited over here.
Jamie brother what a great informative video since you want questions here we go engine mounts for poly swap into my 58 savoy itx got the flat 6 in it or do I just make new pedalstalls for the la mounts that fit the poly keep up the good work brother
I recently watched your 1000 subscriber video. Very nice story. Now your almost to 38,000. Any plans on another work garage etc? Did u buy the place or possibly looking for something else. You sure look right at home there.
Good info. I personally will never need to know any of this but I do find it interesting. I would never buy a slant six car for any reason. And did I see the front of that beige duster being supported by jenga blocks ? ...Also please replace the broken drivers side mirror on your car hauler.
Dude, I can’t find the right type of mirror head… I’ve looked. When I finally swap the doors and front end I’m planning to go to a more classic “west coast” type mirror anyway. No, the car is on jack stands.
Here is an idea, a bad one, so I thought this would be a good place to share. Has anyone ever spliced 2 slant 6s together to make an OHV v12? I mean either you or Coldwarmotors in Canada are the only folks insane, I mean creative enough to try.... just a thought....
Yes - 67-72 and 73-76 were different setups, and not standard unless it was a special package car like Formula S or a 340, to name a couple. 73-76 actually goes through the center of the K-frame, while the earlier bar bolts into the front of the K. There may have been an early A front sway bar but I’ve never seen such a thing.
Shorty headers are a waste of time, according to dyno testing. In my book, it’s manifolds for stockish street or long tubes for go fast purposes. The regular LA manifolds (and headers) bolt onto the Magnum, no problem there. That comment was included because Magnum manifolds are well known to flow better than the older style LA pieces, and are much easier to find. People will try to put them in A-bodies. I wanted to make sure to explain that it doesn’t work - at least with power steering.
Those manifolds for the 66V8 A body cars are some strange looking manifolds at least for the 273 4 barrel with the 4 speed manual transmission,mine looked like square tube cast iron and they had a long manifold on the driver side that went down and under the rear of the engine and hooked up with the passenger side and went out the back on the passenger side in a large single pipe looked like it was 2 1/2-3 inch, don't know if it was that way for all the 273 cars or something different for the high compression four barrel 273 with the solid lifter cam
@@DeadDodgeGarage maybe not but it sure looked about that big, I never actually measured it but the car was all factory and it came with the high performance 273 no air or heater, manual brakes and tranny a sure grip rear end but it did have all the GT chrome trim and the exhaust manifolds met up on the passenger side and dumped into a large single exhaust with a muffler that didn't quiet it very much, it was like it was set up for bracket racing,wish I still had it, probably a special order with the way it was set up even the leaf springs were a little stiffer than other 66 Darts but I was stupid and left the title in the car and stored it at a so called friends place and it came up missing along with a lot of other parts like an extra set of heads and miscellaneous other stuff for other Mopars ,if i still had the title I could find out more about it with the VIN number but I do remember that the car came from the factory that way by the equipment tag under the hood on the fender well, with my luck it's some rare optioned car worth a lot of money as it was originally from Texas and almost no rust and an almost perfect grill and body, just rebuilt engine (it was all in pieces and the block was all machined) another friend helped put it together and installed it in the car, it was white and the interior had light blue accents with a lot of chrome really nice car, almost don't want to know what it was worth if you know what i mean
I've wanted to do this for a long time, and in looking at the /6 K-frame and the HEMI K. They look remarkably similar for engine mounts. Let's do it 572 in a 72 Dart.
If I wanted to add a front sway bar to my 67 b body, do I need specific lower control arms or do they provide the lower control arm connections that have to be welded to existing lower control arms?
Depending on which company’s bar kit you go for, there will either be weld-on tabs or bolt-on tabs included. Hellwig bars come with the bolt-on pieces. The bolt on-tabs go to the lower shock mounting bolt, and while the end links tend to end up at a funky angle, we have used these many times with success. I believe a factory bar for your ‘67 would be a clamp-on style, meaning the end links attach to the strut rods with a rubber isolator. That setup is kind of goofy. Some other years used the lower control arm with the end link tab. Off the top of my head, I’m not entirely sure which years used them. But if you’re going to buy an aftermarket kit anyway, it’s a moot point.
