I have been binge watching your videos and you my friend do amazing work. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, time and energy with bringing this videos. 👍👍
Denver DIYer here love your videos and I agree an know how bad FPE Panels can be I rewired and replaced the panel at a home i was living in 20 years ago after one of the circuits failed and ate the washing machine
I just went to my electrical supplier for a 3/4 expansion coupling. They didn’t have one in stock, but I saw the cost for a 2 inch one. Those things are pricey!
I have a big project comming up replacing two fuse panels in a rental home. I have to install a panel upstairs and downstairs for each Tennant. Both fuse panels are in the basement now. I also have to install a double 100A meter can combo for outside. it’s going to be interesting and put my skills to the test! Watching you work gives me ideas for upcoming projects of mine. Keep up the great work!
Great job! So you chose the 100 amp disco as the 1st means of disco. Is that because that’s where your grounding electrode came to? The 4/0 SEC would be sufficient if both panels were 200 Amps? Your videos get more informative as you go. Good stuff. Thank You! Your students are lucky to have you.
The exterior disconnect is handy even if never used in an emergency. I have a seasonal property and I can shut it off for winter and know there's no energized conductors or boxes in the structure where critters or roof leaks could get at them.
The Yankees won and we made it to the big show ! I had a few cold ones watching all the games myself. That job was a little complicated. I own a 2 family duplex style house. Had the service drop and meter panels replaced 10 years ago. The new code with outside main disconnects makes that job more complicated but I can see the reasoning for it. My place has one main disconnect outside but only for one side. It was required years ago because the breaker panel is located about 25 feet from the service entrance and meter panel. The new code is good but makes mounting everything tougher.
Usually the utilty documentation supplies the requirements for the meter height. Not sure if thats the case in your area of NJ. . Hope it does not come back to bite you. Thanks for sharing your expertise with us . Have not done a residential service since the new supply disconnect requirement changes. Nice to see how others are handling it.
Good work Ron as per usual. Question, is it your preference to hook up the two supply up at the triplex as opposed to connecting them inside the cable tray since it would be alittle more cramped? or is it code?
Ron, Check out Arlington MM23 and Mm18, they are designed to go over top of the siding or they can go up before the siding goes up, might be cheaper than the Azek.
Expansion fittings in Jersey are for shrinkage, not expansion 🤣 I do data and the last guys often dont understand that if you put PVC up in the summer, its going to pull itself apart in the winter. Good vid.
If you do have these fpe or zinsco panels Connecticut electric makes modern day listed approved breakers however they are not cheap but may get you thru budget times
@@electricianron_New_Jersey 250.66 says 200 amp GEC has to be #4 cu, 250.64(C) says it has to be continuous, 250.64(B)(1) and (2) says it can't be exposed to physical damage
@@carryjurek51736 AWG and larger is permitted to be run exposed if not subject to physical damage, which it doesnt appear to be. That is ultimately up to the AHJ. The connections for the GEC for a service with multiple disconnecting means is not done correctly, however
@@carryjurek5173250.53(C) tells us the conductor to the first rod is a GEC and the conductor to the second rod (the supplemental electrode) can be a bonding jumper and not required to be continuous
Just did something similar for a duplex with a general electric screw in fuse panel upgraded to unipak meter stack with builtin disconnects feeding eaton CH main lug loadcenters Will be back soon to rewire most branch circuits and and add required sockets to code since the wiring isnt safe either
I know Delmarva power would refuse to put the meters in if they had to do it. Definitely too high 6'6 to the top of the bubble. I don't know why you just didn't move the meters down and put the disconnects on the concrete/cinder block.
Ron, sorry but I think you did the grounding electrode incorrect. It's a common mistake I see, you should have taken the number four from the water pipe into the 200 amp disconnect, then tap a #6 cooper into the 100 AMP disconnect, then do the same thing with the number six to the ground rods, One number six goes into the 200 amp disconnect, then tap off another 6# copper into the 100 amp disconnect. Split bolts are not permitted to be inside the disconnects, the idea if one service gets disconnected the other service still has the grounding electric system intact.
Yeah, 250.64(D) gives you some options, common location like in the meter socket if your utility allows it or a common GEC and taps. A busbar would have been a cleaner option too. Cant just use the neutral bars as a point to tap off of.
@@chrish7927 not true. They did know but food won’t spoil without power for eight hours, especially if no one’s opening the refrigerator door to have a look inside.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I'm not blaming you for it. I just hoped the landlord told them. USDA says anything left in fridge for more than 4 hours without power should get thrown out.