Hi i found you a couple days ago and have enjoyed and learned a few things I would not have considered. I was wondering do you have anything on doing a LS swap? I have a 1964 Valiant wagon. I have a 6L with an 4L80E. Thank you in advance.
They have the big block stuff. They didn’t have the small block stuff when we tried to order it. Maybe they had brackets but not pulleys? I don’t remember. But we ended up getting all used stuff.
On a factory 340 a body, or a 360 car with a 727 do they use the big black bell housing bolt pattern or was there a special 727 with a small block bolt pattern?
Small block 727 and big block 727 are two different things. In fact, it gets even more complicated than that internally, as there were many different versions of at least the big block 727. Big and small block transmissions are the same length and physically very similar, so they can be hard to immediately tell apart. Fun fact, there was a slant six 727 used in trucks too!
65 barracuda,273,904,7.25. Beat the snot out of it for 2 years and finally broke the 7.25. So yes they can take some punishment. Granted all stock but being 16 you know as well as I the things you can invent to broil tires.😂
I broke mine in 3 months doing a burnout with a stock 318 4 barrel and headers, do not break one with an automatic you will roll the Sprague
I have no doubt that you will become the #1 Mopar resource on TH-cam - your knowledge is very impressive. I found your channel looking for slant 6 info. Listening to an earlier video I heard you say that you'd gained a few hundred subscribers 'cause Uncle Tony mentioned you. You also pay it forward, I subscribe & regularly watch both Tony's & Rocket's channels because you mentioned them. I enjoy both - thanks for that.
You bet - and thank you!
I totally agree!!!!!!
Jamie, this video was more informative than any magazine article I’ve read over the past forty years. One day hopefully I will be the owner of a Duster.
You have so much knowledge! Now My Brain Hurts. I figured out the issue with my seventy three dodge power wagon. I bet you've never came across this issue? In 1980 something my dad put a radio in his truck and he put in a noise suppression thing from radioshack inline on the positive wire to the coil. We'll this thing took a dump & took 12.8 volts and reduced it to 10.4, (detective work). Removed it and it started. Plus a $150 battery. Now it starts up quickly. I enjoyed watching your Ignition videos again. Truck sounds really good, nice low rumble. Dual exhaust.
Oh dang! No, that’s a new one for me. I know of two instances of a failing tach doing the same thing though. Nice work there.
Thanks for the very complete description of the slant to V8 swap.
If you have a sticky throttle/choke/ etc. cable: pull it out, coil it up enough to fit in a pan of ATF. I keep my USED ATF just to clean parts. All of the used fasteners and brackets just get thrown in a bucket of used ATF to soak for a good while.
The better looking stuff gets filtered through old sweatshirts for cleaning things like cables.
It's also good for soaking used pistons in to clean them or un-stick rings.
Let it soak, pull it out, pull it in and out a few times and it'll work unless it's physically damaged or SEVERELY rusted.
PERSONALLY, I clean them up on the outside with a wire brush or "eye poker 3000" wheel.
For the inside cable/sheath I hang it up THEM rinse the inside out with brake cleaner and compressed air while working it in and out.
Throw it back in the ATF, (or lube it up with oil) wipe it down lightly and put it back to use.
If you have a big loop, like in this application, it'll work smooth as silk!!!
I run type F in my 727s. It seems to me that it cleans better that Dex./Merc. So I save and filer it fir my "seriuos" cleaning.
This is by far the most comprehensive swap walk through I've seen. Even though... 20:55 Im shocked you didn't mention the 598436 different lengths and slots of the kickdown arm and shift link bar.
The history of how the 225 came to be is quite entertaining. I have the privilege of being one of the people to have witnessed the old black and white interview/documentary with the original engineers of the 170... the inspiration for the 225. Chrysler took a masterpiece of engineering for the time (and the next 50 years) and said "make it 30% more"... the engineers said "Too heavy, too much rotating mass, it will ruin the balance, harmonics, efficiency! No!" Obviously the powers that be didn't listen. Point is we ended up with a 525-600 pound cast iron behemoth. If a guy uses anything aluminum in their V8 swap it will far underweigh the 225 by a large margin. For example a pair of aluminum heads for a big block weigh less than a single cast iron head.
Of course this had to come out after I learned everything the hard way! Now I have 2 big block A bodies, many lessons learned.
I did the easy (but more expensive) swap - I swapped a wad of cash for a 340 Swinger. Everything just bolted right up, but my wallet needed some major modification.
Anyway, this was a great and very thorough how-to video, and who knows, I might end up doing something like this some day.
I’d like to do that too… some day…
A video for the archives for sure. People will be watching this for the next 50 years
Good on ya for mentioning torsion bars. I did a 360 swap on a 72 Swinger about 20 year ago. Ran great, but drove like crap after the swap- Nothing like the nice driver it was before. Eventually ended up selling the car, but now thinking back on it, i believe that still using all the slant 6 suspension components was the reason it drove so poorly.
I've been working on a 76 Scamp the last few years and did a bunch of suspension upgrades such as tubular control arms, boxed lowers, big torsion bars, hellwig sway bar, etc, and the improvement in handling was amazing. I do think that if I'd done that stuff to the old 72, it would have ended up a nice car.
On the current 76, after the suspension upgrades, i toyed with swapping to either a small or big block, but eventually ended up building the Slant last winter with all sorts of expensive goodies from aussiespeed, dutra, gill welding, tti, sniper, torqstorm, etc... Its now running and driving spectacularly... not quite 100% where i want it to be, but probably 85% there... I do look forward to the turbo slant series you keep hinting about...
Outstanding! I’ve finally started the turbo build, and more actual progress on that is coming soon!
Looking forward to the complete series on this car. Good information.
This is one of your BEST instructional videos ever. Not that any previous videos are bad, this one is just so perfectly complete in all the details and will save fellow, somewhat less knowledgeable Mopar enthusiasts TONS of time figuring things out. I understand that technical videos may not reach the same "popularity" as "fun" ones, but I believe it is the backbone of your channel and sorely needed in Moparland. This video is for the folks who like to turn wrenches, and I'm glad you acknowledge us as an important fan base of yours. You are WELL on your way to Global Domination with this video.
You’re absolutely right! That’s why I keep making these. It’ll serve as a resource for years to come, and people will keep coming back to see it. That almost helps the channel more than the fun and exciting videos. Thank you! Can’t wait 😅
Nice overview of the SL6 to V8 swap. I've done this swap in my '67 dart. Would have been nice to have this video back then, but I can tell you that his information is spot on.
8:44 this is how I managed my 68 swap with a slant k frame. Engine sits perfectly in the stock location. Driver side has a car bracket and the passenger side has a truck bracket. People do sell kits for this style as well but they are a lot of money for what is essentially a stock truck part. The brackets do not bolt up to the ears on the block in the traditional manner to help compensate for the offset in the slant k frame.
I can confirm, those 7.25" axles we live a lot longer than the internet claims they will behind a v8, as long as the car can't make any decent traction.
Bingo!
Wow! All this well presented information on all things Mopar! I am now going to have to step up my search for a suitable subject car.
So many choices, so little time. ( But I am leaning towards B bodies. )
They’re a great platform. Can’t recommend them enough. But finding one that no one else is after can be challenging these days, and they generally aren’t cheap… good luck!