With the height the foundation was, the fact it's less likely to be physically damaged or tampered with, and most meters are read and controlled remotely today, I don't see a problem with it at all.
The problem is it is above the height that the average person can reach it they didn’t put the maximum height so you can say well it would have been harder.
In the end hopefully the inspector caught this. All the rules are in place for safety. If that needs to be worked on or a bypass while they have the meter replaced now they will have to do so from a ladder in which you are adding an in needed level of risk. I am trying to tell you that with those smart meters you still have to work on it when the electronics go bad.
West Virginia journeyman here, watched this over my morning coffee! Be safe and thanks for the videos! I enjoy them!
Your videos are priceless. Really nice to have the chance to see a pro electrician get the job done.
Wow lots of crowding in that limited space on the outside wall. I don’t envy you on this one. Very nicely handled.
Great job as always ron! Love the videos
Great video, as always, Ron!
Interesting combination - old Romex and Federal Pacific. Around here FedPac panels go with 1950's/1960's AC/BX
Excellent
I think the service disconnect is a no brainer for a myriad of reasons. Even if it isn't required. A great video once again.
I have been binge watching your videos and you my friend do amazing work. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, time and energy with bringing this videos. 👍👍
I'm glad you enjoy the videos. This is just what I do for a living.
Denver DIYer here love your videos and I agree an know how bad FPE Panels can be I rewired and replaced the panel at a home i was living in 20 years ago after one of the circuits failed and ate the washing machine
I just went to my electrical supplier for a 3/4 expansion coupling. They didn’t have one in stock, but I saw the cost for a 2 inch one. Those things are pricey!
I have a big project comming up replacing two fuse panels in a rental home. I have to install a panel upstairs and downstairs for each Tennant. Both fuse panels are in the basement now. I also have to install a double 100A meter can combo for outside. it’s going to be interesting and put my skills to the test! Watching you work gives me ideas for upcoming projects of mine. Keep up the great work!
Great job! So you chose the 100 amp disco as the 1st means of disco. Is that because that’s where your grounding electrode came to? The 4/0 SEC would be sufficient if both panels were 200 Amps? Your videos get more informative as you go. Good stuff. Thank You! Your students are lucky to have you.
The exterior disconnect is handy even if never used in an emergency. I have a seasonal property and I can shut it off for winter and know there's no energized conductors or boxes in the structure where critters or roof leaks could get at them.
Ron, once again great content. Thanks. Best regards from Chicago ..
Good work!
The Yankees won and we made it to the big show ! I had a few cold ones watching all the games myself. That job was a little complicated. I own a 2 family duplex style house. Had the service drop and meter panels replaced 10 years ago. The new code with outside main disconnects makes that job more complicated but I can see the reasoning for it. My place has one main disconnect outside but only for one side. It was required years ago because the breaker panel is located about 25 feet from the service entrance and meter panel. The new code is good but makes mounting everything tougher.
Clean work as usual Ron! Enjoying the vids from up here Ottawa, Ontario.
Usually the utilty documentation supplies the requirements for the meter height. Not sure if thats the case in your area of NJ. . Hope it does not come back to bite you. Thanks for sharing your expertise with us . Have not done a residential service since the new supply disconnect requirement changes. Nice to see how others are handling it.
As far as the meter base hieght i have had to pour a concrete pad for a few inches and a few times ive used pier blocks and made a deck/plateform
Heck yeah!! I just got myself the Milwaukee SDS plus. Makes all my concrete work a breeze now 😊
Nice work✅✅
Flat head screws are the devil, especially on old devices with 5 coats of paint in the slot
Nice job, as always. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
we are required to use armored cable for our grounds here, would be nice to make it look that much cleaner!
Great vid
In my town! Very cool.
@@atdjmackee I lived in Rahway for 16 years!
Nice work, Ron. Keep up the great content
Great job Ron.........
I cant believe that they allow u to mount the meters that high . 6 ft to center of meter max. But different jurisdiction .
After the first floor panel was energized, why the panel cover did not get installed?
Thats dedication! Subbed
Good work Ron as per usual. Question, is it your preference to hook up the two supply up at the triplex as opposed to connecting them inside the cable tray since it would be alittle more cramped? or is it code?
Ron, Check out Arlington MM23 and Mm18, they are designed to go over top of the siding or they can go up before the siding goes up, might be cheaper than the Azek.
Fantastic informative video.
Expansion fittings in Jersey are for shrinkage, not expansion 🤣 I do data and the last guys often dont understand that if you put PVC up in the summer, its going to pull itself apart in the winter. Good vid.
Still not required if it is only connected to an enclosure on one side like this.