My that is a sweet green 77 D100 pickup at 1 minute 30 seconds. I bet that owner is gonna enjoy that sweet green crapple machine. He must have excellent taste too. 😆. Awesome video dude. Always a good time watching anything you put up for us
You're a rare breed. Not only can you do this stuff, but you also teach very well. Thanks for the info. Because of you I've taken on a 5.2l v8 magnum swap in my 97 dakota that has a 2.5l. Trans was tricky, but i think i have what i need to marry the old ax15 to the 318.
Awesome! Sounds like a party. Yes, I’m very lucky to have all of these skills in my toolkit. It seems as though I am perfectly suited to this endeavor, which is a great feeling.
I’m glad that Schumacher is alive and well. A lot of good companies have gone away in the past ten or fifteen years.
This is my favorite channel as far as info on Mopars. Lots of great stuff and looking forward to seeing more!
Thank you!
Jaime thanks for doing this write up! Knowledge is power and sharing that knowledge is why TH-cam exists.👍😎
So that's where that hoard of oil filters I was missing went! 😂
😅
I came here for this comment and feel and explanation is in order. what is the deal with all those filters??
I did that swap in the 90's to my beautiful Golden Butterscotch 71 Dart slant 6 3 speed that I paid 100 dollars for . Put the engine from my 72 green Dart that was rusted apart . God I miss that Car. So option one was in the green car.
You are so good at teaching and explaining things! By far my favorite channel for Mopar stuff. And engine rebuild stuff in general. Thanks!
WOW. I'm impressed. I have a '74 Swinger so I can follow along directly. I'm impressed on the accuracy and thoroughness of this swap video. Every time I thought of a detail, you brought it up right after I thought of it. The only thing I can think of is the 73-76 Slant 6 A-bodies have small bolt pattern and a lot, but not all, 73-76 V8 a-bodies have 5 on 4.5. When doing a disc brake upgrade, most kits are 5x4.5. This can create two different wheel sizes front and back unless you swap out the axles to match. 100% score on this video. Phenomenal job.
Absolutely. I thought I at least hinted at the bolt pattern change, but that may have hit the cutting room floor. I cut about ten minutes out of this video in goofy takes and superfluous language to try and make it concise. I was reminded in the comments also that ‘76 A-bodies were finally all disk brakes. Thanks!
I'm excited to see this build. I would be interested in seeing how much abuse the 7 1/4 rear could take " for science".
Might see that in the turbo six build.
Oh… we’ll be seeing that soon. Haha.
Great content, as usual. I will keep watching. I fix cars, but I'm not a mopar cult member, so from the outside looking in, ... Okay, You're basically building a car here. The Alex/ Dennis Taylor Savoy was also a v8 swap.
I commend your intention of being the most complete conveyor of all things mopar mechanical, and look forward to whatever comes up.👍 By the way , there are a few Australian suppliers of slant 6 to v8 engine mounts, Hemi Performance, Elco etc , probably more expensive than what you can source in America though.
Awww! You super briefly discussed an M body! NEAT.
Also, you're really showcasing them super long "even cowgirls get the blues" ass thumbs in this episode 😂
Hey, they’re not *quite* that long 😅
I will probably never do this, mostly because I suck but i still very much enjoy watching you explain all of this.
Thanks for the information on the 904 and the 727 that was great lm on a learning curve and needed to know
I've used a lot of your videos for education and entertainment! Keeping a big 361 going strong!
Jamie, we’ve spoken quite a few times I do want to say thank you very much for your videos. I like your attitude I like how you do your videos despite what other people may say it’s what makes you you and one day I would like to meet you in person, at least to be able to shake your hand
Looks like you filmed some of this in my messy clutered garage thanks for info
Wow. Lots of great info here. Thank you so much.
Action packed. My brain hurts. Awesome!!
Another masterpiece brother 😊👏👏👏
I had a 1970 Dodge Challenger with a slant six in
high school in 1981
I was going to mention slant Challengers too but I didn’t want to take up too much time.
I swapped out a 318 for a 225 in a 71 Dart back in the 80's. I used a front end from a wrecked 340 Duster. Lesson learned... Never use a wrecked donor car for suspension parts. The car was never quite right.
I have future plans with this on my 72 demon. Right now I just have a rusty slant 6 auto car, a bare block 340, an a body 8-3/4, a set of sway bars, and plans for a 6spd from a 5.7 challenger (rumor has it the bolt pattern largely matches the old small blocks). In other words, "I will watch your career with great interest"
The bolt pattern *exactly* matches the old small block! Sounds awesome.
@@DeadDodgeGarage yeah I was originally had a shop where I was gonna work on it but I lost access to that space. She sits in storage until I can find a new space
Good swap guide Jaime
Nailed it, as usual. I can't think of anything significant you missed.
I haven't commented in a long time, but I've been a subscriber forever, and I gotta tell you, you're killing it. (The first video I watched was the Magnum swap video, when it was new). Keep at it, you'll be at 100k subs before you know it.
Thank you! I appreciate that!
I've had a few people tell me I should put a 318 in my Valiant but I like the stock aspect of it.
Good A-body content....thanks....🔧🔧👍
This should be good for 1 million views !!!!
Damn dude... I appreciate this so much. So much useful information here. Saved this video for later use since I'm sure to need it at some point. Thank you Jamie for taking the time to make this video for us.
You bet! Thanks!
This one is GRRR-8!! Thanks Jamie, I know this took a lot of effort. Better to do it now than later in life when your memory is not as fresh! Now if you could figure out a way for us (ME!) to buy a Mopar "Muscle Car" from you for under 10 grand. The less rust the better of course.
I don’t have many ideas on that 😅 thanks!
Way back when the magnum engine came out I put a 369 engine in my buddy's 73 dart. There wasn't any oil pan available at that time. I took the 360 pan and cut the sump off and seal welded the bottom of his pan on it. Been doing Mopar restorations for many years now. Worked for Chrysler from 69 to 2014.
To this day, there still isn’t a Magnum specific pan that utilizes the Magnum gasket. Meanwhile, the LA 360 pan with LA 360 pan gasket literally bolts right on. 🙂
@@DeadDodgeGaragehey hey hey hey.... you're giving away secrets.... I'll take a slant 6 charger!!!.......
I could get it at a good price and won't have to sacrifice my first born to elks in the field behind your shop for a charger🤫
Wow! That's a lot of information. Thanks for sharing.
Superb video thankyou.
Excellent video!
Great info now I just need to find a good A body I can afford...... 😀 I need to go back to the good old days when no one liked the Mopars.......
My 68 Notch-Back Barracuda was a 225 /6 originally.....now it a 495HP 392 stroker!!!!!
Brother!! Knowledge is good!! very good¡ I don't own a Mopar!! Im a Chevy guy well because im poor lol i learn different things from your channel 👍🏻💯🏁🤘🏻
Thanks for another great vid Jamie. I really do need to get a Mopar myself.
Very interesting 👍
Bought a 67 dart 270 that now has a 69 340 drivetrain, hood with callouts and interior with console. Watched many of your vids and i am sure i will see them all. Gotta go through wiring, find some stock exhaust manifolds or Dougs headers, manual steering and brakes, 11" front upgrade done but now its big bolt pattern front and small bolt pattern 8.75 rear, so axle swap and bigger rear brakes soon i guess, otherwise, which spare tire assembly do i carry lol. Thanks for sharing your Mopar knowledge.
Great video, the 68 charger and demon look great.
Great informative video 💯. Thanks 👍 Jamie ☺️
A lotta good info thanks Jamie!
there's some easy tricks to make a regular driver side manifold work. i can send somebody pictures or they can see it at Sunbust this weekend
Charcoal 66 Barracuda with red stripe. I'm there
i feel the need to make it known that the last champion aluminum radiator i purchased only lasted 4 years before it started puking coolant out of multiple spots where the cross tubes mount to the tank, i ended up replacing it with a $200 all aluminum ebay radiator that actually has better looking welds than the champion radiator, i did use the champion radiator cap because it was obviously better than the chinese cap, it's been over 2 years and the ebay holding up fine so far, i have no doubt it will make it past the 4 years the champion lasted.....