Hi Ron. Why did you not replace the panel when you lived/owned the house? It probably was not your house or the owner was to broke to buy material 😅?
At the utility we call the plastic clips on the meter boots. We say oh the meter got booted
If you do have these fpe or zinsco panels Connecticut electric makes modern day listed approved breakers however they are not cheap but may get you thru budget times
Ground wire minimum size is #4 if without conduit and must be one continuous wire from rod to rod to terminal.
Show me a code reference because YOU ARE WRONG.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey 250.66 says 200 amp GEC has to be #4 cu, 250.64(C) says it has to be continuous, 250.64(B)(1) and (2) says it can't be exposed to physical damage
@@carryjurek51736 AWG and larger is permitted to be run exposed if not subject to physical damage, which it doesnt appear to be. That is ultimately up to the AHJ. The connections for the GEC for a service with multiple disconnecting means is not done correctly, however
@@carryjurek5173the conductor to the first rod is a GEC, the conductor to the second rod can be a bonding jumper and doesnt need to be continuous
@@carryjurek5173250.53(C) tells us the conductor to the first rod is a GEC and the conductor to the second rod (the supplemental electrode) can be a bonding jumper and not required to be continuous
Awesome work, and I love your videos!
P.S. : What screws do you use to mount the metal work boxes with brackets to a stud?
Guess im missing thought u technically have a 300 amp between the 2 meters . Thinkin 4/0 is not large enough. 250mcm
If I understand correctly,,, 4/0 feeder through 400 amps total connected? So you had 100 and 200 with a 4/0al feeder?
I see you do a lot of panel changes. Would you happened to have a GE THQD22200
No, I would never install GE trash.
Is that a galvanized ground rod?
What was the double fault 20 amp circuit for on the first floor panel? You mentioned it in the beginning of the video.
@@KenBRASHEAR Pretty sure it’s for the wall-mounted AC unit.
Old houses like these have a lot of multiwire branch circuits in them too
Just did something similar for a duplex with a general electric screw in fuse panel upgraded to unipak meter stack with builtin disconnects feeding eaton CH main lug loadcenters Will be back soon to rewire most branch circuits and and add required sockets to code since the wiring isnt safe either
I'm guessing you used discrete disconnects since unipak and other meter enclosure disconnect combos are unobtainium haha
How were you able to operate your PVC softener with the utility power disconnected?
@@TJMORGAN101 Magic.
It MUST have been plugged in at a neighbor's house.
I know Delmarva power would refuse to put the meters in if they had to do it. Definitely too high 6'6 to the top of the bubble. I don't know why you just didn't move the meters down and put the disconnects on the concrete/cinder block.
In Italy , connecting the ground to any water pipe was banned yeas ago.
Ron, sorry but I think you did the grounding electrode incorrect. It's a common mistake I see, you should have taken the number four from the water pipe into the 200 amp disconnect, then tap a #6 cooper into the 100 AMP disconnect, then do the same thing with the number six to the ground rods, One number six goes into the 200 amp disconnect, then tap off another 6# copper into the 100 amp disconnect. Split bolts are not permitted to be inside the disconnects, the idea if one service gets disconnected the other service still has the grounding electric system intact.
Yeah, 250.64(D) gives you some options, common location like in the meter socket if your utility allows it or a common GEC and taps. A busbar would have been a cleaner option too. Cant just use the neutral bars as a point to tap off of.
@@stillthakoolest Delmarva Power will not allow, its in there Electric Service Handbook
@@paulcoulston1987 yeah many jurisdictions dont allow it but it would be code compliant
Hopefully the upstairs apartment knew power was going to be cut before they went on vacation.😬 Lots of spoiled food otherwise.
@@chrish7927 not true. They did know but food won’t spoil without power for eight hours, especially if no one’s opening the refrigerator door to have a look inside.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I'm not blaming you for it. I just hoped the landlord told them. USDA says anything left in fridge for more than 4 hours without power should get thrown out.
That height is ridiculous we would make the customer move it down the disconnects could have been put on the sides
I would tell you to pound sand.
With the height the foundation was, the fact it's less likely to be physically damaged or tampered with, and most meters are read and controlled remotely today, I don't see a problem with it at all.
The problem is it is above the height that the average person can reach it they didn’t put the maximum height so you can say well it would have been harder.
As long as the handle for the highest breaker/disconnect is not higher than 6’-7” then should be ok.
In the end hopefully the inspector caught this. All the rules are in place for safety. If that needs to be worked on or a bypass while they have the meter replaced now they will have to do so from a ladder in which you are adding an in needed level of risk. I am trying to tell you that with those smart meters you still have to work on it when the electronics go bad.