Personally, I don’t want to use any of them… I’m about to spend $800 having my original Demon radiator re-cored. The future sucks.
Check Tony's mopar parts for OE and NOS parts. I've used them several times. 👍
Awesome information!
Awesome. Thanks for the video.
Thank you Jamie
Well, I have to swap now! The 68 dart needs the 360 from the 66 fury.
Here we go! Haha.
I got the 360 in today
Hee. Donor car made this conversion so much easier, manual trans included. :) (Then again my donor car would probably cost six grand or more these days. :) )
(Anyway I was happy enough with some JC Whitney long-tube headers that I kinda wanted to eventually eplace with whatever nicer thing they were copying. I think the steering column had to go between some of the tubes but all in all that coulda been worse. It wasn't for very very high horsepower (Came with some kindof maybe Isky cam in there) but the stock manifolds in donor car were broken and the headers were cheaper.)
I'm probably forgetting a number of details but I had like months to take care of those while waitiing for my friend with the engine hoist, so I tended to things like the floorboards for the shifter and interior stuff (JC WHitney to the rescue with just the carpet I wante to fit that trans tunnel, ) and wiring and brakes in that time, mostly I think without much incident. Mostly could mix and match with the donor car, a few details aside, did initially use the slant radiator with an auxiliary add on initially till I could afford better, (Just stuck that on the heater lines but not in the cabin for the hot months, bypassed that in cold ones,) .... I don't know what else was remarkable really, ...ran dual cats and turbo mufflers of some description for exhaust, so the noise was non-excessive but a bit mean the way I like it, ....heh, my Da happened to drop by when I was trying to get the longer header installed and waiting for more lifting again but Da said, 'Considered just digging a hole?' So we did that. Old school, eh?
Yeah donor A-bodies pretty much don’t exist anymore. Haha.
@@DeadDodgeGarage (Look kindly on me, my donor car was from a junkyard meet after being raced and rusted and defaced with why was there a tall scoop on there anyway) and I had hair like Siouxsie Sioux and who loved A-bodies then. :) )
I'd be the sorta bloke that would swap the V8 for a slant
My people!
Great video! Lots of good information, I’m still working on my 66 barracuda it idles high and it dies when the choke opens up or when I hit the throttle. I’m not sure if this is a timing issue or carburetor, it’s a edelbrock carb. I’m using my same distributor from my 273
Late timing, or a good sized vacuum leak could do this. There are other possibilities.
Leaning Tower of Power
What are you saying?
@@daryllynhutchins8459 Was a nickname for the Slant 6s, maybe also the Buzzin Half Dozen
@@mikemiller3650 your not telling the world something they don't already know
All 1976 A-bodies came with disc brake, including the 6-cylinders, to meet federal safety standards. Before 1976, disc brakes weren't common with 6-cylinders. 1976 was also the last year for A-body cars. pre-1971 B-body rear axles have spring perches which are only an inch farther apart than 67-76 A-bodies. That's a half inch on each side. The leaf springs can be forced in a half on each side, or the perch holes can elongated a half inch towards the center. The B-body axles are wider and work best on Demons, Dusters and Dart Sports, where the rear tires have some outside clearance. Reversed wheels are not need on desired with the B-body axle conversion, as they might be using an A-body axle, with little inside tire clearance.
Yes, I’m aware of all that. That’s another video altogether… or several
DDG takes over the internet,
Film at 11
Hello Jamie. This video helped me a lot already
I am swapping the /6 of my 64 valiant to a 318. I want to keep the manual A745 3-on-the-tree setup when possible.
Do you know if there is a bellhousing that fits between a 318 and a745 and inside an early a-body?
Thanks for you info and time! I am in Europe and resource to try and test-fit are limited over here.
Jamie brother what a great informative video since you want questions here we go engine mounts for poly swap into my 58 savoy itx got the flat 6 in it or do I just make new pedalstalls for the la mounts that fit the poly keep up the good work brother
I’m sure a set of factory V8 mounts would solve it, but finding them… that would be the challenge.
No, I meant another garage for your cars or new chargers. To store/ work on/ etc.
Some day… but I’m a little short on capital.
I recently watched your 1000 subscriber video. Very nice story. Now your almost to 38,000. Any plans on another work garage etc? Did u buy the place or possibly looking for something else. You sure look right at home there.
I will not be opening another repair shop if that’s what you mean. Unless I have a ridiculous amount of disposable income to throw away some day.
An educational video I enjoyed greatly! Does this mean I'm becoming an adult after six decades? (I'm not sure I'm comfortable with that.)
I don’t think I’m qualified to confirm that. Haha.
Good info. I personally will never need to know any of this but I do find it interesting. I would never buy a slant six car for any reason. And did I see the front of that beige duster being supported by jenga blocks ? ...Also please replace the broken drivers side mirror on your car hauler.
Dude, I can’t find the right type of mirror head… I’ve looked. When I finally swap the doors and front end I’m planning to go to a more classic “west coast” type mirror anyway. No, the car is on jack stands.
Lol@@DeadDodgeGarage
Here is an idea, a bad one, so I thought this would be a good place to share. Has anyone ever spliced 2 slant 6s together to make an OHV v12? I mean either you or Coldwarmotors in Canada are the only folks insane, I mean creative enough to try.... just a thought....
Trust me, I’ve thought about this a lot… whether it has been done already or not, I can’t say.
No wonder I was never into dodge 😅 love the channel though, but I'll stick w bumpside/dentside trucks! Engine swaps are much easier lmaoooo
Yeah there’s no denying that. Even easier in Chevys I’m pretty sure…
Were front sway bars a thing on those cars? If so are they all the same?
Yes - 67-72 and 73-76 were different setups, and not standard unless it was a special package car like Formula S or a 340, to name a couple. 73-76 actually goes through the center of the K-frame, while the earlier bar bolts into the front of the K. There may have been an early A front sway bar but I’ve never seen such a thing.
Regarding the magnum headers retrofit question, maybe equal length tube magnum 'shorty' headers would provide the clearance needed?
Shorty headers are a waste of time, according to dyno testing. In my book, it’s manifolds for stockish street or long tubes for go fast purposes. The regular LA manifolds (and headers) bolt onto the Magnum, no problem there. That comment was included because Magnum manifolds are well known to flow better than the older style LA pieces, and are much easier to find. People will try to put them in A-bodies. I wanted to make sure to explain that it doesn’t work - at least with power steering.
Cool. I just got schooled by Dead Dodge Garage. 🙂
Class dismissed!
cool beans !
Those manifolds for the 66V8 A body cars are some strange looking manifolds at least for the 273 4 barrel with the 4 speed manual transmission,mine looked like square tube cast iron and they had a long manifold on the driver side that went down and under the rear of the engine and hooked up with the passenger side and went out the back on the passenger side in a large single pipe looked like it was 2 1/2-3 inch, don't know if it was that way for all the 273 cars or something different for the high compression four barrel 273 with the solid lifter cam
As far as I know, Chrysler never installed any exhaust pipes that large…
@@DeadDodgeGarage maybe not but it sure looked about that big, I never actually measured it but the car was all factory and it came with the high performance 273 no air or heater, manual brakes and tranny a sure grip rear end but it did have all the GT chrome trim and the exhaust manifolds met up on the passenger side and dumped into a large single exhaust with a muffler that didn't quiet it very much, it was like it was set up for bracket racing,wish I still had it, probably a special order with the way it was set up even the leaf springs were a little stiffer than other 66 Darts but I was stupid and left the title in the car and stored it at a so called friends place and it came up missing along with a lot of other parts like an extra set of heads and miscellaneous other stuff for other Mopars ,if i still had the title I could find out more about it with the VIN number but I do remember that the car came from the factory that way by the equipment tag under the hood on the fender well, with my luck it's some rare optioned car worth a lot of money as it was originally from Texas and almost no rust and an almost perfect grill and body, just rebuilt engine (it was all in pieces and the block was all machined) another friend helped put it together and installed it in the car, it was white and the interior had light blue accents with a lot of chrome really nice car, almost don't want to know what it was worth if you know what i mean
@@DeadDodgeGarage no power steering either
good info, now lets do a hemi A body swap lol
Some day 😅
I've wanted to do this for a long time, and in looking at the /6 K-frame and the HEMI K. They look remarkably similar for engine mounts. Let's do it 572 in a 72 Dart.
@@Amoparman408 I second it, I want to do a 68-69 SS Dart Clone
If I wanted to add a front sway bar to my 67 b body, do I need specific lower control arms or do they provide the lower control arm connections that have to be welded to existing lower control arms?
Depending on which company’s bar kit you go for, there will either be weld-on tabs or bolt-on tabs included. Hellwig bars come with the bolt-on pieces. The bolt on-tabs go to the lower shock mounting bolt, and while the end links tend to end up at a funky angle, we have used these many times with success. I believe a factory bar for your ‘67 would be a clamp-on style, meaning the end links attach to the strut rods with a rubber isolator. That setup is kind of goofy. Some other years used the lower control arm with the end link tab. Off the top of my head, I’m not entirely sure which years used them. But if you’re going to buy an aftermarket kit anyway, it’s a moot point.
Thats a lot of good info. Also a lot of editing. 😂
It always is… lol
In Canada, our C-bodies could get the 225. We define slow.
Hi i found you a couple days ago and have enjoyed and learned a few things I would not have considered. I was wondering do you have anything on doing a LS swap? I have a 1964 Valiant wagon. I have a 6L with an 4L80E. Thank you in advance.
No 😁 I won’t begrudge you your ideas, but that’s pretty far from my thing.
@@DeadDodgeGarage thank you. I didn't think so but had to shoot my shot.
Have you ever tried using a flexible line for tranny cooler lines with AN type fittings instead of the hard ones that just kink?
I have with rubber (not a great plan,) but incidentally I am about to do exactly as you say and build some out of AN for my turbo car.
I'm pretty sure you can get all the brackets from mancini racing
They have the big block stuff. They didn’t have the small block stuff when we tried to order it. Maybe they had brackets but not pulleys? I don’t remember. But we ended up getting all used stuff.
Have you had any trouble with the column shifter? My z bar seems to be to long.
Trying to think I’ve ever done that swap and kept a column shifter. I didn’t think they were different but I could be wrong.
Excellent video as usual, Jamie. Question - from whence did you fetch that disc brake kit?
- Ed on the Ridge (fibbibbo!)
That one came from Dr. Diff, as we were getting a lot of other stuff from them too. The one I’ve bought in the past came from Right Stuff Detailing.
🤘🏼⛽️🍻
I think I would choose doing a horrible crime & swap the skant 6 into v12 TDI' from vw touareg :D
I like where your head’s at 😅 some years back a Lemons team swapped one into a BMW. It was the stuff of legend.
On a factory 340 a body, or a 360 car with a 727 do they use the big black bell housing bolt pattern or was there a special 727 with a small block bolt pattern?
Small block 727 and big block 727 are two different things. In fact, it gets even more complicated than that internally, as there were many different versions of at least the big block 727. Big and small block transmissions are the same length and physically very similar, so they can be hard to immediately tell apart. Fun fact, there was a slant six 727 used in trucks too!
@@DeadDodgeGarage thank you Jamie
So basically it all drops right in and hooks up without any problems, ever?
I'm kidding :-)
You got it 😅